This tasty snack comes in a variety of different flavours and it seems as if each neighbourhood has its signature man'oushe. It can be baked in a brick oven for a slightly plumper bread or rolled out thin and cooked on top of a domed griddle called a saj. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Nsaum75

The All-Day Breakfast

For a country overflowing with street food outlets from the humble pushcart to the more upmarket corner shop, it’s a tough call to crown one particular delicacy king of the cheap eats in Lebanon. If there must be one clear winner, however, it has to be the humble man’oushe, a freshly baked unleavened bread spread liberally with za’atar (an aromatic mix of thyme, sumac spice, sesame seeds and olive oil), which could almost be thought of as a tasty Lebanese take on pizza. It’s served folded, which means it’s perfect for eating on the hoof and makes an ideal breakfast treat on the way to work. The nation’s favourite snack has a number of variations, including a cheese topping using jibneh arabieh (similar to feta) or a ground beef topping called lahmeh. Throw in a few chopped tomatoes and olives and you’ve got yourself one heck of a tasty snack!

The quintessential Maltese snack, pastizzi are pastries baked with either a ricotta-cheese or mushy-pea filling. Found throughout the islands, they are one of the cheapest bites you can get. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Chattacha

Baked Goodness

The small archipelago of Malta, situated slap-bang in the middle of the Mediterranean, is famed for its delicious pastizzi. These delectable diamond-shaped puff-pastries are filled with ricotta cheese or mashed peas, and can be bought from small fast-food shops called pastizzeriji, which open especially early on Sunday mornings to serve late-night revellers headed home from a night out. The two varieties can easily be told apart as the more popular pastizzi tal-irkotta (ricotta pastry) has a hole in it to show off the delicious filling, while the pastizzi tal-pizelli (pea pastry) does not. Lovers of vernacular may be interested to note that the word pastizzi (singular pastizz) is also a derogatory term for female genitalia in colloquial Maltese, probably due to the pastry’s suggestive shape. Despite the connotation, the pastries are a source of national pride. No visit to Malta is complete without a cheap and tasty pastizz or two.

Vegetarians Beware

The Southern African nation of Namibia is well known as a land of meat lovers for whom not just any meat will do. Only artery-clogging red meat satisfies this nation’s carnivorous tendencies. Beef is big business here and barbecues, much like the braai in neighbouring South Africa, can be found in every town.

The Namibian version is known as kapana and consists of strips of beef and fat grilled to perfection on open stoves, generously seasoned with chilli, salt or peri-peri and served wrapped in newspaper. These tasty morsels can also be sandwiched in fried doughnut-type buns, fittingly called ‘fat cakes.’ The barbecuing is traditionally men’s work, but women are often on hand to help serve up the fat cakes. The perfectly prepared kapana has a strong, smoky barbecue flavour, with the meat succulent and juicy and the fat crisp on the outside. The bustling markets of Katutura township in the capital city of Windhoek are the best places to find this tasty soul food.

A Little Something for the Health Conscious

If you think the promise of a calorie-induced heart attack is a prerequisite to qualify as authentic street food, think again. The hot and sticky Indonesian climate means the refreshing street eat known as rujak (Malay for “mixture”) is a popular choice for snackers. It’s a simple concoction consisting of a cup of mixed fresh fruit or vegetables topped with rujak sauce and peanuts. The sweet and sour rujak sauce is similar to Chinese hoisin and is made from water, gula jawa (palm sugar), asem jawa (tamarind), ground peanuts, terasi (shrimp paste), salt and chilli.

Found in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore (where it is known as rojak), rujak consists of sliced fruit or vegetables that are then covered in a sweet, sour and spicy dressing and topped off with chopped peanuts. There are innumerable variations of the ingredients and sauces, so no two rujaks need ever be the same! Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Gunkarta Gunawan Kartapranata

Popular ingredients in a typical fruit rujak include jambu air (water apple), pineapple, mango, jicama (turnip), cucumber, kedondong (hog plum) and raw ubi jalar (sweet potato). The tartness of the fruit is nicely offset by the sweetness of the sauce, but those preferring a saltier flavour can ask for some sambal garam powder (salt and ground red chilli) on the side. The mix of sweet, sour and spicy flavours is said to be particularly popular among pregnant women, which may explain why a special fruit rujak is served during traditional baby shower ceremonies called Tujuh bulanan (meaning “seventh month”) on the island of Java. Locals believe if the rujak tastes sweeter the baby will be a girl and if spicier it signifies a boy.

Doughy, greasy and stodgy, Chilean sopaipillas are the ultimate comfort food for those cold, rainy days. The steaming bowl of sopaipilla pasada shown here in the background is the sweet version, served in a delicious syrup called chancaca. There are plenty of savoury alternatives too if you don't have a sweet tooth. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Warko2006

And for the Not So Health Conscious

The popular fast food known as sopaipilla can be found all over Latin America, but the version in Chile packs a little extra something. Here, the fried circles of dough are made with cooked squash (a Chilean staple) and this versatile comfort food can be either sweet or savoury. A variation of the snack is found on the island of Chiloé, where potatoes (sweet or plain) are used instead of squash. Sopaipilla pasada is served in chancaca, a warm cane sugar syrup flavoured with orange peel and cinnamon. It’s a perfect winter warmer that is also traditionally eaten on rainy afternoons with a cup of tea as a carb-laden pick-me-up. The savoury alternatives substitute chancaca for pebre, a sauce made from tomatoes, chopped onion, oil, salt, and chopped coriander or parsley. Jalepeño sauces are also popular for a bit of kick. Sopaipilla vendors can be found throughout the country plying the streets with their pushcarts and this simple dish is also often served in restaurants to whet the appetite.

I am married to a typical Namibian male. His idea of a decent meal includes a large hunk of steak with not a single green substance in sight! Fifteen years ago, when I first arrived in Namibia, I did not really understand the importance meat has in the lives of most Namibians (although it is probably worth mentioning that I was a vegetarian); however, it soon became apparent that Namibia, at least in those days, was not familiar with the term ‘vegetarian’.

Guests at a Herero wedding in Ovitoto, approximately 70km northeast of Okahandja. Herero culture places a lot of importance on cattle. This picture was taken

One of my first outings to a restaurant was an indication of things to come. Having ordered some kind of vegetarian salad, I discovered it had bits of bacon in it. When I queried this, the waitress and chef seemed confused. In their minds, bacon, particularly small bits of it, did not constitute meat, and the chef had only added them to make the salad edible. In the same vein, a local Baster guide that we often use for camping safaris found it very hard to grasp the idea that vegetarians didn’t eat chicken (or pork, or possibly even fish). To most Namibians, meat just means red meat. Yet it goes even beyond this. On another social occasion, we were out with a Namibian friend who politely, but disdainfully, asked the waitress to please remove the “rabbit food” that had been presented as a side dish with her steak.

To Be or Not to Be a Vegetarian

For the next year and a half I battled to remain vegetarian. Apparently it was the best time of my husband’s life as it meant that when we went out he could order two meat dishes and I just scraped off the (soggy, overcooked) vegetables. A win-win situation from his point of view! However, during this period I started to reassess my stance on meat.

To Namibian meat eaters, these animals at an Etosha watering hole are a smorgasbord of dinner opportunities!

For a start, Namibia is a desert country and has very limited water resources. Growing most vegetables is not commercially viable and so the ones sold here are transported a great distance from South Africa. On the other hand, game such as springbok, kudu and gemsbok have adapted to this harsh terrain and live in perfect harmony with the land. On the whole they live happy lives, roaming freely in the veldt, until a possibly early demise at the hands of a local farmer. I therefore concluded that game meat is probably the most environmentally friendly food available in Namibia and although it might be hard for some people to eat the ‘cute’ animals they’ve just seen on a game drive, they really are extremely tasty!

As you might have guessed, my resolve as a vegetarian crumbled and I am now unable to go on a long journey without biltong. I also like my steaks to be rare!

The Braai

No commentary on the importance of meat in Namibia can go without mentioning the time-honoured tradition of the braai. If you’re not familiar with the term, it translates roughly as ‘barbeque’ and yet, in English, it seems to diminish the true essence of this most favourite of southern African social rituals.

A typical braai, this one at a local school swimming event at Friedenau Dam, approximately 40km from Windhoek, Namibia

The weekend is not complete without a braai, which generally follows certain unwritten customs. For a start, the men cook the meat while the women prepare other unimportant items, such as the salad or vegetables. The former takes part around the outside fire with discussion centred around rugby or some other sport; the latter is based in the kitchen. There is a head braaier, who is in charge of making the fire and cooking the meat. The other men are there in a purely supporting role as fireside companions making sure the head chef is supplied with ample lubrication and entertaining conversation. The basic rule is ‘don’t mess with another man’s fire’.

Having said this, Namibia has progressed a lot from when I first arrived. Nowadays vegetarians are much more widely understood and much better catered for. In fact it has been ages since I have heard of a chef trying to sneak bits of meat into a salad or veggie dish to improve it! But most Namibians still do not really know why vegetarians exist. If invited to a braai or social gathering, they’ll have to understand that steak and boerewors are the main attraction, not the potato salad or mealies.

In fact, when Archbishop Desmond Tutu was once asked what vegetarians were supposed to do on National Braai Day (24 September in South Arica), he replied “They can stand and watch”.

A Namibian Foodie Lexicon

• Biltong – Air-cured meat similar to jerky
• Boerewors – Long meaty sausages
• Droëwors – Air-cured sausage
• Mealies – Corn on the cob. Great on a braai. (See, we do have vegetables!)
• Pap/ Mahango – Cornmeal or millet porridge, often served with potjiekos or a dish with a gravy
• Potjie – A three-legged black pot that looks like a witch’s cauldron
• Potjiekos – A dish cooked in a potjie, generally for a long time over coals
• Sosatie – Meat on a stick / shish kebab

Just one of many stunning views along the Panorama Route

Winding northeast from the spectacular Drakensburg Mountains of Mpumalanga to the northeastern end of the Great Escarpment, the Panorama Route takes in some of Africa’s (and the world’s) most dramatic scenery. It is also the gateway to Kruger National Park, where you will find the Big 5, endless spectacular views, age-old traditions and cultures. It’s all part of an incredible adventure that will awaken the child within you. So buckle up as we take a quick journey through the highlights.

Real Highs and Brilliant Light

A single day is far too short for all there is to see on the Panorama Route, but if that’s all the time you have, you will not be disappointed!

Along the most famous and fabulous stretch – the 33km of Blyde River Canyon, the world’s third largest – don’t miss the Three Rondavels (giant spiral rock formations) and the Bourke’s Luck Potholes, both a glimpse at nature’s creative forces. Millions of years of swirling air and water have carved and shaped the rocks here resulting in unbelievable formations.

Whitewater rafting in Blyde River Canyon

Also noteworthy is God’s Window, from which there are incomparable views of the Lowveld, a vast blanket of plain almost a kilometre below.

Save your hunger for a stop at Harrie’s Pancakes in Graskop, or the traditional art and candy shops in Pilgrim’s Rest. Both towns impart a sense of the old gold-mining culture that once thrived here.

Even if you’re not usually impressed by waterfalls, check out those on the way to Sabie. Not only are they beautiful, but, when the weather’s right, you can take a moment to dangle your feet, or even swim, in the cool mountain pools. Some are a bit off the beaten track, so pack a good pair of shoes and a picnic basket.

The picturesque Maria Shires waterfall

End your day at the Shangana Cultural Village, where you can taste traditional food, participate in song and dance and experience the history and ways of the Shangaan people.

Outdoor Thrills

If life is your playground, or you don’t just want to be a bystander, dedicate as much time as possible to the many adventures on offer along the Panorama Route, from mild to wild all in one location.

Start off your day in a hot-air balloon and enjoy breathtaking views of the Sabie River Valley.

The more ambitious will thrill to an quad-biking experience that overnights at the private and secluded Matumi Log Cabin on the bubbling Mac Mac River. A typical South African braai under starry skies rounds out a busy day. This experience is ideal for backpackers, nature lovers and birders. The latter will especially appreciate sightings of the Purple-crested Turaco and the elusive Nerina Trojan.

Another special experience is a visit to the Elephant Sanctuary, where you can walk hand-in-trunk with Kasper and Kitso.

Getting It Right

A mother and daughter at the Shangana Cultural Village

* When embarking on any part of the Panorama Route, be sure to get an early start.

* It is advisable to choose a clear day in winter, as misty or cloudy weather, which is common in summer, will prevent you from enjoying the amazing views.

*  Even if it’s warm when you begin, take along some warm clothing, as the temperature changes with the different elevations.

* Get hold of a good map.

* If possible, hire an air-conditioned car. Having your own wheels will mean that you can spend as much time at the various sites as you want.

* The Panorama Route area is busy with thousands of children orphaned by HIV and Aids. Think of supporting and empowering these needy children by spending time at or making a contribution to Sizabantwana.

.

For more information about the Panorama Route, including accommodations, tours, activities and lots of insider tips, contact your local whl.travel connection: the team from Induna Adventures at www.panorama-tours.travel.