Although Laos is well known for its natural beauty, you have to see it to believe it. Actually, sometimes really seeing it – living it the way locals do rather than just passing through it – is the only way to believe it. After all, with the thick jungle that covers much of the landlocked nation sometimes making venturing off the beaten track a daunting prospect, if you’re going to lurch toward the little-known, you might as well live it as fully as possible. Thus it goes with the genuinely breathtaking experiences of two of Laos’ most popular and stunning waterfalls: Kuang Si and Tad Se, both located within easy reach of the northern city of Luang Prabang.

Imagine the scene: After a couple of hours of trekking through the jungle, you suddenly become aware of a noise. Then you break through the brush and you’re looking down on an incredible cascade of water plummeting into an inviting series of pools. It’s impossible to resist going for a dip in the idyllic turquoise water, usually the perfect tonic to a morning’s hard walking.

Kuang Si and Mrs Vandara

Kuang Si is the more accessible of the two falls, easily reached after 30 minutes from the centre of Luang Prabang via the ubiquitous tuk-tuks. While this proximity means Kuang Si is also slightly more crowded by day-trippers, anyone keen to spend more time in the area can participate in a homestay, one of the best ways to learn more about daily life in Laos.

For example, local resident Mrs Vandara opens her home to visitors looking to stay locally for one or more nights. You will be mesmerised by the water practically falling at your doorstep – her converted house is located on the river that flows away from the main cascade – but also jazzed by the occasion to explore the area by starlight long after the tour groups have slipped away for the night.

Lodging with the Vandara family also gives you the opportunity to help around the house, including as a hand in the kitchen, where you can learn the secrets of traditional Lao cooking, like pa daek (a type of fragrant fish paste) and khao neow (the staple sticky rice that accompanies most dishes) – and to take part in a weaving lesson, if you’re feeling particularly creative.

Of course, if you’re just looking for a place to soak away your travel aches, Kuang Si’s network of pools, flows and falls is the perfect place to splash away a day. Once you’ve had your fill of the sun, there are plenty of stalls at which to grab a drink before exploring the paths that crisscross the surrounding jungle. If you plan on climbing to the top of the falls you’ll need some proper footwear – it does get slippery.

Tad Se, Lao Spirit Lodge and Elephant Treks

If it’s the relaxation angle that really attracts you, consider the slightly more remote Tad Se falls. Its further remove from Luang Prabang – but still only 45 minutes by tuk-tuk – means you’ll get more out of the experience by putting aside a couple of days for the trip and overnighting at the nearby Lao Spirit Lodge, located right in the middle of the incredible Lao countryside.

Tad Se itself can be reached via boat – a journey that can be organised directly with the staff at the lodge – or, for a more novel approach, you can book an elephant ride along the river. It’s also a great way to get up close and personal with a pachyderm and to learn more about the mahouts that care for them.

The Tad Se falls, while no less spectacular than Kuang Si, feel particularly tranquil. The water forms a series of delightful swimming pools directing flows around a number of trees to provide a cool, shady canopy. Unlike other sites, Tad Se is primarily visited by independent travellers, meaning coach parties are practically unheard of. Both the falls and the lodge are great places to meet similarly minded people, but if you’re looking to get some quality solo time, you can always float into your own patch of paradise for a couple of hours.

Lee Sheridan and the rest of the crew at Teamworkz Consulting are the whl.travel local connection in Laos and will help you plan your visit by drawing on their local expertise.

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This entry was posted on Sunday, October 4th, 2009 at 5:22 am and is filed under the following categories: