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The Local Arts of Luang Prabang, Laos

  • Laurel Angrist
  • 18 January 2011

Long known as one of Southeast Asia’s most visually stunning cities, Luang Prabang, Laos, is replete with uncommonly beautiful sights, not the least of which are the resplendent palaces and golden-roofed wats (temples) associated with this former royal capital. Now also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and must-see destination for anyone fascinated by the remarkable ancient culture of Laos, the city remains largely protected from the stresses of mass tourism, awaiting visitors with spectacular sunsets along the Mekong and morning processions of saffron-clad monks receiving their daily alms.

The Royal Palace of King Sisavangvong in Luang Prabang, Laos

The spectacular Royal Palace of King Sisavangvong, a Luang Prabang landmark, is now a national museum. Photo by Stanislas Fradelizi

Given the inspiring surroundings and long history, Luang Prabang has understandably become an important artistic and cultural centre as well. Travellers will discover a multitude of phenomenal museums, craft shops and other cultural offerings, with plenty of opportunities to participate in and learn about local traditions through activities such as weaving lessons, fashion shows and much, much more.

Exploring the Culture

Luang Prabang’s museums offer travellers a window into the unique history and cultural heritage of Laos. Anyone especially interested in local arts and culture should head first to the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre, an independent non-profit museum located behind Luang Prabang’s Dara Market. Having opened its doors in 2007, the centre features a variety of exhibitions and resources dedicated to the collection, preservation and interpretation of the local arts and lifestyles of Laos’ ethnic groups. Permanent displays offer insight into the cultural melting pot through artefacts, writings and photographs that help visitors understand more about the identities of groups such as the Akha, Hmong, Tai Dam and Khmu.

The Royal Ballet in Luang Prabang, Laos, showcases traditional folksongs and dancing

The Royal Ballet, banned for period after 1975, now once again holds regular performances. Photo by Stanislas Fradelizi

An easy walking distance from the centre is the Royal Palace of King Sisavangvong, built in 1904 and now a national museum. At the entranceway, keep an eye out for a three-headed elephant sheltered by a sacred white parasol, the symbol of the Lao monarchy. Inside the museum’s garden, the Royal Ballet troupe holds regularly scheduled performances. The productions feature dancing and traditional folksongs that describe events from the Phra-Lak Phra-Lam, the sacred Lao version of the ancient Sanskrit epic, the Ramayama.

Local handicrafts made from indigenous bamboo grown in the forests around Luang Prabang, Laos

Local handicrafts made from indigenous bamboo grown in the forests around Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo by Stanislas Fradelizi

Taking Textiles Seriously

A visit to Fibre2Fabric, a non-profit gallery space, is an eye-opening exploration of the cultural significance of textiles from various regions and ethnicities in Laos. Past exhibits have focused on the weaving motifs of the Tai-Lao people, the batik patterns of the Hmong, and ikat, a ceremonial tie-dye technique practiced by many ethnic groups. The Fibre2Fabric gallery lies just off Mekong Road, three blocks from the 16th-century Wat Xieng Thong (“Monastery of the Golden City”).

The founders of Fibre2Fabric, Veomanee Duangdala and Joanna Smith, are also the brains behind OckPopTok, a textile gallery and weaving centre that works with local development agencies to train Lao artisans and provide sustainable employment to rural people in Laos. OckPopTok – which translates to “east meets west” – also offers hands-on activities for visitors to Luang Prabang, including half-day classes on Hmong batik drawing, a full-day course on natural dyes and weaving and and an afternoon workshop about silkworms and silk making. All classes take place at the Living Crafts Centre, which sits approximately two kilometres outside of town and overlooks the Mekong.

Getting the Goods

Take-home products and and accessories handcrafted by local Lao artists can be found at Kopnoï, an award-winning fair-trade export company based locally in Luang Prabang.

Kopnoï, which means “little frog” in Lao, was founded by Québecois Isabel Dréan and her partner Simon Côté. The pair first landed in Laos in 2001, settling in Luang Prabang and opening L’Etranger, Books and Tea, the town’s first licensed bookshop. In the months that followed, the couple discovered the cotton handmade in Laos and, impressed by its fine quality, decided to get involved in clothing production. Recognising another worthy business venture, Dréan and Côté launched Kopnoï in November 2005. “Fair trade was hardly ever mentioned at that time in Laos,” Dréan recalls. “We wanted to make a difference not only in town, but also reach out to small villages all over Laos.”

At Kopnoi, an award-winning fair trade shop, travellers can pick up a wide range of goods all locally made in Laos. Photo by Simon Côté

At Kopnoi, an award-winning fair trade shop, travellers can pick up a wide range of goods all locally made in Laos. Photo by Simon Côté

The company, which aims to promote handmade Laotian goods on the world market, has grown exponentially since its first days and now works closely with artisans, villagers and local nongovernmental organisations to create products useful in modern life using traditional Lao skills. “We have developed a lot of different products, lines and collections over the years,” Dréan explains, “but we always make sure that our producers have standards and a philosophy that goes with ours, protecting the artisans, farmers and villagers.”

The Ethnik Fashion showcases the colourful clothes worn by a wide variety of ethnic groups living in Laos

The Ethnik Fashion showcases the colourful clothes worn by a wide variety of ethnic groups living in Laos. Photo by Simon Côté

Among Kopnoi’s best-selling items are its sustainable bamboo drinking straws and cotton apparel. The company also sells a range of home décor, jewellery and silk products. Luang Prabang visitors wishing to sneak a peek at the latest fashions should head to Hive Bar, a popular local drinking establishment, for their Ethnik Fashion Show. Scheduled for Tuesday through Saturday at 7pm and featuring more that 95 costumes, the show pays homage to the wide variety of traditional clothes worn by more than 20 different ethnic groups in Laos. The colourful and entertaining event lasts one hour, but the party continues well into the night!

For more information on events and activities in Luang Prabang, as well as an insider’s selection of local accommodation, contact TeamWorkz, your whl.travel local connection in Laos.

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Laurel Angrist

Laurel Angrist is a travel-obsessed New York City native who specializes in stories about travel, the arts and culture. She is a maniac for mountains, street food and local art, and although she's a lousy driver she's always up for a road trip! Visit her website: www.laurelangrist.com.
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architecture & landmarks, Asia, cities, festivals & events, fine arts, handicrafts & shopping, human interests, Laos, museums, music, South-Eastern Asia, whl.travel, world heritage,

2 Responses to “The Local Arts of Luang Prabang, Laos”

  1. Teamworkz says:

    Luang Prabang is riddled with small stores selling local handicrafts, carvings, drawing and woven textiles. The night market is a great way to experience this – just make sure you have enough room to carry all the bargains you will find!

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