The Cook Islands are best known for their pristine beaches and warm lagoons, the kinds of retreats that usually appeal to travellers in the South Pacific Ocean. Most visitors therefore end up on the two most popular and easily reachable islands, Rarotonga and Aitutaki. However, the Cook Islands have so much more to offer, especially the kinds of secrets that locals keep close to their chests – and that are a recipe for a truly local experience.

To try it, you must venture to the more secluded and uncommercialised islands, like Atiu and Mangaia, where you can experience the Pacific as it once was – like Hawaii 50 years ago or Tahiti 30 years ago.

Atiu

Atiu is home to an incredible abundance of exotic and rare birds, many easily visible almost everywhere you go. One particularly memorable species is the Kakerori, one of the 10 rarest birds in the world. It was close to extinction before a colony was introduced to Atiu. It now thrives – to the delight of tourists and locals alike.

Other Atiu attraction include a coffee plantation, one of the few left in the world where the beans are completely organically grown and still 100% sun-dried; the Anatakitaki and Vaitypuranga caves, where you can see the Kopeka bird in its natural environment; and the Fibre Arts Studio, where the Tivaevae (quilt) is made by local ladies (mamas) under the supervision of Andrea Eimke, a long time island resident. With advance notice, visitors can work with the mamas.

No visit to Atiu is complete without taking part in a Tumunu, at which is drunk an alcohol made from wild oranges. The once-secret and illicit practice of brewing it has emerged from the jungle (where it still occurs) and become a strong local tradition. Invitations can be arranged to join a local Tumunu gathering, an opportunity not to be missed.

The secret to getting to Atiu on a slim budget is to combine a flight to Atiu with a visit to Aitutaki so that it coincides with the once per week (on Wednesday) 35-minute direct Air Rarotonga flight in each direction. Not flying through Rarotonga will save you around NZ$200 (US$100) in airfares. If time is too short for this to be planned, consider taking a tour.

Mangaia

Mangaia is the second largest and southernmost of the Cook Islands. It is the oldest coral island in the world, thrust up out of the sea twice, over a million years ago. This left a fortress-like outer ring, known as the Makatea Cliffs, composed of the first ancient atoll’s original reef. It’s hard to believe that all those years ago the interior of the island was a lagoon, especially now with all the crops planted there.

Mangaia has some amazing underground attractions (like Tere’s cave or the Te-rua-rere cave) open to exploration with the help of a guide, who will no doubt talk about the local history as well. Some caves were used as burial sites, while others have massive stalactites and stalagmites. One cave goes right under one of the towns!

If staying above ground is more your cup of tea, try bike riding or four-wheel driving through the sparsely populated island’s breathtaking scenery. Hiking trails belong to anyone moving at a more leisurely pace to beautiful secluded beaches, where you can walk under the overhanging Makatea coastal cliffs and admire it from the outside.

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