Leaf Peeping in South Korea

‘Leaf peepers’ have plenty of places from which to choose to lose themselves in a dazzling swirl of red and gold. Despite the name, this is not some seedy voyeuristic pastime; rather it’s the wholesome autumnal treat of checking out the colours of the changing leaves. The New England states of the USA are perhaps the most famous locale for spotting fall foliage, but there other notable places off the well-trodden leaf-peeping path. South Korea is quickly gaining a reputation for spectacular autumn colours that rival its more famous neighbour, Japan. Called danpoong in Korean, the annual September-to-November leaf season is a big draw for locals and visitors alike, and with regular danpoong updates from around the country made by the Korean Meteorological Administration, it’s easy not to miss the spectacle!

Jirisan is considered one of the most important mountains in South Korea and the beautiful autumn foliage season begins here in mid-October. By the end of November, the leaves have all turned a deep shade of crimson. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/eimoberg.

Leafy mountainous areas such as Mt. Halla on Cheju-do Island are the best places to get your fill of fall foliage, but even the capital, Seoul, with its tree-lined streets, has a fair share of wow factor. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Changdeokgung Palace boasts a number of beautiful landscaped gardens that are home to hundreds of varieties of trees. The autumnal explosion of colour makes for a very popular day trip, so be prepared to ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ with up to 3,500 other eager peepers a day.

Fungi Foraging in Belarus

Mushroom picking is very popular right across the European continent when the cooler, wetter autumn months see these tasty little fellas popping up all over the place like, well…like mushrooms. Hordes of pickers head out to the forests, wicker baskets in tow, to claim their bounty. Much like its neighbours of Russia, Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania and Latvia, the former Soviet state of Belarus is big on mushrooming and these fruits of the forest figure heavily in the local diet.

The Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve of Belarus is home to over 463 species of mushroom. Its delicate ecosystem also boasts nearly a thousand plant species, many not found elsewhere in Europe, and a thriving animal population including many rare and endangered species such as lynx, wolf, bison and bear. Photo courtesy of www.berezinsky.com

Berezinsky Biosphere Reserve, about 120 kilometres from the capital, Minsk, is one of five national parks in Belarus recognised and supported by UNESCO. Set up in 1925 to protect rare animal species in the north of the country, Berezinsky is a pristine environment of forests, bogs, reservoirs and meadows, as well as a fungi-foraging paradise. However, its special land status means that mushroom and berry picking are strictly limited to designated areas on the outer edges of the reserve, close to the villages. Day trips can easily be arranged from Minsk, but novice ‘shroomers should always go with an experienced local, or, at the very least, use a reference book for guidance.

Mountain Biking in Bolivia

The charmingly named Camino de la Muerte or ‘Road of Death’ links the Bolivian capital of La Paz with the small town of Coroico in Yungas, three hours away. The road has earned its cheery moniker on account of the huge vertical drops, hairpin bends, narrow passes and worryingly high number of fatalities that make it stand out in a country already not known for its road safety.

Despite being described by the Inter-American Development Bank as the world’s most dangerous road, the precipitous road from La Paz to Coroico in Bolivia sees thousands of tourists each year hurl themselves down it. With sheer drops, steep descents, some pretty rough terrain in parts and the possibility of sharing your narrow strip of turf with an oncoming truck, the potential for disaster keeps the punters coming back for more!

A rite of passage for cycling enthusiasts, backpackers and adrenaline junkies from all over the world, the route is now well served by tour companies that provide bikes, safety gear, guides, refreshments and lunch along the way. The five-hour tour begins at La Cumbre, 4,700 metres above sea level, before plunging down 1,200 metres along the cliff edge. At the bottom is some well-deserved R & R, as well as a souvenir T-shirt proudly stating ‘I Survived the Road of Death.’

The mellow colonial town of Coroico is welcome too as a place to unwind after the big-city bustle of La Paz. Coroico is situated on the outskirts of the Amazon rainforest and enjoys warm weather and clear blue skies in marked contrast to the harsher, chillier conditions of Bolivia’s Altiplano. A popular weekend getaway, Coroico is pleasantly quiet at other times, when bargain hunters can easily find discounted accommodation. In addition, September and October, when the weather is cool, dry and sunny, are ideal times to visit, sandwiched as they are between the peak-tourist and rainy seasons.

Whale Watching in the Cook Islands

The Cook Islands of Raratonga, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke and Mitiaro are ideally situated in the path of migrating humpback whales headed to their summer feeding grounds off the coast of New Zealand and the Antarctic. In October it’s therefore possible to watch these majestic creatures breaching and cavorting at the reef’s edge. As the reef is often as close as 10 metres to shore, a beachside sun lounge may be the best viewing platform, thus leaving the animals undisturbed.

The second-most-visited island in the Cook Islands, Aitutaki is surrounded by reef and and is famous for its stunning turquoise lagoon and endless white-sand beaches. It is only 45 minutes from Raratonga by plane.

Also worth mention is Aitutaki Lagoon, 220 kilometres north of Raratonga on the island paradise of Aitutaki. The turquoise waters boast a rainbow display of fish, as well as eagle rays, giant clams and turtles. Day trips can be arranged from Raratonga on planes that depart several times a day.

Mountain Climbing in Tanzania

Flush against Tanzania‘s northern border with Kenya, just over 200 miles south of the equator, Mt. Kilimanjaro – Africa’s highest peak and the tallest freestanding mountain in the world – is at its best in September and October. Temperatures are pleasantly warm, rain and cloud cover are minimal and the views are excellent as a result. Plus, the number of people attempting to scale the 5,895-metre peak becomes a mere trickle in October, which is great news for solitary soul-searchers. There are nine ways up the ‘Roof of Africa,’ with the Marangu Route offering the most in the way of comfort, including shops and sleeping huts. Hardcore climbers may prefer the Umbwe Route – no beds or beer on this path, but the overnights in caves will still seem pretty enticing after a hard day’s hike!

Comprising three inactive volcanic cones, Mt. Kilimanjaro is not only the highest mountain in Africa, but one of the most celebrated peaks in the world. Around 22,000 climbers attempt the ascent every year, with 40% never making it to Uhuru peak, 5,893 metres above sea level. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Muhammad Mahdi Karim

Tanzania has plenty of other tricks up its sleeve during September and October, with diving and sailing on Zanzibar, and game viewing on the mainland all at their best. The coastal winds taper off, which means it’s a good time to hit the beaches near Dar Es Salaam (or even Kenya’s Mombasa), and the drier weather means animals tend to congregate around water sources. To catch the latter, in addition to nearby game drives in the World Heritage-listed Selous Game Reserve (Africa’s largest protected game reserve) or the Mikumi and Udzungwa Mountain national parks, a definite must-see is the migration from the north of Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya, when thousands of wildebeest and zebra cross the Mara River. One of the greatest wildlife shows on earth!

A quick Web search on Minsk will give you the basics: It is the capital and largest city (2007 population of about 1.8 million people) of Belarus. It is also the headquarters of the Commonwealth of Independent States, an alliance consisting of former Soviet Republics. You may also read that Minsk is only appealing to Soviet Union enthusiasts, the city having been heavily damaged during World War II and rebuilt to Stalinist standards in the 1950s. There are even claims that tourism is not much of a priority, the most morbidly alluring curiosity being the bottom left apartment at 4 Vulitsa Kamunistychnaja, the former residence, during his defection to the USSR, of Lee Harvey Oswald, the man believed to have murdered American President John F. Kennedy on November 22, 1963.

Minsk Ministry of Internal Affairs. Or is it the KGB headquarters?

Sadly, most Web sites (and even local residents) don’t take into account some of Minsk’s other curiosities. For example, there’s a grand yellow building with a row of high columns in front of it located near the start of Independence (aka Francyska Skaryny) Avenue. Most guides and guidebooks say that this is the Ministry of Internal Affairs. It’s actually KGB headquarters! Fifteen or so years ago, if you pulled out a camera you were pushed away and asked silly questions; today, you can snap as many photographs as you like.

If meeting locals is more your speed, go to the public gardens in Ploshad Svobody Street near GUM (the state department store at 21 Nezavisimosti Avenue) or near the fountains on Oktyabrskaya Square. Belarusians are very tolerant people, always open to communication. Young people often speak foreign languages (at least on a basic level), mainly English, because it is taught at school. They certainly will be helpful should you need to find your bearings. Older people might enjoy the calm of the Botanical Garden (opposite 93 Nezavisimosti Avenue).

A path through the Minsk Botanical Garden

When with friends, tell them you want to try samogon (the traditional local moonshine [alcohol]) and draniki (potato pancakes usually served with sour cream). Draniki can be found in most restaurants and cafes, but samogon is not as common. Go for a tour to Zaslavl’ or Dudutki (30km and 40km from Minsk, respectively) to feast on both and enjoy some traditional music. The best pancakes are of course homemade, but in Minsk, go for places like Rakovsky Brovar (12 Vitebskaya Street; they also boast having the best beer in town) and Talaka (18 Rakovskaya Street; folk style, very popular among young people).

A warm family welcome during a tour in Zaslavl'

Keep in mind that visiting Belarus can be like stepping back in time in terms of money and payments. While many big shops, restaurants, hotels and bars are equipped to take credit cards, you shouldn’t always count on it. Long lines at ATMs, dinner breaks at exchange offices, holidays and days off make dealing with finances quite unpredictable. Sometimes, even if you see a Visa or MasterCard sign, the cards are not accepted. It is best to have a reasonable stash of cash (the equivalent of US$100 in local currency, the Belarusian rouble [BYR]). When you do need to exchange, the best rates are offered by Minsk Transit Bank (MTB), which has offices right at Victory Square (17 Zakharova Street) and at the Minsk Hotel (11 Nezavisimosti Avenue).