A view looking east toward Munda from the hills of Gizo township in the Solomon Islands. Photo courtesy of Danny Kennedy

In the midst of all the wild beauty, right in the heart of this seaborne country, is Ghizo Island, where a different kind of lifestyle and culture can also be found: one built around surfing.

Quality Breaks

Surfing is a newcomer to the Solomon Islands, but for a handful of locals it has become something more than just a pastime. A few old boards left behind by adventurous surf-trippers have changed the way people on Ghizo look at their waves. The cyclone swells created out in the Coral Sea that have made the east coast of Australia so famous also make their way up to the Solomons – and Ghizo sits right in their path.

The setups in the Solomons are nearly all reef breaks. Ghizo boasts at least two world-class spots, and what they lack in size they make up for in quality. Paelonge on Ghizo island is the most consistent. It regularly offers rights up to a 100 metres long, with two long barrel sections. Titiana is a left and when the swell hits the reef the right way, it’s the best wave on the island.

Solomon Islands top surfer, Sammy, goes high on a wave. A couple of days later the remains of this board were retrieved from tsunami debris. Photo courtesy of Will Darby

The Solomons are relatively unexplored by surfers; different swell directions and sizes often give birth to waves that have never been surfed, so the potential seems enormous. But the greatest thing about surfing here is that you truly feel like you’re experiencing the place firsthand. There is no surf industry to speak of, so if it’s an alternative to Bali you’re looking for, this isn’t it. But you won’t find a crowd either. This is just a bunch of locals, on battered but well-loved boards, who are really focused on getting the best waves. They’re out every chance they get and know every inch of their breaks intimately.

Getting Practical

November to April is the best time to get the cyclone swells, but generally it’s pretty consistent. The quality of the reefs means that what little swell there may be is usually turned into something really fun. When it does get big, it can be seriously powerful and hollow. That’s when the locals have a new excitement and energy that will set you buzzing with excitement on the paddle out. Often the break is dotted with kids body surfing and swimming around the reef, and only a very elite handful of locals will join you when waves reach six feet or more. It’s always best to trust their guidance; these reefs are as much their home as their local spot.

Sammy, a number 1 surfer in the Solomon Islands, is right at home with the waves of Ghizo Island. Photo courtesy of Will Darby

Entering the Solomon Islands is only possible through the capital, Honiara, on Guadalcanal. If you’re a historian, there are some fascinating World War II sites dotted around Honiara, which was a key strategic battleground in the Pacific theatre. A tour of Honiara is a great way to get oriented. Generally speaking, though, Honiara isn’t somewhere to linger too long; while it has a kind of gritty (yet safe) charm, you should get out and explore the country’s true beauty.

Getting around the Solomon Islands is done either by flying on Solomon Airlines or travelling via passenger boat. While the latter is often overcrowded, hot, a little smelly and fantastically slow, there is no better way to see the country and meet locals. After all, the Solomon Islands is a country defined by water, so the best way to get around is by boat. The sea trip from Honiara to Ghizo takes around 30 hours – and there are no cabins – but what you will see on your journey you will never forget. If you’re a surfer, it’s also a good way of looking after your boards, as sometimes the airline baggage handlers don’t quite get the ‘fibreglass’ thing! There are also companies that will hire you a boat and driver, or you can hitch rides with locals.

The laid-back but bustling town of Gizo, on Ghizo Island, is the second most major town of the Solomon Islands after its capital city of Honiara. Photo courtesy of Danny Kennedy

In terms of accommodation in the Solomon Islands, there are plenty of options on or around Ghizo Island. The main town, Gizo (same name as the island, just no ‘h’) has numerous numerous guesthouses and a big hotel, while a nearby island has two resorts if you’re looking for somewhere quieter. Gizo is a really laid-back place, although there’s a vibrant market with fresh fruit, vegetables and fish. There’s also a new hospital, and taxis and trucks run up and down the single street. This is the most major town after Honiara, but don’t expect a metropolis. Still, Gizo is a bustling place, and you’ll feel right at home here in no time, as complete strangers are usually incredibly friendly.

There is not a single surf shop in the Solomons, so remember to bring everything you’re going to need, including a spare board (your usual shortboard size) and especially a decent repair kit. The most important things you can bring however are an open mind, a friendly smile and a healthy respect for this beautiful place and the people who call it home.

Because of this, Jericoacoara became a famous tourist destination for international travellers. People from all over the world come to enjoy one of the most tranquil and beautiful places on the Brazilian coast, not to mention the long list of outdoor activities. Jericoacoara actually first became famous amongst foreign tourists, but today is also well known to Brazilians.

Not a long time ago, there wasn’t any electricity in the village. It wasn’t until 1998 that underground power cables were added, but only for the houses. There still aren’t any lampposts on the sand streets of Jericoacoara (yes, the streets are ‘made’ of sand where you can walk barefoot) just to keep the small village atmosphere and promote the moonlight.

This photo was taken in January of 2006. Jericoacoara was the final destination of a hitchhiking trip I took in Brazil that lasted two months. It wasn’t easy to get there, crossing miles and miles of giant sand dunes, but it was definitely worth it!

Sea Travel Options

At present, nearly all long-distance sea travel is more expensive than flying to your destination. But for us the journey is just as important as the getting there. Fed up with flying from place to place and feeling removed from the land and people we zoomed over without even noticing, we wanted to travel in a way that would let us appreciate the distance we would cover.

For a more authentic trans-oceanic alternative than a passenger cruise ship, board with the cargo on the A.S. Carelia. Photo courtesy of Anna Rice

We decided that we wanted to travel westward from the United Kingdom with the loose aim of reaching Singapore via Australia or New Zealand. Reaching Southeast Asia would therefore mean finding passage across the Atlantic Ocean and then later the Pacific Ocean, the Coral Sea and the Great Barrier Reef. We began to research our options and drew up a shortlist, which included: signing up as crew on a yacht, taking a passenger liner or trying to book ourselves onto a cargo ship.

Join the Crew

Joining a small boat crew would undoubtedly have been the slowest and most environmentally friendly way to travel. If you are interested in this, there are several fantastic websites that can help you. Find a Crew is one example, where travellers in need of a boat or crew can tailor their search in terms of skill, destination and budget. We consulted this at several points in our journey, without much luck. Nothing matched our journey requirements and timeframe.

When opting out of airplane travel, one option for crossing major bodies of water is to look for work as the crew of a sailboat. Photo courtesy of Anna Rice

Passenger Ships

Passenger liner travel is perhaps the most well-documented form of trans-oceanic transport and one we ended up taking twice – once to cross the Atlantic and a second time to cross the Pacific. We used an agent to book both of these routes, as they were able to offer us heavily discounted fares, which really helps when trying to stick to a budget. Among the many cruise deal sites around, we found that CruiseDeals offered us the most competitive prices.

Fares on passenger liners can be very reasonable – often much more so than on cargo ships – particularly if you book early or late and can travel during off-peak periods. Passenger liners are also generally considered more luxurious than cargo ships, but this of course depends on your definition of luxury. Is it entertainment and endless food buffets you are after? Or cabin space and access to the behind-the-scenes operations of a ship? If you think the latter, then a cargo ship journey might be for you.

Few people realize that cargo ships have amenities for passengers, such as cabins and sometimes even scenic sitting pools. Photo courtesy of Anna Rice

Go Cargo

Many people are simply not aware that numerous cargo ships offer passenger cabins. Or if they are, they often have the preconception that booking one is a difficult business. While it is no longer possible to obtain a ticket by turning up at a port, there are a number of agents who can make things easy by arranging it all for you. Here are a few:

* Hamish Jamieson at Freighter Travel is based in New Zealand. He is an expert on all things cargo and will answer all realistic questions quickly.

* Globoship, a Swiss company, are fantastic agents and will answer questions in English if your German is as bad as ours. They advertise last-minute passages (usually due to passenger cancellation) on their website and, most importantly, they seem to add the least amount of booking charges/agent fees onto travel costs, which always helps.

* Strand Travel deal with passenger bookings on container vessels and are very quick to answer any queries.

* The slightly higher-end Maris Freighter Cruises are also helpful but more of a travel club (and have the slightly higher prices to match).

On a cargo ship, the on-board entertainment consists of things like dramatic storm clouds and real behind-the-scenes life at sea. Photo courtesy of Anna Rice

Planning

When planning for cargo travel, get in touch with one or more agents as soon as you know what your ideal embarkation and destination points are, especially if wishing to travel between Australia and New Zealand, Australia and South East Asia or other popular routes. Even if an agent has nothing available at the time of first contact, as was the case for us, let them know that you are interested to hear if a new route opens or there is a cancellation.

Patience

We sent a number of initial inquiries that didn’t return any joy, but about six weeks later, we had an email from Globoship telling us that a new route had opened up from Adelaide to Singapore with sailings once a month. The price for a private, en suite cabin for the 10-day sailing was around £1000 per person (the average-price guideline for freighter travel currently stands at €90-110 per day per person), so we decided to book a late-December sailing.

When travelling across the Atlantic by boat, you open your eyes to the details of ocean life - like leaping dolphins, for example. Photo courtesy of Anna Rice

About a month before we were due to sail, we received an email from Globoship to say that the route had suddenly been cancelled but a sister ship, the AS Carelia, could offer us a cabin instead. The Carelia would sail from Brisbane to Port Klang in Malaysia via New Zealand and would take 10 days longer, therefore costing a couple of hundred pounds extra too. Globoship were very good and offered us a small discount on the new sailing “due to the inconvenience” but also added “that’s freighter travel for you.”

Payoff

After much discussion, we decided to go for it and are very glad we did. The experience is one we will remember for a long time. We ended up spending both Christmas and New Year with the Bulgarian, Russian and Filipino crew, all of whom made us feel very much at home. We were treated more like house guests than passengers and felt privileged to be invited into their fascinating world of navigation systems, route mapping, piracy warnings, engine rooms, crew table-tennis tournaments, home-style cooking, tropical storms, makeshift swimming pools, hard work and celebrations.

The sunset views from a cargo ship are just as awe-inspiring as views from the deck of a passenger cruise liner. Photo courtesy of Anna Rice

Michael Palin famously described his experience at sea as a sort of sensory deprivation. I liken it more to spending time somewhere remote where your surroundings become familiar but your eyes and senses become keener. They hone in to notice even the smallest change, such as a fish skimming the waves or a swallow nesting in a container. Nothing was ever predictable and no day on board could ever be described as boring. Our ‘slow travel’ circumnavigation of the globe is off to a great flight-free start.

The Monte Toboggan on Portugal's Madeira Island is just one of many ways locals have created to get from one place to another, ways that we believe are a vital part of a local travel experience

We believe that the different forms of local transport are unique qualities of a place that, when experienced, are a vital part of a local travel experience. To know a place is to get around it the way local people do: cramming yourself into a chicken bus in South America, throwing caution to the wind in a tuk-tuk in Southeast Asia or boarding a ferry in Africa. We dare you to give them a try! We’re sure you will find these rides to be a brilliant bonding experience with locals.

To inspire you… and in honour of our recent focus on local transport, we asked our network of local travel professionals all over the world to give us a glimpse of the best local conveyances in their destinations. Their responses are as varied as they are colourful – everything from trains and boats and buses to animal power and bicycles and three-wheeled wonders.

We’re pleased to present this gallery of the best of local transport inside the whl.travel network.To make it work:
+ Click on a thumbnail to open a preview.
+ Click the name of the photo to be taken to the full written entry supporting it.
+ Click the photo itself to close the preview.
+ Use the arrows to navigate through previews.

Trains on the Right Track

(click here to read more)

Bicycles Worldwide

(click here to read more)

Buses Not to Miss

(click here to read more)

Muscle Power

(click here to read more)

Transport on the Water

(click here to read more)

Three-Wheeled Wonders

(click here to read more)

At the heart of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi territory lies the vibrant provincial capital of Makassar. Formerly known as Ujung Pandang, the city has for centuries made its mark in Indonesian history as a bustling port. Today it’s a sprawling metropolis, still rich in history and culture – a perfect gateway from which to discover the rest of South Sulawesi and East Indonesia.

These 'Pinisi' can be found at Paotere sailing boat harbour, one of the points of interest in Makassar, Indonesia. Many pinisi are now used as live-aboard boats for tourism purposes in Indonesian waters, especially for diving. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Of particular interest is Tana Toraja, or “Torajaland,” a highland region that sits peacefully in the mountains more than 300 kilometres north of Makassar. This “Land of Heavenly Kings” is home to the indigenous Toraja people, who are known for their unique funeral rites, traditional houses with high-peaked roofs called tongkonan and their friendly and hospitable nature.

As a base of operations, though, the city of Makassar has something to offer to urbanites and outdoor enthusiasts alike. In town, a Makassar city tour takes visitors to see the most important cultural and historical icons, such as Fort Rotterdam, which was built during the Gowa/Makassar Kingdom in the 15th century and taken over by the Dutch in 17th century, Katangka Mosque, the oldest in the city, and Paotere Harbour, where you will find the traditional Pinisi sailboats.

The nature reserve of Bantimurung, located a short distance from Makassar, provides a snapshot of Sulawesi’s captivating natural beauty, while the Leang-Leang Caves, which can be covered as part of the same tour, opens a window into the lives of some of mankind’s ancient ancestors. Alternatively, sun-seekers can opt for a visit to Samalona Island, one of several neighbouring isles where guests can spend a day toasting under the sun on a powdery white-sand beach or go skin diving amongst thriving coral reefs. These are just a few of the many things to see and do in Makassar.

Of course, even further afield, various Tana Toraja tours allow travellers to immerse themselves in the traditional village life of the Toraja people, see the ancient graves where they bury their dead and walk through the region’s extensive, picturesque rice paddies.

A village of traditional Toraja houses, called Tongkonan houses, found in Tana Toraja highlands of Sulawesi, about 300 kilometres north of Makassar, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

The new portal to Makassar and Toraja is now proudly owned by Ng Sebastian and the rest of his team at Incito Tours, also the local connection in nearby Komodo and the Lesser Sunda Islands. The launch of www.makassar-hotels.com gives travellers direct access to Makassar and Toraja hotels for every budget, as well as insight into the best places for shopping and eating, all of which contribute to an ideal getaway experience.

“Makassar and Toraja are destinations I know well as I live in Makassar and I started my tourism involvement here back in 1987 as a tour guide,” Sebastian gladly shares. “Makassar is my home base and my involvement in tourism at the destination is far more extensive than what I started 24 years ago. My whole life since then seems to be devoted to tourism, not only as a field where I earn my living, but also where I share my passion with others to make the destination better developed through my participation in various tourism activities. Operating the Makassar & Toraja portal, I talk about tourism but also take action in serving would-be visitors through the latest tourism trend: the use of information technology in planning the trips. whl.travel provides a great platform to work with, and there is always someone to help us out.”

Makassar is whl.travel’s newest travel portal in Indonesia, adding to those for Aceh and Komodo & Lesser Sunda Islands.

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IN INDONESIAN / DALAM BAHASA INDONESIA:

Datanglah ke Makassar dan Toraja – Indonesia bersama whl.travel

Di jantung Indonesia terletak Makassar, Ibukota Propinsi Sulawesi Selatan. Makassar adalah salah satu kota dengan pertumbuhan ekonomi tertinggi di Indonesia. Ini tidak mengherankan karena Makassar yang dulu sempat dinamakan Ujung Pandang ini adalah Bandar Perdagangan yang ramai sejak berabad silam. Saat ini Makassar adalah kota metropolitan yang terus tumbuh dengan warisan budaya yang kaya serta latar belakang sejarah yang kuat. Makassar adalah pintu gerbang yang ideal untuk menjelajahi Sulawesi Selatan, Pulau Sulawesi dan Indonesia Timur pada umumnya.

This closeup of the facade of a Tongkonan House shows some of the characteristic items, each of which is important in the Toraja culture of Sulawesi, Indonesia. There are more than 100 Toraja house-engraving patterns, each of which has a name and a meaning. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Berjalan ke utara anda akan menemukan Tana Toraja, yang bertengger di ketinggian pegunungan di jantung Sulawesi, sekitar 328 km dari Makassar. Tana Toraja yang dinamakan juga sebagai “Tondok Lepongan Bulan, Tana Matarik Allo” ini terkenal karena keunikan budayanya yang terjelma dalam Rumah Tongkonan, upacara penguburan serta masyarakatnya yang ramah dan bersahabat.

Makassar menawarkan daya tarik perkotaan dan juga aneka kegiatan luar ruang bagi pengunjungnya. City Tour Makassar mengantarkan wisatawan ke berbagai Ikon Kota Makassar seperti Fort Rotterdam yang dibangun oleh Raja – raja Gowa tetapi kemudian diambil alih oleh Belanda pada tahun 1667 setelah perang selama 7 tahun, Mesjid Katangka dan juga Pelabuhan Paotere dengan Perahu Pinisinya.

Melangkah sedikit ke Timur dari Makassar anda akan memasuki Bantimurung yang merupakan etalase keindahan alam dari Taman Nasional Bantimurung Bulusaraung (Babul) dengan air terjun, hutan tropis, gua – gua eksotis serta kupu – kupunya. Berdekatan dengan Bantimurung anda akan menemukan Gua Leang – Leang di mana anda seperti menengok dari jendela ke kehidupan prasejarah. Semua ini terangkum dalam tour yang sama. Sementara bagi anda yang suka dengan keceriaan di pantai dan laut, Pulau Samalona dan pulau lain di sekitarnya menanti dengan pasir putih dan air yang jernih serta keindahan bawa lautnya mengundang anda untuk menikmatinya. Semua ini hanya bagian kecil dari aneka Daya Tarik Makassar.

Aneka Paket Wisata Toraja memungkinkan pengunjung untuk merasuk jauh kedalam kehidupan Toraja dengan daya tarik budayanya yang erat berkaitan dengan penghargaan yang tinggi kepada nenek moyang melalui kuburan dan upacara pemakaman. Alam Toraja yang menawan dengan pemandangannya yang indah dan persawahan yang memikat mengundang pelintas alam menikmatinya.

A Toraja girl in traditional costume, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Portal Makassar dan Toraja sekarang dimiliki oleh Ng Sebastian dan timnya di Incito Tour yang juga merupakan pemilik dari Portal Komodo & Kepulauan Nusa Tenggara. Peluncuran www.makassar-hotels.com memungkinkan pengunjung mendapat gambaran yang lebih jelas tentang berbagai Hotel di Makassar dan Toraja. Pengunjung juga ditunjukan tempat – tempat belanja dan makan terbaik sehingga melengkapi pengalaman perjalanan.

“Makassar dan Toraja adalah destinasi yang saya kenal dengan baik karena saya tinggal di Makassar serta keterlibatan saya dalam dunia kepariwisataan dimulai di sini pada tahun 1987 sebagai Pramuwisata”. Demikian dikatakan Sebastian. “Makassar adalah di mana saya berada dan keterlibatan saya dalam dunia pariwisata destinasi ini jauh lebih luas daripada apa yang saya mulai 24 tahun lalu. Sejak itu kehidupan saya tercurah dalam kepariwisataan tidak hanya sebagai lahan tempat saya menghidupi diri tetapi juga tempat di mana saya berbagi dengan sesama untuk memajukan kepariwisataan di destinasi ini. Dengan meluncurkan Portal Makassar dan Toraja saya tidak hanya berbicara tetapi juga berbuat langsung dalam melayani calon wisatawan melalui trend perencanaan perjalanan paling mutakir, yaitu penggunaan Teknologi Informasi (Internet). Whl.travel mempunyai platform sistem yang andal dan selalu ada orang yang bisa ditanyai jika menemukan persoalan”.

Makassar adalah portal di Indonesia yang paling baru untuk melengkapi portal lain yang telah ada sebelumnya yaitu Aceh dan Komodo & Kepulauan Nusa Tenggara.

On trains in Myanmar (Burma), 'air conditioning' is hanging out the window or going for the full effect by riding up on top of the wagon. Photo courtesy of Stephen Lioy

Take It Easy – by Train

As you chug over the Gokteik Gorge on the rail line from Mandalay to Hsipaw, you are rattling in the tracks of part of American author Paul Theroux’s bizarre train journey recounted in The Great Railway Bazaar.

During the ride, if you feel like the train’s open windows don’t give you quite enough breathing room, climb over the crowd lining the aisles to get to a seat with a little more ventilation: the roof. Climb up between the cars and across the top at snail speed only to marvel at vendors walking upright with full loads of goods for the full length of the swaying wagon. When you’ve had enough, climb down to the somewhat safer but ultimately less exciting seat you vacated.

Before you buy your train tickets, think carefully about your notions of personal space and pick a class that suits. Upper-class offers a seat cushion and reserved seating, while ordinary-class is a bit of a tangled mess through which walking involves precisely placed steps from armrest to armrest over the crowd of passengers.

If you don't score a first-class cabin on the Ayeyarwady River ferry in Myanmar (Burma), then you may find yourself in a steerage-class slumber party on the deck. Photo courtesy of Stephen Lioy

Buy Yourself Some Time – by Boat

If boating is more your style, I’d suggest a slow cruise on the Ayeyarwady River by passenger ship to experience some of the river-town life of George Orwell’s novel, Burmese Days. Top-shelf tickets get you and three of your closest friends a middle-deck cabin for the whole ride. Sit in comfort on your shaded walkway as the banks and ports slide slowly by.

Cabins are limited and can sell out, though, in which case the other option is the deck free-for-all, which feels a lot like camping on a boat. During the day, tarps go up to provide each little group a bit of shade and a nice place to play cards and read, while at night these are converted to groundsheets as the boat becomes one big slumber party. It can get a bit chilly at night, so pack a light blanket along with a tarp.

Though many travellers take this trip from Myitkyina to Mandalay, if you’re a bit pressed for time, start at Orwell’s former home of Katha for a two-night trip.

The advantage of buses in Myanmar (Burma) is that some run under government radar rather than profiting the country's controversial military junta. Photo courtesy of Stephen Lioy

Meander to Mt. Popa – by Bus

After your boat/train/bus ride from Mandalay to Bagan, consider hanging out with the Nats (spirits) at Mount Popa. From Bagan’s Nyaung U township, bench-seat minibuses travel every morning to Popa. Since the insides of these buses can get pretty cramped, topside is once again the more interesting way to travel. Views over the countryside are especially nice on the approach to Popa, but the ride can get a bit dusty; some sort of makeshift face mask is useful. If there are a number of foreigners in/on your bus, the driver may even offer to stop at a few sites on the way back to Bagan.

Though many of the state-owned public transport options in Myanmar funnel money to the controversial military government, there’s little way around it. Many private bus companies do reportedly run below the government’s radar, but all public boat and train services profit the junta. Also note that most train and boat tickets for foreigners can only be purchased in US dollars, rather than in local currency (called kyat).

In a country full of interesting places and lots of friendly people, the possibility of the journey itself being an amusing adventure makes every trip more exciting. That’s the way it should be when you do some local travel in Myanmar. Read up about the political and human rights situation, though, so that you’re informed once you go. But definitely go.

On this virtual tour of Syrian modes of transport, you get a taste of the wide variety of unusual options on offer in our country.

Public Transport in the City

In Syria, we have numerous public transit systems that make the country ideal for budget travel. Instead of taking a relatively expensive taxi (a trip of six kilometres costs 75 Syrian pounds, or US$1.50), you can cover the same ground within a city on a minibus, called a ‘micro’, for a mere 10 pounds! ‘Micro’ buses are not very eco-friendly – they burn diesel and can only carry a maximum of 14 passengers – however, they get the job done.

At this central 'micro' hub under President Bridge in Damascus, Syria, travellers can find convenient transport to anywhere in the city. Photo courtesy of Flickr/xophe_g

Nowadays, large buses with a passenger capacity of about 90 people (30 sitting and 60 standing) are being introduced. These buses obviously burn more diesel than ‘micro’ buses; however, they get a lot more people to work while using less fuel per capita. That’s a Syrian carpool.

As an alternative to both, you are sure to spot the famous scania buses. These old vehicles have been roaming the roads since the 1960s and are still going strong today. Very powerful and colourful, scania buses are a sort of self-portrait of their owners, who put their own special touches into the wildly flashy decoration. I always love hopping on and enjoying the detail of each one!

The author, pictured here, can't get enough of the flashy decorations that makes each 'scania' bus unique in Syria. Photo courtesy of Flickr/alazaat

Tirtera: A Syrian Invention

A terizena in Aleppine dialect (or a tirtera in Damascene dialect) is what we call a roofed metal cart with a small engine of very low horsepower fuelled by the butane gas that is usually used for ovens! Newer ones are painted with elaborate polychromatic designs and beautiful decorations similar to the scania buses, while old ones are less-glamorous heaps of rusting metal. This is the transportation of choice for the masses in Syria. It is called a ‘tirtera’ because it makes a churning ‘tir tir tir’ sound. I can only imagine what a rap star like Xzibit could do to pimp this ride!

Suzuki

A well-rounded pickup truck, the Suzuki is the utility vehicle of choice in Syria, a lower-carbon-emissions version of a Toyota Hilux pickup, but with much less horsepower of course. Families use them on moving day to load fridges and heavy wooden beds. For kicks on weekends, Suzuki owners love to load their kids in the back and take them for a ride. You can find whole families seated in them in a circle as if they were at a picnic, especially in larger pickups. Truly a versatile, small Titan of a vehicle!

'Tir tir tir' goes the motor of these micro-vehicles that serve as common transport in Syria, which is why they are called 'tirteras'. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Trilli Bagus

The Donkey Wheel Cart

Endearing and powered on 100-percent vegetables or overripe fruit, these carts are often loaded with 50-100 watermelons and pulled by hardworking donkeys or mules in the heat of the summer. Souped up with amplifiers vendors use to wake up sleeping housewives at midday, these carts save time and effort for people wanting watermelons but don’t want to make a trip to the grocery store. These carts, just like tirteras, are occasionally decorated to taste, but not so cute when the donkey needs to make a pit stop in the middle of the street.

Diesel Tankers

Harsher than the donkey cart amplifiers are the horns of the diesel vendors when they honk at midday. Their tankers roam about in the winter to provide diesel to residents for their central heaters. Some people living on the 8th or 9th floors require a special extension to get their fuel; vendors use a hoist to lift the tank up to the balcony and drag it to the attic where it is attached to the pump. The hoist saves time and effort, as household-heater diesel tanks usually hold about 60 litres or more and manually lifting them is no small task. Vendors would only cover one third of the clients’ houses in a 10-hour day without this new accessory. Still, the life of a diesel tank vendor doesn’t require a gym membership!

Be careful rounding the corners on a motorized bicycle like this one in Damascus, Syria. Delivery boys use these to get you your goods in record time. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Paul Keller

Delivery Buggies and Bicycles

Here in Syria, we don’t have Domino’s Pizza delivery service, but we have lovely buggies that bring meals on wheels much more efficiently than a sedan. As for shop delivery bicycles, most are thin-wheeled Indian-made machines that handle corners horribly (but that doesn’t seem to slow down the drivers!). When I was a kid, I tried driving one and crashed on a sharp turn. According to a documentary I saw, these are the second-most-dangerous means of transport possible, beaten only by cars without brakes in Vietnam.

Taxis

Taxis in Syria are painted the universal egg-yolk yellow-orange. Here’s the best tip I can give you: As a tourist, always tell the driver to turn on his meter before taking off. Never accept a ride in a taxi with no meter turned on or you will end up paying 250 Syrian pounds (about US$5) instead of the local price of 40 or 60 pounds (US$1). It’s always a good idea to tip the driver a little bit, especially after a long trip.

A bus races a camel along a rural highway in Syria. Both buses and camels are viable modes of transport from one city to another. Photo courtesy of Flickr/loufi

Trains, Boats and Camels

We have inter-city trains from Aleppo to Damascus and vice versa, and trains connecting other cities as well. I personally suggest that you opt first for a bus between cities for three reasons. First, our trains are not the high-speed bullet variety, so buses will actually get you from A to B faster. Secondly, local trains don’t operate on a 24/7 basis like taxis and buses. Third reason: noise. Trust me on this one.

We have a nice selection of boats in coastal Lattakia and Tartous. You can even find jet skiers!

As for the camels in the Palmyran desert, they are nicknamed safinat al sahraa, or in Arabic ‘the boat of the desert,’ due to their endurance over long distances. Hop aboard for the ride of your life.

Are you planning your own Syrian adventure? Contact Ednan and his team at Ghazal Tours, the whl.travel local connection in Aleppo and Damascus.

Kata also has much more of a village feel to it, with an enjoyable evening atmosphere. Nightlife in the area is fairly low-key, but the bright lights of Patong are only 20 minutes up the coast if you feel like dancing the night away.

The long-tail boat featured here is a super-sized version of what is now becoming a traditional means of water transport in Thailand. Long-tail boats are named for their unusual appearance, with the propeller mounted on a drive shaft that extends several metres beyond the rear of the boat, giving it a ‘long-tailed’ appearance.

It’s a great way to travel from bay to bay around Phuket or to explore the island from a different vantage point. Long-tail boats can be found off most beaches and can be hired by the hour or for tours. Smaller version of these boats ply the canals and waterways throughout Southeast Asia, a common mode of transport.

The town lies huddled at the foot of Mt Lovcen, at the farthest end of the Bay of Kotor and, although palms and olives surround the Old Town, the high mountains casting their shadows give it a mysterious and memorable look.

A small marina of the city of Kotor is based just in front of the main city gates (where the vegetable and fish markets are held) and the mighty 20-metre ramparts that shield Kotor’s Old Town from the waterfront. Kotor marina attracts many big cruisers and luxurious yachts from early spring until the end of autumn. This is the view of the marina in the evening hours. The photo is taken from the terraces of Galion Restaurant, a famous fish restaurant with the splendid view of the town.

The River Ganges is the spiritual lifeline of Varanasi; Hindus strongly believe that the river cleanses one’s soul and every day droves of people religiously bathe in the holy water. An evening beside the Ganges ghats is a next-level spiritual experience because the most famous Ganga Aarti is performed at many ghats.

The picture here is of an evening Aarti performance at Dasaswamedh Ghat. While many ghats performs this grand prayer ceremony, the one held at Dasaswamedh Ghat is one of the largest and best known. Here, five young, extremely talented Hindu priests perform the highly choreographed ritual with super agility and dexterity. It is so popular that people start arriving at the ghat as early as 5pm.

The prayers, choirs, ringing of bells, the incense smoke – all of it together builds the moment so strongly that it is hard not to be filled with awe.

Exploring this market offers the opportunity to be a part of the true tradition and lifestyle of the people living in Marsaxlokk. Fishing is the primary occupation of the village’s residents and Malta’s fish supplies are met mainly by what is caught here.

The luzzu boats, pictured above, are perfect examples of an untouched Marsaxlokk tradition. They are painted in the bright colours of red, yellow, blue and green. The colours of the boats have remained unchanged for generations as a result of the superstitions and beliefs of the fisherman who use them. In addition, each boat bears a pair of eyes called the ‘Eyes of Osiris’. This symbol is believed to protect the boats from any ill fate.

These bright boats sail near the harbour area everyday. They look striking and are a huge draw for visitors when exploring the area.

Regardless of the mystique about this massive cascade, however, and not unlike places like Manaus and the Amazon, the Iguassu Falls are much more cherished by international travellers than by locals; like me, many Brazilians often prefer travel abroad to exploring destinations closer to home.

Although I had once planned a trip to Foz do Iguassu, the city on the Brazilian side of the falls, it never actually happened because I lost my flight. It was also never really a priority destination for me. I’ve been to the Niagara Falls in the USA already, I thought, so why should I bother? Silly me…

From a high platform, a 55-metre rappel is enhanced by the lush vegetation and beautiful views on the Brazilian side of the Iguassu Falls. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

Then, when my close friend Wallace, who also works in tourism, said he was planning to visit the Iguassu Falls, I thought it was a good chance to take a few days off, as well as work on a project with Fabio Wandscheer, the whl.travel local partner in Foz do Iguassu. It was even a great opportunity to buy some cheap goods, since Foz do Iguassu borders Ciudad del Este, a Paraguayan shopping paradise for Brazilians.

Foz do Iguassu, Our Adventure Base

On our arrival at the Foz do Iguassu International Airport, Wallace and I were welcomed by Fabio, our local expert. After a good evening with him during which we caught up on business-related topics, we had a noble night of sleep at the Green House Hostel, one of the new businesses Fabio runs in Foz.

For the next two days, we went shopping in Paraguay. Although this adventure alone could justify a trip to Foz do Iguassu, I could not say the trip was complete at that point.

View The Iguassu Falls and vicinity in Brazil and Argentina in a larger map

After all, we were still looking forward to the next two days, which would include visits the falls – one to the Brazilian side and the other to the Argentinean side. Since the falls are right on the border of Brazil and Argentina, there is access to the falls from both sides.

The Brazilian Side: Adventure in Iguaçu National Park

Our guide, Fabio, had warned us that it was going to be a long and action-packed day. That was a thought that flashed through my mind mind when I reached the lofty platform from which I would go rappelling, or abseiling. I had goose bumps as a rush of adrenalin girpped me. From up there, I could barely see Wallace on the ground 55 metres below, trying to take some photos. The views of the falls, however, were incredible.

After the thrilling descent, as we headed straight to the rafting area, I was sorry I hadn’t eaten more at breakfast. It was a short-lived thought, though, as there and ready were the team of Macuco Safari, waiting to coach us about the ride ahead.

The author (centre) with his colleagues, Wallace and Fabio, take a moment out of the raft to pose with the Iguassu Falls in the background. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

Due to the high water level, the Paraná River was calm. So, after bouncing on a few rapids at the beginning of our trip, we took care of the fun ourselves. Everyone plunged into the water, where we stayed for most of the remaining trip.

At the end, our finish was also the staging point for the Great Adventure Boat Ride, the most famous tour of the park. Now in a larger and tougher boat, Fabio, Wallace and I took seats right at the front. We were already soaked, so we didn’t care that we could get even more wet. We zoomed up the river all the way to the cataract known as the Three Musketeers falls. Innocently, I thought we were just going to get really close; what a surprise when the boat’s captain drove us right into the falls. An explosion of water hit me and I was completely reinvigorated.

Next on our activity-packed itinerary was a nine-kilometre forest hike. As it was already a little past noon when we reached the start of the Poço Preto Trail, we grabbed a few snacks and bottles of water, met the guide and got ready. During the long hike I could feel the nature around us with all of my senses.

The trail culminated at the upper part of the Iguassu River, where we did a quick kayak run through calm surroundings that reminded us more of Pantanal than of the turbulent falls further downriver. It was a relaxing way to finish our day!

The Argentinean Side: Iguazú National Park

Due to the rivalry between Brazil and Argentina experienced mainly through football, I was a bit sceptical that the Argentinean side of the Falls could compare with what we had seen during our incredible first day in Brazil. We nevertheless took a morning ride, this time with a group of people that included Colombians and Americans.

Argentina's Iguazú National Park was created in 1934 and contains one of the world's greatest natural wonders: the Iguazu Falls. Surrounded by lively fauna and flora, it is a perfect place for nature lovers. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

As we crossed the border and headed toward Puerto Iguazú and its national park, our guide ran through the itinerary and the driver put us at ease by entertaining us with some Argentine anecdotes.

From the bus we transferred to a train – the fastest way to get to the falls – that took us to the base point from which to see the Devil’s Throat, the most powerful and famous cataract of the park. Even as we crossed a long suspended footbridge that connects visitors to the observation point, we were clueless about what lay ahead. Then, the calm river below started to become rougher, a dazzling spray of water appeared above the tree tops and the mass of people suddenly became denser. We sped up to keep pace with our anxiety.

The fame of these waters was entirely justified; the power of the falls in front of us made us breathless. As I turned my camera on to shoot some photos and videos, I realised that the impressive volume and massive sound was practically impossible to capture.

For the rest of the day, we wandered across the long and characteristic footbridges of the park, getting really close to other impressive falls, one after another. I started to understand why people from the other side of the planet travel to have this same experience. And now I can guarantee: a journey to the Iguassu Falls is not complete if you don’t visit both sides.

Thinking about a visit to the Iguassu Falls, from the Brazilian side or the Argentinian side? Check out Falls Vision Receptivo’s careful selection of Iguassu Falls hotels and let their local experts take you to the falls and surrounding nature with their special Iguassu Falls tours.

Every year, over 15 million tourists stream through Amsterdam eager to experience the historic city, the world-famous attractions and, of course, the legal activities that are not so legal elsewhere. However, finding the right way to experience Amsterdam can be overwhelming, given the 37,000 beds, 6,800 historical buildings, 51 museums, 141 art galleries and six windmills from which to choose.

Navigating Amsterdam's historical canals is the perfect way to take in the city's layers of centuries of architecture and cultural heritage. Photo courtesy of European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism

Fortunately, for the earth-conscious, there is now a way to take in all that green Amsterdam has to offer and give something back as well. This is only fitting in the city that was, in 2010, nominated for the European Green Capital Award, and where bicycles outnumber people to such an extent that more transfers are done daily on two wheels than on four. And that’s not all. The tourism sector in Amsterdam has been uniquely creative in developing fun, completely new, sustainable concepts to provide visitors with fashionably green vacations.

Of course, regardless of one’s green leanings, there really is a lot to do and see in Amsterdam. In fact, Amsterdam has the most museums of any city in the world per square metre, including the world-famous Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum.

Green Hotels Amsterdam

The whl.travel local connection in Amsterdam is the European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism (ECEAT) . Established in 1993, ECEAT is a non-governmental organisation, focusing on organic farming and the environment in relation to tourism. But sustainable tourism can also be practiced in cities.  Speaking on behalf of ECEAT, Liina Org says, “With our new whl.travel Green Hotels Amsterdam website we want to improve the position of sustainable accommodations in Amsterdam and the surrounding area. We focus on sustainable and characteristic products as we want our visitors not only to be in Amsterdam, we want them to feel it! “

Amsterdam is well stocked with accommodation for all tastes and budgets, from luxury hotels to small homestays. One of the more curious ways to experience the “real” Amsterdam is to stay at one of the houseboats. The MS Luctor is an original 100-year-old cargo vessel that has been converted into a comfortable and high-class boarding house equipped with solar panels on the deck.

Going Local

Green Amsterdam is one of the most bicycle-friendly large cities in the world. Bikes are the cheapest, fastest and most convenient way of getting around town. Hires are one option, but joining a bike tour to explore the city centre and surroundings suburbs helps with orientation. Paddle boats and silent electric boats can also be used to explore the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage canal belt. Kayakers may wish to take a wetlands safari, just 15 minutes from Amsterdam centre, that takes in century-old authentic small villages and helps to support the Dutch Nature Protection Service.

Tired of touring? Take a rest in one of Amsterdam's many parks in one of the city's eight districts, each with a different flavour and style according to the borough that houses it. Photo courtesy of European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism

Gastronomes will find that the best way to get acquainted with and sample local edibles is to stroll through one of Amsterdam’s many outdoor markets, like the Saturday organic farmers’ market at the Noordermarkt in Jordaan district, where local agriculturalists come to the city to sell their organic products. Recommended treats include the different kind of cheeses, raw herring and freshly baked stroopwaffels (syrup waffles).

There is also a multitude of eating establishments that serve biological food prepared with organic and locally grown ingredients. There are even organic snackbars (fast-food joints) in Amsterdam, like the Natuurlijk Smullen (Natural Feast), that specialise in home-made French fries and other typical Dutch treats.

For a good brew, one of the local favourites is the terrace of Natuurlijk Smullen organic brewery in East Amsterdam. Free brewery tours are offered on Saturdays.

So whether it be relaxing in a yoga teacher’s guest house, exploring the city like a local – by pedal power rather than motor propulsion – navigating the endless waterways and canals or sampling some local yet world-famous cuisine, there’s enough in Amsterdam to keep anyone busy. Thanks to ECEAT, there’s a way to do it responsibly too.

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IN DUTCH / HET NEDERLANDS

Elk jaar bezoeken meer dan vijftien miljoen toeristen Amsterdam. Zij komen voor de historische stad, de wereldberoemde musea en natuurlijk voor een aantal hier legale activiteiten die elders niet zo legaal zijn. Met een keuze uit 37.000 bedden, 6.800 historische gebouwen, 51 musea, 141 galeries en 6 windmolens is het kiezen van de juiste wijze van beleven van Amsterdam niet altijd makkelijk.

In a city where bikes outnumber people, Amsterdam has well earned the title of the greenest European city. Photo courtesy of European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism

Nu blijkt er een manier te zijn om alles wat Amsterdam te bieden heeft tot u te nemen en tegelijk iets terug te geven. Vorig jaar was Amsterdam genomineerd voor de European Green Capital Award. In Amsterdam zijn meer fietsen dan mensen en er worden dagelijks meer afstanden met de fiets dan met de auto gereden. Maar dat is niet alles. De toeristische sector in Amsterdam is erg creatief geweest in het bedenken van leuke, volledig nieuwe, duurzame concepten in het aanbieden van moderne, groene vakanties aan toeristen.

Natuurlijk, ongeacht hoe “groen” je bent, is er een heleboel dat je kunt doen en zien in Amsterdam. Van alle steden in de wereld heeft Amsterdam het grootste aantal musea per vierkante meter, zoals onder meer het befaamde Rijksmuseum en het Van Gogh Museum.

Green Hotels Amsterdam

De lokale partner van whl.travel in Amsterdam is het Europees Centrum voor Eco Agro Toerisme (ECEAT). ECEAT is een non-gouvernementele organisatie, opgericht in 1993, met een focus op biologische landbouw en milieu in relatie tot toerisme. Maar duurzaam toerisme kan ook in de stad worden toegepast. Liina Org zegt: “Met de Green Hotels Amsterdam-website willen we de positie van duurzame accommodaties in Amsterdam en omgeving verbeteren. Wij richten ons op duurzame en karakteristieke producten omdat we willen dat onze bezoekers niet alleen in Amsterdam verblijven, maar ook Amsterdam voelen! ”

Amsterdam biedt accommodaties voor alle smaken en budgetten van luxe hotels tot gastenkamers bij mensen thuis. Een van de beste manieren om het “echte” Amsterdam te ervaren, is om te verblijven op een van de woonboten. De MS Luctor is een origineel, honderd jaar oud vrachtschip dat is omgebouwd tot een comfortabel pension met veel klasse. Het is tevens uitgerust met zonnepanelen op het dek.

Going Local

Amsterdam is een van de meest fietsvriendelijke grote steden in de wereld. Het is de goedkoopste, snelste en meest comfortabele manier om de stad te verkennen. U kunt een fiets huren of deelnemen aan een fietstocht door het stadscentrum of de omgeving van Amsterdam. U kunt ook een waterfiets of zelfs een stille elektrische boot huren om de prachtige grachtengordel te verkennen, die niet voor niets op de UNESCO World Heritage-lijst staat.

One great way to experience Dutch culture is to escape just outside of Amsterdam, where local people still produce everything from wooden shoes to organic cheese the same way they did hundreds of years ago. Photo courtesy of European Centre for Eco Agro Tourism

En als u eenmaal genoeg gezien en gedaan heeft in de stad, kunt u denken aan een Wetlands Safari. Op slechts 15 minuten afstand van het centrum van Amsterdam kunt u eeuwenoude authentieke kleine dorpjes per kajak ontdekken en helpen om de Nederlandse natuurorganisaties te ondersteunen.

De beste manier om de lokale specialiteiten te kunnen proeven, is door over een van de vele Amsterdamse markten te wandelen. Zorg ervoor dat u van de verschillende soorten kazen proeft en rauwe haring en versgebakken stroopwafels uitprobeert. Elke zaterdag is er een biologische boerenmarkt  op de Noordermarkt in de gezellige buurt de Jordaan. Hier verkopen boeren uit de omgeving hun biologisch geteelde producten.

Amsterdam biedt tal van plaatsen die biologisch eten serveren, vaak met lokaal geteelde ingrediënten. Er zijn zelfs biologische snackbars, zoals Natuurlijk Smullen. Hier kunt u de huisgemaakte frites en andere typisch Nederlandse hapjes uitproberen.

Een van de lokale favorieten is het terras van de biologische Brouwerij ‘t IJ in Oost-Amsterdam. Hier kunt u het lokaal gebrouwen bier proeven en elke zaterdag kunt u een gratis rondleiding door de brouwerij krijgen.

Dus of u nu gaat relaxen in de gastenkamers bij een yogaleraar thuis, de stad verkennen op twee wielen ipv. op vier, over de eindeloze waterwegen en kanalen gaat navigeren of de lokale maar wereldberoemde keuken gaat proeven, in Amsterdam is genoeg te beleven om u bezig te houden, en dankzij ECEAT, ook nog eens duurzaam.

Having some family visitors who wanted to see it forced my hand though and off we went. We left early (around 6am) and were there by 8am – stopping along the way at a small coconut factory at a local house, where coconuts could be seen being made into pretty much everything from homemade sweets to bedside lamps.

A breakfast of noodle soup supplied on the canal-side from a woman floating by in her boat was delicious; we were happy to have gotten up early to avoid most of the crowds. We hired a small paddle boat (from which this photo was taken) and drifted slowly in between the stalls and boats.

As expected, by 10am the place had more farangs (foreigners) than locals, and with the locals already looking to pack up and go home, we bought as much fresh fruit as we could carry and headed off.

While the Damneon Saduak Floating Market is on the well-worn tourist path, it is still worth a visit. Some tips to improve your visit:

• Get there early, before 8am. By 9-10am it fills up with tourists and by 11am the market is shutting down.
• Don’t expect a ‘traditional market’ – this is a fun market to visit, but it has developed into a major tourist attraction.
• There is a lot of tacky souvenirs for sale – it is an experience to visit and explore – but not a place for high quality handicrafts.
• Try the food stalls – the local food is great!

In 1984, a team from the Institute of Nautical Archaeology (INA) discovered the remains of a 3,400-year-old Bronze-Age boat, the oldest wreck yet unearthed. In 2006, the 360 Derece (Degree) Research Group, in collaboration with the INA, produced an exact replica of the original ancient boat, which was then sailed to the Chicken Bay dive site close to Kaş and deliberately sunk.

The wreck, which has begun the slow but steady process of being reclaimed by the ocean, is now home to a wide variety of marine life and provides an incomparable experience for divers – there is simply no other location like this in the world! The cool silence of the ocean depths coupled with the ancient lines and curves of this sturdy craft give the impression of stepping back in time.

A tour of the site is an excellent way to spend several hours, before resurfacing into the bright, warm sunshine and heading back to shore to recharge your batteries with an evening meal as the sun slips below the waves.