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A Different Corfu: Special Moments (Part 2)

  • Chrysa Tsakalakou
  • 28 August 2010

This article is the second part in a series about the island. Read the first part here.

Life’s a Beach

When you travel to a Greek island, the first thing you sometimes want to know is the location of the ‘hottest’ beach. So here you go: for hot in Corfu, head to the endless sand of Glyfada beach or while away the hours playing beach tennis on Kontogialos. Kontogialos will steal your heart from the first warm days of summer, when the beach is still empty and the fog descends from the mountain to embrace you.

However, the beaches that really touch your soul are often those that manage to hide away somehow. I haven’t yet visited all of Corfu’s sandy strands, but I will always keep the following in my memory:

+ Sunday afternoon at the eastern end of Yaliskari beach. Reading a book while lying on the wide rocks, snatching moments just to gaze at the small bay.

Beautiful and pristine, Chomi is one of several beaches on the Greek island of Corfu that can only be reached by sea. Boat trips to these secluded shores can be organised from nearby beaches.

+ A boat trip to the hidden spots on Liapades beach. The amazing western stretches of Chomi and Marmara are accessible only by boat. Chomi, or ‘Paradise,’ is unbelievably impressive, settled in the lap of a humongous rock, its swimming water a block turquoise blue and a flock of hungry seagulls that arrive after 6pm for feeding. You can do the same at Yali, another small paradise of pebbles and water that the wind can’t touch. Yali is accessible either by sea or by a small path that begins in the village of Kanakades. A local guide is always useful.

+ Camping at Chalikounas beach. Located in the wild south, with a lake by the sea, this endless sandy beach comes with loud music, souvlaki and good company.

Agios Gordis. Few things are better than finding a bit of everything on a beach. Morning at Agios Gordis starts early, with the few surfers on the island taming the waves. Then, at midday the beach slowly gets busy. You let the sun caress your skin until, when you hear the first tunes of the day, you hit Alo Bar for a cold drink. It’s a perfect combination of music, people, fresh air and dreamlike sunsets that just melt into the sea.

+ Taking the green bus. It’s a simple process and you must do it at least once to feel like you are truly on holiday. Arrive at the bus station with a book in hand and choose a beach or village destination on the schedule. You don’t need to get a ticket before your departure, as there are still bus conductors here.

The hilltop restaurant of Elia looks out over the beach paradise of Mirtiotisa, a popular haunt with naturists. The restaurant is just as famous for its live music as it is for its excellent home-cooked local cuisine.

Party under the Olive Trees

The first holiday I took all by myself on Corfu led me to a restaurant called Elia on Mirtiotissa beach. When you are open to new challenges you can come across the nicest surprises, and, as I was there for a party, some friends took me to one of the darkest areas of west Corfu. We were making our way down a hill with only the stars to guide us when melodies came floating out of the night. After following the sound for some time, we finally reached a crowded wooden bar. The band and the revellers were swaying to the same rhythm as the olive trees that hang over the place and give the bar its name.

When the music is over at dawn, there are only two choices: either find your way back or descend a few more metres for a dive in Mirtiotissa, a divided beach that also embraces nudists.

Walking at Old Peritheia

When I wrote my final essay about Corfu at university, I discovered the existence of a ghost village only eight kilometres from Kassiopi. The mere mention of the word ‘ghost’ is probably enough to inspire you to pay the area a visit, to see the place with your own eyes! A small village with unique architecture, Old Peritheia was abandoned by its residents who left in search of better living conditions. Old Peritheia got its name from the seven temples that surround it. It is located on a green slope of incomparable.

Nowadays, Peritheia is no longer abandoned. There are three or four traditional taverns, which offer wayfarers local organic products.

The popular jeep safari takes in the picturesque villages of the unspoiled Corfiot countryside, as well as the island’s highest point, Mount Pantokrator, which promises 360 -degree views of Corfu and beyond.

Jeep Safari

I never really knew what the word safari meant exactly. It always made me think of Africa or the jungle and chasing innocent animals. My confusion cleared when I found out about the jeep safari that the company I work for organises. I decided to experience a safari as a passenger and not as a driver.

We started from Corfu Town with approximately 15 jeeps and headed north. Our first visit was to Sokraki, a beautiful traditional village off the most amazing winding road, high above Ano Korakiana. The road winds through some of the most tranquil, beautiful old fields, with breathtaking 360-degree views of the island. After a short break for coffee we passed by other small villages that I had never heard of before, such as Zigos, Omali and Strinilas. Those old Corfiot villages gave me the feeling that time had stood still for the past 100 years. What I enjoy most when I visit places like these are the old houses with the small balconies, the little colourful yards and the small things that remind me of the past, such as a rusty bicycle at the corner of a house or a granny shucking corn.

Driving on serpentine roads, which are typical of this area, I found myself at the highest point on the island: Mount Pantocrator.  From 960 metres above the surface of the sea, I could gaze down at the whole of Corfu as well as a big part of Albania. The monk who was entering the small church, which is on top of the mount, told me that on clear days it’s even possible to see the Italians having their espresso.

The next stop was the scenic shore of Kalamaki, which has one of the nicest golden sandy beaches in northern Corfu. We spent one and a half hours there swimming and relaxing. On our way back to Corfu Town we went through the highest village on the island, Spartillas. It is a large ancient village, in the protected shadow of Mount Pantocrator. Because of its view, Spartillas is known as ‘the window of Corfu’. For me, it was the window to eternity…

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architecture & landmarks, beaches, Europe, food & drink, Greece, islands, local knowledge, mountains, outdoors, personal experience, Southern Europe,

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