Ang Thong National Marine Park, 31 kilometres northwest of Koh Samui in southern Thailand, spans an area of 102 km². This includes 42 lush, mountainous islands harbouring wildlife, emerald lakes, deserted beaches and all sorts of nooks, crannies and caves that can seize the imagination. Famously, Ang Thong was Alex Garland’s inspiration for his novel The Beach (now infamously known as the book that became that movie with Leonardo DiCaprio).

Low tide at Ang Thong unlocks secret passageways and kayaking gives you the freedom to explore them. As water levels drop, entrances into the seemingly impenetrable fortress are revealed. One arch is so low that I have to lie down in my kayak and blindly slip into the darkness, propelled by my hands moving along the rock. Suddenly the space opens up. Sunlight faintly trickles in from a small hole. I blink and let my eyes adjust. I’m in some sort of chamber and above me I spy a narrow tunnel that leads upwards, its terminus not visible.

Where does it go? I wonder, letting the fantasy of a hidden paradise blossom in my mind. I’m content to leave this question unanswered; often times the mystery is more satisfying than the reality.

When I look at this photo I get a taste of what I experienced kayaking in Ang Thong. ‘The sublime’ is to feel our smallness in the natural world, to feel overwhelmed by its power and greatness. In turn, this feeling of wonder and humility grants us a connection to that world.

And through this photo I also relive the joy of kayaking – I remember the childlike excitement of everyone getting out onto the water, the first few nervous strokes and wobbles, how people playfully splashed each other before setting off like a paddling of ducks, the bright bellies of the kayaks gliding through the crest and dip of every wave.

Ang Thong National Marine Park was established in 1980 and, since then, has been a haven for wildlife protection efforts and research. As only a small fraction of the area of the park is on land, the majority of its wildlife includes sea-dwelling creatures such as butterflyfish, angelfish, parrotfish, stingray and sharks.

It is also home to important and diverse habitats including mangrove forests and coral reefs. All of these assets contribute to a fantastic visual beauty, but an environment that should not be interfered with directly.

Tours to the area often offer a combination of snorkelling, kayaking and sightseeing.  There is a small visitor centre located on one of the islands, and budget accommodation is also available here.

Connected to the sea through an underground tunnel, the hidden Emerald Lake on Ko Mae Ko (Mother Island) in Ang Thong National Marine Park is a spectacular sight, surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs. Photo by Lee Sheridan

Taking It All In

It’s easy to understand the choice of the park as the setting for a novel. Ninety minutes offshore, Ang Thong is the ultimate secret backpacker’s paradise. Known as the Golden Basin, this protected nature area covers roughly 250 square kilometres and encompasses dramatic seaside cliffs, unusual limestone outcrops, secluded caves and hidden lagoons.

If you’re in a rush, the park is becoming a popular destination for speedboat day tours, although it’s unlikely you will encounter more than one or two other boats all day. Most day trips include lunch and sea kayaking and/or snorkelling. Swimming about in the colourful coral gardens, you can expect to see angelfish, parrotfish and grouper, and glimpses of blacktip reef sharks, sea turtles and oysters.

Kayaking is an exciting way to explore the limestone caves and hidden beaches through Ang Thong National Marine Park. Photo by Lee Sheridan

If you’ve got time to spare, consider spending a few nights on the islands, as there is lots more to explore amongst the deserted beaches and postcard-perfect coves. All of the islands are uninhabited with the exception of Ko Paluay, where there’s a small village of sea gypsies who earn their living from fishing. Savour some fresh island-style seafood at their village restaurant/bar before returning to the campground on Ko Wua Talab. Close to the park headquarters, a few rustic bungalows are also available.

Regardless of the approach you take, one must-see stop is the spectacular emerald lagoon on Ko Mae Ko, also known as Mother Island. This hidden saltwater lake lies at the centre of the island, ringed on all sides by towering limestone walls. There’s a steep hike to the heights, but it’s well worth the climb for the magical views.

Another near-vertical trek departs from the park’s visitor centre on Koh Wua Talab – the largest island – and rewards hikers who reach the summit with panoramic views of the entire Ang Thong park. On your way up, stay alert for spectacled monkeys, dusky langurs, crab-eating monkeys, iguanas, tree frogs and silver-haired bats. More than 50 bird species have also been sighted, including kingfishers, egrets, little herons and sea eagles.

Nearly every traveller to the island of Koh Samui pays at least one visit to the Big Buddha Shrine – where many come to light incense and pray. For anyone arriving by plane, the 12-metre-high golden statue is one of the first sights visible from the air. Photo by Lee Sheridan

On Nearby Koh Samui

Back on the island of Koh Samui, you will find accommodation to suit all styles and budgets, from charming boutique hotels boasting lavish swimming pools and spas to quaint private cottages and secluded Thai-style beachside bungalows.

Beaches are a highpoint of any stay on Koh Samui and some of the most popular are Chaweng, Lamai and Mae Nam. A quick pause in the sun could charge your batteries in time for some adventure, like hiring a moped for the day to explore the island’s tropical interior and more remote roads and coastlines.

Beat the heat with a side trip to the twin waterfalls of Na Muang, where a large natural rock pool is the perfect setting for a cool, midday swim. Explore the old-fashioned fishing village of Hua Thanon, where you can wander streets lined with old teakwood houses, brightly painted fishing boats and superb seafood establishments.

Round out the trip with a visit to the Big Buddha Shrine, a 12-metre-high golden relic that’s visible from a distance of several kilometres.

For more information about Koh Samui, including things to see and do, photos, tours and activities, contact your whl.travel local connection: Teamworkz Consulting at www.samui-hotel-link.com.

Teamworkz Consulting accepting its accolades as Franchisee of the Year 2008-2009 at the whl.travel Asia Pacific regional conference. Left to right are: Rob Shortland, whl.travel Asia Pacific Regional Director; Anne Done, Lee Sheridan and Mouk of Teamworkz; Len Cordiner, CEO of WHL Group

“An amazing effort,” comment Rob Shortland, whl.travel Regional Director for Asia and the Pacific. “Amazing especially when you consider they also won two of the three category awards (service and web marketing). They really worked hard for this over the last 12-18 months and it shows in their results, as well as in the growth of their business. A great job and well done.”

Reward and Recognition

The whl.travel Reward and Recognition (R&R) program is designed to encourage, recognize and reward franchise partners who show improvement in their pursuit of excellence in areas deemed important to the growth and wellbeing of the network, all in the spirit of friendly competition. The 2008-2009 program focused on three categories: sustainability (improvements in the quality and quantity of product with Caring for the Destination ratings); service standards (the ability of each franchisee to hit and surpass the 95% success level for responding to client queries within 24 hours, and to keep published rates current); and Web marketing. There were quarterly awards in each category, category leaders for the year and top honours given to the Franchisee of the Year.

Teamworkz Consulting basically dominated the rankings. While Vientiane sat atop the leader board, the next three positions were filled by Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Phuket (Thailand), and seven of the top eight spots included Koh Samui and Chiang Mai (both in Thailand) – all operated by Teamworkz. Only the whl.travel local partner in Vanuatu – the 2007-2008 whl.travel Franchisee of the Year – broke the run with its fifth-place finish tying with Luang Prabang as winner of the service category of the year. All 10 live sites in Laos and Thailand under Teamworkz management swept the Web marketing category for the year, while one local operator in Marmaris-Datça, Turkey (10th overall), was category leader for the year in sustainability, 87% of its accommodations and tours meriting a Caring for the Destination ranking.

“As much as I would like to take all the credit,” said Lee Sheridan, managing director of Teamworkz, “I have to admit that my team of Mouk, Anne, Vong, Phansee and Thouni have done all the hard work. A big thanks to them!! They are the ones who consistently demonstrate the power of the local connection.”

The R&R program rules will change in 2009-2010 based on important feedback from the local partners. The goal however remains the same: to ‘encourage, recognize and reward’. After all, “Who cares if we win or not again?” said John Nicholls, owner and operator of Vanuatu Hotels. “This R&R competition has greater rewards for all of us in the whl.travel organisation than a single franchisee winning a prize. It is an essential motivator for all of us to improve.”

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As a primary force in the Greater Mekong region, where whl.travel network coverage may soon know no equal, Teamworkz Consulting is the local connection in Laos (the Champasak, Luang Prabang [read more here], Vang Vieng and Vientiane destination sites are live, while Luang Mantha and Xieng Khouane are under construction) and Thailand (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Koh Samui, Pattaya, Phuket and Sukhothai).

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