Jumber Lezhava is a bicycle world traveller, a Guinness World Records holder and a UNESCO World Sportsman and Citizen

This unprecedented and challenging trip is led by none other than Jumber Lezhava, a bicycle world traveller, multiple Guinness World Record holder and UNESCO World Sportsman and Citizen. Lezhava has put together an ideal route for visiting cyclists. Time on tough roads is combined with visits to cultural and historic sites, and opportunities to meet the locals in isolated, mountainous villages.

The idea of this taxing but stimulating tour came from Mamuka Burduli, Director of Adventure Club Jomardi, the whl.travel local connection in Tbilisi. “It is our pleasure that the tour has such a prominent leader as Mr Jumber Lezhava. We visit the most beautiful areas of Georgia and experience adventure at the same time.”

“The tour is an amazing initiative,” says Lezhava. “The positive side effects of such tours are more plentiful than the direct effects: they raise productivity and self-awareness in people and, of course, advocate a healthy lifestyle. During the bicycle race from Gudauri to Tbilisi in May 2010, for example, many youngsters were able to overcome difficulties. Our new itinerary can be compared to world races in its level of difficulty.”

A map of the 12-day bike route through Georgia's high passes

From the Valley to the Northern Mountains

The route begins in the Kakheti Region, cradle of Georgian wine. It moves move Tbilisi, the country’s capital city, to the Tsiv-Gombori Mountain Range (part of Greater Caucasus Mountain Range) in the southeast of the region and then on to the Alazani Valley, amidst the neatly cultivated vines and valleys around Telavi.

Turning to the north, the trip heads up toward the Tusheti Historic Area Historic Area. Here, the roads becomes more of a trial, especially the passage from Alvani to Omalo, which meanders through steep mountains, diverse climates and landscapes. The Abano Pass (2850m) is the highest point of the passage; breathtaking views open up above the clouds. Deep within Tusheti, well-preserved medieval fortresses and towers await in the villages of Omalo and Dartlo.

Across the Northern Mountains

While these isolated communities – rich in monument and cradled by mountain – often leave their beholders speechless, there’s still much more to behold to the west and further within Khevsureti Province, reached via Girevi and the Atsunda Pass (3400m).

In Shatili, residential buildings are connected to the towers and constitute a chain of fortifications. They belong to the medieval and early modern periods of Georgia.

The Khevsuretian villages of Ardoti and Mutso are of special interest for their well-preserved medieval dwellings. Equally as impressive are the ancient towers of historic highland Shatili, proudly overlooking the northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus. The backdrop of the Arghuni Gorge makes the site all the more stunning.

Back Down into the Valleys and Gorges

From Shatili, the bikers pedal south, up and over the Datvijvari Pass (2677m), beautifully carpeted with alpine meadows that give way to other picturesque sites: the Aragvi Gorge and Zhinvali Reservoir. After the stern mountains of Tusheti and Khevsureti, the sky-blue waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir have a tranquillizing effect.

The next challenge is the Sabadura Pass, from which the road loses elevation, paralleling the Mtkvari River through the beautiful Sabadura Forest and all the way to the ancient capital of Mtskheta, which has been declared a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site. Noteworthy Mtskheta landmarks include Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery, the latter at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

Mutso Village in Georgia's Khevsureti Province has preserved medieval dwellings and ancient buildings

From Mtskheta, the route passes through Dzegvi village and Gori to the Dzama Valley and then through the Gujareti Gorge to Timotesubani in Borjomi Gorge, where the nature is greener and less rugged.

Up to the Mountains of the South

It’s time to climb again. Via Mitarbi, bikers push up to the Bakuriani ski resort (1700m), an area that boasts mineral springs and coniferous forests with extraordinary biodiversity.

There’s still more uphill to go. From Bakuriani, the tour heads over the Tskhratskaro Pass (2454m), reaching Akhalkalaki in south-central Georgia for a visit to the 12th-century Vardzia Cave City. Vardzia has rock-hewn parlours, chapels, kitchens and refectories and offers stunning views of the Mtkvari.

Ahead lies another challenging pass; biking through Aspindza, Akhaltsikhe and Adigeni, cyclists reach the Goderdzi Pass (2025m). The breathtaking views make the difficult road well worth tackling.

Mamuka Burduli, Director of Adventure Club Jomardi, bikes in the Kakheti Region of Georgia

Coasting Down to the Coast

The route ends in the beautiful coastal city of Batumi, where bikers triumphantly kick back in the soothing seaside breezes, balm to the soul after the rocky mountains and stern fortresses of the higher elevations. Of course, in Batumi there is one more fortress waiting: the Gonio.

There, successful finishers might agree with Jumber Lezhava, who has travelled by bike in 238 countries and still feels so strongly about the quality of this tour. “Looking back, the highest pass I have crossed was at 4500m elevation, while going from La Paz to Chile,” reflects Lezhava. “I have crossed some 18 to 20 passes of 4000m high. When you go biking in Georgia, you notice that our roads are narrower than the ones you find elsewhere in the world. There are many narrow lanes and short distances here so, therefore, the nature is more beautiful and diverse, although the infrastructure is poor. But as the healthy lifestyle is actively being introduced in Georgia, special roads for bikers are being opened: we have one such a road in Batumi. This, together with some tendencies of working according to ecological norms, helps [us to advocate] biking as an important [foundation for a] healthy lifestyle.”

Contact Adventure Club Jomardi, your whl.travel local connection in Tibilisi and the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia for more about adventure travel in Georgia, not to mention accommodation, tours, activities and local hints about the country.

Tbilisi, Georgia

The Georgian city of Tbilisi, one of Eurasia’s most important social, cultural and industrial centres, is located in the Southern Caucasus Mountains. Its many nationalities and religions live peacefully side by side, creating a mix of histories, cultures, architectures, local practices and cuisines that is instantly appealing.

The Old Tbilisi district of Tbilisi, Georgia, is famed for its Sulphur Baths, traditional houses with wooden balconies and the Narikala Fortress towering over it

Ia Kverghelidze, your whl.travel local connection in Tbilisi, here lifts the lid on her hometown, showcasing its best attributes and highlighting the clues that connect modern Tbilisi with its well-preserved past.

Day Trip

Head for the Old Tbilisi district – a must-see! Start with a trip to the Sulphur Baths (Abanotubani), which Tbilisi was named after back in the fifth century. Hike over to the Narikala Fortress and enjoy the views of Tbilisi from different vantage points. From here you can look directly onto Tbilisi Holy Trinity Cathedral, the largest cathedral in the Caucasus.

The Old Tbilisi area is particularly special in the way it unites religions in one area. Georgian Orthodox and Armenian Gregorian churches, as well as Turkish mosques can all be found not far from the Sulphur Baths. Walk down cobbled Leselidze Street and you will come across the Jewish Synagogue; down another small lane is the colourful Roman Catholic Church. Other interesting holy sites are the Metekhi Church with its statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (founder of Tbilisi) and Sioni Cathedral.

While visiting the area, do not forget to check out the narrow streets lined with 19th-century wooden houses. The wooden balconies are colourful and ornately carved and the façades have been preserved in their original state. In old times, several families would live together in one house; this spirit of camaraderie and close-knit sense of community continues today.

If you are interested in art, Shardeni Street in Old Tbilisi offers some interesting galleries, as well as cosy and fashionable cafés. Bustling Rustaveli Avenue also has a variety of art galleries and cafés. A Tbilisi city tour can organise a four-hour sightseeing trip which takes in the most interesting sights of the city.

Only in the Old Tbilisi area of Tbilisi, Georgia, will one find the unique Sulphur Baths, a Turkish Mosque and beautiful 19th-century house

During hot summer days, a short getaway to the Tbilisi Botanical Garden, Mtatsminda Park and Turquoise Pond can be refreshing. If you go to Turquoise Pond, be sure to visit the Tbilisi Ethnographical Museum, an open-air museum that displays houses from different parts of Georgia, a small country whose regions nevertheless differ greatly.

For more handy information on places to see in Tbilisi, see our Tbilisi Destination Guide.

Shopping

When in Tbilisi, visitors will undoubtedly hit the shops to buy souvenirs. For great local gifts, go to Dry Bridge Art Market, where some interesting artefacts can be found among the many handmade products. Additionally, the Gallery of Caucasian Carpets in Old Tbilisi is always worth a visit – a mysterious world in which each carpet has a story to tell! The Tbilisi shopping page contains useful information about shops in Tbilisi.

Restaurant

To get acquainted with the local cuisine, try some Tbilisi restaurants like the phenomenal Bread House, where you can watch how traditional Georgian bread is baked in a special clay pot called a ‘tone.’ You can even give it a try yourself! The restaurant is conveniently located in the Old Tbilisi area, not far from the Sulphur Baths, and is guaranteed to leave a long-lasting taste impression.

Other restaurants of note include In The Shadow of Metekhi (on Ketevan Tsamebuli Avenue) and Tsiskvili (on the right bank of the Mtkvari River). Both promise traditional Georgian meals, live music, and traditional Georgian songs and dances. For traditional Georgian meals delivered to your door, Shemoikhede Genatsvale (which literally means ‘have a look in, dear’), with branches throughout the city, is the best place for takeout.

At the Bread House restaurant of Tbilisi, Georgia, travellers watch how traditional bread is baked in a special clay vessel called a ‘tone,’ which can also be used to roast pork and chicken

Local Treats

Tbilisi’s best local treat is its natural sulphur springs. These geothermal springs have a tranquilising and healing effect and are located in Abanotubani in the Old Tbilisi area.

Delicious edible local specialties – the gems of Georgian cuisine – are khachapuri (cheesecake), khinkali (meat wrapped in dough), mtsvadi (barbecue) and hot tonis puri (bread baked in a clay pot). The main characteristics of Georgian cuisine, the tradition of the Georgian feast and traditional dishes can be seen on our restaurant page.

Night Out

If you enjoy popular music, go to Two Side Party-Club. Located in Bambis Rigi Street, in the Old Tbilisi area, the club’s live music performances include famous Georgian singers, as well as DJs and live bands. Its eclectic design will definitely catch your eye!

Near the Tbilisi Philharmonic Hall, stroll down Akhvlediani Street (formerly Perovskaya), where the Dublin Irish Pub and Buffalo Bills await you with American jazz-rock, English rock and European pop. If you are in the mood for a bit of singing yourself, try Tan Tsaige Art Café Shop in Kiacheli Street, which is famous for its karaoke parties. The name of the art café shop means ‘take it with you’ and they are true to their word – visitors can buy whatever takes their fancy!

If you are keen on clubbing, head under Baratashvili Bridge on the banks of the Mtkvari to Night Office, where laser shows and well-known DJs guarantee an unforgettable night of entertainment. Check our restaurants in Tbilisi page for more ideas.

For more information about Tbilisi, including accommodation, tours and activities, photos and lots more insider tips, contact your whl.travel local connection: Adventure Club Jomardi at www.travel-tbilisi.com.

Ushguli consists of four communities (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murqmeli), all of which have preserved Svan towers. Due to the abundance of these towers, the villages are often referred to as an ‘open-air museum’.

Usghuli and the surrounding mountainous Svaneti province are a must-see destination in Georgia. The region is made rich by its hospitable people, indigenous traditions and stunning landscapes. Svaneti also has its own remarkable cuisine, distinct from the other parts of Georgia. The Svans even have their own language and greet one another with the phrase Khoshalader (meaning ‘may victory be with you’).

Ushguli has a famous Lamaria Chapel and historical museum that, together with the Svan towers, shed light on the local lifestyle. During local festivities, one can also witness traditional songs and dances as part of the celebrations. While listening, one can feel the influence of the strict nature of a hard mountainous lifestyle.

Proximity to the glaciers and a location at high altitudes makes Ushguli even more remote during winter months. Snow comes in October and melts in May. The local population therefore begins preparing for the long winters early, usually in August. Starting from June, though, locals wait to welcome tourists into their guesthouses in order to host them in the best way possible and help them to understand the local culture, traditions and cuisine.

This is a two-part article. Part one presented the unique qualities of Svaneti, while part two, below, details the wonders of Tusheti.

In the traditional Tushetian game of 'Distance Jumping', people jump over a felt cloak. Jump the farthest and the cloak is your prize.

A Remote Region of Warm People

Spread between 1,700 and 2,400 metres of altitude, Tusheti is considered the most remote area of Georgia. Unlike Svaneti – another historic region characterised by towers – Tusheti is of such pristine and endemic nature that it is one of the Protected Areas of Georgia and inhabited only during the summer.

Cultural heritage runs deep here, the roots felt when communicating with locals and taking part in their festivals and traditional practices. One of the major annual events is the end-of-September cattle drive from Tusheti to the lowlands of the Kakheti Region. Enjoy a unique opportunity to join the shepherds and listen to their stories while sharing a meal by the fire at night.

Tushetian people have also preserved many ancient games like ‘Bow and Arrow’, ‘Distance Jumping’, ‘Playing with the Ball’, ‘Pushing’, the aims of which were to develop flexibility, strength, dexterity and speed in youth. The time-honoured names of these games are so old that non-Tushetian Georgians have a hard time remembering them.

In Tusheti, unlike Svaneti, the polyphonic songs are performed mainly by women

The Sun Rises When a Guest Comes

Tushetian hospitality is taken seriously, as revealed by phrases like ‘the sun rises when a guest comes; a cloud appears when the guest leaves’. Tushetians are genuinely ready to welcome guests with the best food they have, entertain them by teaching their games and even reward them with prizes if they win. The pleasure of being a guest at a Tushetian table is both memorable and utterly unique: Tushetian people brew their own beer, called aludi, make their own khachapuri, called kotori (wheat bread filled with mixture of curds and boiled butter), and prepare their own Gouda cheese (made from sheep’s milk).

Folk arts, crafts and practices are also alive and well in Tusheti. Women are famous for their artisanal work, like traditional knitted products that use natural material and colours. The practice of making thick felt is also preserved. Similar to Svan songs, Tushetian music is polyphonic, although performed mainly by women and accompanied by accordion and Georgian panduri.

The Keselo Fortress in Upper Omalo provides a glimpse of the Tushetian lifestyle in the 17th century

Tushetian towers are wider than the Svanetian ones and built for habitation. Today most of them are locked and unoccupied, most people having moved to two-storey wooden houses. They are however sights to behold in villages like Dartlo, Shenako and Diklo. Their stern and strict appearance makes them seem like night watchers, sentinels protecting the local landscape. One tower-ringed fortress museum near Keselo Fortress casts excellent light on the way Tushetian people used to live.

An exploration of remote Tusheti, with its lone towers and hospitable locals, really puts you in touch with the local community and nature. For the adventurous, another factor to keep in mind is that a getaway to the Tushetian Mountains is best done on horseback. Start in the village Omalo and then head off in the saddle to breathtaking views and unforgettable local hospitality – local meals, Tusheti guesthouses and homestays, and other elements of this land where time has stood still.

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Ia Kverghelidze is the whl.travel local connection in Georgia, where Ia and her team at Adventure Club Jomardi connect travellers to authentic experiences throughout the country. For travel information, or to book Georgia hotels or Georgia tours, contact Ia and her team!

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This is a two-part article. Part one, below, presents the unique qualities of Svaneti, while part two, details the wonders of Tusheti.

Ushguli is the highest village in Europe, towered over by Mt. Shkhara, the highest peak of the Georgian Caucasus Mountains

The Villages of Svaneti

Svaneti is Georgia’s remote northern province, a land of neatly cultivated cornfields, vast meadows and tiny villages of houses huddled beneath ancient towers. Museums and churches are protected as important monuments and everything takes place against the soaring backdrop of the Greater Caucasus Mountains.

In each of these villages, people live at altitudes of up to 2,200 meters, heads of families sit in special traditional chairs, death is greeted by song and every activity adds another layer to the incredible depth of culture on display. Latali stands out above many other villages with its 24 churches, although Ipari, Adishi, Lagurki and others boast many as well. In these Svaneti churches, ancient icons are illuminated with gold and doors are beautifully ornamented with silver. The antiquity of these churches is testament to the Svan people’s long-standing settlement of this mountainous region; the oldest churches belong to the 10th century.

One Svan tradition preserved to this day is a special chair in which only the head of family can sit

While this group of villages is notable for architecture, others are distinguished by their setting. The loftiest of them all – the jewel in the crown of Svaneti villages – is the World Heritage Site of Ushguli. Located between 2,086 and 2,200 metres above sea level, Ushguli is the highest village in Europe, its four Svan communities (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murqmeli) nestled into the foothills of Mt. Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak (5,200m). Traditional Svaneti village towers, wild natural surroundings and, of course, famously hospitable people enliven this area, often called an ‘open-air museum’.

Equally breathtaking is the high-elevation village of Becho, located in the shadow of the rocky outcrop of Mt. Ushba (4,710m). Isolated amongst towering mountainous peaks, the nearby ancient settlement of Mazeri also adds to the area’s overall character.

Khoshalader – Greetings from the Svan

The severity of their surroundings has influenced Svan character; they are serious and reserved, but also faithful and extremely welcoming. Like locals, though, visitors should always greet passers-by with a khoshalader, the Svanetian dialect for ‘may victory be with you’. Not only is it a great way to break the ice, but the conversation it starts could continue into a meal, during which, true to their nature, Svans may take offence if you do not sample every dish on the table. But how could you resist local Svanetian specialties like kubdari (bread filled with meat) and tchvishdari (cheese and maize mixed and baked)?

Traditional architecture is yet another standout cultural quality of the Svan, typified by the traditional village towers built for defence against northern tribes and avalanches. Each Svan family usually has its own tower. Strategically disposed in rows, they provided safe retreat for everyone who climbed a rope stair, which could then be pulled up behind them. The narrow, five-storey structures also proved to be indispensable during heavy snowfalls. The oldest Svanetian towers date from the 9th century AD.

Typical Svan houses, called machubi, are still found throughout the region. The first floor of a machubi was used as an animal barn and the central fireplace was considered sacred. Although they could be seen as ghosts from the past, these houses exude a special charm today.

Svans greet history, battle, victory and death through local songs rich in polyphony

Traditional culture also thrives in other ways. No one should miss a chance to hear the local polyphonic folk songs or take part in a perkhuli, a dance where everyone joins hands and forms a circle. Svan men also proudly wear their warm hats, acknowledged throughout Georgia as symbols of Svaneti.

Svaneti is a paradise for anyone yearning to learn more about the local culture by being immersed in it. After all, a visit to Svaneti really is most memorable when staying with local families and sharing in the preparation and eating of their meals. There’s a good selection of guesthouses and homestays in Ushguli for anyone choosing to overnight in the highest village in Europe. Otherwise, accommodation in Mestia, the cultural and religious centre of Svaneti, will not be a problem – there are guesthouses and hotels to meet all needs.

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Ia Kverghelidze is the whl.travel local connection in Georgia, where Ia and her team at Adventure Club Jomardi connect travellers to authentic experiences throughout the country. For travel information, or to book Georgia hotels or Georgia tours, contact Ia and her team!

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Hiking through paddy fields in Thailand, you will definitely feel like you've made a clean break from your regular routine. Photo courtesy of Rough Guides

Needless to say, there’s an inspiring overlap between the authors’ motivations and the whl.travel vision, the latter being to locate and promote the kinds of small, grassroots travel initiatives that, over time and with the support of travellers, are positive steps toward improving a place, and help shape it in a caring and sustainable way.

To illustrate this, the following links take you to abridged Clean Breaks excerpts paired with mentions (in blue) of the further resources in select destinations available through whl.travel. After all, it is our shared belief that readers inspired by Clean Breaks are the kinds of people who see the value in traveling with whl.travel.

• Fair Trade Holidays in South Africa
• Treks through Villages in Nepal
• Jungle Lodges in the Amazon
• Green Luang Prabang, Laos
• In Search of the Real Fiji
• Explore Borjomi-Kharangauli National Park, Georgia
• Dive at Bunaken, Indonesia

FAIR TRADE HOLIDAYS

South Africa has the world’s first fair trade tourism scheme, with a growing range of places involved. The following ten experiences offer much of the best South Africa has to offer – from wildlife-watching to townships to wine tasting – plus you’ll know that the local communities benefited from your visit. For details of all the participants in the scheme see www.fairtourismsa.org.za.

Clean Break #227: Drink with locals in a township

On a tour of the townships of Nelson Mandela Bay with Calabash, it’s a great idea to visit some of your guide’s favourite watering holes (shebeens). Here you can drink with the locals and shake your stuff to the marimba bands who often play outside the bars. www.calabashtours.co.za

The whl.travel local connection in Cape Town also offers a variety of Cape Town township tours, including the Township Dinner and Jazz Experience, Local African Cooking in a Township and a Weekend Township Experience, as well as other responsible tours and community-conscious accommodation.

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CLEAN BREAK #440: TREK THROUGH VILLAGES IN NEPAL

A 15-day Annapurna Trails and Homestay trip with the Responsible Travellers (who invest all their profits in local charities, www.theresponsibletravellers.com) takes in traditional houses like those pictured here. The whl.travel connection in Nepal (www.pokharahotel-link.com) also organises responsible tours in the area. Photo courtesy of Rough Guides

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JUNGLE LODGES

The Amazon rainforest is the stuff of dreams; there are iridescent butterflies the size of your hand, deafening waterfalls that cascade into emerald pools, indigenous tribes who hunt with blowpipes, and as many different kinds of exotic plants and birds as you’ll find anywhere on the earth. The remoteness of most jungle lodges means they have to be self-reliant for electricity, food and water, and many now organize guided treks that promote conservation of the jungle’s biodiversity. They also bring much-needed income to remote communities and provide visitors with an insight into their struggle with logging and oil companies.

Of 10 favourites named – including four in Ecuador, two in Peru, one in Guyana and one in Bolivia – one of the two in Brazil is:

Clean Break #353: Amazonat Jungle Lodge

One of the most accessible jungle lodges, Amazonat is two hours by road east from Manaus international airport, in a 50-square-kilometre private reserve. The owners run treks deep into the jungle and include courses on jungle survival. www.amazonat.org

The whl.travel local connection in Manaus, also known as the gateway to the Brazilian Amazon, is alert to the importance of sustainable practices in such a vital place. Their offers of responsible tours and accommodation tap into a growing global awareness of the need to support long-term conservation for future generations.

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In the forests of northern Laos, the Akha people still wear traditional clothing and use patterns that may inspire you at Ock Pop Tok’s textile gallery. Photo courtesy of Rough Guides

GREEN LUANG PRABANG

Laos eased restrictions on foreign tourism in 1994, and the sleepy former royal capital of Luang Prabang, hidden away in the jungle at the confluence of the Kahn and Mekong rivers, was made a World Heritage Site a year later. Visitor numbers have accelerated since, and Luang Prabang now has several ventures that aim to cope with the growth sustainably. The following experiences [three of five listed in the book] offer the best of this magical place, and will help to preserve its soul for many years to come.

Clean Break #402: Enjoy a puppet show

Every Thursday and Saturday at 7.30pm the kids at Children’s Cultural Centre, a project developed with Unicef, put on a traditional Lao puppet show. Throughout the year, the CCC members (aged between 6 and 18) perform in rural villages, using puppetry and other traditional forms to deliver messages about children’s rights and health issues. The rest of the time they learn all manner of traditional arts at the centre, and guests are welcome to learn as well, or help out. It’s all part of a concerted effort to ensure interest in Lao traditional culture is carried on by the next generation.

Clean break #403: Get a massage with the Red Cross

There are plenty of places in town where you can get an invigorating massage for berry little money, but choosing the Red Cross means you’ll help to fund projects to provide latrines and water systems to local villagers, and train local youths and tuk-tuk drivers in first aid. It’s a proper massage too after sweating away toxins on a steam bath infused with 24 different herbs, you’re kneaded and pummeled back into shape by medically trained professionals.

Clean Break #404: Make your own scarf

Laos is famous for its silk, and at Ock Pop Tok’s textile gallery you can select your favourite patterns and colours from a range of hand-stitched fabrics, or have clothes made to measure. Or you can visit their weaving centre located in a traditional riverside garden just 2km from the centre of town. Here you can learn how to weave or dye your own scarf in classes lasting from a half-day to a week; you’ll be taught by women working with Ock Pop Tock in an effort to keep their traditional handicrafts alive. www.ockpoptok.com

The whl.travel local connection in Lunag Prabang (in Champasak, Vientiane and Vang Vieng as well) also recommends visits to the Children’s Cultural Centre and the Lao Red Cross, in addition to offering responsible tours and accommodations throughout the region.

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CLEAN BREAK #479: IN SEARCH OF THE REAL FIJI

Agencies such as FijiBure (www.fijibure.com) and Fiji Ecotours (www.fijiecotours.net) help travellers get beyond stage-managed 'village tours' and into the embrace of real Fijian families living in traditional bures of woven bamboo walls and thatched roofs. The whl.travel connection in Fiji (www.fiji-hotels.com.fj) also offers responsible accommodation and tours. Photo courtesy of Rough Guides

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CLEAN BREAK #140: EXPLORE BORJOMI-KHARAGAULI NATIONAL PARK, GEORGIA

It may be the same size as Ireland, but Georgia has more animal and bird species than any other country in Europe – and the best way to see them is on guided walks through Borjomi-Kharangauli National Park, a vast wilderness of coniferous forest where bears, lynx and chamois dwell.

The family-run Marelisi guesthouse in the village of the same name at the park’s northern edge provides an ideal base to plan walking routes, book guides and fill up on local food. Hikes from here pass along rhododendron-lined rivers and meadows whose subalpine grasses seem to shift colour as they waft in the mountain breeze. Marelisi village itself is almost totally self-sufficient: a place where people still grind their corn in communal watermills known as tiskvili. Before you set out, be sure to stock up on sweet churchkela, a smack made by boiling nuts in grape juice and a useful energy source while hiking.
www.borjomi-kharagauli-np.ge

The whl.travel connection in Tbilisi & the Caucasus Mountains is also actively involved in supporting the local community, and specialises in organising eco and adventure tours throughout the country, including to Borjomi-Khargauli National Park. They also make possible online bookings at the Marelisi Guesthouse, as well as at other Borjomi-Kharagauli hotels and responsible lodging and tours in the area.

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CLEAN BREAK #400: DIVE AT BUNAKEN, INDONESIA

No one’s really sure how many fish dwell in the gin-clear water of Bunaken Marine Reserve in the north of the Sulawesi archipelago. It’s probably more than 2500 different species, but the number keeps changing as more are discovered. Whatever the exact amount, with up to 45m visibility on a clear day this is one of the best place to dive not just in Indonesia, but the whole world.

Sea turtles are just some of the many underwater creatures awaiting eager divers. Photo courtesy of Rough Guides

And each year it gets a bit more beautiful. That’s partly because the 890-square-kilometre reserve – which is spread over five hundred small islands – is using money raised from entrance fees to end damaging practices such as coral mining and blast-fishing. Also, because the reserve employs local villagers to clean up the reefs and beaches and guard them from trespassers, live coral cover is now increasing by around five hundred percent a year.

Most of the reserve’s accommodation – mainly basic homestays – is on Bunaken Island. If you’re after a little more luxury, head for the nearby island of Siladen and the Siladen Resort and Spa.
www.sulawesi-info.com/bunaken.php, www.siladen.com

The whl.travel local connection in Manado, home of the native Minahasa people, offers diving and snorkeling packages around the Bunaken Marine Reserve, tours to inland attractions and accommodation bookings at the Siladen Resort, as well as other hotels working to develop their sustainable practices.

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MORE INFORMATION

• Win one of 20 copies of Clean Breaks.
• Purchase a copy of Clean Breaks.
• Read a review of Clean Breaks.
• Read about the authors’ motivations for writing Clean Breaks.
• View samples from the book.
• Visit whl.travel for connections to tours and accommodations in more than 175 destinations in 80 countries on six continents, including many already involved in demonstrating long-term care for their destinations.