True, Albania might not come to mind as a destination for amazing ruins and cultural heritage, especially in the shadow of an archaeological giant like Greece, its neighbour to the south. Yet ancient civilisations have left their fascinating marks throughout the Balkan peninsula, including Albania. In fact, all of Albania’s three UNESCO-listed World Heritage Sites exhibit grand-scale traits to rival any of their Balkan neighbours. And the tale of the Cyclops from Homer’s epic Odyssey is understood to have been set in Albania.

Like a thousand unblinking eyes, the famous windows of Berat, Albania, stare back at admirers. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Joonasl

Berat, City of a Thousand Windows

The historic centre of Berat, also known as “the city of a thousand windows,” made the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008. Walking next to the river and wandering through Berat’s narrow alleys, takes you back in time and reveals the rich history of a settlement dating from 2600-1800 BCE, making it one of the oldest towns in Albania. The interesting architecture shows Islamic influences from the Ottoman period, but also of Christian Orthodox traditions. On top of the hill is a beautiful medieval citadel with a lively village, beautiful churches and a mosque inside the fortress walls.

Are there really a thousand windows, as stipulated by the city’s epithet? An official count hasn’t surfaced yet, but looking out onto the layers of whitewashed buildings that make up the face of Berat, you do indeed get the impression of thousands of eyes (the rows and rows of windows) gazing back.

Gjirokastra in southern Albania is known as the "city of two thousand steps." Three locals have picked one of them for spending a quiet afternoon. Photo courtesy of flickr/formanella

Gjirokastra, City of Two Thousand Steps

Located in the beautiful Drinos River valley in Southern Albania you’ll find Gjirokastra, a city with a tumultuous past. It has served as a feudal stronghold, Ottoman jewel, Italian colony and territory occupied by the Greek army during the first Balkan war.

Gjirokastra is hometown to two of the most notorious Albanians: Communist dictator Enver Hoxha and writer Ismail Kadare. The city retains an impressive fortress, a bazaar, an 18th-century mosque and several churches. It was inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2005.

Gjirokastra’s unique architecture, developed in the 17th century by the Ottomans when building on steep hills, features distinctive stone roofs, wooden balconies, whitewashed stone walls and many stepped passageways. This is why Gjirokastra carries the nickname “city of two thousand steps.” Again, an official count has yet to be made, but wandering up and down the steep alleyways of Gjirokastra, you will have little doubt that the city has certainly earned its nickname.

Each year, thousands of tourists visit the ancient ruins of Butrint, Albania, reaffirming its need for both UNESCO and governmental protection. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Marc Morell

Butrint, Preserved for Visitors in the Thousands

Situated on a small peninsula surrounded by a picturesque lagoon in southern Albania, Butrint is arguably the most interesting archaeological site of the Adriatic Sea region. Inhabited since prehistoric times, this site has been home to Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians who built their monuments in glades in the forest. Butrint is both an archaeological site and also a beautiful natural habitat with diverse plant and bird life.

Butrint was designated as a World Heritage Site in 1992. Five years later, during the period of civil unrest in Albania in 1997, Butrint was removed to the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger. As a result, huge investments were made to protect the archaeological site and to extend the protected area to include the surrounding landscapes. That led to declaring the 29 square kilometres around it a national park in 2000 and the park has since been extended to 86 square kilometres. The site was removed from the ‘in danger’ list and its status now helps curb encroaching construction. Butrint attracted around 20,000 visitors in 1996 and the number grows each year, confirming its importance to Albanian heritage and tourism. Its doubly-protected status as UNESCO site and a national park helps ensure that tourism pressure is regulated and tourism dollars keep the site preserved.

Are you planning a trip to Albania? Check out the villages of the northern mountains, the coasts of the Adriatic and Ionian seas, and the rich cultural heritage with Outdoor Albania, the whl.travel local connection headquartered in Tirana, Albania.

Tucked away in a quiet northwest corner of Bosnia-Herzegovina lies one of the last untouched natural ecosystems in Europe. While that sounds like something many tour companies say these days about their own homes, you would be hard pressed to find more unspoiled countryside than that around Banja Luka, where lack of easy access and limited infrastructure once halted the usual tourist swell to this region. Nowadays, though, under the careful guidance of Zepter Passport, the new whl.travel local connection in this part of the world, Banja Luka is now opening up a little.

The rivers surrounding Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina, support some of the liveliest fish populations in the world, which is ideal for fishing enthusiasts. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Fortunately deeply dedicated to preserving the natural beauty of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Zepter Passport has taken careful steps to make sure that human impact is minimal in Banja Luka. In some ways, this has been helped by the company’s relative youth, which means that it doesn’t have many bad habits to work against. It can really help steer Banja Luka on a greener path toward the future.

Travellers to Banja Luka therefore suffer only an embarrassment of riches, deciding between the incredible variety of exciting things to see and do. While Banja Luka city has its share of clubs and bars, old fortresses, presidential palaces, funky cafes, oh-so-hip student eateries and stunning locals (it’s reputed to be home of some of the world’s most beautiful women), visiting the outlying region is perfect for what some might call ‘quiet adventure.’

Banja Luka River Systems

The area surrounding Banja Luka includes lush forests in which there is a smattering of tiny villages and more wildlife than people. Feeding all this verdure, though, is a complex river system that is teeming with fish and other aquatic creatures, and arguably the main draw of this tiny pocket of the world.

+ The Pliva River, known for its spectacular multicoloured waters and large grayling fish, attracts fly-fishers from all over the globe.

+ The Una River was given its name, meaning the ‘only one,’ by Roman explorers. This intricate system of waterfalls, rapids and calm waters shelters unique species of fish and plants.

+ The Unac River brims with rainbow and brown trout. This mountain river is famous for its twilight activity, when the majority of its fish and flowers spring to life.

+ The Ribnik is the wildest river in the Banja Luka region and home to the largest grayling in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Snag one of these cunning fish and claim the ultimate trophy.

+ The Sanica is a tiny tributary of the larger Sana River, but it makes up for its size with the sheer weight of its fish population: 70 percent of the region’s grayling population can be found here, while the rest is brown trout.

+ The Krusnica River’s waters are diamond clear, sourced from a nearby mountain spring that is absolutely pure (don’t be timid about drinking from these waters). Near Banja Luka, the spring reaches a depth of nearly 120 meters, allowing for a wider variance of wildlife and larger fish.

+ The Neretva River has one of the richest instances of soil erosion in the Balkans due to seven nearby mountain peaks and a vast tangle of tributaries. It is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful fly-fishing spots in the world and is said to have the most copious flow of any waterway draining into the Adriatic Sea. A wide variety of fish flourish in the Neretva, from brown and marble trout to grayling, softmouth and lat.

The Old Town of Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina, is packed with shops, quiet eateries, funky cafes and what some say are the most beautiful women in the world. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Active Adventures

With such a rich complex of rivers, Banja Luka draws back angling enthusiasts year after year, especially fly-fishers. Fly-fishing entails multiple casts of an artificial insect or ‘fly’ using a nearly weightless fishing line. It’s a practice that requires significant deliberation and skill and has consequently often been dubbed ‘the contemplative man’s recreation.’

Fly-fishing tours led by Zepter Passport are strictly catch-and-release only. Barbless hooks are mandatory, making their removal easy after a trophy photo is taken so that the fish can be released back, unharmed, into the water.

For non-anglers and anyone else taking a break from the rivers, the surrounding landscape offers a great mix of activities. Traverse the Kozara mountain system and look out over the entire western half of Bosnia; raft down the Vrbas River, one of Europe’s best and the site of the World Rafting Championship in 2009; or, for a piece of Banja Luka’s cultural history, explore the country’s rich ethnic and religious history by foot and visit the numerous monasteries dotting the countryside.

Banja Luka’s weather draws visitors year round to the city and the region’s main draw – the vast, wild countryside of Bosnia-Herzegovina. In support of this, a wide variety of Banja Luka hotels is available, both in and outside the city, from budget to luxurious.

Though the term ‘getting away from it all’ has been overused, Banja Luka, while hardly remote, is admirable in its ability to live up to its promises. For example, any map of Banja Luka reveals a sense of a city so isolated yet so close to Europe’s hotspots that it is serviced by most European airports. Fortunately, the few local travel companies operating in Banja Luke have made sincere efforts to protect the natural beauty.

www.banja-luka-hotels.com is the latest Bosnia-Herzegovina destination to join the whl.travel network, following Medjugorje and Sarajevo.

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IN THE LOCAL LANGUAGE / NA LOKALNOM JEZIKU:

Smjesten u mirnom sjeverozapadnom dijelu Bosne i Hercegovine lezi jedan od poslednjih netaknutih prirodnih ekosistema u Evropi. Iako to zvuci kao nesto sto mnoge kompanije koje se bave turizmom govore o svojim sredinama, tesko cete naci vise netaknutih predjela od ovih oko Banjaluke, gdje je nedostatak lakog pristupa i ogranicena infrastruktura u proslosti kocila masovni turizam u ovoj oblasti. U sadasnje vrijeme, ipak, pod pazljivim vodstvom Zepter Passport-a, novog whl.travel lokalnog partnera u ovom dijelu svijeta, Banja Luka se polako otvara.

Fly-fishing is a unique type of sport, using an artificial fly to counter a weightless line. All fishing with Zepter Passport is catch-and-release using barbless hooks. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Srecom veoma posvecen ocuvanju prirodnih ljepota Bosne i Hercegovine, Zepter Passport je preduzeo pazljive korake da osigura da ljudski uticaj bude minimalan na prirodu. Na neki nacin, to je potpomognuto i relativnom mladoscu kompanije, sto znaci da nema mnogo losih navika protiv kojih bi se borila. To zaista moze pomoci uputiti podrucje Banjaluke ekoloski prihvatljivijim putem u buducnost.

Putnici u Banjaluku stoga pate jedino od velikog izbora, jer moraju da odluce izmedju velikog i raznolikog spektra stvari koje mogu da vide i urade. Dok grad Banja Luka ima veliki broj nocnih klubova i barova, staru tvrdjavu, predsjednicku palatu, otkacene kafice i mjesta za provod, kao i nevjerovatne ljude ( Banja Luka vazi za jedan od gradova u svijetu sa najljepsim zenama ), posjeta okolnom regionu je savrsena za ono sto bi neki mogli nazvati “tiha avantura”.

Rijecni sistemi u okolini Banjaluke

Podrucje oko Banjaluke ukljucuje bujne sume u kojima ima mnogo malih sela i mnogo vise zivotinja nego ljudi. Ono sto daje zivot ovom podrucju je veliki rijecni sistem koji je prepun ribe i drugih vodenih stvorenja, koji je vjerovatno najveca vrijednost ovog dijela svijeta.

+ Rijeka Pliva, poznata po svojoj kvalitetnoj vodi i velikim lipljenima, privlaci ribolovce iz cijelog svijeta.

+ Rijeka Una je dobila ime od rimljana koje znaci “jedna jedina”. Vodopadi, brzaci i mirna voda se ispreplicu njenim tokom, koji cuva jedinstvene vrste riba i biljaka.

+ Rijeka Unac prepuna je kalifornijske i potocne pastrmke. Ova planinska rijeka je cuvena po aktivnosti ribe u sumrak, kada rijeka prosto procvjeta od brojnosti ribe.

+ Ribnik je jedna od najljepsih rijeka u okolini Banjaluke i dom za neke od najvecih lipljena u Bosni i Hercegovini. Uhvatite neke od ovih opreznih riba i uslikajte znacajan trofej.

+ Rijeka Sanica je mala pritoka vece rijeke Sane, ali nadoknadjuje svoju velicinu bogatstvom ribe, u kojoj sa oko 70% preovladjuje lipljen.

+ Voda rijeke Krusnice je kristalno cista, izviruci iz planinskog izvora ( nemojte se plasiti piti iz ovog izvora ). Njen izvor premasuje dubinu od 120 metara, dozvoljavajuci tako veliku raznolikost vodenog svijeta.

+ Rijeka Neretva dobija jako mnogo vode i minerala sa 7 okolnih planina i velike mreze pritoka. Mnogi je smatraju jednim od najljepsih mjesta za musicarski ribolov na svijetu. Mnoge riblje vrste zive u Neretvi, od potocne do mekousne pastrmke, preko lipljena i drugih.

The countryside of Bosnia-Herzegovina is straight out of a Grimm's fairy tale: packed with dense forests and misty rivers all far enough from civilisation for nature to exist in its wildest forms. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Aktivne avanture

Sa tako brojnim rijekama, Banjalucka regija privlaci brojne ribolovce, posebno musicare. Musicarenje je ribolov vjestackom musicom ili insektom, koristenjem nekoliko tehnika kojima se lagana ribolovna snjura koristi da prezentuje imitaciju. To zahtijeva veliku vjestinu, koncentraciju i preciznost, pa se cesto smatra da je to i “umna rekreacija”.

Musicarske ture organizovane od Zepter Passport-a su strogo u rezimu “uhvati i pusti”. Kukice bez povratne kuke su obavezne, jer se ribe lako skidaju s njih po ulovu i slikanju, i riba se odmah vraca nepovrijedjena u vodu.

Za one koji ne pecaju i sve koji zele da naprave pauzu od rijeka, okolni pejsazi nude veliku mogucnost raznih aktivnosti. Obidjite planinu Kozaru i s njenih vrhova pogledajte skoro cijelu sjeverozapadnu Bosnu; probajte rafting Vrbasom, jednom od najboljih Evropskih rijeka za rafting i mjestom Svjetskog prvenstva u raftingu 2009. godine; ili, za dozivljaj istorijskog naslijedja Banjaluke, istrazite bogatu etnicku i religijsku istoriju pjeske i posjetite brojne manastire koji su svuda po okolini.

Zbog blage klime, Banjaluka privlaci posjetioce cijele godine u grad i okolinu, zahvaljujuci i velikoj i skoro netaknutoj prirodi Bosne i Hercegovine. Da bi to podrzali, razliciti hoteli u Banjaluci su u ponudi, u gradu ali i izvan njega, od jeftinih to luksuznih.

Iako uzrecica “pobjeci od svega” je i previse koristena, Banja Luka, iako je dosta jednostavno doci do nje, moze da ispuni sva obecanja. Na primjer, bilo koja karta Banjaluke otkriva grad koji je izolovan a opet tako blizu evropskim glavnim i popularnim destinacijama, dostupan sa nekoliko evropskih aerodroma. Srecom, nekoliko lokalnih turistickih kompanija iz Banjaluke su ucinili znacajne napore da zastite prirodne ljepote.

www.banja-luka-hotels.com je poslednja destinacija u Bosni i Hercegovini koja se prikljucila mrezi whl.travel, poslije Medjugorja i Sarajeva.

Guests of the Wealth of Diversity project in Serbia can enjoy the warm hospitality and traditional cooking in Velebit, a village in the northern Backa plain with a Serb population that emigrated from Croatia. It is surrounded by villages with Hungarian populations. Photo courtesy of Katarina Paunovic

Origins of Diversity on the Pannonian Plain

In the Danube region of Serbia, the land’s original inhabitants are, generally speaking, newcomers. Until just 300 years ago, the region was a sparsely populated swampland. The Pannonian Plain, which bordered the left bank of the Danube River, was 80 percent covered by water and unsuitable for human habitation.

Then, during the time of the expanding Ottoman Empire, the ruling Austro-Hungarians chose to reinforce their defenses against the encroaching Turks by launching the most ambitious project of its time in Europe. They built a system of channels through the Pannonian Plain and settled it with people from all over Europe.

Belo Blato is a village in Banat, Serbia, with around 1400 inhabitants of Slovak, Hungarian, Bulgarian, Serb origin, as well as 16 other ethnicities. The villagers talk each other in four languages. Photo courtesy of Katarina Paunovic

In addition to the Hungarians, Serbs, Romanians and, to a lesser extent, other peoples who had already lived here for several centuries, the newly inhabitable land was colonised by Danube Swabians, Slovaks, Czechs, Ruthenians, Ukrainians, Spaniards, Italians, French, Macedonians, Montenegrins, Slovenes, and Serbs and Croats from Slavonia, Dalmatia, Bosnia and other parts of the Balkans. Bulgarian Catholics, Roma and numerous other smaller ethnic communities have also found refuge here since then.

A Tourism Treasure

Today these groups – more than 25 different ethnic communities with six languages in official use (a number exceeded only by the European Parliament) and numerous religious communities – constitute the indigenous population of the Autonomous Province of Vojvodina, which enjoys a high degree of independence in Serbia.

Ruski Krstur is a village in Serbia where Rusyns live. Rusyns are an ethnic community that usually inhabits areas of Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Hungary and Slovakia. They came to Vojvodina in the 18th century. Today tourists can enjoy a traditional horse-drawn carriage ride through the village. Photo courtesy of Perica Lukovic

Nowhere in Europe are there so many different peoples living in such a small region. Although the cultural wealth is made possible by their peaceful coexistence – an intertwining, mutual respect and acceptance – the different communities cultivate their unique traits in an effort to preserve their national identities. It is this wealth of diversity that has been identified as the region’s greatest asset in promoting tourism.

The Wealth of Diversity project was therefore launched at the initiative of the Magelan Travel Agency DMC and is being implemented by the Istar 21 Danube Tourism Cluster in cooperation with the government of the Province of Vojvodina. The goal of the project is to spotlight multiculturalism in the Danube region as a unified tourism product on the world market and lend this part of Serbia a recognisable brand.

Dancers perform in Deronje, a village populated with Serbs and Gypsies who have gained worldwide fame as tamburica players. This village hosts the largest festival and competition of tamburica orchestras. Photo courtesy of Katarina Paunovic

A Promising Project for Local Villagers

The Wealth of Diversity project identifies villages that best represent the ethnic mix in Vojvodina and the Danube region. Through the creation of tourism-driven market opportunities, the project will create conditions for the employment of women, young people and people on the margins of society.

Guests can enjoy traditional houses, crafts and local food, as well as rich folk-dance and musical programs, horse-and-coach rides, bike and boat tours and participation in the preparation of traditional produce. Villagers are encouraged to create authentic souvenirs and local food specialties.

In the village of Stara Moravica, the majority of the population declare themselves as Hungarians. However, their forebears are Kumans, nomadic people of Turkish origin who came to the Pannonian Plain in the 12th century from Central Asia. Photo courtesy of Biljana Marceta

The Wealth of Diversity project also involves training the local population that will be involved in providing tourism services. It will be essential to raise the quality of these services to a level that meets contemporary tourist expectations and, through modern technologies (a website, mobile apps and social networking), make promotional information accessible.

The local population, which has increasingly been abandoning the villages for better opportunities elsewhere, places great hope in the Wealth of Diversity project. Here, a multiculturalism unique in Europe can be promoted, and the survival of these communities is made possible.

Are you interested in experiencing the Wealth of Diversity in Vojvodina, Serbia? Contact Magelan Travel, the whl.travel local connection in Belgrade. The team is dedicated to growing Serbian tourism in truly beneficial ways.

The city of Podgorica, the capital and largest city in Montenegro (known locally as Crna Gora), is at the heart of an area overflowing with geological wonders. It is, therefore, a great base from which to make half- and full-day excursions, as well as overnight tours, as most companies operate out of this important centre.

Grab one (of many) fishing boats and head to the centre of Montenegro's Skadar Lake, where the fishing (or lazing) opportunities are as copious as the waters. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Alluring Lakes

Perhaps the most famous Podgorica ecotourism attraction is the vast Skadar Lake National Park, encompassing a lake the surrounding landscape of which has remained unspoiled for millions of years, preserving stunning primeval forests.

This includes the stunning Pavlova Strana, a moat-like lake formed by the river Crnojevića where it etches a wide arc between two mountains. This location has been crowned “one of the most beautiful geographical wonders in the world,” where the river is like a ribbon of blue-black against what locals call the emerald pyramids. Make sure to take time to drink in the view, best when crowds of camera-toting tourists aren’t jostling for the perfect shot.

The feeling of isolation possible in Montenegro is almost unrivalled in Europe. You can take a boat cruise to the centre of Skadar and see no one else for miles, afloat alone with nature as it was meant to be. Skadar Lake is a also famous amongst anglers, so you might want to try your hand at fishing here; carp are as abundant as the trout and bleak. Fish by day or by night with harpoons, nets or lines. Take what you catch back to your hotel and fry it by the lakeside. For the full experience, stay at Vranjina, a famous fishermen’s community.

Durmitor's Black Lake, part of Montenegro's exceptional untouched wilderness, has been made all the more mysterious by the folklore about it. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Of course, Skadar isn’t the only place where you can fish. Along the Adriatic Sea, you can find dentex, mullet, sea perch, sardelle, red porgy, lobsters, shrimps, cuttlefish, octopus and squids (among others). Inland, famous freshwater rivers like the Moraca, Bojana and Piva are all packed with fish.

Phenomenal Parks

Montenegro boasts five national parks and extended buffer zones around them. Adjacent to Durmitor National Park is the magnificent Nevidio Canyon, the most recent canyon to have been discovered in Europe. A canyoning experience in the Nevidio (meaning ‘Unseen’) is a test for even the most hardened adrenaline seekers. Visitors should be prepared to abseil down a rock face (only in the summer months) when the water is at its highest, climb steep cliffs, swim through rapids and traverse towering waterfalls. You don’t need any special training (beyond knowing how to swim) and instructors are well versed in all safety precautions.

If you prefer to test your ecotourism mettle in a more controlled setting, there’s always the Ivanova Korita Adventure Park. This proving ground has seven different ‘paths’ through Lovcen National Park, where, as animals look on, you can balance from tree-high cables, jump from platform to platform or swing from tree to tree. There’s plenty for the whole family, with courses ranging from one to 15 metres in height, depending upon participants’ ages. The park, which includes overnight lodging in bungalows, meets European safety standards so first-timers need not be afraid.

For anyone keen on a test of mettle, the Tara River cuts through some of the most unsploied nature in Europe. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Riveting Rides

One key must-see site on any Montenegro visit is the Tara River, at the heart of Durmitor National Park. A raft down the Tara takes you through untouched beech forests on undulating rapids that range from breathtaking white water to languid calms prefect for photo ops. You also pass by waterfalls and campgrounds where most Tara River tours stop for lunch.

Another popular Podgorica ecotourism option is a jeep safari through the Durmitor Massif, a wide plain punctuated by mountains reaching as high as 2,500 metres, 18 glacial lakes and vistas that rival those in the Alps. Here you can visit traditional villages or eat lunch with locals by the famous Black Lake. In 1980, UNESCO listed this 390-square-kilometre Durmitor National Park as a World Heritage site. Durmitor is a great place to begin one’s trip to the Tara River, the deepest canyon in Europe.

Great in Any Season

The black mountains and crystal waters surrounding Podgorica are particularly entrancing in summer. At this time of year, Montenegro blossoms and most Podgorica tours and Podgorica hotels are eager to welcome tourists. You may with to combine a holiday in Podgorica with a trip to the famed beach town of Budva.

Climb or traverse the deepest canyon in Europe, created by Tara River, one of Montenegro's great natural wonders. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Although summer is the peak season, if you’re looking ecotourism experience in nature’s rawest state in a country nearly empty of tourists, Montenegro also offers winter sports. For skiers and ice climbers, Montenegro’s unspoilt conditions are beyond compare.

Thinking of going to Montenegro? Contact award-winning Montenegro Adventures, the whl.travel local connection in Podgorica, as well as in Budva and the Bay of Kotor, for tours, accommodation and a load of the kinds of hints you could only get from a local.

Even better, Budva is one of those rare gems that offer true cultural immersion away from the tourist trail, but with the services of a major destination. Beyond all the trimmings of the perfect beach vacation, what makes Budva so much more than an average escape can be found in its centuries-old architecture, exceptional natural scenery and exciting entertainment.

The little alleys and squares of the Stari Grad, or Old Town, of Budva, Montenegro brim with boutiques, konobas (traditional Mediterranean restaurants) and cafes. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Arts and Entertainment

Budva’s Old Town (or Stari Grad) is one of the best of its kind in Europe, meticulously restored after a cataclysmic earthquake in 1979. It plays a central role in the city’s contemporary summertime festivities. Theatre artists can be found everywhere in the twisting maze of its streets, performing under old arches, in ancient churches, outside famous monuments or simply in a space between two buildings. In summer, the Old Town literally comes alive with art, music and performance.

For example, well known in Budva is the annual Budva Music Festival, or Pjesma Mediterana, one of the best-known open-air performances in the Balkans. Founded in 1992, this festival has become a premier event in the region, showcasing some of its best talent.

The hotspot of Budva, Montenegro, the beachfront of the main city is filled with young adults in the summertime, giving the promenade a carefree vibe. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Budva’s Beaches

A beach holiday isn’t much without perfect beaches from which to choose. Situated on one shoulder of the Mediterranean, Budva doesn’t disappoint. There are 17 beaches to consider; each one boasts beautiful turquoise waters, fine-pebbled sand and plenty of sunshine.

The most famous Budva beach is probably Mogren, an exclusive strand accessible only through the Avala Hotel. Just 500 metres from the Old Town, it’s a sheltered 350-metre cove of two beaches connected by an underground tunnel. Large flanking cliffs prevent exposure to the wind and have protected the beach from overdevelopment or crowding.

Another option is the natural-heritage Jaz Beach, frequented by nature lovers keen on visiting unusually crystal-clear waters and large accommodating camping grounds. Although Jaz beach is nudist friendly, sunbathing in the buff is less than the norm; for full exposure, there’s a smaller more discreet Jaz beach. High surrounding hills are perfect for day hikes to break up too much lounging.

Until 50 years ago a little fishing village, Sveti Stefan, near Budva, Montengro, was transformed into a luxurious hotel in the 1970s and just reopened as one of the Aman Resorts hotels. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Exotic Islands

Luxury island life is also on offer in Budva. Once a pretty fishing village, Sveti Stefan is now a small presque-isle paradise, a hideaway for the rich and famous; it is, however, also accessible to day-trippers for a one-euro bus fare and six-euro entrance fee. Sveti Stefan has been graced by the likes of Claudia Schiffer, Ingemar Stenmark, Kirk Douglas, Sophia Loren, Sylvester Stallone and Willy Brant to name a few.

For a different kind of getaway, Sveti Nikola is a playground for true adventurers. The island is littered with tiny coves and exotic Mediterranean plants, as well as long stretches of pristine beach that have barely succumbed to the pressure of a human footprint. Here one can play Robinson Crusoe all day long and swim back to Budva, even at night, when the tide is low.

Budva also offers a number of diving opportunities.

By night, the promenade and marina of Budva, Montenegro, are transformed into a buzzing town filled with outdoor cafes and laid-back cafes featuring live music. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Exciting Nightlife

Nightlife in Budva is unparalleled in the Balkans, making it a huge draw for the younger crowds. Walking down the waterside promenade at night is a journey through different types of tunes all tangling in the space shared by the many outdoor bars and cafes. From bass-heavy hip-hop and pop music to more mellow folk melodies and even a bit of trance music, there’s a little something for everyone.

Thinking of going to Montenegro this summer? Contact Montenegro Adventures, the whl.travel local connection in Budva, as well as in Podgorica and the Bay of Kotor, for tours, accommodation and a load of the kinds of hints you could only get from a local.

The afternoon hours shed a flattering light on Sarajevo's Miljacka canal in the historical quarters, all surrounded by modern high-reaching towers. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

This month, whl.travel local partner Dzenita Delibasic of Green Visions delivers the scoop on Sarajevo, capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Sarajevo never fails to capture the imagination. Whether it fascinates with its rich history of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences, intrigues curious minds with sights like the Latin Bridge where Franz Ferdinand’s assassination triggered World War I, or charms with its towering green surrounding mountains, unquenchable cafe culture and friendly hospitality, Sarajevo is a place that exceeds expectations.

These handcrafted beaded slippers are a colourful Sarajevo specialty item that visitors love to bring home as a cosy memento. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Day Trips

On your city tour of Sarajevo you’re brought to the city’s beating heart, the Old Town’s main square – Baščaršija – which has for a long time been the most happening place in town. All around it are old houses and cobblestone streets filled with numerous tiny shops where you can pick up the perfect gift for loved ones back at home.

In the nearby surrounding area, you will be captivated by the Old Town Hall (National Library), built in 1896 on the banks of the Miljacka River just across the street from Inat Kuca (Spite House), a well-known restaurant. Within just a few hundred metres of there is a wide range of historic sites such as Brusa Bezistan (a former trading centre that is now the Sarajevo City Museum), the Orthodox Church (1539), the Synagogue (1581), the Roman Catholic Cathedral (1889) and Gazi Husrev-beg’s Mosque (1531), to name just a few. If you wish to see how people lived in the time of the Ottomans, there is the Svrzina House, a Turkish-style house of well-known Muslim families.

Part of Sarajevo's beauty is its relative proximity to rural mountain villages like Lukomir, where old Bosnian ways of life are still preserved today. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Once you get your fill of the busy city centres and wish to escape into the mountains, we recommend a trip that combines both culture and nature. A day trip to Lukomir – at 1,469 metres above sea level it’s Bosnia’s highest village – combines a glimpse of life in the mountains with a visit to the local ancient stecci (medieval tombstones). Lukomir villagers still adhere to the ‘old way’ of doing things, including wearing traditional dress and the occasional turban or fez. This is the perfect place to understand a bit more about the realities of living in a Bosnian mountain village cut off from the outside world during the winter months.

A more active outdoor alternative is to join us on one of our snowshoeing trips which, thanks to the masses of deep, powdery snow that falls on the surrounding mountains, are becoming more and more popular in this part of the world. Nothing compares to the tranquillity of snowshoe walks far away from the crowds through pristine and snow-covered fairytale forests and mountain peaks.

Sarajevo is a great jumping-off point for winter sports such as snowshoeing, which is gaining popularity in the region. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Shopping

The perfect place to start shopping in Sarajevo is in the centre of the old town Baščaršija. On Kazandziluk Street, for example, old coppersmiths work at making fantastic coffee and tea sets. Other artisans produce handmade shoes and slippers, Bosnian and Persian carpets and high-quality gold jewellery.

Modern stores are in the shopping centres like BBI on Titova Street and Alta on Marijin Dvor. Fresh and organic fruit and vegetables can be bought at the Markale Market close to the Eternal Flame War Memorial.

And when that’s all done, it’s always time for a coffee in one of many cafés, where you experience the laid-back atmosphere typical of Bosnian coffee culture.

Coppersmith Street is one of the characteristic pedestrian arteries of Sarajevo's Old Town. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Restaurants

If you desire a beautiful view with affordable tasty traditional Bosnian food, go to Kod Bibana restaurant.

Vegetarians and seafood lovers will enjoy Karuzzo, a small but comfy place next to the Markale Market. Inat Kuca, mentioned above, offers a great variety of local food in an authentic Bosnian atmosphere.

For a refreshing pint of good beer on a hot summer night, head to the Pivnica (Brewery) restaurant near the Franciscan Church on the left side of the Miljacka River. Its got excellent food and is the only Bosnian brewery that produces dark beer. Eager to try local and international wines instead? Visit Noovi Wine Bar situated on a small hill above Djece Sarajeva Park on Tina Ujevica Street. Do not forget to order their mind-blowing mali kolaci (small chocolate cookies).

Sarajevo's Markale Market is popular with locals filling their baskets with fresh produce for their families. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Local treats

Cevapi, small and tasty sausages served with pita bread and onions, are ubiquitous, but best in the many cevabdzinica shops in Sarajevo, two of the most famous of which are Zeljo and Petica, both in the old town.

Another traditional treat is burek, baked pastry filled with meat that can be bought in a buregdzinica. After this filling snack, treat yourself to a hurmasica, a date-shaped pastry soaked in a very sweet syrup sauce, or tufahija, stewed apples with a walnut filling.

Night Out

As soon as the Sarajevo weather warms up, the entire length of Strosmajerova Street is crowded with the tables and chairs of its flanking coffee bars. From there, depending on your desire, you can choose between a cosy little Mediterranean restaurant like Barhana, at number 8 Djulagina Cikma Street, and staying late at the popular Cafe Opera, which is a kind of a mini-club with lots of local events like live music, DJ performances and thematic evenings.

Strosmajerova Street in the Old Town of Sarajevo is the hub of the city's chill cafe culture by day and vibrant nightlife after dark. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Lovers of ethnic cuisine, cocktails and wine will be among good company in Hacienda. This Mexican cantina is not only a lounge bar and restaurant, but also one of the best clubs in Sarajevo. Elsewhere, you can dance through the night in Sarajevo’s Basement disco or spend a relaxing evening with a cup of unbelievably delicious hot chocolate in the Cafe Zlatna Ribica (goldfish). This small bar is in the immediate vicinity of the Eternal Flame and its fin-de-siècle interior is decorated with sewing machines and other paraphernalia.

Whether it is summer or winter there is always some Sarajevo cultural event you can attend, like the Sarajevo Film Festival, the music of Baščaršija Nights, the arts-oriented Sarajevo Winter Festival and the MESS Sarajevo International Theatre Festival.

Laura has a large collection of fearless travel tales from the carefree days when she was in her 20s. She did a lot of solo travel, ranging from a Greyhound bus trip all over Canada and hitchhiking on Vancouver Island to a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in South Africa.

One of many things that enchanted Laura Payne about Albania was its ancient ruins such as Butrint (pictured in the background here) in the south of the country

She marvels at her luck. In all her years of young and adventurous solo travel, she never found herself in a bad situation. Her best memories are of the people met and experiences had on the road.

WHL Group: Which is your favourite WHL Group destination
Laura: Albania, although I may be biased.

WHLG: Which would you most like to visit?
Laura: Vanuatu.

WHLG: What would you never travel without?
Laura: Mosquito repellent.

WHLG: What do you miss most about home when travelling?
Laura: My bathtub.

WHLG: What’s the most adventurous trip you’ve ever taken?
Laura: Rock jumping in Greece (from 18 metres above the sea!), driving solo from Cape Town to Johannesburg and a camping trip in a snowstorm in Canada.

Whether in western Europe or in the Albanian Alps, skiing has always been one of Laura Payne's favorite pastimes and earliest travel memories

WHLG: What is your funniest travel experience?
Laura: I was still in my teens and on a Eurail train trip in Europe with a close friend of mine. We decided to use the very last of our money to buy tickets to a rock festival. The only problem was that we had no money left for food. Soon we discovered that we could ‘earn’ food and drinks by returning plastic cups to the catering company. We had so much fun collecting the cups and trying to get as many as possible that we almost forgot to listen to the music!

WHLG: What is your scariest travel experience?
Laura: It really was not scary, but once when I was hitchhiking, a car stopped and I opened the door. At first glance there was nothing wrong in particular, but my intuition said to not get in. So I said thanks and closed the door, letting him drive off without me. I still think it was a good decision.

WHLG: If you could go on holiday with anyone famous – living or dead – who would you take?
Laura: Johnny Depp! Do I need to say why?

Laura can't wait to show Lilou, her baby girl, all the places that she loves in Albania, the country that she now calls home

WHLG: Describe the best and worst accommodation you’ve ever stayed in.
Laura: Best: A really nice hostel in South Africa, where they gave us free lobster with their Christmas dinner. Worst: A hotel in Cumbucco, Brazil.

WHLG: Describe your earliest travel memory.
Laura: I was trying to snowboard with one ski when I was just three years old.

WHLG: Please briefly explain what you think local travel is.
Laura: As I’ve written elsewhere, it involves as many local actors as possible in the travel experience of the tourist.

WHLG: In what ways do you see local travel benefiting the country in which you live?
Laura: We have created a network of local drivers and guesthouses which we helped get ready for tourism. Nowadays we supply them with many tourists a year!

Apparently, that same website has been instrumental in capturing some of the same sense brilliance in “this small but fabulous destination.” Late last year, it was awarded the country’s Wild Beauty Award 2010 for Best Tourism Website.

The Montenegro Adventures team accepts their Wild Beauty Award 2010 for Best Tourism Website in Montenegro

“We are aware that our work has just begun, and we have so many plans for the future. We hope that we will be able to attract a growing number of independent travellers to Montenegro, to explore new markets. But we still have a lot to learn – the whole project is a big learning exercise for our team,” said Slavica Vukcevic, Executive Director of Montenegro Adventures. “The plan is to expand by working with a much larger number of accommodation providers, and to add various other products and services, but also we would like to post more content about different regions, traditions, culture, events, etc. We have been listening intently to all the feedback we received from our clients and will respond to many of the given suggestions in the next year.”

Wild and Beautiful

First organized in 2005 by the National Tourism Organization of Montenegro under the auspices of the President of Montenegro, the Wild Beauty Award was created with the aim of improving the image of Montenegro by promoting excellence and raising the quality of the county’s tourism sector. The awards cover everything from hotels, tourism companies and campaigns to events, projects, websites and more.

The 2010 award ceremony was held in the Government House (Vladin Dom) of Cetinje, the historic capital of Old Royal Montenegro. The building was built in 1910, the same year in which Montenegro was proclaimed a kingdom, making the awards of 2010 part of a centennial celebration.

Despite the importance of the year, the awards this year were relatively understated. In a break from routine, the National Tourism Organization decided to donate part of the resources budgeted for this occasion to the Rijeka Crnojevica community, which suffered terribly during recent floods.

King Nikola and Queen Milena in front of the Vladin Dom of Cetinje on August 28, 1910, the day of the proclamation of the Kingdom of Montenegro

Montenegro Adventures

Montenegro Adventures was established by the Centre for Sustainable Tourism Initiatives (CSTI), a local Montenegrin NGO founded as a lasting actor in the development and promotion of tourism in Montenegro. CSTI went on to develop more than 40 unique tours, most of them adventure-based or eco-cultural in orientation, some in remote parts of the country; high-quality promotional materials; and strong partnerships on the ground with local communities, national government bodies and key organisations abroad.

As demand for CSTI-developed tourism products grew, two needs were identified. First, independent travellers and small groups were asking to travel, but, second, “All of our tours were just sitting around unused,” said Vukcevic. “We had tested the tours – advertised them, taken a few people and journalists on them – and we thought local operators would carry on the tours. But they didn’t.” And so, Montenegro Adventures was born.

Whereas CSTI is an NGO that develops responsible and sustainable tourism products, Montenegro Adventures is a for-profit tourism agency that sells those products. However, their desired end result – using sustainable and responsible travel practices to improve the quality of life in Montenegro, preserve cultural heritage and protect the environment – is refreshingly the same.

Montenegro Adventures went on to sign a contract with the International Finance Corporation (IFC is a member of the World Bank Group) and whl.travel, for which it is the local partner in Montenegro and oversees three accommodation- and tour-booking destination portals covering Montenegro’s capital city of Podgorica and its surrounding mountains, the elegant seaside Budva and southern Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor.

The Montenegro Adventures and its three associated whl.travel websites were honoured with the Wild Beauty Award 2010

Looking Ahead

It was “during our work on these destination-management portals that we realized how important it is to cooperate with different institutions and businesses,” explained Vukcevic. “So far we have invested huge effort in travelling throughout Montenegro, working on different products and services, and working with different accommodation providers. In 2011, we plan to focus on transfers and tours, but also we would like to continue supporting the efforts of local tourism organisations and event organisers to promote local traditional events throughout Montenegro.”

As a young but conscientious company with lots of momentum, Montenegro Adventures is also committed to improving the business environment in Montenegro. “We are a relatively new company (almost a startup), but we think helping to streamline administrative processes and promote operational improvements for the benefit of all small and medium enterprises is a must,” concluded Vukcevic. “For that reason, we are actively participating in several working groups organised by the National Tourism Organization or the Ministry of Tourism, such as the Hiking and Biking Development Project, the Montenegro Convention Bureau and, lately, the MOA (a very informal name for a group of Montenegrin outdoor agencies). We have also recently been recognized by SNV (the Dutch Development Organization) as one of their ‘local capacity builders’ – trainers/consultants active in different projects related to enhancing the economic potential and capacity building of small enterprises in the tourism sector.”

Reachable on snowshoes outside Sarajevo, capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Skakavac Waterfall is found frozen at high noon on Christmas. Photo courtesy of Dzenita Delibasic

The city of Sarajevo, capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, lies in a valley surrounded by hills and mountains, which makes it the perfect location for winter activities. In fact, because of the fantastic winter sport opportunities on the surrounding mountains of Bjelašnica and Jahorina, Sarajevo was chosen to host the XIV Winter Olympic Games in 1984.

Fortunately, there is ample winter fun for non-skiers as much as skiers. For example, thanks to the deep masses of powdery snow on the hills around Sarajevo, snowshoeing is an excellent alternative to the mogul fields and becoming more and more popular in this part of the world.

In response to that, outdoor adventure tour operators like Green Visions, the whl.travel local connection in Sarajevo, offers trips and activities throughout the year, including options that peek into Sarajevo’s magical winter world. For the past 10 years, Green Visions has been developing year-round tourism that taps into the beauty of a frozen wonderland in close proximity to the city. Trips begin in a village just outside town, yet the trails lead to places so deeply natural and buried in white that they feel like they’re part of a different universe.

The Renowned Skakavac Waterfall

One of the most memorable hidden places in winter is Skakavac Waterfall. Skakavac is the Bosnian word for ‘grasshopper’ and the beautiful waterfall it denotes is a staggering 98 metres high, making it the largest continually flowing chute in the country. As such it is listed as a Monument of Nature and afforded special protections. Besides being very attractive in the summer, though, it takes on a new personality during winter months when it is almost completely frozen.

Skakavac is located north of the Sarajevo city centre. Green Visions has mastered the route and perfected a day trip, called the Grasshopper Waterfall Snow Adventure tour, mostly because we love getting out there so much ourselves.

Sandra shows the scale of the giant icicles of Skakavac Waterfall outside of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Photo courtesy of Dzenita Delibasic

In summer, the three-hour hike of easy walking is accessible to just about anyone. The trek begins in Nahorevo, a village right at the trail head, just beyond which you are immediately embraced by the beautiful slopes of Bukovik Mountain. In extreme winter conditions, however, the story is a little bit different. Because the waterfall is located on the far (northern) side of the mountain, low temperatures virtually guarantee lots of snow from the end of December until the end of March. Without proper equipment, reaching the waterfall is almost impossible. That’s where the snowshoes come in; they are they perfect way to reach the waterfall and enjoy the sublime scenery.

A Christmas Adventure to Remember

On 25th December 2010, the Green Visions team organised a special snowshoe Christmas hike to this enchanting place. On this particular morning, the sun was shining brightly in a crystal-clear sky and the air was a sharp cold. It was the perfect weather for snowshoeing. We really enjoyed the winter sun as the snow grated beneath our feet for the almost four strenuous hours it took us to reach our destination.

Waiting for us there was a fantastic view of water, mist and ice, transformed into fabulous frozen waterfall. We first arrived at the top and took a couple of photos of the vista. After a short lunch break and a soak in the sun, we decided to follow a narrow to the bottom.

Once below, we admired the waterfall in all its beauty, a natural ice sculpture reaching upward, touching the skies high above. We also realised that the icicles were more than five metres long! It was definitely a scene to remember.

The extreme cold discouraged us from staying any longer. Since noon had already passed, it was time to head home where warmth awaited. We all took one last look at Skakavac and said goodbye to it, promising that we would return soon, definitely before spring.

The trip back to Sarajevo led into the mist of the valley against a beautiful mountain backdrop. Photo courtesy of Dzenita Delibasic

Local Amazement

Walking back we observed the spectacle of the whole city of Sarajevo covered in mist. Only the Hum communication tower seemed to float above it all against the backdrop of the Treskavica and Bjelašnica mountains, both completely white and beckoning to us like beautiful ladies in their amazing gowns. That will have to be another adventure for another day.

On the way home we stopped in a local village to warm up in a tiny hut owned by Dragan. A lively character and impeccable host, he offered us his best rakija (plum brandy). After he found out where we’d been, he was more than surprised, saying that nobody had passed this way in more than two weeks. It was just too cold this time of year. As we thawed in the warmth of his home, the astonishment in his comments made us swell with pride.

Contact your whl.travel local connection in Sarajevo for more about Skakavac Waterfall and the Grasshopper Waterfall Showshoeing Hike or exploring other fun snowshoeing options, not to mention accommodation, other tours and local hints about the city.

Split, Croatia

Split is the second-largest city in Croatia and a central location in Dalmatia, a historical region of the east coast of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, the town is set in a natural bay and surrounded by mountains and hills on all sides except the south, where it faces the sea and the islands of Šolta, Brač, Hvar and Vis. Due to its central position, Split, whose name comes from the ancient word aspalathos, the name of the yellow flowers called Spanish broom or weaver’s broom that grow all around the region, is one of the country’s busiest ports and the perfect place to start your discovery of the Croatian islands.

Riva is the main waterfront promenade of Split, Croatia, and a perfect place for a coffee break in the sun

Although there are vestiges of prehistoric civilisations, the year 295 AD is considered the official year of the foundation of Split, as that was when construction of the Diocletian Palace commenced, to be finished 10 years later. The Diocletian Palace, a unique architectural wonder, was the retirement home for one of the last great Roman Emperors, Diocletian, who decided to return in his old age to a site not far from his birthplace. Over the centuries, the extended Palace area evolved into the core of the Old Town of Split and home to many people who built their houses, churches and other monuments inside its walls. People still live inside the Palace, making it a unique living monument whose importance was recognised by UNESCO and added to its World Heritage List.

In addition to the Palace, Split is also known for its special Mediterranean atmosphere and way of life, vivid tiny streets and open squares packed with small shops, galleries and bars, long waterfront promenade that serves as an open living room for all citizens and visitors, colourful greenmarket and fish market, fashionable people, football fans, many beaches, good nightlife and many other things.

The belltower of the Cathedral of St. Domnius was built in 13th century in Romanesque-Gothic style. The view from the top is a must-see in Split, Croatia.

Ana Roščić, your whl.travel local connection in Split, here shares her inside perspective on what she believes is some of the best her hometown has to offer.

Day Trip

No visit to Split is complete without a tour the Diocletian Palace. Walk through the basements to learn about the original look of the building and the way it developed over the centuries. Visit the Mausoleum of Diocletian, which was turned into the Cathedral of St. Domnius and climb the 60-metre high belltower to enjoy the view of the Old-City rooftops and the islands. Learn about local traditions in the Ethnographical Museum and urban history in the Town Museum. Enjoy fine art in the Emanuel Vidović Gallery or just wander through the labyrinth of narrow streets and be surprised by all the layers of history to be found just inside the Palace walls.

Split, as seen from the viewpoint on Marjan Hill, is surrounded by by mountains on all sides except its outlet to the sea

Time permitting, spend an afternoon at Marjan Hill, the recreational zone and source of fresh air situated just above the Old Town. Marjan is adjacent to beaches and covered with walking paths, cycling tracks and rock-climbing sites, as well as romantic viewpoints. Finish your Marjan tour in Meštrović Gallery – the former home and atelier of the greatest Croatian sculptor, Ivan Meštrović.

The Split vicinity offers a variety of excursions and activities, such as white-water rafting on the Cetina River, horse riding at Trilj, visits to the historical towns of Salona and Trogir, day trips to Krka National Park with its waterfalls and ethno village, discovery of the island of Šolta with its olive oil tasting and visits to the honey farm and many others.

Split is also the start and the finishing point for seven-day island-hopping cruises around the Adriatic Islands. This is one of the best ways to enjoy the Adriatic Sea and visit some of the most popular islands like Hvar, Brač, Korčula and Mljet.

The Cetina River, near Split, is the main destination for river-based activities in Dalmatia, Croatia, such as rafting and canyoning. As the river passes through a magnificent canyon, the rocks also attract climbers from all around the world

Shopping

Engaging local shopping experiences can be found every morning from Monday to Saturday at the greenmarket and fish market. The colourful and vivid greenmarket or Pazar is notable for its fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers and milk products, although there are many other unexpected things. The fish market is a chance to learn about the different Adriatic fish species and then try the very fresh catch of the day. Fashionistas will enjoy the huge choice of shoe shops as well as places to buy sunglasses.

Restaurants

Just a short walk from the Palace is a little fishing port called Matejuška, surrounded by the historical suburban district of Varoš. The area here is full of typical Dalmatian restaurants, called konoba.

Start a healthy local-fare dinner, complete with a delightful house wine, with homemade smoked ham, called pršut, cheese and olives, or some salted anchovies; as a main dish, try a shrimp risotto, a fish stew (brodet) or veal in a wine sauce (pašticada). For dessert, indulge in the Dalmatian-style crème brulée, called rožata.

Picigin is a game invented in Split, Croatia, and played on the Bačvice beach through the year.

Local Treats

A five-minute walk from the Old Town is a beach called Bačvice, cherished by the locals as the place where the special game of Picigin was invented. As soon as you step on the beach, you will see people playing it, mostly young men in groups of five or six at the shallow part of the beach. The game is played by throwing a small rubber ball to each player without losing it and making as much effort as possible to get the ball, which means jumping and throwing your body into the sea. There is even a world championship organised every summer for the best teams in Split and from other parts of the world (it’s mostly Croatia, but everybody is invited). The most fanatical players can be seen playing throughout the year and especially on New Year’s Eve and Christmas, even if the weather is snowy or sunny. Don’t be afraid to try and play. Local groups have welcomed visitors who, after some practice, show skill at it.

Night Out

Nightlife in Split usually starts with a few drinks in the Palace in some of the tiny narrow streets packed with bars, where people stand on the street or sit on the stairs. Afterward, most of the young people continue to Bačvice beach and choose one of the many cocktail bars that play music all night. Near Poljud (the famous football stadium) is another location known for its fancy nightclubs.

Another way to spend the evening to enjoy some of the cultural performances taking place in the Palace every night in summer. Watch a movie in the open-air cinema or a play in the open squares and other locations during the Split Summer Festival.

The Selimaj Guesthouse in Valbona, Albania. Click on picture to learn more.

The village of Theth has made its way into the guidebooks as a must-see in the Albanian Alps, and for good reason. The nearby villages of Valbona and Vermosh are also idyllic, photogenic and even less tourist-trodden.

The Nacaj Guesthouse, Vermosh. Click on picture to learn more.

The village of Vermosh is in the northernmost tip of Albania, just a few kilometers from the Montenegran border. Given the population of only a few hundred people, rural serenity is guaranteed.

The Nika Guesthouse, Nderlysa (near Theth). Click on the picture to learn more.

The whitewashed exteriors and antiquated roofing of traditional guesthouses lend them character and distinction. They punctuate the postcard landscape of the Albanian north.

The Mitaj Guesthouse, Vermosh. Click on the picture to learn more.

The families with guesthouses in Vermosh are hoping that their village will follow in Theth’s footsteps as an emerging destination for tourism in Albania. A highlight in Vermosh is the Mitaj guesthouse and nature hostel, where the owner has actually built a treehouse bar on his land.

The Roza Rupa Guesthouse, Theth. Click on the picture to learn more.

Various development organizations, such as the German Organization for Technical Cooperation, have worked with the host families in the area to bring their guesthouses up to standard. While travelers must keep in mind that these are very modest, simple and rustic family home environments, they will be pleased to find that the accommodations do provide a comfortable stay.

The Terthorja Guesthouse, Theth. Click on the picture to learn more.

The village guesthouses of the north are perhaps at their finest in the late summer and autumn. Fall foliage in this region adds an extra layer of enchantment.

Although this article first appeared on the Outdoor Albania blog, this version of this article was first published by our friends at the Local Travel Movement, who have agreed to its republication here.

View the original article on the Local Travel Movement blog.

At the centre of the Riječka nahija is Riječka Crnojevica, a tiny settlement on a river of the same name leading to Skadar Lake. Many Old Royal Montenegro villages like this are deserted or reduced to one or two families. The project will visit all of these villages to identify anybody with any products that can be made market ready.

Sadly, today, despite its incredible cultural and historical importance, its proximity to other major attraction (like the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kotor and its famous bay, Skadar Lake National Park and the Ostrog Monastery) and its beautifully preserved environment, the Old Royal Montenegro district is disused, neglected and its local population is in serious decline.

But that may all be about to change thanks to a contract signed between the Delegation of the European Commission in Montenegro and the Centre for Sustainable Tourism Initiatives (CSTI).

From the top of Mt. Lovćen, a symbol of Montenegrin freedom since the villages on its slopes were never been conquered by either Austrians or Turks, the whole of Old Royal Montenegro is visible.

A Heritage Treasure Trove

Old Royal Montenegro covers the broad area between the Zeta River, Skadar Lake and the Bay of Kotor and consists principally of rural communities and the old historic capital of Cetinje. Apart from in Cetinje and the Mt. Lovćen area, which are historic highlights of Montenegro, the infrastructure of traditional buildings and historical sites in the district is however in terrible disrepair and the local populations, which have retained a distinct culture, one based on age-old traditional values and lifestyles, are diminishing in number. All this is now the focus of an effort to inspire new life and opportunity through travel and tourism.

For the next 18 months, CSTI will be leading a project to identify the district’s traditional and cultural tourism products, stimulate and upgrade tourism services, develop concepts for new tourism products that take advantage of the unique local attributes, and work to improve knowledge and raise awareness of the cultural heritage opportunities in Old Royal Montenegro (as well as throughout the country).

The project’s target groups are local producers of traditional products (wine, honey, cheese, ham, souvenirs, handicrafts etc.), owners of the old authentic stone buildings, traditional restaurants and more. Where possible, particular heed will be given to the needs of young people and women within the target groups with an eye toward increasing their involvement.

“[Signing the contract] was a huge event for both organizations,” said Slavica Vukcevic, Executive Director of Montenegro Adventures, the commercial subsidiary of the CSTI and the whl.travel local connection in Montenegro. “We are extremely interested in developing new tourism products in this rural area, which, while quite underdeveloped, is full of tangible and intangible heritage of great importance to the future of tourism in Montenegro.”

Really Going Local

Foremost in many project partners’ minds is the preservation of cultural heritage as a crucial component of identity and self-understanding, qualities that help anchor a community in its past and give it meaning in the present.

This was reflected in a comment made by Mr Leopold Maurer, Ambassador of the European Union to Montenegro, in his speech at the contract signing: “The European Union attaches great significance to the activities carried out by civil society organisations and acknowledges the important role that a well-organized, functioning and strong civil society can play in strengthening pluralism, democracy, human rights, social inclusion, rural development, cultural dialogue and creativity, not only in the EU but also in all those countries striving to join EU.”

Svetlana Vujicic (left), Executive Director of CSTI, signs the contract with Mr. Leopold Maurer (centre), Ambassador of the European Union to Montenegro, and representatives from the Monetenegro Ministry for European Integration.

Given that, the CSTI project aspires to improve cooperation and cultural exchange between constituencies in the region at all levels; share best practices, especially those constructive in recognising and attaining ethno-cultural diversity through environmentally and culturally sustainable development; and showcase the unique culture of the region as one of its main attractions and an opportunity for economic advancement.

The ultimate goal for the region is to give it a new sense of vitality as a living cultural area, thus triggering positive change and creating a platform for future development.

Not yet catalogued but certainly well known are the district’s unique cultural practices and arts that, on a small scale, already attract the curiosity of tourists and provide opportunities for tourism and economic development. The challenge to CSTI will be to further invigorate these qualities without destroying the existing feeling or violating the interests of the locals.

Abandoned structures like this are all too common along small village roads throughout Old Montenegro. Some have been sold to foreign investors, who turn them into summer houses.

“For that reason, learning exchange and improving the knowledge from EU stakeholders and especially on sustainable development approach is the core value of this proposal,” says a concept note describing project.

That same concept note identifies the expected results as including the following:

• a tourism/cultural heritage inventory of at least 100 assets that will be shared among the participants, local and national authorities and international organizations working in the region;
• a core group of 15 motivated stakeholders who will gain and later share the experience of how to revive traditional ways of life/customs/cultural heritage in the community;
• proposed thematic routes that connect the district’s highlights and involve the assisted stakeholders.
• an awareness-raising campaign that will include a documentary, press releases, workshops/trainings.

Dalmatia, the stunning coastal region of Croatia, is home to a multitude of fascinating ports and villages, the largest of which is the harbour town of Split. An obligatory stop on any Croatian holiday, the site was even chosen as a retirement home by the Roman emperor Diocletian. It is now also a thriving transportation hub from which travellers can explore the surrounding region and Croatia’s renowned coastal islands.

Traditional wooden boats docked in front of Diocletian's Palace on a summer night in Split, Croatia

Split captures the true essence of the Adriatic while retaining a strong sense of historic intrigue, both crucial qualities that help deliver to visitors a unique and memorable sense of place. The heart of the town is built within and around the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace and is composed of a vast network of marble-paved streets along which many Split restaurants serve delicious fresh seafood meals. The crisp, salt-infused air of the flourishing harbor and the awe-inspiring Roman architecture of the city centre are a draw for many visitors, who use the town as a convenient base of operations from which to tour neighbouring areas and the rest of the country.

With the launch of the whl.travel’s www.split-hotels-croatia.com, travellers are now connected to the local expertise of Katarina and her team at Katarina Line Travel Agency. This family-owned business has been in operation for over 15 years and provided to thousands of travellers a wide variety of services, including reservations at a range of Split hotels and unforgettable cruises. On her family-business success, Katarina says “we take great pride in delivering the kind of care and personalised service that brings Split to life and provides for the atmosphere so many enjoy!”

Whether visitors are seeking a relaxing Adriatic cruise or a walk along the refreshing harbourside promenade, Split is one of the top vacation spots on the Dalmatian coast. The Split travel portal is the joins whl.travel following the Kvarner region, which covers Rijeka and Opatija.

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IN CROATIAN / NA HRVATSKOM:

Hrvatska prekrasna obalna regija Dalmacija se sastoji od mnoštva zapanjujućih luka i mjesta, od kojih je najočaravajuća sigurno morska luka grada Splita. Obavezna postaja svakog putovanja Hrvatskom, ovaj grad je jednom davno bio odmorište za rimskog cara Dioklecijana, a danas je brzorasteće prometno središte iz kojeg putnici istražuju okolicu i otoke.

A team dinner of Katerina Line, the whl.travel local connection for Split, Croatia

U samom srcu grada nalazi se Dioklecijanova Palača okružena golemom mrežom mramornih ulica i mnogim splitskim restoranima koji poslužuju ukusnu morsku hranu. Svježi morski zrak i rimska arhitektura koja izaziva strahopoštovanje su samo neki od razloga za posjetiti Split. Ovo je uistinu intrigirajuća destinacija koja zahvaća pravu bit Jadrana i nudi svakom posjetitelju jedinstveno iskustvo koje će se sigurno pamtiti.

S postavljanjem najnovijeg whl.travel portala, www.split-hotels-croatia.com putnici su sada povezani sa lokalnim stručnjacima Katarinom i njenom ekipom u Katarini Line Travel Agency. Ova obiteljska firma radi već više od 15 godina i pruža održive usluge tisućama putnika svake godine, uključujući i niz splitskih hotela i nezaboravna krstarenja Jadranom. O svom uspješnom obiteljskom poslu Katarina kaže da ‘sa velikim ponosom i brigom pružamo personaliziranu uslugu kojom gostima oživljavamo Split i nudimo atmosferu u kojoj mnogi uživaju’.

Bez obzira traže li posjetitelji opuštajuće krstarenje Jadranom ili šetnju splitskom Rivom, Split drži mjesto jednog od najatraktivnijih odredišta na jadranskoj obali.

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Situated in the southeastern Europe, the Balkans is fast becoming one of the most popular destinations for intrepid travellers. It’s a region of incredible untouched nature, delectable cuisines, rich historical lands begging for exploration and understanding, cool ocean breezes across golden sandy beaches, awe-inspiring mountain peaks dotted with centuries-old villages and genuinely friendly and smiling locals. The Balkans is also now quite a safe place to travel, so there’s no excuse not to visit this wonderful part of the world.

The Stari Most (Old Bridge) of Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina, spans the Neretva River. Originally built during the Ottoman era, it was destroyed during the Bosnian-Herzegovian War and then rebuilt according to the old design and using as much of the recovered original stone as possible. The bridge and surrounding historic neighbourhoods are now a World Heritage Site.

Bringing new Balkan travel experiences to visitors in the region has been one driving mission of the International Finance Corporation Advisory Services in Europe and Central Asia (IFC is a member of the World Bank Group), along with the WHL Group and local stakeholders. Working together since 2008 to develop tourism market readiness and infrastructure, these partners have, through a Balkan Hotel Market Access Program, succeeded in improving access to the region for independent travellers who prefer to book and pay for services online.

The project targeted eight destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and Albania for which Web-based travel portals were developed. In each destination, a local operator was carefully selected to own and operate the website, with follow-up support in technical development and web marketing provided by whl.travel (part of the WHL Group). It was not all about building websites though; the hard work fell to the local stakeholders, who worked directly with small accommodation owners unfamiliar with new technologies and therefore more reliant on traditional marketing. Despite the obstacles, Sarajevo and Medjugorje in Bosnia and Herzegovina; the Bay of Kotor, Budva and Podgorica in Montenegro; and Tirana and Shkoder and the Albanian Alps in Albania are now directly connected to the global e-marketplace.

A screen shot of the Tirana, Albania, website

After just one year of operation, the Web portals made possible by the Balkan Hotel Market Access Program had already generated over €105,000 for small accommodation and tour operators in the region. With over 150,000 unique visitors and some 620,000 page visits, the project had far exceeded expectations. The ongoing impact of the project is now also expected to be significant, having spurred commercial development in new destinations across Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Macedonia and further destinations in Albania.

“We managed to achieve all program objectives and the project has been recognized by the IFC management as successful and efficient with significant impact on regional tourism development,” praised Denis Mesihovic, IFC Program Coordinator. “The fact that the program revenue for the first year of the operations was three times higher that the program budget and expenses speaks for itself.”

This is no time to rest on one’s laurels though. “While giant strides have been made with the development of the region’s first online e-commerce enabled booking portals, there is still quite a bit of work that can be done at the product level,” said Zachary Rozga, CEO of WHL Consulting (also a WHL Group company), the entity that managed the project for IFC. “As with many new and emerging tourism destinations, targeted assistance needs to be delivered to the individual hotels, B&Bs and guesthouses on issues like pricing and commissions, digital content development and e-commerce distribution.”

Known as Beograd (‘White Castle’) in Serbian, Belgrade is an ancient city with a tumultuous, layered past that reaches far back to the fourth century BC, a historical mosaic of invaders and inhabitants that makes for the city’s colourful and curious Balkan quality. From Celts and Romans to Ottomans, Hapsburgs and Slavs, Belgrade and its surrounding northern province of Vojvodina have been a home and battleground for many.

The Tisa River Blossom is a unique natural phenomenon that occurs in Vojvodina every year in mid-June: for several days, just before sunset, insects known as the Tisa Flower rise to the surface of the Tisa River and perform their unusual wedding dance. It can look as if the whole river is in bloom.

Belgrade has nevertheless persevered and today emerged as a vibrant city – the modern capital of the Republic of Serbia, and the capital of the former Yugoslavia – a kaleidoscope of cultures with a buzzing, reputable nightlife.

A tour of Belgrade’s historical sights is testament to the city’s international heritage. For a glimpse of Belgrade’s chequered past, Kalemegdan fortress and park towers over the Danube and includes Muslim and Orthodox elements in its medieval walls. If you crave something essentially Serbian, head for seven days into the pristine Serbian countryside of Vojvodina and beyond to sample Serbian wine and villages hospitality, or stay in Belgrade and take a three-hour rakia tour for an introduction to this popular plum brandy. Be careful with the rakia though and save energy for some of Belgrade’s notorious nightlife; you may find yourself up until the wee hours of the morning in Belgrade’s bohemian quarter, cruising down the Danube on a party boat or in your yacht hostel!

whl.travel’s launch of www.belgrade-hotels-serbia.travel puts travellers in touch with Biljana Marceta and the team at Magelan Travel. Biljana feels joining the whl.travel network continues the spirit and aim of Magelan Travel: “By joining whl.travel, we hope that we can share experiences with all our network partners, so we can together upgrade our promotion of destinations and products to all responsible tourists in the world. We look forward to welcoming travellers to see and experience Belgrade!”

The Belgrade and Vojvodina website round out whl.travel’s still-growing coverage in the Balkans, which now includes destination portals across Albania, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Greece, Macedonia, Moldova and Montenegro.

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NA SRPSKOM / IN SERBIAN:

Beograd je poznat kao Beli grad Srbije i predstavlja istorijski, kulturni, aministrativni, edukacioni i privredni centar regiona. Istorijski slojevi naslagani su od praistorije do moderne istorije. Plemenske zajednice, Rimljani, Vizantija, Otomansko Carstvo, Austrougarska monarhija vekovima su se borili za ovu najznacajniju stratesku poziciju na Balkanu.

The Knight Tournament is an annual international festival held in the lower part of Belgrade's Kalemegdan fortress. More than 300 knights from Russia, Poland, Hungary, Romania and Serbia compete in traditional skills of war. Combat games, duels and tournaments make for a grand spectacle.

Ipak je Beograd odoleo vekovima razaranja i i ocuvao svoju lepotu, bogatstvo i znacaj. Ova bivsa prestonica Jugolavije a sada Srbije pravi je kaleidoskop kulture, duha tradicije, modernih pravaca.

Tura koja turiste vodi kroz najvazniji istorijski lokalitet Beograda, Kalemegdansku tvrdjavu i park sa ostacima pravoslavnih i islamskih gradjevina, znamenitosti i srednjovekovnih zidina. Ukoliko trazite nesto tradicionalno i izvorno, prikljucite se turistima u sedmodnevnog programa Anticki Gradovi-Anticko Vino ili se odlucite za kraci obilazak Beogradskih popularnih kafana u trajanju od tri sata posvecen pravim uzivaocima najjaceg Srpskog brenda, Rakija Tura. Ipak, stedite energiju za uzbudljive Beogradske noci, mozda u boemskoj cetvrti Skaradske ulice, na splavovima ili ploveci rekama.

whl.travel sa postavljanjem turisticke ponude na sajtu www.belgrade-hotels-serbia.travel spaja turiste sa Biljanom Marcetom, Katarinom Paunovic kao i ostalima iz Magelan Tima. U vezi uklucenja u whl.travel Biljana porucuje: “Nadamo se da cemo ukljucivanjem u WHL podeliti iskustva sa whl partnerima i kolega iz celog sveta, kako bi na svetsko turisticko trziste svi zajedno izasli sa bogatijom ponudom, koja u isto vreme pruza pravi dozivljaj i vodi racuna o ocuvanju zivotne sredine. Takodje se nadamo da cemo turistima ponuditi prirodna, kulturna i multikulturalna bogatstva Beograda i Srbije!”

Internet portal promovise turizam Beograda i Vojvodine upotpunjujuci ponudu Balkana sa ostalim portalima kao sto su Albanija, Bosna i Hercegovina, Crna Gora, Grcka, Hrvatska, Makedonija i Moldavija.