Living in splendid isolation in the remote mountains around Luang Namtha in northern Laos, the country’s most traditional ethnic groups have for centuries cultivated rice and inhabited small rural villages. For these tribes, however, change is afoot. They’re at a crossroads between traditional ways of life and the forces of modernity and tourism.

In 1993, the surrounding region was declared the Nam Ha National Biodiversity Conservation Area, and since then, streams of tourists plan treks to enjoy the outdoors of Nam Ha and the culture of Laos’ ethnic groups.

Traditional farmers plant rice outside Ban Nam Lue, a small village about 15 kilometres west of Luang Namtha town in northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Conservation efforts and ecotourism projects in the area aim to pass the benefits of tourism on to the local people, yet finding the right way to moderate contact between Lao subsistence farmers and westernised tourists is not easy. Travellers want to understand and appreciate the distinct practices and customs of ethnic groups like the Akha, Khmu, Hmong and Lahu, but oftentimes they lack a solid cultural context. Of course, language too is a big barrier.

In response to this, the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang provides all visitors with the kind of well-grounded insight they seek.

Beginnings of the TAEC

The two founders of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC), Tara Gujadhur and Thongkhoun Soutthivilay, recognised a need for more easily accessible information about Laos’ diversity of cultures and ethnic groups. They began TAEC as a project in 2005 and opened doors to the public in 2007. Tara’s background in sustainable tourism development and anthropology complemented Thongkhoun’s 10 years of experience as Collection Manager at the Luang Prabang National Museum.

Inside the TAEC in Luang Namtha Laos, the local dress of the area's traditional ethnic groups and other aspects of their culture are displayed. Photo courtesy of TAEC/Kees Sprengers

More than five years later, Tara is pleased to report that support for TAEC has grown healthily. Word is spreading and now the ethnography museum is included in most guidebooks and itineraries. “Visitors are very appreciative to be learning more information about the country and people, and they’re often interested in hearing about our school activities, outreach and livelihoods work,” says Tara.

Complex Impacts

When asked about the positive effects of tourism on Laos’ ethnic groups, Tara readily lists several. She has seen how tourists can help create interest in the cultures and traditions of ethnic groups, a point of real pride within the communities. This is an important cue to the government about the importance of safeguarding ethnic heritage.

In the Hmong village of Ban Tha Luang in northern Laos, girls dress in traditional costume, play games and sing songs to celebrate the Hmong New Year. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Tourists also create demand for traditional crafts such as weaving, basketry, natural dying and woodcarving, which might otherwise slowly die out. Currently, the TAEC Museum Shop supports over 500 ethnic artisans from 12 provinces in Laos. Additionally, museum donations have gone to ethnic youth internships, village research funds and developing handicrafts with rural minority communities.

Unless programs are careful planned, however, there can be some negative consequences for tourism’s main stakeholders: the ethnic groups themselves. “Uncontrolled or poorly managed tourism and a rapid influx of new wealth can create community tension and hasten the erosion of social structures and community ties,” observes Tara. “Sometimes tourism also can exoticise, commodify or compartmentalise ethnic minorities, making villages into attractions rather than vibrant living cultures.”

The father of a Khmu family in Laos eats with his children inside their home in Ban Sopsim on the Nam Tha river. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Keeping it Positive

So how can travellers to Luang Namtha ensure that their presence is beneficial to local communities? First, you are encouraged to gain a little bit of understanding about the ethnic groups by visiting the TAEC or at least doing some background reading about local Lao cultures and traditions. Secondly, you can contribute to the economy as locally as possibly. You are strongly encouraged to buy new and locally produced handicrafts (as opposed to antiques or factory-produced souvenirs) directly from communities, small markets or fair trade stores.

It is also important to arrange tours through operators with good records. Look for agencies with solid community partnerships or those that have been designated as ‘responsible’ by independent third parties. Tours in which ethnic minorities are made to ‘dress up’ or are photographed and visited without being compensated should be avoided. Also, any tour guides who do not speak or behave respectfully to local people should be reported to their tour companies.

In many of the ethnic villages of northern Laos, the traditional housing style is a stilted hut with thatched grass roof. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Unfortunately, bad behaviour sometimes comes from locals because they think that’s what tourists want. Try not to reinforce this pattern.

Looking Ahead

As in the rest of the world, the lives of indigenous ethnic groups are changing rapidly. In Laos, faced with the forces of globalisation, subsistence farmers in rural areas often choose to leave their traditional ways of life in search of better opportunities in urban areas or abroad. Local, responsible tourism in these areas can provide them with opportunities in their home villages that impart the value of their unique cultural heritage.

What will the village life of Laos’ ethnic groups look like 50 years from now? Tara is optimistic. “These are vibrant cultures, and though they will change and evolve and perhaps be almost unrecognisable in 50 years, for the most part they will remain intact. Tourism can help to celebrate culture and create an appreciation for ethnic diversity.”

In villages such as Tai Dam, Laos, young girls learn the craft of weaving at an early age. Tourists can help maintain a demand for traditional handicrafts such as this, keeping new generations interested in learning. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Looking for a responsible trekking tour in Luang Namtha? Try a two-day or a three-day trek in the Nam Ha forests, where you’ll encounter the Akha and Khmu ethnic groups. Book through responsible tourism experts Teamworkz, the whl.travel local partner in Luang Namtha. Of course, when in Luang Prabang, be sure to visit the Traditional Arts and Ethnography Centre.

Cynthia Ord

Cynthia Ord discovered the WHL Group while interning with the local partner Outdoor Albania for a summer. She is currently based in South America, working with WHL Assist, helping out with The Travel Word, and planning her next trip. On the side, she writes about the impacts of tourism for her blog, tourism, people and the earth.

Other posts by Cynthia:

• Five MORE Ecolodges to Plan Your Trip Around
• What is Tourism’s Biggest Threat to the Environment?
• How to Prolong Your Travels Through Work Exchange

View a full list of posts by Cynthia.

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This entry was posted on Friday, August 5th, 2011 at 10:00 am and is filed under the following categories: