The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in Sabah, Borneo, Malaysia, rescues orphaned baby orangutans from logging sites, plantations, illegal hunting and the pet trade. Today, it has become Sabah's top nature-based and wildlife tourist destination. Photo courtesy of Flick/whl.travel

We’ve all visited neglected, underfunded and high-traffic tourist parks where wild and endangered animals have become almost tame. Sites such as these, where regulations are inadequately enforced, are unfortunately far too common. Visiting tour groups are frequently too large or too loud, acting in ways that threaten the local wildlife, disrupting delicate ecosystems and occasionally endangering themselves. Too often “ecotourism” is merely a catchphrase used by proprietors more interested in scoring revenue than in minimising the effects of travel and preserving native habitats.

On the sunny flip side of this is well-planned ecotourism, the kind that helps conserve many outdoor and wilderness spaces that may be a last hope for endangered species. Around the world, successful ecotourism programs are helping to spotlight animal conservation, promoting awareness and drawing dollars to the cause. Many such projects deserve far more attention than they get – which is why we should keep talking about them, spreading the word among friends or “liking” them on Facebook.

The best ecotourism initiatives also take a multi-pronged approach to establishing peaceful coexistence between the worlds of humans and beasts. Successful projects have helped two-legged outsiders understand what’s at stake in some of the world’s most important biodiversity hotspots, and have educated locals and visitors alike about how their actions can help preserve wild animal populations.

Beyond all this, of course, lies economic development. Well-practiced ecotourism brings a wide range of benefits to local communities and serves as a powerful incentive to support the conservation of wildlife. The best models work by linking community development with education and environmental stewardship, creating the right atmosphere for ecotours that protect endangered animals in the wild.

In light of all of this, here are some of our favourite ecotourism and endangered-species conservation programs, courtesy of the WHL Group.

Saving Orphan Orangutans in Sepilok, Northern Borneo, Malaysia

From its headquarters in Malaysian Sabah on the tropical island of Borneo, one local conservation centre has been working hard since 1964 to protect one of mankind’s closest relatives. Here in a local forest reserve is the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, a sanctuary and boarding school for around 25 orphan orangutans.

The centre houses young primates caught during logging operations and confiscated from illegal poachers. Working in close collaboration with the United Kingdom’s Orangutan Appeal, the organisation gives the fostered orangutans the training they need to survive in the wild. Babies are given daily meals of milk and bananas and are nurtured through a buddy system, which partners them with older apes. In this way, many youngsters learn skills, including tree-climbing, that are essential for life in the forest.

The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre can be reached via a 45-minute flight from the city of Kota Kinabalu. At the Centre, a guided walking tour begins with a short informational video. Guests then have the chance to witness a feeding and explore the surrounding forest reserve, home to between 60 and 80 orangutans. All proceeds from the visitors’ entry fees help to run the program.

The magnificent breach of a humpback whale off the Morro de São Paulo coast of Brazil

Protecting the Humpback Whale in Morro de São Paulo, Brazil

Based in the fishing port of Caravelas in the Brazilian state of Bahia, the Instituto Baleia Jubarte works tirelessly to monitor and protect the habitats of humpback whales. The research taking place focuses on whale populations, whale behaviour and human threats to whale conservation. In the legal sphere, the institute has also been instrumental in putting a stop to offshore oil exploration during the humpback whale’s mating season.

One difficulty of studying whales stems from the amount of time they spend completely submerged. When spotted breaching, however, humpbacks put on quite a show. Weighing between 35 and 40 tons, these graceful acrobats nevertheless seem to hang in mid-air.

Humpbacks feed during the summer in polar waters off Antarctica, but when the season turns they migrate north in search of warmer seas in which to breed. From July to October, they are therefore often spotted close to the small village Morro de São Paulo, where a local whale-watching tour is run in partnership with the institute, a portion of the proceeds contributing to whale research. Each tour collects scientific information about the creatures as visitors learn more about whale migration patterns.

The country of Zambia is an important stronghold for the survival of the African lion, especially the 22,400-square-kilometre territory of Kafue National Park. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Liv Unni Sødem

Safeguarding the King of Cats in Countries Throughout Africa

Listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, the African lion has seen its numbers dwindle fast, plummeting by an estimated 30 percent in the last two decades alone. Some top threats to the cats include defensive killings by humans to protect their livestock, reductions in prey and loss of habitat. In the face of this, nongovernmental organisations across the African continent such as the African Lion and Environmental Research Trust (ALERT) are working to set responsible standards that will help in the conservation of these iconic creatures.

In Zambia, the low density of the human population combined with an immense tract of well-preserved parkland have made it a main refuge for the noble African lion. Roughly twice the size of Belgium, the territory of Kafue National Park plays host to the Kafue Lion Project, which helps to ensure the long-term sustainable management of the area by collecting information on the stability of the park’s lion populations. Such data will eventually be used in the development of a countrywide Lion Management Strategy.

Capitalising on this in a responsible fashion, many tours and experiences in Zambia now allow travellers to observe lions in their habitat. From the city of Livingstone, whl.travel local connection Wildside Tours’ lion encounter tour provides an opportunity for visitors to walk amongst the lions. For a bit more distance, a lion safari drive is a good way to watch lions hunt and play against the stunning backdrop of the nearby Dambwa Forest.

Supporting Snow Leopard Conservation in Nepal

Residing in the alpine regions of Central Asia and mountain ranges of the Himalayas, snow leopards survive in some of the world’s harshest climates. There may only be between 4,500 and 7,500 left in the world, although as solitary and elusive animals, they are famed for being difficult to count. Complicating conservation efforts are the hostile conflicts along the international borders where over a third of the animal’s territory falls.

Nepal is known to have a relatively dense snow leopard population, especially throughout the spectacular Annapurna trekking region. Due to their loss of habitat and the area’s omnipresent livestock, the cats have occasionally preyed upon villagers’ sheep and horses. To help stem the tide of retaliatory killings against snow leopards, organisations such as the WWF (formerly known as the World Wildlife Fund) and the Snow Leopard Conservancy work to provide villagers with livestock insurance and other alternative income sources.

One current WWF project focuses on training villagers to set up camera traps that allow for surveying and monitor the cats. This is in additional to helping locals create treks, education initiatives, cultural shows and guided wildlife tours aimed at spotting the elusive snow leopard.

• They’re low-impact buildings that use materials repurposed or found locally, and adhere to sustainable-water and -power practices.
• They’re immersed in beautiful natural areas, which they’re committed to helping preserve, blending in to the surrounding environment, rather than interrupting it.
• They amaze guests with their comfort and elegance, even in the midst of rugged nature.

Inspired, we decided to identify five more great examples of ecolodges all from within the whl.travel network. More than just places to stay, all of these lodges are worth the extra mile it takes to reach them. They just may inspire you to plan a few days of your trip around a memorable ecolodge experience.

Barry's Place on Atauro Island, East Timor. Photo courtesy of www.barrysplaceonatauro.com

Barry’s Place on Atauro Island in East Timor

Atauro is a tiny island in East Timor, located where the East Indian Ocean meets the Arafura Sea. Here, you can plan great Atauro Island adventures like snorkelling the eye-popping coral reef just offshore, renting a bike to cycle around the island, touring by boat to nearby Baucau and even going on guided hiking excursions. For such a small island, options for fun in nature are vast.

We suggest framing your trip to the island around a stay at Barry’s Place. This special lodge boasts an attractive collection of thatch-roofed gazebos and accommodations, all constructed using local materials and labour. You’ll have a choice between sun-drenched cabins right on the beach, bungalows and tent camping.

The #1 reason to stay at Barry’s Place: you can see permaculture in practice, like the re-vegetation of plant species that are endemic to the island.

Click here to book Barry’s Place on Atauro Island.

Monkey Lodge in Panama. Photo courtesy of www.panamacity-hotels.travel

Monkey Lodge in Panama

The whimsical Monkey Lodge sits just outside of Panama City, Panama, near Soberania National Park and Gamboa Lake. It is very reachable from the city, yet far enough away to feel fully immersed in its tropical setting.

The family that operates Monkey Lodge can help you plan awesome ecotours. Join them for a trek on the Camino de Cruces, learn the basics of jungle survival or take a boat trip to nearby Monkey Island, where furry primates are sure to be spotted.

The #1 reason to stay at Monkey Lodge: in-house monkeys Lula, Papaye, and Tita will help host your stay.

Click here to book Monkey Lodge in Panama.

Zen Namkhan Boutique Resort in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of www.luang-prabang-hotels.com

Zen Namkhan Boutique Resort in Luang Prabang, Laos

An eco-chic addition to the Luang Prabang hotel scene, Zan Namkhan is a fusion of deep nature and lush indulgence. Set in the verdant landscape of northern Laos, it is near one all-star attraction: Elephant Village, an ecotourism initiative where visitors can bond with a group of gentle giants who have been saved from the logging industry.

Zen Namkhan itself is stacked with amenities that will make you wish to stay all day and just enjoy. Dine on meals that use ingredients from the organic garden, get a massage or take a yoga or Lao cooking class – all on-site at Zen Namkhan.

The #1 reason to stay at Zen Namkhan: the lagoon-like swimming pool is one of the first eco-friendly pools in Southeast Asia.

Click here to book Zen Namkhan Boutique Resort in Luang Prabang.

Murera Springs Eco Lodge in Kenya. Photo courtesy of www.mountkenyatours-hotels.com

Murera Springs Eco Lodge in Kenya

In Kenya, a newcomer to the ecolodge scene is Murera Springs Eco Lodge, which opened its doors in 2010. Now you can be one of the first to wander around the paths connecting the 15 colourful raised cabins, nestled under a thick tree canopy near Meru National Park.

In an ambiance of thick nature and deep relaxation, many guests opt for a lazy day at the pool and bar, topped off with a cosy campfire at night. Or, they visit a local farm or embark on some prime birdwatching.

The #1 reason to stay at Murera Springs Eco Lodge: they run on 100-percent solar power.

Click here to book Murera Springs Eco Lodge.

Treetop Hotel in Champasak, Laos. Photo courtesy of www.champasak-hotels.com

Treetop Hotel near Champasak, Laos

Brace yourself for the ultimate forest canopy adventure. To reach the Treetop Hotel, you need at least three days just for the journey in Champasak province, where you traverse coffee plantations and wild semi-evergreen forests before reaching the staggering canopy walkway, which passes over a roaring waterfall.

Only then do you harness up for a flight on the zip-line. Because, the private tree houses of Treetop Hotel can only be reached by a short zip-line ride. After a day of thrills and a scrumptious meal of local food at Treetop Hotel’s camp restaurant, you’ll find yourself lulled to sleep by an orchestra of crickets.

The #1 reason to stay at Treetop Hotel: the tree houses have been built with local materials at a lofty 10 metres above the ground.

Click here to book a Treetop Explorer adventure with a stay at the Treetop Hotel.

Heritage Perth, an independent, not-for-profit organisation set up to promote Perth’s heritage, has developed the project “Light Up Perth” to create an imaginative and sustainable façade lighting schemes for significant buildings within the City of Perth. Using energy efficient equipment, Light Up the City provides a spectacular lighting show that brings important buildings to life at night, helping to reaffirm the Perth’s title of ‘City of Light’.

In order to achieve a façade lighting scheme whose design can be changed at the tap of a computer keyboard, over 20,000 diodes have been installed on the famous structural ‘Ts’ of Council House. Using such equipment has made it possible to light a building using a fraction of the energy previously required for the same purpose. With the assistance of the State’s Sustainable Energy Development Office the scheme is intended to have the minimum possible environmental impact. The lighting specification developed gives up to 500% efficiencies over conventional façade lighting systems.

Council House is widely recognised throughout Australia as one of the finest examples of 1960s ‘minimalist modern’ office buildings in the country and was officially opened by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, on 25 March 1963.

At the end of 1992, Perth City Council announced its intention to move out of Council House to make way for asbestos contamination to be removed. This announcement ushered in five years of controversy and extensive public debate over the future of the building. In October 1993, the State Government released the Perth Central Precinct Area Policies Review, which featured a ‘Civic Precinct’ or ‘Central Perth Heritage Precinct’. This proposal called for the demolition of Council House and the establishment of public gardens on the site.

The media prominently covered the public debate that ensued. Those supporting the demolition focused primarily on the perceived ugliness of the place and its supposed intrusion on a ‘heritage’ precinct of 19th-century structures and gardens. Those in favour of retention spoke of the importance of the place as a fine demonstration of Post-War Modernist architecture. Eventually, in 1995, a newly elected Perth City Council reviewed the demolition order and a year later approved refurbishment of the building.

Thankfully the building was saved and with the recent façade lighting project it has cemented its place as one of the most recognizable buildings in the city, a highlight of any tour of Perth.

For volcano enthusiasts, and travelers interested in geology and natural history, Hawai’i is a unique destination offering one-of-a-kind encounters with Kīlauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and Mauna Loa, the world’s most massive volcano. At the recommendation of Annette Kaohelaulii of Hawai’i Ecotourism Association, I was fortunate to get to know one of the most reputable local ecotour providers, VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i – the Hawai’i branch of VolcanoDiscovery, an international company offering customized volcano tours around the world – and to experience the Big Island differently: with an incredible amount of education and an eye-opening insights into the culture and history of the island.

Phil is the manager of VolcanoDiscovery Hawai'i, leading a five-person team of local specialist guides currently operating from an office in his off-grid house.

Local, Personalized and Mind-Blowing

I’ve been lucky enough to travel to many destinations around the world, and one thing I’ve learned about myself through traveling is that the type of travel experiences I enjoy most is slow, local and personal. Whether I was backpacking in Europe or market-hopping in Asia, my favorite memories were always about the people from the local areas who shared with me slices of their lives.

Philip Ong, our private tour guide, offered exactly that. In addition to being an extraordinarily knowledgeable volcano specialist and passionate guide, he had the quality of a “local friend” that made the tour memorable beyond what’s included in the package. The eight-hour tour with Phil – focusing on natural and cultural interpretation and taking time to stop to contemplate and to exchange views about tourism in Hawai’i – for me made all of the rest of the days on the island more enjoyable and meaningful.

I’ll admit that, as valuable and educational as Phil’s interpretation was, I did not actually follow everything he said. A lot of scientific details about the volcanoes, which Phil was more than happy to share, repeat and elaborate on as needed, didn’t necessarily register with me (mostly because I was too amazed at the scenery or at Phil’s knowledge to try and digest a lot of information). “If you don’t remember these scientific terms, don’t worry, we’re not going to be testing you,” Phil joked, assuring me that learning in Hawai’i’s natural volcano laboratory is about finding connections with the land – in my own way, at my own pace.

Our tour was planned based on the best way to “tell the stories of past eruptions and build an understanding of how the volcano actually erupts” (from one of pre-trip email exchanges with Phil) and to allow for the opportunity to discuss ecotourism, as well as experiencing the island’s unique wonders.

What struck me most as (to use a volcanic metaphor) mind-blowing was the glimpse into the world view of native Hawaiian islanders before Western contact. The scientific methods used today to record volcanic activities were, obviously, not part of Hawaiian way of life until Western science was introduced to the islands. However, this does not mean that Hawaiians in pre-Western contact periods did not record volcanic activities; they just took a very different approach.

“Instead of measuring the movements of volcanoes, as we do today,” Phil explained, “the native Hawaiians understood and communicated the changes in volcanoes by telling stories about Pele, the mystical goddess of fire, and other volcano and island spirits.” Every incident of volcanic activity in the ancient times was recorded through tales of Pele and her expressions of passion and rage, and her dramatic (to say the least) love life. On the Hawai’i island you will see the legend very much alive, for instance the famous sibling rivalry between Pele and her sister Hi’iaka, the goddess of nature, whose desires are manifested in the eternal cycle of destruction (Pele’s rage) and rebirth (Hi’iaka restoring the forests on the land ravaged by lava and rocks).

While it’s impossible to ‘undo’ the perspectives acquired through education and experience, and I would never truly see the world through the eyes of First Hawaiians, just trying to imagine the creativity and wisdom of a world where story-telling and “making sense” of nature’s drama were one and the same thing was a mesmerizing experience.

One of the skills required for small operators like Phil is to navigate around large tour groups on cruise ship days. Most of these groups, though, tend to spend very little time at each site, simply stopping to take pictures. In comparison, Phil generously allocated time to offer in-depth interpretation and to share stories.

Opening People’s Eyes to Ecotourism

Listening to Phil, I could tell how passionate he is not only about volcanoes, natural history, geology, and Hawaiian culture, but also about the possibilities of opening people’s eyes (and perhaps changing their attitudes) to the importance of protecting this amazing island. “I understand that there’s a need for every type of tourism,” he noted, “and that we fill a specific niche.” On the tourism spectrum on the island, companies like VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i are on one end of the extreme: very small, very local and very customized. On the other end are the very large, very corporate and very generic mass tours.

Cruise ships, on the mass end of the spectrum, are inevitably a large part of life in Hawai’i, and have profound impact on local businesses. On “cruise ship days” in Hawai’i, parking lots in national parks fill up with tourist buses and sightseeing vans, and foot traffic is much higher at all of the iconic viewpoints and pathways. Our tour day, too, was one of those days and we saw the scene familiar to many: tour bus unloads, people take pictures in front of whatever the iconic sight they’ve come to see, and hurry back to the bus to carry on with their pre-scheduled itinerary.

Phil shared his experience – as one of the ‘little guys’ among the numerous Big Island tour providers. “At first I had a negative view of those passengers who settle for a superficial experience of the island, but I’ve come to realize that these are exactly the people that we need to be working with, if we want to promote ecotourism and effect change.” Unlike someone (like me) who is already ‘sold’ on the idea of a personal, educational and low-impact interpretive tour experience, people who usually choose mass tour experiences will likely have that aha! moment and may be inspired to be a little bit more conscious about their impact – the next time they travel, or at home.

“However small the change may be,” said Phil, “that’s what we try to do, to inspire people to experience Hawai’i differently and to become more conscious about their connection to the Earth and lifestyle in general.”

Pele, fortunately, was breathing very gently and remained calm during our visit. You can feel her ‘breath’ in the air, in the form of warm volcanic steam.

Sustainability of Running a Tourism Business Sustainably

VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i is one of the 14 companies in Hawai’i that have received the Hawai’i Ecotourism Association’s first-ever green certification program (and among them, one of the three to have achieved the highest GOLD level), recognized for their responsible use of natural and cultural resources, support for conservation and sustainability practices, and efforts to raise awareness among visitors.

Will the certification help Phil’s business? Will it help boost ecotourism in Hawai’i – which in turn would also help small operators like VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i?

Phil is under no illusion that mass tourism would completely change its nature, nor that the politics in the state’s tourism industry (which tends to favor those with money) would revolutionize to support the ‘little guys’ any time soon. But he is also practically optimistic. By winning support of repeat customers and taking advantage of word-of-mouth referrals, his business is growing (traveler review sites such as TripAdvisor has been a great asset to the business), which shows that there is an increasing demand for local and sustainable tour experience, and that his approach focusing on story-telling and personal connections is winning the hearts of those who experience it.

His challenge now is to convert those travelers into contributors (whether they are volunteering their time, or donating money) supporting conservation. VolcanoDiscovery Hawai’i guides work on native rainforest restoration projects during the off-season, and in order for professionally-trained personal interpretative guides’ jobs to be sustainable year-round, there needs to be a way to fund their off-season work, which in turn will ensure that travelers can continue to experience Hawai’i’s living landscapes without destroying them.

The kind of personal encounter with Pele that I had, I feel, would be the only convincing that’s needed to convert any traveler into a passionate supporter.

On a soft-sand beach, I’m wrapped in my unhung hammock as if it’s a blanket, since the U.S, National Park Service doesn’t allow them in trees. The ocean current swooshes onto the shore and the clear night sky reveals four planets in alignment.

A seaplane lands on Dry Tortugas Island in Key West, Florida, where some wonders are reserved for those who stay to camp and kayak. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

Earlier today, we arrived at Garden Key, the main island in the Dry Tortugas, an American national park just 70 miles from Key West, Florida (about two hours on the main ferry). I watched as hordes of day-trip passengers poured out of the Yankee Freedom II ferry and into Fort Jefferson like ants with no direction. Opposite the fortress, a seaplane landed in the heavenly blue abyss.

Staking a Camp Site on Dry Tortugas

While the other campers were loading belongings into wooden push carts, AJ, my kayak go-to and new-found friend, went sprinting across the island without a word, leaving me staring at the impressive three-story fort, the largest masonry structure in the United States.

As I loaded our gear, which consisted of a cooler, life jackets, waterproof bags and ready-to-eat items, AJ reappeared with a huge grin on his face.

Fort Jefferson in Florida's Key West looms large as one of the finest works of masonry in the United States. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

“We got the best camping spot! Tons of shade!” He used to work on the Fast Cat, a second Dry Tortugas ferry that ceased operations, and had been to the island at least 100 times, but only for the hour allotted to crew. He had always wanted to camp and I started to understand how much this meant to him. This time, instead of saying “thank you” when everyone else left the ferry, he’d finally have a chance to stay.

After settling into the campsite, AJ wandered off to make friends with the remaining campers and I waved goodbye to the ferry as the hundred or so day-trippers headed back to the mainland. The few of us left (and the park rangers) suddenly owned the island. I heard the little girl in the camp next to us asking her father questions.

“Daddy, where are we now?”

“You’re still in Florida, honey,” he replied. I understood her confusion. It didn’t feel like Florida.

As dusk falls on this island in Florida's Key West, anticipation builds fora high-stakes kayak exploration the next day. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

Nightfall and Sleeplessness

It’s getting chilly on the island and I could kick myself for not bringing a blanket. I can’t sleep. All I can think about is our kayak trip tomorrow. A month earlier, I hadn’t heard of the Dry Tortugas and its shroud of mystery. Reading up on the park, I soon learned of this empty ghost town where an unfinished Civil War–era fort still stands, having never seen a single battle. The surrounding islands offered explorers nothing but sand, scorching sun and a graveyard of sunken ships that wreckers have tried to salvage, but to me they were a warm and inviting playground, especially the tiny nearby island of Loggerhead Key, which is home to a turtle nesting area (about 250 nests per summer) and a massive protected reef called Little Africa (it’s shaped like the continent), I’d made up my mind then to make the crossing.

“The only way you can reach Loggerhead is by private boat. Or you can kayak,” the staff of the Yankee Freedom II informed me. So I put a Craigslist posting up asking for a kayak rental and received several responses, all saying “it’s treacherous” and “people have died.” Then I talked to AJ.

It was nearly impossible to believe that we had this place - Loggerhead Beach in Florida's Dry Tortugas - all to ourselves. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

“Well, I don’t want to scare you but the idea you are proposing can be dangerous if you are inexperienced. I’ve wanted to do that trip for a while but I haven’t found anyone that’s interested,” AJ said on the phone. He had spent a lot of time kayaking in Alaska and was currently in the process of starting his own business, Kayak Kings of Key West.

“But is it possible?” I asked.

“It’s very possible,” he said. That was all I needed to hear.

Three weeks later, after dozens of calls and emails, here we are. How could AJ possibly be sleeping right now? I am way too excited. I start contemplating going into the fort. Even though it’s forbidden at night, I can’t resist the urge.I climb the winding staircase up the lighthouse tower – it smells of musk and old paint – to the third tier of the fort. As I walk along this ledge of history, I wonder what it was like to live here during a storm and to look out as lightning sparked up the night sky.

The grassy courtyard beneath me is eerie from the glow of the moonlight and the absolute silence. The park benches look lonely and suddenly I feel a chill run up my spine. My breathing becomes heavy and my hands begin to tingle. I remain calm and, after a minute, the sensation fades away.

WIth AJ leading the way, the 'impossible' dream can happen, like kayaking to a remote island in Florida's Dry Torugas. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

An Island Abandoned

The sounds of ocean waves and seaplane propellers pry my eyes open. The first thing I see is a graceful sunrise and miles of blue staring back at me. After breakfast, we check in with the ranger who informs us that we have to return by sundown. AJ is overly prepared with more safety equipment than the park service requires and has already done a trial run around Key West in 25-knot winds. We load the gear and set off on our quest.

Loggerhead’s 150-foot lighthouse looms in the distance like New York did the first time I arrived. Those massive buildings had called to me that it was going to be tough, but I could do it. The journey to Loggerhead is three miles across an open stretch of changing currents that have caused around 250 ships to sink. Luckily, conditions couldn’t be more perfect for our trip: just a slight wind and beautiful sunny skies, but in the back of my mind I can still remember the warnings I’ve received. AJ is incredibly patient and gives me tips and guidance. As we reach the halfway point and the lighthouse is directly in front of us, kayaking becomes more natural to me and my concerns begin to melt away.

The kayak slides through the sand bar and onto the beach, and I cannot believe what I see before me: the fort is barely visible and the coral reefs create endless and harmonious layers of blue that flow together like a marble swirl of cerulean and aquamarine. To the left is a small dock for the private boats. The entire rest of the island – except for the beach – is covered in a thick brush. The only way to reach the other side is along the narrow path that winds around the lighthouse and keeper’s quarters.

Once you reach Loggerhead in Florida's Dry Tortugas, a vibrant seascape of coral and teeming fish awaits. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

“Hello?” AJ calls. “Is anyone here?”

There is no answer. Do we have this island to ourselves?

“This is awesome!” AJ shouts and takes off toward Little Africa like a kid in a candy store. Neither of us can get the enormous grins off our faces. How, in this day and age, can someone frolic around an abandoned island, unobserved? I wonder what was going through the mind of Ponce de Leon when he found the Dry Tortugas, and I suddenly want a flag to stake our claim.

Exploring a Dream

We hang everything up on some driftwood, put our snorkel gear on and enter the water around Little Africa. It’s stunning: the purple reef fans are vibrant, the sunlight glitters on the coral beneath the surface, and there are fish everywhere. AJ points out an enormous hogfish and I try to get his attention when a barracuda sails past us. I spot several blue tang and many seem to pose for the camera. I’m in a trance-like state as dozens of tiny fish are dancing to an ocean beat that I can almost hear in my mind. There are several areas of the reef to explore and nearby – a mile off the west coast – is the Windjammer shipwreck, still intact.

We take a break for a bite and a walk around the beach. We soon discover that we are not alone. Two volunteers have just arrived to tend to the beach and lighthouse. They are an older couple and are the first to stay on the island in the last nine months.

“Should we try to make it out to the wreck?” AJ asks. I’m interested, but we worry about getting back in time. Instead, we opt to kayak around the island. As we pass the southwestern point, there is large sand wall blocking our view, and it adds to the suspense of what is on the other side. We turn the corner and just stop paddling.

“Wow,” is all I can say. From this angle, we can see the full scale of Little Africa and the entire length of the island. It seems artificial, and certainly doesn’t look like any other part of Florida.

Living the dream at Loggerhead Key of Dry Tortugas National Park. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

Our final stop before heading back is the eastern tip, a narrow stretch of sand a few feet wide that has been created by the varying currents. Each side of the strip is a different shade of blue, and it points to a sand bar that must be a mile long. We stare out at the open ocean, and I have such a feeling of accomplishment. I feel content with this paradise around me, and am completely “blissed out.” I hope the ferry never drops visitors off at this island. I appreciate it so much more knowing how far I had come to make this happen.

Letting It All Sink In

A large bull shark swims next to our kayak as if to say it’s time to go and we say our goodbyes to Loggerhead. The kayak trip back is so much easier than on the way there, even though my energy is fading with the sunset. When we arrive on Garden Key, there are more sailboats anchored off the shore and two women from one boat are in awe of our adventure.

“We have to take a photo of you. That is really incredible,” they insist. It starts to sink in that what we just did was really incredible. Not because it was some outrageous distance, but because we had made a dream happen. We had the freedom to do it, all we needed was the dream.

As I board the ferry to return to Key West, I wish I could be one of the campers waving goodbye again from the island. I want more time here.

Camping and kayaking are key ingredients of the recipe for bliss in the Key West of Florida. Photo courtesy of Amber Nolan

Dry Tortugas Tips:

• Reserve camping months in advance. Ferry reservations can be canceled up to 48 hours before your stay.

• The camping rate does not include a $3-per-person, per-night fee that must be paid in cash upon arrival. The gift shop does take credit cards, but there isn’t much in the way of supplies; it’s mostly just books.

• Don’t bother staying just one night. To truly enjoy the island and relax, you need at least two. I recommend taking your time and staying all three nights.

• Call the park service to find out what you can bring and do; the rules change frequently. Fires are not permitted, nor are any fire starters (only charcoal briquettes).

• If you are bringing a kayak, tell the Yankee Freedom II when booking. They charge an extra $20. If you don’t have a kayak, I highly suggest contacting AJ at Kayak Kings of Key West.

• Bring headlamps, bug spray, tons of water and put all of your food in sealed containers. A telescope or stargazing map would come in handy, as well as a waterproof camera. Some people bring Frisbees, fishing poles, bocce balls, playing cards, and disk golf to pass the time.

• There are no showers on the island, but the new compost outhouses are available for camper use.

• Contact the park service for more information about volunteering – they need you!

For more information on planning a trip to the Dry Tortugas, be sure to visit the National Park website.

Located off the coast of West Africa, Cape Verde is one of the continent’s best-kept island secrets. The archipelago of 10 islands has recently been attracting more and more island hoppers looking for a tropical destination that’s still relatively unknown and secluded. The islands’ blend of Brazilian and West African cultures boosts the excitement level of Cape Verde, and if you’re a watersports fanatic, this is the destination for you. From daytime surfing to nighttime dancing, Cape Verde’s perfect for the adventurous and curious spirit.

The island of Fogo (Portuguese for "fire") is made up almost entirely of an active volcano that last erupted in 1995. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Moises.on

 Here Are the Top 5 Activities in Cape Verde:

1. Local Cuisine: Cape Verde has a rich ethnic culture that blends Portuguese and Senegalese customs and traditions; that blending is happily reflected in the country’s amazing cuisine. Be sure to try canja (a rich chicken soup) and cachupa (a stew of hominy, beans, and either fish or meat), two local dishes you are bound to like. Aguardiente is the local sugarcane rum, and it’s gaining in popularity in the United States; be sure to try it while you’re in Cape Verde.

2. Sal’s Salt Mines: The salt mines of Sal were built inside dormant volcanoes. The caves are truly impressive, and we highly recommend seeing them.

3. Water Sports: Windsurfing, surfing, jet skiing, scuba diving, and waterskiing are all must-do activities in Cape Verde. Organize your itinerary with your hotel before setting out.

4. Island Hopping: The four top islands to visit are Sal, São Vicente, Praia, and Cidade Velha. All the islands offer wonderful natural viewing and plenty of comfortable places to stay.

5. São’s Submarine Tour:It’s rare that tourists can say that they’ve ridden in a real submarine. In that respect, tourists to Cape Verde are truly lucky. Make sure to book a submarine tour of this island to see remarkable oceanic flora and fauna from a 360-degree viewpoint.

Founded in 1615, the town of Praia de Santa Maria was long a favored commercial port for Portuguese trade ships. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Moises.on

When to go

The weather is beautiful all year round, the temperature usually about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Cape Verde’s geographical position, at the northern limit of the tropical rain belt, leaves the country with very little rainfall. Although it’s highly unlikely, if rainfall is to occur, it’s usually between August and September. There is no “perfect” time to visit Cape Verde because the weather is fantastic throughout the year.

The four “Turtle Islands” of Talang-Satang in Malaysia are responsible for 95 percent of all the turtle landings in Sarawak. Photo courtesy of Flickr/enklocek

The Irrawaddy Dolphins of Sarawak

Sarawak, the largest state in Malaysia, is well regarded as a hot spot for Irrawaddy dolphins (known to locals as pesut). The Irrawaddy dolphins’ unusual features are its blunt, rounded head with a flexible neck, an indistinct and almost non-existent beak, a small triangular dorsal fin with a blunt tip and its long broad flippers. Irrawaddy dolphins usually swim in groups of two to six, but in Santubong and Buntal, larger groups of more than 30 have been sighted.

Since the Irrawaddy dolphin is a protected species in Sarawak, the local government has created dolphin-watching programs to control tourism and limit the number of visitors. Unfortunately, Irrawaddy dolphins are still facing great risk of extinction due to human encroachment. The biggest threat of all is entanglement in fishing nets. Dolphin-watching season runs from April to November, but due to unpredictable weather, sightings are not frequent. It is therefore best to combine a dolphin watching tour with a mangrove cruise that offers the opportunity to see a wide range of rare wildlife such as Borneo’s famed proboscis monkey.

The Marine Turtles of Talang-Satang National Park

Sarawak’s first marine national park, Talang-Satang, comprises four islands on the southeast coast of Sarawak. These four “Turtle Islands” are responsible for 95 percent of all the turtle landings in Sarawak. Talang-Satang National Park covers approximately 48,000 acres, including beautiful shallow reef areas surrounding the four islands. The park also includes a wildlife sanctuary, important nesting sites and fish-breeding areas, as well as rare species of hard and soft corals. Most importantly, though, it provides shelter and resting ground for sea turtles.

Marine turtles are amongst the world’s longest-living creatures with many reaching more than 100 years of age. Marine turtles will only start breeding at between 30 and 50 years of age and the females usually produce eggs only once every four or five years. They also do not lay eggs on just any beach. They will migrate back to their beach of birth, which sometimes can be more than 3,000 kilometres away. Their ability to find their way back to that particular beach, deftly navigating across an ocean world of deadly predators, is considered to be one of the greatest exploits in the animal kingdom.

The peak nesting season for turtles is from April to September. Due to the decline in turtle populations and deliberate poaching of turtles’ eggs, meat and shells, Sarawak Forestry has created a conservation program involving the local communities. As part of the project, turtle eggs are removed from the nests and placed in guarded hatcheries from which young hatchlings are released at night to reduce losses from predators. In addition, some are tagged with radio tracking devices to learn more about their ecology and life cycle. Pulau Satang Besar, the largest of the four Turtle Islands, is open to visitors, but conservation takes top priority over tourism. In fact, parts of the island and surrounding sea are off-limit to visitors.

Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary

Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary is situated in Pahang, 160 kilometres from Kuala Lumpur City. To get there, take the Karak Highway toward Lancang. Before reaching the elephant sanctuary, you pass through the Che’ Wong Orang Asli (aborigines) settlement, the last tribe of its kind in Malaysia.

Gandah Elephant Sanctuary was set up in 1989 and is managed by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks Malaysia. Its main objective is to continue locating, subduing and then relocating wild elephants to a bigger and safer jungle reserve when their natural habitat is being encroached upon by human development. It is estimated that only 1,200 wild Asian elephants are left in Malaysia, and Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary is the only conservation centre that provides safe sanctuary for these elephants rescued from all over the Malaysian Peninsula.

Kuala Gandah Elephant Sanctuary also looks after orphaned elephants to ensure their continued survival. At present the sanctuary houses a number of elephants brought in from Thailand , India and Myanmar. These elephants are trained and used in the process of translocating wild elephants found in problem areas throughout Malaysia. The sanctuary strives to promote public awareness of the elephants’ plight in Malaysia and to educate the public on the importance of habitat and environmental preservation. Visitors are welcomed to join the elephant activities throughout the year and take part in one-of-a-kind adventures.

Thinking of ecotravel in Malaysia? Plan your trip with Oshin and the local experts at MegaBorneo Tour Planners, a whl.travel local connection in Borneo (Brunei & Sarawak) and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

In this week’s Video Spotlight feature, Joerg Daiber makes use of ’tilt shift’ photography to bring a completely unique perspective to what would otherwise be familiar scenes filmed in some of Thailand‘s most popular destinations.

The careful manipulation of scale, blur and time creates an effect that tricks the eye. Scenes take on a miniature quality – buildings look like models and pedestrians become stick figures.

The title – Toy Thailand – is apt, not just because of the feeling of reduced size, but also as a result of the way things move. The sped-up movements resemble clockwork unwinding – a slightly jerky feeling that adds to the overall dream-like effect.

It’s not an exaggeration to say that short films like this that add clever twists show us a new way of looking at the world. It’s fun and entertaining, but it also helps to keep things in perspective – no pun intended.

As conservation tourism becomes more and more popular, how can travelers be certain of exactly where and how their money is being spent? One wildlife conservation group is leading by example by clearly outlining exactly how travelers’ dollars contribute to the sustainability of conservation projects and surrounding communities.

The Los Roques Scientific Foundation of Venezuela never ceases to educate visitors by allowing them to observing one of the on-site hatcheries. These baby turtles are growing strong so they will have a better chance of survival once they are placed back in their natural environment.

Conservation tourism – considered to be a “sub-niche” of sorts of geotourism, in line with voluntourism and “local travel” – is booming.

Travelers continue to seek meaningful opportunities to immerse in and support the natural environments and communities they visit, while destinations proliferate the means to capitalize as a way to boost their economies and increase ecological and even cultural awareness.

By supporting efforts to protect endangered species through fees and donations, conservation tourism aims to benefits local communities; increasing awareness and appreciation for our planet’s environmental and ecological concerns while delivering a much-needed sustainable source of revenue for conservation efforts.

These tours also provide a viable economic development alternative for local communities that have few other income-generating options.

However, it can be difficult for travelers to accurately determine just how much of their financial commitment directly benefits conservation projects and the local economies of their destinations, as opposed to benefiting the travel purveyors themselves – as is unfortunately sometimes the case.

No More Guesswork

However, one travel/tour group is looking to negate that stigma by placing a layer of absolute transparency between the travelers’ wallets and the communities they help to flourish – a worthy model for the conservation tourism as well as the entire geo/eco-tourism spectrum to follow.

Turtles are curious creatures that have walked (and swum) this earth since the time of the dinosaurs. Little is known about this migratory animal that often will swim thousands of miles across oceans to return to the very beaches where they were born to lay their eggs. This green turtle was photographed in Seychelles, an image courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

SEE Turtles, a well-known wildlife conservation tourism project, has eliminated the “guessing game” by establishing a unique and completely transparent pricing model that clearly lays out the economic impact of conservation tourism dollars on environmental sustainability and responsible community development.

The new pricing allows conscientious travelers to engage in meaningful wildlife conservation initiatives alongside local sea turtle researchers, while fully aware of exactly where their money is going and how it directly benefits the cause.

The company puts it all out there: demonstrating exactly how their tour guests’ financial contributions contribute to the sustainability of turtle conservation projects and the surrounding communities.

Right on their website for the world to see, SEE Turtles outlines each tour’s estimated per person amount – in dollars and percentages – that gets allocated to two key areas: Conservation and Turtle Communities.

Conservation includes fees and donations given to local conservation organizations to protect turtle habitat, hire local residents, and support scientific research and to SEE Turtles to promote our educational programs. For volunteer trips, this also includes the value of donated time.

Communities represents the direct and indirect spending by tour guests to support locally-owned businesses near sea turtle hotspots including hotels, restaurants, shops, and entertainment venues. Such income helps communities recognize the value of sea turtles as an important resource to protect and inspires local support for conservation.

Turtles are natural seafaring creatures that can measure up to 51 inches (130 centimetres) in length and weigh 660 pounds (300 kilograms). They are the earth's oldest living reptiles. Known for their shy defensive mechanisms, turtles actually have some of the best night vision in the animal kingdom. This loggerhead turtle was is off the coast of Turkey near Kas. Photo courtesy of Flickr/whltravel

According to SEE Turtles, at least 30% of each SEE Turtles trip goes towards support of conservation and communities. The average across all trips is 48%, with 16% directly supporting conservation and 32% spent in local communities.

The $150 per person average supporting conservation efforts is the equivalent of hiring a researcher to patrol a nesting beach in Costa Rica for two weeks.

“Travelers are becoming increasingly aware of their responsibility to help protect nature and local cultures,” said Jim Dion, Associate Director, Center for Sustainable Destinations at National Geographic. “SEE Turtles’ Conservation Pricing Model sets a new standard for transparency that will help travelers to evaluate tourism options and feel confident their travel dollars are benefiting local communities and conservation efforts.”

As more and more conservation-geared companies move toward this or a similar model of pricing transparency, it will be interesting to see how traveler numbers fare.

As recent reports have suggested, money is of course still a factor in travel decisions – especially in such trying economic times. Even responsible travelers can be skeptical, and often with good reason.

Still, if you’re new to eco-travel, ecolodges are a great place to start. Frame your trip around an ecolodge that stands out. Look for places that have gained international recognition and awards for the conservation and community work they are doing. Look for places that meet third-party green certification standards. Find your fantasy ecolodge, then make it the centrepiece of your trip.

Here are a few ideas for inspiration.

An eco-chic lodge at Ecohotel, one of the three 'ecohabs' near Santa Marta, Colombia. Photo courtesy of Ecohabs Santa Marta

Ecohabs Santa Marta in Colombia

Think outside the resort box and opt for one of the three ‘ecohabs’ at Ecohabs Santa Marta, a chic addition to one of Colombia’s most prized natural areas, Tayrona National Park, where lush green forests and stunning coast are just waiting for exploration near the popular beach town of Santa Marta.

If you go with Ecohabs Tayrona or Ecohotel, you get a beachfront spot without any high-rise interference. Or venture a little farther inland to Ecohabs Minca, and you’ll be immersed in thick vegetation against a mountain backdrop.

The #1 reasons to stay at Ecohabs Santa Marta: they’re designed to be visually integrated into their surroundings, built primarily with local materials and include ethnic aspects inspired by the huts of Tayrona’s indigenous tribes.

Click here to learn more about Ecohabs Santa Marta.

San Miguel del Bala in Bolivia

When people think Bolivia, they often imagine jagged snowcapped mountains, dizzying altitudes and a vast white plain of salt. But to the northeast of La Paz, Bolivia shares the low-lying Amazon basin with Brazil, Colombia and Peru. Here you can visit Rurrenabaque, Bolivia’s gateway to Madidi National Park in the Amazon jungle, where you’ll find some of the most lauded ecotourism projects in South America.

One great example is San Miguel del Bala, a lodge owned and operated by an indigenous Tacana community. With help from the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and a few large nongovernmental organisations, the group of 35 families built the lodge and provided themselves an alternative to traditional extractive trades like logging and hunting.

The #1 reason to stay at San Miguel del Bala: after taking in the incredible biodiversity of Madidi National Park, you can relax with a weaving class with women from the local community.

Click here to learn more about San Miguel del Bala.

The water catchment system on the Chumbe Island bungalows near Zanzibar, Tanzania, demonstrate the green technology that makes it a certified long-run destination. Photo courtesy of Chumbe Island Coral Park Lodge

Chumbe Island Coral Park in Zanzibar, Tanzania

Off the coast of Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania is the hypnotic Indian Ocean island of Zanzibar. Although officially part of Tanzania, the island is very much its own place, with a strong cultural identity and amazing natural assets.

A short boat ride from Zanzibar takes you to Chumbe Island, a coral sanctuary. Here you’ll find the Chumbe Island Coral Park lodge that is using the latest in eco-technology. For example, each eco bungalow has a water catchment system that allows it to capture its own freshwater supply during the rainy season. The water is then filtered and pumped for use.

The #1 reason to stay at Chumbe Island Coral Park: It meets the standards of Global Ecosphere Retreats, which certifies it as a long-run destination.

Click here to learn more about Chumbe Island Coral Park.

Sukau Rainforest Lodge in Borneo, Malaysia

Go wild in Malaysia with a visit to Borneo’s most prestigious ecolodge, the Sukau Rainforest Lodge. Getting there takes some doing – the last leg of the trip involves a short boat ride down the Kinabatangan River and into the depths of the Sukau Rainforest. It’s ideally located as a jungle trekking adventure home base.

Sukau Rainforest Lodge has been turning heads since 1997, when it won its first award: the British Airways Tourism for Tomorrow Award. Since then, it has gained distinction from major players like Trip Advisor, Ecoclub.com and most recently the World Travel Awards.

The #1 reason to stay at Sukau Rainforest Lodge: guests can join its reforestation campaign by taking a moment to plant their own rainforest tree.

Click here to learn more about Sukau Rainforest Lodge.

The walls of Adrère Amellal near Cairo, Egypt, blend seamlessly into the surrounding desert landscape. Photo courtesy of Adrère Amellal

Adrère Amellal in Cairo, Egypt

In the deserts surrounding Cairo, Egypt, a desert ecolodge called Adrère Amellal has the fantastical beauty of a nomad’s weary hallucination. The handcrafted buildings of stone and clay blend into the natural landscape surrounding them, as if they could disappear at any moment. This is an upscale retreat with top-notch culinary options.

The #1 reason to stay at Adrère Amellal: with no electricity, the rooms are softly lit with a dozen beeswax candles and the starry desert sky.

Click here to learn more about Adrère Amellal.

Visiting a rainforest is a unique nature experience. During the day, these unique biomes burst with a busy buzz and bright flashes of colour. At night, the air comes alive with the shrieks and calls of the forest’s many nocturnal creatures. Cicadas drone, bats flap beneath the canopy, a monkey howls in the distance.

Amidst all this natural beauty, it’s important to tread lightly. Remember that rainforests today cover just six percent of the earth, yet they are home to an estimated 40 to 75 percent of all the world’s plants and animals, including many still just being discovered. Sadly, despite efforts to protect them, many habitats are continue to be endangered by logging and overdevelopment.

The tropical rainforest habitat is home to between 40 to 75 percent of the world’s plants and animals. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Tatters

Well-planned ecotourism is one key to rainforests’ continued survival. It places value on preservation of nature as a commercial resource. Reputable tour outfits offer employment opportunities for locals as leaders and wildlife guides, enabling them to earn their money through sustainable and environmentally responsible forms of income. Travellers’ passion for traditional culture encourages locals to continue ancient forest-friendly practices.

Before your next escape to the rainforest, do some research in advance. The right tour operator and a great local guide can help you spot wildlife and make the most of any adventure.

Get Up Close to the Real Rainforest in Corcovado, Costa Rica

Away from the crowds of much-visited Monteverde, another sort of park awaits visitors in Costa Rica. National Geographic once labelled Corcovado National Park as “the most biologically intense place on earth,” and you’d be hard pressed to prove them wrong. Accessible via Puerto Jimenez along the Osa Penninsula, the  425-square-kilometre park is one of the last places to spot jaguars in Central America. It is also home to endangered species such as the Baird’s tapir, Harpy eagle, ocelots and more. Staying overnight in the park is strongly recommended, possible in a basic, budget and rustic eco-lodge or one of several ranger stations.

The Bolaven Plateau in the Champasak Province of southern Laos is known for its many scenic waterfalls. Photo courtesy of Miranda Siu

Climb High in the Champasak Province of Laos

Well known for its collection of ancient Khmer ruins, Champasak Province of southern Laos contains a wealth of natural thrills in the form of beautiful jungles and raging waterfalls. Wildlife enthusiasts can try to spot rare and endangered species like yellow-cheeked gibbons, Asian elephants and Irrawaddy dolphins, while other adventures await thrill seekers who head high above the treetops. Two- and three-day zip line treks allow travellers to unleash their inner Tarzan in the canopy of this semi-evergreen forest.

Become Better Acquainted with the Jungle in Borneo

The tropical island of Borneo is home to some of the world’s oldest rainforest. As a nature lover’s paradise, it is also one of the last natural habitats for endangered animals such as the Bornean orangutan, Clouded leopard and several native bat species. Guided trips can be booked from cities such as Kota Kinabalu or Sandakan on the Malaysian side, or Banjarmasin on the Indonesia side.  In addition to being thrilling, night-time jungle treks are probably the best way to spot nocturnal wildlife.

Encounter a City Lost in the Jungles of Colombia

The dense jungles that constitute Colombia’s Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Mountains are the historic domain of the early Tayrona civilisation. Among the ancient chiefdom’s best known archaeological sites is Ciudad Perdida (the “Lost City”), accessible via a six-day guided trek through a dense tropical forest. Hikers depart from Santa Marta, the city along Colombia’s Caribbean coast. The trek includes lots of opportunities to learn about the area’s indigenous people – descendants of the Tayrona – and plenty of time for spotting wildlife such as tapirs, deer and endemic hummingbirds.

Observe Life in the Amazing Amazon of Brazil

Capital of the Brazilian state of Amazonas, the city of Manaus is a popular point of departure for ecotourists visiting the Amazon region.  From this gateway city, visitors can easily arrange regional cruises that visit remote communities along the Amazon River or schedule boat transfers to jungle lodges and resorts with river-view bungalows. The Brazilian Amazon famously encompasses 33 percent of all the world’s surviving tropical rainforests and its biodiversity is unparalleled. One in five of the world’s fish species is found in its waters, while the jungle itself boasts 2.5 million recorded insect species and is home to a wide collection of endangered animals like spider monkeys, jaguars and poison dart frogs. Enjoy the best of the river and the surrounding rainforest.

The port city of Manaus, Brazil, is a gateway to the incredible Amazon region. Photo by Rodolpho Emanuel

Revel in the Natural Beauty of Rwanda’s Nyungwe Forest

Extending for over 1,000 kilometres, Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park is the largest protected area of high-altitude montane rainforest in Africa. Nestled in the heart of one of the continent’s most biodiverse regions – the Albertine Rift – Nyungwe boasts an exotic collection of rare orchids and endemic birds, as well as a large concentration of primates. Anyone looking to track chimps, however, will need to spend some time here. For the best chance at sighting mankind’s closest relative, consider booking a guided trip in the forests of Nyungwe.

To learn more about about jungle adventures on The Travel Word, read about travellers’ hiking and trekking experiences in some of the planet’s most exciting jungles.

He is a member of the Jabaleya tribe, one of the seven tribes of the South Sinai region. This unique tribe is a mixture of Arab and Eastern European blood, descendants of the soldiers of Emperor Justinian, who brought them in to guard the Monastery of St. Katherine. The Jabaleya continue to be passionate about the monastery, one of the oldest continually inhabited monasteries in the world and home to some of the oldest icons and most precious early manuscripts of Christianity, including the oldest bible in the world.

St. Katherine Protectorate is a delicate, high-altitude desert ecosystem that was established in 1988. Over 300 different species of  flora have been recorded in the area, including 20 found nowhere else in the world. Covering about 4,350 square kilometres of land in the southern Sinai Peninsula, the protectorate also supports mammal species, including the rock hyrax, Nubian ibex, Dorcas gazelle, red fox. It even hosts about 35 different reptile species, the majority which are endemic to the region.

Today, pilgrims come to climb Mt. Sinai (2285 metres) and see the place where, according to the Old Testament, the Prophet Moses received the Ten Commandments. Most travellers come to experience the sunrise, so partaking in an afternoon ascent allows trekkers to have the mountain nearly all to themselves.

A truly unique experience puts travellers in touch with the local people, including during an overnight just near the base of the mountain. Here, travellers set up camp with a Bedouin guide. The Bedouin are very honest and gentle people who are ‘at one with nature’ and expert gardeners. Visitors have the chance to walk through an area called Wadi Itlah, which is charmingly sprinkled with Bedouin- and monk-owned gardens from which are sourced the ingredients for lunch. The tour through the fields includes instruction about almonds, apricots and some authentic hybrid fruits crafted by the locals.

This Photo of the Week is offered as part of U.S. National Tourist Appreciation Day.

Colourful sea life abounds along the shores of Barbados. There are numerous ways to see it, including diving, snorkelling and underwater submarine tours. Photo courtesy of flickr/ben.ramirez

As much as Barbados exists on land, it has even more to offer in the water surrounding it. In addition to swimming, snorkelling and diving, there are numerous water tours in Barbados that introduce you to the local Caribbean sea life. A submarine tour brings you close to the colourful coral, exotic fish and colonial shipwrecks hiding just beneath the surface. And of course no Caribbean vacation is complete without a few hours to sunbathe on the deck of a boat, jumping in the water every now and then to cool down and swim with the turtles.

In order to keep the translucent waters around Barbados clear and the beaches clean, many local Barbados hotels and tour operators are committed to being environmentally friendly. Almond Beach Casuarina Hotel and Almond Beach Club and Spa, for example, are Green Globe Certified. An international organization that has helped set the standard for sustainable global tourism, Green Globe ensures that businesses meet high standards in a range of interrelated spheres, including sustainable management, social and economic stability, and cultural and environmental preservation.

The Morgan Lewis windmill stands proudly on the east coast of Barbados, overlooking the Scotland District. This former sugar plantation mill was built in the early 1700s and worked until approximately 1945. It was one of the longest-operating and best-preserved mills in the Caribbean. Photo courtesy of Barbados Tourism Authority

Many local Barbados residents – Bajans – trace their roots back to the West African slaves who were transplanted over to work on the sugar plantations. The sugar industry is still one of the primary economic forces underpinning the economy after centuries of colonial influence. Contemporary Bajan culture is rich, warm and friendly, the foundation of the strong infrastructure the island enjoys.

Native Caribbean islander Daniel Anderson of Barefoot Travel & Tours is thrilled to be offering local Bajan insight through www.barbados-hotels.travel, part of the whl.travel network.

The Sunbury Plantation House is a relic of Barbados’ colonial days. It was built around 1660 by one of the first English settlers on the island. His family’s descendants have lived for generations in the Caribbean. Photo courtesy of Barbados Tourism Authority

“I think joining whl.travel is a great opportunity for Barefoot Travel & Tours to stand out from other international tour operators since we are based in the country in which we operate,” commented Anderson. “Our knowledge of our island, culture and people cannot be matched. We know best and will always be on hand to direct and ensure that the visitor gets to enjoy every aspect of our island. They will get the opportunity to mix and mingle with the locals and take part in activities and events on the same level that a Bajan would.”

Anderson is also no stranger to the growing international push for local sustainability; he’s been adopting and cleaning Barbados beaches for years, as well as supporting local cultural events and raising funds for a Barbados Children’s Home.

The east coast of Barbados is well known for its rugged beauty. Here, Atlantic rollers break against large rocks and form beautiful mist and foam, and reefs form in small pools close to shore in the wake of the waves. This is also the location of the 'Soup Bowl,' a popular spot for surfing and the scene of an annual international competition. Photo courtesy of Barbados Tourism Authority

“I choose to join whl.travel because of the emphasis that is put into the care and development of the island and its people,” concluded Anderson. “Lots of other tour operators are not interested in the development or sustainability of the countries in which they operate. I also think whl.travel is a great medium through which Barbados can be noticed by travellers who are conscious about sustainable development.”

Barbados joins a growing list of Caribbean destinations, including Antigua and Barbuda, Nevis, St. Kitts and St. Lucia.

In the United States, $15,000 may buy you a used car, a family vacation of sorts, or maybe even a half-year’s tuition at a state university or a private school in a big city.

In Tanzania, that same $15,000 covers the entire annual budget for the Jifundishe Free Library in Ngongongare Village in the Arusha District of northern Tanzania. Jifundishe is one of only a handful of free, independent community libraries in the entire country and is now the model for a new community library initiative taking place across the country.

At Jifundishe, that $15,000 pays for the staff of eight; a large assortment of magazines and newspapers; maintenance fees; study materials, markers, paper and ink; adult literacy classes; children’s programs; an Independent Study program; Internet access; special offerings including movie nights, medical exams, mosquito net distribution, and more.

The Jifundishe Free Library in rural northern Tanzania offers a wide range of community programs that include adult literacy classes, children’s workshops, an Independent Study program and much more. Photo by Anne Wells

And to assess the community impact of this modest investment, all you need to do is look around.

At one of the six laptops in the small, window-lined computer lab at the front of the main building, Amani H. Amani, 24, tutors a 35-year-old woman who has come to learn about the Internet. Not long ago, Amani was the student. At 15, he left home after dropping from school due to family struggles and poverty. Amani went to work on a flower farm and held little hope on finishing his education. However, after hearing about the Jifundishe library and its free access to text books, he moved hundreds of miles to come learn. Amani lives in a small room in the village and supports himself through odd jobs, such as slashing grasses and tutoring students for cooking oil and rice. After more than four years of perseverance and hard work, studying day in and day out at the library and through Jifundishe’s Independent Study (IS) program, Amani was recently one of seven students to prepare for, and pass, the Tanzanian equivalent of the GED exam, which makes him eligible for university.

The local Jifundishe Knitting Club knits wares which are sold at library fundraisers across America. Photo by Anne Wells

During Jifundishe’s IS program’s first year in 2010, 27 students, ages 15 to 55, received access to necessary textbooks, regularly scheduled classes by volunteer teachers, kerosene for evening study at home, and funds to take the exam itself. One-hundred percent of those taking the Form 4 exam passed, as compared to only 50 percent from government schools. Seventy-five percent of Jifundishe’s IS students who sat for the Form 2 exam passed, as compared to only 30 percent from government schools.

At a long table between the stacks that hold the library’s 5,000-plus books, Isaac Nanyaro, the head teacher from the local Imbaseni Primary School, works up new lesson plans. Isaac meets many of his students here at Jifundishe and attributes his school’s 75 percent rise in test scores over the past few years directly to the library’s provision of access to text books and tutors. “We have no funds for books,” says Nanyaro, whose 20 teachers are responsible for nearly 1,000 students. “Even our teachers come to the library to further their own studies.”

Outside on the back porch, curled up in a shiny red wheelchair, sits Goodness, a severely disabled woman who spent the first 25 or so years of her life (no one knows exactly how old she is, including Goodness) tucked away in her family’s mud home. Since the first library opened in 2005, Goodness’s brothers have carried her back and forth one mile each way from her home. At the library, she visits with patrons and works closely with staff and volunteers. Over the years, Goodness has learned to read and write, and knit, too. With her gnarled, bowed hands, she makes some of the most beautiful puppets, hats, and scarves the Jifundishe Knitting Club has ever seen. Each club member is paid by the library for her wares, which are then sold at fundraisers across America. Within her first year of working with the club, Goodness earned enough to purchase her first proper wheelchair.

Further out back in the neatly manicured garden, at a lawn table tucked in the shade of some trees, Angelina Laisser, 56, works with Jifundishe’s women’s cooperative, Jiendeleze (“advance yourself”), to make Barefoot Beads, a unique jewelry product for the feet. Angelina and the other five women in the cooperative are paid by the library for each item they produce and then an equal amount is deposited into a collective fund, which the women manage themselves. Their first fund was used to pay for them all to travel to Arusha to have their eyes checked. For most of the women, it was their first and only time ever seeing a doctor of any kind. Their second fund was used to purchase seeds for planting in their small fields. The collective’s “Barefoot Beads” are sold mostly in Tanzanian coastal resorts.

Angelina combines her Jiendeleza income with the money she earns from her piggery, which she started after finding a book at the library about how to raise and care for pigs, to care for her three children and ailing mother.

Goodness, a local patron, has been coming to the library since 2005. Through her skillful knitting she earned enough to purchase a proper wheelchair and has also learned to read and write. Photo by Anne Wells

In the community room, a separate building to the left of the courtyard, Doricas Unvanjoka, 16, works with a Canadian volunteer to practice her English. Doricas, her mother, and five brothers and sisters were abandoned by her father years ago and left with no home, no money, and no land. Today, Doricas is one of Jifundishe’s 40 ‘Houston’ scholarship students. The program was started by Annie and Andre Houston after Annie visited Tanzania in 2007, and it covers the complete cost of a four-year education at a government school, which is about $1,000–$1,200. Each year, more than 50 students apply for three to five coveted spots. Doricas’s oldest sister, Debora, was one of the first Houston scholars. She graduated from secondary school and is now studying nursing in Moshi, supported financially by former Jifundishe volunteers from the United Kingdon.

The secret to Jifundishe’s success? “While we are always struggling to make ends meet, we are blessed with a dedicated staff, a phenomenal group of international volunteers, and an involved and committed Board,” says executive director Deb Kelly, 55, who made Tanzania her home after founding Jifundishe in 2003. “And our community cares deeply for this library and embraces it as their own, so ultimately, it is.”

Next:

• Part IV Beyond Books in Tanzania: The Maktaba Project & The New Tanzanian Community Library Association

Anne Wells is the founder and director of UNITE The World With Africa, a social organization working to provide impactful connections, resources and expertise to help advance women’s health, education and microfinance programs in Tanzania. She recently launched a new online store called The Ashe’ Collection, a 100% philanthropic initiative to grow an international demand for African artistry and raise funds to support UNITE’s work in East Africa. For more information, email Anne at atmwells(at)gmail(dot)com.

Kyabobo (pronounced CHAY-a-bobo) may not be easy to reach, via rough roads from either the north or the south, but travellers note it is well worth the effort. Get there and you will be rewarded: chances are that you won’t cross paths with another tourist the entire time.

In Ghana, Kyabobo National Park is set against the unmistakable twin peaks knowns locally as the Breast Mountains. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

Covering New Terrain

Kyabobo is Ghana’s newest national park, stretching over 360 square kilometres and contiguous with Fazao National Park, just across the border in Togo. Seen from a distance, Kyabobo’s Breast Mountains, so named for the distinctive shape of two adjacent hills, are at its front door. The rest of the park is surrounded by dry plains that rise into hilly terrain covered in semi-deciduous forest.

Nkwanta is the nearest town and the gateway to Kyabobo. About four kilometres from the park headquarters, it is on the main north-south road running from the Volta region to northern Ghana in the area between Lake Volta and Togo. Since Kyabobo is really the only tourist draw in the area and well off Ghana’s tourist circuits, not many travellers make it Nkwanta. There are a couple of good reasons why, the main being how long and dusty the road is. By public transport, it can take two days to reach Nkwanta from Tamale with at least one transfer. There is also direct transportation from Accra that takes around eight hours.

Given the challenges of getting to Kyabobo, it is well worth staying a few days. Fortunately there are some good options for accommodation in the area. The Gateway and Kilimanjaro are good hotels in Nkwanta. At the park headquarters there are two nicely equipped guesthouses, each with a kitchen and bathroom, and camping sites. There are a number of other camps within the park, including a platform on top of a mountain ridge overlooking the shrine of the village of Kue.

A bridged trailhead leads the way into Ghana's Kyabobo National Park and toward a waterfall. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

Nature and Culture in Kyabobo

Everyone who enjoys the outdoors will find something exciting at Kyabobo, especially the network of trails for hiking, waterfalls to visit, biking, camping, canoeing, wildlife viewing and inner tubing on the Kue River. Hiking is the best way to explore the park. While there are some great trails only a couple of hours long or day hikes to waterfalls, others span the entire park and can take several days to complete involving some solitary camping. To get a good feel for the park, try the four-hour round-trip trek to Laboum Falls. You can extend it with another hour or two of hiking to the upper falls.

During any activity, animals to be spotted in the park include elephants, leopards, buffalo, waterbuck and several primate species. Unfortunately, due to the density of the forest and the steep hilly terrain, not everyone will be lucky enough to spy much large wildlife, although there are smaller more visible species bushbuck and duikers. You can also count on seeing butterflies and birds. Recent park surveys indicate the presence of at least 500 species of butterflies and 235 birds.

The symbol for the park is the rock hyrax, which is a large and very common rodent in Ghana, sometimes called a grass cutter. Roadside merchants often sell them… in the form of kabobs. In the wild, they are often seen on rocky outcroppings within the park.

For culture buffs, surrounding the park are a number of small communities called the Hanging Villages. They are said to resemble villages in the Himalayas that hug the sides of the mountains. Some even have shrines and hikes around the villages that guests can experience after visiting and drinking local gin with the chief. They’re accessible on foot or by bicycle. Travellers can even enjoy settling into village life with an overnight homestay.

A staff guide from the Wildlife Division of Ghana in Kyabobo National Park demonstrates how a leaf can be used as a cup to drink water. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

An Ecotourism Future

The park represents a very interesting attempt to balance the goals of environmental protection, ecotourism and the preservation of endangered communities. It is an ongoing experiment with high stakes – the survival of the area’s natural and human environment.

Organisation at Kyabobo is still in its early stages, however, so be patient and persistent when seeking information. Right now, a new visitors’ area definitely serves as an essential part of the learning experience – you can at least count on finding brochures at the park entrance – and the proceeds help the surrounding communities.

Additionally, for the host communities, ecotourism means “improved livelihood activities” or jobs as guides, cooks and craftspeople. The income generated from the park is used for local development projects, like bringing electricity to nearby communities and providing materials for the construction of schools and toilets.

If you are looking for an active vacation to a naturally beautiful and undiscovered part of Ghana, and if you are interested in contributing to a vital and ongoing real-world learning experience, Kyabobo Park is well worth the dusty road trip it takes to get there and back.