Phnom Penh demands your attention from the moment you arrive. Vibrant, exciting and utterly unpredictable are just a few words to describe Cambodia’s capital. It’s a city of stark contrasts: slick SUVs share the road with old-world cyclos; visitors can relax in a posh cafe and think they are in Paris, or join the locals at a pop-up stall selling fried noodles; the memorial at the Killing Fields is heart wrenching, while the Temple of the Emerald Buddha will lift the spirit.

The self-sufficiency of vendors in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is an amazing sight: they carry everything with them, even mini-kitchens. Here a man cooks hard-boiled eggs on a coal brazier. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Just when you thought you’ve got the hang of the city, though, it’ll surprise you with glimpse of something fascinating and unexpected. One wrong turn on a walk and you may find yourself a guest of honour in a Khmer wedding!

Yet if the stimuli ever become too much (and it will happen), simply head to Sisowath Quay, the grand boulevard along the river. The Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, which merge at Phnom Penh, are intrinsic to life and livelihood in Cambodia, so naturally activity in Phnom Penh gravitates to their banks. From your spot in a riverside cafe, bar or restaurant, unwind and watch as the city hustles on by.

Day Trips

A trip to Phnom Penh wouldn’t be complete without a boat ride on the Mekong River at sunset. Slipping away from the shore, one is blessed with the quiet that eludes the city’s relentlessly busy streets. Watch fishermen haul in a catch and maybe visit a village of silk weavers to learn about the fascinating process.

The memorial stupa at the Killing Fields outside Phnom Penh is a startling but important reminder of Cambodia's past. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

A trip to the Killing Fields, now known as the Cheoung Ek Memorial, is an important, eye-opening lesson on the Cambodian Genocide and Phnom Penh’s past. From 1975 to 1979, 1.7 million people perished at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. A Buddhist stupa containing the bones and skulls uncovered from mass graves is a place to reflect on Cambodia’s sorrowful history.

A less sobering alternative is to dine, shop and get pampered for a good cause. Daughters of Cambodia is a nongovernmental organization that trains, employs and empowers victims of sex trafficking in Cambodia. Their Sugar ’n Spice cafe serves lunch (salads, sandwiches), as well as tasty baked goods. The centre is also a spa and a shop selling handmade products.

Shopping

If you’re on the hunt for designer and brand-name clothes at bargain prices, the Russian Market is the place to shop in Phnom Penh. Since there are numerous garment factories in Cambodia, if an item doesn’t meet quality standards or a designer’s specifications, it somehow ends up here. The Russian Market also teems with other items ranging from tasteful to wondrously tacky. This is the best place to pick up good quality, inexpensive silk.

The Central Market (Psar Thmey) of Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is well worth the visit for the building's stunning art deco architecture. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Handmade, high-quality products can be found at boutique stores such as Artisans Angkor and Couleurs D’Asie, while Bodia Nature sells 100-percent-natural bath and aromatherapy products made using locally grown ingredients. The herbal ginger balm is good on sore muscles after a long day of sightseeing. There is a shop riverside at #10, St. 178 and a small stand within the Russian Market.

Mekong Quilts is a non-profit group that provides sustainable employment to women from poor rural regions of Cambodia. The hand-sewn quilts and other handicrafts, from laptop covers to yoga bags, are beautifully made and inexpensive. Shop employees are pros at packaging up large quilts tightly but if you still don’t have room in your luggage, international shipping is available at #49, St. 240.

Restaurants

The eating in Phnom Penh is outstanding. The thriving expat community in the capital city means there’s every sort of international cuisine available, with prices ranging from a worrisome “Why is this so cheap?” to a jaw-dropping “Why is this so expensive?” Generally speaking though, there is good value for meals.

One of the many treats of time spent in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, is a tasty and fresh green-mango salad. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

You can test your stomach’s mettle with street eats: Hot woks dish up stir-fried noodles (mee cha), noodle-soup stands dot every corner, meat kebabs sizzle on grills and whole pigs slow-roast over red-hot coals.

Rice, fish and coconut milk are staples in Cambodian cuisine and Amok trey, the signature dish of Cambodia, uses all three ingredients. Fish coated with coconut milk is steamed or baked in banana leaves, then served with rice. It is delicious, light and fragrant. Try your own hand at Khmer cuisine with a Phnom Penh cooking class.

Cafes and restaurants line Sisowath Quay (riverside) but travellers should make an effort to explore the excellent eateries throughout the city.

Local Treats

Local Angkor beer is everywhere – fortunately it’s also good and cheap.

Tired of ubiquitous Angkor Beer? The German-owned Kingdom microbrewery offers tours and tastings of their flavourful pilsner at their factory in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

The Seeing Hands Massage Centre is a great place to get a no-nonsense massage. Opened in 1995, it now employs 22 blind massage therapists with professional training. In a country with no social assistance, this centre gives those with a disability a sustainable livelihood and skills they can pass on to others. For US$7 you get a one-hour shiatsu massage and you’re contributing to a good business; it’s win-win. The centre can be found at 12E St. #13, across from the large post office near Wat Phnom.

Instead of walking or taking a tuk-tuk to get around, why not hire a cyclo? Slow down and see Phnom Penh in a whole different way.

Night Out

A night out in Phnom Penh starts early, with generous happy hours kicking things off – sometimes at an unsavoury hour. In the sultry afternoon heat, begin on the patio of one of the many riverside bars, cooling off with a cold drink and, if you’re lucky, a breeze off the water.

Happy hours indeed! The perks of time spent in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

The Foreign Correspondents’ Club (FCC) is one such riverside spot. The FCC is located on the second floor of a colonial-era building, away from the street-level hustle of touts and tuk-tuks. It was once a popular watering hole for diplomats and journalists. While there aren’t many shady deals and intrigue going on these days, the FCC still retains the historic charm of its past. The nibbles on the menu are also a treat.

Once upon a time, the nightclub Heart of Darkness would have capped a wild night out. Unfortunately, it now has an unsavoury reputation, with security and crime an issue. Today, expats favour Pontoon.

Malawi, known as the Warm Heart of Africa, is nestled in between Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania. When I first arrived here in 2005 and piled into the back of an open truck with hordes of colourfully dressed girls, the country instantly lived up to its reputation. The girls chatted with us for over four hours on our bumpy journey! We didn’t really understand each other, but the enormous smiles and happy faces were enough to serve as the basis for solid friendships during our time together on the road.

The tranquil shores of Lake Malawi are drawing more and more visitors to Malawi, the Warm Heart of Africa. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Malawi is perhaps most famous for its dominant geographical feature; Lake Malawi is where visitors come to enjoy local culture, warm clear water and wonderfully sandy beaches almost all to themselves. While tourism is slowly picking up along the lakeshore, visitors can still relax or go kayaking or diving without stepping on others’ toes! Of course, the appeal of this small hidden gem of Africa extends beyond the lake, all the way to the peaks of Mulanje Mountain, the highest peak in Central Africa.

Day Trips

If you are staying in the cities of Blantyre or Lilongwe, you have plenty of options for day trips away from urban hustle and bustle. Many people choose to head straight to the lakeshore or Luangwa National Park, but there is another option: village visits.

The Responsible Safari Company has partnered with some extraordinary rural communities eager to welcome travellers on day visits to their villages for close-up glimpses of Malawian culture. Visits can include an afternoon playing with the children in a small orphan care centre, visiting a community project or watching traditional dancing and sampling some local delicacies. Overnight village stays are also a possibility.

Each visit has one thing in common: it always culminates in everyone singing and dancing – and that includes the visitors! A village excursion is also a fantastic way to ensure your visit to Malawi benefits local people.

On day trips to local Malawian village communities, a highlight for visitors is always the energised drums and dance party with local people. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Shopping

If you are looking for a truly unique gift, check out the handful of stalls situated at the base of Mount Mulanje. Here, local artisans prepare and sell crafts made from Mulanje cedar wood. As well as smelling gorgeous, it is ideal for carving intricate patterns and inscriptions.

While the Mulanje cedar is a endangered species, we have it on very good authority that selling these items – a key source of income for local communities – helps stop villagers from getting involved in the all-too-frequent illegal logging activities that remove huge quantities of this precious wood. The amount of wood used for curios is very small and can be sustainably replaced, especially when compared to what is destroyed by logging, so we are comfortable advising travellers to support these craftsmen! Even if you are not buying it is fascinating to spend time watching them.

Another highlight of shopping in Malawi is a visit to the fruit and vegetable markets. Our favourite is Bvumbwe market. Set amidst the tea estates, this small market has some of the best produce in the country.

Restaurants

The food of Malawi is perhaps not its strongest point, unless you are an adventurous eater looking to sample the field mice or caterpillars sold on kebab sticks along the side of the road!

On Lake Malawi, you catch glimpses of local Malawian life, such as the launching of this sailing dhow. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Off the beaten track, though, we do have two favourite family-run places that always keep us coming back for more. The first, called Veg Delight, is in Blantyre and run by an Indian family. The owner, Aisha, is a fantastic cook who offers delicious all-vegetarian Indian and Chinese food.

The second is one of the highlights of hiking Mulanje. After your descent, you can be sure of a delicious freshly baked pizza at rustic Pizza Basilico. Positioned to give stunning views of the mountain, it delivers each and every time with some of the best food in Malawi.

For more dining options, check out our Malawi restaurant guide.

Local Treats

A river boat safari is one of the best ways to appreciate the wildlife and beauty of Malawi’s national parks.

On a recent visit to Majete Wildlife Reserve, we were passengers on a lodge boat equipped with a hamper of nibbles and gin and tonics, when we eased along the riverbank to where a group of elephants was feeding on a small island. After about 20 minutes of wonderful family interaction, the elephant mothers edged their babies toward the water. One by one they then swam across the deep river, babies dipping in and out of the fast-flowing currents and mothers doing an incredible job of ensuring everyone got across safely. Emerging on the other side, the whole family waited until reassembled and then, after a quick dry, headed off into the forest. An incredible sighting!

On a river boat safari in Malawi, you will see amazing wildlife moments such as this herd of elephants crossing the river in Majete Wildlife Reserve. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Night Out

Once a year, The Lake Of Stars music festival comes to Malawi. In 2004, event founder Will Jameson visited Malawi and, inspired by events like Live Aid, WOMAD and Glastonbury, dreamed of having a music festival on the shores of the lake. Lake of Stars Festival, though, would use arts-tourism to generate revenue and exposure for the country.

We have just been to the 2011 festival and it was fantastic! Under the Malawi skies, international and local bands performed right on the beach and the atmosphere was incredible. We danced the night away to the likes of Beverley Knight, The Foals and Freshly Ground.

The festival happens every October and many travellers visit Malawi at this time to combine their travels with this unique event, staying at the cool backpacker havens of Cape Maclear and Senga Bay.

All year round, for an exclusively local feel, catch The Black Missionaries, usually playing on the weekend in either Blantyre or Lilongwe.

Fes, Morocco, is considered one of the holiest cities in the Islamic world. Parts of it barely changed since it was founded at the beginning of the 9th century by Moulay Idriss II, this enchanting city has been a seat of government, philosophy, medicine, music and religion for more than a millennium. In fact, Fes is considered one of the best surviving examples of an ancient Arab city. It comprises the ‘new’ city, established in the 12th century, and the much more ancient medina, a market where goods-laden donkeys and mules still amble alongside buyers.

One highlight of visiting Fez, Morocco, is the panoramic view of the ancient city from a rooftop or other high point like the Merenid Tombs. Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

Visitors enjoying this amazing car-free zone will encounter a fascinating maze of lanes, blind alleys and bustling souks (markets) assaulting the senses with spices and exotic delicacies. With so much on display, it is the perfect place to sharpen your bargaining skills while buying souvenirs, brightly coloured hand-loomed carpets or fine-crafted artisanal goods. Also not to be missed are the famous leather tanneries – a honeycomb of vats erupting in an explosion of brilliant colour – and the venerated Merenid Tombs, where the spectacular panoramic views of Fes defy words.

Day Trips

An exciting day trip from Fes begins at Meknes, one of Morocco’s ‘Imperial Cities’ and a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site complete with lush rolling hills studded with ancient olive groves and vineyards. After a pleasant lunch in this holy city of Moulay Idriss, you can explore the spectacular arched gateways of Bab El Mansour and Bab El Khamis. Then the tour is off to the ancient Roman ruins of Volubulis, where the remains of palaces, baths, soaring arches and magnificent mosaics await discovery on a wildflower-dotted hillside.

Bab Boujloud is one of most famous gateways into the old city of Fez, Morocco. Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

Another compelling day trip lets you explore the Middle Atlas Mountains of Morocco, where a hidden, fragrant cedar forest is filled with chatty Barbary macaques and the mountainsides are home to many rustic Berber villages. Here is where to make a wish by a rushing waterfall or stroll the banks of a placid lake in one of many pleasant parks. At the weekly market in Azrou, you’ll discover fine wooden handicrafts and handmade Berber rugs.

Shopping

Shopping in Fes can be a high-intensity experience. In Morocco, bargaining is a way of life, so always remember that the price you are initially offered will be highly inflated and that it’s up to you to ask for lower. When negotiating with vendors, surrounded by the noise and confusion of the market, you may at first find it difficult to gain confidence and stand your ground, but with a little bit of practice, the haggling process becomes a captivating part of the Moroccan experience.

Handcrafted silver plates like these ones are used for serving biscuits along with tea in Morocco. They can be found in any city's labyrinthine souk (market). Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

Striking a good deal is well worth your while, though, as Fes is world-renowned for its handcrafted Moroccan decorative items, such as textiles, rugs, antiques, hand-woven and embroidered shawls, Berber cushions, handmade garments, leather, wood and much more.

Restaurants

It would take ages to visit all the good places to enjoy the amazing traditional Moroccan cuisine in Fes. To narrow it down: some of the best restaurants are Yacout, Medina and La Maison Arabe. If you wish to try local food while rubbing shoulders with the people of Fes, eat your fill at the small shops of the souk in the ancient city.

Local Treats

Fes is known for the strong presence of Sufism. We still have Sufis who get together every once in a while at someone’s house for a special musical event. Contact us about attending one of these events.

In the famous leather tanneries of Fez, Morocco, hundreds of pots of dye are used in the leather tanning process. Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

We can also help you to experience the Moroccan culinary scene by going to the market to do your own shopping for all the ingredients needed for a cooking class at one of our Moroccan guesthouses. Learn how to make couscous, chicken with lemon, lamb with prune or chicken pastilla.

Night Out

The best place to relax during the daytime is a local café at the souk. Watch the people wander by, each with his own story, as you sip a cup of coffee or tea with the locals. As Fes is a sacred town, the evenings are best spent dining on some of the best food in the country at a local restaurant or on the rooftop of a guesthouse. You just won’t find the kind of nightlife for which places like Agadir, Casablanca or Marrakech are known.

Are you planning your trip to Morocco? For a real insider experience in Fes, reach out to Akim and his team at Marrakesh Voyage, the whl.travel and Urban Adventures local partner in Fes.

Stretched along the Siem Reap River just north of Tonle Sap, Cambodia’s Great Lake, is the town of Siem Reap, gateway to the world-famous and ever-popular ancient temples of Angkor. In the early 1920s, French writer Pierre Jeannerat de Beerski famously wrote “Go to Angkor, my friend, to its ruins and its dreams.” Even today, a visit to Angkor is sure to inspire a sense of magic and awe.

The main attraction of Siem Reap, Cambodia, is the Angkor Wat temple, which is dramatically illuminated at night. When visiting Siem Reap, take a few days to explore all that it has to offer beyond the Angkor Wat. Photo courtesy of Thomas Holdo Hansen /angkorhotels.org

Angkor Wat in Cambodia is the world’s largest religious building and considered by many to be one of the greatest manmade structures ever created. However, the surrounding area is full of smaller and less visited temples all waiting to be explored. The ancient great city of Angkor Thom, with its central Bayon temple known for large and enigmatic sculpted smiling faces, and Ta Phrom, which is often referred to as the ‘Jungle Temple’ because of the many roots and trees growing in and through the temple ruins, usually come high up on most travellers’ itineraries.

Day Trips

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Angkor consists of hundreds of temples of various shapes and sizes. Even though it’s possible to see the main Angkor temples in one day, we strongly recommend not rushing it. Instead, take time to soak in the atmosphere at a leisurely pace.

Just off the main road to the temples is a very informative and interesting permanent exhibition entitled ‘Tonle Sap, Sources of Lives’, where the Cambodian foundation Krousar Thmey showcases the ecological and cultural richness of the great lake of Tonle Sap. All information is in English, French and Khmer and, as such, the exhibition serves as a tool for raising environmental awareness for both locals and visitors.

Tonle Sap itself holds the promise of many popular boat trips. From Siem Reap, the closest and most accessible point of departure is the village of Chong Khneas. Visiting the village used to be a very different experience; with vibrant communities of floating houses, markets, schools and even a floating police station, it has been changed by recent development and in response to the influx of tourists. Chong Khneas is not as ‘unspoiled’ as some of the more remote villages, like Kampong Phluk and Kampong Klieng.

A great way to explore the temples and visit some of the area’s highlights is to cruise around Siem Reap by bicycle, a mode of transport that lets travellers get off the beaten track, pedal through local villages and get a feel for the real Cambodia. Guided Siem Reap cycle tours are available, but bikes can also be hired independently on a daily basis. One local charitable organisation, The White Bicycles rents bikes for US$2 per day from selected hotels and reserves some of the profits to support local community projects.

Exploring Siem Reap by bicycle comes highly recommended. Available from selected outlets, The White Bicycles ensures rental fees support local community projects. Photo courtesy of Soria Moria Boutique Hotel / The White Bicycles

Shopping

Over the last few years, Siem Reap shopping opportunities have increased and many of the stores have taken a proactive stance with regard to giving back to the local communities.

Centrally located in Siem Reap is the Old Market (Psar Chas), a great starting point for any shopping excursion. Together with the Angkor Night Market, the Old Market presents visitors with a range of Fair Trade businesses, shops and market stalls selling traditional handicrafts, Khmer silks, silverware, jewellery and local carvings.

A relatively new addition to the vibrant Siem Reap shopping scene is Alley West, which only a few years back was a dusty, dark and rundown back alley. Now after some serious renovations and refurbishments, the street boasts cute little boutique shops and funky outlets selling locally designed and made clothes and accessories.

Restaurants

Visitors to Siem Reap will find that, despite its relatively small size, the town offers an impressive range of restaurants and eating options. There’s everything from local, budget-friendly street stalls to French-accented top-end restaurants with prices to match.

The ‘rice corner’ at the end of Pub Street sees many backpackers enjoying fried rice, noodles and cold beers. Local delicacies of smoked snake and crispy fried crickets with lime and chillies are also up for grabs for those eager to delve into Siem Reap street fare.

At Sala Bai, which literally means ‘school of rice’, you can eat safely and with a good conscience as the school each year trains 100 young disadvantaged Cambodians in key hospitality skills. Similarly, the US$1 nights at Soria Moria Boutique Hotel on Wat Bo Road started off as a staff training initiative, but now draw a steady crowd of locals and travellers alike.

Khmer Kitchen is a popular and well-priced place for good Cambodian food in a lively location.

Ton Pin, in front of the Silk Lab stall at Angkor Night Market, displays a great range of original, handcrafted items made from local silk. Photo courtesy of Jo Owen / Harnessing Opportunities Through Play and Education

Local Treats

Whilst eating out can be a real treat, we believe it is worth digging a little deeper and exploring some of the secrets of traditional Khmer cuisine. Learning how to catch and prepare crispy fried tarantulas might best be reserved for the truly adventurous, but signing up for a local Cambodian cooking class is a great way to get a feel for the local ingredients.

After a long day of shopping or exploring the Angkor temples, many travellers appreciate resting weary feet and revitalising aching muscles at one of Siem Reap’s spas and massage parlours. Many of the midrange and top-end hotels have their own in-house spas. Amongst the independent local spas, Frangipani comes highly recommended.

Exploring Siem Reap’s art scene can be a true adventure and the Arts Lounge at Hotel de la Paix features exhibits from international and contemporary Cambodian artists. The McDermott Gallery at the FCC is a long-term favourite and the Friends Centre at the Angkor Hospital for Children hosts a rotating exhibition with a range of artists, everything from the legendary Steve McCurry to selected pieces from the Angkor Photo Festival, as well as work by kids from Anjali House, a local centre for underprivileged children.

Night Out

The name Siem Reap probably does not conjure up images of a party town, but, in fact, it is fast earning a reputation for cool coffee hangouts, urban bars, pumping dance floors and live music acts. In fact, what once was a bumpy dirt road with a single bar and snooker hall has developed into a hugely popular area with a diverse selection of pubs, bars and restaurants. Aptly referred to as ‘Pub Street’, a name that has even made it on to the street signs, the official designation is still Street No. 8.

Looking for some specific recommendation? How about Angkor What?, the first and probably most famous bar on the block; it continues to draw crowds of travellers. Just off Pub Street, opposite the Old Market, is the Warehouse with occasional live bands and comedy nights. Miss Wong is the place to go for classy cocktails. For late night owls, ‘X’ marks the spot.

Luang Prabang, once the royal capital of ‘The Kingdom of a Million Elephants,’ retains the beauty of its regal and French colonial past. Well-preserved buildings and a plethora of glittering Buddhist temples nestle at the confluence of two picturesque rivers and against a backdrop of densely forested mountains. The natural beauty and architectural preservation earned the town a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1995. Since then, development has been carefully restricted to the joy of a steady flow of foreign visitors keen to explore the town’s charms.

What better way to explore the jungles and forests around Luang Prabang, Laos, than from the regal perch atop an elephant? Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Exploring the laneways and riverbanks on foot or by bike, admiring the golden temples and chatting with friendly novice monks eager to improve their conversational English are some of the best ways to enjoy the relaxing vibe of Luang Prabang. Of the many splendid temples, the most famous is Wat Xieng Thong, where stunning, intricate mosaics portray temple myths and scenes of every day domestic life. Other attractions include a royal palace, now the National Museum, and the compact but fascinating Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre. A sunrise or sunset climb to the top of the town-centre’s hill, Mount Phousy promises wonderful views of the town and its setting.

Day Trips

With so much to do in Luang Prabang, we’d need more space to recommend everything. First up would have to be a cooking class with us at Tamarind. There is no better way to get insight into the local culture than through a trip to the market and lesson about Lao food.

Anyone looking for a bit more adventure must try some elephant trekking; booking through a responsible local operator is essential, of course, and we recommend the Elephant Park in Ban Xieng Lom.

Finally, if you yearn for beautiful, photogenic scenery, a trip out to Kuang Si Waterfalls is a must.

Shopping

Be sure to leave space in your bag for the great mementos to be found shopping in Luang Prabang. The main street transforms after dusk into a wonderland of bright colours at the Night Market.  Amidst the Beer Lao t-shirts, fisherman pants and imported cheap products, you will find handwoven Lao silk scarves in jewel colours, hilltribe crafts of naïve embroidery and handmade bed linen in traditional ethnic patterns.

The night market is a central feature of Luang Prabang, Laos, and a source for some good bargains, as well as some fine handmade local crafts. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

For more upmarket fair-trade local crafts and products, seek out retail outlets OckPopTok, Caruso Lao and Kopnoi.

Around town, keep an eye out for Mulberry “sa paper,” strewn with leaves and flowers, often fashioned into albums and paper lanterns. Silver is another regional speciality, delicately worked by former royal silversmiths. You can also find an excellent range of jewellery and ritual objects.

Restaurants

Dining options range from street stands to fine eateries and restaurants in Luang Prabang. If you’ve got a strong stomach and adventurous spirit, try the night market takeaway food: grilled fish, meats and spicy local delicacies. Daytime stalls outside the post office provide excellent value-filled baguettes.

For mid-range dining, try Tamarind, our user-friendly introduction to Lao cuisine, and Big Tree on the Mekong for tasty Korean. Coconut Garden is airy and attractive with an extensive menu of Lao and western dishes, while Joma Bakery caters to those seeking the comfort of Western food and le Banneton has a selection of French patisserie treats.

Splurge at Blue Lagoon for international cuisine, L’Elephant Vert for vegetarian raw food or Apsara, renowned for their fish in tamarind sauce.

Local Treats

For a delightful walk, follow the peninsula shoreline along the Mekong riverside road, past the confluence with the Nam Khan River and back into town along that bank. This affords wonderful glimpses of Luang Prabang domestic life. In the dry season you will see locals working their prolific vegetable plots in the rich riverbank soil. The laneways within this Old Quarter, particularly on late afternoons and weekends, reveal intimate scenes of the relaxed social life of residents against a background of fascinating architecture.

As part of Tamarind's Cooking Course, a trip to the local market in Luang Prabang, Laos, often includes a glimpse into the more traditional life of the local population. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Foodies must not skip a sindad, the local cook-it-yourself meal that is a cross between Korean barbecue and Chinese steamboat. You can identify restaurants specialising in this highly popular cuisine by the stone tables with central cavities for the cooking fire.

Lastly, though no visit to Luang Prabang seems complete without observing the monks’ dawn almsgiving ritual, it has sadly become something of a tourist circus. By all means observe respectfully by keeping out of the way of locals and monks and not buying rice from the insistent street sellers.

Night Out

With an official curfew of 11:30pm, Luang Prabang is hardly a wild all-night party town. However, behind Mount Phousy, you will find a variety of bars and drinking establishments dedicated to good times. Hive, the longest established, has an ethnic fashion show followed by talented local teens dancing hip-hop. Nearby is Lao Lao Garden with an open fire, extensive menu and inexpensive cocktails. Other popular spots are the tropical Utopia, which looks like a setting for Survivor, and the fun new Lao Lao Karma Bar. On the main drag, look for the compact Pack Luck Wine Bar or along the Nam Khan River try the scenically located Blue Ice, both expat favourites.

Desperate to beat the curfew? Head to the fluoro-lit bowling alley. It serves Beer Lao and is open until late. Dancing is also possible at the Dao Fa, a local club packed with youngsters that plays western techno. Or, join locals at a Lao disco: Muang Swa has a live band playing Lao dance favourites. It’s fascinating to watch, easy to learn and always fun to join in.

Xieng Khouang

The Plain of Jars in Phonsavan, Laos, is probably the most important Iron Age site in Southeast Asia and has been nominated for listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. When first chiselled into shape, the Jars, believed to be the world’s biggest mortuary vessels, would have been white- or cream-coloured and sparkled in the sun. They must have been stunning.

The Plain of Jars is the most popular and intriguing attraction in Phonsavanh, Xieng Khouang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Sutikno Gindroz

Today, over 2,000 years later, some upright and some tipped over, they come in various shades of grey and speckle the green hills in the summer wet season, parched brown in the winter dry season, all on the Xieng Khouang plateau. Now, seven groups of Jars are open to visitors.

Of course, the Jars are still stunning and also awe-inspiring, especially after having survived centuries of war and neglect, most recently during the Indochina Wars (“Secret War”) in the 1960s and 1970s. (The violence of those times transformed the landscape of Xieng Khouang with countless craters and even inspired the Xieng Khouang–style War Architecture that uses bombs as building material for houses.) Not much is known about the hidden stories of the Plain of Jars and a trip to this remote region in Northern Laos will certainly inspire your thinking about history, war and the limits of human knowledge.

In Xieng Khouang, Laos, women demonstrate how they've learned to make spoons from war scraps of the Secret Wars of the 1960s and 1970s. Photo courtesy of Sutikno Gindroz

Day Trips

The most obvious day trip advice is to get out of Phonsavan Town and explore the Plain of Jars. Book a Phonsavan tour with a local travel agent or just rent a motorbike or pushbike to admire the Plain of Jars Site 1 (big), Site 2 (beautiful) and Site 3 (surrounded by rice fields). Afterward, visit the War Spoon Village of Napia and the villager-owned souvenir shop to learn about how they are converting bombs into spoons and bracelets.

To get further afield, hire a local guide (it’s best to pre-arrange this) for the three-hour easy hike from the Phuan village of Napia to the Hmong village of Namkha, where a rural electrification programme has made the light bulb a new development. After that, continue to the old Phuan Capital of Muang Khoun, which once rivalled Luang Prabang in splendour until countless foreign invasions and then heavy bombings damaged much of the town’s tangible heritage. Do the two-hour history trek to get a better idea about the role of the small but pivotal Phuan kingdom. Alternately, a small hike to the Tai Dam weaving village of Naxay takes you across picturesque rice fields.

Ruins remain of the once spectacular Muang Khoun, an ancient province in Laos that compared to Luang Prabang in splendour. Photo courtesy of Sutikno Gindroz

If you have more time on your hands, go for the two-day trek (book online, individual tours are not possible) to the original Hmong mountain village of Ban Phakeo. On the way back, visit the Hmong village of Ban Tajok, famous for its Xieng Khouang War Architecture that uses parts of bombs as construction material for houses.

Shopping

When shopping in Xieng Khouang, keep in mind that the best souvenirs are hand-made, like the silk Phuan textiles that are famous in Southeast Asia for their intricate weaving technique and fascinating stories. Visit the award-winning Mulberry Farm to learn about silk production and weaving, and buy some of their high-quality products that are sold as far away as Paris and Tokyo.

The Secret War left a legacy of UXOs (unexploded ordnance) that still threaten the local population. Check out the UXO Survivor Information Centre run by World Education Laos for souvenirs produced by UXO Survivors. Do a day trip to Ban Napia and check out the village souvenir shop to buy bracelets and spoons made by villagers from (controlled) aluminium war scrap.

A view of the mist-covered hills of Xieng Khouang Province, Laos. Photo courtesy of Sutikno Gindroz

Restaurants

For a rural area like Xieng Khoang, restaurants and local cuisine exceed expectations. For good local food in Phonsavan Town, try Sangha or the Simmaly Restaurant, the later having the largest portions in town.

You can also find international fare at Nisha’s Indian restaurant. Also worth a try is the Lima Site restaurant at the old airport (Golden Mountain Resort).

There are many Lao-style ‘hot-pot places around – just look for the word Sindaard. The best one is maybe Sao Phuuan near Phonsavan Market, but you will need a tuk-tuk to get there.

Local Treats

For the best finds, don’t stay on the dusty main road! Get some fruit and beer, and then check out the magical sunrises and sunsets from the hills around Phonsavan. Or take a stroll at the local market and examine the various kinds of mushrooms: mastake mushrooms are a variety that is valued by many Japanese visitors as much as truffles. More adventurous treats are fermented swallows or porcupine, which locals praise for the sour meat.

The author, Andreas Hofmann, at L'Auberge de la Plaine du Jarre restaurant, in Phonsavan Town, Xieng Khouang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Sutikno Gindroz

Night Out

For something with colonial-alpine chateau flair and open fireplaces hidden in a private tropical pine forest, try the French restaurant and bar L’Auberge de la Plaine du Jarre, also known as Phu Bhadeng, which is run by Lao-French manager Sanya. After two or three cocktails, he can tell more than one obscure story about the Plain of Jars.

Watch the movies about the Secret War at Sousath Travel, and the documentary at the MAG exhibition. The UXO Survivor Information Centre has a reading and video room as well.

The Plain of Jars Site 2 café at the old airport has typical local music, mainly Thai folk songs. Anyone feeling really adventurous can join the town youth and sing karaoke Thai music at the local disco called Chittavanh.

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is the capital city of Argentina. Once known as the ‘Paris of South America’ it is a cosmopolitan city that mixes European heritage with Latin American culture.

Situated on the banks of the River Plate, Buenos Aires expanded from the dockside suburbs of San Telmo and La Boca into one of the largest cities in South America. Still true to their origins, locals are known as Porteños, which means “people of the port.”

Located on the Plaza de Mayo of Buenos Aires, Argentina, La Casa Rosada is the office of the president. It was also where former first lady Eva Peron waved to her admirers from the balconies.

Day trips

Biking is one of the best ways to see the city. On paved flat streets and odd cobblestone lanes, you can travel at your own pace exploring the iconic sights. The city centre is filled with ornate buildings of grand architectural design, visible signs of the prosperity of Argentina in the early 20th century. You can admire beautiful monuments flanking any main plaza, like Plaza de Mayo, where you can view La Casa Rosada, the Cathedral, Cabildo, the National Bank and the City Government buildings.

You can also take a walking tour of Buenos Aires and follow along Avenida de Mayo past historic cafes such as Café Tortoni, to the widest street in the world, where the city’s emblematic obelisk stands, and up to the City Congress and another immense green plaza dotted with statues and shaded by trees. Visitors can also gain another glimpse of the urban metropolis on a high rises and underground neighbourhoods tour for an up close look at the bustling inner city.

If you would prefer a slightly less active tour, another way to gain an insight into Buenos Aires is to take part in a wine tasting. Argentina produces some of the world’s best wines, but don’t take anyone’s word for it. Sip them for yourself and draw your own conclusions.

A bike tour Buenos Aires-style is the perfect way to see and experience the capital of Argentina. Here, cyclists admire the Floris Generica, a large, metal, solar-powered flower sculpture that is becoming a new icon of the city. It opens its petals during daylight hours and closes them at night.

Shopping

Bring some extra change for shopping in Buenos Aires. If you are here on a Sunday and you enjoy markets, then you have many choices as to where to spend the day perusing the stalls and checking out local handicrafts.

One of the most famous street markets is held in San Telmo district every Sunday. Apart from the hundreds of stalls selling everything from antiques to artwork, you will find street entertainment. Buskers, including couples performing tango, musicians and magicians are all vying for your attention and your coins.

Outside Recoleta Cemetery, where famous Argentines like Eva Peron are buried, you can find another weekend market. This is a good place to pick up local handicrafts. In the district of Palermo, which surrounds Plaza Serrano, yet another market appears; this is a more hip area of the city where trendsetters find fashionable clothes and unique accessories at bargain prices.

Along the pedestrian walking street of Florida in the city centre, you can purchase more typical souvenirs, such as Argentina football tops, either in the national colours of blue and white or in favour of one of the famous rival teams: Boca Juniors and River Plate. There are also plenty of shops selling leather goods, wine and tango souvenirs.

The cobblestone streets of Buenos Aires, Argentina, like this one near Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo neighbourhood, are part of the city's charm

Restaurants

If you can only have one meal in Buenos Aires, it must be a steak. You can’t visit and not eat meat. Argentine steak has a reputation as the best in the world. Head to any parilla restaurant in Buenos Aires, sit down and enjoy your cut accompanied by a bottle of Argentine malbec. San Telmo, Palermo and Recoleta are bursting with restaurant choices. Walk down any street after 10pm and make your way into anywhere where the tables are full.

If you are after something quick to nibble as you tour the sights, perhaps try an empanada with filling choices of ham and cheese, chicken or spicy meat. Along the riverfront near the parkland of the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur there are several street stalls selling choripan (sausage in bread) and bondiola (pork shoulder) sandwiches. For a city that isn’t particularly known for its street food, these are very tasty snacks.

Local Treats

A uniquely Argentine drink that you should try while in town is a fernet and Coke. Fernet, of Italian origin, is drunk in Europe in small shot doses. In Argentina, however, it is mixed with a lot of ice and a good measure of Coca-Cola to create a distinctive drink. The aroma and subtle taste of herbs and spices is not to everyone’s liking, but you may be surprised by the unique taste.

Argentina is well known for its wine, so you must take a sip or two during your visit to find one that suits your palate, although many locals say that all wine is good wine in Argentina

Night Out

The most important thing to know about nightlife in Buenos Aires is that it starts very late. A typical Porteño eats dinner starting around 10pm in the evening. For many foreign visitors this is unusual; they often feel lonely eating alone in a restaurant at 8pm.

If you are with a group of friends and intend to make it a late night, you would not think about going to a night club until at least 2am. Showing up at a disco before this time would once again make you feel lonely. It would just be you, a deserted bar and an empty dance floor.

Planning a trip to Buenos Aires? Check out www.buenosaires-hotels.com and www.buenosairesurbanadventures.com. Our local partners have hand-selected accommodation in Buenos Aires of every style and price range. They also organise great excursions and day tours through which to maximise time in the city with locals like Marlo who know it best.

With so many destinations in the WHL Group’s ever-expanding network, we have an incredible wealth of local travel information at our fingertips. Through the Inside Word, our local partners – all travel experts – share their top tips on what to do, what to eat, where to party and where to shop in their neck of the woods.

Quito, Ecuador

With a population of over two million people, the capital of Ecuador offers itself as a cultural and natural hotspot at the latitudinal centre of the world. Surrounded by volcanoes, Quito is nestled in a high-elevation river basin (2,800 metres) and surrounded by natural areas rich in biodiversity.

It is also an historical landmark of South America. The city’s historical centre bears a remarkably unaltered resemblance to the original layout that dates back over 100 years. Its museums, convents and churches make up a great body of work that represents the artistic splendour of the Quito School (Escuela Quiteña). In fact, the International Bureau of Capitals of Culture (IBOCC) named Quito a 2011 Cultural Capital of the Americas, a designation that has helped promote local tourism on both an international and national level.

The San Francisco Church of Quito, Ecuador, is elegantly adorned with stonework such as the fountain in the foreground

Day Trips

One of the city’s most popular tours is the Quito culinary tour, probably because of its ability to fuse art, culture and the day-to-day realities of the Ecuadorian people. The route begins in the Central Market where you can see the huge variety of fresh fruits and vegetables grown in the country.

Time in the market is followed by a visit to the churches that best represent the city, such as the Convent of San Francisco and the Church of the Society of Jesus. The Convent of San Francisco is special both because it contains one of the most important collections of colonial religious art in the Americas and because it is one of the biggest and oldest complexes on the continent. The Church of the Society of Jesus, with its splendid facade, is special in its own rite as an example of the engineering brilliance of the Quito School. Its interior provokes contemplation of both diligence and perfection as one gazes at the gilded detail that took almost two centuries to complete.

Finally, to stimulate your taste buds, the tour culminates with a delightful meal of typical Ecuadorian cuisine, complete with a demonstration of how it was prepared. This culinary city tour is indeed a route that is filled with surprises and designed for visitors who want a nice photo to take home and a great experience of typical Ecuadorian life for a day.

Shopping

A highlight of shopping in Quito is the local handicrafts. The biggest artisan market is located in Mariscal, the well-known tourist and hotel district of Quito. Inside this market, you can find a huge selection of handicrafts from the different regions of the country. The able hands of the artisans give expression to culture and tradition through bright colours and creative design.

These typical candles, called Jerusalem candles, are traditionally used for parties and festive occasions in Ecuador

Of course, artisans sell their wares all over the city. The items most worthy of mention are Jerusalem candles, hammocks and textiles from Otavalo, along with sweaters and wallets from Cotacachi and hand-woven straw hats.

Ecuador is also known for its rich harvests. Visitors enjoy an amazing variety of local fruits and vegetables that are readily available in any of the main city markets, including the Central Market, the Iñaquito Market and the Santa Clara market, which are located in the centre, south and north of the city, respectively.

Restaurants

For travellers interested in Ecuadorian cuisine and gourmet dishes, here are a few Quito restaurant recommendations.

The Theatrum restaurant, famous for maintaining the highest quality standards in Quito, is located in the very heart of the city’s historic centre. Also at the top of our list is Mama Clorinda restaurant, a place where you can sample a great variety of local signature dishes in a traditional family atmosphere. For a more casual street-level dining experience, head to the Iñaquito market for a shellfish ceviche, a fritada or a trucha with one of many kinds of natural juices freshly squeezed from tropical Ecuadorian fruit.

The incurable sweet tooth should visit the San Agustín ice cream shop in the historical centre or Sibari restaurant in the district of La Ronda.

Ecuador enjoys a regionally diverse gastronomy, so it would be selfish to mention only Quito-style cuisine. All of Ecuador’s dishes are worth exploring, including the native cuisine with its staples of potato, corn, haba beans and toasted bread, and its dessert items such as corn and wheat quesadillas, sweet fig spread and fried ice cream (to name just a few).

Local Treats

Eratosthenes was the first scientist to try to measure the circumference of the earth. Since then, many others have devoted themselves to determining the exact dimensions of the planet. This is how the French Geodesic Mission came to Ecuador to define the equinoctial line that crosses Ecuador and divides the earth into two equal hemispheres.

The famous Mitad del Mundo monument outside Quito, Ecuador, marks where the equator divides the globe into northern and southern hemispheres.

La Mitad del Mundo (“The Middle of the World”) is a place that evokes centuries of scientific inquiry and measurement. A trip here also offers the chance to explore the many other cultural and natural gems of Ecuador.

If your passion is photography and the unbeatable panoramas, El Panecillo is ideal. Here you can admire majestic colonial architecture and, from the Cruz Loma vista point, a full view of the entire city. Access to this remarkable spot at more than 4050 metres above sea level is made easy via cable car from Quito. The cable car trip is very tellingly called Carita de Dios, or Face of God.

Night Out

Quito nights are filled with fun and entertainment, both for children and adults. One option every Wednesday night is a performance by the National Folkloric Ballet Jacchigua. This Quito institution works to revive and sustain the traditions of the colourful multicultural Ecuadorian people. Their spectacular show lasts around two hours and features a cast of over 90 dancers and musicians.

For a more casual night out, visitors can enjoy the company of British or American ex-pats at the world-famous Reina Victoria Pub, which serves traditional British pub grub in Quito’s Mariscal tourism district.

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Con tantos destinos en el red creciente de WHL Group, contamos con un una riqueza increíble de información a nuestra alcance. A través del serie Inside Word, nuestros expertos de viajar locales comparten sus consejos sobre dónde comer, dónde salir de noche, y dónde ir de compras en su area.

Quito, Ecuador

Una ciudad que cuenta con más de dos millones de habitantes, la capital de Ecuador se presenta como una alternativa cultural y natural ubicada en el centro del mundo, rodeada de volcanes en un valle lleno de áreas naturales de enorme biodiversidad.

Quito posee el centro histórico más grande y mejor preservado del continente Americano debido a la mínima alteración de la estructura original, que data de hace más de 100 años. Sus museos, conventos e iglesias atesoran una gran variedad de obras que representan el esplendor artístico de la Escuela Quiteña. Actualmente el Buro Internacional de Capitales Culturales (IBOCC) declaró a Quito como Capital Americana de la Cultura 2011, una designación que ha ayudado para promover el turismo para sus visitantes tanto nacionales como extranjeros.

From one of several of Quito's lookout points, the historical centre of Quito, Ecuador, unfolds in a stunning panorama

Excursiones

Uno de los excursiones que ha recibido mayor acogida es el tour gastronómico, debido a que un solo tour logra fusionar arte, cultura y la realidad de la vida diaria de los ciudadanos ecuatorianos. El recorrido empieza desde el Mercado Central donde se exhibe una muestra de la gran variedad de frutas y vegetales de producción nacional.

El tiempo en el mercado es seguido por la visita a las iglesias más representativas de la cuidad como lo es el convento de San Francisco y la Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús. En el convento San Francisco de Quito se exhibe una de las colecciones más importantes de arte colonial religioso de toda América además de su imponente infraestructura que es uno de los complejos más grandes y antiguos de Suramérica. Una muestra de habilidad e ingenio de los talladores quiteños, se puede apreciar a través de la esplendida fachada de la Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, la cual en su interior se contempla la laboriosidad y perfección de un recubierto de oro que fue construido y decorado durante casi dos siglos.

Finalmente la visita culmina con el deleite de un plato típico ecuatoriano acompañado de la demostración de su preparación. Un recorrido lleno de sorpresas para que nuestros visitantes se lleven no solo una bonita fotografía sino además de vivir la gran experiencia de conocer Ecuador.

Ir de compras

Ir de compras en Quito se trata de buscar la artesanía local. El mercado artesanal está ubicado en el sector la Mariscal, lugar conocido por su gran desarrollo turístico y hotelero. Dentro del mercado artesanal usted podrá encontrar una gran variedad de artesanías de las diferentes regiones del país. Las manos hábiles de los artesanos ecuatorianos permiten plasmar sus tradiciones y su cultura a través de sus llamativos colores y su creatividad.

Sin embargo alrededor de toda la cuidad es posible encontrar diferentes lugares donde pueden adquirir las diferentes artesanías típicas entre las más vendidas podemos mencionar; las velas de Jesuralem, Hamacas y textiles de Otavalo, chaquetas y carteras de Cotacachi, sombreros de paja toquilla, entre otros.

An abundance of fruits and vegetables, some of which you may have never seen before, are on display in the Iñaquito Market of Quito, Ecuador

Ecuador, por supuesto, no solo es famoso por sus artesanías sino además por ser un país agrícola donde es posible disfrutar de una gran variedad de frutas y legumbres que fácilmente se pueden encontrar en los principales mercados de la cuidad como el Mercado Central, Mercado Iñaquito y Mercado de Santa Clara ubicados en el centro, sur y norte de la cuidad.

Restaurantes

Si se trata de degustar la excelente gastronomía ecuatoriana y platos gourmet, podemos recomendar nuestros favoritos restaurantes en Quito.

Theatrum es famoso por mantener los más altos estándares de calidad, ubicado en pleno corazón de la cuidad en el centro histórico. No podemos dejar de mencionar Mama Clorinda restaurante, un lugar donde se puede degustar de la gran variedad de platos típicos en un ambiente tradicional y familiar. Entre los sitios más populares de la cuidad esta el mercado Iñaquito donde es posible disfrutar de un ceviche de mariscos, una fritada o una trucha acompañada de un jugo natural de la gran variedad de frutas ecuatorianas.

Si su preferencia son los dulces debe visitar la heladería San Agustín en el centro histórico o el restaurante Sibari en el sector de la Ronda.

Ecuador goza de una gastronomía muy variada y diferenciada por la región de donde se origina, sin embargo seria egoísta mencionar solo algunos lugares, pero les invitamos a conocer Ecuador y a disfrutar de la comida criolla en donde no puede faltar la papa, el maíz, las habas y el tostado y si se trata de dulces unas quesadillas de harina de maíz, dulce de higos, helados de paila entre muchas opciones más.

The Carita de Dios (Face of God) cable car lifts visitors to a spectacular view high above Quito, Ecuador

Cosas Locales

Eratótenes fue el primer científico que trato de medir la tierra y desde aquel entonces fueron muchos los expertos que dedicaron sus vidas por determinar la exactitud de las mediciones del planeta. Fue así como llego a Ecuador la Misión Geodésica Francesa para determinar que la línea equinoccial cruza el Ecuador dividiendo a los dos hemisferios en partes iguales.

Visitar la ciudad Mitad Mundo es un recorrido que nos remonta años atrás para descubrir el gran ingenio del ser humano y además nos permite conocer las riquezas culturales y naturales que posee nuestro país.

Si su pasión son los miradores y las buenas fotografías puede usted visitar “El Panecillo” lugar ideal para admirar la majestuosidad de la arquitectura colonial o desde el mirador de Cruz Loma tiene la opción de admirar toda la cuidad a mas de 4050 metros de altura sin el más mínimo esfuerzo llegando a la cima por medio del teleférico de Quito que nos deleita con su admirable paisaje citadino y natural. El viaje teleférico se llama ‘Carita de Dios,’ y con mucha razón.

Salir de noche

Las noches de Quito son llenas de diversión tanto para niños como para adultos. Una de las opciones los miércoles en la noche es la función de Ballet Folklórico Nacional Jacchigua el cual a través de su presentación permite mantener y recuperar la memoria de un pueblo pluricultural lleno de colores y tradiciones que son posibles de admirar en una presentación de dos horas con más de 90 bailarines y músicos.

Para una noche menos formal, disfruta de la compañía de expatriados de Inglaterra y los Estados Unidos, o visita la reconocido Reina Victoria Pub ubicado en Mariscal. Ofrece un ambiente internacional que cuenta con un bar competo y una carta de pub grub estilo Británico.

The afternoon hours shed a flattering light on Sarajevo's Miljacka canal in the historical quarters, all surrounded by modern high-reaching towers. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

This month, whl.travel local partner Dzenita Delibasic of Green Visions delivers the scoop on Sarajevo, capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Sarajevo never fails to capture the imagination. Whether it fascinates with its rich history of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences, intrigues curious minds with sights like the Latin Bridge where Franz Ferdinand’s assassination triggered World War I, or charms with its towering green surrounding mountains, unquenchable cafe culture and friendly hospitality, Sarajevo is a place that exceeds expectations.

These handcrafted beaded slippers are a colourful Sarajevo specialty item that visitors love to bring home as a cosy memento. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Day Trips

On your city tour of Sarajevo you’re brought to the city’s beating heart, the Old Town’s main square – Baščaršija – which has for a long time been the most happening place in town. All around it are old houses and cobblestone streets filled with numerous tiny shops where you can pick up the perfect gift for loved ones back at home.

In the nearby surrounding area, you will be captivated by the Old Town Hall (National Library), built in 1896 on the banks of the Miljacka River just across the street from Inat Kuca (Spite House), a well-known restaurant. Within just a few hundred metres of there is a wide range of historic sites such as Brusa Bezistan (a former trading centre that is now the Sarajevo City Museum), the Orthodox Church (1539), the Synagogue (1581), the Roman Catholic Cathedral (1889) and Gazi Husrev-beg’s Mosque (1531), to name just a few. If you wish to see how people lived in the time of the Ottomans, there is the Svrzina House, a Turkish-style house of well-known Muslim families.

Part of Sarajevo's beauty is its relative proximity to rural mountain villages like Lukomir, where old Bosnian ways of life are still preserved today. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Once you get your fill of the busy city centres and wish to escape into the mountains, we recommend a trip that combines both culture and nature. A day trip to Lukomir – at 1,469 metres above sea level it’s Bosnia’s highest village – combines a glimpse of life in the mountains with a visit to the local ancient stecci (medieval tombstones). Lukomir villagers still adhere to the ‘old way’ of doing things, including wearing traditional dress and the occasional turban or fez. This is the perfect place to understand a bit more about the realities of living in a Bosnian mountain village cut off from the outside world during the winter months.

A more active outdoor alternative is to join us on one of our snowshoeing trips which, thanks to the masses of deep, powdery snow that falls on the surrounding mountains, are becoming more and more popular in this part of the world. Nothing compares to the tranquillity of snowshoe walks far away from the crowds through pristine and snow-covered fairytale forests and mountain peaks.

Sarajevo is a great jumping-off point for winter sports such as snowshoeing, which is gaining popularity in the region. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Shopping

The perfect place to start shopping in Sarajevo is in the centre of the old town Baščaršija. On Kazandziluk Street, for example, old coppersmiths work at making fantastic coffee and tea sets. Other artisans produce handmade shoes and slippers, Bosnian and Persian carpets and high-quality gold jewellery.

Modern stores are in the shopping centres like BBI on Titova Street and Alta on Marijin Dvor. Fresh and organic fruit and vegetables can be bought at the Markale Market close to the Eternal Flame War Memorial.

And when that’s all done, it’s always time for a coffee in one of many cafés, where you experience the laid-back atmosphere typical of Bosnian coffee culture.

Coppersmith Street is one of the characteristic pedestrian arteries of Sarajevo's Old Town. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Restaurants

If you desire a beautiful view with affordable tasty traditional Bosnian food, go to Kod Bibana restaurant.

Vegetarians and seafood lovers will enjoy Karuzzo, a small but comfy place next to the Markale Market. Inat Kuca, mentioned above, offers a great variety of local food in an authentic Bosnian atmosphere.

For a refreshing pint of good beer on a hot summer night, head to the Pivnica (Brewery) restaurant near the Franciscan Church on the left side of the Miljacka River. Its got excellent food and is the only Bosnian brewery that produces dark beer. Eager to try local and international wines instead? Visit Noovi Wine Bar situated on a small hill above Djece Sarajeva Park on Tina Ujevica Street. Do not forget to order their mind-blowing mali kolaci (small chocolate cookies).

Sarajevo's Markale Market is popular with locals filling their baskets with fresh produce for their families. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Local treats

Cevapi, small and tasty sausages served with pita bread and onions, are ubiquitous, but best in the many cevabdzinica shops in Sarajevo, two of the most famous of which are Zeljo and Petica, both in the old town.

Another traditional treat is burek, baked pastry filled with meat that can be bought in a buregdzinica. After this filling snack, treat yourself to a hurmasica, a date-shaped pastry soaked in a very sweet syrup sauce, or tufahija, stewed apples with a walnut filling.

Night Out

As soon as the Sarajevo weather warms up, the entire length of Strosmajerova Street is crowded with the tables and chairs of its flanking coffee bars. From there, depending on your desire, you can choose between a cosy little Mediterranean restaurant like Barhana, at number 8 Djulagina Cikma Street, and staying late at the popular Cafe Opera, which is a kind of a mini-club with lots of local events like live music, DJ performances and thematic evenings.

Strosmajerova Street in the Old Town of Sarajevo is the hub of the city's chill cafe culture by day and vibrant nightlife after dark. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Lovers of ethnic cuisine, cocktails and wine will be among good company in Hacienda. This Mexican cantina is not only a lounge bar and restaurant, but also one of the best clubs in Sarajevo. Elsewhere, you can dance through the night in Sarajevo’s Basement disco or spend a relaxing evening with a cup of unbelievably delicious hot chocolate in the Cafe Zlatna Ribica (goldfish). This small bar is in the immediate vicinity of the Eternal Flame and its fin-de-siècle interior is decorated with sewing machines and other paraphernalia.

Whether it is summer or winter there is always some Sarajevo cultural event you can attend, like the Sarajevo Film Festival, the music of Baščaršija Nights, the arts-oriented Sarajevo Winter Festival and the MESS Sarajevo International Theatre Festival.

Santa Marta, Colombia

The greatest historical claim to fame of Santa Marta, Colombia, is that it is one of the first places in the Americas colonised by the Spaniards in the 16th century. Known as the “pearl of the Colombian Caribbean,” the historic port is one of immense natural scenery and boasts the highest coastal mountains in the world – the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

The tranquil beach of Bahia Concha is set against Tayrona National Park's mountains, the Sierra Nevada for which Santa Marta, Colombia, is famous

Anyone who visits Santa Marta must visit Tayrona National Park, a natural paradise with some of the best beaches in the world, the mystical Lost City in the nearby mountains and the surrounding estuary mouths of rivers at the Caribbean Sea. It is also worthwhile to visit the small bays and towns nearby to interact with local people and to learn about their customs and culture.

In the city of Santa Marta, travellers can find in South America’s oldest building (La Casa de Aduana, from 1531) as well as the “mother of all Colombian churches”. A final must-see is the open-air museum Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, a 17th-century hacienda where the liberator of South America, Simón Bolívar, spent the last few days of his life.

Day Trips

Visitors can easily fill an entire day with the fascinations of Tayrona National Park, the indigenous town of Pueblito and marvellous Crystal beach. However, we recommend trying a combination tour so that travellers can maximise their sightseeing time. For example, a Sierra Nevada and Tayrona National Park tour covers a lot of ground, from the small coffee town on Minca just 14 kilometres from Santa Marta to the Sierra Nevada highlands and back down to Crystal beach, all in one day!

The Pozos Azulues, or Blue Fountains, are a refreshing sight near the small coffee village of Minca just 14 kilometers outside of Santa Marta, Colombia

Other day trips in the area should always include a short visit to the quaint fishing village of Taganga or the tourist town of El Rodadero by Chiva bus.

Cruise-ship passengers stopping in Santa Marta can make the most of their short time with specially tailored tours. Other excursions like sport fishing and helicopter rides are available for those who aren’t up for the popular six-day trek to the Lost City (Ciudad Perdida).

Shopping

Avenida Quinta is a lively street for shopping in Santa Marta and finding the latest fashion, while antique shops and traditional clothes shops surround the Cathedral. Of course, there are plenty of typical souvenir shops in El Rodadero with all the standard tourist knickknacks and the local sweets handmade with local fruits that visitors love to sample. The classic souvenirs in Santa Marta are pieces of jewellery and handicrafts made of seashells. The typical hat of the coastal people, the sombrero vueltiado, is also a hot item.

Restaurants

For great, authentic Santa Marta cuisine, a favourite among locals is definitely the Hotel Sierra’s Sound in Minca, 30 minutes from Santa Marta on the way to the Sierra Nevada. It offers delicious regional dishes such as roasted meats (and some international options too) in a relaxed atmosphere right next to the Minca River.

A wealth of biodiversity and wildlife, such as this toucan in its natural habitat, can be spotted in the Tayronaka Reserve near Santa Marta, Colombia

In the city, some good Santa Marta restaurants are Chuchos and the Gran Manuel (both famous for seafood), and Ben’s & Josep’s always comes through with nice juicy steaks. Just recently, a small tapas restaurant called La Tasca opened next to Parque de los Novios, offering very authentic Spanish tapas at a fair price. In Carrera 6 Nr 14-15 there is a nice local restaurant that serves up typical almuerzos (lunches) with soup, chicken, meat or fish accompanied by rice, fried bananas or beans with salad only for 5,000 pesos (about US$3).

Local Treats

The beaches of Santa Marta are said to be the best of the Colombian Caribbean and each one has its own enchantments, especially the beaches of the Tayrona National Park. The surf is dangerous at the beautiful strands of Arrecifes and Cañaveral, while la Piscina and Cabo de San Juan are very calm bays. Only reachable on foot are the lesser-known bays of Neguanje – Cinto, Chengue and the so-called Sea of the Seven Waves.

Of all the beaches on Santa Marta, the calmest and warmest are Bahía Concha and Bonito Gordo. Close to there, you have the small bays from Sisihuaca to Playa Grande and finally Taganga, while surfers congregate at the beaches next to Tayrona Park like Los Angeles, Los Naranjos and Casagrande.

A view of the Cabo San Juan del Guia beach, one of many lush stretches of coast to be discovered in Colombia's Tayrona National Park

Night Out

Santa Marta’s nightlife is less wild and impressive than larger destinations like Cartagena. Visitors will find the most action on the weekend. The bigger nightclubs and bars are located next to Parque de los Novios, and the more laid-back Crab’s Bar or the Figueres Bar hide out in Calle 18 No 3.

Nearby Taganga has become the new hot spot, where local haunts like Sensation and El Mirador de Taganga are great places for locals and foreigners alike.

For anyone who want to enjoy local Vallenato sounds or salsa, just hang out in any grocery store, Maria Bukana or the Terraza Latina in Calle 30.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

For a metropolis of over 6 million people, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, has preserved its natural beauty and charm. No wonder it’s known as ‘the marvellous city.’

Rowing and Kayaking are popular water sports in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, where a cityscape amongst dramatic landforms provides the ultimate scenic backdrop. Photo courtesy of Pedro Kirilos/Riotur

People from Rio are called Cariocas. Their way of life is centred around the mountains that seem to rise from the ocean; Tijuca National Park, which is the biggest urban forest in the world; the fanciful beaches along the south and west coasts; the fascinating and infamous favelas (residential areas) in the hills overlooking the city; and iconic features such as Corcovado Mountain, the Statue of Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain with its cable car ride.

The city is also recognised for its vibrant and international events: Carnival and the New Years Eve party in Copacabana attract over 2 million people every year. On the top of that, Rio is now in the spotlight as host to both the 2016 Olympic Games and the 2014 FIFA World Cup.

Extreme Sports and Adrenaline

Extreme Sports and adventure tours are must-dos in Rio. One of the most exciting activities is a Sugarloaf hiking tour, a trek to the summit of the famous mountain – better than lining up for the cable car. For less adventurous visitors, a Rio bike tour is a great way to explore the Arpoador and Ipanema beaches, the lagoon area and the Botanical Garden. The latter tour ends with an adrenaline rush – a zip-line ride is included in the visit to the Park of Catacumba.

The Brazilian flag waves proudly, giving purpose to the rock climbers behind it in Urca, one of Rio de Janeiro's climbing spots

Shopping

The shopping in Rio is outstanding. There are unique and carefully made handicrafts in the Santa Teresa neighbourhood, where dozens of local artists live. La Vereda is one of the main shops there.

In Ipanema, fancier shops cater to those looking for high-end products, including famous brands and sophisticated designer jewellery. On Sunday, the area plays host to a street market at the General Osorio Square, where good leather clothing, souvenirs, nice local paintings and a lot more can be found.

Restaurants

Finding a good spot to eat out in Rio de Janeiro is easy. Restaurants in Rio de Janeiro cover all tastes – Spanish, French, Lebanese, Arabian, Greek, Mediterranean, Mexican, Japanese and Brazilian – and line the streets of the Ipanema, Leblon, Lagoa and Jardim Botânico areas.

A typical meal in Rio is the traditional feijoada, a stew of thinly sliced pork meats accompanied by side dishes of rice, black beans, collard greens, orange slices and hot peppers. Most restaurants serve it as the daily special on Saturdays and Sundays.

The caipirinha is a drink that goes well with feijoada and can be spotted everywhere in the city. It is made of cachaça (Brazil’s most common alcoholic beverage, distilled from sugar cane), sugar and lime.

Some restaurants in Rio charge by the kilo of food. You choose what you want from the buffet and salad bars, and then you weigh your plate. This style of restaurant is very popular among locals.

A surfer and other beach-goers capture the final moments of daylight on Ipamena beach, Rio de Janiero

Local Treats

During the summer, one of the most interesting habits of the cariocas is to watch the sunset from Arpoador Rock at Arpoador beach (the eastern extremity of Ipanema beach). Known for its waves and surfing point, Arpoador attracts both locals and tourists all year round. People climb to the top of the rock, sit down as if it were a movie theatre and wait until the sun sets in the ocean. When it does it, everybody whistles and applauds this daily performance of Mother Nature.

Night Out

The nightlife in Rio usually starts at a bar. There are plenty of options in the Ipanema, Leblon, Copacabana and Lapa districts. People gather to savour some refreshing chopp, which is the most popular alcoholic beverage in Rio. It’s a draft beer served ice cold, which is perfect on a hot night in Rio. Ask for chopp claro if you want a light beer or chopp escuro if you want it dark.

After the warmup at a bar, the main attractions nowadays are in the Lapa district, where night clubs heat up with a variety of rhythms. The main clubs (Rio Scenarium, Democráticos and Lapa 40 Graus) feature live samba, forró or eletronica music.

Split, Croatia

Split is the second-largest city in Croatia and a central location in Dalmatia, a historical region of the east coast of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, the town is set in a natural bay and surrounded by mountains and hills on all sides except the south, where it faces the sea and the islands of Šolta, Brač, Hvar and Vis. Due to its central position, Split, whose name comes from the ancient word aspalathos, the name of the yellow flowers called Spanish broom or weaver’s broom that grow all around the region, is one of the country’s busiest ports and the perfect place to start your discovery of the Croatian islands.

Riva is the main waterfront promenade of Split, Croatia, and a perfect place for a coffee break in the sun

Although there are vestiges of prehistoric civilisations, the year 295 AD is considered the official year of the foundation of Split, as that was when construction of the Diocletian Palace commenced, to be finished 10 years later. The Diocletian Palace, a unique architectural wonder, was the retirement home for one of the last great Roman Emperors, Diocletian, who decided to return in his old age to a site not far from his birthplace. Over the centuries, the extended Palace area evolved into the core of the Old Town of Split and home to many people who built their houses, churches and other monuments inside its walls. People still live inside the Palace, making it a unique living monument whose importance was recognised by UNESCO and added to its World Heritage List.

In addition to the Palace, Split is also known for its special Mediterranean atmosphere and way of life, vivid tiny streets and open squares packed with small shops, galleries and bars, long waterfront promenade that serves as an open living room for all citizens and visitors, colourful greenmarket and fish market, fashionable people, football fans, many beaches, good nightlife and many other things.

The belltower of the Cathedral of St. Domnius was built in 13th century in Romanesque-Gothic style. The view from the top is a must-see in Split, Croatia.

Ana Roščić, your whl.travel local connection in Split, here shares her inside perspective on what she believes is some of the best her hometown has to offer.

Day Trip

No visit to Split is complete without a tour the Diocletian Palace. Walk through the basements to learn about the original look of the building and the way it developed over the centuries. Visit the Mausoleum of Diocletian, which was turned into the Cathedral of St. Domnius and climb the 60-metre high belltower to enjoy the view of the Old-City rooftops and the islands. Learn about local traditions in the Ethnographical Museum and urban history in the Town Museum. Enjoy fine art in the Emanuel Vidović Gallery or just wander through the labyrinth of narrow streets and be surprised by all the layers of history to be found just inside the Palace walls.

Split, as seen from the viewpoint on Marjan Hill, is surrounded by by mountains on all sides except its outlet to the sea

Time permitting, spend an afternoon at Marjan Hill, the recreational zone and source of fresh air situated just above the Old Town. Marjan is adjacent to beaches and covered with walking paths, cycling tracks and rock-climbing sites, as well as romantic viewpoints. Finish your Marjan tour in Meštrović Gallery – the former home and atelier of the greatest Croatian sculptor, Ivan Meštrović.

The Split vicinity offers a variety of excursions and activities, such as white-water rafting on the Cetina River, horse riding at Trilj, visits to the historical towns of Salona and Trogir, day trips to Krka National Park with its waterfalls and ethno village, discovery of the island of Šolta with its olive oil tasting and visits to the honey farm and many others.

Split is also the start and the finishing point for seven-day island-hopping cruises around the Adriatic Islands. This is one of the best ways to enjoy the Adriatic Sea and visit some of the most popular islands like Hvar, Brač, Korčula and Mljet.

The Cetina River, near Split, is the main destination for river-based activities in Dalmatia, Croatia, such as rafting and canyoning. As the river passes through a magnificent canyon, the rocks also attract climbers from all around the world

Shopping

Engaging local shopping experiences can be found every morning from Monday to Saturday at the greenmarket and fish market. The colourful and vivid greenmarket or Pazar is notable for its fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers and milk products, although there are many other unexpected things. The fish market is a chance to learn about the different Adriatic fish species and then try the very fresh catch of the day. Fashionistas will enjoy the huge choice of shoe shops as well as places to buy sunglasses.

Restaurants

Just a short walk from the Palace is a little fishing port called Matejuška, surrounded by the historical suburban district of Varoš. The area here is full of typical Dalmatian restaurants, called konoba.

Start a healthy local-fare dinner, complete with a delightful house wine, with homemade smoked ham, called pršut, cheese and olives, or some salted anchovies; as a main dish, try a shrimp risotto, a fish stew (brodet) or veal in a wine sauce (pašticada). For dessert, indulge in the Dalmatian-style crème brulée, called rožata.

Picigin is a game invented in Split, Croatia, and played on the Bačvice beach through the year.

Local Treats

A five-minute walk from the Old Town is a beach called Bačvice, cherished by the locals as the place where the special game of Picigin was invented. As soon as you step on the beach, you will see people playing it, mostly young men in groups of five or six at the shallow part of the beach. The game is played by throwing a small rubber ball to each player without losing it and making as much effort as possible to get the ball, which means jumping and throwing your body into the sea. There is even a world championship organised every summer for the best teams in Split and from other parts of the world (it’s mostly Croatia, but everybody is invited). The most fanatical players can be seen playing throughout the year and especially on New Year’s Eve and Christmas, even if the weather is snowy or sunny. Don’t be afraid to try and play. Local groups have welcomed visitors who, after some practice, show skill at it.

Night Out

Nightlife in Split usually starts with a few drinks in the Palace in some of the tiny narrow streets packed with bars, where people stand on the street or sit on the stairs. Afterward, most of the young people continue to Bačvice beach and choose one of the many cocktail bars that play music all night. Near Poljud (the famous football stadium) is another location known for its fancy nightclubs.

Another way to spend the evening to enjoy some of the cultural performances taking place in the Palace every night in summer. Watch a movie in the open-air cinema or a play in the open squares and other locations during the Split Summer Festival.

Goa, India

Freed from colonial Portuguese rule in 1961, Goa is known as the beach capital of India, one of the country’s most laid back, yet sophisticated and exciting destinations. Its name alone conjures up images of calm, serenity and lazing in the sand and sea during its 200 days of sun every year, not to mention its colourful pageantry, myriad festivals, warm and gracious people, and superb cuisine.

The Latin quarter of Panaji is the old Portuguese enclave known as Fontainhas, a glimpse of what the town was like in the Portuguese era. Lose yourself in the narrow streets fringed with old colourful houses - a relic of times when the town council insisted that walls be freshly painted after every monsoon.

Goa truly has a special character that just keeps tourists coming: a hypnotic quality that catches hold of your sensibilities and makes you want to return again and again to indulge in its warmth, ease and glorious history richly preserved in numerous landmark structures. Among other churches, forts, traditional homes, villages and cities, the Bom Jesus Basilica and a few convents are designated a World Heritage Site. The Basilica holds the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, regarded by many Catholics as the patron saint of Goa.

Ashok Doshi, your whl.travel local connection in Goa, here shares his inside perspective on what he believes is some of the best his home town has to offer.

Day Trip

There are many interesting places to see and visit in Goa. Heritage Walks take in the colourful and beautiful old quarter, or Fontainhas, of the main city, Panaji, a heritage area where you can still see the influence of Portuguese architecture.

Alternatively, you can visit Ancestral Goa, an educational project that illustrates the eco-friendly aspects of the daily lives of people in earlier times. The entire place sits in the shade of huge trees and shrubs, giving it the appearance of a vast parkland.

The Dudhsagar Falls are one the top 100 highest waterfalls in the world. Situated on the border of Goa and Karnataka, the Dudhsagar Waterfalls plunge 2000 feet down in the wooded mountains of the western Ghats. Believed to be the highest falls in India, these magnificent falls sit at the heart of a tropical jungle laced with crisscrossing streams. The view from the top of the falls is breathtaking, especially in the magical light of dawn.

For nature lovers, a trip to the highest waterfalls in India – the breathtaking Dudhsagar Waterfalls – is a must. The water drops from a height of 2000 feet, creating a mist at the bottom, which gives it a mystical look and feel.

Shopping

Goa is full of local markets and beach shacks that sell everything under the sun. The most famous of them all is the Anjuna Flea Market, held on the beach every Wednesday. A nonstop trance soundtrack sets the scene and a thousand stalls stock a full spread of wares from futuristic rave gear to hammocks that you can string up between two palm trees on the nearby beach. It’s a wonderful place to meet people from all over the world.

The traditional weekly markets in every village are also great to visit. The Friday Market in Mapusa welcomes folk from villages all across Goa, who breeze in and set up large tables groaning under the weight of extraordinarily large vegetables, strings of home-made pork sausages, basketfuls of kokum (a local fruit that can also be dried and used as a seasoning), pickles like chepnim and miscut made out of tender mangoes, prawn balchao and Bombay duck pickles, freshly baked Goan breads, all kinds of confectionary (traditional Goan goodies like bebinca and dodol), guava cheese and wines. There is also a Saturday Market in Calangute.

Taking place every Wednesday, mostly during the winter months of November to April, Anjuna Flea Market is one of the most happening places in Goa. A must-see for any tourist, it is more of a souvenir bazaar, where you will find hawkers from Gujarat, Rajasthan and Kashmir offering handicrafts such as embroidered and mirrored tote bags, waist pouches, bedspreads, waistcoats and costume jewellery.

For authentic Goan souvenirs, proceed to Velha Goa Galleria in Fountainhas (in Panjim) for azulejos where one can find attractive Portuguese-style hand-painted tiles and ceramics.

Restaurants

Seafood and rice are staple foods for Goans, so most eateries serve fish or prawn curry and rice with a cool pint of beer. Try out Brittos Shack & Restaurant at Baga in North Goa, or Souza Lobo – a favourite joint on Calangute beach. The most famous restaurant in South Goa that everyone makes a beeline for is Martins Corner, which is set in an old Portuguese mansion.

As a famous tourist spot, Goa has restaurants that serve up a lot of international cuisine! North Indian, Tibetan, continental, Chinese, Thai, Lebanese, Mediterranean and Italian are all represented, as are fast food outlets like KFC and Domino’s Pizza!

Seafood is one of Goa's biggest attractions and travellers adore the affordable Goan seafood dishes as much as its virgin beaches and blue sea

Local Treats

Goan curries are coconut-, tomato- or vinegar- based (vindaloo), but the all-time favourites are xacutis made from ground-roasted spices, ambot-tik (sour and spicy shark curry), fish curry, shrimp/prawn curry with okra, rechaad baangra (fried mackerel stuffed with red masala), sorpotel (spicy-tangy red pork and/or cubed beef in gravy), kafreal (chicken or pomfret stuffed with a green masala), shellfish curry, fried mussels and prawn balchao (pickle).

Night Out

Goa is known for its rollicking night-time fun. The ideal destination for parties, Goa attracts the young to its sprawling beaches and buzzing nightlife. The natural beauty is just perfect for relaxing, but also for the languid atmosphere that makes everyone feel at home and slip easily into the Goan lifestyle.

You can visit Club Tito’s any time of year. It’s one of Goa’s most famous haunts, located on Baga Beach. It has a reasonable discotheque and restaurants stretching on to the beach and DJ nights most days of the week playing funk, pop or modern music.

Two other good choices are Club Extreme, a discotheque on the Miramar Road in Panaji that plays good disco and is open seven nights a week; and Club Paradiso, located right on top of a hill in Anjuna, North Goa.

Dakar's Sandaga Market is the real deal. A huge melting pot of nationalities, including West Africans, Lebanese and Chinese, come here to sell their wares. Haggling or wahale skills are a must!

Dakar, Senegal

Dakar is proud of being West Africa’s leading city when it comes to cultural events or congresses and seminars. It’s one indication of its vitality – being the capital of a politically stable country helps a lot – and also means that there are plenty of opportunities for experiencing the magic of a local musical performance or enjoying the works of Dakar’s many visual artists.

Dakar promises an interesting mix of architectural styles, from ultramodern structures, large 1980s high-rises and colonial buildings to traditional hay huts and the artistic visions of the Hotel Sokhamon or Yengoulleen. Cutting-edge electronics and clothing stores rub shoulders with street hawkers, and hurrying office workers mingle with elegant, strolling driankes (local Senegalese women) wearing magnificent glittering traditional outfits.

Jérôme Kardos, your whl.travel local connection in Dakar, here lifts the lid on the town he fell in love with, showcasing what he believes is some of the best the city has to offer.

Day Trip

Head for Ile de Gorée (Gorée Island) – a World Heritage Site must-see! As you approach its shores to take in the fabulous views, the uniqueness of the place is visible even before you set foot on the island. What first springs to the fore is the remarkable freshness of the air and tranquil atmosphere (especially between 10 am and 5 pm outside the peak tourist season). There are no cars or motorbikes and only a few paved roads outnumbered by the small, sandy streets lined with very colourful houses. It’s a great place for a slow wander.

Goree Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978, is one of Dakar's biggest tourist attractions. Steeped in history, it was once the centre of the West African slave trade and many poignant reminders of its troubled past remain.

Then you need to visit the highlights, including the Church of Saint Charles Borromée (Senegal’s oldest church); Castle Hill, location of the gun on which Victor Schoelcher sat to celebrate the abolition of slavery; the Fort d’Estrées; Université des Mutants; Musée Henriette Bathily (African Women’s Museum); and much more. But none of this will affect you as emotionally as a visit to the 1776 Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves), a sobering memorial to the millions of Africans sold into servitude over about 350 years. Fortunately, the serene atmosphere of the island, with its Catholic and Muslim communities living peacefully together and celebrating each other’s religious festivals, immediately puts you back at ease.

Back on the mainland, the first building you encounter outside the port is one of Dakar’s greatest, a little gem of colonial architecture: the railway station. Then there are the museums (IFAN – Museum of African Arts – is a must), art galleries, shops, bars and restaurants. Melting into the crowd is a real experience, and one that requires a little practice, especially when you find yourself in the bustling marketplaces – the very heart of the town!

You can then leave the downtown Plateau area, which includes Independence Square, the Presidential Palace, Dakar Cathedral and Grand Mosque, and walk along the Corniche, a stunning coastal road. A tour of the Corniche is one of the most complete and well-balanced tours in Dakar. It can be focused on sightseeing (the Millennium Door or Magic Land amusement parks, Memelles lighthouse and Beach) or on local lifestyles (the Soumbedioune fishermen’s port and women’s fish market, the mosque and small fishermen’s port of Ouakam) with longer stops allowing time for interaction with local people in local hangouts.

Of course, there are other visits possible in the Greater Dakar area and penetrating deep into ‘authentic’ Senegal from Medina to Guediawaye, with a focus on arts or on local life. They should be considered a must for people supporting local travel who want to share real experiences.

The Corniche of Dakar is a beautiful coastal road that runs the length of the peninsula

Shopping

Dakar can be seen as a giant marketplace. Between the shops, exotic malls (not exactly the same as in Western countries!), street hawkers, arts-and-crafts markets and general markets, visitors are tempted around every corner by a dazzling variety of goods to suit every budget. Try a tour or head out on your own!

Restaurant

To get acquainted with the local cuisine, try some Dakar restaurants.

International risk-free dining and a satisfying local atmosphere can be enjoyed at Chez Loutcha (Senegalese and Cape Verdean cuisine), or the Imperial and Astoria restaurants. Niani, Lagon, Terrou Bi, Pointe des Almadies all combine an awesome location overlooking the sea with sophisticated cuisine, while Fatou Kim and La Marée, for example, are more simple beachside restaurants perfect for lovers of mussels, oysters, lobsters and Gazelle beer. The 63cl bottle of Gazelle is the cheapest beer and what all the locals drink; whether or not a bar or restaurant serves it is a good clue as to whether it’s a local place or not.

For some real local indulgence and homemade cuisine, local meals are very cheap (€2 including a local juice, like one made from the fruit of the baobab tree or a bissap made from the hibiscus flower). Although they are sometimes served in places without proper kitchens or seating areas, others are really quite decent and will not frighten someone used only to western-style food.

It would be a huge pity not to mention Dakar’s excellent street food, like the little, fried, sweet-and-savoury beignets (donuts), boulettes (fish balls), samosas and fataya (pastries filled with either meat or fish), or even sweets sold by women sitting in the streets. The best, however, has to be beef brochettes (kebabs) and dibi, grilled mutton slices so small and cheap (less than € 0,10 each) that you just buy as many as you like.

Just a five-minute boat ride from Dakar, Ngor Island is a hidden gem popular with surfers thanks to some excellent breaks. It has a range of dining and accommodation options and is a perfect city getaway.

Local Treats

Dakar’s best local treat is Ngor Island. Although not strictly within Dakar itself, this little-known island paradise is located only half a mile offshore and is easily accessible by pirogue (wooden motorboat). The island has some world-class surf breaks and was featured in the cult 1966 surf movie, The Endless Summer. It’s also a popular destination with wakeboarders, scuba divers and snorkellers. Water sports aside, it’s the perfect location to relax and enjoy the breathtaking views, delicious fresh seafood and tranquil surroundings. You might even bump into US R&B artist, Akon, who has a house on the island!

Night Out

Make sure you don’t miss the Dakar nightlife. Try the famous Club Thiossane (owned by the legendary musician Youssou N’dour), Kilimandjaro (Thione Ballago Seck’s place), Sahel (the oldest club in town), Chez Iba (Salsa/Afro-Cuban music) and, of course, Just 4 U, the perfect compromise between hip fashion, authentic atmosphere and high-quality artists (it boasts the very best musicians). There are also plenty of small clubs with excellent musicians playing everything from jazz to traditional music.

Friendly bars can be found in any part of town, from downtown to the districts of Almadies and Ngor. Some can be a bit expensive for local budgets. If you’re not afraid of really checking out the local scene, the tiny drinking dens – sometimes just a room in a family house – will really put you in touch with the locals, who love to shoot the breeze with other customers.

Manado, Indonesia

The provincial capital and administrative centre of North Sulawesi Province, Manado is the heart of the Minahasa people, who are known for their gregarious and hospitable nature. An excellent base for lovers of diving and the outdoors, as well as shopaholics and foodies, the city teems with markets, restaurants, places of interest and accommodation to suit all pockets.

Manado is surrounded by the ocean, lush greenery and the perfect cone of Manado Tua volcano, which rises from the sea as a stunning backdrop to the city. Diving and snorkelling are big draws and the nearby tropical islands of Palau Bunaken in Manado Bay are some of the best dive spots in the area.

Day Trip

Manado has many places to visit, top of the list being Bunaken Marine Park, which is only a 45-minute boat ride away. It is well known in Indonesia and abroad as a magnificent diving spot. Another top day-trip attraction is Tangkoko Nature Reserve, where you can see one of the world’s smallest primates, the tarsier, in its natural habitat. It takes about 90 minutes to get there.

If you are very interested in historical heritage, Waruga Tomb in Sawangan is a mine of information about the ancient Minahasa people. Carved reliefs on the tombs represented the occupations of the dead people. The Minahasa usually brought their own stones to the places they chose as their tombs. From the size of the tomb stones, you can imagine how big and strong the ancient Minahasa people must have been.

Shopping

Manado Town Square is the best shopping mall in Manado. Here you can find souvenirs, beautiful trinkets, modern and up-to-date fashions and even live performances by local bands or famous choirs, such as UNIMA Choir and Gema Sangkakala choir, who are regular winners of the prestigious World Choir Games.

If you get tired and hungry, do not worry; this mall has a big food court with Asian  food, fast food and traditional local food. If you would like to buy a local snack or souvenirs, you can also try Merciful Building, where you can also take a tour to see how traditional foods and snacks are made.

Restaurant

Raja Sate Restaurant is a local restaurant situated right in the center of the city. It provides a variety of dishes, like saté, which involves beef, chicken, mutton or seafood being skewered on thin sticks and baked. Once cooked, the food is served with peanut sauce, chili, onions and soy sauce. It’s absolutely delicious! The restaurant also provides steaks and gado-gado (mixed vegetable salad with peanut sauce dressing). There are even live music entertainers from whom you can request your favourite songs or with whom you can join the band.

For local food, go to Wakeke Street, where you can find tinutuan or Manado porridge, which is made from vegetables mixed with cassava or sweet potato, pumpkin and corn. You can add some chili sauce and soy sauce for even more flavour.

Local Treat

Sweet corn can be found in almost all malls in town. This highly nutritious food is made from sweet corn mixed with cheese and milk. For extra spice, you can add chili sauce.

If you like fruit, especially papaya, try a food called gohu. It is made from papayas cut into thin slices and mixed with water, brown sugar, ginger, onion, chili and vinegar.

Night Out

If you are the type of person who likes to party, there is a place in Manado that perfect for you! It is called Score and is located in the Manado Town Square area. You can party all night here and enjoy live music from famous local bands. There is also a pool table. You’re guaranteed to enjoy your night here!