Heritage Perth, an independent, not-for-profit organisation set up to promote Perth’s heritage, has developed the project “Light Up Perth” to create an imaginative and sustainable façade lighting schemes for significant buildings within the City of Perth. Using energy efficient equipment, Light Up the City provides a spectacular lighting show that brings important buildings to life at night, helping to reaffirm the Perth’s title of ‘City of Light’.

In order to achieve a façade lighting scheme whose design can be changed at the tap of a computer keyboard, over 20,000 diodes have been installed on the famous structural ‘Ts’ of Council House. Using such equipment has made it possible to light a building using a fraction of the energy previously required for the same purpose. With the assistance of the State’s Sustainable Energy Development Office the scheme is intended to have the minimum possible environmental impact. The lighting specification developed gives up to 500% efficiencies over conventional façade lighting systems.

Council House is widely recognised throughout Australia as one of the finest examples of 1960s ‘minimalist modern’ office buildings in the country and was officially opened by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, on 25 March 1963.

At the end of 1992, Perth City Council announced its intention to move out of Council House to make way for asbestos contamination to be removed. This announcement ushered in five years of controversy and extensive public debate over the future of the building. In October 1993, the State Government released the Perth Central Precinct Area Policies Review, which featured a ‘Civic Precinct’ or ‘Central Perth Heritage Precinct’. This proposal called for the demolition of Council House and the establishment of public gardens on the site.

The media prominently covered the public debate that ensued. Those supporting the demolition focused primarily on the perceived ugliness of the place and its supposed intrusion on a ‘heritage’ precinct of 19th-century structures and gardens. Those in favour of retention spoke of the importance of the place as a fine demonstration of Post-War Modernist architecture. Eventually, in 1995, a newly elected Perth City Council reviewed the demolition order and a year later approved refurbishment of the building.

Thankfully the building was saved and with the recent façade lighting project it has cemented its place as one of the most recognizable buildings in the city, a highlight of any tour of Perth.

For volcano enthusiasts, and travelers interested in geology and natural history, Hawai’i is a unique destination offering one-of-a-kind encounters with Kīlauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and Mauna Loa, the world’s most massive volcano. At the recommendation of Annette Kaohelaulii of Hawai’i Ecotourism Association, I was fortunate to get to know one of the most reputable local ecotour providers, VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i – the Hawai’i branch of VolcanoDiscovery, an international company offering customized volcano tours around the world – and to experience the Big Island differently: with an incredible amount of education and an eye-opening insights into the culture and history of the island.

Phil is the manager of VolcanoDiscovery Hawai'i, leading a five-person team of local specialist guides currently operating from an office in his off-grid house.

Local, Personalized and Mind-Blowing

I’ve been lucky enough to travel to many destinations around the world, and one thing I’ve learned about myself through traveling is that the type of travel experiences I enjoy most is slow, local and personal. Whether I was backpacking in Europe or market-hopping in Asia, my favorite memories were always about the people from the local areas who shared with me slices of their lives.

Philip Ong, our private tour guide, offered exactly that. In addition to being an extraordinarily knowledgeable volcano specialist and passionate guide, he had the quality of a “local friend” that made the tour memorable beyond what’s included in the package. The eight-hour tour with Phil – focusing on natural and cultural interpretation and taking time to stop to contemplate and to exchange views about tourism in Hawai’i – for me made all of the rest of the days on the island more enjoyable and meaningful.

I’ll admit that, as valuable and educational as Phil’s interpretation was, I did not actually follow everything he said. A lot of scientific details about the volcanoes, which Phil was more than happy to share, repeat and elaborate on as needed, didn’t necessarily register with me (mostly because I was too amazed at the scenery or at Phil’s knowledge to try and digest a lot of information). “If you don’t remember these scientific terms, don’t worry, we’re not going to be testing you,” Phil joked, assuring me that learning in Hawai’i’s natural volcano laboratory is about finding connections with the land – in my own way, at my own pace.

Our tour was planned based on the best way to “tell the stories of past eruptions and build an understanding of how the volcano actually erupts” (from one of pre-trip email exchanges with Phil) and to allow for the opportunity to discuss ecotourism, as well as experiencing the island’s unique wonders.

What struck me most as (to use a volcanic metaphor) mind-blowing was the glimpse into the world view of native Hawaiian islanders before Western contact. The scientific methods used today to record volcanic activities were, obviously, not part of Hawaiian way of life until Western science was introduced to the islands. However, this does not mean that Hawaiians in pre-Western contact periods did not record volcanic activities; they just took a very different approach.

“Instead of measuring the movements of volcanoes, as we do today,” Phil explained, “the native Hawaiians understood and communicated the changes in volcanoes by telling stories about Pele, the mystical goddess of fire, and other volcano and island spirits.” Every incident of volcanic activity in the ancient times was recorded through tales of Pele and her expressions of passion and rage, and her dramatic (to say the least) love life. On the Hawai’i island you will see the legend very much alive, for instance the famous sibling rivalry between Pele and her sister Hi’iaka, the goddess of nature, whose desires are manifested in the eternal cycle of destruction (Pele’s rage) and rebirth (Hi’iaka restoring the forests on the land ravaged by lava and rocks).

While it’s impossible to ‘undo’ the perspectives acquired through education and experience, and I would never truly see the world through the eyes of First Hawaiians, just trying to imagine the creativity and wisdom of a world where story-telling and “making sense” of nature’s drama were one and the same thing was a mesmerizing experience.

One of the skills required for small operators like Phil is to navigate around large tour groups on cruise ship days. Most of these groups, though, tend to spend very little time at each site, simply stopping to take pictures. In comparison, Phil generously allocated time to offer in-depth interpretation and to share stories.

Opening People’s Eyes to Ecotourism

Listening to Phil, I could tell how passionate he is not only about volcanoes, natural history, geology, and Hawaiian culture, but also about the possibilities of opening people’s eyes (and perhaps changing their attitudes) to the importance of protecting this amazing island. “I understand that there’s a need for every type of tourism,” he noted, “and that we fill a specific niche.” On the tourism spectrum on the island, companies like VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i are on one end of the extreme: very small, very local and very customized. On the other end are the very large, very corporate and very generic mass tours.

Cruise ships, on the mass end of the spectrum, are inevitably a large part of life in Hawai’i, and have profound impact on local businesses. On “cruise ship days” in Hawai’i, parking lots in national parks fill up with tourist buses and sightseeing vans, and foot traffic is much higher at all of the iconic viewpoints and pathways. Our tour day, too, was one of those days and we saw the scene familiar to many: tour bus unloads, people take pictures in front of whatever the iconic sight they’ve come to see, and hurry back to the bus to carry on with their pre-scheduled itinerary.

Phil shared his experience – as one of the ‘little guys’ among the numerous Big Island tour providers. “At first I had a negative view of those passengers who settle for a superficial experience of the island, but I’ve come to realize that these are exactly the people that we need to be working with, if we want to promote ecotourism and effect change.” Unlike someone (like me) who is already ‘sold’ on the idea of a personal, educational and low-impact interpretive tour experience, people who usually choose mass tour experiences will likely have that aha! moment and may be inspired to be a little bit more conscious about their impact – the next time they travel, or at home.

“However small the change may be,” said Phil, “that’s what we try to do, to inspire people to experience Hawai’i differently and to become more conscious about their connection to the Earth and lifestyle in general.”

Pele, fortunately, was breathing very gently and remained calm during our visit. You can feel her ‘breath’ in the air, in the form of warm volcanic steam.

Sustainability of Running a Tourism Business Sustainably

VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i is one of the 14 companies in Hawai’i that have received the Hawai’i Ecotourism Association’s first-ever green certification program (and among them, one of the three to have achieved the highest GOLD level), recognized for their responsible use of natural and cultural resources, support for conservation and sustainability practices, and efforts to raise awareness among visitors.

Will the certification help Phil’s business? Will it help boost ecotourism in Hawai’i – which in turn would also help small operators like VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i?

Phil is under no illusion that mass tourism would completely change its nature, nor that the politics in the state’s tourism industry (which tends to favor those with money) would revolutionize to support the ‘little guys’ any time soon. But he is also practically optimistic. By winning support of repeat customers and taking advantage of word-of-mouth referrals, his business is growing (traveler review sites such as TripAdvisor has been a great asset to the business), which shows that there is an increasing demand for local and sustainable tour experience, and that his approach focusing on story-telling and personal connections is winning the hearts of those who experience it.

His challenge now is to convert those travelers into contributors (whether they are volunteering their time, or donating money) supporting conservation. VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i guides work on native rainforest restoration projects during the off-season, and in order for professionally-trained personal interpretative guides’ jobs to be sustainable year-round, there needs to be a way to fund their off-season work, which in turn will ensure that travelers can continue to experience Hawai’i’s living landscapes without destroying them.

The kind of personal encounter with Pele that I had, I feel, would be the only convincing that’s needed to convert any traveler into a passionate supporter.

The four “Turtle Islands” of Talang-Satang in Malaysia are responsible for 95 percent of all the turtle landings in Sarawak. Photo courtesy of Flickr/enklocek

The Irrawaddy Dolphins of Sarawak

Sarawak, the largest state in Malaysia, is well regarded as a hot spot for Irrawaddy dolphins (known to locals as pesut). The Irrawaddy dolphins’ unusual features are its blunt, rounded head with a flexible neck, an indistinct and almost non-existent beak, a small triangular dorsal fin with a blunt tip and its long broad flippers. Irrawaddy dolphins usually swim in groups of two to six, but in Santubong and Buntal, larger groups of more than 30 have been sighted.

Since the Irrawaddy dolphin is a protected species in Sarawak, the local government has created dolphin-watching programs to control tourism and limit the number of visitors. Unfortunately, Irrawaddy dolphins are still facing great risk of extinction due to human encroachment. The biggest threat of all is entanglement in fishing nets. Dolphin-watching season runs from April to November, but due to unpredictable weather, sightings are not frequent. It is therefore best to combine a dolphin watching tour with a mangrove cruise that offers the opportunity to see a wide range of rare wildlife such as Borneo’s famed proboscis monkey.

The Marine Turtles of Talang-Satang National Park

Sarawak’s first marine national park, Talang-Satang, comprises four islands on the southeast coast of Sarawak. These four “Turtle Islands” are responsible for 95 percent of all the turtle landings in Sarawak. Talang-Satang National Park covers approximately 48,000 acres, including beautiful shallow reef areas surrounding the four islands. The park also includes a wildlife sanctuary, important nesting sites and fish-breeding areas, as well as rare species of hard and soft corals. Most importantly, though, it provides shelter and resting ground for sea turtles.

Marine turtles are amongst the world’s longest-living creatures with many reaching more than 100 years of age. Marine turtles will only start breeding at between 30 and 50 years of age and the females usually produce eggs only once every four or five years. They also do not lay eggs on just any beach. They will migrate back to their beach of birth, which sometimes can be more than 3,000 kilometres away. Their ability to find their way back to that particular beach, deftly navigating across an ocean world of deadly predators, is considered to be one of the greatest exploits in the animal kingdom.

The peak nesting season for turtles is from April to September. Due to the decline in turtle populations and deliberate poaching of turtles’ eggs, meat and shells, Sarawak Forestry has created a conservation program involving the local communities. As part of the project, turtle eggs are removed from the nests and placed in guarded hatcheries from which young hatchlings are released at night to reduce losses from predators. In addition, some are tagged with radio tracking devices to learn more about their ecology and life cycle. Pulau Satang Besar, the largest of the four Turtle Islands, is open to visitors, but conservation takes top priority over tourism. In fact, parts of the island and surrounding sea are off-limit to visitors.

Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary

Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary is situated in Pahang, 160 kilometres from Kuala Lumpur City. To get there, take the Karak Highway toward Lancang. Before reaching the elephant sanctuary, you pass through the Che’ Wong Orang Asli (aborigines) settlement, the last tribe of its kind in Malaysia.

Gandah Elephant Sanctuary was set up in 1989 and is managed by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks Malaysia. Its main objective is to continue locating, subduing and then relocating wild elephants to a bigger and safer jungle reserve when their natural habitat is being encroached upon by human development. It is estimated that only 1,200 wild Asian elephants are left in Malaysia, and Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary is the only conservation centre that provides safe sanctuary for these elephants rescued from all over the Malaysian Peninsula.

Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary also looks after orphaned elephants to ensure their continued survival. At present the sanctuary houses a number of elephants brought in from Thailand , India and Myanmar. These elephants are trained and used in the process of translocating wild elephants found in problem areas throughout Malaysia. The sanctuary strives to promote public awareness of the elephants’ plight in Malaysia and to educate the public on the importance of habitat and environmental preservation. Visitors are welcomed to join the elephant activities throughout the year and take part in one-of-a-kind adventures.

Thinking of ecotravel in Malaysia? Plan your trip with Oshin and the local experts at MegaBorneo Tour Planners, a whl.travel local connection in Borneo (Brunei & Sarawak) and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

In this week’s Video Spotlight feature, Joerg Daiber makes use of ’tilt shift’ photography to bring a completely unique perspective to what would otherwise be familiar scenes filmed in some of Thailand‘s most popular destinations.

The careful manipulation of scale, blur and time creates an effect that tricks the eye. Scenes take on a miniature quality – buildings look like models and pedestrians become stick figures.

The title – Toy Thailand – is apt, not just because of the feeling of reduced size, but also as a result of the way things move. The sped-up movements resemble clockwork unwinding – a slightly jerky feeling that adds to the overall dream-like effect.

It’s not an exaggeration to say that short films like this that add clever twists show us a new way of looking at the world. It’s fun and entertaining, but it also helps to keep things in perspective – no pun intended.

He is a member of the Jabaleya tribe, one of the seven tribes of the South Sinai region. This unique tribe is a mixture of Arab and Eastern European blood, descendants of the soldiers of Emperor Justinian, who brought them in to guard the Monastery of St. Katherine. The Jabaleya continue to be passionate about the monastery, one of the oldest continually inhabited monasteries in the world and home to some of the oldest icons and most precious early manuscripts of Christianity, including the oldest bible in the world.

St. Katherine Protectorate is a delicate, high-altitude desert ecosystem that was established in 1988. Over 300 different species of  flora have been recorded in the area, including 20 found nowhere else in the world. Covering about 4,350 square kilometres of land in the southern Sinai Peninsula, the protectorate also supports mammal species, including the rock hyrax, Nubian ibex, Dorcas gazelle, red fox. It even hosts about 35 different reptile species, the majority which are endemic to the region.

Today, pilgrims come to climb Mt. Sinai (2285 metres) and see the place where, according to the Old Testament, the Prophet Moses received the Ten Commandments. Most travellers come to experience the sunrise, so partaking in an afternoon ascent allows trekkers to have the mountain nearly all to themselves.

A truly unique experience puts travellers in touch with the local people, including during an overnight just near the base of the mountain. Here, travellers set up camp with a Bedouin guide. The Bedouin are very honest and gentle people who are ‘at one with nature’ and expert gardeners. Visitors have the chance to walk through an area called Wadi Itlah, which is charmingly sprinkled with Bedouin- and monk-owned gardens from which are sourced the ingredients for lunch. The tour through the fields includes instruction about almonds, apricots and some authentic hybrid fruits crafted by the locals.

This Photo of the Week is offered as part of U.S. National Tourist Appreciation Day.

Colourful sea life abounds along the shores of Barbados. There are numerous ways to see it, including diving, snorkelling and underwater submarine tours. Photo courtesy of flickr/ben.ramirez

As much as Barbados exists on land, it has even more to offer in the water surrounding it. In addition to swimming, snorkelling and diving, there are numerous water tours in Barbados that introduce you to the local Caribbean sea life. A submarine tour brings you close to the colourful coral, exotic fish and colonial shipwrecks hiding just beneath the surface. And of course no Caribbean vacation is complete without a few hours to sunbathe on the deck of a boat, jumping in the water every now and then to cool down and swim with the turtles.

In order to keep the translucent waters around Barbados clear and the beaches clean, many local Barbados hotels and tour operators are committed to being environmentally friendly. Almond Beach Casuarina Hotel and Almond Beach Club and Spa, for example, are Green Globe Certified. An international organization that has helped set the standard for sustainable global tourism, Green Globe ensures that businesses meet high standards in a range of interrelated spheres, including sustainable management, social and economic stability, and cultural and environmental preservation.

The Morgan Lewis windmill stands proudly on the east coast of Barbados, overlooking the Scotland District. This former sugar plantation mill was built in the early 1700s and worked until approximately 1945. It was one of the longest-operating and best-preserved mills in the Caribbean. Photo courtesy of Barbados Tourism Authority

Many local Barbados residents – Bajans – trace their roots back to the West African slaves who were transplanted over to work on the sugar plantations. The sugar industry is still one of the primary economic forces underpinning the economy after centuries of colonial influence. Contemporary Bajan culture is rich, warm and friendly, the foundation of the strong infrastructure the island enjoys.

Native Caribbean islander Daniel Anderson of Barefoot Travel & Tours is thrilled to be offering local Bajan insight through www.barbados-hotels.travel, part of the whl.travel network.

The Sunbury Plantation House is a relic of Barbados’ colonial days. It was built around 1660 by one of the first English settlers on the island. His family’s descendants have lived for generations in the Caribbean. Photo courtesy of Barbados Tourism Authority

“I think joining whl.travel is a great opportunity for Barefoot Travel & Tours to stand out from other international tour operators since we are based in the country in which we operate,” commented Anderson. “Our knowledge of our island, culture and people cannot be matched. We know best and will always be on hand to direct and ensure that the visitor gets to enjoy every aspect of our island. They will get the opportunity to mix and mingle with the locals and take part in activities and events on the same level that a Bajan would.”

Anderson is also no stranger to the growing international push for local sustainability; he’s been adopting and cleaning Barbados beaches for years, as well as supporting local cultural events and raising funds for a Barbados Children’s Home.

The east coast of Barbados is well known for its rugged beauty. Here, Atlantic rollers break against large rocks and form beautiful mist and foam, and reefs form in small pools close to shore in the wake of the waves. This is also the location of the 'Soup Bowl,' a popular spot for surfing and the scene of an annual international competition. Photo courtesy of Barbados Tourism Authority

“I choose to join whl.travel because of the emphasis that is put into the care and development of the island and its people,” concluded Anderson. “Lots of other tour operators are not interested in the development or sustainability of the countries in which they operate. I also think whl.travel is a great medium through which Barbados can be noticed by travellers who are conscious about sustainable development.”

Barbados joins a growing list of Caribbean destinations, including Antigua and Barbuda, Nevis, St. Kitts and St. Lucia.

In the United States, $15,000 may buy you a used car, a family vacation of sorts, or maybe even a half-year’s tuition at a state university or a private school in a big city.

In Tanzania, that same $15,000 covers the entire annual budget for the Jifundishe Free Library in Ngongongare Village in the Arusha District of northern Tanzania. Jifundishe is one of only a handful of free, independent community libraries in the entire country and is now the model for a new community library initiative taking place across the country.

At Jifundishe, that $15,000 pays for the staff of eight; a large assortment of magazines and newspapers; maintenance fees; study materials, markers, paper and ink; adult literacy classes; children’s programs; an Independent Study program; Internet access; special offerings including movie nights, medical exams, mosquito net distribution, and more.

The Jifundishe Free Library in rural northern Tanzania offers a wide range of community programs that include adult literacy classes, children’s workshops, an Independent Study program and much more. Photo by Anne Wells

And to assess the community impact of this modest investment, all you need to do is look around.

At one of the six laptops in the small, window-lined computer lab at the front of the main building, Amani H. Amani, 24, tutors a 35-year-old woman who has come to learn about the Internet. Not long ago, Amani was the student. At 15, he left home after dropping from school due to family struggles and poverty. Amani went to work on a flower farm and held little hope on finishing his education. However, after hearing about the Jifundishe library and its free access to text books, he moved hundreds of miles to come learn. Amani lives in a small room in the village and supports himself through odd jobs, such as slashing grasses and tutoring students for cooking oil and rice. After more than four years of perseverance and hard work, studying day in and day out at the library and through Jifundishe’s Independent Study (IS) program, Amani was recently one of seven students to prepare for, and pass, the Tanzanian equivalent of the GED exam, which makes him eligible for university.

The local Jifundishe Knitting Club knits wares which are sold at library fundraisers across America. Photo by Anne Wells

During Jifundishe’s IS program’s first year in 2010, 27 students, ages 15 to 55, received access to necessary textbooks, regularly scheduled classes by volunteer teachers, kerosene for evening study at home, and funds to take the exam itself. One-hundred percent of those taking the Form 4 exam passed, as compared to only 50 percent from government schools. Seventy-five percent of Jifundishe’s IS students who sat for the Form 2 exam passed, as compared to only 30 percent from government schools.

At a long table between the stacks that hold the library’s 5,000-plus books, Isaac Nanyaro, the head teacher from the local Imbaseni Primary School, works up new lesson plans. Isaac meets many of his students here at Jifundishe and attributes his school’s 75 percent rise in test scores over the past few years directly to the library’s provision of access to text books and tutors. “We have no funds for books,” says Nanyaro, whose 20 teachers are responsible for nearly 1,000 students. “Even our teachers come to the library to further their own studies.”

Outside on the back porch, curled up in a shiny red wheelchair, sits Goodness, a severely disabled woman who spent the first 25 or so years of her life (no one knows exactly how old she is, including Goodness) tucked away in her family’s mud home. Since the first library opened in 2005, Goodness’s brothers have carried her back and forth one mile each way from her home. At the library, she visits with patrons and works closely with staff and volunteers. Over the years, Goodness has learned to read and write, and knit, too. With her gnarled, bowed hands, she makes some of the most beautiful puppets, hats, and scarves the Jifundishe Knitting Club has ever seen. Each club member is paid by the library for her wares, which are then sold at fundraisers across America. Within her first year of working with the club, Goodness earned enough to purchase her first proper wheelchair.

Further out back in the neatly manicured garden, at a lawn table tucked in the shade of some trees, Angelina Laisser, 56, works with Jifundishe’s women’s cooperative, Jiendeleze (“advance yourself”), to make Barefoot Beads, a unique jewelry product for the feet. Angelina and the other five women in the cooperative are paid by the library for each item they produce and then an equal amount is deposited into a collective fund, which the women manage themselves. Their first fund was used to pay for them all to travel to Arusha to have their eyes checked. For most of the women, it was their first and only time ever seeing a doctor of any kind. Their second fund was used to purchase seeds for planting in their small fields. The collective’s “Barefoot Beads” are sold mostly in Tanzanian coastal resorts.

Angelina combines her Jiendeleza income with the money she earns from her piggery, which she started after finding a book at the library about how to raise and care for pigs, to care for her three children and ailing mother.

Goodness, a local patron, has been coming to the library since 2005. Through her skillful knitting she earned enough to purchase a proper wheelchair and has also learned to read and write. Photo by Anne Wells

In the community room, a separate building to the left of the courtyard, Doricas Unvanjoka, 16, works with a Canadian volunteer to practice her English. Doricas, her mother, and five brothers and sisters were abandoned by her father years ago and left with no home, no money, and no land. Today, Doricas is one of Jifundishe’s 40 ‘Houston’ scholarship students. The program was started by Annie and Andre Houston after Annie visited Tanzania in 2007, and it covers the complete cost of a four-year education at a government school, which is about $1,000–$1,200. Each year, more than 50 students apply for three to five coveted spots. Doricas’s oldest sister, Debora, was one of the first Houston scholars. She graduated from secondary school and is now studying nursing in Moshi, supported financially by former Jifundishe volunteers from the United Kingdon.

The secret to Jifundishe’s success? “While we are always struggling to make ends meet, we are blessed with a dedicated staff, a phenomenal group of international volunteers, and an involved and committed Board,” says executive director Deb Kelly, 55, who made Tanzania her home after founding Jifundishe in 2003. “And our community cares deeply for this library and embraces it as their own, so ultimately, it is.”

Next:

• Part IV Beyond Books in Tanzania: The Maktaba Project & The New Tanzanian Community Library Association

Anne Wells is the founder and director of UNITE The World With Africa, a social organization working to provide impactful connections, resources and expertise to help advance women’s health, education and microfinance programs in Tanzania. She recently launched a new online store called The Ashe’ Collection, a 100% philanthropic initiative to grow an international demand for African artistry and raise funds to support UNITE’s work in East Africa. For more information, email Anne at atmwells(at)gmail(dot)com.

Kyabobo (pronounced CHAY-a-bobo) may not be easy to reach, via rough roads from either the north or the south, but travellers note it is well worth the effort. Get there and you will be rewarded: chances are that you won’t cross paths with another tourist the entire time.

In Ghana, Kyabobo National Park is set against the unmistakable twin peaks knowns locally as the Breast Mountains. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

Covering New Terrain

Kyabobo is Ghana’s newest national park, stretching over 360 square kilometres and contiguous with Fazao National Park, just across the border in Togo. Seen from a distance, Kyabobo’s Breast Mountains, so named for the distinctive shape of two adjacent hills, are at its front door. The rest of the park is surrounded by dry plains that rise into hilly terrain covered in semi-deciduous forest.

Nkwanta is the nearest town and the gateway to Kyabobo. About four kilometres from the park headquarters, it is on the main north-south road running from the Volta region to northern Ghana in the area between Lake Volta and Togo. Since Kyabobo is really the only tourist draw in the area and well off Ghana’s tourist circuits, not many travellers make it Nkwanta. There are a couple of good reasons why, the main being how long and dusty the road is. By public transport, it can take two days to reach Nkwanta from Tamale with at least one transfer. There is also direct transportation from Accra that takes around eight hours.

Given the challenges of getting to Kyabobo, it is well worth staying a few days. Fortunately there are some good options for accommodation in the area. The Gateway and Kilimanjaro are good hotels in Nkwanta. At the park headquarters there are two nicely equipped guesthouses, each with a kitchen and bathroom, and camping sites. There are a number of other camps within the park, including a platform on top of a mountain ridge overlooking the shrine of the village of Kue.

A bridged trailhead leads the way into Ghana's Kyabobo National Park and toward a waterfall. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

Nature and Culture in Kyabobo

Everyone who enjoys the outdoors will find something exciting at Kyabobo, especially the network of trails for hiking, waterfalls to visit, biking, camping, canoeing, wildlife viewing and inner tubing on the Kue River. Hiking is the best way to explore the park. While there are some great trails only a couple of hours long or day hikes to waterfalls, others span the entire park and can take several days to complete involving some solitary camping. To get a good feel for the park, try the four-hour round-trip trek to Laboum Falls. You can extend it with another hour or two of hiking to the upper falls.

During any activity, animals to be spotted in the park include elephants, leopards, buffalo, waterbuck and several primate species. Unfortunately, due to the density of the forest and the steep hilly terrain, not everyone will be lucky enough to spy much large wildlife, although there are smaller more visible species bushbuck and duikers. You can also count on seeing butterflies and birds. Recent park surveys indicate the presence of at least 500 species of butterflies and 235 birds.

The symbol for the park is the rock hyrax, which is a large and very common rodent in Ghana, sometimes called a grass cutter. Roadside merchants often sell them… in the form of kabobs. In the wild, they are often seen on rocky outcroppings within the park.

For culture buffs, surrounding the park are a number of small communities called the Hanging Villages. They are said to resemble villages in the Himalayas that hug the sides of the mountains. Some even have shrines and hikes around the villages that guests can experience after visiting and drinking local gin with the chief. They’re accessible on foot or by bicycle. Travellers can even enjoy settling into village life with an overnight homestay.

A staff guide from the Wildlife Division of Ghana in Kyabobo National Park demonstrates how a leaf can be used as a cup to drink water. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

An Ecotourism Future

The park represents a very interesting attempt to balance the goals of environmental protection, ecotourism and the preservation of endangered communities. It is an ongoing experiment with high stakes – the survival of the area’s natural and human environment.

Organisation at Kyabobo is still in its early stages, however, so be patient and persistent when seeking information. Right now, a new visitors’ area definitely serves as an essential part of the learning experience – you can at least count on finding brochures at the park entrance – and the proceeds help the surrounding communities.

Additionally, for the host communities, ecotourism means “improved livelihood activities” or jobs as guides, cooks and craftspeople. The income generated from the park is used for local development projects, like bringing electricity to nearby communities and providing materials for the construction of schools and toilets.

If you are looking for an active vacation to a naturally beautiful and undiscovered part of Ghana, and if you are interested in contributing to a vital and ongoing real-world learning experience, Kyabobo Park is well worth the dusty road trip it takes to get there and back.

Perhaps no other continent encompasses such a diverse collection of countries and cultures as Europe. From the beautiful forests and medieval towns of the Balkan and Baltic states to the splendid scenery of the Alps, the eternal allure of the Mediterranean and Atlantic seaboards, and the cultural heritage and stylish character of its urban spaces, Europe has an obvious appeal that attracts travellers from all around the world. In fact, more than 480 million international tourists per year have been visiting the continent lately, thanks in part to its open borders and well-established tourism infrastructure.

Given the size and scope of Europe, though, visitors often only see what’s presented on packaged travel itineraries. They never experience the plenty that awaits independent travellers who choose to explore the continent at their own pace. And for the earth-conscious, Green Path Transfers – the world’s largest, global, ground-transfer service focused on eco-friendly operators and greening the market – now offers secure, reliable and competitively priced 100-percent carbon-offset transport in key destinations in Europe and well beyond.

This Citroen Jumpy Business 2.0 HDi at the Akropolis shopping center in Vilnius, Lithuania, is one of The Beautiful Land of Nevermind's two minivans. Photo courtesy of the The Beautiful Land of Nevermind

Superb European Sights

Having launched in March 2011, Green Path Transfers quickly assumed the mantle as market leader in eco-friendly intercity and airport transfers worldwide. Catering to business and leisure travellers alike, the company offers local transport by taxi, limousine and shuttle in more than 300 destinations. For this young and rapidly growing network, a far-reaching presence in Europe – one that reaches its most exciting cities and noteworthy sights – was clearly a vital step.

“It’s great to see Green Path Transfers accessing such a diverse, interesting continent,” says Adrian Cordiner, CEO of Green Path Transfers. “We look forward to making travel easier within Europe by providing comfortable, efficient and eco-friendly transport to visitors from around the world.”

For travellers keen to discover the fashionable metropolis of Milan, the historic architecture of Rome or the resplendent artwork and canals of Venice, Green Path Transfers now offers instantly bookable and hassle-free connections throughout Italy.

Likewise, many culturally renowned capitals of Germany are easily within reach via carbon-offset transport between Frankfurt, Munich and beautiful Berlin.

Taxi Ecologico in Barcelona, Spain, has a fleet of eco-friendly vehicles, including the Opel Zafira (pictured above), which has been converted to run on compressed natural gas

For visitors who might wish to explore the vast expanse of Russia, the company offers transfers between countless cities and historic towns, from Black Sea beach resorts such as Sochi to world-famous imperial cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Many more European destinations await as part of the large and growing network of responsible local transport operators.

Going Green

For Green Path Transfers, going green means making a conscientious commitment to sustainable practices, green technology and putting travellers on the right road to a less toxic future. Focused on the growing eco-friendly sector of the ground-transportation industry, the company goes a good green step further than any other transfer company by both neutralising all of its carbon emissions with its 100-percent carbon-offset policy.

Part of Traventuria's clean 10-vehicle fleet in Bulgaria is a Mercedes Sprinter that can fit up to nine people. Photo courtesy of Traventuria

Whether you are travelling from the airport to the Hermitage Art Museum at the historic centre of St. Petersburg, heading south to Barcelona for a glimpse of some of the world’s finest architecture by Antoni Gaudí or rounding out your time with a comfortable transfer to the Polish city of Krakow, Green Path Transfers’ focus on environmental responsibility means both corporate and leisure travellers can reduce their carbon footprints without increasing their costs.

Green Path Transfers is today also pleased to help global travellers to Europe arrange environmentally responsible transport in cities and towns as wide-ranging as Athens, Greece; Bucharest, Romania; Budapest, Hungary; Bratislava, Slovakia; Chisinau, Moldova; Dublin, Ireland; Paris and the French Alps; Lisbon, Portugal; Medjugorje, Bosnia-Herzegovina; Prague, Czech Republic; Sevastapol, Ukraine; Sofia, Bulgaria; Tallinn, Albania; Tbilisi, Georgia; and Vienna, Austria.

“We’re proud of the commitment that all of our local partners around the world have made toward a greener future,” adds Cordiner. “We are continually looking at ways to offer better services, cheaper prices and more eco-friendly vehicles to our customers.”

For more information on Green Path Transfers and how to book environmentally responsible transport, please visit www.greenpathtransfers.com.

In the beautiful region of Wayanad in Kerala, India, where dense jungle carpets the rolling mountains in the Western Ghats, lies a magical hidden gem. The quiet village of Thrikkaipetta in the heart of this breathtaking region is a beacon for community spirit and an inspiration for ethical tourism.

The ‘Bamboo Village’ of Thrikkaipetta, in the beautiful Wayanad region of Kerala, India. Photo courtesy of Kabani.org

Rural Wayanad’s delightful climate and rich biodiversity make it a vastly agricultural population (almost 50 percent of the inhabitants rely on farming for income). Like many places across the globe, farming here has been hit by financial strain due to declining market prices for crops. This problem has resulted in devastating problems for the Wayanad farming community, and very sadly resulted in suicides.

The community here, proud of their land and culture, have created a cooperative that generates additional income for farmers, empowers local people through job creation and provides ethical tourism opportunities.

Thrikkaipetta’s Bamboo Village was initiated by local people who are passionate about improving life for the community. It is a community-led bamboo nursery, using the resultant materials to create traditional crafts, food products, for environmental protection and as a tourism attraction. Visiting their bamboo workshop is like stepping into Santa’s grotto! It is incredible to see so many local people employed, busy creating a huge selection of products.

Many travellers are interested in helping the local farmers to plant rice in the fields. Photo courtesy of Kabani.org

As the Bamboo Village has gone from strength to strength, it became clear that the tourism offer here could be expanded and provide an even greater opportunity for additional income. Local responsible tourism campaigning NGO, Kabani, has partnered with the Bamboo Village’s management, Uravu, and the groups pulled together their expertise on agricultural life and how best develop a tourist infrastructure that would offer enriching tourist experiences and improve the lives of local people.

Today tourists from across the globe can come and enjoy the Bamboo Village’s ethical homestays. Visitors can enjoy a tranquil location with a friendly local family, feast on traditional home cooked food and fruits from their homestay’s plantation. Guests can also join an eye-opening village tour, learning about the diverse crops growing locally and participating in cultural exchange events.

A group of tribal artists demonstrate the traditional tribal art form 'Vattakali,' an intricate form of dance. Photo courtesy of Kabani.org

In addition to the unique learning experiences, guests can rest assured that 50 percent of the money paid for their cozy homestay is being reinvested into the community they have enjoyed getting to know. This money is helping to develop a community fund that provides crucial training for villagers (such as organic farming and healthy living education), youth projects and sustainable tourism development.

Blair Coburn from the UK recently stayed with a family in the Bamboo Village. “The opportunity to stay with a local family was a privilege. It was fantastic to know that my stay not only helped my wonderful hosts, but was helping to support the wider community through their training and development fund. I particularly enjoyed getting to shop for unique bamboo products, they made wonderful gifts to take home, and at the same time buying them has directly helped the women who made them.”

Learn to surf (with dolphins!) at the Coffee Shack Backpackers in South Africa, which aims to have the cheapest and best lessons in the world: just US$5 for two hours with board and wetsuit included.

Surfing Lessons

If you want to be standing on your board in no time, consider for a holiday that includes lessons. Even if you can stand up on your board, there’s a good chance that you have to break a few bad habits. Whilst they may not hamper you in the short term, to develop as a surfer you’ll want dodgy techniques to disappear ASAP.

Also, the sea can be a dangerous place. Over time you learn how to surf safely, but the risks from rip currents, tidal changes and anything else under your board are well worth learning about right from the start. A decent lesson will cover this.

Where Should You Go?

Everyone wants different things from a surf holiday. Advanced surfers might be looking for big waves or long tubes. You may also know whether you prefer a point break, beach break or a reef break (a ‘surf break’ is the sub-sea structure which causes a wave to break). Less-advanced surfers may well be looking for smaller waves, finishing on a pleasant beach somewhere.

There are literally thousands of surf-destination options, though. All you really need is a beach, a wave and somewhere to stay. If you’ve got a bit of cash to spend, the idyllic beaches of the Galapagos, Australia or even the Solomon Islands may be tempting, but don’t forget places closer to home too. In and around the UK, there’s world-class surfing in Ireland, Scotland and Cornwall. You just might need to wrap up a bit warmer.

Waves for Development offers two-week surf voluntourism expeditions in Peru, where you live, surf and serve in the remote community of Lobitos.

What to Take on a Surfing Holiday?

Now that you’ve decided to go on a surf holiday, think about what you want to take with you. If you’ve decided to go where the sea is warm, you’ll probably be alright surfing in your board shorts or bikini (with plenty of sun cream on, of course). if you’re going somewhere slightly more chilly, though, you will want to wear a wetsuit to keep warm. Tailored to a variety of conditions, these come in different thicknesses. It’s also possible to get gloves and booties too to keep the extremities comfy. Needless to say, a tour operator should be able to give you good advice and may also have equipment for hire.

If you want to buy your own kit, look at how it has been made. Being immersed in the sea, you want it to be clean, so keep an eye out for products fabricated with the environment in mind. Have a read of this infographic about the toxicity of surfing.

What to Do When You’re Not Surfing?

You can’t guarantee the waves, so think a bit more about what else will be available where you’re going. If you want nightlife, then there are many places where you can combine city fun with surfing – perhaps Lagos in Portugal or Newquay in Cornwall. You might instead want to chill out, get a tan and read a book. In this case try somewhere a little off the beaten track; Nicaragua has some fantastic surf, for example.

Many surf operators are now also offering other activities on their holidays. Yoga is a great when combined with surfing – relaxing and great for your core muscles. There are many other places offering guests the opportunity to get involved in conservation projects whilst on holiday.

UP2U Surf School in Bali runs introduction-to-surfing family surf lessons good for all ages.

Anything Else to Look Out for?

It goes without saying that the company you holiday with has a massive effect on your experience. The waves could be awesome, but if your accommodation, the local staff or food is poor, you might not have a great time. Conversely, a great company will be able to make sure your holiday is a success even if the waves are flat.

Our top tip? Try holidaying with a locally run company. The owners are going to know everything there is to know about the waves, the area and surfing. They’re going to inspire you with their passion, and it’s their livelihood – you enjoying your holiday is their biggest priority. You’ll also be helping the local community – and quite possibly the environment too – so look out for companies with sustainability policies in place.

Looking for a surf holiday? Check out the Much Better Adventures’ Surf Holidays page.

We’re compelled to ask: What is tourism in its worst form, environmentally? Even in its best form, can the cost to the earth of tourism ever really be offset?

These are the questions that drive the staff at the WHL Group, the largest local-travel company in the world. With decades of combined experience in the sustainable travel and tourism industry, our insight into the issues is impressive.

And here are our answers to the question “What is tourism’s greatest threat to the environment?”

Tourism poses a threat to the environment when local communities scramble to meet the inflated expectations of uninformed vacationers. Photo courtesy of flickr/vallartavelas

“I think the biggest threat tourism poses to the environment – beyond carbon emissions and natural resource wasting – is when people travel to a new country, a new city or a new community without an understanding of that area’s social and economic life. it’s when people travel to parts of the world where the currency is weaker simply because it’s ‘cheaper,’ bringing with them expectations of luxuries, resorts and vacation, and without thinking critically about how their expectations impact the local community and its necessity to meet those expectations in order to generate business.”
~ Jenna Makowski, Content Editor, whl.travel

In places like Vietnam, environmental consideration takes a back seat to economic growth. The tourism sector is a perfect example of that. Photo courtesy of flickr/staminajim

“One of the most noticeable threats to the environment is the construction of new mega resorts along undisturbed coastal areas. It’s a hard thing to stop, especially in some developing countries like Vietnam, where consideration for the environment takes a distant second place to growth as a priority. A good example is the once-untouched China Beach near Hoi An in central Vietnam, which is a developers paradise and now a construction site of luxury resorts. Unfortunately, tourism will continue to drive this sort of development at even more secluded locations around the world.”
~ Luke Ford, CEO, Gunyah

While on a tour of the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, I was struck by not only the exploitation of the local people, but also by the disrespect shown to the lake. This vital water resource is already in great jeopardy. This was the saddest tour I have ever been on. Photo courtesy of Maureen Valentine

“The pressure that tourism puts on already unstable local resources in many developing nations is the largest threat for the future of those destinations, combined with the pressure on lacking infrastructure systems like sewage and transport. Many destinations are in short supply of energy, water and food (which tourists generally take the best of). It is a real challenge as a tourist to truly tread lightly in vulnerable destinations.”
~ Maureen Valentine, Director, Hotel Link Solutions

“Tourism can be a powerful destructive force, particularly in the hands of those looking for short term gain. When ecologically sensitive areas are not well managed, the results can be dire. Although tourists are becoming more aware of their negative impact, few will actively try to reduce it unless prompted to do so. The rules of travel should be set by the destinations themselves. They need to lead the way by declaring what is and isn’t acceptable and then sticking to it. Tourists will respect natural attractions more if it’s clear that the local communities hold them in high regard.”
~ Jen Aston, Director, whl.travel Africa regional office

Carbon-neutral local transport like horseback riding is one way to address emissions from travel. For inevitable flights, surprisingly affordable carbon-offset programs are in place. Photo courtesy of Lindsay Young

“I think there are numerous tourism-initiated environmental threats, but perhaps the most pervasive is air travel and its associated emissions. Air travel has facilitated the growing accessibility of previously remote destinations, much to the delight of travellers and the chagrin of environmentalists and locals. The problem is that air travel isn’t going away. No matter how many travellers engage in slow travel and make the effort to travel by anything but planes, air travel remains the most time-efficient and generally most feasible mode of transportation. Also, non-air travel isn’t always environmentally friendly either.

Walking the fine line between use and exploitation in Boracay, Philippines, an eagle is kept strapped to a branch so tourists can take their holiday photo. They can have it on their shoulders for as long as they want, and of course, should give a small donation to keep the business alive. Photo courtesy of Andre Franchini

So what to do when there’s no easy answer? Do the best you can. We can’t always travel emission-free, like by horse or kayak, but we can at least travel carbon-neutral. Personally, I strive to travel as close to carbon-neutral as possible. I do this by purchasing Gold Standard carbon-offset credits, which go to support low-carbon projects all over the world. I’ve written more about it in my blog. The good news is that purchasing carbon offsets isn’t as costly as most people think. My five-ish hour flight to Panama and back was offset for about Canadian $40. It’s a small price to pay for having access to the magnificent places we can fly to.”
~ Lindsay Young , Digital Marketing Specialist, Urban Adventures

“The biggest threat is not only that tourism can damage the local environment and its species, but also that it inadvertently exploits natural resources as a tourist attraction. It comes down to mindset and striking a delicate balance. Since some practices are culturally accepted and have been part of local community traditions for centuries, the work to change the way people see their natural resources and empower them to capitalise on their home’s natural endowments through tourism (without exploiting them) is not an easy task.”
~ André Franchini, CEO, Hotel Link Solutions

This question reminded me of a visit to Uluru (Ayer’s Rock) in central Australia. Our Aboriginal guide appealed to us not to climb the rock, reminding us that doing so is as disgraceful and disrespectful to Aboriginal culture as climbing the altar at Saint Peter’s in Rome would be in Catholicism. Travellers’ defiance of the host culture’s preferences is now affecting the rock and the environment around it.

This is just one example of many in which visitors come with neither foreknowledge nor sensitivity enough to appreciate (and respect) the unique qualities of a place, both natural and manmade. It’s a process that includes, in the search for adventure, travellers’ pursuit of off-the-beaten-path destinations that are perhaps not entirely suitable as tourism attractions.

A universal travel ethic that includes education about cultural literacy is essential to sustainability. It means travellers police themselves, but also put a brake on irresponsible tourism destination development by host cultures trying to cash in on travellers’ ignrorance.
~ Ethan Gelber, Chief Communications Officer, WHL Group

Thousands of limestone karsts and islands draw tons of visitors to Ha Long Bay in Vietnam. But mangroves and seagrass beds have been cleared out to make room for tourist boats. What will be left for tourists of the future to see? Photo courtesy of Ashley Hiemenz

“Rapid growth in tourism has been staggering in many developing nations, where it is often the case that natural attractions serve as the main draw for travellers. When tourism in these ecologically sensitive areas is unregulated, the environment can be severely damaged, and development can ultimately destroy tourists’ main incentive to visit.”
~ Ashley Hiemenz Product Manager, Gunyah

Profit-driven overdevelopment for tourism can harm delicate ecosystems like beaches, wetlands, and rain forests.

“It’s hard not to notice the physical impacts of mass-market tourism and the destructive influence it can have on local environments. Poor development decisions such as extensive building on beaches or bulldozing over wetlands create irreversible damage here on planet earth and the big players who make these irresponsible decisions need to be held accountable. I’d say corporate greed is the most immediate threat to the environment, which is why it’s so important to get involved. It’s up to travellers like us to supply the checks and balances: write to your government or join a local non-profit to advocate for better and more sustainable land uses.”
~ Laurel Angrist , Editor, The Travel Word

“I think there are a lot of tourism’s threats that impact our planet negatively, but the good news is that each of us can help to reduce them and do our bits for the environment. Litter, for example. In Latvia there is a project driven by voluntary participation to keep our environment tidy, bring people together and see results. It’s called “The Big Clean-up.” Last April there were around 150,000 participants in 1,354 cleanup locations across the whole country. Hopefully this year (30th April) the turnout will be even better as this project has become very popular in Latvia. Foreigners, visitors and travellers welcome!
~ Anda Cirule, Director, whl.travel Europe and the Middle East regional office

"We need to change our demand so that the developers change what they supply. We need to demand sustainability as a standard." Photo courtesy of flickr/Jeff Croft

“In addition to the threats posed by the carbon emissions generated by international air travel, perhaps the most significant concern is the impact that opportunistic development has on destinations. We all love visiting beautiful places and we want those places to be as accessible to as many people as possible and for them to be cheap for us to visit. We’ve created the demand, so it’s hypocritical for us then to decry the developers who slap up blocks of apartments on stretches of pristine coastline. We wanted to see it and we didn’t want to pay much to go there.

What we need to realise is that sustainability has a cost attached to it, but also that sustainability is an inherently good thing – easily worth its price. It’s cheap to eat junk food all the time, but you don’t do it because it ruins your body! We need to change our demand so that the developers change what they supply. We need to demand sustainability as a standard.
~ Paul Tavner , Developer, The Travel Word

“In my experience the biggest problem is short-term thinking and greed. Although it’s not a problem confined to tourism, the best evidence of this in the tourism space is mass tourism, where the natural environment plays second fiddle to ‘development’ and ‘growth.’ The irony is that the very beauty of the place, which was the essence of why people came in the first place, is rapidly degraded, leaving a wasteland (culturally and environmentally) that is no longer of value to either the locals or the tourists.

As a model for tourism I like what is happening in Bhutan. Here the government has taken a measured view and wants to ensure tourism is run sustainably. Numbers of tourists are limited, tourism development is tightly controlled and an enormous effort is placed on win-win-win outcomes – for tourists, for local communities and for the environment. At the core of this is a belief that growth in Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is a poor measure for development’ and instead the country has focused on Gross Domestic Happiness (GDH). Prime Minister Jigmi Thinley of Bhutan is leading the way in defining a new economic paradigm.”
~ Len Cordiner, CEO, WHL Group

“In my opinion, the greatest threat provided by tourism to the environment is the lack of planning. When a tourism activity takes place without planning is when it becomes more dangerous to the environment and the local communities. There are several examples of this – resorts and tourist complexes of gigantic proportions that are completely changing the way of life in local communities. The lack of planning causes the misuse of resources, whether natural or human.”
~ Wallace Faria, Director, whl.travel Americas regional office

“For a country like the Philippines, where poverty is rampant and environmental policies aren’t implemented, tourism’s biggest threat to the environment is tourism itself. One immediate effect is trash. Oftentimes the local government gets so excited about the new influx of tourists (i.e. money) that the environment is ignored. The crowds arrive before systems are in place. In Boracay, for example, the island is developing faster than it can manage, which has lead to waste-management problems and depletion of the shoreline. Tourism also means an increase in demand for resources – more fish will have to be caught, more goods need to be delivered.

It’s always difficult to find that balance between opportunity and environment. What to do? Look at examples of success. In the simple town of Donsol, Sorsogon, whale-shark poaching was successfully converted into whale-shark watching, and what used to be a poor fishing village is now a thriving ecotourism destination visited by thousands every summer. And although they now take very good care of the gentle giants, their numbers have still depleted over the last 20 years. It is a constant battle for environmental conservation and proper environmental education.”
~ Mika Santos, Director, whl.travel Asia and the Pacific regional office

Emperor Shark Fin Soup: Local delicacy or endangered species? Photo courtesy of flikr/avlxyz

“I believe sheer weight of numbers of visitors is the biggest problem. With the explosion of budget airlines and a desire for people to visit ever more destinations, many places seem to struggle with issues such as rubbish, sewage, etc. People wishing to try local ‘delicacies,’ many of which are endangered, is also a concern.”
~ Adrian Cordiner, CEO, Green Path Transfers

As I saw during my year of tourism studies in Mallorca, Spain, cut-rate mass-tourism to beaches like Magaluf takes its toll on the landscape. Photo courtesy of flickr/lloydi

“I think the biggest environmental problem with global tourism is distribution. Cut-rate mass-travel such as Caribbean cruises and all-inclusive resorts tend to concentrate a lion’s share of international tourism in just a few destinations. For these mass-visited hot spots, the problems of land use and the stress on local infrastructure can turn the blessing of tourism into a curse. Places get loved to death.

For travellers, the challenge is creativity. Rather than looking for Walmart-style low prices and hot deals to sandy beaches, think a little more outside the box about where to go. With more and more of the world opening up to international tourism, it’s more possible than ever to find great new places where you can contribute to healthy local growth without overwhelming the natural environment.”
~ Cynthia Ord, Newsletter Editor, The Travel Word

Often described as one of Africa’s last frontiers, Mozambique, a large country in the southeastern part of the continent, is among the most variegated places in the world. Geographically, it has a rugged, underdeveloped north, a hiker’s paradise, along with an extensive coastline with innumerable opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, and scuba diving.

The population is just as diverse, reflecting the indigenous African tribes who first settled there, the Arab seafarers who traded along the coast for centuries, and, finally, the Portuguese colonists who ruled until 1975. Despite the many setbacks that have plagued the country since then, including civil war, floods and drought, Mozambique is starting to bounce back and is slowly gaining a well-deserved reputation as a country that promises as much adventure as relaxation.

1. Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park: A massive swath of land that comprises national parks in Mozambique, South Africa and Zimbabwe and allows visitors to cross the borders freely within the park, Limpopo is home to nearly 150 kinds of mammals, including elephants, giraffes and buffalo.

2. Gorongosa National Park: This once-legendary park in northern Mozambique was nearly destroyed during the country’s civil war. Now newly refurbished, it’s returning to its former preeminence and is worth a visit to check out impalas, warthogs, unusual birds and more.

3. Local Fare: In Maputo, feast on some of the ultrafresh seafood caught off Mozambique’s 2,500-kilometer-long coastline; the grilled prawns and octopus are especially good.

4. Montes Chimanimani: Along the Zimbabwe border, this mountain range, thick with pine and mahogany trees and scores of medicinal plants, is ideal for rugged, off-the-beaten-path hiking and camping.

5. Ilha de Moçambique (Mozambique Island): This tiny island off Mozambique’s northern coast was once an important Arab trading port; today its historic, colonial-era buildings and diverse population, with strong Islamic and African ties, make it a fascinating place to explore.

The archipelago das Quirimbas is a collection of 32 coral islands off the Coast of Mozambique. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Spacmonster

6. Archipelago das Quirimbas: These 32 islands off the town of Pemba, which can be reached by motorboat, offer white-sand beaches, snorkeling among coral reefs, and sightings of humpback whales.

7. Ponta de Ouro: Just miles from the South African border in southern Mozambique, this quaint town boasts some of the country’s loveliest beaches and opportunities to scuba dive among dolphins.

8. Lago Niassa: A giant, incredibly clear lake that borders Mozambique, Malawi and Tanzania, Niassa (also known as Lake Malawi) is thought to contain a greater number of fish than any other lake in the world.

9. Angoche: A quiet, historic town in the northern part of the country that still bears the influence of precolonial Swahili and Arab traders, Angoche is worth a quick trip for a look back in time.

10. Manica: Once an important gold trading area, this picturesque town in central Mozambique is now known for its thousand-year-old Chinamapere rock paintings, which are considered sacred by local residents.

Maputo is the capital and largest city of Mozambique. Photo courtesy of Andrew Moir

When to Go

The best time to visit Mozambique is between May and October, when it’s pleasantly sunny and dry and temperatures average 66 degrees Fahrenheit (18.3 degrees Celcius.) The country’s rainy season generally lasts from October to April, with temperatures jumping up to the 80s (20s). Overall, the southern part of the country is cooler and drier than the north.

This means that sometimes we can all end up looking a bit scruffy. That’s fine, since everyone’s in the same boat and no one’s going to judge you when you flop into your hostel bed at the end of a long day of trekking.

But because it’s a gradual process, it’s also easy to lose track of just how wild our appearance may be getting. Until you look back at your holiday snapshots, or finally get around to spending some serious time in front of a mirror, you might be surprised at just how rugged you really looked.

That’s why we love this video from Christopher Rehage, who filmed it as part of an attempt to hike from Beijing to Germany. Here’s a man who’s not only aware of his ruggedness, but actually revels in it. His beard is a badge of honour, which keeps track of the hundreds of miles already walked.

We love a good time lapse video here at The Travel Word. This one is especially nice because it gives you a flavour not just of the places visited, but the person who did the travelling and the ways in which he changed.

Chris, we salute you. And we salute your beard.

Take time for personal reflection and meditation in the peace-filled mountain paths surrounding Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

As an apparition site of the Virgin Mary that is well recognised by Catholics worldwide, Medjugorje is a Bosnian town with deep spiritual poignancy. Pilgrims and soul-searchers come from far and wide to partake in the sanctity of the place, get in touch with visionaries and simply enjoy the grace-filled ambiance. I recommend a minimum of three days in Medjugorje, as the longer you stay the more you can make time for personal prayer, reflection and religious activities in the community.

To start out, follow the path up Apparition Hill where the young visionaries first encountered Our Lady.  As you climb, you can see the inspired artistry of the bronze plaques depicting each mystery of the rosary. If climbing Mount Krizevac is too arduous, there is also a gentler path with the Stations of the Cross around the Risen Christ statue.

Visitors congregate at Cross Mountain, one of the many spiritual draws to the apparition town of Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

In addition, there is a daily International Mass with the Rosary and Healing Prayers, and Veneration of the Cross and Adoration in the evenings. Daily Holy Masses are made in several languages. Frequent talks by local Franciscan priests of the Medjugorje parish are also held in the blessed John Paul II Hall and there is daily adoration of the Blessed Sacrament each afternoon in the Adoration chapel.

Day trips

Before leaving Medjugorje, visit the surroundings full of natural beauty and historical interests. The gem of the region is the famous Waterfalls of Kravice, where in summertime you can swim with the locals or just enjoy the scenery while having a meal or cup of coffee at the nearby restaurant.

For a bit of history, visit the old city of Mostar with its historic bridge rebuilt across the beautiful Neretva River. The bridge and the area around it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander through the narrow streets of the old town filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and historic buildings.

The shimmering waterfalls of Kravice make a great day trip into the beautiful Bosnian countryside surrounding Medjugorje. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

Even closer, in Ljubuski (15 minutes’ drive of Medjugorje), you will find the parish church of St. Anthony, where you can take in the ancients relics of the first Franciscan priests in this area. Then visit ”The Mother” gallery with its splendid portraits and statues.

Not everyone realizes that the town of Medjugorje is also in close proximity to fantastic Balkan cities. A one-day excursion could take you to Sarajevo (the capital of Bosnia) or a four-day trip could cover Dubrovnik and Split in Croatia. If you would like to combine a pilgrimage with some relaxation by the beach, try a day trip to the breathtaking Makarska Riviera along the Adriatic coast.

Shopping

Purchase rosaries, statues or books at different local souvenir and handcrafts shops. You will find interesting wooden crafts of Jesus and Mary, as well as angels and crucifixes hand-carved from Medjugorje stones. Medjugorje souvenirs can be blessed by a priest if you bring them to evening prayer at St. James Church.

Connecting with local priests in Medjugorje, Bosnia, is one of the biggest treats in this spiritual place. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

Restaurants

At mealtime there is a good choice of cafés and restaurants in Medjugorje that serve local cuisine.

Galileo Restaurant is known for its exclusive fish delicacies, and at Columbo Restaurant you will find the best choice of Italian cuisine and other International dishes. Have a meal at Voktor’s Restaurant for the kinds of homemade local specialties that keep people coming back for more.

Local Treats

The biggest treat in Medjugorje is the peaceful time for prayer in such inspired surroundings. Just walk through the fields to the Blue Cross or Apparition Hill. If you stay longer, take time to be a part of Medjugorje’s local community. Meet the families while attending Holy Mass, stop for casual conversation with locals or simply take your quiet time and space for personal reflection.

Catch an outside Mass celebration in Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

Night Out

To liven things up with locals, visit The Garden House, where local musicians play traditional instruments every Friday night. During the evenings, most cafés and restaurants are open. Try a glass of warm red wine or tea while sitting on one of their terraces and enjoying the great people-watching views of the streets from above. You will be able to feel the peaceful yet joyful vibe of quiet little Medjugorje.

Planning a trip to Medjugorje and the Balkan region? Be sure to contact Zana and the other local travel experts at Medjugorje Tours and Travel, the whl.travel local connection in Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina.