“I suggest you take an airplane,” he said.

Maybe his advice was because I was a woman travelling alone. Maybe it was because that bus route had been plagued by protesters and blockades in Puno, Peru, for the past month and bus companies were cancelling trips on that road or rerouting them in order to avoid the blockades, adding four more hours to what was normally an eight- to 10-hour long route. Maybe it was because overland border crossings tend to be a little rougher than the customs lines at airports. Or perhaps it was simply because I was in a tourist information office and tourists tend to seek the path of least resistance.

I considered my options: a 14-hour overnight bus ride or a one-hour flight. “I think I’ll hope that the blockades clear up and take the bus,” I said.

The bus terminal is where long journeys to other parts of Peru and South America begin. Photo by Flickr/Martintoy

I made my decision for a combination of reasons. I bought my bus ticket from Cusco to La Paz in part because there was no online booking system for the one Bolivian airline offering flights. I also made my decision because, with La Paz around 12,000 feet above sea level – 1,000 feet higher than Cusco – I figured the bus trip would be better way to adjust to the difference. I made my choice because there was a price difference of about $90 and also because I had been thinking a lot about airplane travel: its heavy carbon emissions and its insulation from the local experience of place and journey in which I believe.

The Long, Local Ride

That night at 10pm, I boarded the first of three buses for a trip that actually lasted over 20 hours. During the first stretch from Cusco to Puno, I got out my blackout eye mask and my travel pillow. Cold, I pulled out my travel towel and used that as a blanket. I was caught in a half-sleep delirium that lasted all the way to Puno, our first stop, at 5am, when we were all unloaded and instructed to wait at the terminal for an hour and a half for a different bus that would take us to the border.

A 90-minute layover at a bus terminal in Peru at 5am? My ticket hadn’t said anything about that. Crankily, I made my way to the upstairs cafe and ordered a chamomile tea. I sat at a table with the woman who had been sitting next to me on the bus and we huddled by a little space heater. She was Peruvian, but had emigrated to Spain several years ago and now she was home on vacation to see her family and to take care of some paperwork. We shared experiences and pondered immigration laws. As we parted ways on different buses, she called out in Spanish, “The time passed so quickly. Take care!”

To cross the border between Peru and Bolivia, bus passengers walk under an arch. Customs and immigrations offices await on both sides. Photo by Flickr/T-Oh! & Matt

My second bus took me to the border. At customs, we were all unloaded again and shuffled through the first line for an exit stamp from Peru. We walked under a brick arch that was the border and on to Bolivian Immigration, the office I had been dreading for months. In retaliation against the U.S. and its difficult visa policy toward Bolivians, Bolivia requires a number of documents and a large fee from Americans seeking tourist visas. I had assembled my passport, my letter of invitation, my yellow fever vaccination card, two passport-sized photos, a bank statement, my itinerary as proof of onward travel and the cash payment.

When I presented the folder to the official, he leered at me. “Nice photo,” he said. “Can I have one to keep?” I blinked, sleep-deprived and dazed. “Is all the paperwork okay?” I asked. He hardly glanced at all the requisite documents that I had collated so carefully. He took the dollar bills and examined them closely. “This one has a tear in it. So does this one. We can’t accept these. The bank will not take them from us.” Five out of six of my bills were unacceptable. Meanwhile, the bus driver was glaring at me for delaying the bus. Frantic, I rifled through my emergency cash reserves and found just enough bills that were acceptably new.

I made my way back to the bus and collapsed into the seat for a six-kilometres sprint into the nearby town of Copacabana, Bolivia. We stopped, unloaded everything again and waited for a different, smaller bus that would take us to La Paz. That left me with just 20 minutes to scramble down the main road in search of a food stand. I returned to the bus stop just in time to reload my luggage and take my seat.

Crossing the Strait of Tiquina on Lake Titicaca, Bolivia, involves unloading passengers and steering the buses onto bus-only barges. Meanwhile, passengers cross on 'lancha' motorboats. Photo by Flickr/jimmyharris

The Final Stretch to La Paz

On the bus, a Japanese woman (also travelling solo) and I shared a package of cookies and watched out the window as the blue landscapes of Lake Titicaca rolled by. Unfortunately just as I was finally feeling fed, warm and comfortable enough to try to nap, the bus stopped again and we were asked to unload.

What was it this time? We had reached the Strait of Tiquina. Here, I realised why we had had to change to a smaller bus back in Copacabana. Buses are transported across the stretch of lake on barges, while the passengers a ferried in lancha motor boats.

At around 6pm, I was finally in a taxi in La Paz on the way to my friend Raul’s house, where I would be visiting for a few days. His mom opened the door and I staggered in with my luggage, dizzy from the journey and the altitude. “You look like you have the hangover of a lifetime,” she laughed. “Drop everything and sit down. I’ll make you some mate de coca.”

The 20-hour journey by bus from Cusco, Peru, ended with a taxi ride in Bolivia's high-elevation capital city of La Paz. Photo by Flickr/Claudius Prößer

Raul joined us at the kitchen table and I relayed anecdotes from the 20-hour bus marathon I had just completed. “Do you wish you had taken a plane instead of the bus?” his mother asked. I paused, undecided. Then Raul spoke up: “I think you’ve had a more Bolivian experience taking the bus. Bus travel in South America – long bus rides – is a part of life for people in South America. The bus trip you’ve just made is standard for us. Some are much longer.”

Now, looking back, the answer is a definitive: No, I don’t wish I had taken a plane from Cusco to La Paz. The 20-hour bus-bus-bus-boat-bus-taxi ride was a rite of passage into the local experience of South American life. And the $90 savings meant I could buy more local alpaca goods here in Bolivia!

Like the monolithic 'el Fraile' (the Monk) in the Kalasaya Temple in Tiwanaku, some of the statues at Tiwanaku, Bolivia, have withstood the test of time. Other stones used to build the main structures have been looted over the years, but the impressive site is still of great spiritual, historical and cultural significance. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Fulsen

Tiwanaku, Bolivia

The city of Tiwanaku (alternative spelling Tiahuanaco) is located at 4,000 metres above sea level in the mountains near the southern shore of Bolivia’s famous Lake Titicaca.The area was home to a pre-Incan society that survived from 1600 BC to 1200 AD; it is considered the cradle of Andean civilisation. The Incas that later colonised the region apparently believed that the ancient Tiwanaku was built by the god Viracocha, who rose from the depths of the lake and created the first humans. Hailed as the Stonehenge of the Americas, the monumental remains of this great culture have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and include several temples, a pyramid, symbolic gates, monoliths and mysterious face carvings.

On June 21st each year, around 5000 people congregate in Tiwanaku to celebrate the summer solstice at the Aymara Indians’ New Year, called Machaj Mara. Popular with followers of New Age religions from around the world, the highlight of the festival is sunrise, when the rays of the sun shine through the temple entrance on the eastern side of the complex. Then it’s time to party. Locals in colourful ceremonial clothing and visitors celebrate together by drinking singani (Bolivian grape brandy similar to pisco), chewing coca leaves, sacrificing llamas and dancing until dawn.

The stunning natural setting of Ulpotha is one of its great attractions. The eight-acre site by a small lake at the base of the Galgiriwiya mountains is considered sacred land, associated with Lord Kataragama, an incarnation of the son of Shiva. The area's seven hills feature in ancient spiritual lore.

Ulpotha, Sri Lanka

The traditional working eco-village of Ulpotha is hidden in an exquisite, secluded, wooded dell at the foot of the Galgiriyawa mountains, about a two-hour drive northwest of Kandy in Sri Lanka. The village has been a pilgrimage site for thousands of years and is now a yoga, spa and Ayurveda retreat open to guests for part of the year.

Ulpotha has been nominated for numerous awards over the years and regularly makes it onto lists of the world’s best spas compiled by glossy magazines, television shows and travel websites. Guests can avail themselves of Ayurveda therapies and yoga classes led by practiced experts, although taking part in these activities is by no means compulsory; anyone preferring to relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings and delectable vegan cuisine can do just that.

The retreat is run as a non-profit and all proceeds from paying guests go to support the locals who manage the attached self-sustaining organic farm and staff the facility when it is open. Other on-site ventures include a biodiverse organic farm, reforestation of village and surrounding land and a free Ayurvedic clinic open year round to villagers (it treats over 100 patients a week).

The statue of Mary, erected in 2001 in Medjugorje, Bosnia & Herzegovina, to mark the 20th anniversary the vision of the Virgin Mary, is located on Apparition Hill, where the event was first witnessed by six Croation children on June 24, 1981. Thousands of pilgrims climb the hill every year, chanting the rosary as they go. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Beemwej

Medjugorje, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Launched onto the spiritual travel map in the summer of 1981 when six children saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary, the small town of Medjugorje, Bosnia & Herzegovina, nestled in the hills close to Mostar and the border with Croatia, has become a premier pilgrimage site for Catholics. Once a community of only 400 inhabitants, mostly farmers, the village now caters to visitors from around the world.

Millions have visited the hallowed spot on the mountainside, now called Apparition Hill, keen to worship at the site of the vision. The local church, St James’s, offers Mass in more than 10 languages, including Croatian, Italian, Spanish and English, in addition to a daily prayer service in the evening and there are plenty of tours and accommodation for the faithful.

Medjugorje literally translates as ‘area between two mountains,’ and the location is simply stunning, so even for the non-religious, there is plenty of distraction. The surrounding area is densely forested and boasts picturesque waterfalls, vineyards (the local wine is not to be missed) and plenty of sleepy villages. One word of advice: accommodation often books up quickly, so it is advisable to check ahead with the whl.travel local connection to avoid disappointment.

The Great Mosque of Kairouan, also known as the Mosque of Uqba, was built by the Arab general Uqba ibn Nafi from 670 AD. It covers an area of 9,000 square metres and is considered the oldest place of worship in the western Islamic world, as well as a model for all later mosques in the Maghreb. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Patrick Giraud

Kairouan, Tunisia

Situated in northern Tunisia, the thousand-year-old city of Kairouan is often regarded as the fourth holiest city in Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. As the oldest Muslim place of worship in Africa, the Great Mosque of Kairouan (first built in 670 AD) has been an important place of pilgrimage for centuries for Muslims, especially those not able to make the long Hajj; it is said that seven trips to Kairouan are equal to one trip to Mecca.

The name Kairouan actually means ‘caravan,’ which is a reference to the city’s beginnings as a stopping place for the desert-trade caravans on the lucrative trans-Sahara trade route. It was turned into an Islamic religious centre in 694 and only Muslims were allowed to enter its walls until relatively recently. As a result it was seen as an outpost of Islam and seat of Muslim scholarship, protecting the faith against the surrounding Jewish and Christian communities.

Although non-Muslims are not allowed inside the mosque, the doors are kept open to allow visitors to see inside and tours to the holy city can be arranged through the whl.travel local connection in Hammamet, an hour’s drive away.

Ahu Tongariki is the largest ahu (stone platform) on Easter Island. Its moai were toppled during the island's civil wars and in the 20th century the ahu was swept inland by a tsunami. It has since been restored with 15 moai, including an 86-tonne monolith that was the heaviest ever erected on the island. All the moai here face sunset during the summer solstice. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Rivi

Easter Island, Chile

Considered to be the world’s most remote inhabited island, Easter Island (otherwise known as Rapa Nui) in the southeast Pacific may have become a part of Chile in the late 1800s, but it is very much Polynesian at heart. This World Heritage Site is famed for the hundreds of towering volcanic stone statues, known as moai, dotted around the island and positioned on massive stone platforms called ahu.

Easter Island is also one of the most mystical places on earth, as so much of its history is shrouded in mystery: why and how were the moai built (they can weigh up to 75 tonnes and measure up to 10 metres in length) and what decimated the civilisation that built them? Locals believe the monoliths represent deceased ancestors. Because of this visitors can look, but, out of respect, mustn’t touch. Some experts suggest that Easter Island is an important point on a grid of sacred sites spanning the globe and it may have originally been settled purely because of the significance of its location. As with everything else concerning the island’s origins, though, nothing has yet been proven!

Lima, the intriguing capital and largest city of Peru, has long been an important hub in Latin America. The Spanish founded Lima in 1535 as a strategic position from which to explore the unknown treasures that the interior country was believed to hold. They had no idea just how accurate this assumption would prove to be.

The children of Peru are even more beautiful than the amazing views. In general, the world-famous hospitality of the locals makes visitors feel more than welcome

Lima still serves as the major gateway for tourism in Peru, with travellers coming from all corners of the globe to discover the secrets and admire the ruins of ancient civilizations, traverse the Amazon jungle and develop an understanding of Peruvian culture. The traffic filtering through the capital has blended with the distinctive local way of life and given rise to an incredible melting pot. This fusion is mirrored in the city’s culinary, architectural and ethnic diversity.

Lima’s unique story has left it steeped in history and culture, promising plenty of things to see and do during one’s time in town. An itinerary could include tours of the fascinating catacombs of the Monastery of San Francisco, a wander through the halls of the most famous Lima museums, going on a shopping spree through the dozens of bustling outdoor markets, admiring the imposing Spanish architecture or learning about the history of the Inca people. As always, make sure to leave plenty of time to sample the various culinary options that will leave the taste buds begging for more.

After a full day, peace of mind comes from knowing that you’ve made your choice of the many Lima hotels, running the gamut from budget backpacker hostels to top-notch, five-star luxury.

With all that Lima has to offer, Local Tours Peru, your whl.travel local connection is ready to spread the word. On behalf of Local Tours Peru team, Victor Barba commented: “We are very proud to be part of the whl.travel network. It consists of a skilled team from whom we have learnt a lot since the beginning – especially me. Now we are glad, thanks to the whl.travel team, to launch the Lima portal. It will allow us to continue working on tourism in a sustainable way.”

The practice of and potential for conscientious tourism in Peru is considerable and the Local Tours Peru team has woven a responsible tourism philosophy into its business model. Among other things, the company has led by example for years by allocating 10% of its income to the Los Apus Association, a group based in Lake Titicaca (in the south of Peru) that assists the Sancayuni Alto and Sancayuni Bajo communities of Amantani Island (close to Puno) with technology, family planning and health. A library and infirmary are currently in the works as vital standard-of-living improvements. “The group also works to educate women in the more effective handling of their finances,” added Barba. “We will continue to be committed to responsible practices in all destinations.”

The launch of the Lima portal expands on the whl.travel presence in Peru, with destinations live in Arequipa and Cusco.

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EN ESPAÑOL / IN SPANISH:

Lima, misteriosa capital y ciudad más grande del Perú, ha sido durante mucho tiempo un centro importante de América Latina. Los españoles fundaron Lima en 1535 como una posición estratégica desde donde poder explorar y descubrir tesoros desconocidos que se creía existían en el interior del país. No tenían idea de cuán exacta podría ser esta hipótesis.

The 'pisco sour' is a national drink of Peru so important that it has its own national day during the first week of February, when this delicious mix is served up all over Lima

Lima aún es considerada la principal entrada para el turismo en el Perú, hasta aquí llegan viajeros procedentes de todos los rincones del mundo para descubrir sus secretos; admirar ruinas de antiguas civilizaciones, recorrer la selva amazónica así como entender y comprender la cultura peruana. El tránsito que fluctúa en la capital desde sus inicios se ha combinado con el distintivo modo local de vida dando lugar a un increíble crisol de culturas. Esta fusión se refleja en la gastronomía, arquitectura y diversidad étnica de su ciudad.

El extraordinario pasado de Lima ha quedado impregnado en su historia y su cultura, que prometen muchas cosas para ver y hacer durante su estadía en la ciudad. Un tour puede incluir visitas a las fascinantes catacumbas del Convento de San Francisco, paseos por las salas de los museos más famosos de Lima, recorridos por centros comerciales o decenas de bulliciosos mercados al aire libre, admirar la imponente arquitectura española o aprender sobre la historia del pueblo inca. Como siempre, asegúrese de tener el tiempo suficiente para degustar las variadas opciones culinarias que dejarán a sus papilas gustativas rogando por más.

Después de un día completo, tendrá la certeza de haber hecho una buena elección entre cualquiera de los hoteles de Lima, que van desde hostales backpacker de bajo presupuesto hasta hoteles de lujo como son los de cinco estrellas.

Con todo lo que Lima tiene para ofrecer, Local Tour Perú, tu conexión local de whl.travel está listo para brindarle todo esto y mucho más. En nombre del equipo local Tours Perú, Victor Barba comenta: “Estamos muy orgullosos de ser parte de la red de whl.travel, la cual esta conformada por un talentoso equipo de profesionales de quienes hemos aprendido mucho desde el principio – especialmente yo. Ahora estamos contentos, gracias a ellos, por hacer realidad el portal de Lima, lo cual nos permitirá continuar trabajando en turismo de manera sostenible”.

La práctica y el potencial del turismo sostenible en el Perú es considerable y el equipo de Local Tours Perú ha incorporado una filosofía de turismo responsable en su modelo de negocio. Entre otras cosas, la compañía ha destinado durante años el 10% de sus ingresos a la Asociación Los Apus, un grupo enfocado en el Lago Titicaca (en el sur de Perú) que asiste a las comunidades de Sancayuni Alto y Sancayuni Bajo en la Isla de Amantani (cerca de Puno) en lo referente a tecnología, planificación familiar y salud. Una biblioteca y enfermería son actualmente algunos de las obras para la mejora del estándar de vida de estas comunidades. “El grupo también trabaja para educar a las mujeres en el manejo eficaz de sus finanzas”, añade Barba, “Continuaremos comprometidos con las prácticas responsables en todos los destinos”.

El lanzamiento del portal de Lima expande la presencia de whl.travel en el Perú, con destinos en Arequipa y Cusco.

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EM PORTUGUÊS / IN PORTUGUESE:

Lima, a intrigante capital e maior cidade do Peru, tem sido um importante hub da América Latina. Os espanhóis fundaram Lima em 1535 visando e supondo uma posição estratégica para explorar os tesouros desconhecidos que o interior do país certamente guardava. Eles não tinham idéia do quanto estavam precisos nessa suposição.

The Pucusana Bay of the Lima district with the same name is a popular summer vacation destination in Peru, notable for its multitude of restaurants and bars

Lima ainda é a principal porta de entrada para o turismo no Peru, com viajantes chegando de todos os cantos do globo para descobrir os segredos e admirar as ruínas de civilizações antigas, atravessar a selva amazônica e desenvolver uma compreensão da cultura peruana. As diferentes culturas introduzidas na cidade com o passar dos anos se misturaram com a maneira distinta de vida local e deu origem a uma mistura incrível. Esta fusão é espelhada na diversidade da cidade, arquitetura e culinária étnica.

O passado único de Lima a deixou cheia de história e cultura, oferencendo assim muitas coisas para se ver e fazer durante apenas uma hora na cidade. Um itinerário poderia incluir passeios das catacumbas do Mosteiro de São Francisco, a vaguear pelos corredores dos museus mais famosos Lima, indo as compras se perder no intenso movimento nas dezenas de mercados ao ar livre, admirando a arquitetura imponente espanhola ou aprender sobre a história do povo Inca. Como sempre, certifique-se deixar algum tempo para experimentar as diversas opções culinárias que vai deixar seu paladar implorando por mais.

Após um dia cheio, a paz de espírito vem de saber que você fez a escolha certa entre os muitos hotéis em Lima, que vão de hostels para mochileiros aos hotéis de luxo, os cinco estrelas.

Com tudo o que Lima tem para oferece, a Local Tours Peru, a sua conexão local da whl.travel, esta pronta para presentar as novidades. Em nome da equipe local no Perú, Victor Barba, comentou: “Estamos muito orgulhosos de fazer parte da rede whl.travel. É constituída por uma equipe qualificada de quem temos aprendido muito desde o início – especialmente eu. Agora nós estamos contentes, graças à equipe whl.travel, para o lançamento do portal de Lima. Ele irá permitir-nos continuar a trabalhar no turismo de forma sustentável.”

A prática e o potencial para o turismo sustentável no Peru é considerável e a equipe Local Tours Peru teceu uma filosofia de turismo responsável em seu modelo de negócios. Entre outras coisas, a empresa ajuda durante anos alocando 10% do seu rendimento para a Associação Los Apus, um grupo baseado no Lago Titicaca no sul do Peru que auxilia o Alto Sancayuni e comunidades Sancayuni Bajo de Amantani Island perto de Puno com a tecnologia, planejamento familiar e saúde. Uma biblioteca e enfermaria estão atualmente em obras vitais como padrão de vida melhorias. “O grupo também trabalha para educar as mulheres na gestão mais eficaz das suas finanças”, acrescentou Barba. “Nós vamos continuar a ser comprometidos com práticas responsáveis em todos os destinos.”

O lançamento do portal de Lima expande a presença whl.travel no Peru, com destinos ao vivo em Arequipa e Cusco.

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EN FRANÇAIS / IN FRENCH:

Lima, mystérieuse capitale et la ville la plus grande du Pérou, durant beaucoup de temps était la plus importante ville hispano-américaine. En 1535, les Espagnoles ont fondés Lima comme situation stratégique d’exploration pour découvrir des trésors qui éxistaient á l’intérieur du pays. Ils ne pouvaient s’imaginer combien cette hypothèse était exacte.

Lima est encore considérée le principal accès touristique du Pérou, d’où procèdent les voyageurs de tous les coins du monde pour découvrir ses secrets et admirer les ruines de ses anciennes civilisations, pour parcourir la fôret amazonienne et pour savourer et comprendre la culture péruvienne. La capitale a émergé d’un transit fluide depuis son initiation, et maintenant se distingue comme lieu où se fondent diférentes cultures. Cette fusion se répercute dans la gastronomie, l’architecture et la forte diversité éthnique de la ville.

L’histoire extraordinaire de Lima et sa culture vous incite de visiter ses sites de grand intérêt. Un circuit peut inclure une visite guidée des fascinantes catacombes du Couvent de San Francisco, une balade dans les plus fameuses salles de musées de Lima, un peu de lèche-vitrines dans un centre commercial ou des marchés typiques, une appréciation de l’architecture espagnole si imposante, ou une leçon sur l’histoire du fantastique peuple Inca, tout en gardant le temps pour savourer la délicieuse gastronomie qui vous fera vous lécher les babines.

Après une journée intense, ce qui sera certain, vous trouverez bon repos selon votre budget dans un grand choix de logement à Lima, soit dans un petit auberge backpacker de bas prix soit dans un hôtel de luxe de cinq étoiles.

Etant donnée tout ce que Lima peut vous offrir, Local Tours Peru, la liaison local de whl.travel, est prête à tout. Au nom de l’équipe Local Tours Péru, Victor Barba s’exprime : « Nous sommes très fiers d’avoir intégré au réseau de whl.travel, une équipe de professionels qui nous ont appris beaucoup depuis le début – surtout moi. Nous sommes contents, grâce à eux, d’avoir lancé ce portail internet pour Lima. Nous pourrons ainsi continuer notre travail touristique d’une manière durable ».

La pratique et la puissance de tourisme éthique au Pérou sont considérables et l’équipe de Local Tours Péru a adopté une philosophie de tourisme responsable. Durant des années, la compagnie a contribué 10% de ses revenus à l’Association Los Apus, un groupe basé dans la région du Lac Titicaca (dans le sud du Pérou) qui soutient les communautés de Sancayuni Alto et Sancayuni Bajo sur l’île d’Amantani (près de Puno) en matière de technologie, de planning familial et de santé. Une bibliothèque et une infirmerie sont en cours de construction pour améliorer le niveau de vie de ces communautés. « Le groupe travaille également pour éduquer les femmes afin qu’elles puissent gérer leur propre finance » ajoute Barba. « Nous continuerons à être attaché aux pratiques responsables dans toutes nos destinations ».

Le lancement du portail internet de Lima développe la présence de whl.travel au Pérou, déjà présent à Arequipa et à Cuzco.

Having noted the presence of facial hair on some of the Monoliths of Tiwanaku, in Bolivia – an enigma given the absence of beards in contemporary Andean people – Heyerdahl repeatedly set out to test the hypothesis that the natives had not only sailed across Lake Titicaca, but also across the ocean and made contact with people of a different race, specifically the Polynesian islanders of the South Pacific. His remarkable successes have offered one explanation to another curiosity he noted: the discovery of endemic South American plants, such as tobacco and coca leaves at Ramses’ tomb in Egypt.

The ancient civilisations of Bolivia, such as the Tiwanaku, Chiripa and the Inca, were known to have navigated on Lake Titicaca using reed boats. There are some theories, however, that the huge stone blocks at Tiwanaku were brought  to the site on this kind of boat from at least 170 kilometres away. Sailing from the extreme northern part of the lake, the Tiwanaku would either have had to make numerous trips for the challenging project or have built several reed boats for the transportation.

Using the same boat-building techniques and boats, Heyerdahl undertook his most famous expedition, Kon-Tiki, sailing from Callao, Peru, to the Tahiti Islands. ‘Kon-Tiki’ is also the name of the curious bearded monolith which inspired him; it can still  be found in the middle of the Semi Underground temple at the Tiwanaku archaeological site. Heyerdahl’s boat’s sail – today displayed at the Kon-Tiki Museum in Oslo – has a picture of the face of this controversial monolith.

Demetrio, whose hands are pictured above, was part of Heyerdahl’s famous boat-building team. Following successful completion of the Kon-Tiki expedition, Heyerdahl wanted more, so he arranged other projects. Ra I was Heyerdahl’s first attempt to cross the Atlantic from Morocco. In 1969, the boat made in Chad with local technologies and local materials such as papyrus foundered. The following year, Heyerdahl arranged a contest at the small Bolivian Island called Suriki on Lake Titicaca and discovered four brilliant boat makers: Paulino Esteban, Demetrio Limachi and his two younger brothers. This foursome led construction of Ra II, which completed the Atlantic journey; the Tigris, which in 1977  demonstrated that trade and migration could have have been possible between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley Civilizations; and many others.

A reed boat is fully made by hand. As the picture shows, straw is woven to create a very thin but resistant cord, which goes all the way from one end of the boat to the other. A regular boat of about four metres long and 1.5 metres wide can be made by one person in two weeks, but the huge boats, such as those used by Heyerdahl, took more than three months to complete by a team of at least 10 people. The life of one of these boats is no longer than one year, since it starts decomposing and gradually disappears – a fully biodegradable navigation system.

Unfortunately, this ancient art is in danger of becoming a lost art, since only a few people still make such boats, and usually only for touristic purposes. Fortunately, Demetrio, who, along with his brothers, was in 1990 recognised as an honoured citizen by the Bolivian Government, has passed on his wisdom to his nephew, Fermin Limachi, who strives to maintain the family art. Fermin actively participates in important traditional craft projects around the world, such as the Aboras 1, 2 and 3 and, in the near future, Abora 4. You can read more about the project on www.abora3.com.