Long long ago, most tribal groups were nomadic due to a lack of stable food supplies. These ancient itinerant practices exist to this today, especially in places like Kyrgyzstan, in Central Asia, where 'yurts' or transportable houses are still in use, like those seen below near Tash-Rabat. Photo courtesy of Dostuck-Trekking

To the well-intentioned traveler, though, ‘green’ labels can be a bit vague, a tinted title that has been taken to mean a host of things, not all of them positive. Faced with growing concerns about ‘greenwashing’ and tongue-twisting turns of phrase like ‘sustainable eco nature adventures,’ the average person is left wondering what a green leaf means on hotel pamphlets.

Similarly, tips for ‘green living’ can be found in most magazines nowadays, but not always with clear objectives. Does not washing your towels really make that much of a difference? Is switching off your lights really going to save the planet? What makes green hotels truly ‘green’?

To answer that, we first need to look at what it means to be sustainable.

How Do Things Look Today?

These days, green initiatives are usually taken to mean those where the practice either has a positive or neutral (anything except negative) effect on the natural environment. But while the protection of natural resources is a vital preoccupation, sustainability means a lot more than saving our planet’s trees.

Local and indigenous communities across the planet often suffer in the shadow of hard-impact mass-market tourism. While the proceeds from tourism may, generally speaking, bring in capital and sometimes even increase peace and stability, local people are sometimes hard pressed to see the benefits. The lion’s share of profits are shipped abroad to foreign stakeholders while local people are even frequently overlooked as staff, tour guides or regional experts. Those that do succeed in pushing through any obstacles are usually then not given the opportunity to rise to positions of higher-level (managerial or supervisory) responsibility, roles reserved for foreign nationals.

A favourite activity of many Solomon Islands visitors is a fishing trip guided by local people. With them, one can experience a way of life long forgotten in the modern word. Photo by Kerry Kennedy, courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

With some bitterness, local people see their cultures bought and sold in front of them, often returned in with no resemblance to the centuries-old traditions that drew in tourists in the first place.

What Is Sustainability?

To me, sustainability is synonymous with responsible economic and social development, even as it is applied to tourism. Clearly there is no catch-all phrase able to determine whether the place in which you are staying deserves the title of being ‘green,’ but sustainability can certainly be measured in terms of an accommodation’s or tour’s effect on the health of the environment, energy consumption, the promotion of local culture and heritage, the distribution of profits, labour force vitality and even the quality and nature of building materials.

The list doesn’t stop there, especially since the notion of sustainability is one that evolves as quickly as new technologies and the circumstances through which they are brought to light.

Nevertheless I’ve tried to compile some basics to help add to a discussion about the definition of sustainable tourism. It is important to remember that each destination is unique and has different sustainability requirements. The following chart should therefore be looked at as a review of general trends in sustainable travel and ecotourism, not as a checklist.

Ecotourism Destinations

With these factors in mind, the question becomes: where to go? The following are some places that have made important strides toward sustainability and cultural immersion without compromising on comfort. Of course, travelling is all about forging your own path outside your daily routine, so always still keep make sure that your choice of accommodation fits your needs as well as those of the host country.

Green in the City
* Near Amsterdam, the Ilma Yoga House is located inside the Gaasperplas Nature Reserve just 20 minutes from the city centre by bicycle. On site you can enjoy host Ilma’s massage and yoga studios. She donates 10 percent of all her proceeds to charity.

* Located in the heart of Buenos Aires, the Eco Pampa Hostel was the city’s first ecologically friendly hostel, a model for others to follow. The managers have paid careful attention to keeping things green, from installing a rainwater tank, low-energy electrical appliances, solar panels and heating, and an organic rooftop garden to using recycled materials in the decoration of all the rooms.

Many city hostels and hotels are embracing the idea of emissions-free travel, whether it be by bicycle, foot, cart or even local animals. Amsterdam is one of the finest examples of this, where bicycles can be found for use at most accommodations. Photo courtesy of the European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism

Local Houses
* What better way to find out what it’s like to live as a nomad than actually to live like one? In Kyrgyzstan, a yurt stay is an increasingly popular way to see the vast undeveloped countryside. Because the camps move with the nomads and essentially leave no trace behind, it’s hard to imagine a way of making less impact.

* Transport yourself to 5th-century Turkey by staying deep inside the surreal cave-and-tunnel systems of the stony Cappadocian countryside. Cave hotels offer unique accommodations repurposed from ancient lodgings designed to support lifestyle without continuous access to water or outside trade. Today’s self-cooling hotel rooms, like those of the Yunak Evleri Cave Hotel, are surprisingly luxurious and full of light thanks to the innovative design of the early Turks.

* Village homestays are an increasingly popular way to directly finance traditional communities instead of parading them as tourist attractions. By living side by side with villagers in, tourists can actually take part in the perfect ecotourism model: natural materials and fibres are used for nearly every edifice and tool, water is sourced from nearby rivers and streams, and opportunities exist for fishing and hunting with locals. The Solomon Islands have some superb village stays, many of which were established in the late 1980s, when the practice boomed.

Luxury Ecolodges
* Run by a local naturalist (who discovered a new species of bird), the Hobatere Lodge in northern Namibia has leased the land around it from a local conservancy that encourages indigenous people and animals to live freely on and directly benefit from the land. Ongoing lodge projects range from the Kunene Lion Project and the Namibian Elephant and Giraffe Trust to the study of the black mongoose. Local Namibians make up 100 percent of the staff, and 80 percent of them have been working there for 10 years or more. A private generator powers the lodge and there’s a garden of indigenous plants used by the restaurant.

Many luxury ecolodges are built straight into wildlife conservancies as a way to help support efforts by local foundations and the people living off the land. Places like the Hobatere Lodge in Namibia work alongside the Kunene Lion Project, among others, to track and monitor local lion populations. Photo by Debbie Rowles, courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

* Featured in the New York Times as the next hot ecolodge destination in Koh Kong, Cambodia, the 4 Rivers Floating Ecolodge is so remote that you need a private canoe to get there. Designed to immerse its guests in the surrounding wilderness at the convergence of four rivers, this destination proves that sustainability does not have to be at the expense of luxury.

* There’s nothing quite like the romance of the Arabian Desert, conjuring up images of starry nights, languid camels, warm campfires, embroidered throw rugs and the call of the Bedouin in the morning. At the famed Desert Nights Camp in Oman’s Wahiba Sands, guests are given the full experience of the ancient practice of the famed desert traders, all with minimal impact on the environment.

Community Projects
In Thailand, it’s easy to visit monasteries but few places allow lay people to live alongside monks and learn their practices. The 10-day silent retreat at the Suan Mokkh International Dhamma Hermitage gives outsiders a chance to experience monastic life. Expect to forsake all material pleasure, eat vegetarian food only twice a day, attend meditation and yoga classes, and maintain complete silence. The retreat is free, but participants must be committed to all aspects of the program.

Further Study
For more information about ecotourism, environmental tourism and how to go green, check out some of the links below.
* The International Ecotourism Society
* Tree Hugger
* Earth Summit

The Fish River in Namibia has slowly worn away the earth over the last 500 million years to create the Fish River Canyon. A hike through the canyon is a challenging yet rewarding experience. Photo is courtesy of the Gondwana Collection. All rights reserved.

Namibia achieved independence from South Africa in 1990. Since then, the young country has been recovering in fits and starts from the inflicted wounds of Apartheid and a long history of instability. Since the early 1990s, the country has enjoyed a welcome period of constancy and is looking for ways to build on its foundation and best use its resources to help Namibian people. But satisfying the demands of the people means understanding the geographical challenges of the country. For example, characterised by stark deserts of sparse vegetation, the Sossusvlei and Southern Namibia regions are quite different from other areas of Namibia; this has made life difficult for the rural inhabitants, the majority of which farm and raise livestock.

Going… Going… Gondwana!

As international travellers increasingly become aware of Namibia’s blend of relative government stability, natural beauty and cultural distinctiveness, the tourism industry is growing stronger and offering locals an attractive way to support their families.

One meaningful way actually allows conscientious travellers to contribute actively and directly to the local economy by signing on with a local travel company passionate about preserving the environment and sustaining livelihoods in the southern region. The Gondwana Collection is truly forging the way for mindful and sustainable tourism and encompasses four private nature reserves in Southern Namibia – Gondwana Kalahari Park, Gondwana Cañon Park, Gondwana Sperrgebiet Park and Gondwana Namib Park – all connected by the Gondwana Four Deserts Route. These four conservancies lie in horseshoe formation, making it easy for holidaymakers to tour the area by car and partake in the activities that each area offers.

Though the true origin of the feral horses that now inhabit the Namib Desert remains a mystery, these animals have certainly made a name for themselves. Travellers flock to witness these horses that have adapted to the harsh desert conditions. Photo courtesy of the Gondwana Collection. All rights reserved.

Many people start their excursions at the top of the ‘horseshoe’ on the red sands of the Kalahari – an area known for its abundant wildlife and expansive dunes – before progressing to the famous Quiver Tree Forest north of Keetmanshoop. An itinerary could then continue with the Wild Horses of Namib near Aus, seeing the diamond ghost town of Kolmanskop, the gigantic rock arch of Bogenfels south of Lüderitz or a list of about 20 other equally varied and exciting things to see and do.

On every agenda, however, the great Fish River Canyon should not be overlooked, as it is said to offer some of the most beautiful hikes in all of Africa. Trekkers will need to be in fairly decent shape and should book long in advance for the few available permits! All along the way, hikers will experience a destination that was unprotected only 20 years ago; Gondwana has steadily been buying farmland and rehabilitating the desert landscape to create this network of conserved parks.

Gondwana Acts Responsibly

At the end of a long and invigorating hike, rest assured that Gondwana can provide you a hot meal and comfy places to bed down. During an overnight stay, guests will encounter some of the staff of 130 now gainfully employed in a region that only counted a few dozen herders in years past – a great boon for a country where the unemployment rate lingers between 40 and 50 percent. These employees are even given opportunities for personal growth through education and career training, since Gondwana offers classes in, among other things, vegetable gardening, hospitality service training, HIV/AIDS peer education, English and German. Guest lecturers also cover topics such as domestic violence, family planning and sexuality, and alcohol and drug abuse, as well as personal insurance and banking.

The springbok antelope has adapted to the dry terrain of the Kalahari Desert in Namibia and can survive as long as their food has at least 10% water content. They can run at speeds of up to 80kph and can jump more than 10 metres in a single bound. Photo courtesy of Hentie Burger/Gondwana Collection Photo Gallery. All rights reserved.

Additionally, the organisation has created a Self-Sufficiency Centre, which is a five-hectare farm that provides fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, milk and eggs to cover about 70 percent of the needs for all guest meals in Gondwana’s lodges and camps. Growing its own locally sourced food, the centre not only cuts down on ingredients imported from South Africa, but also provides 13 more full-time jobs.

In a country still finding its post-Apartheid footing, the Gondwana Collection is part of Namibia’s hope for a stronger and sustainable economic future. A stay in one of the Gondwana Collection’s accommodations helps fund their conservation and social work initiatives; thus far in 2010 about 5% of Gondwana Cañon Park’s turnover has been re-invested in nature and community outreach.

This tasty snack comes in a variety of different flavours and it seems as if each neighbourhood has its signature man'oushe. It can be baked in a brick oven for a slightly plumper bread or rolled out thin and cooked on top of a domed griddle called a saj. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Nsaum75

The All-Day Breakfast

For a country overflowing with street food outlets from the humble pushcart to the more upmarket corner shop, it’s a tough call to crown one particular delicacy king of the cheap eats in Lebanon. If there must be one clear winner, however, it has to be the humble man’oushe, a freshly baked unleavened bread spread liberally with za’atar (an aromatic mix of thyme, sumac spice, sesame seeds and olive oil), which could almost be thought of as a tasty Lebanese take on pizza. It’s served folded, which means it’s perfect for eating on the hoof and makes an ideal breakfast treat on the way to work. The nation’s favourite snack has a number of variations, including a cheese topping using jibneh arabieh (similar to feta) or a ground beef topping called lahmeh. Throw in a few chopped tomatoes and olives and you’ve got yourself one heck of a tasty snack!

The quintessential Maltese snack, pastizzi are pastries baked with either a ricotta-cheese or mushy-pea filling. Found throughout the islands, they are one of the cheapest bites you can get. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Chattacha

Baked Goodness

The small archipelago of Malta, situated slap-bang in the middle of the Mediterranean, is famed for its delicious pastizzi. These delectable diamond-shaped puff-pastries are filled with ricotta cheese or mashed peas, and can be bought from small fast-food shops called pastizzeriji, which open especially early on Sunday mornings to serve late-night revellers headed home from a night out. The two varieties can easily be told apart as the more popular pastizzi tal-irkotta (ricotta pastry) has a hole in it to show off the delicious filling, while the pastizzi tal-pizelli (pea pastry) does not. Lovers of vernacular may be interested to note that the word pastizzi (singular pastizz) is also a derogatory term for female genitalia in colloquial Maltese, probably due to the pastry’s suggestive shape. Despite the connotation, the pastries are a source of national pride. No visit to Malta is complete without a cheap and tasty pastizz or two.

Vegetarians Beware

The Southern African nation of Namibia is well known as a land of meat lovers for whom not just any meat will do. Only artery-clogging red meat satisfies this nation’s carnivorous tendencies. Beef is big business here and barbecues, much like the braai in neighbouring South Africa, can be found in every town.

The Namibian version is known as kapana and consists of strips of beef and fat grilled to perfection on open stoves, generously seasoned with chilli, salt or peri-peri and served wrapped in newspaper. These tasty morsels can also be sandwiched in fried doughnut-type buns, fittingly called ‘fat cakes.’ The barbecuing is traditionally men’s work, but women are often on hand to help serve up the fat cakes. The perfectly prepared kapana has a strong, smoky barbecue flavour, with the meat succulent and juicy and the fat crisp on the outside. The bustling markets of Katutura township in the capital city of Windhoek are the best places to find this tasty soul food.

A Little Something for the Health Conscious

If you think the promise of a calorie-induced heart attack is a prerequisite to qualify as authentic street food, think again. The hot and sticky Indonesian climate means the refreshing street eat known as rujak (Malay for “mixture”) is a popular choice for snackers. It’s a simple concoction consisting of a cup of mixed fresh fruit or vegetables topped with rujak sauce and peanuts. The sweet and sour rujak sauce is similar to Chinese hoisin and is made from water, gula jawa (palm sugar), asem jawa (tamarind), ground peanuts, terasi (shrimp paste), salt and chilli.

Found in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore (where it is known as rojak), rujak consists of sliced fruit or vegetables that are then covered in a sweet, sour and spicy dressing and topped off with chopped peanuts. There are innumerable variations of the ingredients and sauces, so no two rujaks need ever be the same! Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Gunkarta Gunawan Kartapranata

Popular ingredients in a typical fruit rujak include jambu air (water apple), pineapple, mango, jicama (turnip), cucumber, kedondong (hog plum) and raw ubi jalar (sweet potato). The tartness of the fruit is nicely offset by the sweetness of the sauce, but those preferring a saltier flavour can ask for some sambal garam powder (salt and ground red chilli) on the side. The mix of sweet, sour and spicy flavours is said to be particularly popular among pregnant women, which may explain why a special fruit rujak is served during traditional baby shower ceremonies called Tujuh bulanan (meaning “seventh month”) on the island of Java. Locals believe if the rujak tastes sweeter the baby will be a girl and if spicier it signifies a boy.

Doughy, greasy and stodgy, Chilean sopaipillas are the ultimate comfort food for those cold, rainy days. The steaming bowl of sopaipilla pasada shown here in the background is the sweet version, served in a delicious syrup called chancaca. There are plenty of savoury alternatives too if you don't have a sweet tooth. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Warko2006

And for the Not So Health Conscious

The popular fast food known as sopaipilla can be found all over Latin America, but the version in Chile packs a little extra something. Here, the fried circles of dough are made with cooked squash (a Chilean staple) and this versatile comfort food can be either sweet or savoury. A variation of the snack is found on the island of Chiloé, where potatoes (sweet or plain) are used instead of squash. Sopaipilla pasada is served in chancaca, a warm cane sugar syrup flavoured with orange peel and cinnamon. It’s a perfect winter warmer that is also traditionally eaten on rainy afternoons with a cup of tea as a carb-laden pick-me-up. The savoury alternatives substitute chancaca for pebre, a sauce made from tomatoes, chopped onion, oil, salt, and chopped coriander or parsley. Jalepeño sauces are also popular for a bit of kick. Sopaipilla vendors can be found throughout the country plying the streets with their pushcarts and this simple dish is also often served in restaurants to whet the appetite.

The distinctive uakari monkey is one of Brazil's Mamirauá Sustainable Development Reserve's most famous, yet elusive characters. Not the Amazon's most beautiful creature, it nevertheless puts on an impressive display, leaping over six metres between branches.

Guarding the Gateway to the Amazon

Mamirauá Sustainable Development Reserve came into being in 1996 and has the distinction of being the first sustainable-development reserve in Brazil. Located west of Manaus, in the northwest state of Amazonas, the reserve is the largest protected area of flooded forest in the Amazon and the only place where várzea flooded forest is actively conserved. This fragile and unique ecosystem boasts incredible biodiversity, including many endemic plant and animal species.

The reserve staff work together with local communities to promote sustainable resource management; this pioneering work means that native populations now know which trees they can cut down for wood and how much they can fishing without depleting endangered pirarucu populations.

Many locals actively participate in the ecotourism initiative, acting as kitchen staff and guides. Their vast knowledge and passion for their home mean that the chances of glimpsing some of the area’s more elusive inhabitants, such as the once-endangered black caiman and the notoriously shy uakari monkey are greatly improved!

Fortifying the Fringe Communities of Mole National Park

Mole National Park, in the north of the country, is the largest protected area in Ghana and a key site for biodiversity conservation.

In Ghana, local women in Mognori Eco-Village fry gari, a local food made from cassava

Covering an area of 4840 square kilometres, the park is surrounded by 30 fringe communities with a population of around 30,000. These communities are overseen by Mole National Park’s Collaborative Resource Management Unit, the aim of which is to involve the local people in the sustainable exploitation of the park’s resources and to promote a collaborative approach to conservation.

One exemplary community has developed into an eco-village, where visitors can enjoy tours, homestays, cultural performances, canoe safaris and visits to the traditional medicine man and weaver. The creation of the Mognori Eco-Village has led to dramatic decreases in poaching in the surrounding area as villagers can make a living without destroying the park’s natural resources. The education initiatives set up to teach villagers about the importance of conservation have also been crucial.

Conserving the Kings of the Namibian Desert

The Cardboard Box Travel Shop, the former whl.travel local connection in Sossusvlei and South Namibia has long supported the Desert Lion Conservation Project, launched in 1998 to protect the hardy felines that make their home in the harsh Namib Desert.

The lion is surprisingly adaptable and resilient, which helps it survive even in the extreme conditions of the desert. Namibia's desert lions do not need to drink, and feed primarily on gemsbok and ostrich.

Created and run by Professor Stander, an expert in big cats who spent 23 years working for the country’s Ministry of Environment and Tourism, the project is designed both to protect the desert lion species and to reduce threats to human communities living in their midst.

The desert lion is a big draw for the Namibian tourist industry, but local communities have never had a shared in the financial benefits, even while lion attacks on their livestock have led to poisonings, shootings and trapping. Stander’s work includes the tracking and monitoring of desert lions and the implementation of human-lion conflict management plans in the local communities. The development of lion eco-safaris has brought new opportunities for locals, who can now profit directly from efforts to protect and conserve this national treasure.

Accommodation with Conscience in Southern Uganda

Mihingo Lodge, on the outskirts of Lake Mburo National Park in Uganda, is a luxury hotel with heart. Not only is the accommodation environmentally friendly, but the lodge has also set up the Mihingo Conservation and Community Development Foundation (CCDF), which aims to “improve the living conditions of the surrounding communities and improve conservation efforts on the eastern side of Lake Mburo National Park.” There are currently plans to expand their remit to include other areas of the park.

Uganda's sumptuous Mihingo Lodge is bush chic at its best. Each of its 10 secluded rooms is raised on stilts, covered with a thatched roof and offers fabulous views of nearby Lake Mburo National Park.

Mihingo CCDF has so far instigated a number of successful initiatives, including the Mihingo Leopard Project (the conservation of predators in the park through education of local communities to reduce human-wildlife conflict, and the compensation of farmers whose livestock were killed by leopards or hyenas); the Mihingo Education Project (sponsoring secondary education); and the Mihingo Craft Project.

The foundation has set up each project with sustainability in mind. As a result the initiatives either finance themselves or receive continued support through the fundraising efforts of the foundation itself.

Galvanising Greece’s Green Belt

Greece is still recovering from the extensive fires that ravaged the Attica region, close to Athens, in August 2009. Attica is a densely forested area and the local tree populations were all but decimated by blazes that scorched 210,000 stremmata (the Greek measurement for square metre).

As part of the Green Belt initiative, school children get their hands dirty planting trees to help regenerate forests damaged by wildfires in Greece

This was but one of several wildfires over the years that have left forests unable to regenerate themselves. Green Belt, a Greek environmental nongovernmental organisation has therefore intervened with a plan to plant 60,000 trees in the next five years. The first stage of reforestation already took place in November 2009. Green Belt aims to improve the durability of the region’s sylvan spread by planting trees with fire-resistant properties, such as oak, as well as trees that are able to hold the soil together and prevent erosion, such as willows.

The initiative has rallied participation from schools in the Attica Basin, and garnered support (both fiscal and physical) from the US Embassy as part of its educational environmental programme.

Trumpeting Conservation Efforts on the Melanesian Island of Tetepare

The Solomon Islands, an archipelago east of Papua New Guinea, are celebrated for their rich biodiversity and endemic flora and fauna. Today, though, to protect against the blighting effects of worldwide environmental degradation, numerous environmental-protection initiatives are being put in place. One of them, created by the Tetepare Descendants’ Association (TDA) on Tetepare Island, has seen it heralded as “one of the conservation jewels of the Solomon Islands.”

Established as defence against commercial loggers keen on the island’s dense, pristine rainforest, the TDA’s efforts have paid off grandly; the area remains wild and untouched and is now both an internationally acclaimed conservation area of archaeological significance and a popular ecotourism destination.

Accommodation is available at a locally run ecolodge, from which visitors can enjoy snorkelling in one of the largest Marine Protected Areas in the Solomons, home to dugongs, dolphins and three species of turtles, and study rare and endangered bird and animal species. Although Tetepare is mostly as it was centuries ago, thankfully there are no more headhunters!

Buhoma Community Rest Camp of South Western Uganda

Looking for a Jane Goodall moment and to try a hand at gorilla tracking? Set on the edge of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – the only place in the world where chimpanzees and gorillas coexist – is the Buhoma Community Rest Camp. This locally run campsite is part of the Uganda Community Tourism Association (UCOTA), created to support the local people and improve their lives through community-based tourism.

A traditional safari tent accommodation overlooks the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda

Overnighters can choose to stay in a traditional banda (thatch-roofed bungalow) or a furnished safari tent and enjoy views of the forest canopy from the on-site restaurant. During the day, travellers are encouraged to take a village walk on which they can meet local artisans, healers and coffee farmers, as well as visit the local hospital, a pygmy tribe and a homestead where Waragi (Ugandan gin) is made and banana beer brewed. Proceeds from the camp go toward local initiatives.

Shewula Mountain Camp of Swaziland

This is experiential travel at its best. In the stunningly remote Lumbombo Mountain range of Swaziland, Chief Mbandzamane Sifundza II and the Shewula community welcome travellers to their village and a chance to discover the rural lifestyle of a Swazi community. Walking trails in the area are a great way to interact with the friendly community and absorb the pristine scenery of the region, all while learning about Swazi culture and the Shewula Mountain Camp‘s pioneering, homegrown model for sustainable tourism.

Shewula Mountain Camp sits on a plateau of the Lubombo Mountains with views out to large parts of central and northern Swaziland

Given the success of the mountain camp, many more community projects have been launched, including an orphanage, community resource centre and environmental ventures such as solar and wind power testing. The lodging – primarily in authentic thatch-roofed huts, although family and private accommodations are available – and three hearty meals a day are all 100% local, sourced from materials and produce immediately available.

Liziwes Bed & Breakfast in Cape Town, South Africa

As a long but growing list of travellers has already discovered, little rivals the cultural experience of staying overnight in a township of Cape Town, South Africa. Our choice, one among several, is Liziwes Bed & Breakfast.

Liziwe Ngcolcoto prepares carrots in a potjie pot, a traditional South African style of cooking

What was once little more than a shack in the same location, the current cheerful and welcoming structure has a heart-warming story. Liziwes’ husband worked for 25 years at Sappi Kraft (a paper and packaging company), from which he received donations of bricks over the years. With these, one brick at a time, he and Liziwes worked hard together to build what is today an internationally recognized accommodation right in the heart of a Gugulethu township. There’s also a restaurant, where visitors can savour the delicious local cuisine, learn about township culture and have a laugh with Liziwes and her family. Travellers can also experience everyday township life on walking tours that can be arranged by the guesthouse.

Malealea Lodge and Pony Trek Centre of Lesotho

Immerse yourself in Basotho culture. With unique accommodation options ranging from rustic rondavels, Basotho huts or forest huts to a comfortable stay in a farmhouse, the Jones family welcomes visitors to Malealea Lodge, set in the midst of the spectacular lands of western Lesotho. Pony trekking is a must-do while staying here, a chance for travellers to see the ‘real Africa’. As ponies are the traditional form of transport in the region, animals hired from local owners and led by Basotho guides are a fine form of community tourism, especially on trips into nearby rural communities, where travellers can learn about remote village traditions and even stay overnight in rented Basotho huts.

The Jones family’s knowledge of and commitment to the local community is fathomless – they have dedicated themselves completely to development projects, including building schools, HIV/AIDS awareness, and environmental protection – and they encourage travellers to get directly involved.

Damaraland Camp of Etosha, Namibia

Considered one of the most successful community-tourism projects in Namibia, Damaraland Camp is situated in the Huab River Valley. Once desolate and devoid of animals (killed by poachers), the region now teems with wildlife due to the efforts of the Torra Conservancy and Wilderness Safaris. Visitors are invited to stay in one of the ten thatched chalets run by the local community amidst beautiful plains surrounded by the Brandberg Mountains.

Travellers can see the desert-adapted elephants around the Huab River Valley near the Damaraland Camp of Etosha, Namibia

During the day, travellers enjoy drives to see the desert-adapted elephants and other wildlife in the region; in the evening, they gather in the open-roofed communal area and bomas around the campfire. Awarded the 2005 WTTC Tourism for Tomorrow Conservation Award, the camp aims to continue enriching the lives of the community and alleviate poverty by training and employing locals.

With the Sphinx bearing witness, the Tour d'Afrique riders assemble near Cairo, Egypt, in preparation for the first kilometre on day 1 of their four-month, 11,800-kilometre trans-African pedal (photo by Brian Hoeniger)

Pedal Power

As a recreational biker and former humanitarian aid worker in Africa, I had dreamt of cycling the Tour d’Afrique since it was first held in 2003. Having zero long-distance cycling experience, I was both intimidated and inspired by the prospect of biking across Africa, so I trained hard on Toronto’s bicycle paths and on a stationary bike. In the end, I completed the tour in two halves, riding from Tanzania to Cape Town in March to May 2008 and from Cairo to Tanzania in early 2009, all without a serious hiccup, aside from a few falls and the obligatory stomach upset.

For first-timers, the allure of long-distance bicycle touring quickly becomes apparent. You are rewarded not merely by encounters with new lands and cultures and by the physical conditioning of riding 80 to 180 kilometres day after day, but, above all, by the incredibly intense feeling of freedom that comes with having nothing to do except cycle down the African road, eat and sleep. It’s all too easy to become completely removed from the world of workstations and laptops, and, with between 50 and 65 other riders sharing the adventure, the camaraderie among the tour riders and the largely volunteer staff is strong.

On the Tour d'Afrique, in northern Kenya, the roadblocks and hazards are not exactly run of the mill (photo courtesy of Tour d'Afrique Ltd)

An African Dream

If anything, the four months exceeded my expectations as the challenge of a lifetime. There were many highlights, but some memories definitely stand out. Discovering how friendly the Sudanese people are – contrary to the country’s reputation in the western press – was enlightening. In fact, on several occasions I was invited by shopkeepers to share a meal of fuul (mashed fava beans) and pita bread. As Sudan is a Muslim country, there is virtually no crime to speak of and there was nowhere I felt safer on the entire trip.

Ethiopia’s biblical landscapes, unique cultures and cuisine were definite eye-openers as well. In Gondar city, the capital of Ethiopia in the 16th and 17th centuries, King Fasiledes’ castle, a World Heritage Site, is a must-see. On a rest day at Bahir Dar on the shores of Lake Tana, a group of us took a boat to ancient island monasteries, where we viewed manuscripts of the Ethiopian Coptic Christian Church dating back to the 10th century. Washed down with Dashen beer, Ethiopia’s fiery national food staples of injera (flat pancakes made from teff flour), wat (stew) and kitfo (steak tartare) are beyond delicious, although an acquired taste for some!

The sheer majesty of Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River is breathtaking and, by contrast, makes Niagara seem a mere trickle. Whether you choose to get soaked at the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (meaning ‘the Smoke that Thunders’), go white-water rafting or bungee jumping 100 metres down from the bridge separating Zambia and Zimbabwe, or just enjoy the view over a buffet breakfast from a hotel balcony, the falls live up to their billing as one of the world’s seven wonders of nature.

A local bike shop in Tanzania helps a Tour d'Afrique rider with some repairs (photo by Brian Hoeniger)

The wildlife is another unforgettable aspect of the trip. I will long treasure the experience of heading out at dawn with birdsong and my bike as the only sounds, not to mention the day I cycled past a family of elephants at 6:30am just outside of Kasane, Botswana. I will never forget one Zambian farmer commenting that “The elephants are really bad this year!” as he bemoaned the damage to his crops and gardens, much the way rural Canadians might decry deer or wolves for wandering into their yard.

A sublime sense of accomplishment and a delicious bowl of soup at the end of the toughest days always seemed to make me forget about tired muscles, and finding the elusive cold beverage on a really hot day was bliss. Although I’m not normally a fan, a chilled fizzy drink has never tasted better than on a dusty African roadside.

The Experience of a Lifetime

There are crazy bus drivers in Sudan and southern Tanzania who will force you off the road. In Ethiopia, where the population has exploded to almost 80 million, you are unlikely ever to be alone and guaranteed to be pestered and plunked by stone-throwing shepherd boys (“You! You! You! Give me money!”).

The Tour d'Afrique is, in the end, about the strength and determination of one person and his/her bike (photo courtesy of Tour d'Afrique Ltd)

That being said, provided you watch over your health, know your limits and when to slow down on an off-road rock-strewn downhill, you will be fine. There are some rainy days, but the tour has been designed with the prevailing winds and seasons in mind. Sunshine and warmth typically predominate, including a few days of extreme heat. Perhaps the biggest setback is packing up the bike at journey’s end and bidding adieu to Africa and new friends, knowing it’s time to go home and back to work.

In short, the Tour d’Afrique challenges riders physically and mentally like nothing else, with rewards of unsurpassed and diverse terrain, and an incomparable feeling of achievement that few have the opportunity to experience. Seeing the funds I raised for the Tour d’Afrique Foundation converted into bicycles for African community health and development workers was the icing on the cake.

If I can do it, then believe it or not, so can you!

A panoramic view of Erongo's tent chalets nestled among the rocks coloured by darkening skies

Although I know some people love to cram every spare moment with activity, I often feel tourists come away from Namibia requiring another holiday to recover. There are, however, a few lodges that understand not all guests want to rise with the sun and be bundled into a 4×4 for a game drive. Erongo Wilderness Lodge is one such place – one of my favourites in Namibia – and the perfect end to any trip.

Situated just southwest of Omaruru in stunning mountain scenery, this intimate and friendly lodge strives to create the ideal balance between participation, personal freedom and a link to nature.

The accommodation is in 10 tented chalets scattered along a mountainside amongst large granite boulders that provide both privacy and a real connection to your surroundings. This is particularly true of the bathrooms, where the space is carved out around the rocks and is partially open-air, great for enjoying a steamy hot shower.

The tent chalets' interiors are simple but comfortable

However, this is not to say that comfort has been forgotten. Although basic, the rooms have fans, an electronic safe, minibar, mosquito netting on all the doors and windows and a range of biodegradable bathroom products. Each room also has a small private deck from which to enjoy the beautiful views – perfect for quietly soaking in the atmosphere, watching the dassies scamper over the rocks, catching sight of eagles soaring overhead or simply reading a book in the tranquillity of your own space.

Relaxed and Unobtrusive

One of the first things I noticed when I initially visited Erongo was the relaxed and unobtrusive service. As soon as you arrive, there is a more easygoing ambience – the paperwork is kept to a minimum, bags are quickly and quietly taken care of and you are not rushed into anything. As for the guiding, it has the same laidback yet professional feel. There is certainly an emphasis on guided walks, but at no point do guests ever get bamboozled into doing anything they are not keen on. If you fancy just sitting on the terrace with a drink, watching the birdbath attract colourful rosy-faced lovebirds, red-eyed bulbuls and black-throated canaries, or perhaps catching a few rays by the pool, then you are encouraged to do just that!

Wooden walkways lead across the grounds to the tent chalets in Namibia

Activities are not centred around big game, despite there being rhino and leopard in the area, but rather follow an ‘up-close-and-personal’ approach that allows people to better interact with their surroundings. To understand more of what you see, there is a good mix of both local, traditional knowledge and a more scientific understanding. This is in part helped by researchers, who are encouraged to stay at the lodge, providing valuable information regarding the local flora and fauna.

At Erongo, comfort wouldn’t be complete without the efforts of the kitchen team. In keeping with the general ethos, the cuisine is hearty, flavoursome and unpretentious. There’s also a small yet carefully picked selection of wines. A typical meal might consist of baked camembert with red-currant sauce, beef steak in brandy and cream sauce, all finished off with an appetising apple strudel and custard.

After the long and dusty drives, action-packed days and the very early morning starts sometimes typical of holidays in Namibia, the beauty and comfort of Erongo are a welcome change of pace, one I am sure you will also enjoy.

More Information

• Best time to visit: April – May
• Drive time from Windhoek: 3 hours
• Distance from Windhoek:  approximately 250km to the northwest
• Best visited by car: There is a 2×4 parking area from which you are transferred to the lodge. Also 4×4 parking at the lodge.
• Electricity: 220V from the national grid, so there are no generators

I am married to a typical Namibian male. His idea of a decent meal includes a large hunk of steak with not a single green substance in sight! Fifteen years ago, when I first arrived in Namibia, I did not really understand the importance meat has in the lives of most Namibians (although it is probably worth mentioning that I was a vegetarian); however, it soon became apparent that Namibia, at least in those days, was not familiar with the term ‘vegetarian’.

Guests at a Herero wedding in Ovitoto, approximately 70km northeast of Okahandja. Herero culture places a lot of importance on cattle. This picture was taken

One of my first outings to a restaurant was an indication of things to come. Having ordered some kind of vegetarian salad, I discovered it had bits of bacon in it. When I queried this, the waitress and chef seemed confused. In their minds, bacon, particularly small bits of it, did not constitute meat, and the chef had only added them to make the salad edible. In the same vein, a local Baster guide that we often use for camping safaris found it very hard to grasp the idea that vegetarians didn’t eat chicken (or pork, or possibly even fish). To most Namibians, meat just means red meat. Yet it goes even beyond this. On another social occasion, we were out with a Namibian friend who politely, but disdainfully, asked the waitress to please remove the “rabbit food” that had been presented as a side dish with her steak.

To Be or Not to Be a Vegetarian

For the next year and a half I battled to remain vegetarian. Apparently it was the best time of my husband’s life as it meant that when we went out he could order two meat dishes and I just scraped off the (soggy, overcooked) vegetables. A win-win situation from his point of view! However, during this period I started to reassess my stance on meat.

To Namibian meat eaters, these animals at an Etosha watering hole are a smorgasbord of dinner opportunities!

For a start, Namibia is a desert country and has very limited water resources. Growing most vegetables is not commercially viable and so the ones sold here are transported a great distance from South Africa. On the other hand, game such as springbok, kudu and gemsbok have adapted to this harsh terrain and live in perfect harmony with the land. On the whole they live happy lives, roaming freely in the veldt, until a possibly early demise at the hands of a local farmer. I therefore concluded that game meat is probably the most environmentally friendly food available in Namibia and although it might be hard for some people to eat the ‘cute’ animals they’ve just seen on a game drive, they really are extremely tasty!

As you might have guessed, my resolve as a vegetarian crumbled and I am now unable to go on a long journey without biltong. I also like my steaks to be rare!

The Braai

No commentary on the importance of meat in Namibia can go without mentioning the time-honoured tradition of the braai. If you’re not familiar with the term, it translates roughly as ‘barbeque’ and yet, in English, it seems to diminish the true essence of this most favourite of southern African social rituals.

A typical braai, this one at a local school swimming event at Friedenau Dam, approximately 40km from Windhoek, Namibia

The weekend is not complete without a braai, which generally follows certain unwritten customs. For a start, the men cook the meat while the women prepare other unimportant items, such as the salad or vegetables. The former takes part around the outside fire with discussion centred around rugby or some other sport; the latter is based in the kitchen. There is a head braaier, who is in charge of making the fire and cooking the meat. The other men are there in a purely supporting role as fireside companions making sure the head chef is supplied with ample lubrication and entertaining conversation. The basic rule is ‘don’t mess with another man’s fire’.

Having said this, Namibia has progressed a lot from when I first arrived. Nowadays vegetarians are much more widely understood and much better catered for. In fact it has been ages since I have heard of a chef trying to sneak bits of meat into a salad or veggie dish to improve it! But most Namibians still do not really know why vegetarians exist. If invited to a braai or social gathering, they’ll have to understand that steak and boerewors are the main attraction, not the potato salad or mealies.

In fact, when Archbishop Desmond Tutu was once asked what vegetarians were supposed to do on National Braai Day (24 September in South Arica), he replied “They can stand and watch”.

A Namibian Foodie Lexicon

• Biltong – Air-cured meat similar to jerky
• Boerewors – Long meaty sausages
• Droëwors – Air-cured sausage
• Mealies – Corn on the cob. Great on a braai. (See, we do have vegetables!)
• Pap/ Mahango – Cornmeal or millet porridge, often served with potjiekos or a dish with a gravy
• Potjie – A three-legged black pot that looks like a witch’s cauldron
• Potjiekos – A dish cooked in a potjie, generally for a long time over coals
• Sosatie – Meat on a stick / shish kebab