Laidback in Namibia at the Erongo Wilderness Lodge

Rachael Harlech-Jones
14 August 2009

Rachael co-owns and operates Cardboard Box Travel Shop, a local travel operator in Namibia.

A panoramic view of Erongo's tent chalets nestled among the rocks coloured by darkening skies

Although I know some people love to cram every spare moment with activity, I often feel tourists come away from Namibia requiring another holiday to recover. There are, however, a few lodges that understand not all guests want to rise with the sun and be bundled into a 4×4 for a game drive. Erongo Wilderness Lodge is one such place – one of my favourites in Namibia – and the perfect end to any trip.

Situated just southwest of Omaruru in stunning mountain scenery, this intimate and friendly lodge strives to create the ideal balance between participation, personal freedom and a link to nature.

The accommodation is in 10 tented chalets scattered along a mountainside amongst large granite boulders that provide both privacy and a real connection to your surroundings. This is particularly true of the bathrooms, where the space is carved out around the rocks and is partially open-air, great for enjoying a steamy hot shower.

The tent chalets' interiors are simple but comfortable

However, this is not to say that comfort has been forgotten. Although basic, the rooms have fans, an electronic safe, minibar, mosquito netting on all the doors and windows and a range of biodegradable bathroom products. Each room also has a small private deck from which to enjoy the beautiful views – perfect for quietly soaking in the atmosphere, watching the dassies scamper over the rocks, catching sight of eagles soaring overhead or simply reading a book in the tranquillity of your own space.

Relaxed and Unobtrusive

One of the first things I noticed when I initially visited Erongo was the relaxed and unobtrusive service. As soon as you arrive, there is a more easygoing ambience – the paperwork is kept to a minimum, bags are quickly and quietly taken care of and you are not rushed into anything. As for the guiding, it has the same laidback yet professional feel. There is certainly an emphasis on guided walks, but at no point do guests ever get bamboozled into doing anything they are not keen on. If you fancy just sitting on the terrace with a drink, watching the birdbath attract colourful rosy-faced lovebirds, red-eyed bulbuls and black-throated canaries, or perhaps catching a few rays by the pool, then you are encouraged to do just that!

Wooden walkways lead across the grounds to the tent chalets in Namibia

Activities are not centred around big game, despite there being rhino and leopard in the area, but rather follow an ‘up-close-and-personal’ approach that allows people to better interact with their surroundings. To understand more of what you see, there is a good mix of both local, traditional knowledge and a more scientific understanding. This is in part helped by researchers, who are encouraged to stay at the lodge, providing valuable information regarding the local flora and fauna.

At Erongo, comfort wouldn’t be complete without the efforts of the kitchen team. In keeping with the general ethos, the cuisine is hearty, flavoursome and unpretentious. There’s also a small yet carefully picked selection of wines. A typical meal might consist of baked camembert with red-currant sauce, beef steak in brandy and cream sauce, all finished off with an appetising apple strudel and custard.

After the long and dusty drives, action-packed days and the very early morning starts sometimes typical of holidays in Namibia, the beauty and comfort of Erongo are a welcome change of pace, one I am sure you will also enjoy.

More Information

Best time to visit: April – May
Drive time from Windhoek: 3 hours
Distance from Windhoek: approximately 250km to the northwest
Best visited by car: There is a 2×4 parking area from which you are transferred to the lodge. Also 4×4 parking at the lodge.
Electricity: 220V from the national grid, so there are no generators