True, Albania might not come to mind as a destination for amazing ruins and cultural heritage, especially in the shadow of an archaeological giant like Greece, its neighbour to the south. Yet ancient civilisations have left their fascinating marks throughout the Balkan peninsula, including Albania. In fact, all of Albania’s three UNESCO-listed World Heritage Sites exhibit grand-scale traits to rival any of their Balkan neighbours. And the tale of the Cyclops from Homer’s epic Odyssey is understood to have been set in Albania.

Like a thousand unblinking eyes, the famous windows of Berat, Albania, stare back at admirers. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Joonasl

Berat, City of a Thousand Windows

The historic centre of Berat, also known as “the city of a thousand windows,” made the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008. Walking next to the river and wandering through Berat’s narrow alleys, takes you back in time and reveals the rich history of a settlement dating from 2600-1800 BCE, making it one of the oldest towns in Albania. The interesting architecture shows Islamic influences from the Ottoman period, but also of Christian Orthodox traditions. On top of the hill is a beautiful medieval citadel with a lively village, beautiful churches and a mosque inside the fortress walls.

Are there really a thousand windows, as stipulated by the city’s epithet? An official count hasn’t surfaced yet, but looking out onto the layers of whitewashed buildings that make up the face of Berat, you do indeed get the impression of thousands of eyes (the rows and rows of windows) gazing back.

Gjirokastra in southern Albania is known as the "city of two thousand steps." Three locals have picked one of them for spending a quiet afternoon. Photo courtesy of flickr/formanella

Gjirokastra, City of Two Thousand Steps

Located in the beautiful Drinos River valley in Southern Albania you’ll find Gjirokastra, a city with a tumultuous past. It has served as a feudal stronghold, Ottoman jewel, Italian colony and territory occupied by the Greek army during the first Balkan war.

Gjirokastra is hometown to two of the most notorious Albanians: Communist dictator Enver Hoxha and writer Ismail Kadare. The city retains an impressive fortress, a bazaar, an 18th-century mosque and several churches. It was inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2005.

Gjirokastra’s unique architecture, developed in the 17th century by the Ottomans when building on steep hills, features distinctive stone roofs, wooden balconies, whitewashed stone walls and many stepped passageways. This is why Gjirokastra carries the nickname “city of two thousand steps.” Again, an official count has yet to be made, but wandering up and down the steep alleyways of Gjirokastra, you will have little doubt that the city has certainly earned its nickname.

Each year, thousands of tourists visit the ancient ruins of Butrint, Albania, reaffirming its need for both UNESCO and governmental protection. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Marc Morell

Butrint, Preserved for Visitors in the Thousands

Situated on a small peninsula surrounded by a picturesque lagoon in southern Albania, Butrint is arguably the most interesting archaeological site of the Adriatic Sea region. Inhabited since prehistoric times, this site has been home to Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians who built their monuments in glades in the forest. Butrint is both an archaeological site and also a beautiful natural habitat with diverse plant and bird life.

Butrint was designated as a World Heritage Site in 1992. Five years later, during the period of civil unrest in Albania in 1997, Butrint was removed to the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger. As a result, huge investments were made to protect the archaeological site and to extend the protected area to include the surrounding landscapes. That led to declaring the 29 square kilometres around it a national park in 2000 and the park has since been extended to 86 square kilometres. The site was removed from the ‘in danger’ list and its status now helps curb encroaching construction. Butrint attracted around 20,000 visitors in 1996 and the number grows each year, confirming its importance to Albanian heritage and tourism. Its doubly-protected status as UNESCO site and a national park helps ensure that tourism pressure is regulated and tourism dollars keep the site preserved.

Are you planning a trip to Albania? Check out the villages of the northern mountains, the coasts of the Adriatic and Ionian seas, and the rich cultural heritage with Outdoor Albania, the whl.travel local connection headquartered in Tirana, Albania.

At Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany, the inside of the biertzelt (beer tent) is packed and lively. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Gutsul

But only Munich, Germany, is the home of the original Oktoberfest, where festival-goers begin gathering in front of immense beer-branded tents in the early hours of the morning, eagerly awaiting their turns in packed communal drinking areas. It’s the Mecca of brew, imitations of which have sprouted all over the globe, even in places as far away as Canada, Vietnam, Australia and Argentina.

In a tribute to Oktoberfest, The Travel Word brings you a selection of seven special brews from different parts of the world. Although beer is the world’s most widely consumed alcoholic beverage, finding hidden gems requires a bit of digging, so we asked some of our WHL Group local partners across the globe to bring forth their beers of choice. Here are seven of the more surprising ones.

(For more just-as-surprising information about local drinks – and lots about local eats, check out our Culinary World Tour of Local Food.)

Baja Blond is the local's favourite beer in Los Cabos, Mexico

Mexico’s Cerveza of Choice

According to Karem Matamoros, the WHL Group local partner in Los Cabos, Baja Blond is the Mexican beer locals love. The fledgling brewery opened in 2007 in the Mexican state of California Sur and has already made its marks in the highly competitive world of brewing. Their hallmark is the Baja Blond “Cream Ale,” described as having a light golden colour, a whole-bodied flavour and a good balance of sweet and bitter. Locals abide by it and take great pride in promoting the only brewery in their state.

Travel to Los Cabos, Mexico, the home of Baja Blond, with Karem.

A local enjoys a fresh brew of artisanal 'pito' from a calabash shell in Ghana. Photo courtesy of Marian Thompson

Ghana’s Ethnic Beer

Marian Thompson, the whl.travel local partner in northern Ghana, gave us the scoop on pito, which is Ghana’s artisanal, village beer. It is brewed from fermented sorghum (also known as guinea corn) in the northern parts of the country, where it is very popular and widely consumed. Its production methods have remained traditional and are therefore quite labour-intensive, providing a number of people with a local livelihood. Traditionally, a calabash bowl is used to share pito, the ultimate refreshment under the scorching Ghanaian sun.

Travel to Northern Ghana with Marian, who can introduce you to pito, as well as other qualities of village life.

Cisk lager is a best-selling brew on the island of Malta. Photo courtesy of Marco Attard

Malta’s Favourite Malt Beverage

If you’re wandering through Malta’s history-imbued villages, do stop at a bar to try some brew. Simonds Farsons Cisk PLC is the Maltese beer company that Marco Attard, the WHL Group local partner in Malta, swears by. The veteran brewery opened in 1928 and has never changed the recipe or production process of its best-selling Cisk Lager, a golden-coloured, bottom-fermented beer with a distinctive and well-balanced character.

Travel to Malta with Marco for a taste of Cisk Lager.

Birra Tirana has a billboard display in downtown Tirana, Albania. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Rainchill

Albania’s Best Brew

When in Albania, do as the Albanians do, which is drink lots of local brew. Albania’s Birra Tirana is the beer that the WHL Group’s local travel expert, Laura Payne, prefers. Only the freshwater sources of Tirana’s surrounding mountains are drawn upon to manufacture this prized drink. Critics seem to agree it has a nice colour with moderate carbonation. The aroma is smooth and richly malty.

Travel to Albania with Laura, who also knows the Albanian Alps from which Birra Tirana’s waters flow.

Itaipava is a big hit in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, especially when served ice-cold in the summer. Photo courtesy of Luiz Renato Malcher

Brazil’s Carioca Beer

Luiz Renato Malcher, the WHL Group local expert in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, says that Cariocas (people from Rio) love their pints of Itaipava beer. Why? For starters, it is lighter than the others and can be drunk in larger quantities on a hot sunny day without making you feel full. It is best served trincando, as locals say, which means near-frozen. Known to be a light-bodied, soft and rounded beer, it is distinctively sweet and grainy on the palate. To enjoy a chilled Itaipava on Rio’s beach strip with a nice view of the sea is a classic Rio moment.

Travel to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, with Luiz and learn where to get the best Itaipava.

Pilsener, one of two very popular beers in Quito, Ecuador, competes with Club for #1 status. Photo courtesy of Maria Fernanda Cabascango

Ecuador’s Draft Duo

A palpable rivalry reigns between Ecuador’s two best lager beers. Even Maria Fernanda Cabascango and Sebastian Sierra, the WHL Group local partners in Quito, Ecuador can’t come to a consensus. Maria vouches for Pilsener, whereas Sebastian is a staunch defender of Club. Pilsener pours with a pale yellow colour and a creamy white head. It is brilliantly clear and has a distinct corn edge to its flavour. Club beer, while also a clear lager, picks up a noticeable earthy and peppery flavour from the hops. Guess you’ll have to visit Quito to decide for yourself!

Travel to Quito, Ecuador, with Maria and Sebastian, and plan for Pilsener-or-Club blind taste test.

A window display of craft beers at Oktoberfest in Villa General Belgrano, Argentina. Photo courtesy of Cynthia Ord

The Argentinean Oktoberfest

Oktoberfest in Argentina – a country known more for its fine wines than its beers – is one of the largest outside of Germany. At this time of year especially, the village of Villa General Belgrado (in the province of Cordoba in the Argentine Pampas) draws large crowds interested in its cervezas artesanales (craft beers). Wandering the streets of Villa General Belgrado with giant beer steins (or mass as the Germans call them) in hand, Oktoberfest-goers are transported into a little piece of Germany in the southern hemisphere. The town was founded by two Germans in 1930 and their influence is obvious; buildings have characteristically Bavarian facades, shops sell handmade strudel and chocolate, and microbreweries supply craft beer.

Cynthia Ord, the manager at WHL Assist, is currently headquartered in Argentina and reports that the variety and quality of local craft beers is impressive; you can find lagers, stouts and all sorts of creative brews. During the two-week Oktoberfest celebration, when hordes of people enjoy spring weather and asado (barbecue), the goal is to keep your stein full of something until the small hours of the morning, reminding you that you are in Argentina after all.

Laura has a large collection of fearless travel tales from the carefree days when she was in her 20s. She did a lot of solo travel, ranging from a Greyhound bus trip all over Canada and hitchhiking on Vancouver Island to a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in South Africa.

One of many things that enchanted Laura Payne about Albania was its ancient ruins such as Butrint (pictured in the background here) in the south of the country

She marvels at her luck. In all her years of young and adventurous solo travel, she never found herself in a bad situation. Her best memories are of the people met and experiences had on the road.

WHL Group: Which is your favourite WHL Group destination
Laura: Albania, although I may be biased.

WHLG: Which would you most like to visit?
Laura: Vanuatu.

WHLG: What would you never travel without?
Laura: Mosquito repellent.

WHLG: What do you miss most about home when travelling?
Laura: My bathtub.

WHLG: What’s the most adventurous trip you’ve ever taken?
Laura: Rock jumping in Greece (from 18 metres above the sea!), driving solo from Cape Town to Johannesburg and a camping trip in a snowstorm in Canada.

Whether in western Europe or in the Albanian Alps, skiing has always been one of Laura Payne's favorite pastimes and earliest travel memories

WHLG: What is your funniest travel experience?
Laura: I was still in my teens and on a Eurail train trip in Europe with a close friend of mine. We decided to use the very last of our money to buy tickets to a rock festival. The only problem was that we had no money left for food. Soon we discovered that we could ‘earn’ food and drinks by returning plastic cups to the catering company. We had so much fun collecting the cups and trying to get as many as possible that we almost forgot to listen to the music!

WHLG: What is your scariest travel experience?
Laura: It really was not scary, but once when I was hitchhiking, a car stopped and I opened the door. At first glance there was nothing wrong in particular, but my intuition said to not get in. So I said thanks and closed the door, letting him drive off without me. I still think it was a good decision.

WHLG: If you could go on holiday with anyone famous – living or dead – who would you take?
Laura: Johnny Depp! Do I need to say why?

Laura can't wait to show Lilou, her baby girl, all the places that she loves in Albania, the country that she now calls home

WHLG: Describe the best and worst accommodation you’ve ever stayed in.
Laura: Best: A really nice hostel in South Africa, where they gave us free lobster with their Christmas dinner. Worst: A hotel in Cumbucco, Brazil.

WHLG: Describe your earliest travel memory.
Laura: I was trying to snowboard with one ski when I was just three years old.

WHLG: Please briefly explain what you think local travel is.
Laura: As I’ve written elsewhere, it involves as many local actors as possible in the travel experience of the tourist.

WHLG: In what ways do you see local travel benefiting the country in which you live?
Laura: We have created a network of local drivers and guesthouses which we helped get ready for tourism. Nowadays we supply them with many tourists a year!

The entrance of the Cave of Pellumbas in Albania, now with a platform for stability and an informative plaque for visitors to reference

Its Size

For a long time, folk wisdom about the cave was that it was endless. In reality, though, from front to back, it measures 360 metres long, 10 to 15 metres in width and 15 to 45 metres in height. I had read a little about the cave before I visited, but the numbers don’t prepare you for the enormity of it once you’re inside. Voices echo like bat sonar off the cavernous walls.

Its History

Considered one of Albania’s many great archaeological treasures, the cave has received a good deal of research attention from the Tirana Archaeological Institute, as well as scientists from Italian universities. They have unearthed the remains of an ancient species of cave bears (Ursus spelaeus) that date back to 10,000 to 400,000 BC. They have also found traces of human activity from the Middle Paleolithic period, which spanned from 300,000 to 30,000 years ago. Evidence from the entrance of the cave suggests that these early humans were utilising the flint-sharpening and fire technology that developed at the time.

Albania native Endrit Necaj is dwarfed by one of Pellumbas cave's many stalagmites. Local lore surrounds some of their unique shapes.

The geological history of the place is also hard to fathom. I saw giant stalactites and stalagmites, but my little human brain couldn’t quite absorb how long it actually took for them to form. The average growth rate of a stalactite is 0.13 mm per year. The formations in this cave are several metres in length and even width. I tried to imagine the time involved, but then I stopped and just admired their phantasmagorical beauty.

How Much Work Has Been Invested in It

As we approached the well-marked trailhead leading to the cave, we were greeted by Behar Duqi, the local village guide and guardian of the cave. He collects the small entrance fee of 100 lek (about US$1) and offers to accompany visitors on the hike from the village to the cave. As we approached the cave, it was evident that forces were at work. Bilingual signs mark the way and warn against littering, guardrails line steep edges, steps ease along the steeper inclines and benches punctuate the trail at the finest viewpoints. The trail is impressively tourism-ready.

Immeasurable time, energy and care have been poured into the details of the trail to the cave, such as this hand-illustrated signage in both English and Albanian.

Who was behind this massive effort? With funding from the Dutch Embassy in Albania, the Outdoor Albania Association does ongoing work to make the cave accessible to tourists and to protect the area from degradation. The association, through its projects in Pellumbas, Vuno and other sites, has been clearing the path toward a more sustainable tourism future in Albania. This means tourism that places an emphasis on the natural and cultural assets of Albania, preserving these endowments over time rather than threatening them.

How Unnoticed It Has Gone

It is a wonder how an excursion this good is still so far off the radar. None of the many independent travellers I met in Albania had even heard of it. While Outdoor Albania offers a guided day tour, it has received little attention. The In Your Pocket guidebook does mention it, but Lonely Planet does not. Behar Duqi says that the cave received only about 100-200 visitors during the entire summer high season of 2010. Both foreigners and Albanians are missing out! Where is everyone?

Basking in the view from the mouth of the Cave of Pellumbas, Albania

The cave’s web presence is also weak. Several of the top search results were actually posts written by my friend Lieke Van Leeuwen, although by modifying my search to include the character ‘ë’ for the correct local spelling – Pëllumbas – a few more informative pages came up. Outdoor Albania Association also maintains a bilingual website about the caves and Pellumbas appears in an index site of caves.

The View

Description is insufficient here. The path looks out toward a stunning panorama. It must be seen to be believed.

The Selimaj Guesthouse in Valbona, Albania. Click on picture to learn more.

The village of Theth has made its way into the guidebooks as a must-see in the Albanian Alps, and for good reason. The nearby villages of Valbona and Vermosh are also idyllic, photogenic and even less tourist-trodden.

The Nacaj Guesthouse, Vermosh. Click on picture to learn more.

The village of Vermosh is in the northernmost tip of Albania, just a few kilometers from the Montenegran border. Given the population of only a few hundred people, rural serenity is guaranteed.

The Nika Guesthouse, Nderlysa (near Theth). Click on the picture to learn more.

The whitewashed exteriors and antiquated roofing of traditional guesthouses lend them character and distinction. They punctuate the postcard landscape of the Albanian north.

The Mitaj Guesthouse, Vermosh. Click on the picture to learn more.

The families with guesthouses in Vermosh are hoping that their village will follow in Theth’s footsteps as an emerging destination for tourism in Albania. A highlight in Vermosh is the Mitaj guesthouse and nature hostel, where the owner has actually built a treehouse bar on his land.

The Roza Rupa Guesthouse, Theth. Click on the picture to learn more.

Various development organizations, such as the German Organization for Technical Cooperation, have worked with the host families in the area to bring their guesthouses up to standard. While travelers must keep in mind that these are very modest, simple and rustic family home environments, they will be pleased to find that the accommodations do provide a comfortable stay.

The Terthorja Guesthouse, Theth. Click on the picture to learn more.

The village guesthouses of the north are perhaps at their finest in the late summer and autumn. Fall foliage in this region adds an extra layer of enchantment.

Although this article first appeared on the Outdoor Albania blog, this version of this article was first published by our friends at the Local Travel Movement, who have agreed to its republication here.

View the original article on the Local Travel Movement blog.

The village of Thethi is found in an incomparably beautiful setting

Laura paid her first visit to Albania six years ago and immediately fell in love with the country’s spectacular scenery. She visited beautiful deserted beaches in the south of the nation, where she got to know the passionate people, and rugged mountain ranges in the north, where she connected with hospitable locals. Travelling through the country she saw the enormous potential for tourism that Albania had and was particularly drawn to the Albanian Alps. Realising that most residents would not have the means to promote Albania’s outdoor opportunities to travellers from abroad, she decided that she wanted to do something for the locals.

Opening up the North

Together with her Albanian partner, Gent, Laura started Outdoor Albania, a tour operator specialising in sustainable travel. From the beginning, their aim has been to give their clients a ‘life-seeing’ experience rather than a sightseeing excursion. For the past five years, they have focused mainly on promoting the Albanian Alps and the North. This pristine area has hardly changed over the last 50 years due to its rugged landscape, which kept much of it isolated throughout the 500-year occupation by the Ottoman Empire, the Italian invasion of 1939 and many years of communist rule. Thanks to a network of local families who run village homes and guesthouses, Outdoor Albania now leads travellers to the heart of this amazing and untouched region.

A typical Albanian village house in the village of Vermosh in the Albanian Alps

One of Laura’s favourite places in northern Albania is Thethi, a village surrounded by mountains, rough limestone formations, dense forests, canyons and waterfalls. The harsh natural environment has always made living here hard for the locals, but you wouldn’t know this from their warmth and hospitality.

A Real Local Connection

One of the families in Outdoor Albania’s Thethi network is the Carku family. A woman by the name of None Age – also known as Mother Carku – operates a village house along with her son Mehill and his wife Valbona. For an experience of Albanian culture and rural life, there is nothing like an overnight stay at their Carku Guesthouse or other village homes, like the Terthorja Guesthouse, as it helps locals earn an income through community-based tourism. To Laura, a stay in a village home ensures a unique cultural experience and guarantees that the money spent goes directly to those who need it.

When entering the traditional stone house of the Carku or another family, all guests are welcomed warmly. At the Carku Guesthouse, while guests appreciate the fragrance of thick pinewood planks and sip homemade raki in the garden, Mother Carku prepares a delicious meal with fresh home-grown vegetables and home-baked bread.

Mother Carku oversees life at the Carku Guesthouse of Thethi, Albania

Unique to the Carku village house is that it was the first to open its doors to visitors during the late 1990s, when the community tourism projects were initiated. The guesthouse became a regular meeting place for locals to share their experiences and visions for the future. Serving as an example, the Carku family has been able to demonstrate to the community the immense potential it has to offer.

An Eye for Nature Preservation

Next to meeting local people and experiencing their culture, Laura believes that preserving nature is a fundamentally important aspect of local travel. Consequently, Outdoor Albania endeavours to make tours nature-friendly, always striving to promote protection of landscapes, bio-habitats, traditions and monuments. Furthermore, they provide environmental education for local inhabitants, committing them to the protection of their natural and cultural heritage.

Laura and Gent try to involve as many local residents as possible in their business, using local guides, winemakers, drivers and porters on all of Outdoor Albania’s tours. They have also started the Outdoor Albania Association to implement a wide range of sustainable tourism projects.

Laura (centre) and others from the Outdoor Albania team pay a visit to the family of Nacaj Guesthouse in Vermosh in the Albanian Alps

Laura enjoys collaborating with the locals she meets and seeing the small benefits brought to them through community tourism initiatives. She loves hearing the enthusiastic, colourful, and amusing stories of her guests after a tour or a stay in one of the village houses. For her, local travel became the way to show visitors the ‘real’ Albania, a country with a stunning natural environment, ancient culture and rich national heritage.

Outdoor Albania is the whl.travel local connection in Albania. Please contact them for more information about local travel in Albania, including hotels, tours, activities and a lot of insider tips.

The original version of this article was published on the Outdoor Albania blog.

We had walked the whole day to reach the far northern alpine village of Thethi by crossing the Valbona Pass (almost 2000m, on an elevated trail surrounded by magnificent mountain peaks that overlook sheer glacier valleys.

The house of the Terthorja family (pictured above) was our destination – a guesthouse where we could rest and spend the night. It is located in the centre of the Thethi valley and most likely has the best panoramic setting of any of the other houses of this typical Albanian mountain village.

From the viewfinder of my trusted and relatively lightweight EOS 400D, I framed this ‘oasis of tranquility’ in the middle of the Bjeshket e Namuna (Accursed Mountains) as it was slowly flooded by sunset light – to remind me of such a reward after a long, remote and beautiful walk!

Camera: Canon 400D
Lense: Sigma 17-70; F 2.8-4 Macro
Shutter: 1/250
Aperture: f/4.0

.

Situated in the southeastern Europe, the Balkans is fast becoming one of the most popular destinations for intrepid travellers. It’s a region of incredible untouched nature, delectable cuisines, rich historical lands begging for exploration and understanding, cool ocean breezes across golden sandy beaches, awe-inspiring mountain peaks dotted with centuries-old villages and genuinely friendly and smiling locals. The Balkans is also now quite a safe place to travel, so there’s no excuse not to visit this wonderful part of the world.

The Stari Most (Old Bridge) of Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina, spans the Neretva River. Originally built during the Ottoman era, it was destroyed during the Bosnian-Herzegovian War and then rebuilt according to the old design and using as much of the recovered original stone as possible. The bridge and surrounding historic neighbourhoods are now a World Heritage Site.

Bringing new Balkan travel experiences to visitors in the region has been one driving mission of the International Finance Corporation Advisory Services in Europe and Central Asia (IFC is a member of the World Bank Group), along with the WHL Group and local stakeholders. Working together since 2008 to develop tourism market readiness and infrastructure, these partners have, through a Balkan Hotel Market Access Program, succeeded in improving access to the region for independent travellers who prefer to book and pay for services online.

The project targeted eight destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and Albania for which Web-based travel portals were developed. In each destination, a local operator was carefully selected to own and operate the website, with follow-up support in technical development and web marketing provided by whl.travel (part of the WHL Group). It was not all about building websites though; the hard work fell to the local stakeholders, who worked directly with small accommodation owners unfamiliar with new technologies and therefore more reliant on traditional marketing. Despite the obstacles, Sarajevo and Medjugorje in Bosnia and Herzegovina; the Bay of Kotor, Budva and Podgorica in Montenegro; and Tirana and Shkoder and the Albanian Alps in Albania are now directly connected to the global e-marketplace.

A screen shot of the Tirana, Albania, website

After just one year of operation, the Web portals made possible by the Balkan Hotel Market Access Program had already generated over €105,000 for small accommodation and tour operators in the region. With over 150,000 unique visitors and some 620,000 page visits, the project had far exceeded expectations. The ongoing impact of the project is now also expected to be significant, having spurred commercial development in new destinations across Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Macedonia and further destinations in Albania.

“We managed to achieve all program objectives and the project has been recognized by the IFC management as successful and efficient with significant impact on regional tourism development,” praised Denis Mesihovic, IFC Program Coordinator. “The fact that the program revenue for the first year of the operations was three times higher that the program budget and expenses speaks for itself.”

This is no time to rest on one’s laurels though. “While giant strides have been made with the development of the region’s first online e-commerce enabled booking portals, there is still quite a bit of work that can be done at the product level,” said Zachary Rozga, CEO of WHL Consulting (also a WHL Group company), the entity that managed the project for IFC. “As with many new and emerging tourism destinations, targeted assistance needs to be delivered to the individual hotels, B&Bs and guesthouses on issues like pricing and commissions, digital content development and e-commerce distribution.”

The southern Albanian Jal beaches: still a gem but for how much longer?

One group of such people are the Outdoor Albania Association (OA Association), a Tirana-based not-for-profit working with many ideas and partners toward the development of responsible tourism in Albania. “Together with local community leaders we are clearing and securing trails, improving access to remote attractions, bringing visitors to picturesque villages and training locals to create businesses that are sensitive to the environmental impact and sustainability of their enterprises,” reads a strategy statement on the OA Association website.

It should therefore come as no surprise that one of the OA Association’s current target areas is Vuno and the land around it, particularly the Jal beaches and the walking paths to them.

A Vuno to Know

Vuno is a verdant mountainside village of narrow, cobblestone streets and approximately 200 old stone houses, only a handful of which are inhabited all year round and mainly by the elders of some 40 families. Sadly, long-term neglect has left the delightful streets damaged and dirty and many of the buildings abandoned or in ruin, forgotten by those who have moved to other cities or countries.

Vuno is a verdant mountainside village of narrow, cobblestone streets and old stone houses

With the goal of making things right in a responsible way, the OA Association has stepped in. “Members of the association in cooperation with volunteers and the young of the village, will carry out the cleanup of cobble stone streets and houses’ yards,” says a report about the OA Association’s regional ambitions.

But that’s not all. “The OA Association has started renovating the school so the local kids can use it again. In summer, the school is used as a hostel and the base for the OA Association,” said Laura Payne, an OA Association project initiator. “The plan is to fix some village houses so the locals can use them as B&Bs and gain some extra income. By doing this we are trying to sensitise the locals and show them the tourism possibilities. As the hostel is attracting many backpackers, the local shops and bars are generating more income. Now the owner of the local bar has started selling food as well as drinks. She is one of the people who understand the possibilities of local tourism. The idea is to teach by doing and explaining, to give the locals more ideas for tourism initiatives. This way the tourist get a more varied offer and the locals get more economical means.”

Reach the Beach

Part of the OA Association’s interest in Vuno is its placement as gateway to the beaches of Jal and Gjipe. A collection of small beaches, most accessible by foot, some only by boat, Jal in particular has drawn their attention.

Coastal trail clearing between Vuno and Jal, while certainly hard work, could hardly happen in a more stunning setting

OA Association crews have been clearing and marking the hiking paths in the area, including those to the beaches. Although there is “a narrow strip of tarmac that reaches the beach, clearing the trails enables beach access for tourists staying in Vuno without cars,” commented Gent Mati, head of the OA Association. “The 30-minute walk is very pleasant, and a lot of backpackers that stay in the ‘school’ hostel use the trail to go to the main beach or minor ones.”

“In addition, work needs to be done to protect the beach,” added Payne. “After cleaning the trials to the beach and gaining the trust of the villagers, the next step is to organise a proper waste-management solution and to make sure the locals support the project by no longer throwing their garbage in the sea or near the beach. We are even looking in to the possibilities for a ‘blue flag‘ in this beach, the first in Albania.”

How You Can Help

The OA Association always accepts volunteer help with cleaning and marking the paths. Financial donations are also very welcome to help defray the cost of food for the volunteers and future expenses associated with the waste-management system.

More Information

Read more about the OA Association’s work in and around Vuno, as well as elsewhere in Albania.

The OA Association is a sister organisation of Outdoor Albania, a local Albanian adventure-travel company that works hard at integrating sustainable tourism practices. Outdoor Albania is also your local connection and the whl.travel partner in Albania. For more information about Albania, including hotels, tours, activities and a lot of insider tips, Laura Payne, Gent Mati and their team are standing by at www.travel-tirana.com and www.shkoder-albanian-alps.com.

Once a well-kept secret, Albania is on the verge of being ‘discovered’ by tourists. Until 1992 a communist country closed off to the rest of the world, Albania has only recently seen greater numbers of foreign travellers venture down to its southern Balkan corner of Europe, bringing with them suitcases of western brands and influences. Not to be discouraged though, and despite a growing number of Mercedes-Benzes, Coca-Colas and Mai Tai cocktails, the country remains very Albanian. Quaint mountain villages indifferent to modern development in the cities, which also retain their own unique charm, give rise to incredible travel experiences that you would be hard pressed to find elsewhere in Europe.

A look down Lake of Koman on the way to the Valbona Valley

Neighbouring countries have therefore already started flocking to Albania, with holidaymakers from Greece, Macedonia, Bulgaria and Serbia tempted by the beautiful coastline and, of course, very low prices. As reported by the Albanian national media: In 2008, over 400,000 more foreign tourists visited Albania than in 2007, an increase of about 23%. So while the tough economic times of 2009 are expected to hit other summer destinations hard, tourism in Albania may experience a big lift as people look for affordable memorable holidays.

Going Local

In Albania, already off the beaten track, you can really enter another world. Begin with a meander along the turquoise waters of the narrow and twisting Lake Koman flanked by jaw-droppingly steep cliffs (think Lord of the Rings). Follow this with a moderate-to-strenuous hike through the Valbona River Valley, the gorgeous jewel in the crown of northern Albania. Then descend towards the Theth Valley where you can enjoy extraordinary overnight hospitality in the traditional houses of Albania’s best-preserved alpine village. The surroundings could hardly be more stunning.

The Village House Salimaj, stunningly situated in Valbona Valley

This guided trek to local village houses is just one of many unique experiences offered by Outdoor Albania, a local Albanian adventure-travel company. Although one of many tour companies in Albania, Outdoor Albania is one with its heart in the right place. “We love our city and our country and want to show travellers the true side of Albania and for them to see and do as much as possible!” said the director of Outdoor Albania, Laura Payne, Dutch-born but now considered Albanian by many. “We want to promote the protection of the natural habitats of Albania whilst also supporting the small local communities economically. We try to involve as many actors as possible in our business, using drivers, guides, craft makers, mule/horse porters, winemakers, etc., on our tours.”

Acting Responsibly

Evident in tours like the trek to local village houses, Outdoor Albania believes in responsible tourism. This community-minded approach saw Outdoor Albania selected for a project sponsored by the International Finance Corporation (part of the World Bank Group) to develop tourism infrastructure in the Balkans. One valuable outcome was the creation of the first locally-owned and -operated accommodation- and tour-booking Web portal for Tirana and a travel portal covering the Albanian Alps, both part of the whl.travel global grassroots network of travel websites.

Rafting down the Osumi kanyo, one hour south of Berat in south-central Albania

It doesn’t stop there, though; Outdoor Albania has been working to improve the local environment and alleviate the pressures from social issues felt by certain groups in Tirana. Outdoor Albania continues to promote a recycling initiative to hotels, one outgrowth of which is a programme for Romany woman to collect the discarded aluminium cans as a source of small income. Alongside this, Outdoor Albania is convincing hotels to showcase the artwork of local disadvantaged youth so that travellers can purchase a unique souvenir, the proceeds of which directly benefit the community.

With tour operators like Outdoor Albania helping lead the way in Albanian tourism, no wonder their future looks bright. When considering your next holiday destination, keep Albania in mind and, especially, organizations like Outdoor Albania who work responsibly for the benefit of both guests and hosts.

British Airways has up to seven direct flights each week from London to the Albanian capital city of Tirana; a return ticket costs around 200 GBP. Alternatively, you can connect through Budapest with Malev Airlines from most major European destinations.

Outdoor Albania is your local connection and the whl.travel partner in Albania. For more information about Albania, including hotels, tours, activities and a lot of insider tips, Laura Payne and her team are standing by at www.travel-tirana.com.

.

Want to learn more SUMMER IN THE BALKANS? Read about Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro.