Visiting a rainforest is a unique nature experience. During the day, these unique biomes burst with a busy buzz and bright flashes of colour. At night, the air comes alive with the shrieks and calls of the forest’s many nocturnal creatures. Cicadas drone, bats flap beneath the canopy, a monkey howls in the distance.

Amidst all this natural beauty, it’s important to tread lightly. Remember that rainforests today cover just six percent of the earth, yet they are home to an estimated 40 to 75 percent of all the world’s plants and animals, including many still just being discovered. Sadly, despite efforts to protect them, many habitats are continue to be endangered by logging and overdevelopment.

The tropical rainforest habitat is home to between 40 to 75 percent of the world’s plants and animals. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Tatters

Well-planned ecotourism is one key to rainforests’ continued survival. It places value on preservation of nature as a commercial resource. Reputable tour outfits offer employment opportunities for locals as leaders and wildlife guides, enabling them to earn their money through sustainable and environmentally responsible forms of income. Travellers’ passion for traditional culture encourages locals to continue ancient forest-friendly practices.

Before your next escape to the rainforest, do some research in advance. The right tour operator and a great local guide can help you spot wildlife and make the most of any adventure.

Get Up Close to the Real Rainforest in Corcovado, Costa Rica

Away from the crowds of much-visited Monteverde, another sort of park awaits visitors in Costa Rica. National Geographic once labelled Corcovado National Park as “the most biologically intense place on earth,” and you’d be hard pressed to prove them wrong. Accessible via Puerto Jimenez along the Osa Penninsula, the  425-square-kilometre park is one of the last places to spot jaguars in Central America. It is also home to endangered species such as the Baird’s tapir, Harpy eagle, ocelots and more. Staying overnight in the park is strongly recommended, possible in a basic, budget and rustic eco-lodge or one of several ranger stations.

The Bolaven Plateau in the Champasak Province of southern Laos is known for its many scenic waterfalls. Photo courtesy of Miranda Siu

Climb High in the Champasak Province of Laos

Well known for its collection of ancient Khmer ruins, Champasak Province of southern Laos contains a wealth of natural thrills in the form of beautiful jungles and raging waterfalls. Wildlife enthusiasts can try to spot rare and endangered species like yellow-cheeked gibbons, Asian elephants and Irrawaddy dolphins, while other adventures await thrill seekers who head high above the treetops. Two- and three-day zip line treks allow travellers to unleash their inner Tarzan in the canopy of this semi-evergreen forest.

Become Better Acquainted with the Jungle in Borneo

The tropical island of Borneo is home to some of the world’s oldest rainforest. As a nature lover’s paradise, it is also one of the last natural habitats for endangered animals such as the Bornean orangutan, Clouded leopard and several native bat species. Guided trips can be booked from cities such as Kota Kinabalu or Sandakan on the Malaysian side, or Banjarmasin on the Indonesia side.  In addition to being thrilling, night-time jungle treks are probably the best way to spot nocturnal wildlife.

Encounter a City Lost in the Jungles of Colombia

The dense jungles that constitute Colombia’s Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Mountains are the historic domain of the early Tayrona civilisation. Among the ancient chiefdom’s best known archaeological sites is Ciudad Perdida (the “Lost City”), accessible via a six-day guided trek through a dense tropical forest. Hikers depart from Santa Marta, the city along Colombia’s Caribbean coast. The trek includes lots of opportunities to learn about the area’s indigenous people – descendants of the Tayrona – and plenty of time for spotting wildlife such as tapirs, deer and endemic hummingbirds.

Observe Life in the Amazing Amazon of Brazil

Capital of the Brazilian state of Amazonas, the city of Manaus is a popular point of departure for ecotourists visiting the Amazon region.  From this gateway city, visitors can easily arrange regional cruises that visit remote communities along the Amazon River or schedule boat transfers to jungle lodges and resorts with river-view bungalows. The Brazilian Amazon famously encompasses 33 percent of all the world’s surviving tropical rainforests and its biodiversity is unparalleled. One in five of the world’s fish species is found in its waters, while the jungle itself boasts 2.5 million recorded insect species and is home to a wide collection of endangered animals like spider monkeys, jaguars and poison dart frogs. Enjoy the best of the river and the surrounding rainforest.

The port city of Manaus, Brazil, is a gateway to the incredible Amazon region. Photo by Rodolpho Emanuel

Revel in the Natural Beauty of Rwanda’s Nyungwe Forest

Extending for over 1,000 kilometres, Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park is the largest protected area of high-altitude montane rainforest in Africa. Nestled in the heart of one of the continent’s most biodiverse regions – the Albertine Rift – Nyungwe boasts an exotic collection of rare orchids and endemic birds, as well as a large concentration of primates. Anyone looking to track chimps, however, will need to spend some time here. For the best chance at sighting mankind’s closest relative, consider booking a guided trip in the forests of Nyungwe.

To learn more about about jungle adventures on The Travel Word, read about travellers’ hiking and trekking experiences in some of the planet’s most exciting jungles.

This is the question we posed to our network of local travel experts all around the world. They came back with responses about incredible landscapes that make their corners of the earth special. In honour of Earth Day and our focus this month on ecotourism, we’ve compiled their thoughts about some of the best landscapes from around the world.

Lunahuanâ, near Lima, Peru, is where you "can get in touch with nature, adventure and the way of life that its people have preserved." Photo courtesy of Sara Linares

Lunahuaná near Lima, Peru

Lunahuaná, two hours from the city of Lima, Peru, is a natural paradise where the sun shines for most of the year. It is a mixed landscape situated between the coast and the highlands of Lima, Whether you are looking to chill out in a natural environment, set off on a hiking adventure, go for a swim or practice rafting in its rivers, you will find that lots of outdoor activities are possible in Lunahuaná.

In your downtime, be sure to visit the vineyards, where you’ll find more than three types of grapes. Lunahuaná locals are warm and friendly people, noted for their production of Pisco (Peru’s distilled national liquor made of grapes), as well as for the cuisine with tasty river shrimps as the star ingredient. Around town are comfortable and cosy accommodations to suit different budgets. Some hotels and guesthouses also offer horse riding, and motorcycles and bicycles for rent. Lunahuaná lets travellers can get in touch with nature, adventure and the way of life that its people have preserved!
~ Sara Linares, the whl.travel local connection in Lima, Peru

Agios Gordis in Corfu, Greece

My absolute favourite spot on Corfu is the beach in Agios Gordis at sunset. Here you are in perfect contact with all the elements of nature any time of the year. Imagine feeling the sand beneath your feet and the wind on your skin, while listening to the sound of the waves and gazing at the sun, still warming you, as it slowly disappears below the horizon, casting the most beautiful colours into the sky. This is a landscape I never grow tired of as nature paints different shades for each sunset.
~ Sandra Broedner, the whl.travel local connection in Corfu, Greece

In Malawi, "as soon as the tea estates come into sight, our shoulders drop, we breathe deep and relax." Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Tea Estates in Malawi

Just 30 minutes from Malawi’s commercial capital of Blantyre is the country’s southern tea-estate region. With Mount Mulanje as a backdrop, it is one of the most beautiful landscapes in the country. Friday night, heading away from the office, we hit the road. As soon as the tea estates come into sight, our shoulders drop, we breathe deep and relax. A stay at one of these tea estate lodges makes the perfect weekend break.
~ Kate Webb, the whl.travel local connection in Malawi

On the remote Arnavon Islands of the Solomon Islands, "Visitors have a very high chance of seeing hawksbill turtle hatchlings emerge from their nests." Photo courtesy of Kerrie Kennedy

Arnavon Islands, Santa Ysabel (Solomon Islands)

As a protected area, the Arnavon Islands support marine life in numbers and variety rarely seen anywhere else in the Solomon Islands. The surrounding reefs and islands provide magnificent snorkelling and diving opportunities, with healthy populations of giant clams and huge bumphead parrotfish. This is also the world’s most significant breeding ground of the critically endangered hawksbill sea turtle. Visitors have a very high chance of seeing hawksbill turtle hatchlings emerge from their nests and begin their journey to the sea.

Getting to the Arnavon Islands is not easy, but the effort is worth it and you will be one of a small number of people in the world who has actually experienced this wonderful place.
~ Kerrie Kennedy, the whl.travel local connection in the Solomon Islands

Dzūkija National Park in Lithuania

I have more than one favourite natural landscape in Lithuania, among which are Pavilniai Regional Park, Dzūkija National Park and the Curonian Spit. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Curonian Spit is one of the greatest natural wonders of the world, but there are so many places in Lithuanian nature that offer travellers human-free environments. One would need at least two weeks to take it all in.
~ Kestas Lukoskinas, the whl.travel local connection in Lithuania

West Lake in Hanoi, Vietnam

West Lake (Hồ Tây) is the largest lake of Hanoi, Vietnam , with an area of about 5.5 square kilometres and a shore length of 17 kilometres. A vast and beautiful romantic place, it’s considered to be “the lung of Hanoi,” a favourite location for many people to take a walk in fresh air, enjoy the morning fog or watch a beautiful sunset. West Lake is also famous for its beautiful lotus gardens surrounded by bicycle alleys.
~ Hoang Xuan Bach, the whl.travel local partner in Hanoi, Vietnam

At White Beach in Boracay, Philippines, "The sands is white and so soft it feels like you are walking on talcum powder." Photo courtesy of Trudy Allen

White Beach in Boracay, Philippines

Boracay is famed for its White Beach, which is consistently voted one of the world’s top 10 beaches in various magazines and online polls. The sand is white and so soft it feels like you are walking on talcum powder. There are various theories regarding how Boracay got its name, but my personal favourite is that it comes from the word ‘borac,’ which means white cotton. This perfectly sums up the texture and colour of the stunning White Beach!
~ Trudy Allen, the whl.travel local partner in Boracay

"If you want to see a real pearl of nature, come to Soqotra Island." Photo courtesy of Tina Zorman

Soqotra Island, Yemen

My favourite landscape in Yemen is pristine Soqotra Island, lying 400 kilometres south of the Arabian Peninsula, where the waters of the Arabian Sea meet those of the Indian Ocean. Millions of years of isolation, varied geology and topography, large seasonal and regional climate variability and sustainable land practices have all helped Soqotra preserve its rich flora and fauna. Its endemism is one of the highest in the world.

From amazing beaches with clear waters and coral reefs to the rough Hagghar Mountains, mountain plateaus, deep valleys and desert dunes, the variety of landscapes is sure to excite. If you want to see a real pearl of nature, come to Soqotra Island.
~ Tina Zorman, the Gunyah local partner in Yemen

"Mayon is recognisable for its perfect cone as it has a near symmetrical shape that meets everyone's idea of a picturesque volcano." Photo courtesy of Helen Atanacio

The Volcanoes of the Philippines

The Philippines has many stunning and breathtaking landscapes, but to me the volcanoes are beyond comparison and truly remind me of the power of nature. There are 37 volcanoes of which 18 are still active. Many are easily accessible and make interesting day trips. The challenge of climbing them is obvious, but the landscape and the views are really worth the effort. I never thought I would say this (the Stairmaster being the object that I loathe most in the gym), but I have become a fan of scaling volcanoes. They never cease to amaze me!

At the top of my ‘easy three’ list is Mayon, which is in Bicol and easily reached from Legaspi airport or via bus from Manila. This volcano has had 50 recorded eruptions, the latest of which was in 2010. It reached the top of my top volcano list, though, for its beauty as it appears to rise from the flatlands somewhat like Uluru (Ayer’s Rock) in Australia’s Northern Territory. Mayon is recognisable for its perfect cone as it has a near symmetrical shape that meets everyone’s idea of a picturesque volcano!
~ Helen Atanacio, the whl.travel local connection in the Philippines

Vang Vieng's magnificent limestone mountains are good for spending "countless sunsets on the banks of the Nam Song River gazing at them." Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

The Limestone Mountains of Laos

Peace, tranquillity and relief are all words that describe how I feel in the presence of Vang Vieng‘s magnificent limestone mountains in Laos. I’ve spent countless sunsets on the banks of the Nam Song River gazing at them, captivated by their size and beauty.
~ Cindy Fan, the whl.travel local connection in Laos

On the island of Gozo in Malta, "The bay of the Azure Window is a magical location at which to have a picnic, take a swim or go diving". Photo courtesy of Daphne Klumpers

The Azure Window in Malta

The Azure Window is a natural arch located near the village of Dwejra on the Maltese island of Gozo. This breathtaking landmark was created thousands of years ago when two limestone caves collapsed. When visiting Malta, the bay of the Azure Window is a magical location at which to have a picnic, take a swim or go diving.”
~ Daphne Klumpers, the whl.travel local connection in Malta

Jaco Island of Timor Leste has "crystal-clear waters and white sand beaches." Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Hpgrumpe

Jaco Island in Timor Leste

Off Timor Leste’s most eastern shore is Jaco Island, which lies entirely within the borders of Nino Konis Santana National Park. Considered holy by the indigenous population of Timor Leste, Jaco island is uninhabited. It is surrounded by crystal-clear waters and white sand beaches, so it is ideal for swimming and snorkelling and one of the most popular tourism destination in the country.
~ Jim Richards, the whl.travel local connection in Timor Leste

At Mt. Ushba in Georgia, the "double-summit shape," is capped in snow and shrouded in unimaginable tranquillity. Photo courtesy of Ia Kverghelidze

Mt. Ushba in Georgia

Mamuka Burduli (Founder and Director of Adventure Club Jomardi) names Mt. Ushba as his most favourite natural landscape in Georgia. It is located in Svaneti, northwestern Georgia. Towering at an altitude of 4690 metres above sea level, Ushba is often associated with a saddle given its double-summit shape, capped in snow and shrouded in unimaginable tranquillity. The surrounding areas play host to the Ushba waterfalls and foothills covered in colourful flowers. Here one can find pure intimacy with the nature.
~ Ia Kverghelidze, the whl.travel local connection in Georgia

Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Have you ever felt at one with nature? I just love that feeling, and the closest I have come is at the Kravice Waterfalls, near Medjugorje in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Here, you can feel the sand underfoot as you walk by the water. Find a patch of grassy field where you can lay down and soak in the sun. The water is sweet and so clean. While you swim you can open your eyes to the fish and other freshwater species. You can enjoy a natural shower by standing under the falls, feeling the pressure of the water on your shoulders.
~ Zana R-Bilal, the whl.travel local connection in Medjugorje

Morne Seychelles National Park, Mission Lodge, Seychelles

Vens town! This is the place that the slaves chose when they were freed. It is located at about 400 metres above sea level in the middle of what is now known as Morne Seychellois National Park. Seychelles is well known for pristine beautiful beaches, so I don’t know why the slaves (and the missionaries that accompanied them) would chose to stay on a mountaintop, when 200 years ago this place would have been a dense tropical rainforest with limited access.

Vens town is now called Mission Lodge after the missionaries that lived there educating the slaves. It is readily accessible by bus from the Sans Soucis road. Once you have arrived, the magic of the place takes over. On a clear day you can see all five of the bays of the west coast of Mahe island. With the bright sunshine, the sea reflects more green than blue. To experience this place, next time you are in the Seychelles go there. It’s 0.5 euro by bus from Victoria.
~ Pascal Esparon, the whl.travel local connection in Seychelles

A favorite climb in Borneo's Mulu National Park is the "Mulu Pinnacles, razor sharp limestone formations jutting 45 metres high." Photo courtesy of Flickr/thinkofacolour

Mulu National Park in Borneo, Malaysia

Mulu National Park attracts many foreign visitors to its lush rain forest, beautiful waterfalls and hidden lakes. The star attraction, however, is the park’s enormous limestone caves. In 2000, this national treasure was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Covering 52,865 hectares of primary rain forest, Mulu National Park is home to a number of the world’s record-breaking caves. The pride of Borneo is Sarawak Chamber, the world’s largest underground chamber. It has been said that this enormous chamber could accommodate 40 Boeing 747 jets without overlapping their wings!

The ground above is covered in rich primary rain forest and offers a whole
range of nature-based activities. There are excellent jungle treks and mountain hikes. A favorite climb is to the Mulu Pinnacles, razor sharp limestone formations jutting 45 metres high.
~ Oshin Chin, the whl.travel local connection in Borneo, Malaysia

The view from The Elephant Village in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Throughout Laos, deforestation is destroying the elephant’s natural habitat. According to a Deutsche Welle report on illegal logging in Laos, only 40 percent of the country remains covered in forest. What does this mean for the elephants? Herds get trapped in patches of forest or “green islands” surrounded by farmland and urban development. Migration routes are blocked. The food supply is insufficient to support these herds and since they are unable to leave, inbreeding occurs, leading to genetic diseases and weaker populations.

If current trends continue, the wild Asian elephant population will become extinct within the next 50 years.

Logging is also dangerous and hard work. Malnourished elephants are required to move heavy loads on steep terrain and injury is common. They are sometimes given amphetamines so they can work long hours.

Yet simply putting a stop to logging is not a sustainable solution. The work of one elephant supports dozens of people in Laos, a developing nation where as much as 73 percent of the population lives on less than US$2 a day. When logging was banned in Thailand in 1990, well over 2,000 elephants lost their jobs. Domesticated elephants are expensive to keep and care for – they require a tremendous amount of food and water every day – so owners were forced to release them into the wild, where they sometimes slowly starved, or to kill them.

Fortunately, tourism is offering one positive solution.

Getting up close and personal with an Asian elephant. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Alternative Employment for Elephants

In Laos, former logging elephants have found new employment and a healthy, peaceful life at camps such as The Elephant Village, 15 kilometres outside of Luang Prabang. At its stunning location overlooking the Nam Khan River, visitors can get up close and personal with Asian elephants, the planet’s second-largest land animal, whose mass is surpassed only by the African elephant. Travellers learn that despite an elephant’s hefty size, it is a remarkably gentle, sensitive and agile creature.

The Elephant Village camp offers day trips of an elephant ride combined with hiking, or a two-day Shangri-Lao expedition with an overnight stay in luxurious accommodations located right in the camp.

For the more adventurous, the “Living as a Mahout” program is an unforgettable experience. Travellers learn what it takes to be a mahout: how to climb onto an elephant, ride it bareback and “steer” with commands. The highlight is riding the elephant into the river for its daily bath.

Bath time! The author gives Mae Wat a scrub in the river at The Elephant Village in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Camps like The Elephant Village provide work and income for locals, protect the land, take both mahouts and elephants out of logging, ensure the animals get proper veterinary care and educate visitors on the issues. Visitors leave with a greater appreciation for both the animals and the mahouts.

A word of caution: this does not mean all elephant camps are good. Many have sprung up throughout Thailand and Laos so it is up to travellers to research a camp’s reputation and quality.

Arranging Responsible Elephant Stays

ElefantAsia is another company that has dedicated itself to the protection of these animals. At work in Laos since 2001, ElefantAsia recently opened a new sanctuary in Xayaboury, a province in northern Laos.

The views of Laos are even more remarkable from atop an elephant. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

In their brochure, they provide tips on how to choose a quality camp and what to look out for. Here is a summary:

Does the elephant have bloody puncture wounds on its forehead?
This is a sign of abuse from the ankus or metal hook used by mahouts as a guiding tool; when used properly it should leave no mark.

Is there enough food for the elephants to eat when they are not working or giving rides?
Elephants spend 14-18 hours eating each day. Gathering and supplying food should be an obvious activity. And while it’s fun to feed them bananas, they need a varied diet. You should see staples like bamboo and grasses.

Is there sufficient water and shelter when they are not giving rides?
Elephants drink up to 100 litres of water a day and suffer when exposed to too much sun. They must have access to fresh, clean water at all times and have shade available.

The author getting taught by a mahout how to ride an elephant at The Elephant Village in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Is the elephant enclosure clean?
Cleanliness is vital in preventing the spread of disease. Dung should be regularly collected and urine should be washed away. Also, the dung should be round, solid lumps. Diarrhoea is a sure sign that the elephant is ill and shouldn’t be working. Inform the mahout/staff immediately.

Are the elephants flapping their ears and swinging their tails?
A healthy elephant is in constant motion. They flap their ears to fan themselves and swing their tails to drive off insects. Being very still can be an indicator of ill health.

Are elephants repeatedly swaying their head back and forth?
Elephants that have been chained or hobbled for too long will swing their heads repeatedly in an exaggerated manner. It can be an indicator of stress, boredom and poor care.

If you see signs of abuse or neglect, speak up and let management know.

How can you do the same – slow down your own adventures? Well, start by choosing just one place to visit and commit to getting to know it well. Then rent an apartment, lodge or guesthouses with weekly or monthly deals.

Need help getting your imagination racing? Here are a five excellent slow-travel lodging ideas.

Art Lodge, Isla Gobernadora, Panama. Photo courtesy of Art Lodge

Art Lodge in Gobernadora Island, Panama

Isla Gobernadora is located off the Pacific cost of central Panama at the mouth of the Golfo de Montijo, an important wetland predictably called the Humedal Golfo de Montijo. It’s within sight of the famous wave of Santa Catalina and the wonders lying beneath the waters of Coiba National Park. Most importantly, it’s where you will find a special place called Art Lodge.

The owners of Art Lodge, Valerie and Yves, have built an island paradise where you immediately feel at home. As both Valerie and Yves are French artists, the facilities and layout of the lands reflect their love of creativity. Everything is unique – each bungalow has its own character and artistic flair – constructed using local supplies, recycling materials and even incorporating smooth driftwoods from the beach into the designs.

The Art Lodge helps you slow down by changing your rhythm. Isla Gobernadora is a place where people still prefer the relaxed pace of the island life. You tap into it by participating in handicrafts workshops, going fishing or discovering the island and its surroundings. This small idyll has no cars or roads – just footpaths worn into place by generations of locals keeping things as simple as possible.

Check out Art Lodge on Gobernadora Island, Panama

Kiansom Villa in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. Photo courtesy of Kiansom Villa

Kiansom Villa in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

Snuggled into the lush green of Sabah on Malaysian Borneo is an ideal place for slow travellers in search of tranquillity. One perfect spot is Kiansom Villa, a self-catering holiday home with fully furnished and spacious rooms large enough for up to six people. A kitchenette makes home cooking possible, as does a convenient local market for the purchase of fresh ingredients.

Our advice is to book for at least a week and take your time with all that there is around the villa. Visit the Mari-mari Cultural Village – a reminder of the ancient indigenous tribal era – a mere five minutes’ drive from Kiansom. Set aside a full day for Manukan Island, a haven part of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park and just 20 minutes by boat from Jesselton Point, Kota Kinabalu. You can arrange for island hopping, snorkelling, diving or pure relaxation.

On a drive into the hinterland of scenic hills and paddy fields, stop by at the village of Pekan Nabalu to savour local fruits in season. Visit the Kinabalu Park World Heritage Site and make your way to Poring Hot Springs, famous for its sulphur baths, canopy walkway, butterfly farm, orchid conservation centre and tropical gardens, as well as the Kipungit and Langanan waterfalls.

Check out Kiansom Villa in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo

Herceg Etno Selo in Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Herceg Etno Selo

Herceg Etno Selo Village in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Visit a bygone era just outside of Medjugorje in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Opened just four years ago, Herceg Etno Selo was built to help travellers step back to a time when life was simpler and slower. To get oriented, follow the stepping-stone paths through the 15 buildings built using age-old masonry techniques and arranged to create a sense of community.

Inside your own village house, you’ll find handcrafted mahogany furniture and warm, soft lighting. The favourite common area is the restaurant, which is located at the heart of the village. Here you can enjoy a real taste of rural Bosnia pulled from a menu of local food and wine, including famous varieties like Zilavka and Blatina.

This assembly of traditional-style houses feels like a village also because of an emphasis on culture. The amphitheatre – another favourite common area – hosts regularly scheduled local shows and events. You’ll even find an ethnography museum with great insight into the country’s past. Shoppers can browse in the village shop, which stocks traditional masonry tools and artefacts.

Check out Herceg Etno Selo near Medjugorje in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bua Lodge in Malawi. Photo courtesy of Bua Lodge

Bua River Lodge in Malawi

The newly opened Bua River Lodge is all about mood – good ones and slow ones. Built with repurposed safari tents on the bank of the Bua River, it is illuminated at night with paraffin lanterns and solar-powered lamps, which means there are no noisy generators and, at dinner, the ambiance is truly magical. When you’re looking out over the river, every night is a good night, but full moons are particularly magical.

The lodge is superbly located in the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve of Malawi. In fact, it is the first permanent accommodation to be built within the reserve.

As extra incentive to go slow and stay longer, the lodge offers a discount for stays of three days or longer. We urge you to take advantage of it and let the enchantment seep in. You’re going to need to take your time here – leisure activities include fishing, bird watching and walking safaris.

Check out Bua River Lodge in Malawi

River View Bungalows in Vang Vieng, Laos. Photo courtesy of River View Bungalows

River View Bungalows in Vang Vieng, Laos

Get comfortable and slow down in Laos by staying in a unique and elegant stilted guesthouse built on an island right in the middle of the Saysong River near Vang Vieng.

Called the River View Bungalows, they are a family-owned business inspired by Mr Southchai Chanthavong, a young entrepreneur with a passion for Laos and its tourism industry. Southchai studied accounting and English in Vientiane before returning to his hometown of Vang Vieng to live his dream of building the River View Bungalows, an internet cafe and the Saysong Guesthouse.

Given the abundance of activities around Vang Vieng, especially the ever-popular river tubing trips that launch from the tubing station nearby, you’ll need at least a week here. Act fast for slow travel savings, though. Until April 11 (2012), get 10% off your stay at the River View Bungalows by booking online in advance.

Check out River View Bungalows near Vang Vieng, Laos

We’ve asked our global network of local tourism professionals about the ‘length of stay’ factor in their destinations. Answers varied, but they all agree on one thing: the average tourist isn’t a slow traveller and just doesn’t stay long enough to really appreciate a place.

We’ve shared the thoughts of 15 of our local partners on how long is long enough and what the average fast traveller is missing.

The moving sand dunes on the Curonian Spit, near the town of Nida, Lithuania. Photo courtesy of Flickr.com/Lee Fenner

Lithuania

Average length of stay: Three days to visit the three main cities in Lithuania – Vilnius, Kaunas and Klaipeda.
Recommended length of stay: One week at least. Two weeks would be even better to allow time at the awesome beaches on the Baltic Sea in summertime or Druskininkai spa resort.
How to travel slow in Lithuania: Cycling, canoeing, taking hot air balloon rides and relaxing by the seaside or at the spa.
~ Kestas Lukoskinas, the whl.travel local connection in Lithuania

Browsing the local markets of Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradeliza

Luang Prabang, Laos

Average length of stay: Three to four days.
Recommended length of stay: Two weeks, in order to include outdoor activities around Luang Prabang, which is also to be considered in other destinations like Nong Khiaw, Vang Vieng and Vientiane.
How to travel slow in Luang Prabang: Practice the art of doing nothing! Just sit beside the river with a drink, relax and soak in the ambience. Rivers are the lifeblood of Laos and its key destinations (Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang), so take the time to travel via the Mekong River, as local people do. For example, take a slow boat cruise from Luang Prabang to the Thai border.
~ Cindy Fan, the whl.travel local partner in Luang Prabang

Boats near the Sunday Morning Fish Market in Marsaxlokk, Malta. Photo courtesy of Louisa Attard

Malta

Average length of stay: 8.2 nights. This number is quite high compared to other countries, mainly due to the many long stays of English school students.
Recommended length of stay: Between two and three weeks. Take your time with each site so you really can appreciate the atmosphere. Even though Malta is very small there’s still so much to see.
How to travel slow in Malta: Find more time to experience the landscape by foot. Go hiking in Malta, especially in spring. Take five days, pack up some camping gear and hike around the whole island of Gozo. You’ll be surrounded by pure nature.
~ Marco Attard, the whl.travel local connection in Malta

Surfing at sunset on Ipanema Beach, Rio de Janiero, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Luiz Renato Malcher

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Average length of stay: Two to three nights.
Recommended length of stay: At least one week.
How to travel slow in Rio de Janeiro: Try the local brownie with chilly pepper jam in one of the cosy cafés in the Santa Teresa area of Rio de Janeiro. See the samba rehearsals on Saturdays at a local samba school. Visit a favela. Watch a soccer match in Maracanã Stadium. Sample the nightlife in the bars and clubs of the Lapa district. The list could go on and on!
~ Luiz Renato Malcher, the whl.travel local partner in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

A fuzzy lake bird spotted on a trek to Niupani Village on Rennell Island of the Solomon Islands. Photo by Rennell World Heritage Tours

Solomon Islands

Average length of stay: 10.92 days (according to a study completed in 2009).
Recommended length of stay: Essentially it would take months to reach the 900+ islands on local transport, but you need about two to three weeks minimum to get a real feel for the Solomon Islands. Most visitors take the first four or five days just to slow down and stop looking at their watches.
How to travel slow in the Solomon Islands: Stop and stay overnight in a local village. Stroll through and watch how life moves at ‘Solomon Time.’ Sit down with locals to learn about how simple a lifestyle they have.
~ Kerrie Kennedy, the whl.travel local partner in Solomon Islands

The view from Apparition Hill in Mejugorie, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Photo courtesy of Mate T. Vasilj

Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Average length of stay: Four to seven nights.
Recommended length of stay: Six nights and seven days in Medjugorje to see it well.
How to travel slow in Medjugorje: Attend the frequent talks in John Paul II hall given by local Franciscan priests of the Medjugorje parish. Find peaceful time for prayer or just walk through the fields. If you stay longer, you will have the chance to be a part of the Medjugorje local community. Stop for casual conversation with locals.
~ Zana R-Bilal, the whl.travel local connection in Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Kite surfing in Florianópolis, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Renata Asprino

Florianópolis, Brazil

Average length of stay: Travellers spend from five to seven days here.
Recommended length of stay: A minimum of seven days, but 15 days would be better to really experience the island of Florianópolis.
How to travel slow in Florianópolis: Get in close contact with the island’s well-preserved nature. Hike to remote fishing villages or to archaeological sites. Mountain bike to refreshing waterfalls. Learning to kite-surf, go birdwatching or just relax on the beach.
~ Renata Asprino, the whl.travel local connection in Florianópolis, Brazil

Ushguli, the highest village in Europe, is towered over by Mt. Shkhara in Georgia. Photo courtesy of Ia Kverghelidze

Tbilisi and Caucasus Mountains, Georgia

Average length of stay: Seven days.
Recommended length of stay: 7-12 days. Although Georgia is a small country, all its regions are different from one another.
How to travel slow in Georgia: The best way to feel the Georgian spirit is to hike in the remote mountains, where ancient and medieval towers are still preserved. Visit Ushguli, the highest settlement in Europe. Compare the nature, architecture and traditions of the mountainous areas of Tusheti, Svaneti and Khevsureti. Other options of active travel are mountain biking and rafting. Georgia is famous for its wine. A wine tour in the Kakheti region, with advanced winemaking techniques and many vineyards, promises tasty wine and meals.
~ Ia Kverghelidze, the whl.travel local partner in Georgia

A typical road scene outside Petriti in southeast Corfu, Greece. Photo courtesy of Jillian Wareham

Corfu, Greece

Average length of stay: Around 7-10 days
Recommended length of stay: At least 14-21 days
How to travel slow in Corfu: Since north, south and west Corfu are so different from each other, just spend a few days on each coast. Find Paxos Island. Go snorkelling or diving. Ride horses. Try cycling, walking or hiking.
~ Sandra Broedner, the whl.travel local partner in Corfu, Greece

Recycling paper at the Nchima Paper Recycling Trust in Malawi. Photo courtesy of Will Turner.

Malawi

Average length of stay: Two weeks.
Recommended length of stay: Two to three weeks.
How to travel slow in Malawi: Try activities that are unique to Malawi, like visiting its rural areas, especially the mountains and rural villages.
~ Kate Webb, the whl.travel local partner in Malawi

Boat painting at Slow Travel Art Lodge in Panama. Photo courtesy of Sandrine-Pia Casto

Panama

Average length of stay: Three days.
Recommended length of stay: At least five days.
How to travel slow in Panama: Look for traditional fishing and handicraft workshops with the local population, discover islands off the coast of Panama and visit Coiba National Park.
~ Sandrine-Pia Casto, the whl.travel local partner in Panama City, Panama

Inside a traditional longhouse used by the Rungus tribes of Borneo, Malaysia. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

Borneo, Malaysia

Average length of stay: One week.
Recommended length of stay: At least two weeks.
How to travel slow in Borneo: Visit the Mari-mari Cultural Village. Cook local dishes from Malaysia and taste local delicacies. Visit Kinabalu Park and Poring Hot Springs. Taste local fruits when in season. Stroll through the Sunday Market on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu. Allow for two nights on the Sukau Kinabatangan river cruise. Stay in a traditional Rungus tribal longhouse. Finally, get outdoors on a three-day climb of Mt. Kinabalu or a five-day trek to Crocker Range or Maliau Basin.
~ Jessica Peters, the whl.travel local partner in Borneo, Malaysia

A harvest of shea to be used for shea butter in Ghana. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

Ghana

Average length of stay: 10-12 days.
Recommended length of stay: It’s not the quantity of time, but rather the quality of time that’s important. Seek the kinds of experiences that enable you learn more about the ways of life of ordinary people in Ghana.
How to travel slow in Ghana: Opt for homestay accommodation with a local family so you can get a feel for their daily activities or simply spend a few days. It’s all about doing very genuine things. Sample the farming life, try volunteering and take an interest in local livelihoods.
~ Marian Thompson, the whl.travel local partner in Ghana

A giant tortoise in the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Ecuador

Average length of stay: Most travellers spend at least a week in Ecuador.
Recommended length of stay: At least 14 days to really experience the important destinations.
How to travel slow in Ecuador: Experience all “four worlds” of Ecuador. Take a tour of Quito, the capital of the world, then head to the Galapagos Islands to learn about the place where the evolutionary theory was born. Then head back to the mainland to visit the Andes Mountains and the Amazon Rainforest.
~ Sebastian Sierra, the whl.travel local partner in Quito, Ecuador

Goree Island, one of Dakar's biggest tourist attractions.

Senegal

Average length of stay: Less than a week in Senegal and less than two days in the Dakar area.
Recommended length of stay: Exploring Senegal would require more than 15 days, but if you choose to zoom in on just one or two areas, then plan about four days per area.
How to travel slow in Senegal: For a real feel of Dakar, spend one night on Goree Island. Dedicate one full day to the markets, for they are so different one from another. Spend one day focused on cultural places and traditional arts, and one night making the most of Dakar nightlife. Take one day to visit Dakar’s surroundings, with an excursion to Pink Lake (Lac Rose), Turtles’ Village (Village des Tortues), Bandia Nature Reserve or Îles de la Madeleine Reserve.
~ Jérôme Kardos, the whl.travel local partner in Dakar, Senegal

For a traveller on a tight schedule, this can be challenging. Time is such a precious commodity these days; we’ve been led to believe that if we don’t maximise our scant vacation time by hitting all the major tourist must-dos, we’ve somehow failed.

Slowly, take the time to learn about the ethnic tribes of Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

But travelling and living in Laos has taught me that slowing down adds richness to your experience – like seeing the world vividly in Technicolor. You begin to notice things and understand how they fit into a greater cultural narrative.

“Slow Travel” is a buzzword that is gaining popularity. It can mean a variety of different things, but is often used to describe a longer stay in one place rather than flitting from one spot to the next. What you experience is usually a deeper connection to a place, its culture and its people.

Sunset on the Mekong River as seen from Luang Prabang, Laos. Best enjoyed slowly. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

So if you’re planning a trip to Luang Prabang, I suggest you treat yourself with time. Experience this UNESCO World Heritage city through the lens of slow travel:

On your first day, do nothing

Crazy, I know. While most people scramble up Phousi Hill for the sunset (yes, it is nice), my favourite spot is at a bar on the Mekong River. The view is unobstructed and the sunset is equally, if not more, spectacular. Sit, relax with a drink and just do nothing. You’re in Laos!

Dried fish at the Phosy Market in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Slow food

One key ingredient in Lao cuisine is patience. A delicious Lao dish begins with a trip to the morning market for fresh ingredients (check out Phosy market, where the locals go). No fancy equipment is involved in Lao cooking – just a mortar, pestle and good ol’ fashioned elbow grease. Fresh herbs and plenty of chilli are bashed to make mouthwatering marinades and dips. And a Lao table is never without a basket of sticky rice. The grains have to be washed several times and soaked overnight before they can be steamed.

Big smiles at Big Brother Mouse, a non-profit organisation that distributes Lao books to rural villages. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Give back with your time

Started in 2006, Big Brother Mouse is a locally run organisation that publishes books and distributes them to villages. Not only can you sponsor a library, a book party or buy Lao books in the shop to take to villages, you can help out at their English language sessions. Eager locals, especially young adults, attend to practice their English conversation. It’s a great way to learn more about Laos and for Lao people to learn about your country. Sessions run daily; just drop in at either 9 a.m. or 5 p.m. You don’t need to bring anything (they have some books and maps), although pictures of your family or country would be interesting.

A Lao weaver proudly displays her silk textiles. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

One thread at a time

Laos boasts beautiful handicrafts. You can’t appreciate patience and time until you’ve seen an artisan working at his or her craft. In fact, it’s not uncommon to hear that a single handwoven textile with an intricate pattern has taken a month to complete. In Luang Prabang, while you can see the pieces being made, you can also try your own hand at creating one. Learn how to dye fabric naturally, weave, draw Hmong batiks, paint silk or make paper. Or, if you’re all thumbs, numerous shops sell locally made textiles and crafts.

An unhurried rural hill village just outside of Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Experience village life

Less than an hour outside of town, you are out in rural countryside. Go trekking and stay in a village to experience the simple life, where even electricity is a luxury. Phone? Internet? Forget about it. Think of it as a detox from Facebook and all other distractions of the modern world. Experience what it’s like to grow and raise your own food, bathe at a tap, cook over an open fire and dine with a local family. After a long, refreshing day of walking, crawl into your sleeping bag, but prepare to wake when the rooster crows.

The early morning alms ceremony in Luang Prabang, Laos is an important Buddhist tradition that should be respected. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Wake up early. Really early.

Every day at dawn, monks walk through town collecting alms from humble locals. The alms-giving ceremony is an important ritual in Luang Prabang. The sight of hundreds of monks clad in brilliant orange robes lined up to receive food is truly breathtaking. But the ceremony is in danger of becoming a tourist spectacle, with some people behaving badly to get that perfect photo. Be respectful: dress appropriately, maintain your distance and be quiet. Read the etiquette and guidelines for the alms-giving ceremony in Luang Prabang.

Thinking of travelling to Luang Prabang and around Laos? Plan your trip with Teamworkz, the whl.travel local partner in Laos.

There are lessons to be learned from time-lapse photography about the beauty of slow travel. Park yourself somewhere and stay awhile. Be still. Go for long exposure. Reconsider time, stretch it, condense it and watch its flow. Leave a place with a long time-lapse memory of it rather than a handful of sporadic snapshot seconds.

We’ve asked our local partners from all over the world for time-lapse footage that moves them. In these long-exposure windows to the world, you can see what slow travel and time-lapse cameras reveal – both the constants and flux of a place over time.

Three Suns – Tatlong Araw, Philippines

“The new Philippine tourism tagline ‘It’s more fun in the Philippines’ could be applied to our sunsets – ‘Sunsets are more fun in the Philippines’ – as almost all of the time-lapse videos on YouTube feature our amazing sunset skylines. The first section of this video features White Beach in Boracay, which is consistently voted one of the top 10 beaches in the world. The time lapse captures the relaxed pace of visitors to the island.”
~ Trudy Allen, the whl.travel local connection in Boracay, Philippines

Time Lapse in Barcelona, Spain

“This time-lapse montage of Barcelona covers both the major must-sees and hidden street scenes of Barcelona. It shows the flow of pedestrian traffic and the light that breathes itself into the city at nightfall. One detail that time lapse exposes is the way people pause in front of Barcelona’s greatest works of art.”
~ Christian Petzold, of www.bcn.travel, the whl.travel local connection in Barcelona, Spain

October in Luang Prabang, Laos

“It’s often said that Laos is 20-30 years behind the rest of Southeast Asia and that Luang Prabang is a place stuck in time. This time-lapse video captures the graceful timelessness of the UNESCO World Heritage town, the ebb and flow of the Mekong River and the stoic mountains that surround it.”
~ Cindy Fan of Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Luang Prabang, Laos

Last 2011 Sunrise over Dingli, Malta

“In the Dingli Cliffs on the west coast of Malta, the quietness and peacefulness of the rural area is reflected perfectly in this lovely sunrise. Outside the busy commercial centres like Valletta and St. Julian’s, life in the rural parts of Malta (like Dingli) runs at a slower pace. The slow, deliberate rhythm of the locals creates a sense of contentedness and harmony.”
~ Marco Attard of EC Meetings, the whl.travel local connection in Malta

Time Lapse of Phnom Penh City, Cambodia

“As the video creator describes, ‘Phnom Penh is a city moving into the 21st century at an astonishing rate…. Where the west had decades for society to progress in parallel with technology, Cambodian people are trying to squeeze that progression into just a few years. This video represents the pace at which this city is changing.’

Even when slowed down, through the video you’ll experience how chaotic Phnom Penh is. Watch for the scenes of traffic at night and from the back of a tuk-tuk. It’ll give you a taste of how exciting driving through the city is.”
~ Cindy Fan of Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Karuskose of Soomaa, Estonia

“This is Soomaa, Estonia, during the ‘Fifth Season’ of April, as captured over the course of an entire month from a webcam at our base camp at Karuskose.”
~ Aivar Ruukel, a Gunyah local partner in Soomaa, Estonia

Time Lapse in Hanoi, Vietnam

This is a fascinating portrayal of traffic and street life in Hanoi, Vietnam. “Slow travel is all about local immersion, and there is no better way to immerse yourself than buying or renting a motorbike and getting out there with the locals on the streets of Hanoi.”
~ Luke Ford, CEO of Gunyah, in Hanoi, Vietnam

Corcovado – Time Lapse in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

“Here is a slow-moving capture of the Christ the Redeemer monument in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. This video does a good job demonstrating why this world-famous icon has been named as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.”
~ Luiz Renato Malcher, the whl.travel local connection in Rio de Janiero, Brazil

Dusk-to-Dawn Time Lapse in Bangkok, Thailand

“Bangkok is where East truly meets West, where modern order collides with creative chaos and where, with help from the tropical heat, tradition melts in with the new. The city can only be described as an experience.

There’s an unapologetic exuberance to Bangkok – which is why it can be overwhelming, even for someone who has travelled there before. That’s why these time-lapsed videos are so mesmerising. The city is seemingly unpredictable, but slow it down and you’ll see how Bangkok rhythmically pulses with life and energy, how it moves to its own steady heartbeat.”
~ Cindy Fan of Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Bangkok, Thailand

Time Lapse on Apparition Hill, Medjugorje, Bosnia-Herzegovina

“I like this video because it reflects the true highlight of Medjugorje: the pilgrimage to our Shrine of Peace. It shows the feelings of peace of oneness with God while climbing the hills. As you are stepping up the path, you see extraordinary white clouds drawn against the totally blue sky; you feel as if you are not alone. You could sit there for hours. You feel loved and not forgotten, and everything that makes you feel small seems to vanish.”
~ Zana R-Bilal, the whl.travel local partner in Medjugorje, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Time Lapse in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

“Here are two different sunset city-scapes in time lapse from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. Although the city of Kota Kinabalu moves with the fast pace of modernity, you can find sleepy towns, villages, and coasts that are lost in time just outside the urban area.”
~ Jessica Peters, the whl.travel local partner in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

Beira-Mar Time Lapse, Florianópolis, Brazil

“This video reflects a new phase that Florianópolis is going through. Just about three decades ago, although it was already the capital city of Santa Catarina State, Floripa was just an island with bucolic fishing villages sprinkled on the different beaches. Fortunately the island still preserves this aspect of itself, but the city centre of the island is now very cosmopolitan. It matches the rhythm of any major Brazilian capital city. My favourite part of the video is how the beauty of the nature, the ocean, the small boats and the mountains combine with the rush and chaos of the city center.”
~ Renata Asprino, the whl.travel local connection in Florianópolis, Brazil

Time Lapse in Kathmandu, Nepal

“This video was shot locally by a friend and former colleague, Rishikesh. He has won awards like ‘The Best Creative Youth’ at the Crity Awards, Nepal‘s most prestigious award ceremony in the field of advertisement, in 2010. Rishi was a key member of our whl.travel Nepal team until about March 2010.”
~ Navin M. Shrestha, the whl.travel local partner in Nepal

Sunset Time Lapse, Solomon Islands

“A brief and elegant capture of a sunset in Ghizo, Solomon Islands.”
~ Kerrie Kennedy, the whl.travel local connection in Solomon Islands

Istanbul, Turkey, in 7000 Frames

“I liked this piece’s romantic pictures of old Stamboul, but what this video fails to capture is the notion of living in Istanbul! The city has over 16 million inhabitants, which don’t make enough of an appearance here. You have to come and spend some time in the city to feel the reality of that size and pace.”
~ Gerardo Oude Hergelink, Istanbul, Turkey

Cambodian Sun over Siem Reap

“I can’t think of many places that inspire more of a sense of awe than Angkor Wat at sunrise, which is why ‘sunrise at Angkor Wat’ comes up high up on many travellers’ lists of things to do in Siem Reap, Cambodia. There’s a special moment just before the sun breaks and the sky vividly displays the colours of dawn, gradually changing from pitch black through various shades of red, orange, pink and purple.”
~ Thomas Holdo Hansen, the whl.travel local connection in Siam Reap, Cambodia

My name is Markus Neuer and I lead the Tiger Trail team in Luang Prabang, Laos. Born in Germany, I always had a passion for adventure and travelling but, even more important, for other people. Through our Fair Trek in Laos projects, I have found a way to perfectly combine community work with tourism and bring people together from all over the world to work with Lao communities.

The views are spectacular on a half-day Tiger Trail mountain trek in Nong Khiaw, in the Luang Prabang province of northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Our team is international, yet all working and living in Luang Prabang. A big part of our company is regular interns, volunteers and students giving support. Our team members are currently from the US, Thailand, France, Germany and of course Laos. Tiger Trail was founded in 2000. I took over the company in 2008, and with the help of our incredible team it has become what it is today. We currently employ about 50 full-time staff members.

My Inspiration, Our Inspiration

I believe that the world is not fairly developed and even its most beautiful landscapes can be the stage for poverty and degradation. I aim to approach these problems by seeking a better way. We make an impact through an ongoing effort to care for the community and our environment, while enjoying the beauty and diversity of the world itself. If everybody would do this, we could have a better world, not just better adventures.

Tourists work alongside villagers harvesting rice near Huay Fai village (about 20 kilometres from Luang Prabang), Laos, during one of the Fair Trek tours offered by Tiger Trail. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Fair Trek Is a Key Part of Our Adventure Travel Company

Fair Trek in Laos is an innovative community-based-tourism project aiming to assist in the development of communities in need. In return, it allows visitors to have access to remote villages by trekking, biking and kayaking, to learn and absorb different cultural experiences in Laos. Fair Trek is the first responsible-tourism project in Luang Prabang, and has been recognised widely as an example of community-based responsible tourism in the Mekong sub-region.

Fair Trek Was First Founded in 2007

I initiated Fair Trek in cooperation with local nongovernmental organisations and the government. It resulted from striking and obvious needs that I have experienced myself during normal treks through surrounding communities and in other countries. After the initiative had been started up, reviewed and adjusted, the operation of the Fair Trek project in Luang Prabang was transferred and is now partly run locally by the Provincial Tourism Department and a pool of operators, raising awareness toward development of tourism and community alike.

After years of development, Tiger Trail has continued to spread the Fair Trek initiative out to other areas of northern Laos, Nong Khiaw and Muang. Tiger Trail is also adopting the philosophy of “voluntourism” for an ecological school project, The Clay School Project, benefiting both the Fair Trek communities and volunteers.

Each tour that is within the Fair Trek project pays into a community fund! Depending on the setup, the funds are handled by local government institutions or the communities directly. The village funds are raised from each Fair Trek tour allowing each visitor to have an impact. Villagers are able to submit a request for needed financing, or propose their ideas on how to invest in improvements and development that benefits the whole community. A great side effect has been created through visitors who wish to assist more through donations. Through this the communities can achieve additional support through the awareness that Fair Trek provides to them.

The Villagers Also Benefit Directly

The villagers make an income selling food and accommodation, as well as traditional self-made handicrafts to the visitors. Individual villagers can earn from guiding around the communities and from helping out in tourism activities. Rental fees for land, blankets, cooking material and other assisting services also contribute to the local income. Our tours are not only “fair” in terms of money; they also preserve local culture and traditions. Having visitors gives the villagers an opportunity to spread and preserve their traditional performances and practices such as singing, dancing and playing local music.

Insider Tip

If you are coming our direction, give us a visit. Luang Prabang is a provincial capital city of Laos, where time still seems to stand still. Take a waterfall trek at Kuang Si and hang out on the Mekong to enjoy the stunning view. Also I recommend you visit Big Tree Café for a great photography exhibition and enjoy some locally grown coffee at either JoMa or Saffron Café, both engaged in social projects in the region. (Get more of the inside word on Luang Prabang.)

Volunteers work with locals to construct the foundation, columns and roof of the Clay School in Ban Naluang, near Nong Khiaw, in northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Attractions in and around Luang Prabang are diverse, including various waterfalls, caves, ethnic minorities, textiles and handicrafts, elephant rides and mahout elephant-care experiences. As part of the UNESCO World Heritage reconstruction plan, new buildings have been limited and old houses and streets received refurbishment to keep Luang Prabang a magical place. The most practical way to explore the city is by bike or on a walk. It’s really that small! On our various tours, selected sights and highlights can be combined on day trips and offer individual experiences with experienced and friendly guides.

For a short note on local weather: dry season lasts generally from October through April and wet season comes from the beginning of May to September. BUT I personally love and recommend the rainy season with its lush tropical green and powerful rain showers – it’s spectacular. Yearly average temperature is around 28°C, but it can fall to 15°C or 10°C during the cold season and even lower in the mountains.

The village ("ban") of Naluang, northern Laos, set amidst a stunning backdrop of karst mountains and lush jungle. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

View from Office Window

Well, there’s not much to see but at least we see most of the visitors as they fly into Luang Prabang airport, just about 300 metres from our office. We also have a decent view of a metal shop and a cement work space on the opposite side of the road.

Thanks to Markus for sending this through to us! If you’re interested in experiencing one of their fantastic trips, why not try Trekking in the Jungle or Living as a “Mahout” on an elephant sanctuary. Opportunities also exist for those interested in Volunteering in a Traditional Akha Village or Helping to Build a Clay School for a Small Village in Laos.

This Buddha statue was added to the Wat Phou complex in Champasak, Laos, when it was converted to Theravada Bhuddism at the turn of the 14th century. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Adam63

Surrounding the temple complex is the province of Champasak, once a bustling region of enormous historical significance, both political and spiritual, as it was a seat of Khmer imperial power. Today, however, within a stone’s throw of Wat Phou, the little colonial town of Champasak, a quaint village with French colonial-era buildings, sees little intrusion from outsiders and displays none of the area’s immense 13th-century splendour. The ruins nevertheless continue to attract pilgrims and visitors, who marvel at the ancient stone sculptures and majestic carved boulders.

A Well-Deserved Status

In 2001, due to their unique cultural significance and beauty, the Wat Phou ruins were classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This status sparked renewed interest from the Lao government, and, since 2007, both the Lao Information Ministry and the French Cultural Ministry are engaged in archaeological studies, as well as renovation of both the structures and their decorative engravings.

A carved boulder depicting a crocodile was supposedly used to perform human sacrifices over a 1,000 years ago at the Wat Phou complex in Champasak, Laos, before the beginning of the Khmer Empire. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Mattun0211

The 390-square-kilometre complex – which includes the smaller Tao Tao, Nang Sida and Tomo temples – is exceptional testimony of the Khmer practice of Hinduism. In addition to the surviving stone-carved evidence of this dating back to the 6th century, the site itself perfectly portrays the Hindu vision of symbiosis between nature and the human soul, the temples being isolated within the confines of the forest.

This unique natural sanctity is enhanced by the alignment of the edifices at the lower and middle levels of the complex with the mountain summit. Nowadays, the bottom-to-top climb holds tremendous spiritual significance to Buddhists, who leave prayers and offerings on the way up and at the temple on top of the hill.

Divine Natural Manifestations

The great Phu Kao Mountain looms over the site and is believed to be one of the primary reasons for the establishment of Wat Phou. The mountain’s silhouette is said to resemble a linga, a universal symbol of Lord Shiva, and a river descending from the mountaintop symbolises the stream of life that flows from Lord Shiva’s head (mimicking the reasons for the reverence of Mount Kailash in Tibet). Fittingly, an abundance of tales and folklore illustrates the divine powers that lie in these grounds: the temple is said to have cured people made wretched by illnesses and brought prosperity to those who sought blessings.

Looking back towards the Mekong river from the top of the hill where the main Wat Phou sanctuary is located in Champasak, Laos. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/mattun0211

After so many centuries, the surrounding voracious forest seems to be reclaiming what once belonged to it; trees and dense vegetation encroach on and around the grounds of the site. The effect is incredible, full of unexpected beauty. “From a tourist perspective, you walk up the centuries-old stone staircase of Wat Phou, under the frangipani trees that push directly out of the rock, to emerge before panoramic views of the surrounding area,” recalls Lee Sheridan, General Manager of Teamworkz, the whl.travel local travel connection in Laos. “The bird’s-eye view from the top of the hill takes in the temple ruins below, which are assumed to be prayer rooms. Beyond this you have two lakes, beyond which the Mekong River drifts silently past.”

Definite Must-See in Laos

Wat Phou is best enjoyed over a few days, and the best bet for nearby accommodation is in the town of Champasak. That said, a day trip can also be made from Pakse, the largest city in southern Laos.

In addition to the site’s clear historical appeal, a trip to the ruins is essential for visitors with spiritual inclinations: the calm surroundings, the inherent mysticism and few visitors make it a great place to meditate. “Wat Phou is primarily a pilgrimage place,” explains Alexandre Tsuk, Managing Director of the Inthira Group, which manages the Inthira Hotel, an excellent-value lodging set in a former Chinese shop house in Champasak town. “You can buy flowers to offer at the temple and you don t have the impression you’re in a tourist site at all.”

This carved pediment on the south side of the sanctuary at Wat Phou in Champasak, Laos, shows Krishna killing Kamsa and dates from the site's early days as a Hindu site. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Markalexander100

After exploring the ancient ruins, a visit to the on-site museum reveals sculptures and relics removed from their original locations in the complex to avoid destruction from erosion.

Travellers with a few days to spare might enjoy arriving at the site after three tranquil days on a Mekong River boat cruise to Wat Phou. A full moon at Wat Phou is also special, as 10,000 candles are spread at night over the ancient ruins. This is in contrast to the first week of February, when the annual multi-day Wat Phou Festival brings the normally quiet site alive with ceremonies, games and processions of monks. Throughout the year, more adventurous travellers can join guided explorations of caves found on Phu Kao Mountain.

To plan a real local experience in Wat Phou, get in touch with Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos. They’ll help you make the best of Wat Phou, but if you’ve got more time, also try other travel adventures in Champasak.

The situation in parts of Laos is particularly tragic. This is not a region that most of the world normally recognises as having been affected by the Vietnam war. While officially confined to Laos’ neighbour, tremendous volumes of bombs were also dropped on the dense forest Laos in an attempt by the US government to disrupt the activity of the Viet Cong.

The effectiveness of this strategy from a military perspective was, at best, debatable, but the toll on the lives of the native Laotian people is one that continues to rise. Dormant bombs maim and kill to this day, despite the best efforts of those who attempt to recover and deactivate such devices.

peaceBOMB – a joint venture between the RISE Project, responsible fashion company Article 22 and local Laotian artisans – aims to raise awareness of the ongoing situation in Laos. To do so, they make use of metal reclaimed from actual bombs to fashion items for sale. The project channels funds directly to Laotian communities affected by the problem and makes the most of the expert metalworking techniques that local craftsmen have developed over the years.

This video demonstrates an exceptional attempt to raise awareness of a significant problem and the steps being taken by a local community to help themselves overcome it.

We fully support the work of peaceBOMB and urge you to spread the word about their excellent work.

In 1993, the surrounding region was declared the Nam Ha National Biodiversity Conservation Area, and since then, streams of tourists plan treks to enjoy the outdoors of Nam Ha and the culture of Laos’ ethnic groups.

Traditional farmers plant rice outside Ban Nam Lue, a small village about 15 kilometres west of Luang Namtha town in northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Conservation efforts and ecotourism projects in the area aim to pass the benefits of tourism on to the local people, yet finding the right way to moderate contact between Lao subsistence farmers and westernised tourists is not easy. Travellers want to understand and appreciate the distinct practices and customs of ethnic groups like the Akha, Khmu, Hmong and Lahu, but oftentimes they lack a solid cultural context. Of course, language too is a big barrier.

In response to this, the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang provides all visitors with the kind of well-grounded insight they seek.

Beginnings of the TAEC

The two founders of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC), Tara Gujadhur and Thongkhoun Soutthivilay, recognised a need for more easily accessible information about Laos’ diversity of cultures and ethnic groups. They began TAEC as a project in 2005 and opened doors to the public in 2007. Tara’s background in sustainable tourism development and anthropology complemented Thongkhoun’s 10 years of experience as Collection Manager at the Luang Prabang National Museum.

Inside the TAEC in Luang Namtha Laos, the local dress of the area's traditional ethnic groups and other aspects of their culture are displayed. Photo courtesy of TAEC/Kees Sprengers

More than five years later, Tara is pleased to report that support for TAEC has grown healthily. Word is spreading and now the ethnography museum is included in most guidebooks and itineraries. “Visitors are very appreciative to be learning more information about the country and people, and they’re often interested in hearing about our school activities, outreach and livelihoods work,” says Tara.

Complex Impacts

When asked about the positive effects of tourism on Laos’ ethnic groups, Tara readily lists several. She has seen how tourists can help create interest in the cultures and traditions of ethnic groups, a point of real pride within the communities. This is an important cue to the government about the importance of safeguarding ethnic heritage.

In the Hmong village of Ban Tha Luang in northern Laos, girls dress in traditional costume, play games and sing songs to celebrate the Hmong New Year. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Tourists also create demand for traditional crafts such as weaving, basketry, natural dying and woodcarving, which might otherwise slowly die out. Currently, the TAEC Museum Shop supports over 500 ethnic artisans from 12 provinces in Laos. Additionally, museum donations have gone to ethnic youth internships, village research funds and developing handicrafts with rural minority communities.

Unless programs are careful planned, however, there can be some negative consequences for tourism’s main stakeholders: the ethnic groups themselves. “Uncontrolled or poorly managed tourism and a rapid influx of new wealth can create community tension and hasten the erosion of social structures and community ties,” observes Tara. “Sometimes tourism also can exoticise, commodify or compartmentalise ethnic minorities, making villages into attractions rather than vibrant living cultures.”

The father of a Khmu family in Laos eats with his children inside their home in Ban Sopsim on the Nam Tha river. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Keeping it Positive

So how can travellers to Luang Namtha ensure that their presence is beneficial to local communities? First, you are encouraged to gain a little bit of understanding about the ethnic groups by visiting the TAEC or at least doing some background reading about local Lao cultures and traditions. Secondly, you can contribute to the economy as locally as possibly. You are strongly encouraged to buy new and locally produced handicrafts (as opposed to antiques or factory-produced souvenirs) directly from communities, small markets or fair trade stores.

It is also important to arrange tours through operators with good records. Look for agencies with solid community partnerships or those that have been designated as ‘responsible’ by independent third parties. Tours in which ethnic minorities are made to ‘dress up’ or are photographed and visited without being compensated should be avoided. Also, any tour guides who do not speak or behave respectfully to local people should be reported to their tour companies.

In many of the ethnic villages of northern Laos, the traditional housing style is a stilted hut with thatched grass roof. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Unfortunately, bad behaviour sometimes comes from locals because they think that’s what tourists want. Try not to reinforce this pattern.

Looking Ahead

As in the rest of the world, the lives of indigenous ethnic groups are changing rapidly. In Laos, faced with the forces of globalisation, subsistence farmers in rural areas often choose to leave their traditional ways of life in search of better opportunities in urban areas or abroad. Local, responsible tourism in these areas can provide them with opportunities in their home villages that impart the value of their unique cultural heritage.

What will the village life of Laos’ ethnic groups look like 50 years from now? Tara is optimistic. “These are vibrant cultures, and though they will change and evolve and perhaps be almost unrecognisable in 50 years, for the most part they will remain intact. Tourism can help to celebrate culture and create an appreciation for ethnic diversity.”

In villages such as Tai Dam, Laos, young girls learn the craft of weaving at an early age. Tourists can help maintain a demand for traditional handicrafts such as this, keeping new generations interested in learning. Photo courtesy of Kees Sprengers

Looking for a responsible trekking tour in Luang Namtha? Try a two-day or a three-day trek in the Nam Ha forests, where you’ll encounter the Akha and Khmu ethnic groups. Book through responsible tourism experts Teamworkz, the whl.travel local partner in Luang Namtha. Of course, when in Luang Prabang, be sure to visit the Traditional Arts and Ethnography Centre.

Bringing Laos alive for travellers is Tiger Trail, a leading sustainable adventure organisation that, for more than 10 years, has been promoting local development through tourism. Now, through its Fair Trek initiative that supports community-based tourism, Tiger Trail has has added a Clay School Project to its portfolio of projects benefiting local communities.

Kids gather under a stilt house (this style is very common in Lao-Lum and Khmu communities) in a Lao village where a clay schools will be built. Every time the Fair Trek team visits and works in the village, the children always gather nearby to play and watch. Photo courtesy of Fair Trek

Clay School Project

The Clay School Project aims to bring in international volunteers to support the construction of clay-brick schoolhouses. Construction efforts are initially planned in two remote Lao communities where Tiger Trail has a strong presence through a steady flow of international volunteers.

The first school is currently under construction in the village of Naluang, located in the Luang Prabang District of Nam Bak Province in northern Laos. In Naluang village, the sole existing school building is a bamboo hut only large enough for the youths from four to eight years of age. Now, in early July 2011, Fair Trek, along with community members and international volunteers, began construction of a three-classroom structure to accommodate the approximately 100 school-age youths in the area. As of the time of writing, the building’s foundation is complete, as are the adobe bricks needed for the walls. The project is expected to take two to three months.

Fair Trek team member prepared a Lao lesson of the blackboard, while the only teacher from the village was standing in the middle and trying to gather intention from the little kids. Photo courtesy of Fair Trek

The second clay-brick structure is planned for the village of Honglerk, in Khua District, Phongsali Province. Construction is scheduled to begin in November 2011.

Promoting Ecological Sustainability

For thousands of years, clay, mud and adobe have been used for the construction of buildings, particularly in parts of Asia, Africa and the Middle East. However, this practice is less common in Laos.

Although the use of sun-dried bricks made of clay soil, sand, hay and water is a novelty in Laos, for Fair Trek, the benefits of using these materials are four-fold. First, the construction materials are all natural. Second, the building will be climate-appropriate for this tropical, humid and hot region. Clay walls help to control humidity and keep heat and sound outside, resulting in a cool, quiet and comfortable learning environment. Third, the materials will be locally sourced as much as possible, and the project will rely on volunteer support, keeping construction and labour costs to a minimum. Fourth, local villagers – leaders, men, women, children and volunteers – can be involved in clay construction because there is no need for intensive training or skilled labour.

A Fair Trek team member (grey top) joined an adobe workshop at Baan Rangnok in Chiang Mai, Thailand. The seven-day workshop taught how to build a small adobe building, of around 15m2, including every step of adobe construction, from making mud bricks to painting. Photo courtesy of Fair Trek

Because of the non-traditional materials used for building the schools, obtaining government approval for construction has presented challenges, which have been turned into opportunities to promote environmental building practices. Winna Boonkham, Responsible Tourism Manager at Tiger Trail, who has participated in an earthen building workshop in Thailand for this project, interfaced with government officials. “I had to draw all benefits for them to see, including financial, environmental, social, educational benefits,” she explained.

Approvals having successfully been received, Boonkham looks forward to using Tiger Trail staff experience and training in mud building to promote a new sustainable form of construction. Local community members will naturally learn the clay building methods as part of the project: “So in the future, they may not even need us or anyone to help them build something – a library for example!” says Boonkham. At least the school “can be the model for the next mud school in Laos.”

A front view of the proposed clay-brick school, which will contain three classrooms, each with one door and four windows. The footings, foundation, columns and roof support will be concrete, but the walls will be filled with sundried-mud bricks (adobe). Standard roof tiles will be applied with wooden supports. Courtesy of Fair Trek

Broad and Beneficial Community Participation

Villagers’ participation and support of the project is central to its success. As a vital first step to realising this project, Fair Trek worked with the communities and their leaders to set up village funds, which are financial accounts created to support community initiatives. Community members then identified their most pressing needs, and with each Tiger Trail tour to the community, some of the tours proceeds are added into the account. From this first step, Fair Trek created a shared commitment with the villagers to achieve their main goal: improving educational opportunities for youth.

While the village fund will be a key source of financing for the project, another essential contribution will be the volunteer construction labour, primarily from villagers sacrificing some working hours in the field. But construction can be shared by all community hands; for example, when the men are working in the fields, the women and children can participate in the mud construction. Villagers will also provide accommodation and food for volunteers who come from abroad to help build.

A meeting between the Fair Trek team and Naluang villagers in Laos was held to introduce and demonstrate adobe construction. The result was that the villagers were interested and happy to learn and support whatever they can for the construction of this mud school. Photo courtesy of Fair Trek

The community has necessarily been at the heart of project planning too. “Since the start, they had to agree about what we are building and when, what they will have to do, what we will have to do, such as managing the space for the activities. This project will make the village so busy and full of people for the time… and they accepted that,” Boonkham said.

The Clay School Project provides a win-win experience for both the villages and volunteer travellers. More than 50 volunteers from the United Kingdom are expected to participate in the school construction in the village of Naluang to the benefit of both the communities and the volunteers: Communities receive fundraising support and extra labour power in building improved educational facilities, while volunteers receive a unique and meaningful travel experience through the opportunity to be part of the locals’ traditional rural lives and lend a hand in a community development project.

The school land and chief of Naluang village, Laos. The land is right in front of the community, and has been intended for a school for many years. The chief was proud and happy that finally the children soon will have a new school. Photo courtesy of Fair Trek

Promoting Local Culture in Laos

The clay school project is just one of the many ways Tiger Trail brings Laos’ unique culture to international visitors and supports destinations through community-based tourism.

Other include volunteering in a northern minority Akha village, participation in hospitality promotion and lodge construction projects; promotion of fair trek tourism in Luang Prabang; and support for the protection and care of endangered animals, including elephants in Luang Prabang or tigers in Phou Loi Nam Et.

Thinking of going to Laos? Contact Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Luang Prabang and throughout Laos, for tours, accommodation and a load of the kinds of hints you could only get from a local.

Upon reaching her village she began experimenting with many different designs for her instrument, using plucked and bowed strings and various types of other materials before finally settling on a type of bamboo flute. The woman brought the new instrument before the king, who, after hearing her play, curtly responded that it was ‘fair.’ Modifying the instrument, she played once more and again asked the king if he was pleased. “Tia nee kaen dae,” he said, which means “this time it was better.”

The same persistent approach to finding the right kind of sound can be heard today in the mesmerising music of Aluna, the princess of pop in Laos.

Pop singer Aluna Thavonsouk divides her time between her career as a musician and her work as general manager for Thavonsouk Resort, her family's hotel business in Vang Vieng, Laos

Creative Drive

Aluna Thavonsouk is a Lao pop singer whose contemporary musical style draws upon older techniques and often includes traditional Lao instruments. In what she calls her ‘new sound,’ she may even begin including the khene.

“I started with normal pop songs. You learn as you go and I have changed my perspectives in writing songs as well as the way of making music and melodies,” Aluna said of her creative process. “The contemporary ideas came to my soul and I mix the traditional sounds into my music a lot these days, but I am not yet satisfied with the result. I am still looking for the new sound. It might take a year or forever… I don’t know, but it is exciting to me.”

Aluna’s humble attitude – she is also the general manager of her family’s hotel business in Vang Vieng – is uncommon for a musician of her stature, but her tirelessness has paid off ever since she began creating music back in 2002. To date, she has performed in U.S. cities like Chicago, Seattle and Los Angeles, and she has toured in Japan, China, Malaysia and throughout Southeast Asia. Her self-titled albums “Aluna” (2005) and “Aluna Part II” (2008) produced many number-one singles on regional radio charts and her hit “Khaum HouSuek Bork” earned her the award for Best Pop Song at the first annual Lao Music Awards in July 2008. Even The Today Show recognised this 29-year-old artist as one of the preeminent talents of Laos’ burgeoning pop music scene.

New Sounds

Laos’ contemporary music culture has emerged from a long history of political unrest and a complex mix of cultural influences. Although romantic songs and ballads have always been popular in Laos, Western music was first introduced in the 1920s during the French colonial period, impacting a new generation of Lao singers and composers. Then, following the country’s lengthy civil war and the 1975 Communist takeover, patriotic songs and anthems dominated the charts.

Since 2000, though, when the government began to relax the country’s music regulations, Lao record companies have been eager to promote singers who appeal to younger audiences. Today, pop music is booming and local Lao artists are heard on the radio alongside other foreign singers from the U.S. and Thailand.

Aluna is at the forefront of the homegrown talents now changing the Lao music scene. Her songs incorporate the Morlum Loop and other traditional Lao music – especially the catchy fast tracks – and often include unique beats and traditional instruments. Her lyrics focus on themes of love, but she also delves into topics like the environment, social classes and many other touchy subjects.

The man depicted in this statue is playing the 'khene', the national instrument of Laos. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Prince Roy

The artist is currently learning the khene (a bamboo mouth organ with many keys) and the traditional Lao flute, not to mention practicing the Lao Opera singing style, which requires a great deal of energy and the ability to play with how one projects one’s voice.

Deep Roots

While Aluna’s contemporary style has many musical influences, the traditional music of Laos plays an important part in creating that sound: “We, the new generation, never forgot the roots of our music,” she explained.

Born and raised in Laos, Aluna was surrounded by music from a very early age and always loved to sing. “People often ask who my music idols are and I respond, ‘They are my mom and dad.’ In fact, they are the first people who opened up my world to music. During my childhood, I’d often hear my dad singing with his guitar; my mom would sing along in her free time. They loved playing songs created by legends of the 60s and 70s like Elvis, Cliff Richards, The Beatles and The Carpenters, among many others. Those early experiences were so cool. Every now and then, I carry some of those old songs with me and sing along. Some people are surprised by my knowledge of old songs.”

When Aluna was young, there were always instruments around the house on which she could practice. (Her father was a musician.) At just five years old, she picked up her first instrument – a guitar.

“At that age, it was much bigger than my body and too big for me to hold, so I held it on my lap and played. I was always curious about how musical instruments produce sounds and how those sounds turn into different keys and notes. The guitar, keyboard and the harmonica were my favourites. With my mind’s empty canvas, I tried to differentiate the sounds, keys and notes using only my senses.” She did not study music, however, and never had professional training because it was too expensive.

“My childhood experience with music was so wonderful and peaceful that I knew I’d always want to be around it. Though I had been surrounded by music from a young age, I never thought of becoming a professional singer – that dream never existed.”

Life Changes

Meanwhile, Aluna excelled in her studies and received a scholarship to study abroad at a university in Australia. She graduated with a bachelor’s degree in business and returned to Laos to work at Thavonsouk Resort, her family’s business in Vang Vieng. Still, something was missing and she longed for the next adventure in her life. So, during the tourism low season, she took three months off from her job to travel to Europe. “That trip changed my life,” the singer reported matter-of-factly.

Music in Laos today comes in many styles. This photo of a percussion band was taken at the Bee Mai Lao Festival in 2002. Photo courtesy of Flickr/NeilsPhotography

Arriving in Paris in the early morning of June 21, 2002, Aluna noticed that a festival was in progress. “I heard music along the road, and I saw people spontaneously come out and play music. They sang about everything using their guitars, saxophones, trumpets, harmonicas and accordions. They were everywhere – on roadsides, in the Metro and on almost every corner I walked past. I was so happy to be in this amazing environment. I felt like I was brought back to something familiar, but also something that I was missing for some time. It was great to hear music again.”

That event was France’s Fête de La Musique (Music Festival), which offered Aluna the chance to see shows by musicians such as Lenny Kravitz, Sheryl Crow, R.E.M., Bryan Adams and many other legendary artists.

“It was so inspiring!” the singer recalled. “I was about to celebrate my birthday a few days later and I truly felt that witnessing this event was one of the most precious gifts ever… I tuned in and silently listened, and in that moment, I felt like a bolt of lightening struck me. It was in that moment that my dream was born. I said to myself, ‘Yes, why don’t I create music? Why don’t I sing?!’ ”

Since then, Aluna has moved from strength to strength and encouraged others to follow their hearts. “There are many ways to realise your dreams and true passions,” she revealed. “Free your mind and look deep down into your heart, because sometimes ideas don’t come right away. Part of the journey is to develop and grow by following your passion.”

For more information about Aluna, visit her facebook page.

Luang Prabang, once the royal capital of ‘The Kingdom of a Million Elephants,’ retains the beauty of its regal and French colonial past. Well-preserved buildings and a plethora of glittering Buddhist temples nestle at the confluence of two picturesque rivers and against a backdrop of densely forested mountains. The natural beauty and architectural preservation earned the town a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1995. Since then, development has been carefully restricted to the joy of a steady flow of foreign visitors keen to explore the town’s charms.

What better way to explore the jungles and forests around Luang Prabang, Laos, than from the regal perch atop an elephant? Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Exploring the laneways and riverbanks on foot or by bike, admiring the golden temples and chatting with friendly novice monks eager to improve their conversational English are some of the best ways to enjoy the relaxing vibe of Luang Prabang. Of the many splendid temples, the most famous is Wat Xieng Thong, where stunning, intricate mosaics portray temple myths and scenes of every day domestic life. Other attractions include a royal palace, now the National Museum, and the compact but fascinating Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre. A sunrise or sunset climb to the top of the town-centre’s hill, Mount Phousy promises wonderful views of the town and its setting.

Day Trips

With so much to do in Luang Prabang, we’d need more space to recommend everything. First up would have to be a cooking class with us at Tamarind. There is no better way to get insight into the local culture than through a trip to the market and lesson about Lao food.

Anyone looking for a bit more adventure must try some elephant trekking; booking through a responsible local operator is essential, of course, and we recommend the Elephant Park in Ban Xieng Lom.

Finally, if you yearn for beautiful, photogenic scenery, a trip out to Kuang Si Waterfalls is a must.

Shopping

Be sure to leave space in your bag for the great mementos to be found shopping in Luang Prabang. The main street transforms after dusk into a wonderland of bright colours at the Night Market.  Amidst the Beer Lao t-shirts, fisherman pants and imported cheap products, you will find handwoven Lao silk scarves in jewel colours, hilltribe crafts of naïve embroidery and handmade bed linen in traditional ethnic patterns.

The night market is a central feature of Luang Prabang, Laos, and a source for some good bargains, as well as some fine handmade local crafts. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

For more upmarket fair-trade local crafts and products, seek out retail outlets OckPopTok, Caruso Lao and Kopnoi.

Around town, keep an eye out for Mulberry “sa paper,” strewn with leaves and flowers, often fashioned into albums and paper lanterns. Silver is another regional speciality, delicately worked by former royal silversmiths. You can also find an excellent range of jewellery and ritual objects.

Restaurants

Dining options range from street stands to fine eateries and restaurants in Luang Prabang. If you’ve got a strong stomach and adventurous spirit, try the night market takeaway food: grilled fish, meats and spicy local delicacies. Daytime stalls outside the post office provide excellent value-filled baguettes.

For mid-range dining, try Tamarind, our user-friendly introduction to Lao cuisine, and Big Tree on the Mekong for tasty Korean. Coconut Garden is airy and attractive with an extensive menu of Lao and western dishes, while Joma Bakery caters to those seeking the comfort of Western food and le Banneton has a selection of French patisserie treats.

Splurge at Blue Lagoon for international cuisine, L’Elephant Vert for vegetarian raw food or Apsara, renowned for their fish in tamarind sauce.

Local Treats

For a delightful walk, follow the peninsula shoreline along the Mekong riverside road, past the confluence with the Nam Khan River and back into town along that bank. This affords wonderful glimpses of Luang Prabang domestic life. In the dry season you will see locals working their prolific vegetable plots in the rich riverbank soil. The laneways within this Old Quarter, particularly on late afternoons and weekends, reveal intimate scenes of the relaxed social life of residents against a background of fascinating architecture.

As part of Tamarind's Cooking Course, a trip to the local market in Luang Prabang, Laos, often includes a glimpse into the more traditional life of the local population. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Foodies must not skip a sindad, the local cook-it-yourself meal that is a cross between Korean barbecue and Chinese steamboat. You can identify restaurants specialising in this highly popular cuisine by the stone tables with central cavities for the cooking fire.

Lastly, though no visit to Luang Prabang seems complete without observing the monks’ dawn almsgiving ritual, it has sadly become something of a tourist circus. By all means observe respectfully by keeping out of the way of locals and monks and not buying rice from the insistent street sellers.

Night Out

With an official curfew of 11:30pm, Luang Prabang is hardly a wild all-night party town. However, behind Mount Phousy, you will find a variety of bars and drinking establishments dedicated to good times. Hive, the longest established, has an ethnic fashion show followed by talented local teens dancing hip-hop. Nearby is Lao Lao Garden with an open fire, extensive menu and inexpensive cocktails. Other popular spots are the tropical Utopia, which looks like a setting for Survivor, and the fun new Lao Lao Karma Bar. On the main drag, look for the compact Pack Luck Wine Bar or along the Nam Khan River try the scenically located Blue Ice, both expat favourites.

Desperate to beat the curfew? Head to the fluoro-lit bowling alley. It serves Beer Lao and is open until late. Dancing is also possible at the Dao Fa, a local club packed with youngsters that plays western techno. Or, join locals at a Lao disco: Muang Swa has a live band playing Lao dance favourites. It’s fascinating to watch, easy to learn and always fun to join in.

Organised rugby in Laos gives children, boys and girls alike, a chance to participate in competitive sports. Often, it reaches kids that are institutionally excluded from such opportunities. Photo by Jacob Cawthorne

I started playing rugby in 2003. It was my first year at Princeton University and I missed being a part of a team. I had always been drawn to contact sports and played American football and ice hockey in school. Rugby brought together the elements of those sports I loved: contact, teamwork, communication, intensity and non-stop action.

At Princeton I was a part of a successful squad that made it to the US national collegiate semifinals twice during my run. Though we didn’t take home the title, we won big games along the wa, and used our teamwork, communication and smarts to beat out stronger opponents from universities twice or three times our size. Now my journey with rugby has brought me to the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, where I am Operations Manager at the Lao Rugby Federation (LRF), which oversees the sport and provides a valuable community outreach service.

A Short History of Rugby in Laos

The French brought rugby to the region in the 1960s and the sport was quickly taken up in major Lao institutions such as the National University of Laos and the Lao Army, whose squads were able to achieve success on the regional stage, beating the national team of Thailand and touring sides from Hong Kong. While rugby activities then went dormant during periods of domestic unrest in the 1980s and early/mid-1990s, a motivated group of Lao and expat rugby lovers put the sport back on the map in the late 1990s. They started games of touch rugby open to the community. As interest and participation grew, the games eventually turned into contact rugby, which, in order to compete in tournaments throughout the region, eventually led to the formation in 1988 of the Vientiane Buffalos rugby club.

In response to burgeoning interest in the sport, in 2001 the Lao Rugby Federation was founded to provide a formal framework for all rugby union activities taking place in the Lao PDR, whether in the context of school, community or domestic and elite international rugby development. Now in its 10th year, the LRF has seen tremendous growth, not only in programming and capital, but also in the local capacity to administer the sport to a high international level. The LRF is a full member of the Asian Rugby Football Union (ARFU) and an associate member of the International Rugby Board (IRB). Most importantly, the LRF has achieved full recognition from the Government of Laos and the National Sports Committee.

Local Inroads and Enthusiasm

The local response to rugby has been a warm one. Of course, it is challenging to introduce a new sport in an area where football (soccer) is king, but the unique aspects of rugby (scrums and line-outs, rucks and mauls) are interesting to the public, and the social nature of the sport at all levels resonates well with the Lao ethic of community, friendship and fun. As school and community rugby outreach activities have taken place over the course of a decade, and as the LRF hosts more international tournaments and events, the sport has attracted a solid following and now boasts widespread support from individuals, Lao institutions, local businesses and the government.

Of particular value to the LRF is the coaching it has been doing in nine schools in and around the capital city of Vientiane, as well as at the National Drug Rehabilitation Centre. This is an exciting time, as new generations are graduating from school and passing through community rugby projects to make an impact on rugby as players and leaders in local clubs and on national sides. In 2010, 54 percent of the Men’s Senior National Team, 75 percent of the Women’s Senior National Team and 87 percent of the U20s Boys Junior National Team were graduates of the LRF’s school and community rugby development projects.

Grinning Lao boys give their all to keeping the rugby ball in motion. Photo by Jacob Cawthorne

More energy and resources will continue to be put into outreach initiatives targeted at Lao institutions such as the Institute of Physical Education, Lao Army, Lao Police and the National University, with an aim to develop more domestic clubs, a key criterion for full membership in the International Rugby Board.

Rugby and the Community

The heart of the LRF’s community programming is Champa Ban Rugby, which works to counteract the exclusion of children from recreational sporting activities by providing safe, fun and secure environments for participation in rugby union. Sadly, a significant portion of the Lao PDR’s youth population has no access to learning about the importance of healthy living and fitness, or life lessons such as teamwork, trust, respect, discipline and communication through recreational sporting. The capacity of many teachers to deliver quality physical education is low, especially in rural areas. Only the most athletically gifted are given the opportunity to play organised sports, and the play is highly competitive. Moreover, there are also especially few sporting opportunities available to young women.

In response to this, the LRF provides girls and boys with the chance to play, be healthy and form friendships through sport, whilst realising personal development opportunities to the fullest. This is accomplished through weekly in-house rugby training sessions at nine schools and the National Drug Rehabilitation Centre, bi-monthly community rugby sessions held on weekends at a central location in Vientiane, weekend-long summer residential camps and the Champa Ban Rugby League – all of which are organised, administered and coached by local Lao staff.

Rugby teaches young Lao girls the importance of healthy living and fitness or life lessons such as teamwork, trust, respect, discipline and communication. Photo by Jacob Cawthorne

Travellers and Volunteers Welcome!

Travellers are warmly invited to get involved in the LRF’s activities. Events are advertised on the LRF Facebook page and the Lao Rugby Federation homepage, as well as in the Vientiane Times, and travellers are always welcome to attend training sessions and competitions. Anyone who would like to have a run with LRF teams should contact the LRF office, which will connect them to the Buffalos, Wild Hogs or Lions club teams.

The LRF even welcomes travellers as short-term volunteers when hosting events such as the Vientiane International 10s, a club rugby tournament that draws men’s and women’s teams from across the region. The LRF is equally keen to partner with travellers who have expertise in specific areas such as graphic design, videography or sports medicine, to name a few.

Finally, I encourage visitors in Vientiane to stop by our office and meet the staff. Donations can be made at the office, where official LRF merchandise can also be purchased. The proceeds of all merchandise sales go directly to grassroots rugby development in Laos.

The Rugby-whl.travel Local Connection

Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos, has long been a supporter of rugby development in the Lao PDR, not only as a sponsor but through financial contributions that helped the LRF develop enough administrative capacity to facilitate rugby’s expansion in Laos.

The co-ed group of young Lao athletes that make up Vientiane's community team cheerfully gather for a group photo. Photo by Jacob Cawthorne

There’s also a strong personal commitment. Lee Sheridan, General Manager at Teamworkz, is a long-time member of the Lao PDR Men’s National Team, while Mouksy Vongsouvath, who works on the booking staff for Teamworkz, is a well-established member of the Lao PDR Women’s National Team and President of the Vientiane Lions Women’s Rugby Football Club.

Both Mr. Sheridan and Ms. Mouksy have made great contributions to the sport in their home country. As a member of the Lao PDR National Team, Sheridan has seen victories in the Mekong Cup Series titles versus Cambodia in 2009 and 2010, and won the HSBC Asian 5 Nations Regional Tournament in 2009 and 2010 with victories over Cambodia and Brunei.

Ms. Mouksy has taken home the bronze medal for Women’s Rugby 7s at the 2007 Southeast Asian Games (SEA Games) and is a trailblazer in women’s rugby in the Lao PDR, leading her team, the Vientiane Lions, to success in major competitions in Thailand, Cambodia and in Laos.

I made personal acquaintance with Sheridan through the LRF. He started playing rugby in school, retired due to injury when he was 18 and was one of the people who started the contact rugby games in the early 2000s that led to the establishment of the LRF.

“There are few structured sports opportunities for youth in Laos outside of elite competition,” says Sheridan. “The LRF has been doing a great job through their schools and community outreach programs to engage young Lao people and not only promoting rugby, but also the health, fitness, teamwork, cooperation and respect that is associated with the game.”