Spread across south-central Brazil and covering an area larger than the island of Great Britain, the Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland. Running through the state of Mato Grosso, North Pantanal comprises a delicate ecosystem that benefits from dual seasons of flooding and droughts. The intense rains that deluge the region annually give way to a dry season during which grasslands thrive and support over 70 species of mammals.

Seasonal floods of the North Pantanal region of Brazil make for lush, green vegetation that supports over 70 species of mammals and hundreds of different kinds of birds and fish. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

The local human residents of the region fit into the all-embracing ecosystem as well. Cattle ranchers graze their stock on the abundance of green grass that shoots up during the dry season and the annual floods support one of the largest fishing areas in the world. In fact, in addition to nature appreciation, fishing is a big draw for visitors interested in several types of ‘big game’ fish amongst the 262 species inhabiting the region’s freshwater basins.

But fishing is just one of many outdoor activities in North Pantanal. Numerous tours through the wetlands provide a chance to observe native species, such as cayman alligators, jaguars and parrots, in the wild, while resource centres like the Refugio Ecolologico Caiman guide guests to a better understanding of the preservation and conservation processes underway to bolster and protect the region’s incredible biodiversity. The distinctly blue hyacinth macaw and famous jaguar are just two species that the centre has made great strides in helping to sustain.

A wide variety of hotels and lodgings in North Pantanal facilitate overnighting in the midst of one of Brazil’s foremost ecological wonders. The hosts at many lodges understand the potential impact that increased tourism can have in the region and have endeavoured to structure their hotels around sustainable practices. Pousada Rio Claro, for example, partners with local craftsmen and artisans, and bridges the divide between local residents and guests by developing events, lectures and workshops centred on Pantanal culture.

José Namen, the whl.travel local connection in North Pantanal, is no stranger to the process of integrating tourist infrastructure into nature’s delicate balance in North Pantanal. A Pantanal-born native, Namen understands the complexity of the interwoven systems – both those within the wetlands themselves and those astride the wetlands and the people who live there.

In North Pantanal, Brazil, a group of horseback riders moves through an area of blossoming Ipê trees during their short, seasonal blooming. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

As Namen states, “Lucas, my business partner, and I come from a family of traditional farmers in the Pantanal. Therefore, we learned to respect and love the impressive fauna and the astonishing landscapes of this amazing ecosystem, as well as the people who live here and their strong culture.”

For instance, on the one hand, he has advocated for regulating angling practices to protect certain species from overfishing and extinction; on the other hand, he understands that fishing is a central way of life for many local residents and that making changes to one part of the system can have unintended effects on another. Armed with this nuanced approach, he advocates for educational programs and the development of alternative sources of income for families that rely on the Pantanal for survival.

“We are excited about our partnership with whl.travel because we share the same view that tourism should help to protect the environment and promote the local people and their culture through the creation of jobs and the injection of resources into the local economy,” continues Namen. “We are sure that whl.travel will help us in marketing the Pantanal to the global market as an important touristic destination, and that we’ll succeed in achieving our goals.”

Pantanal Norte joins an ever-growing list of successful whl.travel destinations in Brazil, including South Pantanal.

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EM PORTUGUÊS / IN PORTUGUESE:

Localizado no centro-oeste brasileiro, cobrindo uma área maior que a Inglaterra, o pantanal é a maior área de terras alagadas do mundo. Percorrendo o estado do Mato Grosso, o Pantanal Norte compreende um delicado ecossistema que se modifica em função de duas temporadas ou estações, a época da cheia e alagamentos e a época de seca ou estiagem. A chuva intensa que cai anualmente e inunda sua vasta área, abre caminho para a temporada seca onde as áreas verdes prosperam e dão suporte para mais de 70 espécies de mamíferos.

A group of caymen alligators, native to the North Pantanal region of Brazil, gather at the water's edge. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

As pessoas que moram na região adaptam suas vidas da maneira que o ecossistema da região exige e levam a vida de acordo com o que ele proporciona. Criadores de gado criam seus rebanhos na abundancia de pastagens que crescem durante a temporada seca que sucede a cheia anual devida a época das chuvas intensas. Chuvas que dão suporte para uma das áreas de maior ocorrência de peixes do mundo, adicionando a apreciação da natureza, a pesca, um grande atrativo para visitantes interessados nas várias espécies de grandes peixes dentre as 262 espécies que ocorrem na região.

A pesca de peixes grandes é somente uma das varias atividades no Pantanal Norte. Diferentes passeios pelas terras alagadas proporcionam a chance de conhecer espécies nativas como os jacarés, onças pintadas, araras azuis e outros animais em seu habitat natural. Ao mesmo tempo, centros de recursos como o Refugio Ecológico Caiman mostram aos turistas um melhor entendimento do processo de preservação e conservação em andamento para proteção da incrível biodiversidade da região. A Rara Arara Azul e a famosa Onça Pintada são apenas duas das espécies que o centro trabalha para preservar e, neste sentido, já fez grandes avanços.

A ampla variedade de hotéis e alojamentos no Pantanal Norte facilita o pernoite em meio a uma das maiores maravilhas ecológicas brasileiras. Os anfitriões de muitas hospedagens sabem do grande impacto que o turismo tem na região e vem se esforçando para estruturar seus hotéis baseados em praticas sustentáveis. A Pousada Rio Claro, por exemplo, parceiros de artesões locais estreitam o relacionamento entre nativos da região e turistas, desenvolvendo eventos, palestras e oficinas centrados na cultura Pantaneira.

José Namen, a conexão da WHL no Pantanal Norte não é estranho no processo de integração da infraestrutura turística com a delicada natureza do Pantanal Norte. Um nativo pantaneiro, Namen entende a complexidade dos sistemas interligados, tanto os das áreas alagáveis, quanto os montados pelas pessoas que ali vivem.

The Ipê tree is iconic of the Pantanal of Brazil. Blossoms may be bright pink, yellow or white. Flourishing in September, the colours only last for about week, seeming to explode rather than blossom. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

Como Namen fala, “Lucas, meu parceiro neste negocio e eu viemos de uma tradicional família de fazendeiros do Pantanal. Com isso, nós aprendemos a respeitar e a amar a fauna e as impressionantes paisagens deste surpreendente ecossistema, juntamente com seu povo nativo e sua forte cultura.”

Como exemplo, por um lado ele defende a regulamentação da pratica da pesca esportiva para a proteção de certas espécies da pesca excessiva. Por outro lado, ele entende que a pesca é o principal meio de vida para muitos dos moradores locais e que, intercedendo em uma parte do sistema, pode causar importantes consequências não intencionais em outra. Armado com essa diferenciada abordagem, ele defende programas educacionais para desenvolvimento de meios alternativos de fontes de renda para as famílias que dependem do pantanal para sobreviver.

“Estamos animados com a parceria com a whl.travel pois compartilhamos a mesma crença de que o turismo deve ajudar a preservar o meio ambiente e promover os moradores da região e sua cultura através da criação de empregos e da injeção de recursos na economia local,” completa Namen. “ Temos certeza de que a whl.travel nos ajudará a promover o Pantanal para o mercado mundial como um importante destino turístico e que com isso vamos conseguir alcançar nossos objetivos.”

O Pantanal Norte se junta a uma crescente lista de destinos brasileiros bem sucedidos da whl.travel, incluindo Pantanal Sul.

How is biodiversity measured? Conservation International, an organisation that “empowers societies to responsibly and sustainably care for nature, our global biodiversity, for the well-being of humanity” has established a way to identify the world’s biodiversity hotspots, or areas that have especially high numbers of endemic (native) species, based largely on two factors: the number of plant species endemic to the area (must be greater than 1,500 species) and the acute need to protect the area from habitat loss beyond an already measured 70 percent of the original.

In these fragile areas, the acute priority placed on conservation means that visitors and travellers must handle with care. Unchecked tourism is part of the rampant human encroachment on nature that threatens the planets’ bio-diverse ecosystems and its health. When practiced responsibly, however, tourism can be a driving force behind conservation efforts.

We encourage travellers to explore these biological treasure troves, but to do so responsibly. Some of the best ways to do this are on guided tours with local tourism professionals committed to conservation principles and making as little impact as possible. These guided tours also deliver high levels of learning, adventure and fun!

We are pleased to offer our five favourite ways to experience biodiversity hotspots around the globe.

A mirror image of the healthy corals of the Solomon Islands. Keep them healthy with a scuba dive tour that cares. Photo courtesy of Tina Aydon

Scuba Diving the Solomon Islands

The Solomon Islands enjoy healthy reefs that represent a small part of the Coral Triangle biodiversity hotspot in the southwest Pacific. Divers visiting the town of Gizo on Ghizo Island, which is famous for its submarine seascapes, discover a variety of healthy, warm-water reefs teeming with fish that have not been loved to death. At Njari Island, off Gizo, as many as 279 fish species have been counted on a single dive. With Dive Gizo, the whl.travel local connection in the Solomon Islands, daily dive tours are limited to eight passengers at each site to ensure there is no great impact on the marine life. The dives, including some wrecks, suit both novices and masters, and promise great photo ops.

As part of a biodiversity conservation initiative in the area, a partnership between WWF-SI (World Wildlife Fund for Nature Solomon Islands) and Dive Gizo was launched in 2003 to protect eight reef sites around Gizo from careless anchorage; the easy solution was to deploy marine buoys. Dive Gizo is also a member of the Gizo Marine Conservation Area (GMCA) Management Committee, which has established nine marine protected areas covering an area of approximately 43 square kilometres. As well, the Dive Gizo diving staff belongs to the marine biological team that collects baseline and ongoing coral monitoring data for the Global Coral Reef Monitoring Network.

The Amazon Tree Climb in Manaus Brazil will get your own limbs working and your adrenaline pumping all way up to the canopy layer. Photo credit Government of the state of Amazon, Brazil

Amazon Tree Climbing in Manaus, Brazil

As the largest tropical rainforest system in the world, the Amazon is a place of unparalleled biodiversity. In fact, more than one third of all species in the world live in the Amazon Rainforest. Where is one of the best places to get a sense of this almost preternatural environment? The city of Manaus, in the north region of Brazil serves a magical gateway into a unique world.

Given the surroundings, Manaus is headquarters to a number of rainforest tour activities, from kayaking and river cruises to canopy tours. Now, even Amazon tree-climbing is an option! Outfitted with climbing gear, visitors can hoist themselves up through the branches and up to the jungle canopy the way researchers do to collect data. Even better, with Selenetur Travel, the whl.travel local connection in Manaus, concern for the rainforest is top priority. Tours groups can be no larger than six so no harm befalls the trees, and bilingual instructors inform about the ecosystem and the surrounding wildlife. This blissful encounter with nature leaves climbers with a renewed impulse to conserve it!

Carlos Augusto, one of the trip coordinators, says, “Our trees are previously inspected and the climb sites are carefully chosen. We opt for primary forest areas, which gives us a better chance of observing the wildlife in its natural habitat. Our wish is to share the magic and beauty of the Amazon forest with our guests, so that they may understand and respect this fragile ecosystem.”

In Luang Namtha's Nam Ha National Protected Area in Laos, award-winning conservation-minded ecotourism projects are underway. See it through the mists of the area's refreshing waterfalls. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Waterfall Trekking in Luang Namtha, Laos

Luang Namtha Province lies in the northwest of Laos, sharing borders with both China and Myanmar. Around 85 percent of its 9,325 square kilometres is mountainous and approximately 50 percent is covered by forests, making for landscape with high levels of biodiversity. Home to more than 20 ethnic minority groups, 37 large animal species, 297 bird species and 60 fish species, Luang Namtha has been recognised as having enormous potential for ecotourism.

The 2,230-square-kilometre Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA) is a primary tourism attraction in Luang Namtha. Lying at the intersection of the Indochina and Himalayan bioregions, the bio-diverse area is a protected area of international significance. The importance of the Nam Ha NPA is in relation to tourism in Luang Namtha – primarily as a result of a major ecotourism project undertaken by UNESCO and the Lao National Tourism Authority called the UNESCO-NTA Lao Nam Ha Ecotourism Project.

Designed to create an economically viable national model for locally managed community-based culture and nature tourism, the project has demonstrated that properly planned ecotourism can be used as a tool for heritage conservation and rural development, involve local communities in tourism management and operations, and raise substantial public sector revenue. In 2001, the UNESCO-NTA Lao Nam Ha Ecotourism Project won a United Nations Development Programme Award in 2001 in addition to a British Airways’ Tourism for Tomorrow commendation.

One refreshing way to explore the Nam Ha NPA rainforest is a one-day waterfall trek that leaves from the small town of Vieng Phouka, located two hours by car south of Luang Namtha town.

On an early morning in the first week of April, a solitary canoe makes its way along what is normally a forest road in Soomaa National Park, Estonia. Photo courtesy of Aivar Ruukel.

Canoeing the Fifth Season Floods in Estonia

Soomaa National Park, which surrounds the Estonian ‘summer capital’ of Pärnu is a naturally quirky place, principally because it protects some of the world’s rarest ecosystems – peat bogs and wetlands (the word soomaa means ‘land of bogs’). Estonia is a wet country with almost 25 percent of the territory consisting of different kinds of wetlands, arguably the most important of which are the ancient and disappearing peat bogs. Their ecological importance has been distinguished as, among other accolades, a CORINE biotope area and one of Europe’s most valuable wilderness areas certified by PAN Parks, and turned it into an European ecotourism hotspot.

Another quirk about the Soomaa region is its ‘fifth-season’ spring floods. Each year, usually in April, spring melt-off raises water levels by about five metres, submerging everything – forest floors, meadows, fields, roads and even village houses – for two to three weeks during which a boat is just about the only way to get around. This is not a catastrophe but a much-anticipated season and a popular time for canoe trips into the national park. Some tours navigate the swamped forests – even right up to the doors of houses – using haabjas, or traditional hand-carved dugout canoes made from huge aspen logs.

From the relaxing rhythm of a canoe, Fifth Season observers can take a good look at some of the wetlands flora and fauna. Although not officially designated as a ‘biodiversity hotspot’ by Conservation International, the Kuresoo bog is ranked particularly high in species diversity. Soomaa is also a natural home for eagles, black storks and other rare birds, as well for carnivores such as wolf, lynx and brown bear.

Sri Lanka's Sinharaja Forest Reserve boasts the highest concentration of endemic species in a country fabled for its endemism. Photo courtesy of Ethan Gelber

Hiking Through Primary Rainforests in Sri Lanka

The gorgeous rainforests of Sri Lanka are on the list of the planet’s top 10 biodiversity hotspots most at risk of destruction. Sadly, at the top of the list of Sri Lankan rainforests most at risk is Sinharaja (meaning ‘lion king’) Forest Reserve, the largest Gondwanan rainforest in South Asia. It is relatively small – barely more than 110 square kilometres – but if taken with contiguous forest reserves, it represents the largest single block (about 475 square kilometres) of wet-zone primary forest in the country. Naturally, it is the green heart of Sri Lanka’s unique and enormously important biodiversity, boasting the highest concentration of endemic species in a country fabled for its endemism.

Preserved from loggers by virtue of its difficult terrain and finally put beyond their axes in only 1977, Sinharaja is now also one of Sri Lanka’s eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Today, the greatest threat to Sinharaja is the unchecked devastation of the ecosystem it shares with surrounding woodlands, some officially counted in a semi-protected forest buffer zone. Bewilderingly, in the 15 years from 1990 to 2005, despite legal protections, 900 square kilometres, or approximately 35%, of the 1990 total forest coverage within 20 kilometres of the park was destroyed. Along with them went who-knows-what in the way of biodiversity.

The best way to appreciate what’s left and continue to call attention to its irreplaceable bounty is simply to visit. Paths within the protected area can only be covered on foot and in the company of a guide. While tours can be arranged in advance, qualified and knowledgeable guides are available for hire (for an affordable fixed price) at the Kudawa and Deniyaya entry points.

Sri Lanka is peppered liberally with other brilliant ecotourism indulgences across a wide variety of ecosystems. For example, why not try a boat ride on the mangrove-fringed Madu River, home to at least 60 species of bird?

Rather than dwell on the much-reported disaster, the WHL Group hopes you will join the global effort to help reach everyone distress. Below you will find an assortment of programs through which you can make a show of solidarity.

Fortunately, in a highly developed country like Japan, the resources and readiness to respond to the immediate crisis are in place; the country’s government has already begun a massive mobilisation to forestall any further calamity and eventually repair the aftermath.

Given this, we agree with statements from some global relief organisations that now is not the time to saddle Japan’s leaders with the burden of coordinating external aid, no matter how well meaning it may be. (In any case, the world has other regions of extreme need but without the infrastructure of a place like Japan.)

Therefore, if you are able to give, we encourage you to focus your generosity on (1) relief groups already on the ground and with a long history of connection to Japan, and (2) local organisations that will find themselves targeting support for vulnerable individuals, groups and communities that my slip through the cracks of national emergency programs.

The enormity of the challenges in Japan are such that the inevitable limitations of human and material endurance will lead inevitably (perhaps sooner than expected) to need. In anticipation of that, please do not hesitate to donate now.

In addition to what follows, Google Crisis Response has created its 2011 Japanese Earthquake and Tsuanmi page, which is especially useful for anyone in search of “information regarding the disaster and damage with realtime updates.”

Where and How to Give

+ American Red Cross (for the Japanese Red Cross Society in Japanese, look here)
+ Authors for Japan
+ Crowdrise
+ Doctors Without Borders
+ Global Giving
+ International Medical Corps
+ Japan Ecolodge Association
+ Japan Platform
+ Mercy Corps
+ Network for Good
+ Oxfam America
+ Salvation Army
+ Save the Children
+ Unicef
+ World Vision

In the US, text donations (added to your monthly cell/mobile phone bills) are possible through the following services:
+ American Red Cross: text ‘REDCROSS’ to 90999 to donate $10
+ Global Giving: text ‘JAPAN’ to 50555 to donate $10
+ International Medical Corps: text ‘MED’ to 80888 to donate $10
+ Salvation Army: text ‘JAPAN’ or ‘QUAKE’ to 80888 to donate $10
+ Save the Children: text ‘JAPAN’ or ‘TSUNAMI’ to 20222 to donate $10
+ World Vision: text ’4JAPAN’ to 20222 to donate $10

In 1974, the flooding Brisbane River of Queensland, Australia, peaked at 5.4 metres. It has been etched in local memory as the worst inundation the city and surrounding areas faced in the 20th century. The river winds down from the hills to Moreton Bay (on the coast) through many towns and tributaries and past most of Brisbane‘s suburbs, landmarks and its central downtown area. So when it floods, the effect can be catastrophic and widely felt.

The floods in Queensland, Australia, have claimed 16 lives so far and left more the 28,750 homes without power. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Martin Howard

Although the Brisbane River peaked just below the 1974 level on 13 January 2011, the damage has been far more targic and it is now the new point of reference for flood devastation. Not only Brisbane, but the entire state of Queensland, is now attempting to recover from what many are calling the worst natural disaster in Australia’s history. Although high waters in the Brisbane area have affected the most people, the residents of towns and communities all over the state have battled this crippling flood, and the consequences will be long lasting.

Here are some fast facts:
+ Queensland covers 1.8 million square kilometres, three-quarters of which are currently underwater.
+ Over 30,000 homes around Brisbane were hit by the flood waters.
+ Over 100,000 homes are without power.
+ Sixteen people have died, a number expected to rise as 60 are still missing.
+ The damage bill will run into the billions of dollars.
+ The national export industry has been severely impacted.
+ Most of the year’s agricultural crop, which feeds much of the nation, has been lost.

An Inland Tsunami

This event has been coming for months. With record rainfall over the last four months, the Wivenhoe Dam (built after the 1974 flood) was at 190% capacity and water was overflowing back into the river system. The sad irony is that, until recently, the area had been facing a terrible drought and the dam had been empty, with water use restrictions for residents.

The constant precipitation culminated in a final week of torrential rain in early January. I had never seen or experienced anything like it before. Worse, it fell in the worst possible places, pouring onto saturated earth that sent it coursing the only place it could go: down. As a result, the town of Toowoomba, 125 kilometres west of Brisbane, faced an unspeakable and unprecedented natural disaster – an inland tsunami – as a 5- to 10-metre-high wall of water unexpectedly made its way through the town and surrounding communities.

This is where most of the heartbreaking deaths occurred. There were stories of babies ripped from their mothers’ arms by the water, people washed clean out of their houses and cars, picked up like they were toys, carried kilometres away. The images are truly beyond belief and gave an indication of what was coming downstream in Brisbane. Downtown Brisbane and all surrounding low-lying areas had to be evacuated; and people rushed to get out what they could from businesses and homes.

Making a Difference

The sad fact is that most Australian insurance policies don’t cover floods from river systems, so this initial heartbreak is set to get much worse for many more Queenslanders. Assistance is therefore vitally needed for those hardest hit.

The recent flooding in Australia, as seen in Yeronga, Queensland, a suburb of Brisbane. Photo courtesy of Flickr/David McKelvey

Anyone in Queensland who can assist is encouraged to contribute equipment, skills or time. Register at www.volunteeringqld.org.au/home/. Anyone anywhere around the world can donate to help those affected through the Australian Red Cross or the Queensland Government. In Australia, donations are also being accepted at most banks and supermarkets. Those affected will be very grateful.

Despite the overwhelming tragedy, there have been positives as outstanding as donors’ generosity. People around the world know of the Aussie reputation for being laid back and easygoing. Well, some people here have lost everything, but they are still able to say “Well what can you do? It’s nature. Time to start rebuilding.” Although Brisbane will take its time to reflect, grieve and recover, the unique Queensland character is shining through. Neighbours and strangers have been helping each other move or save whatever they can, bonds have been built that will be needed to restore this city to what it was, and through it all we will do what Queenslanders do best – get on with the job and look after our mates.

Flooding in Gailes, Queensland, Australia. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Martin Howard

A Note from Tourism Australia

There’s no question that travellers should stay clear of Brisbane and other areas. However, much of Queensland is open for busy and eager to welcome visitors. The following is a message from Tourism Australia, the national government agency.

“The current disaster has impacted particular parts of Queensland, including Brisbane and its surrounding regions, Rockhampton and regional communities in the central and southern Queensland area. However, the tourism regions of Whitsundays, Mackay, Townsville, Cairns, Port Douglas, Tropical North Queensland and the Gold Coast are all accessible and, in many cases, completely unaffected by the flooding.

The Sunshine Coast, Fraser Coast and Bundaberg regions are open, although there are some accessibility issues due to localised road closures, but most tourism operators are open for business. Brisbane Airport is open and still the major gateway to Queensland. All airports in Queensland except Rockhampton Airport are open.”

The destruction of flood waters in Faizabad village in Swat. Photo by Imran Khan, courtesy of Oxfam International/Flickr

“It is miserable,” said Sadia Kalsoom, tour manager of Walji’s, a large tour operators based in Islamabad. “Millions of people are without a home, the animals have died, crops have been destroyed. Some of the most beautiful valleys in our country have also collapsed, throwing another hard blow to the already suffering tourism industry.”

The people in the flood-stricken areas were already desperately impoverished, surviving at the most basic of living standards. The full extent of the new damage has not yet been fully realised, but the mass destruction has left those who had little with absolutely nothing. Currently, there is a desperate need for funds to build temporary shelters and toilets, and to provide clean drinking water to prevent a public health catastrophe. The locals are in dire need of medical care and basic food items, but aid on this scale will require substantial public support.

The Red Cross provides an update on the situation in Pakistan

How You Can Help

The people of Pakistan need our help. Oxfam is on the ground assisting 600,000 people in the hardest-hit areas: trucking in water and installing water tanks, building emergency toilets, providing sanitation kits and hygiene supplies to reduce the threat of disease. They are also distributing cooked meals and setting up work programs for locals to rebuild their towns and establish an income. Officials are hoping to raise US$6 million for their immediate and long-term response to the crisis; you can donate by visiting the Oxfam website.

Other relief organisations working within the country include Action Against Hunger, for whom the priority is on containing the spread of water-borne disease; the American Red Cross, which has committed US$1 million to the relief effort; and UNICEF, which has so far set up nine medical camps to provide treatment to flood victims. For a complete list of the aid organizations currently operating within Pakistan, click here.

The Sacred Valley of Peru, where green rolling hills meet the snow-capped Andes, is a land of breathtaking vistas. No wonder Pachamama's Path wishes to preserve the traditions of this beautiful land.

Pachamama’s Path

Tourism may have brought new opportunities to the Sacred Valley, but as more money and influence flow through it, the ancient customs and culture of the Quechua people are gradually being lost to the press of globalisation and outside religious views, languages and experimental government politics.

To counteract this loss of cultural identity, the Vizcarra family, proprietors of the local Pisac Inn in the Sacred Valley, organised a noble initiative called Pachamama’s Path. The vision is “to sustain permanent, multidisciplinary activities oriented toward children, youth, and adults of traditional communities, towns and cities, especially in the Sacred Valley area of Cusco, Peru, through workshops, special events, cultural exchanges and other integral educational activities that reinforce, promote and protect the values and knowledge of Andean culture – and in this way, empower the endangered traditional way of life.”

Children in Sacred Valley learn about an ancestral coca leaf ceremony. The coca leaf has been part of life in the Andes since before anyone can remember and is used for everything from tea to medicine to religion.

The Vizcarras – Roman is Peruvian and Fielding Wood hails from Lexington, Kentucky – met in Italy but settled in the highlands of Peru to raise their children. The couple has run the Pisac Inn for the last 17 years and shares a deep respect for the local culture. By advocating for Quechua rights, the Vizcarras hope to share the validity and encourage a resurgence in the practice of the traditional belief systems of the Quechua people.

Educating about Culture

One well-established means of preserving culture is through education, so Pachamama’s Path went to work opening a pioneering elementary school at the base of the Pisac archaeological site. The Kusi Kawsay Andean School Project, which was granted legal status by the Peruvian Ministry of Education, has been functioning as a school since March 2009.

The school’s mission is to provide an outstanding curriculum while honouring the endangered traditional lifestyle of the local people. Now, instead of being forced to leave their villages to receive a conventional education – through which students are made to believe that to be ‘successful’ is to be a professional – Kusi Kawsay students are taught that an education can be had as part of a traditional way of life. Relying on the humanistic Waldorf approach to education, the school seeks to extend the reach of the nationalised educational system by respecting local highland culture and cultivating united communities of strong individuals with high self-esteem for their ancestry.

The Kusi Kawsay schoolhouse is situated at the base of the Pisac archaeological site overlooking the picturesque Sacred Valley in the highlands of Peru.

The Kusi Kawsay Andean School Project has been able to accommodate 65 students (kindergarten through sixth grade) for the 2010 school year. Four schoolhouses have been completed and two more are under construction, as is a new facility for the kindergarten. The success of this pilot program has been an inspiration throughout Peru and Kusi Kawsay’s teachers are writing educational materials for other schools wishing to incorporate lessons on the Andean way of life.

Pachamama’s Path has also established four cultural centres as spaces in which to host local celebrations and promote the practice of Quechua beliefs. The Vizcarras hope that other cultural centre projects will be initiated throughout Peru to cultivate traditional knowledge while fostering a greater sense of community.

After teaching about their traditional Andean culture, teachers let the children play outdoors to loosen up before returning to the classroom.

Off to a Wet Start in 2010

Many exciting projects are underway, but 2010 got off to a rocky start after intense rains, flooding and mudslides devastated the Sacred Valley. The Vizcarras survived a terrifying flash flood that destroyed the village of Taray along with their own home. Two cultural centres suffered critical damage and have been trying to hold finances together after Machu Picchu was closed for weeks and tourism came to a complete standstill. The higher grades of the Kusi Kawsay Andean School Project, usually previously held at the Taray Cultural Centre, have also had to move into a provisional classroom in another school. Though the flooding is no longer front-page news for the papers, the people of this region are still dealing daily with its consequences.

By visiting the highlands of Peru and booking accommodation with the Pisac Inn, guests are supporting the Pachamama’s Path foundation and contributing to the preservation of the Quechua culture in the Sacred Valley. For other accommodation options, tours and local tips, check in with Chaska Tours, the whl.travel local connection in the Sacred Valley of the Incas in Peru.

Flood waters fill the Avenida Arriaga of Funchal, Madeira, the day after heavy rains provoked deadly mudslides

Drenching Rain

Madeira usually enjoys mild weather all year round, but this winter brought unusually heavy precipitation, beginning as more or less steady rain starting back in October. As a measure, the rainfall of 426mm recorded during the first 22 days of February is equivalent to approximately 70% of the total annual average.

With so much water in the ground, on 20 February, the soaked mountains could retain it no longer and finally gave out. The water drainage lines that lead across Funchal to the sea were unable to channel the vast quantities of water, rock and dirt that came coursing down the mountains carrying away everything in its path.

The result was a sea of mud in the heart of Funchal and Ribeira Brava, houses destroyed, shops flooded, people evacuated, streets packed with rubble and mud.

Click image to enlarge: Mud and earth choke the Avenida do Mar and Marina of Funchal

Click image to enlarge: Three days later, the Avendia do Mar of Funchal is almost clear of debris

Quick Response

There was an immediate response by firemen, the army and the police. After the shock and following ‘this can’t be happening!’ feeling, an information network formed immediately via Twitter and Facebook, carrying regular updates about people missing, people found alive and people found too late. Helicopters and more manpower flew in to aid in search and rescue, and the distribution of food and supplies to isolated villages.

By the next day, cleaning and recovery operations were well underway and involve around 2,000 people from the public and private sectors, the army and volunteers.

Two days later, on Monday, as we crossed the very heart of Funchal to reach our office, there was no water or mud whatsoever. Soon after, essential services, including electricity and water, were restored, as was mobile phone reception and Internet on most of the island. We could almost wonder if it had all been a terrible nightmare, but the noise of heavy machinery and ongoing cleaning proof of the reality. (See videos of the cleanup effort.)

Click image to enlarge: The day after the mudslides, the people of Funchal don't let the mess in Rua Bom Jesus deter them

Click image to enlarge: Three days later in Rue Bom Jesus, work crews have quickly and effectively made it look like nothing ever happened

Facing the Aftermath

The bitter toll is now: 42 dead, 18 missing and 18 injured still in the hospital. Six hundred people were dislodged, of which 193 families have been allocated temporary shelter.

We are mourning our dead, taking care of those who lost everything and, above all, working hard to bet back on our feet.

It was all but natural for us, as travel agents, to expect cancellations or zero bookings. We were wrong. Although we did have a couple of cancellations, we continue to receive bookings for individuals and groups alike.

After all, the hotels were unaffected and are fully operational, as are the airport, the harbour and the main tourist areas. And, of course, the beauty of the land no less spectacular.

Click image to enlarge: Boots are best on the Avenida Arriaga of Funchal on the day after the rains

Click image to enlarge: Three days later, the Avenida Arriaga is as clear and clean

Support Comes from Far and Wide

The support we have received from all around the world touches our hearts deeply and give us strength.

What can you do to help? You can contribute through the official ‘Conta Solidariedade com as vítimas da Madeira’ relief fund maintained by BANIF – International Bank of Funchal (IBAN PT 50003800011986711677151 and SWIFT code BNLFPTPL).

You can also spread the word that the worst of our misfortunate has already passed. We are working hard and Madeira continues to be an amazing destination to visit and experience. We will be right here waiting for you.

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For more information about Madeira, including hotels, tours, activities and the kinds of tips you can only get from a local, please contact Madeira Intertours, your whl.travel local connection at www.madeira-hotels.travel.

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Flooding and rainfall damaged local homes, business and roads in the Sacred Valley near Cusco, Peru

The result caught everyone by surprise. On 23 January, floods and mudslides destroyed rail and road access to Aguas Calientes, also known as Machupicchu town, stranding more than 2,000 people in the mountains to which travellers flock for a visit of Machu Picchu, the famous pre-Columbian ‘Lost City of the Incas’ and one of South America’s most famous ruins. Due to the high water, the bridge at the entrance to Pisac also collapsed, cutting off access for many to the Sacred Valley, where thousands of homes, several bridges and as many as 40,000 acres of farmland have been destroyed.

“Fifteen years ago was the last time the water level in the rivers reached dangerous levels,” continued Scholten, “but nothing compared to the situation now.”

Massive Airlift

As soon as the weather allowed it, the Peruvian government began the slow process of airlifting visitors trapped for several days to Ollantaytambo and Cusco. By 6pm local time on 27 January, an announcement from the Ministry of Tourism declared that a total 1,137 people had been evacuated by helicopter and more than 1,200 kilograms of food and drink had been carried in.

A handful of Peruvian helicopters, joined by six from the US, transported people to safety a few at a time, prompting scrummages every time a new one arrived, particularly early in the process when many people were camping in open fields. Fortunately, most of the remaining people have now been flown to safety, including most of those who had set off on multi-day hikes before the mudslides occurred.

Risky Enterprise

“It’s stopped raining like it was before, so the water level has dropped spectacularly,” said Scholten. “However, as February is known for its rain – we call it Febrero loco (crazy February) – we’re still not sure what to expect.”

Flood waters have swept away the train tracks between Cusco and Aguas Calientes, near Machu Picchu in southern Peru (photo courtesy of Living in Peru - www.livinginperu.com)

With the Inca Trail itself closed in February, the railroad is usually the only means of reaching Aguas Calientes, the staging point for further hiking, bus and helicopter travel to the ruins. The recent word from PeruRail, however, is that an experienced team of rail engineers has already begun extensive repair work on the tracks between the hydroelectric power station and Machupicchu. Estimates are the this sector will be operational in the next two weeks.

Work has also commenced on clearing and repairing the tracks between Piscacucho (kilometre 82) and Machupicchu town (kilometre 110), part of the rail line used by tourist trains from Cusco. Work along this segment of track will is scheduled to take seven to eight weeks, dependent on weather and water flow in the Vilcanota River.

This will of course have a tough economic aftereffect. ”Right now people are thinking of alternatives to the Inca Trail,” declared Scholten.

Finding Help in a Time of Need

For many, the Aguas Calientes railroad station and carriages became temporary shelter. Anyone stranded was made welcome and every effort was made to keep the facilities running.

The numbers of people relying on railroad generosity may have been added to by reports of price gouging for hotels, food and water price gouging, as local owners may have taken advantage of the captive audience.

This too may have been fed by somewhat reduced resources. “A major problem comes from 15 years during which it didn’t rain like this,” expressed Scholten. “Everybody started building their houses, hotels and restaurant dangerously close to the river. We think lots of places were destroyed by it.”

“If you plan to travel to Peru and have space in your luggage for old clothes or shoes, please do think of bringing them along,” added Pieter Roos, also of Chaska Tours. “You can leave them at the Chaska Tours office, where the team will manage distribution to those in need.”

To learn more about accommodation, tours and activities and much more in Cusco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley – including interesting travel alternatives to areas that remain accessible – contact Chaska Tours, your whl.travel local connection in Cusco.

No matter the season - even frozen and blanketed in snow - the bogs of Estonia's Soomaa National Park are a magical landscape begging for exploration

To Estonian and Finnish tourists, the small town of Pärnu is known primarily for spa resorts and sandy white beaches along the Gulf of Riga, benefits not lost on the many famous people who live there, including Estonians and people from neighbouring countries, like Russian classical violinist David Oistrakh. The town’s appeal is further boosted by its thriving arts and culture scene, just one locus of which is the Pärnu City Gallery, which has organised more than 300 exhibitions since its doors opened in 1995. Further support for the arts comes through Pärnu Artists’ House, the Museum of New Art, Endla Theatre and numerous music and film festivals held throughout the year.

In contrast to Pärnu are the stillness and austerity of Soomaa National Park, a 390-square-kilometre network of rivers, bogs, wetlands, dunes, flooded meadows and swamp forests in western Estonia. The best time of year to visit Soomaa (meaning ‘land of bogs’ in Estonian) is during what locals call the ‘fifth season’, a springtime phenomenon during which water levels can rise up to five meters higher than normal and flood an area of 175 square kilometres. Villagers from nearby Tõramaa and Riisa look forward to this Soomaa signature event with great anticipation, navigating the flooded landscape by modern boat and by haabjas, traditional dugout Estonian canoes.

During Soomaa's 'fifth season', when the area is flooded, waterways are alive with haabjas, traditional Estonian dugout canoes used by locals for everyday navigation

Making a haabja is no simple feat. After harvesting the right tree – typically an aspen free of decay – its centre is hollowed out using a handheld adze. This is followed by a shaping process that bends the water-soaked sides of the dugout into shape and then holds them in place with support sticks. Lastly, a coat of pine tar is applied. Two or three weeks are required even for the most skilled craftsmen to complete a haabja.

During the fifth season, visitors can engage in a number of unique activities made possible by this fleeting and truly Estonian season, including learning how to build a haabja and paddling one through the swamplands to observe bears, lynx and several varieties of near-extinct migratory birds, as well as unique flora that prefers Soomaa’s boggy and alluvial soil. Anyone who thought wildlife viewing was only possible in Africa can even set out on an Estonian beaver safari for a glimpse of the Sõber Kober, or European beaver, in its native habitat.

To create a haabja's desired shape, the hewn wood is moistened and manipulated into proper form. Heat from fire, combined with supportive arches and braces, stabilises everything

If haabjas and beavers don’t satisfy, maybe a trek through Soomaa’s bogs will. First everyone straps on special bog shoes, which resemble snowshoes (or a tennis racket). Their special shape keeps hikers from sinking into the soft peat and moss of Soomaa’s swampy fairytale landscape. Normally inaccessible areas, like Kuresoo, a lake filled over centuries by accumulating marsh material, suddenly become  prime destination. Real snowshoes are also ideal footwear for winter treks across the frozen wetlands.