The Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) are the most famous peaks of the Paine massif in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile, a park that covers 181,414 hectares (448,284 acres) of unique landscapes and is a UNESCO-recognised Biosphere Reserve. Photo © Hernán Torres

The park is one of the nature tourism meccas in Chile. Located in the Chilean Patagonia, it covers a total of 181,414 hectares (448,284 acres) and is among the preferred worldwide destinations for trekking, particularly for its famous five-day ‘W’ circuit (named for the shape of the route). In 1978, Torres del Paine National Park was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, because it is one of the world’s most representative regions of different ecosystem and also provides opportunities to measure human impacts on the environment.

The stark granite rock formations known as the Towers of Paine, the Grey and Dickson glaciers, the numerous waterfalls and lakes, and an abundance of wildlife that includes endangered species such as the condor, the puma and the Huemul deer, are some of the main attractions of this protected area.

Irresponsible Tourists

Unfortunately, the most recent recent conflagration is not the first time that a fire has started as a result of a tourist’s irresponsible conduct. In recent years, three forest fires have affected the park, all of them caused by visitors.

The first one occurred in February 2005, when an inferno that lasted 10 days destroyed more than 13,000 hectares (32,000 acres), or approximately 7 percent of the park. It was sparked by a gas stove used by a Czech tourist in a grassland area where camping was not authorised. The disaster was such that the Czech Republic quickly offered help to restore the damaged sectors and sent Czech experts. The forest cooperation project “Assistance to renew Torres del Paine National Park ecosystems damaged by the fire” ended in December 2010. It ran for five years and included reforestation with 180,000 Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio)plants.

In February 2011, a new fire was again cause for grief. An Israeli tourist who lit a bonfire in an unauthorised area initiated it, although it did not have the same catastrophic consequences because rain helped control the flames. The tourist was expelled from the national park and declared an unwelcome visitor because of his irresponsibility.

Most recently, on December 29, 2011, another Israeli citizen caused the second fire in one year when he tried to burn some toilet paper. The devastation, in this case, was far worse. So much so that volunteers from all over the world came to offer help, including Australian firefighters. Until last week, CONAF– the government agency in charge of managing protected areas in Chile – still had staff putting out blazes in different sectors of the park.

The endangered Huemul deer (Hippocamelus bisulcus) lives in the Chilean and Argentine Patagonia and can sometimes be seen in Torres del Paine National Park. Photo © Hernán Torres

Impacts of the Fire

The native forest that was destroyed comprised trees that grow very slowly and reach maturity only after approximately 200 years. They also need to be protected from the cold and wind during the winter and the dryness during the summer.

Revitalising the scorched areas is therefore not just a matter of replanting small trees, but also of providing them with the required growing conditions. In addition, it’s important to consider that a large part of the fire went underground and affected the area’s soil. Wildlife living in the park will probably return to the damaged sectors only to find them completely barren and will have to move elsewhere in search of food and shelter.

The forced closure of the park also affected the local economy, which depends on income generated by thousands of foreign tourists who visit the area during the high season, between November and February.

It is estimated that tourism business owners lost US$2 million dollars, although this is a preliminary figure that may need to be revised upward. Many local businesses have made great efforts to avoid layoffs because their employees rely on the salaries they obtain during these months.

More than 140,000 tourists travel to Torres del Paine National Park in Chile each year, many to admire the Large Paine Waterfall. Photo © Hernán Torres

Data provided by park authorities shows that, despite the park’s partial reopening, visits dropped 50 percent in January. Thankfully, the Chilean government has allocated resources to support micro and small tourism enterprises in the area and has launched an aggressive international promotion campaign to maintain the flow of visitors to the park in 2012 and 2013.

Who’s to Blame?

This third fire in Torres del Paine caused a flurry of angry comments in social networks and the media, with Chileans demanding that the government change the rules for visitors to national parks, such as forbidding camping, and also allocate more resources to protection. Many people also complained about what was considered to be a slow reaction by the Israeli government to offer help, certainly in comparison to that of the Czech Republic in 2005.

The biggest issue is that Torres del Paineis mainly a destination for foreign tourists. Chilean visitors usually just go for a day trip, since the cost of staying overnight is too expensive for them. Many foreign tourists who also can’t afford to travel to the park with a tour operator and stay at one of the several accommodations available there choose to rent a car to go on their own and to camp.

The Cuernos del Paine (Horns of Paine) are one of the most astounding features of the Paine massif in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park. Photo © Hernán Torres

Those are the riskier visitors, because many of them stay outside of authorised areas. In such cases – faced with inadequate infrastructure – they do whatever they can to be comfortable. Although they generally mean no harm, their limited knowledge of the park’s environmental conditions and their disregard for warnings by park rangers leads them to make wrong decisions.

The Israeli tourist who started this last fire has been forced to stay in the area until the legal investigation is over. He has claimed that there were no warning signs in the national park and that nobody gave him any guidelines. That may be true. National parks in Chile – as in many other countries – suffer from decades of insufficient funding to hire necessary personnel and implement adequate surveillance and prevention measures. Things will probably improve after this devastating fire, but until then it is up to us to act responsibly to ensure that beautiful places such as Torres del Paine National Park are preserved for the enjoyment of future generations.

For incredible vacation packages in Chile, including a five-day discovery tour of Southern Patagonia and Torres del Paine National Park, visit Gunyah.com, the WHL Group’s marketplace for authentic and responsible local travel experiences.

Global Basecamps, in collaboration with Maasai Wanderings, contributes to a variety of ecotourism and community outreach programs in Tanzania. In 2004, Maasai Wanderings visited a Maasai village called Ilkurot (which means “dusty place”) just north of Arusha, and saw that the schools were in desperate need of supplies and repairs, and there was no nursery school.

Global basecamps and and Maasai Wanderings are two travel operators that support communities in Tanzania. Photo courtesy of Maasai Wanderings/The International Ecotourism Society (TIES)

Following this visit, the Ilkurot community project was developed to raise funds for the school and to make education more accessible to the Maasai children. The Ilkurot community project began by setting up a nursery school so the village children would be able to enter the Tanzanian education system and would hopefully then move onto primary and secondary school and beyond.

People in Ilkurot live below the Tanzanian poverty line and earn an average of less than $200 per year. The cost of schooling is about $40-$50, making it difficult for children to receive an education. With the help of donors and volunteers, Global Basecamps and Maasai Wanderings strive to make education easily accessible and free to the Maasai children of Ilkurot, with the hope that educated Maasai will be better equipped to aid in retaining their ancient culture.

Welcome Wall, Ilkurot Nursery School, Tanzania

Maasai Village Experience Tours

In 2005, the Ilkurot Nursery School opened and had 45 students between the ages of 5 and 7. The class was held in a small room, but the number of students quickly outgrew the small facilities. As a way to raise additional funds for the school, Global Basecamps in Tanzania developed ‘Maasai Village Experience Tours’, giving travelers the unique opportunity to interact with and learn from the Maasai people. These cultural tours helped raise funds to build a new classroom for the Ilkurot School and continue to help build the Ilkurot community project.

The new classroom was opened in January 2006 with a large increase of students. To accommodate all the new students, the school began holding two sessions a day. The five-year-old group consisted of approximately 110 students and was held in the morning, while the afternoon lessons consisted of about 100 six-year-old students. At each session the students are served uji (ground corn porridge with sugar and oil), the staple diet of the Maasai people.

Porridge time at Ilkurot Nursery School, Tanzania

Community Members Benefit from Ilkurot Nursery School

In 2007, over 1,000 textbooks were purchased, and for the first time students had guides to their studies. During this year, funds were also used to plaster the classroom and fit glass windows, which were previously wooden windows, allowing dust in and making the classrooms very dirty. In an effort to control the amount of dust in Ilkurot, a tree and grass planting project was put in place and a 2,000-liter water tank was installed. Almost 500 trees were planted in an effort to limit the dust that flies around and caused many eye infections and dry coughs.

The school was able to employ a Tinga Tinga artist to stay in the village for a few weeks to paint murals and educational drawings on the classroom walls. The school was also able to build a playground – the first playground in the school and in the district – with a basic football pitch, netball court, and volleyball court that allowed for sports education in their curriculum. In 2009, Ilkurot saw many more changes, including the completion a library/teacher’s resource center.

In addition to providing valuable educational opportunities to children, Ilkurot Nursery School also supports teachers and cooks by offering employment, and promotes additional cultural tourism throughout the village. Recently, a building was constructed to include a kitchen, store, staff room and changing room with a 3,000-liter water tank, and six new toilets. Further, the children now all have school uniforms, made as part of another community project that allows women with disabled children to stay at home and earn an income by creating a sewing business.

Students on the playground, Ilkurot, Tanzania

Maasai Village Life and the Importance of Education

In Maasai villages, young boys are typically sent away with their father’s cattle and accompanied by older morani (warriors) for 3-5 years tending to the cattle. Therefore, the Nursery School has a higher attendance of girls than boys. The girls that attend school also have chores they must complete before or after their lesson. By the time the students are 5 or 6, their mothers may have had 2 or 3 more children, for which the young girls are responsible for. They feed, bathe and carry the smaller children.

The lifestyle of young males and the responsibilities expected of young girls were a hurdle in the Ilkurot community projects. While trying not to disrupt the norms of Maasai life, the school tries to encourage education in the community. The school continually changes lesson schedules and requirements to make it more acceptable to the Maasai community.

The main task of the nursery school is teaching the children Swahili (Tanzania’s national language). Since the primary school curriculum is taught in Swahili only, children who do not learn the language will not be able to advance to primary school. The nursery school also teaches some English phrases because secondary school is taught only in English.

Ilkurot Nursery School classrooms, Tanzania

About Global Basecamps

Global Basecamps is a specialty travel company designed to simplify the process of researching and booking sustainable hotels, lodges and private tours worldwide. Travel at your own pace with a custom itinerary or simply find accommodations and excursions so that your trip priorities are met and you have maximum flexibility while on the road. Global Basecamps is the North American representative for Maasai Wanderings.

On Turkey’s pristine south coast, nestled between the Taurus Mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, the city of Antalya has long been a favourite holiday destination. Dubbed the new Turkish Riviera, the flanking seaboard offers a rich blend of things to see and do in Antalyaand environs, from exploring Roman ruins to hiking or kayaking deep canyons.

Hadrian's Gate in Antalya, Turkey, is widely believed to have symbolised Roman triumph in the region. Photo courtesy of Unlimited Holidays

With 630 metres of dazzling oceanfront, Antalya has earned its title as the gem of the Turkish coast and welcomes nearly one third of all visitors to the country each year. The appeal of the harbour town is easy to see, not least because Antalya weather is pleasant all year round, with guaranteed sun throughout the summer, and because the white-sand beaches are kept clean and boast numerous local operators who manage water sports opportunities such as diving, snorkelling and kayaking.

In and around Antalya, Turkey, are underwater archeological sites, ancient caves, old temples and Xanthos (pictured here), which is mentioned in Homer's Iliad and a World Heritage Site. Photo courtesy of Unlimited Holidays

In addition to Antalya’s seaside attractions, outdoor enthusiasts will delight in hinterland hiking, white water rafting in Korpulu Canyon and relaxing by the magnificent Duden or Kursunlu waterfalls. Antalya is also the starting point for hiking the famous Lycian Way, the longest trekking route in Turkey.

In town, any tour of Antalya is bound to explore the city’s numerous World Heritage sites. The old city of Kaleiçi is a must-see as it contains much of the city’s archaeological heritage. Other nearby sites include ancient ruins such as Perge and Aspendos and Termessos, the latter a city once so well defended that even Alexander the Great could not conquer it.

Also not to be missed is Hadrian’s Gate, the old ornamental archway that marks the town entrance. All of the the area’s impressive historical heritage is fully explained at the Antalya Archeological Museum, which regularly receives high marks from travellers.

Unlimited Holidays, the whl.travel local connection in Antalya and also the Green Path Transfers local partner is a class-A tourism company (the highest rank in Turkey) helmed by Mehmet Yildiz and devoted to preserving this beloved region of their country by offering local connections to hotels that aspire to protect the natural beauty of the city as well as its cultural heritage.

“whl.travel will help us show everyone that Antalya has more than just sea, sun and beaches,” Yildiz says. “It has history, culture and friendly local people too.”

For more information about visiting Antalya, be sure to contact Unlimited Holidays. The Antalya airport, transfer service to which is managed by Unlimited Holidays, is well positioned to connect travellers to other top destinations in Turkey, such as Istanbul and Cappadocia.

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MESAJIN TÜRKÇESİ / IN TURKISH:

Türkiye’nin bozulmamış güney sahilinde, Toros Dağları ve Akdeniz arasında bulunan, uzun yıllardan beri favori bir tatil merkezi olan harikalar diyarı Antalya, whl.travel’ın en yeni destinasyonudur. Türk Rivierası olarak da bilinen kıyı şehri Antalya ve çevresi ile Antik Roma kalıntılarından, doğa yürüyüşlerine, derin kanyonlarda kayaking’e kadar bir çok görülmesi gereken yerler, aktivite ve dogal güzelliklersunar.

Days in Antalya, Turkey, are quiet as locals and tourists head outdoors into the year-round pleasant weather. Outdoor activities in this Mediterranean port include horseback riding, kite surfing, snorkelling, diving and sea cruises. Photo courtesy of Unlimited Holidays

630 kilometrelik göz alıcı sahil şeridi ile Antalya, ülkenin bir yılda elde ettiği turizm gelirinin yaklaşık 3’te birini kazandırdığı için Türkiye sahillerinin incisi ve turizmin baskenti olarak bilinir. Bu liman şehrinin çekiciliği, yaz boyunca eksik olmayan güneşi ile Antalya ikliminin tüm yıl boyunca ılıman olmasının yanısıra bununla birlikte beyaz kum sahilleri temiz tutulduğu için, snorkel ve tüplü dalış ve kayaking gibi su sporları düzenleyen birçok yerli operatörü kendine çekmektedir.

No visit to Turkey is complete without indulging in a Turkish hammam, or bath, an enduring local tradition. Both modern and traditional hammams can be found in Antalya in most luxury hotels or in the town centre. Photo courtesy of Unlimited Holidays

Antalya’nın deniz kıyısı çekiciliklerinin yanı sıra, outdoor meraklıları doğa yürüşlerinden, Köprülü Kanyon’da rafting yapmaktan, ve görkemli Düden ya da Kurşunlu şelalelerinde serinlemekten büyük keyif alacaktırlar. Ayrıca Antalya Turkiye’nin en uzun yürüyüs yolu olarakta bilinen Likya Yolu’nun başlangıç noktasıdır.

Herhangi bir Antalya turu ile şehrin birçok dünya mirası örenyeri ve mesire alanları keşfedilebilir. Eski şehir olarak da bilinen Kaleiçi, şehrin arkeolojik geçmişi ile ilgili birçok görülmesi gereken eser barındırdığı için kesinlikle görülmesi gerekir. Civardaki diğer antik yerleşimler arasında Perge, Aspendos ve daha uzakta bulunan; zamanında çok iyi savunulmuş, Büyük İskender’in bile ele geçiremediği Termessos yer alır.

Ayrıca şehrin girişini gösteren süslü, revaklı Hadrian Kapısı’nın da kesinlikle görülmesi gerekir. Tüm bölgenin etkileyici tarihsel geçmişi, ziyaretçilerinin de sürekli beğenisini toplayan Antalya Arkeoloji Müzesi’nde detaylı birşekilde açıklanmaktadır.

whl.travel’ın yerel bağlantısı ve Green Path Transfer’in yerel partneri olan Unlimited Holidays, Mehmet Yıldız tarafından işletilmektedir ve şehrin doğal yapısının yanında kültürel mirasını da korumaya azami özen gösteren oteller ve yerel bağlantılar sunan, ülkesinin bu nacizane bölgesini korumaya adamış, A-grubu (Türkiye’deki en üst sınıf) seyahat acentasıdır.

“whl.travel Antalya’nın sadece deniz, güneş ve kumdan ibaret olmadığını bunun yanısıra zengin tarihinin, kültürünün ve misafirperver halkınında oldugınu herkese göstermemizde bize yardımcı olacaktır,” diyor Bay. Yıldız.

Antalya’ya seyahatiniz hakkında daha fazla bilgi almak için lütfen Unlimited Holidays ile irtibata geçiniz. Antalya havalimanı transfer hizmetleri Unlimited Holidays tarafından sağlanmaktadır ve misafirlerinin İstanbul ve Kapadokya gibi diğer önemli turizm merkezlerine ulaşımı için çok uygun bir konumda bulunmaktadır.

The Transcarpathia region of southwest Ukraine is a unique area, a tourism pearl sometimes called "Little Switzerland." Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Tetyana

Today, this grand state beckons travellers to explore its intricate church architecture and delicate frescos, bustling cities and authentic rural villages, and gorgeous natural resources. Along the way, you will discover that there are plenty of cultural myths and stories, the kinds about unique local archetypal characters that will capture your imagination and keep you coming back for more local travel experiences in Ukraine.

Here are just three stories with which to whet your appetites.

The Babushkas of Ukraine’s Cities

Babushka (in Russian) or babusia (in Ukrainian), as Ukrainians call their elderly ladies, are an inevitable sight in any city or town in Ukraine, no matter where you go. Stroll along the cobbled sidewalks in Lviv and you will see them, chatting and singing folk songs in front of the impressive Opera Theatre. Hop on a train headed east and you will be greeted by their curious eyes and voices selling homegrown apples and freshly baked buns with jam or poppy seeds. Head further east and you will find them sitting on every street bench, letting the world pass by in the greenery of Kharkiv’s parks, or selling everything from sunflower seeds to flower bouquets in Donetsk.

Kyiv (Kiev) is the capital city of Ukraine. Photo courtesy of IloveUkraine/Marynka

The cultural phenomenon of babusia in Ukraine is directly tied to the country’s troubled history. The 20th century saw an epic tug of war waged between five empires parceling up the country, two world wars fought on Ukrainian territory, tragic famine and a repressive communist regime. Together, these afflictions laid waste to most of Ukraine’s men, leaving behind the now-familiar crowds of babushkas. It is the stories of these women that make Ukraine so different from other cities in Central Europe.

But there is much more to Ukraine’s cities. Charming Lviv will leave you with the smell of freshly ground coffee, the memory of cosy cobblestone streets in a World Heritage-listed town centre and the air of jazz and classical music. Kyiv, the capital city of Ukraine, has the ruthless bustle of a teenager, but also wide promenades and maple trees, the sparkling golden domes of St. Sophia Cathedral and painful insights at the National Chernobyl Museum. Further east and south, grandiose Tsars’ palaces pop up along the Black Sea shore, Tatar mosques call for prayer, and statues of Lenin and Karl Marx crowd the streets of like Donetsk and Odessa.

The Hutsul highlanders of Ukraine are an ethno-cultural that group that still uses ages-old traditional practices and wears traditional clothing for major celebrations. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Traditional Hutsul Highlanders

Far from the urban scapes of Ukraine’s cities are traditional rural villages dotting the hills of the Carpathian Mountains. Lush pine forests and hard-to-access trails make it difficult for many travellers to explore the countryside of the Hutsuls, an ethno-cultural group of Ukrainian highlanders. Unlike more heavily explored areas in Central Europe, Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains remain largely cut off from the main tourist routes. You will find few marked walking trails; organised campsites are virtually non-existent. Most highland roads can only be reached via four-wheel-drive vehicles, on foot or by the horse cart. Few if any people speak English, and most still live by the centuries-old customs of their ancestors.

Hutsul society was traditionally based on forestry and logging, as well as cattle and sheep breeding. Right up until the present day, the month of May marks the Hutsul’s most exciting and colourful celebrations, a time when Hutsul shepherds leave their homes to spend three months herding flocks of sheep and producing delicious cheese known locally as brynza.

Stepping into a Hutsul house in Ukraine is a trip back in time. One of the joys is a taste of delicious homemade cheese known locally as 'brynza.' Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

Stepping into a rural Hutsul house is a trip back in time: you can sample delicious homemade bread, enjoy fresh water from deeply-dug wells, taste vegetables from the local fields and even try on colourful Hutsul clothes, still worn on major village celebrations.

Hutsul people are also famous for their incredible craftsmanship. At the local bazaar, you may find beautifully and intricately decorated eggs, ornate clothing and delicate woodwork.

Travellers lucky enough to spend a day or two in the Hutsul villages during traditional holiday celebrations will come away mesmerised by the whirlwind of colours, timeless customs, plentiful dinners and authentic culture carefully preserved on the outskirts of Europe.

The Carpathian Mountains of Ukraine in winter. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Vast Expanses of Nature

The Dnieper – Ukraine’s largest and Europe’s second-longest river – is bested only by the Danube. So great is its presence, ”Rare is the bird that flies to the middle of the Dnieper,” wrote Nicolai Gogol, a well-known Russian and Ukrainian writer. And while the Dnieper is definitely not the majestic waterway it was during Gogol’s lifetime, it remains an impressive and imposing sight, a symbol of Ukraine’s stunning natural landscapes.

Beyond the Dniepr, due to the sheer vastness of the territory, Ukraine can satisfy even the pickiest nature lover. Dense forests in the north hide countless rivers, marshes, lakes and swamps. In the west the gentle peaks of the Carpathian Mountains tower over the lush valleys, underground caves and World Heritage-listed beech forests boasting an abundance of wildlife. The south brings the warm sunshine, pebbled beaches and the grand Black Sea.

The Dniepr River is Ukraine's largest and Europe's second-longest river. Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Yevgen Pohulaylo

Whether you choose to go hiking in the Carpathian highlands, kayaking along the winding rivers or just enjoy sipping your morning coffee at the artsy cafes of Lviv, don’t forget to listen to the background stories of caring babusias, welcoming Hutsuls, cheerful women, ambitious youngsters, fearless Cossacks and countless others that form an eccentric and yet truthful-to-the-core mosaic of Ukraine, Europe’s largest unexplored frontier.

For an up-close glimpse of local Ukrainian culture – the unique combination of a proud and cosmopolitan European past, eclectic communist history and newly reasserted independence – try the wide range of Ukraine holiday packages available though Gunyah, a marketplace of authentic local experiences and tours for independent travellers.

Most of Corfu’s churches were built in the 17th and the 18th centuries, as a result of religious freedoms granted by the Venetians who held sway over the Mediterranean. Most of the churches belonged to guilds or rich families who were able to afford the construction costs. Characteristic features of the Corfiot churches include the style of their facades, influenced by Italian churches of the 16th century, their tower-like belfry and a ceiling decorated with paintings and frescoes.

Corfu Town has only about 20 churches – many of them very small. Because space in the town is limited, they are to be found squeezed in between houses. Corfu’s most famous church is the St. Spyridonas, which was constructed in 1590 and dedicated to Aghios (Saint) Spyridonas. According to legend, he twice performed the miracle of expelling the plague and the Corfiots call him “Αγιος Σπυρίδων ο πολιούχος” – “Saint Spyridon, the Keeper of the City” as a result. His relics are kept here in a silver urn from the 19th Century and four times a year (11 August, first Sunday of November, Palm Sunday and Holy Saturday) his relics are carried around the streets of the city, in memory of the miraculous actions that saved Corfu and its inhabitants.

Another famous church is Pontikonissi which, along with the beautiful Vlacherna Monastery, is one of the best-known postcard motifs of Corfu Island. Pontikonissi is home to the Pantokrator monastery. Its white stone staircase, viewed from afar, gives the impression of a mouse tail which has resulted in the nickname ‘mouse island’ (and not because it’s home of many mice!). The legend says, that this monastery is the stone-still ship of the Faiakes (Corfiots, according to the Homeric epics) as the god Poseidon punished them for providing help to Odysseus.

Vlacherna with its little convent of the Virgin Mary is painted snow white and has a single tall cypress tree. Pontikonissi and Vlacherna, located in Kanoni, are absolute ‘must see’ sights – small taxi boats are available at Vlacherna to take you to Pontikonissi for a small fee.

Another religious site which is well worth a visit is the Byzantine monastery of the Paleokastritsa (West Corfu). Located on a green hill above the bay and dedicated to Panagia (Virgin Mary), it is also called Theotokos monastery. Parts of this monastery date back to 1228; however the current complex, the cells of the monks and the yard are from the 18th century. The monastery houses a small ecclesiastical museum with rare Byzantine icons, holy books and other relics. However, most interesting of all, monks still live here, conducting traditional masses, providing hospitality and offering regular tours of the grounds and museum.

During a trip to Corfu, you must take the time to visit one of the village churches as each location has its own captivating charm. Village churches are mostly placed in the village centre with the village square in front flanked by Kafenions. This is the traditional local gathering place and is also where many festivals are held.

Don’t just pass by. Pop in a Kafenion for a Greek coffee or a tsitsibyra (the tasty Corfiot ginger ale), watch and chat with the locals. You will love it!

Planning a trip to Corfu? Contact Corfu Sunspots, the whl.travel local connection (one of the best whl.travel local experts of 2011), for all expert advice about travel in Corfu, including accommodation, tours, activities and more.

Their practice in experiential and mindful travel and their locals’ knack for identifying, explaining and sustaining the distinctive qualities of a place make them the perfect go-to people for travellers looking for unique ways to experience a destination. But sometimes, when travellers prepare to hit the road, they’re not choosy about where they want to go: they’re actively looking only for the best of the best – the best experiences in the best destinations based on information from the best travel experts.

To facilitate that process, whl.travel has announced the winners of its 2011 internal competitive performance review. Based on their work in 2011, four tour operators – one from each of four broad geographical areas – have been singled out as models for a set of whl.travel standards critical to the operation of their own businesses but also fundamental to the success of the global network. Assessment criteria included response times and customer service, maintaining an active social media presence and keeping destination Web portals up to date.

The whl.travel local partner in Malawi: The Responsible Safari Company (left to right: Chimwemwe Siyabu, Kate Webb, Dom Webb, Andrew Kayuni). Photo courtesy of The Responsible Safari Company

Malawi Triumphs in Africa

In Africa, whl.travel is anchored in about 40 destinations across 20 countries. Taking honors on this continent was the Responsible Safari Company, the whl.travel local connection for Malawi. Apart from demonstrating a strong commitment to community development through sustainable tourism initiatives, they have proven that they are serious about client services.

The whl.travel local connection in Boracay, Philippines: Go Discover Travels (left to right: Kristiana Jorjah Espiritu, Trudy Allen and Chaddy Cocjin; not pictured: Helen Atanacio and John Maclang). Photo courtesy of Go Discover Travels

The Philippines Shine in Asia and the Pacific

The whl.travel local partners in Nepal, the Philippines and northeast India stood out from the mix of more than 70 destinations in 26 countries in Asia and Oceania; however, it was the Philippines’ Go Discover Travels, one of the first partners to join the whl.travel network, that came out on top for their whl.travel Boracay Travel website. They also manage portals in the Philippines for Cebu, Palawan and Manila.

The whl.travel local expert in Corfu, Greece: Corfu Sunspots Travel (right to left: Sandra Broedner and Chrysa Tsakalakou; Andronikos Moutos not pictured). Photo courtesy of Corfu Sunspots Travel

Corfu Takes the Limelight in Europe and the Middle East

Corfu Sunspots Travel Ltd, the whl.travel local expert in Corfu, Greece, ranked above approximately 40 other destinations in about 20 countries in Europe and the Middle East. What started as a small family-run business back in 1986 has blossomed into one of Corfu‘s largest, most reputable and successful agencies.

The whl.travel local partner in Santa Marta, Colombia: Las Pleyades (Fabiola Duerig and Oliver Blanco). Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades

Colombia Conquers in the Americas

The whl.travel local connection in Santa Marta, Colombia, was crowned the winner in the Americas, where there are about 50 whl.travel destinations in 15 countries in Latin America and the Caribbean. The site for Santa Marta is owned and operated by Las Pleyades, a small company that is a big player when it comes to developing social and environmental travel.

“While every network is only as strong as its weakest link, it’s also as ambitious as its strongest,” commented Rob Shortland, CEO of whl.travel. “whl.travel relies on each local operator to help build and develop our shared global brand. If we want travellers to support local companies then it’s essential that their service standards compete with, if not exceed, that of the large global powerhouses. Add in a large dollop of local knowledge and we’re tough to beat.”

Screenshot of the Bahamas page on Gunyah.com, the website shortlisted by the Caribbean Web Awards 2012

An Award for Quality Websites

Unlike most travel awards, the Caribbean Web Awards 2012 focused on the websites that represent the travel companies, not on the travel companies themselves. As stated on the Caribbean Web Awards 2012 website, special attention was given to best practices in online marketing with an eye toward recognizing websites with excellent graphic communication, superb online copy and salesmanship, and laudable examples of strategies and techniques for enhanced site conversion.

Through its recently launched online presence, designed with all of this in mind, Gunyah dishes up memorable short-break package holidays and vacations managed by a dedicated network of passionate people all around the world. With locals in every destination and a clear responsible travel vision, Gunyah is more in tune with what makes a truly authentic local travel experience.

“We wanted to convey the authenticity and inspiration of our short breaks from the moment users started researching their trips, something that combined the spontaneity of independent travel with the comfort of a package holiday,” commented Luke Ford, CEO of Gunyah, about the unique look and feel of Gunyah.com. “The experience begins from the moment they start corresponding with our local operators. We wanted the navigation functionality to be simple and so it’s search by destination, but we also wanted to include a search by experiences for those looking for, for example, diving or a cultural break. We were thrilled to have been shortlisted.”

A screenshot of one of the packages available in the Bahamas on the Gunyah.com website

A Work in Progress

At the present time, Gunyah lists 170 short-break package holidays in 46 countries with an additional 600 contracted or under construction. Gunyah is working with 83 local partners in a total of 78 countries, including developed markets in North America, Europe and Australia, and emerging-market economies across Africa, Asia, South America and elsewhere.

The short breaks – all of which consist of carefully selected accommodation, tours and activities – average four to six days in duration, but can also extend to 12 days. Regardless of length, Gunyah’s goal is to evoke an authentic experience through each package by connecting travelers to the people, communities, food and culture of each destination.

“We are only at the early stages with product development in the Caribbean, but this attention from the Caribbean Web Awards provides us with even more motivation to include more fascinating destinations in the region,” added Ford. “We have some amazing experiences in San Salvador, Bahamas, with diving, fishing, nature and eco walks, history and adventure, something for everyone! Our local partners in the Bahamas deserve credit for all of their hard work developing such unique experiences.”

The kind of idyllic setting found on of the many islands that make up the Bahamas

The Winning Announcement

The TravelMole Caribbean Web Award winners were announced on the eve of the Caribbean Marketplace held in Nassau, Paradise Island, Bahamas. In their second year, the awards were run by the Caribbean Hotel and Tourism Association in association with TravelMole, one of the largest online travel trade communities in the world, and LeadGenerators, the UK’s specialist online marketing agency for the travel industry.

The awards were presented by TravelMole’s Graham McKenzie, who praised the shortlisted websites but called for a stronger focus on online marketing within the Caribbean: “With the obvious exception of the shortlisted sites, the general standard of nominations were very poor and for the benefit of all really needs to improve. The importance of a good online presence for all tourism businesses cannot be overstated and at this time many do not make the most of the opportunities presented.”

Phnom Penh demands your attention from the moment you arrive. Vibrant, exciting and utterly unpredictable are just a few words to describe Cambodia’s capital. It’s a city of stark contrasts: slick SUVs share the road with old-world cyclos; visitors can relax in a posh cafe and think they are in Paris, or join the locals at a pop-up stall selling fried noodles; the memorial at the Killing Fields is heart wrenching, while the Temple of the Emerald Buddha will lift the spirit.

The self-sufficiency of vendors in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is an amazing sight: they carry everything with them, even mini-kitchens. Here a man cooks hard-boiled eggs on a coal brazier. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Just when you thought you’ve got the hang of the city, though, it’ll surprise you with glimpse of something fascinating and unexpected. One wrong turn on a walk and you may find yourself a guest of honour in a Khmer wedding!

Yet if the stimuli ever become too much (and it will happen), simply head to Sisowath Quay, the grand boulevard along the river. The Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, which merge at Phnom Penh, are intrinsic to life and livelihood in Cambodia, so naturally activity in Phnom Penh gravitates to their banks. From your spot in a riverside cafe, bar or restaurant, unwind and watch as the city hustles on by.

Day Trips

A trip to Phnom Penh wouldn’t be complete without a boat ride on the Mekong River at sunset. Slipping away from the shore, one is blessed with the quiet that eludes the city’s relentlessly busy streets. Watch fishermen haul in a catch and maybe visit a village of silk weavers to learn about the fascinating process.

The memorial stupa at the Killing Fields outside Phnom Penh is a startling but important reminder of Cambodia's past. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

A trip to the Killing Fields, now known as the Cheoung Ek Memorial, is an important, eye-opening lesson on the Cambodian Genocide and Phnom Penh’s past. From 1975 to 1979, 1.7 million people perished at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. A Buddhist stupa containing the bones and skulls uncovered from mass graves is a place to reflect on Cambodia’s sorrowful history.

A less sobering alternative is to dine, shop and get pampered for a good cause. Daughters of Cambodia is a nongovernmental organization that trains, employs and empowers victims of sex trafficking in Cambodia. Their Sugar ’n Spice cafe serves lunch (salads, sandwiches), as well as tasty baked goods. The centre is also a spa and a shop selling handmade products.

Shopping

If you’re on the hunt for designer and brand-name clothes at bargain prices, the Russian Market is the place to shop in Phnom Penh. Since there are numerous garment factories in Cambodia, if an item doesn’t meet quality standards or a designer’s specifications, it somehow ends up here. The Russian Market also teems with other items ranging from tasteful to wondrously tacky. This is the best place to pick up good quality, inexpensive silk.

The Central Market (Psar Thmey) of Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is well worth the visit for the building's stunning art deco architecture. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Handmade, high-quality products can be found at boutique stores such as Artisans Angkor and Couleurs D’Asie, while Bodia Nature sells 100-percent-natural bath and aromatherapy products made using locally grown ingredients. The herbal ginger balm is good on sore muscles after a long day of sightseeing. There is a shop riverside at #10, St. 178 and a small stand within the Russian Market.

Mekong Quilts is a non-profit group that provides sustainable employment to women from poor rural regions of Cambodia. The hand-sewn quilts and other handicrafts, from laptop covers to yoga bags, are beautifully made and inexpensive. Shop employees are pros at packaging up large quilts tightly but if you still don’t have room in your luggage, international shipping is available at #49, St. 240.

Restaurants

The eating in Phnom Penh is outstanding. The thriving expat community in the capital city means there’s every sort of international cuisine available, with prices ranging from a worrisome “Why is this so cheap?” to a jaw-dropping “Why is this so expensive?” Generally speaking though, there is good value for meals.

One of the many treats of time spent in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is a tasty and fresh green-mango salad. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

You can test your stomach’s mettle with street eats: Hot woks dish up stir-fried noodles (mee cha), noodle-soup stands dot every corner, meat kebabs sizzle on grills and whole pigs slow-roast over red-hot coals.

Rice, fish and coconut milk are staples in Cambodian cuisine and Amok trey, the signature dish of Cambodia, uses all three ingredients. Fish coated with coconut milk is steamed or baked in banana leaves, then served with rice. It is delicious, light and fragrant. Try your own hand at Khmer cuisine with a Phnom Penh cooking class.

Cafes and restaurants line Sisowath Quay (riverside) but travellers should make an effort to explore the excellent eateries throughout the city.

Local Treats

Local Angkor beer is everywhere – fortunately it’s also good and cheap.

Tired of ubiquitous Angkor Beer? The German-owned Kingdom microbrewery offers tours and tastings of their flavourful pilsner at their factory in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

The Seeing Hands Massage Centre is a great place to get a no-nonsense massage. Opened in 1995, it now employs 22 blind massage therapists with professional training. In a country with no social assistance, this centre gives those with a disability a sustainable livelihood and skills they can pass on to others. For US$7 you get a one-hour shiatsu massage and you’re contributing to a good business; it’s win-win. The centre can be found at 12E St. #13, across from the large post office near Wat Phnom.

Instead of walking or taking a tuk-tuk to get around, why not hire a cyclo? Slow down and see Phnom Penh in a whole different way.

Night Out

A night out in Phnom Penh starts early, with generous happy hours kicking things off – sometimes at an unsavoury hour. In the sultry afternoon heat, begin on the patio of one of the many riverside bars, cooling off with a cold drink and, if you’re lucky, a breeze off the water.

Happy hours indeed! The perks of time spent in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

The Foreign Correspondents’ Club (FCC) is one such riverside spot. The FCC is located on the second floor of a colonial-era building, away from the street-level hustle of touts and tuk-tuks. It was once a popular watering hole for diplomats and journalists. While there aren’t many shady deals and intrigue going on these days, the FCC still retains the historic charm of its past. The nibbles on the menu are also a treat.

Once upon a time, the nightclub Heart of Darkness would have capped a wild night out. Unfortunately, it now has an unsavoury reputation, with security and crime an issue. Today, expats favour Pontoon.

This beautiful section of the Italian Riviera is known for its eponymous Cinque Terre or ‘Five Lands’ – five picturesque villages and the surrounding carefully-terraced farmland that have been insulated from outside influences for generations. This spectacular territory was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, but tourism has proven to be something of a poisoned chalice. The sudden inflow of visitors has placed major strain on the area’s infrastructure and the desire to capitalise has seen tension between developers and local residents grow.

It was the problems that these growing pains posed for the region that the Vendemmia documentary team set out to document when filming began in 2008. Then, unexpectedly, after the team wrapped up their filming in late 2010, a sudden series of events struck the area.

A scandal broke, revealing evidence of widespread political corruption, compounding the problems already facing Cinque Terre. Land deals and development projects that posed a threat to the area’s outstanding natural beauty and traditional ways of life were under way.

Local residents, already facing the challenge of coping with a booming tourist industry that threatened to destroy their livelihoods, were outraged at the extent to which the land which they called home was being exploited.

Further disaster came in the form of severe rainfall in October 2011. The extreme weather caused widespread flooding and mudslides, resulting in several deaths and major damage to two of Cinque Terre’s villages, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare.

Knowing that they could not let these new problems go undocumented and compelled by their love of the region and its people, Weller and Boeckle realised that they would have to revisit major sections of their film if it was to achieve its objective of bringing awareness and support to Cinque Terre.

In order to finance the project, the team at Harvest Films Productions have opted to use kickstarter.com to raise the necessary funds. With nine days still to run, the project has already secured its ‘bare-bones’ funding package of $2,600, but additional support will contribute greatly to their ability to deliver an excellent and effective product.

We wish Weller, Boeckle and their team all the best for the project and join them in spreading the message about the importance of sustainability in tourism. The situation in Cinque Terre could apply to any number of other destinations.

Let’s not destroy what we’re trying to love.

If you want to see great apes in the wild, Sumatra’s rainforest is one of the most accessible places to do just that. Seeing orangutans in the wild, along with silver Thomas leaf monkeys, pig-tailed macaques, and a diverse range of birds like hornbills, will leave you with a renewed appreciation for the beauty and ingenuity of other species. However, you need to know how to visit them responsibly or you could introduce illnesses, since they share over 97 percent of our DNA. Less than 7,000 Sumatran orangutans live in the wild, and they’re an essential part of the rainforest ecosystem, helping seeds to germinate and even pruning the canopy.

Orangutan in Gunung Leuser, Sumatra. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society

The Gunung Leuser National Park is part of the Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an excellent spot for ape-watching and rainforest trekking. The Orangutan Information Centre (OIC), a local, grassroots nongovernmental organization, is working with a local guides association to certify guides in the popular destination of Bukit Lawang.

The OIC is an excellent source of information, and many of the guides are extremely knowledgeable and conscientious. However, because of the competition for visitors and tips, some guides do engage in unscrupulous practices like luring orangutans over with fruit, leaving fruit peels on the ground, or even letting visitors hug orangutans. Before you go into the forest, you’ll watch a short film on rainforest etiquette at the visitors’ center. Pay attention, and take responsibility for your own behavior. Better yet, download a copy of the park guidebook from the OIC website to prepare for your trip.

OIC Director Panut Hadisiswoyo, in Bukit Lawang, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society

In Bukit Lawang, you’ll have the chance to see orangutans close up, either at the feeding platform or slightly further into the rainforest. These orangutans have returned to the wild after a life in captivity. Taken from the wild by poachers at a young age, they are learning to live in the forest again after a rigorous rehabilitation process. They grow adept at building nests to sleep and lounge in, climbing nimbly through the canopy, and raising the next generation of wild orangutans. Like humans, they don’t know how to live in the wild by instinct alone. In the wild, they might spend eight years with their mother, learning how to live in the jungle. Learning these skills as adults takes an incredible amount of intelligence, patience, and perseverance, just as it would for a human.

Deeper in the jungle, you’ll likely see wild orangutans from afar. You’ll have the option to take a one-day, overnight, or multiday trek. Local guides are quite flexible in making arrangements. If planning a longer trek, talk with the staff at the visitors’ center to request a knowledgeable, conscientious guide.

For a quieter experience, visit the farther-flung village of Ketambe, about 8 hours by van from the main city of Medan. Staying in this little village bedecked with flowers and fruit trees will let you experience a less-trafficked part of the Gunung Leuser National Park, or “Leuser.” You’ll easily arrange van transportation on arrival; just ask your hotel staff for details. Call ahead to book a room in Ketambe. The Friendship Guesthouse offers rustic one-room bungalows with bathrooms for around U.S. $6 per night, and tasty curries for around $2. The welcoming staff will connect you with a local guide as well.

As in Bukit Lawang, take responsibility for your own behavior. The orangutans around Ketambe are wild, meaning they’ll keep their distance. One was said to have thrown a beehive at visitors, I was told, in what I felt sure was a cautionary tale. Talk about tool use, I thought.

Unfortunately, Leuser is threatened by the oil palm industry and other forms of encroachment, like much of Indonesia’s rainforests. In June 2011, it was placed on the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger for this reason. While there, I volunteered at a restoration site in the district of Langkat, North Sumatra. The OIC had reclaimed this illegally logged and farmed section of national forest in 2007. Since then, the all-local staff had been working to bring the rainforest back to life.

The old “hantu” – what we jokingly called the dead oil palms – still stood menacingly in some parts of the forest, gray-white fronds draping around their rotting trunks like a veil. But the vibrant growth of young rainforest trees was enveloping them, weaving them into the ecosystem as life carried on.

Restorasi house and plantation, Sumatra, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society.

One of the field assistants, Darjo, had carefully counted the bird species in the area – he’d spotted 83 so far. While collecting saplings in the deeper forest, the staff showed me huge elephant tracks. Very near the small house where we stayed, we saw the print of the rare golden cat.

Recently, after I’d arrived back in the States, the staff sent me an excited message: Orangutans were living at the site! They’d observed a male and pregnant female in the trees. The forest would take centuries, perhaps longer, to gain back the richness of the diversity it once had, but in the meantime, life will continue to thrive – as long as we let it.

More Information

Unesco World Heritage Centre: Danger listing for Indonesia’s Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra
Orangutan Information Centre: Project Reports
Ketambe: The Friendship Guesthouse & Restaurant
Orangutan Information Centre: OIC Restoration Site Performance Report, 2010-2011

Melanie Jae Martin writes about social/environmental issues and travel in the U.S. and abroad. To read more of her work, please visit The Story Grove.

The famous Arch and Bay of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, are a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site. Locals call the arch the Window to the Pacific Ocean

No longer a secret, if indeed it ever was, Los Cabos has grown in stature and renown as a holiday destination. Beach bums love the white sand and secluded coves, big-game fishermen idle all day on the water, and divers and snorkelers ogle the teeming marine life. There is, of course, plenty more to see and do in Los Cabos, some of it manmade, a lot of it cultural and delicious, but most of it involving nature in splendid abundance.

Finding Your Way the Right Way

With sights and population centres spread across the peninsula from Cabo San Lucas in the south to La Paz, the state capital, 160 kilometres (100 miles) to the north, and even Los Cabos International Airport 45 kilometres (28 miles) from central Cabo San Lucas, ground transportation is a vital consideration when in the area.

But while there is a solid assortment of transfer services, the eco-friendly qualities of only one of them really sets it apart. In the midst of the natural exuberance of Los Cabos, only the Green Path Transfers local partner provides a ground transportation service that is committed to going green.

Launched in March of 2011, Green Path Transfers is the global, environmentally and socially responsible transport service with a 100-percent carbon-offset policy. And its local partner in Los Cabos is Gray Line Los Cabos.

On the Green Path

Gray Line Los Cabos was launched in 2002 and immediately started offering airport and intercity transfers around Los Cabos in addition to destination management services such as the sightseeing tours and all types of adventure and group experiences.

Gray Line Los Cabos has two Eurovans like the one above. They carry eight passengers and are frequently used on the airport run in Los Cabos, Mexico

For its transportation purposes, the company currently manages two types of vehicles: Eurovans with an eight-passenger capacity and VW Crafters that can comfortably sit 16 passengers. They are the backbone of the famously punctual Gray Line Los Cabos airport meet-and-greet service available 365 days a year and managed by bilingual staff (English and Spanish).

These vehicles run on diesel, reports Karem Matamoros, a sales executive with Gray Line Los Cabos. In keeping with Green Path Transfers sustainable travel values, this means “they emit less carbon dioxide as it’s more fuel efficient,” she adds, but then admits that it’s only a first step until better solutions come along. “In Mexico, hybrids and other alternative vehicles are not popular yet and not many companies manufacture them. The ones that do exist are only compact cars.”

Fortunately, through Green Path Transfers, Gray Line Los Cabos can count on the policy of offsetting 100 percent of carbon emissions. “For now, I am afraid the only way we can contribute is through the carbon offset,” says Matamoros. “We hopes that the car companies start producing options more suitable for us to change our entire fleet.”

Trust a Local Native

In addition to competitively priced earth-conscious transfers, Gray Line Los Cabos promises comfortable recent-model vehicles, insurance and certified bilingual drivers who have completed training through a National-Tourism-Board-sponsored program called moderniza certification. The drivers also take a Red Cross class in first aid.

The main square of San Jose del Cabo, Mexico

These drivers are mines of information and can really bring to life the Los Cabos area in a way only possible through locals. In Cabos San Lucas, they can take you to Medano Beach, a must-see location where people can satisfy all their water-activities desires. In the nearby town of San José del Cabo, the drivers can point out the Art District, where historic and picturesque buildings display the work of creative talents, and the main square is home to an 18th-century Mission.

In neighbouring Todos Santos, the drivers can explain why the National Tourism Board has declared it a ‘Magic Town,’ a title conferred on places that preserve their culture and architecture. Todos Santos is full of art galleries, beautiful old buildings and cosy traditional restaurants. Further away, La Paz, the capital of the state, is a tranquil city with a beautiful Malecón that still holds the Old Baja atmosphere.

Whatever the path taken, “Gray Line Los Cabos brings to Green Path Transfers its transportation services operated by locals who really know Los Cabos and give their customers the best local approach, always ruled by the service standards of the Gray Line family,” adds Matamoros. She concludes: “In return, from Green Path Transfers, we hope to reach visitors who are coming to Los Cabos looking for a safe and affordable way to travel using a responsible company that provides quality transportation service in Los Cabos.”

To learn more about Green Path Transfers and how to be part of carbon-neutral travel arrangements that emphasise responsible actions in a growing number of destinations around the globe, visit www.GreenPathTransfers.com.

Founded toward the end of the 17th century, Ouro Preto became home to a number of very rich Portuguese colonials as a result of the Brazilian Gold Rush. The fortunes of the town went from strength to strength as more and more gold was pulled from the earth by the area’s mines.

Significant investment was made into improving the town, which grew over time to become a prosperous and beautiful city. Its popularity and importance saw the construction of a large number of lovingly designed buildings in the years that followed, including several opulent churches and a dedicated mining school.

While the city’s economic and political importance waned in the centuries that followed – it lost its position as state capital of Minas Gerais shortly before the turn of the 20th century – it has lost none of its beauty. As such, its Old Town was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980.

Volunteering abroad, also known as voluntourism, is on fire. More and more, all kinds of people are looking for travel experiences where they can serve the under-served, globally. Who can disagree with such noble intentions? In fact, voluntourism is often hailed as one of the most constructive forms of tourism out there.

Voluntourism Economics

Like anything new and fast-growing, voluntourism can go awry. Opportunistic travel companies commercialize what should be kept in the non-profit sector, charging voluntourists a hefty premium. NGOs use voluntourists as a fundraising mechanism, taking more advantage of their willingness to pay than their willingness to work. As voluntourism gains scale in certain destinations, it can even affect local labor markets in ways the voluntourists never imagine. Rightly so, skeptics have started blowing whistles and calling for best practices.

Two Sustainable Bolivia volunteers paint a flagpole at Atendi. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

The economics of voluntourism is a hot issue in the larger debate about voluntourism’s impacts. Where are voluntourist dollars going? How much stays with the coordinating organization, and how much enters the local economy in a meaningful way? If you’re thinking about volunteer travel, these are the kinds of questions that are worth asking. If you’re an organization that is coordinating volunteer tourists, these are the kind of questions that are important to answer. Transparency is key.

Volunteering with Sustainable Bolivia in Cochabamba

Sustainable Bolivia is a registered non-profit organization in Cochabamba, Bolivia’s third-largest city. Here, it partners with 28 local non-profit organizations to coordinate volunteer and internship opportunities for international students and professionals. The organizations span a number of fields of development: public health, the environment, education, human rights, and social services.

Volunteers choose which organization they would like to get involved with, depending on their experiences, educational background, and interests. With its diverse network of local non-profit organizations, Sustainable Bolivia is in a good position to match volunteer skills and resources with the places in and around Cochabamba that could use them the most.

Engineers who want to work on appropriate technology solutions find a good match with Energetica, which works on alternative energy sources in the rural communities of Bolivia. Doctors and health care professionals have a number of choices for applying their skills, like Atendi where they can work with kids with disabilities, or Centro de Salud Cerro Verde if their interest is in reproductive health. For creative types and performers, Sustainable Bolivia has an artist residency program and a partner organizations like Performing Life, which provides underprivileged youth with workshops to develop juggling and other circus show skills.

Screen shot of mini grant reporting on the Sustainable Bolivia website.

The Mini Grant Program at Sustainable Bolivia

In 2009, the administration of Sustainable Bolivia started thinking about how they could make volunteer impacts more transparent. They realized that volunteers were the ones who were working directly in the field, in close contact with local partner organizations. The volunteers could see firsthand the most pressing needs on site at their projects.

In February of that year, the innovative new mini grant system was introduced. It’s a system where volunteers can decide exactly how their money is used in the community, and Sustainable Bolivia has one more way to measure and report contribution its to parter organizations. How does it work? For each month that a volunteer works with Sustainable Bolivia, $75 goes toward a mini grant. So, a volunteer that stays for three months has $225 to use toward their volunteer project in the way they think is most appropriate.

In order to apply their mini grants, volunteers are required to fill out an application explaining their project plans and budget. Then, once it has been approved, the volunteer is also required to submit receipts. This process allows for an organization-level reporting system on how volunteer money is being spent.

In keeping with the transparency that Sustainable Bolivia values, it publishes all mini grant activity on its website. On this fascinating page, viewers can see what each volunteer has done with each local partner organization. You can see a short description of the project, the application form, and the receipts showing where the money was spent. More than an ingenious system that ensures transparency about volunteer funds, it’s an elegant composite portrait of the kinds of activities that volunteers can do at Sustainable Bolivia and what the organization is about.

Blogging and Hula Hoops

I applied to spend time at Sustainable Bolivia through their artist residency program, asking if online content creation counts as a form of art. They were happy to accept me as their resident writer. Once I arrived, I had a meeting with Michelle, the national director, about the best way to use my volunteer time. Their website blog had become a little neglected, she said. I loved the idea of helping bring it back to life. By the end of my three month stay, I had five new posts published on the blog.

Hula Hooping with Performing Life members in Cochabamba, Bolivia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

As my time there passed, I was looking for ways to apply my own mini grant funding. The mini grant program inspired me to close my laptop and get involved on the ground level. My first week there, I had seen a show put on by Performing Life, amazed by the talent of its kids in juggling, diabalos, and unicycles. Since I’m a circus hobbyist myself, I was especially impressed by 13-year-old Scarlet and her fire poi spinning skills. I wanted to learn from her. I noticed that the organization could use some hula hoops to make its circus equipment more complete, and I started planning a project for my mini grant resources.

With my mini grant money, I went to the massive La Cancha local market and bought everything needed to make high-quality, performance-level hula hoops. I found PVC tubing, connectors, duct tape, electrical tape, and even some shiny decorative tape to finish the hoops with color and flair. My mini grant funding went a long way in Bolivia. By the end of my time there, I had made 15 new hula hoops, which were a big hit with the Performance Life kids.

All the materials for hula hoop construction had only cost about $75. There was still more mini grant funding left. I wanted to donate it directly to Performing Life, but Michelle explained to me that it rolls over to the next volunteer working with Performing Life. In this way, they can keep things totally transparent and visible about how the funding is spent. It gave me another idea – maybe I’ll go back and be that next volunteer myself.

To apply for an internship or volunteer opportunity at Sustainable Bolivia, get in contact through the Sustainable Bolivia website.

The Mantazah Palace was originally built in 1892 and served as a summer residence for members of the Egyptian royalty. Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea in Alexandria, Egypt, it is surrounded on three sides by great walls and gardens. Photo courtesy of Senor Gogo

Over the centuries, Alexandria has ballooned in both size and importance, especially as a commercial centre of Egypt. Today it is an vital economic base that supports a flourishing tourism industry.

Alexandria hotels, of which there are many choices, promise great opportunities for relaxation, especially in light of the many summer resorts and sandy beaches. Fortunately, many of the best also combine five-star luxury with ecologically and socially responsible tourism. A stay at the Four Seasons Hotel in Alexandria, for example, will have you eating organic vegetables and fruits, many of which are locally grown in the hotel’s prided green spaces. Similarly a holiday at the Hilton Green Plaza Hotel, where all of the staff are Alexandria locals, will inspire you to participate in local sustainability by keeping the stunning beaches of Alexandria clean.

Recognised as the site of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Qaitbey Citadel was built by El Sultan al Ashrad Qaitbey in 1480. Perched on Pharos Island, just off the Alexandria mainland, the site was originally occupied by a lighthouse. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Shabayek

There are plenty of things to see and do in Alexandria, including taking in the ancient Roman architecture and the Qaitbey Fortress, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, that has occupied Pharos Island since 1480. Of course, no holiday in Alexandria would be complete without a tour to the iconic Pyramids of Giza, which are easily accessible from the Alexandria port.

One great way to experience the depth of Alexandria’s 18-century history is with a full-day Alexandria tour that takes in highlights like the Roman ruins, the Alexandria Library and the Mantazah Palace. For a more contemporary look at Alexandria, a tour to Alamein, the site of the famous World War II battle, is a must.

The Corniche is a coastal highway in Alexandria, Egypt, linking the Citadel of Qaitbey with the Mantazah Palace. Constructed in 1870, the Corniche runs for 10 miles and offers great views of the Mediterranean Sea. Photo courtesy of Yassin Zahran

Tourism expert and owner of WHL Egypt, Sherif Abd Elwahab is thrilled that his team of Alexandria locals is now available to assist in planning a fun and responsible Alexandria holiday.

“We at WHL Egypt are committed to promoting sustainable tourism and to using the tourism industry as a vehicle for protecting Egypt’s great historical sites,” said Elwahab. “We prefer to partner with Alexandria hotels that take responsible actions toward the community and develop environmental consciousness, using the least amount of non-renewable resources as possible.”

The Old Town Alexandria, Egypt, is filled with markets and vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, nuts, herbs and spices. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Heather Cowper

Alexandria joins the growing list of whl.travel destinations in Egypt, including Cairo, Sharm el Sheikh, Aswan and Luxor, Safaga, Ein Sokhna and Port Said.

Good friends take a day trip to Pirenopolis, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Renan Rigo

You see, Goiania sits on the Cerrado, the vast tropical savannah that is one of the biggest and most diverse of Brazil’s ecosystems. And not far from Goiania lies the special jewel of the Cerrado: the historic city of Pirenópolis. It’s the right place to go when you want to escape the hectic big city and it was the destination we had chosen for a brief holiday among friends.

A Stroll Through the Centre

We left Goiania early, so that it would still be morning when we arrived at Pirenópolis. The roads had been very quiet as we moved away from the city; the presence of the Cerrado grew stronger until we got to Pirenópolis at the foot of the Serra dos Pirineus (Pirineus Mountains).

On the road to Pirenopolis (barely visible in the distance) and the surrounding Pirineus Mountains, twisted trees are typical of the Cerrado in Brazil. Photo courtesy of Renan Rigo

We parked our car, so that we could walk to and through the historic town centre. Pleasant ladies immortalised as statues above the wooden windows of colonial houses watched passersby as we made our way to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosario (Church of Our Lady of the Rosary), a traditional architectural landmark in Pirenópolis that hosts folk religious festivals such as the world-famous Festa do Divino Espírito Santo (Divine Spirit Festival). The street was full of cheap craft shops being admired by a few people sporting hippie-style clothing. The easy rhythm of the town made minutes pass quite slowly.

The famous Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosario (Church of Our Lady of the Rosary) is one of the most beautiful places in Pirenopolis, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Renan Rigo

For visitors like us from the capital of the state, the surroundings provided many opportunities for us to renew our Facebook photo galleries, and we began snapping pictures of the church, the colourful colonial houses and even the ‘Mascarados.’ These masked characters, typical of the local folklore, are often seen during the Cavalhadas festival, which reenacts the epic victory in the Middle Ages of Charlemagne over the Moors.

Next we enjoyed a typical lunch in one of the local restaurants, where you can savour foods like galinhada, one of my favourite dishes of rice and chicken prepared with saffron in a special way; or feijão tropeiro, a full-bodied bean stew made with flour, sausage and bacon. Delicious!

Tourists enjoying the very cold waters of the Cachoeira do Abade (Abbot Waterfall) outside the city of Pirenopolis, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Renan Rigo

The Waterfalls of the Highlands

After a quick rest, we went off again, choosing as our destination one of the dozens of spectacular waterfalls embedded in the surrounding Brazilian Central Plateau.

We chose the Cachoeira do Abade (Abbot Waterfall), which was a little far from the city, yet our efforts were rewarded since contact with nature is all part of the charm. The Cerrado’s twisted native trees and exotic flowers filled small canyons along the route to the lush little waterfall. Once arrived, we found only a few tourists and water so cold that it made even the sea where the Titanic sank feel warm. OK, it wasn’t so extreme, but the waterfall is really cool! Here we enjoyed time just to rest and think things over.

To replenish our energies, we had bought some homemade chocolate-chip cookies in the tourist office near the waterfall – the perfect boost with which to return to the city. After another walk in the town centre, we stopped for a cold beer at an outdoor café where we could enjoy this typical late afternoon. The cobblestone street was crowded with tables, chairs and tourists. Some boys with scary masks reminiscent of the masked bullies commonly seen during Cavalhadas were asking visitors for money.

We ended with a late snack of empadão goiano, a regional delicacy similar to a salt pie filled with meats and spices.

As our plan had been to escape the frantic pace of the capital, we headed back to Goiania feeling rejuvenated, even after a such short time. Pirenópolis is such an amazing place! It truly has a different energy, which inspired the good memories in this story!

Although he had planned to inherit the book store owned by his dad, Renan Rigo graduated with a degree in journalism and began writing about anything and everything. His favourite stories are those where he plunges headlong into his subject. Travelling, in this sense, is inspirational and he enjoys writing about his experiences on the road. Rigo is a regular contributor to the pocketvillage blog series called Inside-Out Latin America.