The Transcarpathia region of southwest Ukraine is a unique area, a tourism pearl sometimes called "Little Switzerland." Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Tetyana

Today, this grand state beckons travellers to explore its intricate church architecture and delicate frescos, bustling cities and authentic rural villages, and gorgeous natural resources. Along the way, you will discover that there are plenty of cultural myths and stories, the kinds about unique local archetypal characters that will capture your imagination and keep you coming back for more local travel experiences in Ukraine.

Here are just three stories with which to whet your appetites.

The Babushkas of Ukraine’s Cities

Babushka (in Russian) or babusia (in Ukrainian), as Ukrainians call their elderly ladies, are an inevitable sight in any city or town in Ukraine, no matter where you go. Stroll along the cobbled sidewalks in Lviv and you will see them, chatting and singing folk songs in front of the impressive Opera Theatre. Hop on a train headed east and you will be greeted by their curious eyes and voices selling homegrown apples and freshly baked buns with jam or poppy seeds. Head further east and you will find them sitting on every street bench, letting the world pass by in the greenery of Kharkiv’s parks, or selling everything from sunflower seeds to flower bouquets in Donetsk.

Kyiv (Kiev) is the capital city of Ukraine. Photo courtesy of IloveUkraine/Marynka

The cultural phenomenon of babusia in Ukraine is directly tied to the country’s troubled history. The 20th century saw an epic tug of war waged between five empires parceling up the country, two world wars fought on Ukrainian territory, tragic famine and a repressive communist regime. Together, these afflictions laid waste to most of Ukraine’s men, leaving behind the now-familiar crowds of babushkas. It is the stories of these women that make Ukraine so different from other cities in Central Europe.

But there is much more to Ukraine’s cities. Charming Lviv will leave you with the smell of freshly ground coffee, the memory of cosy cobblestone streets in a World Heritage-listed town centre and the air of jazz and classical music. Kyiv, the capital city of Ukraine, has the ruthless bustle of a teenager, but also wide promenades and maple trees, the sparkling golden domes of St. Sophia Cathedral and painful insights at the National Chernobyl Museum. Further east and south, grandiose Tsars’ palaces pop up along the Black Sea shore, Tatar mosques call for prayer, and statues of Lenin and Karl Marx crowd the streets of like Donetsk and Odessa.

The Hutsul highlanders of Ukraine are an ethno-cultural that group that still uses ages-old traditional practices and wears traditional clothing for major celebrations. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Traditional Hutsul Highlanders

Far from the urban scapes of Ukraine’s cities are traditional rural villages dotting the hills of the Carpathian Mountains. Lush pine forests and hard-to-access trails make it difficult for many travellers to explore the countryside of the Hutsuls, an ethno-cultural group of Ukrainian highlanders. Unlike more heavily explored areas in Central Europe, Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains remain largely cut off from the main tourist routes. You will find few marked walking trails; organised campsites are virtually non-existent. Most highland roads can only be reached via four-wheel-drive vehicles, on foot or by the horse cart. Few if any people speak English, and most still live by the centuries-old customs of their ancestors.

Hutsul society was traditionally based on forestry and logging, as well as cattle and sheep breeding. Right up until the present day, the month of May marks the Hutsul’s most exciting and colourful celebrations, a time when Hutsul shepherds leave their homes to spend three months herding flocks of sheep and producing delicious cheese known locally as brynza.

Stepping into a Hutsul house in Ukraine is a trip back in time. One of the joys is a taste of delicious homemade cheese known locally as 'brynza.' Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

Stepping into a rural Hutsul house is a trip back in time: you can sample delicious homemade bread, enjoy fresh water from deeply-dug wells, taste vegetables from the local fields and even try on colourful Hutsul clothes, still worn on major village celebrations.

Hutsul people are also famous for their incredible craftsmanship. At the local bazaar, you may find beautifully and intricately decorated eggs, ornate clothing and delicate woodwork.

Travellers lucky enough to spend a day or two in the Hutsul villages during traditional holiday celebrations will come away mesmerised by the whirlwind of colours, timeless customs, plentiful dinners and authentic culture carefully preserved on the outskirts of Europe.

The Carpathian Mountains of Ukraine in winter. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Vast Expanses of Nature

The Dnieper – Ukraine’s largest and Europe’s second-longest river – is bested only by the Danube. So great is its presence, ”Rare is the bird that flies to the middle of the Dnieper,” wrote Nicolai Gogol, a well-known Russian and Ukrainian writer. And while the Dnieper is definitely not the majestic waterway it was during Gogol’s lifetime, it remains an impressive and imposing sight, a symbol of Ukraine’s stunning natural landscapes.

Beyond the Dniepr, due to the sheer vastness of the territory, Ukraine can satisfy even the pickiest nature lover. Dense forests in the north hide countless rivers, marshes, lakes and swamps. In the west the gentle peaks of the Carpathian Mountains tower over the lush valleys, underground caves and World Heritage-listed beech forests boasting an abundance of wildlife. The south brings the warm sunshine, pebbled beaches and the grand Black Sea.

The Dniepr River is Ukraine's largest and Europe's second-longest river. Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Yevgen Pohulaylo

Whether you choose to go hiking in the Carpathian highlands, kayaking along the winding rivers or just enjoy sipping your morning coffee at the artsy cafes of Lviv, don’t forget to listen to the background stories of caring babusias, welcoming Hutsuls, cheerful women, ambitious youngsters, fearless Cossacks and countless others that form an eccentric and yet truthful-to-the-core mosaic of Ukraine, Europe’s largest unexplored frontier.

For an up-close glimpse of local Ukrainian culture – the unique combination of a proud and cosmopolitan European past, eclectic communist history and newly reasserted independence – try the wide range of Ukraine holiday packages available though Gunyah, a marketplace of authentic local experiences and tours for independent travellers.

If you want to see great apes in the wild, Sumatra’s rainforest is one of the most accessible places to do just that. Seeing orangutans in the wild, along with silver Thomas leaf monkeys, pig-tailed macaques, and a diverse range of birds like hornbills, will leave you with a renewed appreciation for the beauty and ingenuity of other species. However, you need to know how to visit them responsibly or you could introduce illnesses, since they share over 97 percent of our DNA. Less than 7,000 Sumatran orangutans live in the wild, and they’re an essential part of the rainforest ecosystem, helping seeds to germinate and even pruning the canopy.

Orangutan in Gunung Leuser, Sumatra. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society

The Gunung Leuser National Park is part of the Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an excellent spot for ape-watching and rainforest trekking. The Orangutan Information Centre (OIC), a local, grassroots nongovernmental organization, is working with a local guides association to certify guides in the popular destination of Bukit Lawang.

The OIC is an excellent source of information, and many of the guides are extremely knowledgeable and conscientious. However, because of the competition for visitors and tips, some guides do engage in unscrupulous practices like luring orangutans over with fruit, leaving fruit peels on the ground, or even letting visitors hug orangutans. Before you go into the forest, you’ll watch a short film on rainforest etiquette at the visitors’ center. Pay attention, and take responsibility for your own behavior. Better yet, download a copy of the park guidebook from the OIC website to prepare for your trip.

OIC Director Panut Hadisiswoyo, in Bukit Lawang, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society

In Bukit Lawang, you’ll have the chance to see orangutans close up, either at the feeding platform or slightly further into the rainforest. These orangutans have returned to the wild after a life in captivity. Taken from the wild by poachers at a young age, they are learning to live in the forest again after a rigorous rehabilitation process. They grow adept at building nests to sleep and lounge in, climbing nimbly through the canopy, and raising the next generation of wild orangutans. Like humans, they don’t know how to live in the wild by instinct alone. In the wild, they might spend eight years with their mother, learning how to live in the jungle. Learning these skills as adults takes an incredible amount of intelligence, patience, and perseverance, just as it would for a human.

Deeper in the jungle, you’ll likely see wild orangutans from afar. You’ll have the option to take a one-day, overnight, or multiday trek. Local guides are quite flexible in making arrangements. If planning a longer trek, talk with the staff at the visitors’ center to request a knowledgeable, conscientious guide.

For a quieter experience, visit the farther-flung village of Ketambe, about 8 hours by van from the main city of Medan. Staying in this little village bedecked with flowers and fruit trees will let you experience a less-trafficked part of the Gunung Leuser National Park, or “Leuser.” You’ll easily arrange van transportation on arrival; just ask your hotel staff for details. Call ahead to book a room in Ketambe. The Friendship Guesthouse offers rustic one-room bungalows with bathrooms for around U.S. $6 per night, and tasty curries for around $2. The welcoming staff will connect you with a local guide as well.

As in Bukit Lawang, take responsibility for your own behavior. The orangutans around Ketambe are wild, meaning they’ll keep their distance. One was said to have thrown a beehive at visitors, I was told, in what I felt sure was a cautionary tale. Talk about tool use, I thought.

Unfortunately, Leuser is threatened by the oil palm industry and other forms of encroachment, like much of Indonesia’s rainforests. In June 2011, it was placed on the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger for this reason. While there, I volunteered at a restoration site in the district of Langkat, North Sumatra. The OIC had reclaimed this illegally logged and farmed section of national forest in 2007. Since then, the all-local staff had been working to bring the rainforest back to life.

The old “hantu” – what we jokingly called the dead oil palms – still stood menacingly in some parts of the forest, gray-white fronds draping around their rotting trunks like a veil. But the vibrant growth of young rainforest trees was enveloping them, weaving them into the ecosystem as life carried on.

Restorasi house and plantation, Sumatra, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society.

One of the field assistants, Darjo, had carefully counted the bird species in the area – he’d spotted 83 so far. While collecting saplings in the deeper forest, the staff showed me huge elephant tracks. Very near the small house where we stayed, we saw the print of the rare golden cat.

Recently, after I’d arrived back in the States, the staff sent me an excited message: Orangutans were living at the site! They’d observed a male and pregnant female in the trees. The forest would take centuries, perhaps longer, to gain back the richness of the diversity it once had, but in the meantime, life will continue to thrive – as long as we let it.

More Information

Unesco World Heritage Centre: Danger listing for Indonesia’s Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra
Orangutan Information Centre: Project Reports
Ketambe: The Friendship Guesthouse & Restaurant
Orangutan Information Centre: OIC Restoration Site Performance Report, 2010-2011

Melanie Jae Martin writes about social/environmental issues and travel in the U.S. and abroad. To read more of her work, please visit The Story Grove.

This Buddha statue was added to the Wat Phou complex in Champasak, Laos, when it was converted to Theravada Bhuddism at the turn of the 14th century. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Adam63

Surrounding the temple complex is the province of Champasak, once a bustling region of enormous historical significance, both political and spiritual, as it was a seat of Khmer imperial power. Today, however, within a stone’s throw of Wat Phou, the little colonial town of Champasak, a quaint village with French colonial-era buildings, sees little intrusion from outsiders and displays none of the area’s immense 13th-century splendour. The ruins nevertheless continue to attract pilgrims and visitors, who marvel at the ancient stone sculptures and majestic carved boulders.

A Well-Deserved Status

In 2001, due to their unique cultural significance and beauty, the Wat Phou ruins were classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This status sparked renewed interest from the Lao government, and, since 2007, both the Lao Information Ministry and the French Cultural Ministry are engaged in archaeological studies, as well as renovation of both the structures and their decorative engravings.

A carved boulder depicting a crocodile was supposedly used to perform human sacrifices over a 1,000 years ago at the Wat Phou complex in Champasak, Laos, before the beginning of the Khmer Empire. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Mattun0211

The 390-square-kilometre complex – which includes the smaller Tao Tao, Nang Sida and Tomo temples – is exceptional testimony of the Khmer practice of Hinduism. In addition to the surviving stone-carved evidence of this dating back to the 6th century, the site itself perfectly portrays the Hindu vision of symbiosis between nature and the human soul, the temples being isolated within the confines of the forest.

This unique natural sanctity is enhanced by the alignment of the edifices at the lower and middle levels of the complex with the mountain summit. Nowadays, the bottom-to-top climb holds tremendous spiritual significance to Buddhists, who leave prayers and offerings on the way up and at the temple on top of the hill.

Divine Natural Manifestations

The great Phu Kao Mountain looms over the site and is believed to be one of the primary reasons for the establishment of Wat Phou. The mountain’s silhouette is said to resemble a linga, a universal symbol of Lord Shiva, and a river descending from the mountaintop symbolises the stream of life that flows from Lord Shiva’s head (mimicking the reasons for the reverence of Mount Kailash in Tibet). Fittingly, an abundance of tales and folklore illustrates the divine powers that lie in these grounds: the temple is said to have cured people made wretched by illnesses and brought prosperity to those who sought blessings.

Looking back towards the Mekong river from the top of the hill where the main Wat Phou sanctuary is located in Champasak, Laos. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/mattun0211

After so many centuries, the surrounding voracious forest seems to be reclaiming what once belonged to it; trees and dense vegetation encroach on and around the grounds of the site. The effect is incredible, full of unexpected beauty. “From a tourist perspective, you walk up the centuries-old stone staircase of Wat Phou, under the frangipani trees that push directly out of the rock, to emerge before panoramic views of the surrounding area,” recalls Lee Sheridan, General Manager of Teamworkz, the whl.travel local travel connection in Laos. “The bird’s-eye view from the top of the hill takes in the temple ruins below, which are assumed to be prayer rooms. Beyond this you have two lakes, beyond which the Mekong River drifts silently past.”

Definite Must-See in Laos

Wat Phou is best enjoyed over a few days, and the best bet for nearby accommodation is in the town of Champasak. That said, a day trip can also be made from Pakse, the largest city in southern Laos.

In addition to the site’s clear historical appeal, a trip to the ruins is essential for visitors with spiritual inclinations: the calm surroundings, the inherent mysticism and few visitors make it a great place to meditate. “Wat Phou is primarily a pilgrimage place,” explains Alexandre Tsuk, Managing Director of the Inthira Group, which manages the Inthira Hotel, an excellent-value lodging set in a former Chinese shop house in Champasak town. “You can buy flowers to offer at the temple and you don t have the impression you’re in a tourist site at all.”

This carved pediment on the south side of the sanctuary at Wat Phou in Champasak, Laos, shows Krishna killing Kamsa and dates from the site's early days as a Hindu site. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Markalexander100

After exploring the ancient ruins, a visit to the on-site museum reveals sculptures and relics removed from their original locations in the complex to avoid destruction from erosion.

Travellers with a few days to spare might enjoy arriving at the site after three tranquil days on a Mekong River boat cruise to Wat Phou. A full moon at Wat Phou is also special, as 10,000 candles are spread at night over the ancient ruins. This is in contrast to the first week of February, when the annual multi-day Wat Phou Festival brings the normally quiet site alive with ceremonies, games and processions of monks. Throughout the year, more adventurous travellers can join guided explorations of caves found on Phu Kao Mountain.

To plan a real local experience in Wat Phou, get in touch with Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos. They’ll help you make the best of Wat Phou, but if you’ve got more time, also try other travel adventures in Champasak.

The Maliau Basin rainforest in Sabah, Borneo, Malaysia, encompasses an area of 390 square kilometres, but the land is so wild that it has never been continuously inhabited by humans. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

Today, the Maliau is awaiting UNESCO World Heritage Site status, which would help with conservation efforts. Funding is required to support initiatives like the construction of a network of trails that would allow small group treks to explore this unspoilt jungle accompanied by a local guide.

The ‘Lost World’ of Sabah

Surrounded by steep and forbidding slopes on all sides, the basin, which covers an area slightly larger than Singapore, is unapproachable on foot. There are no roads, only winding rivers and a lush tropical rainforest. The inaccessibility has kept this remote paradise hidden from humankind for millions of years. It was first spotted in 1947, when a British pilot flying from the west coast of Sabah to Tawau nearly ran into the steep cliff rising over 915 metres above the jungle floor. Maliau Basin has since been dubbed Sabah’s ‘Lost World’ due to its unique and mysteriously intact biodiversity.

The land of Maliau Basin has never been permanently inhabited. Although the people of the Murut tribe arrange yearly hunting trips into the area, they are the only regular visitors and no record or proof of their settlement exists in the forbidding basin. In fact, to date, only 25 percent of the entire area has been mapped.

The whole basin is one single water catchment and drains through a canyon in the south by one river, the Maliau River, which flows out into the Kuamut River, eventually joining Sabah’s largest and most important waterway, the Kinabatangan River. Back in Maliau, there are over 30 waterfalls – the most famous of which is the spectacular seven-tiered, 28-metre cascade known as Maliau Falls – making it the most waterfall-rich area in Malaysia.

With over 30 waterfalls, Sabah's Maliau Basin on Borneo is the most waterfall-rich area in all of Malaysia. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

Daring to Enter

Today, intrepid travellers up for a challenge can arrange a visit to this real ‘lost world.’ Maliau Basin contains over 70 kilometres of trails, and visitors must be accompanied by a guide at all times. To trek the land of Maliau Basin requires good physical fitness as the trails range from easy to steep and the terrain can be challenging.

Though a porter is provided to carry food supplies, hikers are responsible for carting in their own personal belongings and water, unless they are willing to pay an extra fee for additional porters. Exhaustion may take its toll gradually, but it is best to stay focused upon the various species of flora dwelling throughout this unexplored haven. Trekkers stay at campsites equipped with basic facilities where one’s guide is officially the ‘jungle chief.’

The basin is incredibly rich in botanical wonders. It contains no less than 12 distinct forest types, including Upland Sandy Clay, Agathis Tree, Riparian, Montane Heath and Floodplain. There are an estimated 1,800 tree species in Maliau Basin, where 54 are currently listed as endangered or close to extinction. Among the flora that can be found here are 75 dipterocarp species, nepenthes, rhododendrons and rafflesia flowers, as well as at least 80 rare and endemic orchids. Nine species of carnivorous pitcher plant can also be found living in the very low nutrient soils of Maliau.

Although much of the terrain remains unexplored, Maliau Basin has already revealed itself to have the most complex interaction of wildlife on the planet. Over 82 mammal species has been recorded so far, many of them endangered like the Sumatran rhino, Asian elephant, clouded leopard, Malayan sun bear, orangutan, sambar and barking deer, bearded pigs, banteng, civet and the wild ox that has been extinct in peninsular Malaysia for over half a century.

Trekking through the thick vegetation and wild terrain of Sabah's Maliau Basin on Borneo, Malaysia, requires the help of a local tour guide. It also requires good physical condition and a good sense of adventure. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

To date, an impressive 300 species of bird have also been found, including the endemic Bulwer’s pheasant and Bornean bristlehead. No less than one quarter of the bird species found in Maliau Basin is listed as threatened by IUCN (the International Union for Conservation of Nature).

Protecting the Mega Biodiversity of Maliau Basin

In 1997, the Sabah State Assembly announced Maliau Basin as a Class 1 Protection Forest Reserve and increased its size to 588 square kilometres, adding additional forested areas to the north and the east of the basin. Maliau received further protection in 1999 when it earned status as a cultural heritage site under the state’s Cultural Heritage and Conservation Enactment.

These days, efforts are underway to make Maliau Basin Malaysia’s third UNESCO World Heritage Site after the historic cities of Melaka and Georgetown on the Straits of Malacca. Earlier this year, the prime minister of Malaysia, Datuk Seri Najib Tun Razak, paid a visit to the rainforest. He has high hopes for Maliau Basin’s inscription into the list of official UNESCO sites. He observes that an international level of attention and protection afforded by an institution like UNESCO would help keep Maliau unspoilt for important scientific research that is already underway. He also noted that UNESCO status would attract more of the right kind of tourism to the area.

Find out more about braving the lost world of Maliau Basin rainforest on a trekking expedition of a lifetime. Contact Albert and the team at Borneo Eco Tours, the whl.travel local connection in Borneo, Malaysia.

“Load up quick, bad weather, come very quick!”

These are the last words you ever want to hear when you are a passenger in a tiny 20-seater plane flying into the rainforest. As the engines whirred into life, I wondered for a split second whether or not I’d bought enough supplies to last a trek to the nearest village should the plane crash. Risky or not, the flight into the interior of Sarawak only served to highlight the nature of the trip that was to come – remote and, at this point, reckless.

Ceremonial first tree planting of the project "Picnic with the Penan" in Borneo. Photo courtesy of Picnic with the Penan

Last month I headed out on a tiny plane into the interior of Borneo to spend 10 days with the Penan. The Penan are one of the indigenous peoples of Sarawak and were, until recently, the only people to live a nomadic lifestyle within the rainforest. Today, most Penan have settled in villages where they primarily cultivate the land yet still utilize their hunter-gatherer skills to supplement their diet.

I visited two villages that are part of a project called Picnic with the Penan (PWTP). PWTP is a community tourism project that is run by the Penan, and which helps to fund a tree-planting project in areas that were badly burnt in El Nino fires in 1998. In the summer mass fruiting of 2009, there was a once-in-10-year opportunity to easily collect thousands of seeds to plant – knowing that this was coming, the villages sought outside help to fund a nursery and labor costs.

Penan elder making a blow pipe. Photo courtesy of Picnic with the Penan

They realized that by planting species of Meranti, Kapor and some Shorea species, in the future they would be able to selectively use some of the new trees for building, therefore leaving untouched the rare old-growth forest that still exists further from the villages. This project has gone from strength to strength and many saplings are now ready to plant, but the longevity of the project depends on consistent funding and PWTP is still seeking help to ensure the success in this project.

The PWTP projects are facilitated by volunteers who live outside of the villages and have access to the internet and phones, completing administrative tasks that cannot be done in the villages due their remote location. However, all the money that is spent goes directly to the Penan themselves, meaning that you pay your guide/porter/host directly rather than through a middleman. What is interesting about this initiative is that it is run as a co-operative; there is no hierarchy and all decisions are made in village meetings whereby each villager has an equal voice. This serves to create a sense that the project truly belongs to everyone.

One of the many perks of this particular trip is that it remains off the beaten track. With the PWTP program, it is unlikely that you will cross paths with any other travellers for the duration of your stay. Travellers should keep in mind that tourism is new to this area, so if you are expecting five-star amenities, think again! However, if you can approach this unique experience with an open mind, and are willing to make do with relatively basic conditions, then you will surely find it to be enriching and extremely enlightening.

My plan was to enjoy this trip solo, although I did have some concerns about travelling to this remote place on my own (getting on the aforementioned plane didn’t help). However, as soon as I arrived in the village and was greeted by my guide and porter, I realized that I had nothing to worry about. Even though they spoke only a bit of English, my friendly guides successfully managed to make me forget my initial trepidation about our adventurous 3-day trek to the villages.

The Penan may be quite shy when you first meet them, but based on my experience they will open up after a few hours. Soon they will be proudly showing you around the local forests, demonstrating their incredible span of knowledge. In fact, during one of our hikes, I was shocked to find out that my guide had never walked the route we were taking before – he seemed to know where the trails were even when there was no discernible track to follow!

My guide, Paul, was very eager to show me the medicinal plants used by the Penan and it seemed that they were everywhere – almost every small shrub we walked past had some use. It’s not surprising then that the Penan do not see the forest as a monetary resource so much as their whole life, their larder and their hospital. As such, the forest must be kept intact so that future generations and their culture can survive. In a much wider sense, this need to preserve the world’s rainforests can be extended to all of humanity.

Punting down from the Penan village. Photo courtesy of Picnic with the Penan

In this regard, PWTP has empowered the villages, and increasingly there is a real sense that they can do something about their own destinies. PWTP has provided these two villages with an income, which means that in time, there will be more of an incentive for the younger generation to stay in the villages and maintain the traditional connection the Penan have with the rainforest.

Though they have lived a subsistence lifestyle for so long, money has become a necessity in recent years. Ironically this may be the resource that allows the Penan to maintain their way of life. With the funds from the ‘community fee,’ the villagers can decide together how to improve their lives, whether be by replanting hardwoods in areas of damaged rainforest or creating wet rice paddies to provide a stable food supply.

After many years of hearing disheartening news about the Penan, it is really encouraging to see that this Penan-run project is bringing about positive changes that will, in time, provide the stability needed to continue their traditional way of life for future generations.

No fewer than 1.6 billion people — nearly a quarter of the world’s population — depend on forests for their livelihoods. Forests are also critical to maintaining biodiversity, mitigating climate change and enabling key ecosystem functions that regulate the biosphere. And, as the UN resolution declaring 2011 the International Year of Forests recognized, managing forests sustainably can contribute significantly to sustainable development, poverty eradication and meeting the Millennium Development Goals. And yet about 45 per cent of the world’s forests have already been cleared.

In Guatemala, the Ecolodge El Sombrero in the Peten region supports local communities and initiatives for conserving the Yaxha-Nakum-Naranjo National Park. Photo courtesy of Ecolodge El Sombrero

Building a sustainable tourism economy around visiting forests is a powerful way of witnessing and leveraging their contributions If that sounds a little trivial compared to the planetary stakes of conserving the world’s remaining forests then consider these economic facts.

The global timber trade is worth over US$150 billion a year. That money often creates short-term, perverse incentives — especially in developing nations — to fell forests even though in the long run countries are far stronger economically when they manage them sustainably.

The value of forests is far higher than the value of the timber trade. The total value of the ecosystem services they provide — such as carbon capture, water filtration, soil fertility and pest management — is estimated at US$4.7 trillion annually. Forests contain over half of the planet’s biodiversity, on which around 40% of the world’s economy — particularly agriculture, forestry and pharmaceuticals — directly depends. The value of forests, like the value of survival, can’t be measured in money: but if we compare them to human economic activity, they couldn’t be ”worth” less than 20% of Gross World Product, or at least US$15 trillion — two orders of magnitude higher than their timber.

The Pacuare Lodge on the Pacuare River in Costa Rica is deep inside a 25,000-square-kilometre primordial forest which contains jaguars, ocelots, monkeys, sloths, and numerous other species of mammals and birds. Photo courtesy of Pacuare Lodge

Now consider the value of travel and tourism, one of the world’s largest and fastest growing industries. It generates about US$6 trillion worldwide — over 9% of Gross World Product — and employs 235 million people. It is especially important for the economies of developing countries, which house most of the world’s most biodiverse forests. From 1990 to 2006, international tourism revenues in developing countries quintupled, from US$43 billion to US$222 billion. Travel and tourism globally has continued to grow robustly through the economic downturn: by 2021, it is forecast to generate over 13% of GWP or US$9.2 trillion, employing one in ten of the world’s workers.

Ecotourism is estimated to be growing three times faster among leisure travelers than the overall industry: it of course encompasses forest-based tourism — including travel to lodges that own protected areas or to forestbased communities that run tourism operations, situated near or within national parks and biosphere reserves. Though a fraction of the total market, the potential economic value of forests as tourist destinations could clearly exceed their market value as timber stocks, and would be exploited much less destructively and more profitably. The power of tourism can generate massive investments in conservation that carry a high rate of return. Tourism market values are much more commensurate with a broader view of what forests are “worth” (many trillions of dollars) Tapping those values can preserve forests’ biodiversity, ecosystems services and other invaluable assets. USAID’s Forestry Team found that nature-based tourism contributes to forest protection “through heightened awareness of biological resources and the generation of alternative income-producing opportunities.”

In Ecuador, the Kapawi Ecolodge is in a remote and well-protected part of the Amazon, deep in the large First Nation territories of the Achuar people, who have chosen tourism as an alternative and effective way of conserving their land and heritage. Photo courtesy of Kapawi Ecolodge

Of course, largescale tourism can also decimate ecosystems, from coral reefs to rainforests: so it’s critically important that it, like forestry, is managed sustainably. Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification has a huge, positive impact on forest management. So far 334 million acres of forestland — about 1% of the Earth’s land area, roughly twice the size Texas — are under FSC responsible management (just under half of those acres are certified by the Rainforest Alliance). FSC is growing rapidly, and its sustainable practices are deeply and rapidly influencing industry practice — including selective harvesting of lower volumes of wood, replanting, providing wide conservation areas, preserving sensitive ecosystems, protecting the habitat of endangered species and maintaining carbon sequestration to reduce carbon emissions. It is the gold standard for environmentally and socially responsible forestry, helping communities earn a living by maintaining healthy, productive forests.

Given the value of the tourism sector, and the rapid growth of ecotourism, an analogous system for sustainable tourism could be a powerful tool in providing communities with an additional way to make a good living by keeping their forests standing. Tourism is relatively labor-intensive and can help reduce poverty and increase economic equality for women, who make up 46% of the tourism workforce, higher than the global average. Tourism jobs offer relatively high wages and have a jobcreating multiplier effect. A new study by the Center for Responsible Travel, for example, found that workers in ecolodges in Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula — which National Geographic calls “the most biologically intense” place on earth, but is also one the country’s poorest regions — earn twice as much ($710 a month) as workers in a range of other fields. In Nicaragua, where tourism focuses prominently on the natural environment, the Rainforest Alliance estimates that every job in tourism creates an additional local job in another sector, with a higher wage than the national average.

The Explorer's Inn has preserved a forest setting along the Tambopata River in Peru that contains a record biodiversity of birds and butterflies. Photo courtesy of Explorer's Inn

For all these reasons, Rainforest Alliance promotes sustainable tourism along with sustainable forestry and agriculture. It helps tourist businesses get up to speed by providing them with training and technical assistance, and verifies compliance with sustainability requirements, so they can achieve sound accredited certifications. We supported the launch of the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC), which advances universal principles and criteria, connecting diverse businesses, governments, UN bodies, research and academic institutions, social and environmental NGOs and certification programs around the world. And we launched the website SustainableTrip.Org, aggregating businesses that are verified by independent, third-party sustainable tourism certification programs on a searchable database where travellers can find sustainable forest destinations.

Sustainable tourism certification is still in its relatively early days, but it has already demonstrated a potential to tap the power of market forces and the need for sustainable development to create powerful incentives for conserving forests.

Tucked away in a quiet northwest corner of Bosnia-Herzegovina lies one of the last untouched natural ecosystems in Europe. While that sounds like something many tour companies say these days about their own homes, you would be hard pressed to find more unspoiled countryside than that around Banja Luka, where lack of easy access and limited infrastructure once halted the usual tourist swell to this region. Nowadays, though, under the careful guidance of Zepter Passport, the new whl.travel local connection in this part of the world, Banja Luka is now opening up a little.

The rivers surrounding Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina, support some of the liveliest fish populations in the world, which is ideal for fishing enthusiasts. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Fortunately deeply dedicated to preserving the natural beauty of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Zepter Passport has taken careful steps to make sure that human impact is minimal in Banja Luka. In some ways, this has been helped by the company’s relative youth, which means that it doesn’t have many bad habits to work against. It can really help steer Banja Luka on a greener path toward the future.

Travellers to Banja Luka therefore suffer only an embarrassment of riches, deciding between the incredible variety of exciting things to see and do. While Banja Luka city has its share of clubs and bars, old fortresses, presidential palaces, funky cafes, oh-so-hip student eateries and stunning locals (it’s reputed to be home of some of the world’s most beautiful women), visiting the outlying region is perfect for what some might call ‘quiet adventure.’

Banja Luka River Systems

The area surrounding Banja Luka includes lush forests in which there is a smattering of tiny villages and more wildlife than people. Feeding all this verdure, though, is a complex river system that is teeming with fish and other aquatic creatures, and arguably the main draw of this tiny pocket of the world.

+ The Pliva River, known for its spectacular multicoloured waters and large grayling fish, attracts fly-fishers from all over the globe.

+ The Una River was given its name, meaning the ‘only one,’ by Roman explorers. This intricate system of waterfalls, rapids and calm waters shelters unique species of fish and plants.

+ The Unac River brims with rainbow and brown trout. This mountain river is famous for its twilight activity, when the majority of its fish and flowers spring to life.

+ The Ribnik is the wildest river in the Banja Luka region and home to the largest grayling in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Snag one of these cunning fish and claim the ultimate trophy.

+ The Sanica is a tiny tributary of the larger Sana River, but it makes up for its size with the sheer weight of its fish population: 70 percent of the region’s grayling population can be found here, while the rest is brown trout.

+ The Krusnica River’s waters are diamond clear, sourced from a nearby mountain spring that is absolutely pure (don’t be timid about drinking from these waters). Near Banja Luka, the spring reaches a depth of nearly 120 meters, allowing for a wider variance of wildlife and larger fish.

+ The Neretva River has one of the richest instances of soil erosion in the Balkans due to seven nearby mountain peaks and a vast tangle of tributaries. It is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful fly-fishing spots in the world and is said to have the most copious flow of any waterway draining into the Adriatic Sea. A wide variety of fish flourish in the Neretva, from brown and marble trout to grayling, softmouth and lat.

The Old Town of Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina, is packed with shops, quiet eateries, funky cafes and what some say are the most beautiful women in the world. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Active Adventures

With such a rich complex of rivers, Banja Luka draws back angling enthusiasts year after year, especially fly-fishers. Fly-fishing entails multiple casts of an artificial insect or ‘fly’ using a nearly weightless fishing line. It’s a practice that requires significant deliberation and skill and has consequently often been dubbed ‘the contemplative man’s recreation.’

Fly-fishing tours led by Zepter Passport are strictly catch-and-release only. Barbless hooks are mandatory, making their removal easy after a trophy photo is taken so that the fish can be released back, unharmed, into the water.

For non-anglers and anyone else taking a break from the rivers, the surrounding landscape offers a great mix of activities. Traverse the Kozara mountain system and look out over the entire western half of Bosnia; raft down the Vrbas River, one of Europe’s best and the site of the World Rafting Championship in 2009; or, for a piece of Banja Luka’s cultural history, explore the country’s rich ethnic and religious history by foot and visit the numerous monasteries dotting the countryside.

Banja Luka’s weather draws visitors year round to the city and the region’s main draw – the vast, wild countryside of Bosnia-Herzegovina. In support of this, a wide variety of Banja Luka hotels is available, both in and outside the city, from budget to luxurious.

Though the term ‘getting away from it all’ has been overused, Banja Luka, while hardly remote, is admirable in its ability to live up to its promises. For example, any map of Banja Luka reveals a sense of a city so isolated yet so close to Europe’s hotspots that it is serviced by most European airports. Fortunately, the few local travel companies operating in Banja Luke have made sincere efforts to protect the natural beauty.

www.banja-luka-hotels.com is the latest Bosnia-Herzegovina destination to join the whl.travel network, following Medjugorje and Sarajevo.

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IN THE LOCAL LANGUAGE / NA LOKALNOM JEZIKU:

Smjesten u mirnom sjeverozapadnom dijelu Bosne i Hercegovine lezi jedan od poslednjih netaknutih prirodnih ekosistema u Evropi. Iako to zvuci kao nesto sto mnoge kompanije koje se bave turizmom govore o svojim sredinama, tesko cete naci vise netaknutih predjela od ovih oko Banjaluke, gdje je nedostatak lakog pristupa i ogranicena infrastruktura u proslosti kocila masovni turizam u ovoj oblasti. U sadasnje vrijeme, ipak, pod pazljivim vodstvom Zepter Passport-a, novog whl.travel lokalnog partnera u ovom dijelu svijeta, Banja Luka se polako otvara.

Fly-fishing is a unique type of sport, using an artificial fly to counter a weightless line. All fishing with Zepter Passport is catch-and-release using barbless hooks. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Srecom veoma posvecen ocuvanju prirodnih ljepota Bosne i Hercegovine, Zepter Passport je preduzeo pazljive korake da osigura da ljudski uticaj bude minimalan na prirodu. Na neki nacin, to je potpomognuto i relativnom mladoscu kompanije, sto znaci da nema mnogo losih navika protiv kojih bi se borila. To zaista moze pomoci uputiti podrucje Banjaluke ekoloski prihvatljivijim putem u buducnost.

Putnici u Banjaluku stoga pate jedino od velikog izbora, jer moraju da odluce izmedju velikog i raznolikog spektra stvari koje mogu da vide i urade. Dok grad Banja Luka ima veliki broj nocnih klubova i barova, staru tvrdjavu, predsjednicku palatu, otkacene kafice i mjesta za provod, kao i nevjerovatne ljude ( Banja Luka vazi za jedan od gradova u svijetu sa najljepsim zenama ), posjeta okolnom regionu je savrsena za ono sto bi neki mogli nazvati “tiha avantura”.

Rijecni sistemi u okolini Banjaluke

Podrucje oko Banjaluke ukljucuje bujne sume u kojima ima mnogo malih sela i mnogo vise zivotinja nego ljudi. Ono sto daje zivot ovom podrucju je veliki rijecni sistem koji je prepun ribe i drugih vodenih stvorenja, koji je vjerovatno najveca vrijednost ovog dijela svijeta.

+ Rijeka Pliva, poznata po svojoj kvalitetnoj vodi i velikim lipljenima, privlaci ribolovce iz cijelog svijeta.

+ Rijeka Una je dobila ime od rimljana koje znaci “jedna jedina”. Vodopadi, brzaci i mirna voda se ispreplicu njenim tokom, koji cuva jedinstvene vrste riba i biljaka.

+ Rijeka Unac prepuna je kalifornijske i potocne pastrmke. Ova planinska rijeka je cuvena po aktivnosti ribe u sumrak, kada rijeka prosto procvjeta od brojnosti ribe.

+ Ribnik je jedna od najljepsih rijeka u okolini Banjaluke i dom za neke od najvecih lipljena u Bosni i Hercegovini. Uhvatite neke od ovih opreznih riba i uslikajte znacajan trofej.

+ Rijeka Sanica je mala pritoka vece rijeke Sane, ali nadoknadjuje svoju velicinu bogatstvom ribe, u kojoj sa oko 70% preovladjuje lipljen.

+ Voda rijeke Krusnice je kristalno cista, izviruci iz planinskog izvora ( nemojte se plasiti piti iz ovog izvora ). Njen izvor premasuje dubinu od 120 metara, dozvoljavajuci tako veliku raznolikost vodenog svijeta.

+ Rijeka Neretva dobija jako mnogo vode i minerala sa 7 okolnih planina i velike mreze pritoka. Mnogi je smatraju jednim od najljepsih mjesta za musicarski ribolov na svijetu. Mnoge riblje vrste zive u Neretvi, od potocne do mekousne pastrmke, preko lipljena i drugih.

The countryside of Bosnia-Herzegovina is straight out of a Grimm's fairy tale: packed with dense forests and misty rivers all far enough from civilisation for nature to exist in its wildest forms. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Aktivne avanture

Sa tako brojnim rijekama, Banjalucka regija privlaci brojne ribolovce, posebno musicare. Musicarenje je ribolov vjestackom musicom ili insektom, koristenjem nekoliko tehnika kojima se lagana ribolovna snjura koristi da prezentuje imitaciju. To zahtijeva veliku vjestinu, koncentraciju i preciznost, pa se cesto smatra da je to i “umna rekreacija”.

Musicarske ture organizovane od Zepter Passport-a su strogo u rezimu “uhvati i pusti”. Kukice bez povratne kuke su obavezne, jer se ribe lako skidaju s njih po ulovu i slikanju, i riba se odmah vraca nepovrijedjena u vodu.

Za one koji ne pecaju i sve koji zele da naprave pauzu od rijeka, okolni pejsazi nude veliku mogucnost raznih aktivnosti. Obidjite planinu Kozaru i s njenih vrhova pogledajte skoro cijelu sjeverozapadnu Bosnu; probajte rafting Vrbasom, jednom od najboljih Evropskih rijeka za rafting i mjestom Svjetskog prvenstva u raftingu 2009. godine; ili, za dozivljaj istorijskog naslijedja Banjaluke, istrazite bogatu etnicku i religijsku istoriju pjeske i posjetite brojne manastire koji su svuda po okolini.

Zbog blage klime, Banjaluka privlaci posjetioce cijele godine u grad i okolinu, zahvaljujuci i velikoj i skoro netaknutoj prirodi Bosne i Hercegovine. Da bi to podrzali, razliciti hoteli u Banjaluci su u ponudi, u gradu ali i izvan njega, od jeftinih to luksuznih.

Iako uzrecica “pobjeci od svega” je i previse koristena, Banja Luka, iako je dosta jednostavno doci do nje, moze da ispuni sva obecanja. Na primjer, bilo koja karta Banjaluke otkriva grad koji je izolovan a opet tako blizu evropskim glavnim i popularnim destinacijama, dostupan sa nekoliko evropskih aerodroma. Srecom, nekoliko lokalnih turistickih kompanija iz Banjaluke su ucinili znacajne napore da zastite prirodne ljepote.

www.banja-luka-hotels.com je poslednja destinacija u Bosni i Hercegovini koja se prikljucila mrezi whl.travel, poslije Medjugorja i Sarajeva.

A major draw is the opportunity to compete in a unique and spectacular environment. Forget the endless fire roads and jeep-track climbs that some races tend to rely on, where road-bike endurance tends to matter more than MTB skill. The Induna MTB Challenge provides an entirely different challenge for riders to get their teeth into.

Known for its hand-cut trails that snake through the forest, the course serves up a difficult mix of short sharp climbs, rock shelves, rooty drops and tricky switchbacks. Add a few shallow water crossings and even some single tracks beaten flat by hippos and you can see that the riders have their work cut out for them.

The Lowveld’s warm winter climate provides a comfortable environment for those who choose to camp at the race venue. As excitement builds before the race, the community spirit of the riders and spectators is a jovial and rewarding experience.

For those not up for competing, the race is an incredible event just to be around. But if you are looking for something to get the adrenaline pumping, there are plenty of activities available in the Western Kruger area.

Diverse Natural Features and Communities

In addition to the rich biodiversity within its borders, Mole National Park is surrounded by nearly 30 indigenous rural communities, all of which rely on the land for their livelihood.

The farming eco-village of Mognori is located in Gonjaland, in Ghana's northern region, 15 kilometres from Mole National Park. M&J Travel and Tours works in the local community to teach and train women about shea-butter production methods, a way to promote sustainable incomes for the women and their families. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

The land for the park was initially set aside as a wildlife refuge in 1958, but in 1971, the government relocated the human populations and designated the land as a national park. The government also annexed a sizeable chunk of indigenous land, thereby compromising the welfare of families and communities that earned their income directly from the land. Unfortunately, the line between community lands and park property – between accessible commons and nature preserve – has blurred over time as a result and the actions of the communities have been at odds with efforts to preserve the national park and Ghana’s natural savannah.

Today, the relocated indigenous communities continue to struggle to survive, and their traditional subsistence activities, including hunting and woodcutting for fuel, have over the past decades degraded the parkland and resulted in substantial loss of the park’s biodiversity.

Marian Thompson (in yellow skirt), the whl.travel local connection in Northern Ghana, is welcomed by the Magazaya (elected leader and spokeswoman) of a woman's group of shea-nut pickers. Marian and her tour agency, M&J Travel and Tours, work to empower these women in fringe communities near Mole National Park. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

Identifying an Ecotourism Opportunity

When M&J Travel and Tours, a local Ghanaian tour operator and the whl.travel local partner in Northern Ghana, opened an office in Mole in 2010, addressing the issues raised by the park’s fringe communities fit perfectly with the organisation’s commitment to ecotourism and sustainability. Since its launch 20 years ago, M&J has consistently sought to make a positive impact on local communities through tourism.

In June 2010, M&J Travel and Tours therefore launched a shea-butter income-generating project that targeted women’s groups as they’re the main harvesters of the abundant shea trees’ oily nuts from which they then produce a buttery byproduct that is used as a key ingredient in moisturiser creams and cosmetics, hair conditioners, cooking oil, medicinal ointments and soap. Shea-butter production is already a major economic industry in Ghana and the rest of the West African region, where Ghana is now also the leading producer.

Shea-butter production in Ghana is a multi-step process that begins with harvesting the shea in fruit nut form. The shea are washed and rinsed to remove dirt and other impurities. The clean fruit nuts are then sun dried, making it possible to sort out any bad ones. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

“The main idea is that when the government took over Mole Park, they took over a huge chunk of [local communities’] land, compromising the women’s ability to pursue their traditional activities, such as hunting and farming,” commented Arnold Asafu-Adjaye, Head of Sales and Marketing at M&J. “What was left were the shea butter trees. So, we saw the need to develop this industry.”

This community issue is now at the heart of the M&J’s corporate social responsibility initiative in Mole.

Women Shea-Butter Producers

Before this project, while local women were already organised to produce shea butter, it was only at a small scale. Now, numbers have grown, and approximately 30 percent of all economic activity for the national park fringe communities results from some aspect of shea-butter production.

In shea-butter production in Ghana, boiling the fruit nuts softens the outer flesh so that it can be removed, revealing the nut's shell. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

Women continue to be the primary producers, while the men serve as hunters and search for other work alternatives. The women, who mostly stay in the home, are located in close proximity to the shea trees. Although the women now work longer hours now than they used to – farming and tending to the shea trees, harvesting and processing the nuts – their work provides vital additional income to support their families.

In total, M&J estimates that some 10,000 women are actively engaged in shea-butter production for commercial trade in northern Ghana, although M&J works directly with only about 350 of them.

In shea-butter production in Ghana, the shells of the shea nut are cracked open to reveal the inner nut. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

Developing a Viable, Local Industry

Of course, introducing shea butter as a sustainable industry is only the one part of what needs to be accomplished; working with the women to strengthen their rate and quality of production is just as key to ensuring that the women and their families improve their output and reap the full benefits of their efforts.

Therefore, in partnership with a nongovernmental organisation called TechnoServe, M&J is working to provide technical training for the women in quality nut picking, quality butter processing and marketing. There is also hope of collaboration with other agencies and nongovernmental organisations, all involving strong partnerships with financial institutions so as to provide credit facilities to help the women launch viable small-scale businesses.

The women must also overcome existing challenges in the production of shea products, including quality controls, finding consistent buyers for their products and producing at a level that meets customers’ demand, thus ensuring a good return on their time and investments.

Building a Customer Base

According to Mr. Asafu-Adjaye, what the women are now predominantly looking for is buyers, especially those that can ensure their product reaches external markets. At present, sales are more locally based and focus on attracting tourists who visit the Mole National Park.

Their shea butter is not yet available even in the capital city of Accra or other major urban centres such as Kumasi and Takoradi, although M&J is in discussion with local companies that support Ghana-made products.

M& J is also looking partnerships with other potential customers, such as tourism and hospitality services.

“Shea for us is very important in the tourism supply, since products such as soap can be supplied to [those in the] hospitality industry and also become attraction sites to tourists who want to participate in alternative tourism,” explained Marian Thompson, Managing Director of M&J.

Promoting Local Sustainability

In parallel with the support of the women in Mole, the experts at M&J Travel & Tours are actively pursuing other areas of socially responsible engagement with the communities in which it works, from supporting reforestation in northern Ghana to alleviating the effects of climate change and providing local employment opportunities.

Another community project with which the company is presently involved will upgrade the quality of stoves used in local homes to reduce smoke, improve the environment and promote family health in the region.

In shea-butter production in Ghana, the inner nuts are fried in large pans to soften them. The nuts are then converted into a fine paste through a process of kneading, adding water, heating, filtration and then solidification into shea butter as we know it. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

For M&J Travel, the shea-butter initiative is targeted at ensuring local communities share in the gains that local tourism brings to the national economy.

“The main thing is that we think about the communities that we work in,” says Mr. Asafu-Adaye. “It’s not just about bringing tourists; it’s about being a part of the community as well. When the tourists do come in to see what they want and are satisfied with everything, how is the local community affected? We need to be a part of the local community, to make sure they are self-sustainable. And in doing that, we’re working with them on shea butter production, making sure they aren’t left out.”

The city of Podgorica, the capital and largest city in Montenegro (known locally as Crna Gora), is at the heart of an area overflowing with geological wonders. It is, therefore, a great base from which to make half- and full-day excursions, as well as overnight tours, as most companies operate out of this important centre.

Grab one (of many) fishing boats and head to the centre of Montenegro's Skadar Lake, where the fishing (or lazing) opportunities are as copious as the waters. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Alluring Lakes

Perhaps the most famous Podgorica ecotourism attraction is the vast Skadar Lake National Park, encompassing a lake the surrounding landscape of which has remained unspoiled for millions of years, preserving stunning primeval forests.

This includes the stunning Pavlova Strana, a moat-like lake formed by the river Crnojevića where it etches a wide arc between two mountains. This location has been crowned “one of the most beautiful geographical wonders in the world,” where the river is like a ribbon of blue-black against what locals call the emerald pyramids. Make sure to take time to drink in the view, best when crowds of camera-toting tourists aren’t jostling for the perfect shot.

The feeling of isolation possible in Montenegro is almost unrivalled in Europe. You can take a boat cruise to the centre of Skadar and see no one else for miles, afloat alone with nature as it was meant to be. Skadar Lake is a also famous amongst anglers, so you might want to try your hand at fishing here; carp are as abundant as the trout and bleak. Fish by day or by night with harpoons, nets or lines. Take what you catch back to your hotel and fry it by the lakeside. For the full experience, stay at Vranjina, a famous fishermen’s community.

Durmitor's Black Lake, part of Montenegro's exceptional untouched wilderness, has been made all the more mysterious by the folklore about it. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Of course, Skadar isn’t the only place where you can fish. Along the Adriatic Sea, you can find dentex, mullet, sea perch, sardelle, red porgy, lobsters, shrimps, cuttlefish, octopus and squids (among others). Inland, famous freshwater rivers like the Moraca, Bojana and Piva are all packed with fish.

Phenomenal Parks

Montenegro boasts five national parks and extended buffer zones around them. Adjacent to Durmitor National Park is the magnificent Nevidio Canyon, the most recent canyon to have been discovered in Europe. A canyoning experience in the Nevidio (meaning ‘Unseen’) is a test for even the most hardened adrenaline seekers. Visitors should be prepared to abseil down a rock face (only in the summer months) when the water is at its highest, climb steep cliffs, swim through rapids and traverse towering waterfalls. You don’t need any special training (beyond knowing how to swim) and instructors are well versed in all safety precautions.

If you prefer to test your ecotourism mettle in a more controlled setting, there’s always the Ivanova Korita Adventure Park. This proving ground has seven different ‘paths’ through Lovcen National Park, where, as animals look on, you can balance from tree-high cables, jump from platform to platform or swing from tree to tree. There’s plenty for the whole family, with courses ranging from one to 15 metres in height, depending upon participants’ ages. The park, which includes overnight lodging in bungalows, meets European safety standards so first-timers need not be afraid.

For anyone keen on a test of mettle, the Tara River cuts through some of the most unsploied nature in Europe. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Riveting Rides

One key must-see site on any Montenegro visit is the Tara River, at the heart of Durmitor National Park. A raft down the Tara takes you through untouched beech forests on undulating rapids that range from breathtaking white water to languid calms prefect for photo ops. You also pass by waterfalls and campgrounds where most Tara River tours stop for lunch.

Another popular Podgorica ecotourism option is a jeep safari through the Durmitor Massif, a wide plain punctuated by mountains reaching as high as 2,500 metres, 18 glacial lakes and vistas that rival those in the Alps. Here you can visit traditional villages or eat lunch with locals by the famous Black Lake. In 1980, UNESCO listed this 390-square-kilometre Durmitor National Park as a World Heritage site. Durmitor is a great place to begin one’s trip to the Tara River, the deepest canyon in Europe.

Great in Any Season

The black mountains and crystal waters surrounding Podgorica are particularly entrancing in summer. At this time of year, Montenegro blossoms and most Podgorica tours and Podgorica hotels are eager to welcome tourists. You may with to combine a holiday in Podgorica with a trip to the famed beach town of Budva.

Climb or traverse the deepest canyon in Europe, created by Tara River, one of Montenegro's great natural wonders. Photo courtesy of Montenegro Adventures

Although summer is the peak season, if you’re looking ecotourism experience in nature’s rawest state in a country nearly empty of tourists, Montenegro also offers winter sports. For skiers and ice climbers, Montenegro’s unspoilt conditions are beyond compare.

Thinking of going to Montenegro? Contact award-winning Montenegro Adventures, the whl.travel local connection in Podgorica, as well as in Budva and the Bay of Kotor, for tours, accommodation and a load of the kinds of hints you could only get from a local.

Home to the Pantanal, the largest wetland in the world, South Pantanal, in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, is an outstanding ecological wonder. In fact, the name ‘Pantanal’ is derived from the Portuguese word pântano, which means wetland. This incredible wilderness area is an explorer’s feast of forested hills and seasonally affected but perennial waterfalls, rivers, lagoons and meadows. Visitors additionally have the opportunity to observe exotic wildlife; South Pantanal is said to have more animals than the famous Amazon, including one of the largest and healthiest jaguar populations on the earth.

South Pantanal is home to the largest wetland in the world. It supports over 1,000 bird species, 400 different types of fish, 900 subspecies of invertebrates, 480 reptiles and 300 mammal species. It is home to more wildlife than the famous Amazon. Photo courtesy of Fundação de Turismo de Mato Grosso do Sul

Perhaps the biggest challenge to be encountered during a visit is deciding between the many exciting things to see and do in South Pantanal. From strolling through a beautiful city like Aquidauana or spelunking in the deep stalagmite- and stalactite-filled caverns in Bonito to climbing the ancient Fort Coimbra built to protect the country against a Spanish invasion, travellers find no shortage of sights in this remarkably scenic and bio diverse region.

Active travellers and outdoors enthusiasts looking for outstanding tours and activities also have plenty of inspiration in this area renowned for its wildlife viewing, hiking and piranha fishing. There’s exploring the nocturnal habits of ocelots, owls and alligators on a nighttime safari; saddling up for a ride by horseback; or experiencing the unparalleled beauty of the landscape by train.

In the midst of all this activity, it’s easy to make South Pantanal your home away from home, There are many different types of accommodation in South Pantanal, including beautiful rural fazendas (large cattle farms), sustainable ecolodges and boat hotels. Anglers might consider checking in at Hotel Gold Fish, which offers a range of boats for use by guests, while anyone interested in learning more about the lifestyles of local farmers should book a stay at the Fazenda 23 de Março.

whl.travel is very excited to introduce the BWT Operadora team as the expert local connection in South Pantanal. With a strong commitment to environmental preservation, BTW Operadora is the largest travel company working toward the conservation of southern Brazil. Each tour is designed to be conscious of ensuring visitors the best experience possible while maintaining the utmost respect for the local environment so that it will be protected for generations to come.

“We are very glad to join one of the biggest worldwide sites of tourist services,” said Adonai Arruda Filho, the company’s director and president. “It is thrilling that more tourists now will get to know the beauties of this Brazilian region with much more comfort, reserving tours and accommodation with only one click.”

www.hotel-pantanal.com is the latest addition to the ever-growing whl.travel network in Brazil.

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EM PORTUGUÊS / IN PORTUGUESE:

Bem-vindo ao Pantanal Sul, a maior planície alagada do mundo, uma maravilha ecológica no estado brasileiro de Mato Grosso do Sul. A incrível área é um prato cheio para os exploradores da região, com morros florestados, cachoeiras sazonalmente afetadas, rios, lagos e prados e na qual os visitantes ainda têm a oportunidade de observar animais selvagens exóticos. Dizem que o Pantanal Sul tem mais animais do que a famosa Amazônia, incluindo uma das maiores e mais saudáveis populações de onça do planeta.

Aboard the Trem do Pantanal (Pantanal Train), passengers feast their eyes on continuous views of the largest wetland in the world, seen through large glass windowpanes. Lucky passengers may catch a glimpse of South Pantanal’s famous wildlife, including macaws and jaguars. Photo courtesy of Fundação de Turismo de Mato Grosso do Sul

Talvez o maior desafio encontrado durante uma visita ao Pantanal Sul é o de decidir o que fazer e ver entre os muitos atrativos emocionantes que a região oferece. Dar uma volta na bela cidade de Aquidauana, explorar as belas cavernas de estalagmite e estalactite de Bonito ou até escalar o antigo Forte Coimbra, construído para proteger o país contra a invasão dos espanhóis. Os viajantes não sentem falta alguma de belas paisagens nesta região notável por sua biodiversidade.

Viajantes ativos e entusiastas que procuram excursões e atividades extraordinárias têm total inspiração nesta região renomada por sua vida selvagem, por caminhadas e pela pesca da piranha. É possível também explorar os hábitos noturnos das jaguatiricas, das corujas e dos jacarés em um safari noturno, montar em um cavalo para incríveis passeios ou conhecer a beleza incomparável da paisagem com o Trem do Pantanal.

No meio de todas estas atividades, é fácil com que o Pantanal Sul torne-se sua segunda casa. Há vários tipos diferentes de acomodação no Pantanal Sul que incluem belas fazendas rurais (grandes propriedades criadoras de gado) e alojamentos ecológicos sustentáveis. Os pescadores podem considerar a opção de hospedagem no Hotel Gold Fish, que disponibiliza alguns barcos para uso dos hóspedes. Já os interessados em aprender mais sobre o estilo de vida dos fazendeiros locais devem escolher a Fazenda 23 de Março.

A whl.travel tem o prazer de apresentar a equipe da BWT Operadora como a conexão local especializada no Pantanal Sul. Com um forte comprometimento com a preservação ambiental, a BWT Operadora é a maior empresa de turismo que trabalha voltada para a conservação da parte Sul do Brasil. Cada passeio é projetado para garantir aos visitantes a melhor experiência possível e para ao mesmo tempo manter o máximo respeito em relação ao ambiente local, de modo que seja protegido para as gerações futuras.

“Estamos muito contentes e animados em ingressar em um dos maiores sites mundiais de reservas de serviços turísticos”, diz Adonai Arruda Filho, diretor comercial da empresa. “A expectativa é que mais turistas conheçam as belezas das regiões brasileiras com muito mais comodidade e conforto para a reserva dos passeios com apenas um clique”.

www.hotel-pantanal.com é o último destino a ingressar na crescente rede whl.travel no Brasil.

Regardless of the mystique about this massive cascade, however, and not unlike places like Manaus and the Amazon, the Iguassu Falls are much more cherished by international travellers than by locals; like me, many Brazilians often prefer travel abroad to exploring destinations closer to home.

Although I had once planned a trip to Foz do Iguassu, the city on the Brazilian side of the falls, it never actually happened because I lost my flight. It was also never really a priority destination for me. I’ve been to the Niagara Falls in the USA already, I thought, so why should I bother? Silly me…

From a high platform, a 55-metre rappel is enhanced by the lush vegetation and beautiful views on the Brazilian side of the Iguassu Falls. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

Then, when my close friend Wallace, who also works in tourism, said he was planning to visit the Iguassu Falls, I thought it was a good chance to take a few days off, as well as work on a project with Fabio Wandscheer, the whl.travel local partner in Foz do Iguassu. It was even a great opportunity to buy some cheap goods, since Foz do Iguassu borders Ciudad del Este, a Paraguayan shopping paradise for Brazilians.

Foz do Iguassu, Our Adventure Base

On our arrival at the Foz do Iguassu International Airport, Wallace and I were welcomed by Fabio, our local expert. After a good evening with him during which we caught up on business-related topics, we had a noble night of sleep at the Green House Hostel, one of the new businesses Fabio runs in Foz.

For the next two days, we went shopping in Paraguay. Although this adventure alone could justify a trip to Foz do Iguassu, I could not say the trip was complete at that point.

View The Iguassu Falls and vicinity in Brazil and Argentina in a larger map

After all, we were still looking forward to the next two days, which would include visits the falls – one to the Brazilian side and the other to the Argentinean side. Since the falls are right on the border of Brazil and Argentina, there is access to the falls from both sides.

The Brazilian Side: Adventure in Iguaçu National Park

Our guide, Fabio, had warned us that it was going to be a long and action-packed day. That was a thought that flashed through my mind mind when I reached the lofty platform from which I would go rappelling, or abseiling. I had goose bumps as a rush of adrenalin girpped me. From up there, I could barely see Wallace on the ground 55 metres below, trying to take some photos. The views of the falls, however, were incredible.

After the thrilling descent, as we headed straight to the rafting area, I was sorry I hadn’t eaten more at breakfast. It was a short-lived thought, though, as there and ready were the team of Macuco Safari, waiting to coach us about the ride ahead.

The author (centre) with his colleagues, Wallace and Fabio, take a moment out of the raft to pose with the Iguassu Falls in the background. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

Due to the high water level, the Paraná River was calm. So, after bouncing on a few rapids at the beginning of our trip, we took care of the fun ourselves. Everyone plunged into the water, where we stayed for most of the remaining trip.

At the end, our finish was also the staging point for the Great Adventure Boat Ride, the most famous tour of the park. Now in a larger and tougher boat, Fabio, Wallace and I took seats right at the front. We were already soaked, so we didn’t care that we could get even more wet. We zoomed up the river all the way to the cataract known as the Three Musketeers falls. Innocently, I thought we were just going to get really close; what a surprise when the boat’s captain drove us right into the falls. An explosion of water hit me and I was completely reinvigorated.

Next on our activity-packed itinerary was a nine-kilometre forest hike. As it was already a little past noon when we reached the start of the Poço Preto Trail, we grabbed a few snacks and bottles of water, met the guide and got ready. During the long hike I could feel the nature around us with all of my senses.

The trail culminated at the upper part of the Iguassu River, where we did a quick kayak run through calm surroundings that reminded us more of Pantanal than of the turbulent falls further downriver. It was a relaxing way to finish our day!

The Argentinean Side: Iguazú National Park

Due to the rivalry between Brazil and Argentina experienced mainly through football, I was a bit sceptical that the Argentinean side of the Falls could compare with what we had seen during our incredible first day in Brazil. We nevertheless took a morning ride, this time with a group of people that included Colombians and Americans.

Argentina's Iguazú National Park was created in 1934 and contains one of the world's greatest natural wonders: the Iguazu Falls. Surrounded by lively fauna and flora, it is a perfect place for nature lovers. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

As we crossed the border and headed toward Puerto Iguazú and its national park, our guide ran through the itinerary and the driver put us at ease by entertaining us with some Argentine anecdotes.

From the bus we transferred to a train – the fastest way to get to the falls – that took us to the base point from which to see the Devil’s Throat, the most powerful and famous cataract of the park. Even as we crossed a long suspended footbridge that connects visitors to the observation point, we were clueless about what lay ahead. Then, the calm river below started to become rougher, a dazzling spray of water appeared above the tree tops and the mass of people suddenly became denser. We sped up to keep pace with our anxiety.

The fame of these waters was entirely justified; the power of the falls in front of us made us breathless. As I turned my camera on to shoot some photos and videos, I realised that the impressive volume and massive sound was practically impossible to capture.

For the rest of the day, we wandered across the long and characteristic footbridges of the park, getting really close to other impressive falls, one after another. I started to understand why people from the other side of the planet travel to have this same experience. And now I can guarantee: a journey to the Iguassu Falls is not complete if you don’t visit both sides.

Thinking about a visit to the Iguassu Falls, from the Brazilian side or the Argentinian side? Check out Falls Vision Receptivo’s careful selection of Iguassu Falls hotels and let their local experts take you to the falls and surrounding nature with their special Iguassu Falls tours.

In 2010, Kate and William enjoyed a two-week getaway on Desroches Island in the Seychelles. The island is home to only about 50 people and one luxury hotel (the pool of which is pictured above).

Perhaps their decision was influenced by their earlier visit, which went smoothly and resulted in no indecent photos. After all, Desroches Island is an ideal location for keeping intruders at bay, thereby reducing security concerns. For this reason, not to mention incomparable beauty, many destinations in the the Seychelles receive their fair share of celebrities, from tennis stars and footballers to movie stars and, of course, royalty. The rich and famous keep coming back, although the Seychelles is also a destination to be enjoyed by anyone looking for a royal reception.

The Royal Spotlight

Just a short time ago, the world witnessed what has already been called ‘the wedding of the century.’ The prince and his new wife officially invited 1,900 people to the grand occasion, although an estimated 2.5 million spectators were also on hand in London to celebrate, and countries across the globe declared bank holidays so that people could watch it live on television.

With such a huge audience craving information, private details of the wedding were leaked to the public, from the total price of the spectacle to the names on the exclusive guest list. However, until the morning of the royal couple’s arrival in the Seychelles, the honeymoon remained a very private affair.

On Fregate Island in the Seychelles, guests can expect grand views of the coast while dining like royalty

Will it stay that way? In a society where information about the personal lives of celebrities can earn big bucks, there always seems to be someone ready to risk everything for a glimpse behind the curtain. The Duke of Cambridge is no stranger to the intense scrutiny he and the Duchess face in everything they do. Their 10-day honeymoon is no different. Inquiring minds want to know everything: how is the romance going, what they are eating, whether they have argued. What juicy details can be learned?

All the more reason to trust in the security and discretion of the Seychelles, to protect William and Kate from any zoom lenses that might try to disturb their newlywed retreat.

Where in the Seychelles?

Of all the different islands and hidden coves of the Seychelles, where would the honeymooners choose? Major destination include the two largest islands of Mahe and Praslin, as well as La Digue with its famous Anse Source d’Argent beach; but we were always doubtful that the royal couple would visit any of these three high-profile locations.

Instead, E! has reported that the honeymooners did indeed choose to return once more to the lesser island of Desroches, a hideaway with a mix of security, luxury and privacy perfect for a king and queen in the making. Moreover, unlike many Seychelles islands that are rocky and granitic, Desroches is coralline, making it perfect for top-shelf scuba diving!

The resort hotel on Desroches Island in the Seychelles specialises in supreme luxury and intimacy for its honeymooning guests

It’s no wonder that a lover of the outdoors like Prince William chose to bring Kate to Desroches for two weeks in 2010. With only 50 inhabitants and one luxury hotel of 20 rooms on the island, they undoubtedly found the peace and quiet they were looking for. We hope the same spirit of R&R suffuses the royal honeymoon!

Three Other Seychelles Islands Worthy of the Shortlist

The prince and his bride may already have found a perfect refuge, but we hope they will also one day consider visiting other gorgeous and unpopulated Seychelles islands. The three special locations below would certainly help prolong any storybook wedding with the ‘honeymoon of the century.’ All are tiny, privately owned, one-hotel retreats with few inhabitants that provide the perfect combination of isolation and luxury. Even if William and Kate can’t make it, the welcome to all visitors is guaranteed to make anyone feel like royalty.

Denis Island – This sliver of a coral atoll measures just 1.31-square-kilometres. It is one of the first islands in the archipelago to be eco-friendly, carbon neutral and free of rats. Covered in wild and endemic rainforests, Denis Island is a rare ecological wonder. The few human inhabitants are mostly conservationists and manmade structures are limited to a lighthouse, a small chapel, a small airstrip and the island’s one hotel, The Denis Island Resort, with 25 guest chalets. Apart from lazing around on the brilliant white beaches, guests can also sail, wind surf, play tennis, scuba dive and go deep-sea fishing.

The Island of Fregate's Mount Signale rises 125 metres above sea level, creating a throne-like perch for fine dining and sea gazing in the Seychelles

Fregate Island – As one of the granitic Inner Islands of the Seychelles, Fregate is only slightly bigger than Denis, at 2.19–square-kilometres, but its Mount Signale rises to 125 metres. On this island, any couple, royal or not, could explore a virgin rainforest brimming with wildlife. Set in this pristine ecosystem are only 16 villas and one presidential villa. Along the shoreline, the island’s Anse Victorin was voted ‘The World’s Best Beach’ by The Times newspaper. Even a king and queen would be hard pressed to find something more fitting.

North Island – Another granitic Inner Island of 2.01-square-kilometres, North Island is only 27 kilometres north of Mahe. The resort here is part of a larger conservation effort the goals of which are to protect endemic species and eliminate invasive ones. The island’s 11 villas, as well as all other structures on the island, are made of repurposed overgrowth. For any William and Kate interested in making an environmental statement in addition to enjoying total seclusion and luxury, North Island is well worth a visit!

Thinking about a honeymoon in the Seychelles? The Seychelles is a classic destination for both weddings and honeymooners. Resorts are keen to offer special packages to anyone tying the knot- or couples celebrating their honeymoon with royal flair.

It was wonderful autumn day. My friends and I had decided to ride our bicycles cross-country  to the monastery. It was a good project to undertake with friends and is always an excellent way to explore Moldova’s outstanding natural beauty. The monastery itself – which was founded in the 18th Century – is surrounded by thick, rugged forest, also known as Codri.

Once we arrived at our destination, we rested right at the edge of this picturesque lake found on the monastery’s grounds. Autumn had already taken a hold of the trees, turning their leaves a fiery orange.

With summer now in the air, the trees have been restored to a leafy green, but there is great beauty in an autumn landscape and I’m very happy with this photo.

If you have not yet heard of Earth Day, it is an annual commemoration of the birth of the modern environmental movement in 1970 and it ‘has inspired and mobilized individuals and organizations worldwide to demonstrate their commitment to environmental protection and sustainability.’

Students celebrate Earth Day by hugging a tree. Photo courtesy of Flickr/snre

Now, 41 years later, the Earth Day theme is A Billion Acts of Green, a ‘people-powered campaign to generate a billion acts of environmental service and advocacy.’

It calls upon anyone and everyone to declare an act of green and/or start or participate in an Earth Day event.

In this spirit, for the past several weeks The Travel Word has been focusing on the incredible earth-conscious acts of the many conscientious people part of the WHL Group family.

Following yesterday’s blog post sharing our favourite Earth Day videos, and as part of our online Earth Day push to spotlight acts of environmental generosity and sensitivity that could add to the tally of global efforts, we would like again to call attention to a few of them here just from the last month.

+ The theme of The Travel World newsletter for April was biodiversity. In it, we first lamented our world in which the species extinction rate is higher than it has ever been, but then called upon everyone to be part of the solution to species extinction rather than part of the problem. We also looked at

• our Top Five Ways to Experience Biodiversity Hotspots while showing respect for the fragile flora and fauna
• Eco Etiquette for Travelling in the Galapagos
• Brilliant Butterflies in the Kingdom of Bhutan
• the Last Ecological Frontier of Palawan, Philippines
• the Coastal Ecosystems of Paraná, Brazil
• the Benefits of Ecotourism for Children.

+ We have also highlighted efforts to Counter Invasive Coral in Ilha Grande, Brazil.

+ We have profiled some of the ‘green’ local partners of Green Path Transfers, a new global provider of eco-friendly airport transfers and ground transportation.

+ We celebrated Earth Hour 2011.

There is, of course, so much more!

But these are just a few of the millions of stories out there, stories we hope you will share throughout the day today. The goal is to inspire those around you. And to help make our fragile planet more vital tomorrow than it is today.

Happy Earth Day!