Like ‘slow food’ and ‘slow media,’ ‘slow travel’ is a part of the movement. It’s a reclaiming of what has been lost in today’s hyper pace of life and travel. It’s a state of mind while travelling. It’s a personal approach.

Today, to launch a couple of weeks of focus on Slow Travel we’ve asked the WHL Group staff what their thoughts and experiences with slow travel have been. Their answers were varied yet unified. The common message is simple – when travelling, slow down.

After you’ve read what we think (you can also click on any picture to see it on our Slow Travel Pinterest pin board), please tell us your ideas in the comments space below.

The bamboo railway in Battambang, Cambodia, is a good lesson in slow travel. Photo courtesy of Len Cordiner

“To me, slow travel is less about the number of dots on your travel itinerary and more about the quality/size of those dots. I have been travelling the world for around 40 years now, and have lived for periods of between one and five years in places as diverse as Japan, the USA, Vietnam, Austria, Nigeria, Switzerland and the UK.

Living in all these countries taught me a few things. First was that in all cases my first impressions shifted quite significantly as I got to know the people and the country better. This is not so surprising, but what was a little surprising to me was that it usually took a full year (or more) to really start to get under the skin of a place and feel comfortable, getting to a point where I could call a place ‘home.’

Being a better slow traveller required experience in my case. It is a learned skill; it is a life skill, really. I’ve found that people who are best at slow travel have a lot of empathy, and are decent people (fair, honest generous and considerate). They relate well to others.”
~ Len Cordiner, CEO, WHL Group

Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica, is great place to spot wildlife. With no roads leading here, it's only accessible by boat, slowly. Photo courtesy of Laurel Angrist

“Slow travel, to me, means slowing down your pace to appreciate the journey you take along the way – to see sights that travellers often bypass, to experience local culture far away from the tourist traps, to meet people and get a feeling for their lives while treading lightly on the local environment.”
~ Laurel Angrist, Editor, The Travel Word

A slow travel experience through Mai Chau, Vietnam. Photo courtesy of Jen Aston

“To me slow travel is about developing a sense of belonging in the communities you visit. Learning your way around and finding the amazing bakery or the unusual market that never gets featured in guidebooks. It’s about cultural experiences and making memories. It’s not about the places you saw, but rather about the people you met and what they taught you along the way.”
~ Jen Aston, Director, whl.travel Africa regional office

In France, two wheels are the only way to go, to go slowly, to see the in-between treats. Of course, some cyclists may never get anywhere. Photo courtesy of Ethan Gelber

“My preferred form of travel is by bike. Whether I’m making a short hop as a commuter in my home city or spending weeks (and sometimes months) on the road covering hundreds or thousands of kilometres, I prefer the speed – or, relatively speaking, lack thereof – of self-propulsion. It gives me a sensory-rich sense of place. I feel the rain when it falls; I smell herbs and flowers when I roll by home gardens; I hear the braying of cattle or, better yet, a soothing depth of silence. I see the overlooked treasures between the points of departure and arrival.

Best of all, I meet the locals. It’s impossible and foolish not to, because they impart the true depth of experience that makes slow travel – travel at human speeds – so poignant. For as long as my body allows, and soon with the youthful vigour of my sons to help propel me, I intend to keep to my pedal-powered steed. And hope to continue to be able to claim that, true to this day, I have steered over more ground on two wheels than I have on four.”
~ Ethan Gelber, Chief Communications Officer, WHL Group

Can you do THIS on a plane? Photo courtesy of flickr/moyerphotos

“Does anything truly interesting ever happen on a plane? Watching a rerun of a movie you first saw 15 years ago is not interesting. Folding yourself into a bathroom mere feet from your fellow passengers is not interesting. Picking at a cube of reheated food matter as your elbows vie for space with those of your neighbour is certainly not interesting.

Slow travel may not always be fun, but it’s almost always interesting. If it’s a choice between a plane and a four-hour bus journey sitting next to a goat, give me the goat every time. You get the best views, you get the best price and you get the best stories. Even if you don’t enjoy it at the time, think about how good it’ll be when you get there.”
~ Paul Tavner, Developer, The Travel Word

When you've made it as far as Argentine Patagonia, what's the hurry? Photo courtesy of Cynthia Ord

“Slow travel is lingering somewhere rather than just passing through. It’s unpacking your bag and staying long enough to find a routine. To travel slowly is to leave your lodging without a camera sometimes, and to be able to say ‘I’m living here.’ It’s strolling, sitting, watching and absorbing the beauty in tiny details.”
~ Cynthia Ord, Newsletter Editor, The Travel Word

“Slow travel for me involves heading to a destination without a plan. In this way, instead of running around trying to hit all of the ‘major must-dos,’ I wander through neighbourhoods taking in the sights, smells and sounds of what life is like in a particular destination, giving myself permission to stop where I like and explore any street that beckons me.

Then of course there’s slow travel through slow transport. I’ve ridden through rice paddies on an elephant in Thailand, travelled calmly down waterways in India on a traditional houseboat and been pedalled through the madness of Hanoi traffic by an ultra-calm pedicab driver. When your means of transport changes, so does your perspective.”
~ Michael Franco, Chief Communications Officer, Lime&Tonic

Take a moment to stop and connect with the local people - these moments are what slow travel is made of. Photo courtesy of Klaudija Janzelj

“For me, slow travel is taking the time to hang out with local people. It doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to stay in one place for longer a period; it can be just a few hours, as long as you take the time and get to know a place through its locals. I would skip a sight or two for the opportunity to chat with locals, have a tea or coffee with them, and just talk about their lives, their families or even the weather.”
~ Klaudija Janzelj, Global Sales Manager, Urban Adventures

Part of a Polish backpacking adventure can involve crossing the border between Poland and Slovakia by bike, as there are no buses that take you across. Photo courtesy of Jenna Makowsky

“To me, slow travel means getting to know the vibe of a place by experiencing local, day-to-day life and its routine patterns. I love doing this by going to local coffee shops, eavesdropping on conversations (or even arguments!), taking public transportation, eating local food in local restaurants and listening to music that’s popular at the time. My favourite way to travel slowly, though, is by walking. Walking forces you to slow down and to pay attention to your surroundings. It’s a practice in observation. You catch the small details that are otherwise hard to see when you only spend a few days in a place, or only go to the main tourist attractions. Even little things, like the style of shoes that everyone seems to be wearing, can provide great insight into local trends and habits.

An example of slow travel? I recently spent a month backpacking across Poland by myself and without a car. My goal was to visit the villages that all of my great-grandparents came from. As many of these places were off of dirt roads, I was literally travelling ‘off the grid.’ I was forced to take local public transportation (and when that didn’t exist, to walk or hitchhike); I was forced to learn language skills; and I was forced to rely on the kindness of strangers to provide help. They always did. And I got to know rural Poland in a way that I never would have otherwise. I also learned a lot about myself and my ability to be self-reliant.
~ Jenna Makowski, Content Editor, whl.travel

Taking some time to get to know the locals in Varanasi, India. Photo courtesy of Maureen Valentine

“Slow travel to me is spending a solid amount of time in a place where you can see more than the Lonely Planet highlights, which usually throws the itinerary out the window. It’s about seeing the humanity in the eyes of the local people rather than crossing a destination off the bucket list. It’s about taking the time to step back and let it all sink in.”
~ Maureen Valentine, Director, whl.travel Asia and the Pacific regional office

From Varanasi to New Jalpaiguri, India, slowly, by train. Photo courtesy of Ashley Hiemenz

“Going slowly, travel is much more than ticking off a box on a list. It’s about taking time to meet the locals, learn their stories and, in return, leaving a little bit of your story behind. It’s about discovering every facet of a destination – beyond the major highlights – and taking the chance to discover a place with all your senses.

My slow travel experiences always make the best stories, even if they aren’t always the most pleasant situations! Last month, I decided to take the local train from Varanasi to New Jalpaiguri in India. The train was 12 hours delayed, so I had to spend the night in the cold train station with monkeys, dogs and cows. There weren’t any other foreign tourists there and we slept amongst other locals and families in the station. We met a lot of people during the delay and I’ve told this story at least a hundred times since I’ve returned. If things had run smoothly, then the experience wouldn’t have been nearly as interesting.”
~ Ashley Hiemenz, Product Manager, Gunyah

Slow travel is about long, lazy days and becoming the ultimate 'flâneur.' Photo courtesy of flickr/whltravel

“Slow travel is travelling without a strict schedule or itinerary. It is about staying longer and merging with the local scene, doing the regular things you would normally do in your own place: taking a bus, sending a correspondence, buying groceries. It is talking to a stranger for a long time and enjoying even the silent minutes of no talking. It is walking with your camera and realising that at the end of the day you took less than a handful of photos. It is entering an appliance shop and not buying anything, just to watch the people and their ways. It is about being the ultimate flâneur every time you walk down a street during your holiday.”
~ Andre Franchini, CEO, Hotel Link Solutions

“Slow travel to me means taking in the sights, sounds, smells and history of a destination, connecting with the locals and experiencing their culture, their cuisine and day-to-day lives, so you walk away with a real understanding of place and lasting memories of its people. The best way to do this is to take your time, being adventurous and using the slowest form of transport available, preferably ‘shanks’s pony.’”
~ Rob Shortland, CEO, whl.travel

A slow food market in Latvia. Latvia's new tourism slogan is "Best Enjoyed Slowly." Photo courtesy of Anda Cirule

“To me slow travel is about becoming a part of local life of the destination you visit. It’s about connecting to a place, its people and culture. It is something totally different from trips where you just follow the list of all ‘must-sees’ and after getting home you realise that you actually need a holiday to recover. Slow travel means to me that I can stay in one place long enough to have a favourite dish in the local restaurant.”
~ Anda Cirule, Director, whl.travel Europe and the Middle East regional office

Slow travel is straying from the postcard sites and creating your own picture-perfect moment. Photo courtesy of Wallace Faria

“Devagar se vai ao longe. This old Brazilian saying defines quite well what slow travel is to me. It means something like ‘slowly going further.’ In my opinion, haste is the enemy of the perfect trip. Rent an apartment instead of staying in a hotel. Read the local newspaper. Stray from the postcard sites and get lost!”
~ Wallace Faria, Director, whl.travel Americas regional office

Slow travel is about making local friends along the way, like here, in Yemen. Photo courtesy of Luke Ford

“Slow travel is about slowing down your travels to fully appreciate a place, its people and their culture… and making a few friends on the way.”
~ Luke Ford, CEO, Gunyah

Some transportation, like the Trans-Mongolian Express, lets you take a very long look at the world around you. Photo courtesy of Adrian Cordiner

“Slow travel is about the journey, not just the destination. Being excited about where you’re going, but being just as excited by how you get there, the people you meet, the sights you see and the experiences you have along the way. About slowing down to acknowledge that the journey you’re on allows, for the briefest moment, the chance to peer into someone else’s life and to share that moment in time with them.”
~ Adrian Cordiner, CEO, Green Path Transfers

Global Basecamps, in collaboration with Maasai Wanderings, contributes to a variety of ecotourism and community outreach programs in Tanzania. In 2004, Maasai Wanderings visited a Maasai village called Ilkurot (which means “dusty place”) just north of Arusha, and saw that the schools were in desperate need of supplies and repairs, and there was no nursery school.

Global basecamps and and Maasai Wanderings are two travel operators that support communities in Tanzania. Photo courtesy of Maasai Wanderings/The International Ecotourism Society (TIES)

Following this visit, the Ilkurot community project was developed to raise funds for the school and to make education more accessible to the Maasai children. The Ilkurot community project began by setting up a nursery school so the village children would be able to enter the Tanzanian education system and would hopefully then move onto primary and secondary school and beyond.

People in Ilkurot live below the Tanzanian poverty line and earn an average of less than $200 per year. The cost of schooling is about $40-$50, making it difficult for children to receive an education. With the help of donors and volunteers, Global Basecamps and Maasai Wanderings strive to make education easily accessible and free to the Maasai children of Ilkurot, with the hope that educated Maasai will be better equipped to aid in retaining their ancient culture.

Welcome Wall, Ilkurot Nursery School, Tanzania

Maasai Village Experience Tours

In 2005, the Ilkurot Nursery School opened and had 45 students between the ages of 5 and 7. The class was held in a small room, but the number of students quickly outgrew the small facilities. As a way to raise additional funds for the school, Global Basecamps in Tanzania developed ‘Maasai Village Experience Tours’, giving travelers the unique opportunity to interact with and learn from the Maasai people. These cultural tours helped raise funds to build a new classroom for the Ilkurot School and continue to help build the Ilkurot community project.

The new classroom was opened in January 2006 with a large increase of students. To accommodate all the new students, the school began holding two sessions a day. The five-year-old group consisted of approximately 110 students and was held in the morning, while the afternoon lessons consisted of about 100 six-year-old students. At each session the students are served uji (ground corn porridge with sugar and oil), the staple diet of the Maasai people.

Porridge time at Ilkurot Nursery School, Tanzania

Community Members Benefit from Ilkurot Nursery School

In 2007, over 1,000 textbooks were purchased, and for the first time students had guides to their studies. During this year, funds were also used to plaster the classroom and fit glass windows, which were previously wooden windows, allowing dust in and making the classrooms very dirty. In an effort to control the amount of dust in Ilkurot, a tree and grass planting project was put in place and a 2,000-liter water tank was installed. Almost 500 trees were planted in an effort to limit the dust that flies around and caused many eye infections and dry coughs.

The school was able to employ a Tinga Tinga artist to stay in the village for a few weeks to paint murals and educational drawings on the classroom walls. The school was also able to build a playground – the first playground in the school and in the district – with a basic football pitch, netball court, and volleyball court that allowed for sports education in their curriculum. In 2009, Ilkurot saw many more changes, including the completion a library/teacher’s resource center.

In addition to providing valuable educational opportunities to children, Ilkurot Nursery School also supports teachers and cooks by offering employment, and promotes additional cultural tourism throughout the village. Recently, a building was constructed to include a kitchen, store, staff room and changing room with a 3,000-liter water tank, and six new toilets. Further, the children now all have school uniforms, made as part of another community project that allows women with disabled children to stay at home and earn an income by creating a sewing business.

Students on the playground, Ilkurot, Tanzania

Maasai Village Life and the Importance of Education

In Maasai villages, young boys are typically sent away with their father’s cattle and accompanied by older morani (warriors) for 3-5 years tending to the cattle. Therefore, the Nursery School has a higher attendance of girls than boys. The girls that attend school also have chores they must complete before or after their lesson. By the time the students are 5 or 6, their mothers may have had 2 or 3 more children, for which the young girls are responsible for. They feed, bathe and carry the smaller children.

The lifestyle of young males and the responsibilities expected of young girls were a hurdle in the Ilkurot community projects. While trying not to disrupt the norms of Maasai life, the school tries to encourage education in the community. The school continually changes lesson schedules and requirements to make it more acceptable to the Maasai community.

The main task of the nursery school is teaching the children Swahili (Tanzania’s national language). Since the primary school curriculum is taught in Swahili only, children who do not learn the language will not be able to advance to primary school. The nursery school also teaches some English phrases because secondary school is taught only in English.

Ilkurot Nursery School classrooms, Tanzania

About Global Basecamps

Global Basecamps is a specialty travel company designed to simplify the process of researching and booking sustainable hotels, lodges and private tours worldwide. Travel at your own pace with a custom itinerary or simply find accommodations and excursions so that your trip priorities are met and you have maximum flexibility while on the road. Global Basecamps is the North American representative for Maasai Wanderings.

The Transcarpathia region of southwest Ukraine is a unique area, a tourism pearl sometimes called "Little Switzerland." Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Tetyana

Today, this grand state beckons travellers to explore its intricate church architecture and delicate frescos, bustling cities and authentic rural villages, and gorgeous natural resources. Along the way, you will discover that there are plenty of cultural myths and stories, the kinds about unique local archetypal characters that will capture your imagination and keep you coming back for more local travel experiences in Ukraine.

Here are just three stories with which to whet your appetites.

The Babushkas of Ukraine’s Cities

Babushka (in Russian) or babusia (in Ukrainian), as Ukrainians call their elderly ladies, are an inevitable sight in any city or town in Ukraine, no matter where you go. Stroll along the cobbled sidewalks in Lviv and you will see them, chatting and singing folk songs in front of the impressive Opera Theatre. Hop on a train headed east and you will be greeted by their curious eyes and voices selling homegrown apples and freshly baked buns with jam or poppy seeds. Head further east and you will find them sitting on every street bench, letting the world pass by in the greenery of Kharkiv’s parks, or selling everything from sunflower seeds to flower bouquets in Donetsk.

Kyiv (Kiev) is the capital city of Ukraine. Photo courtesy of IloveUkraine/Marynka

The cultural phenomenon of babusia in Ukraine is directly tied to the country’s troubled history. The 20th century saw an epic tug of war waged between five empires parceling up the country, two world wars fought on Ukrainian territory, tragic famine and a repressive communist regime. Together, these afflictions laid waste to most of Ukraine’s men, leaving behind the now-familiar crowds of babushkas. It is the stories of these women that make Ukraine so different from other cities in Central Europe.

But there is much more to Ukraine’s cities. Charming Lviv will leave you with the smell of freshly ground coffee, the memory of cosy cobblestone streets in a World Heritage-listed town centre and the air of jazz and classical music. Kyiv, the capital city of Ukraine, has the ruthless bustle of a teenager, but also wide promenades and maple trees, the sparkling golden domes of St. Sophia Cathedral and painful insights at the National Chernobyl Museum. Further east and south, grandiose Tsars’ palaces pop up along the Black Sea shore, Tatar mosques call for prayer, and statues of Lenin and Karl Marx crowd the streets of like Donetsk and Odessa.

The Hutsul highlanders of Ukraine are an ethno-cultural that group that still uses ages-old traditional practices and wears traditional clothing for major celebrations. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Traditional Hutsul Highlanders

Far from the urban scapes of Ukraine’s cities are traditional rural villages dotting the hills of the Carpathian Mountains. Lush pine forests and hard-to-access trails make it difficult for many travellers to explore the countryside of the Hutsuls, an ethno-cultural group of Ukrainian highlanders. Unlike more heavily explored areas in Central Europe, Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains remain largely cut off from the main tourist routes. You will find few marked walking trails; organised campsites are virtually non-existent. Most highland roads can only be reached via four-wheel-drive vehicles, on foot or by the horse cart. Few if any people speak English, and most still live by the centuries-old customs of their ancestors.

Hutsul society was traditionally based on forestry and logging, as well as cattle and sheep breeding. Right up until the present day, the month of May marks the Hutsul’s most exciting and colourful celebrations, a time when Hutsul shepherds leave their homes to spend three months herding flocks of sheep and producing delicious cheese known locally as brynza.

Stepping into a Hutsul house in Ukraine is a trip back in time. One of the joys is a taste of delicious homemade cheese known locally as 'brynza.' Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

Stepping into a rural Hutsul house is a trip back in time: you can sample delicious homemade bread, enjoy fresh water from deeply-dug wells, taste vegetables from the local fields and even try on colourful Hutsul clothes, still worn on major village celebrations.

Hutsul people are also famous for their incredible craftsmanship. At the local bazaar, you may find beautifully and intricately decorated eggs, ornate clothing and delicate woodwork.

Travellers lucky enough to spend a day or two in the Hutsul villages during traditional holiday celebrations will come away mesmerised by the whirlwind of colours, timeless customs, plentiful dinners and authentic culture carefully preserved on the outskirts of Europe.

The Carpathian Mountains of Ukraine in winter. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Vast Expanses of Nature

The Dnieper – Ukraine’s largest and Europe’s second-longest river – is bested only by the Danube. So great is its presence, ”Rare is the bird that flies to the middle of the Dnieper,” wrote Nicolai Gogol, a well-known Russian and Ukrainian writer. And while the Dnieper is definitely not the majestic waterway it was during Gogol’s lifetime, it remains an impressive and imposing sight, a symbol of Ukraine’s stunning natural landscapes.

Beyond the Dniepr, due to the sheer vastness of the territory, Ukraine can satisfy even the pickiest nature lover. Dense forests in the north hide countless rivers, marshes, lakes and swamps. In the west the gentle peaks of the Carpathian Mountains tower over the lush valleys, underground caves and World Heritage-listed beech forests boasting an abundance of wildlife. The south brings the warm sunshine, pebbled beaches and the grand Black Sea.

The Dniepr River is Ukraine's largest and Europe's second-longest river. Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Yevgen Pohulaylo

Whether you choose to go hiking in the Carpathian highlands, kayaking along the winding rivers or just enjoy sipping your morning coffee at the artsy cafes of Lviv, don’t forget to listen to the background stories of caring babusias, welcoming Hutsuls, cheerful women, ambitious youngsters, fearless Cossacks and countless others that form an eccentric and yet truthful-to-the-core mosaic of Ukraine, Europe’s largest unexplored frontier.

For an up-close glimpse of local Ukrainian culture – the unique combination of a proud and cosmopolitan European past, eclectic communist history and newly reasserted independence – try the wide range of Ukraine holiday packages available though Gunyah, a marketplace of authentic local experiences and tours for independent travellers.

Screenshot of the Bahamas page on Gunyah.com, the website shortlisted by the Caribbean Web Awards 2012

An Award for Quality Websites

Unlike most travel awards, the Caribbean Web Awards 2012 focused on the websites that represent the travel companies, not on the travel companies themselves. As stated on the Caribbean Web Awards 2012 website, special attention was given to best practices in online marketing with an eye toward recognizing websites with excellent graphic communication, superb online copy and salesmanship, and laudable examples of strategies and techniques for enhanced site conversion.

Through its recently launched online presence, designed with all of this in mind, Gunyah dishes up memorable short-break package holidays and vacations managed by a dedicated network of passionate people all around the world. With locals in every destination and a clear responsible travel vision, Gunyah is more in tune with what makes a truly authentic local travel experience.

“We wanted to convey the authenticity and inspiration of our short breaks from the moment users started researching their trips, something that combined the spontaneity of independent travel with the comfort of a package holiday,” commented Luke Ford, CEO of Gunyah, about the unique look and feel of Gunyah.com. “The experience begins from the moment they start corresponding with our local operators. We wanted the navigation functionality to be simple and so it’s search by destination, but we also wanted to include a search by experiences for those looking for, for example, diving or a cultural break. We were thrilled to have been shortlisted.”

A screenshot of one of the packages available in the Bahamas on the Gunyah.com website

A Work in Progress

At the present time, Gunyah lists 170 short-break package holidays in 46 countries with an additional 600 contracted or under construction. Gunyah is working with 83 local partners in a total of 78 countries, including developed markets in North America, Europe and Australia, and emerging-market economies across Africa, Asia, South America and elsewhere.

The short breaks – all of which consist of carefully selected accommodation, tours and activities – average four to six days in duration, but can also extend to 12 days. Regardless of length, Gunyah’s goal is to evoke an authentic experience through each package by connecting travelers to the people, communities, food and culture of each destination.

“We are only at the early stages with product development in the Caribbean, but this attention from the Caribbean Web Awards provides us with even more motivation to include more fascinating destinations in the region,” added Ford. “We have some amazing experiences in San Salvador, Bahamas, with diving, fishing, nature and eco walks, history and adventure, something for everyone! Our local partners in the Bahamas deserve credit for all of their hard work developing such unique experiences.”

The kind of idyllic setting found on of the many islands that make up the Bahamas

The Winning Announcement

The TravelMole Caribbean Web Award winners were announced on the eve of the Caribbean Marketplace held in Nassau, Paradise Island, Bahamas. In their second year, the awards were run by the Caribbean Hotel and Tourism Association in association with TravelMole, one of the largest online travel trade communities in the world, and LeadGenerators, the UK’s specialist online marketing agency for the travel industry.

The awards were presented by TravelMole’s Graham McKenzie, who praised the shortlisted websites but called for a stronger focus on online marketing within the Caribbean: “With the obvious exception of the shortlisted sites, the general standard of nominations were very poor and for the benefit of all really needs to improve. The importance of a good online presence for all tourism businesses cannot be overstated and at this time many do not make the most of the opportunities presented.”

Volunteering abroad, also known as voluntourism, is on fire. More and more, all kinds of people are looking for travel experiences where they can serve the under-served, globally. Who can disagree with such noble intentions? In fact, voluntourism is often hailed as one of the most constructive forms of tourism out there.

Voluntourism Economics

Like anything new and fast-growing, voluntourism can go awry. Opportunistic travel companies commercialize what should be kept in the non-profit sector, charging voluntourists a hefty premium. NGOs use voluntourists as a fundraising mechanism, taking more advantage of their willingness to pay than their willingness to work. As voluntourism gains scale in certain destinations, it can even affect local labor markets in ways the voluntourists never imagine. Rightly so, skeptics have started blowing whistles and calling for best practices.

Two Sustainable Bolivia volunteers paint a flagpole at Atendi. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

The economics of voluntourism is a hot issue in the larger debate about voluntourism’s impacts. Where are voluntourist dollars going? How much stays with the coordinating organization, and how much enters the local economy in a meaningful way? If you’re thinking about volunteer travel, these are the kinds of questions that are worth asking. If you’re an organization that is coordinating volunteer tourists, these are the kind of questions that are important to answer. Transparency is key.

Volunteering with Sustainable Bolivia in Cochabamba

Sustainable Bolivia is a registered non-profit organization in Cochabamba, Bolivia’s third-largest city. Here, it partners with 28 local non-profit organizations to coordinate volunteer and internship opportunities for international students and professionals. The organizations span a number of fields of development: public health, the environment, education, human rights, and social services.

Volunteers choose which organization they would like to get involved with, depending on their experiences, educational background, and interests. With its diverse network of local non-profit organizations, Sustainable Bolivia is in a good position to match volunteer skills and resources with the places in and around Cochabamba that could use them the most.

Engineers who want to work on appropriate technology solutions find a good match with Energetica, which works on alternative energy sources in the rural communities of Bolivia. Doctors and health care professionals have a number of choices for applying their skills, like Atendi where they can work with kids with disabilities, or Centro de Salud Cerro Verde if their interest is in reproductive health. For creative types and performers, Sustainable Bolivia has an artist residency program and a partner organizations like Performing Life, which provides underprivileged youth with workshops to develop juggling and other circus show skills.

Screen shot of mini grant reporting on the Sustainable Bolivia website.

The Mini Grant Program at Sustainable Bolivia

In 2009, the administration of Sustainable Bolivia started thinking about how they could make volunteer impacts more transparent. They realized that volunteers were the ones who were working directly in the field, in close contact with local partner organizations. The volunteers could see firsthand the most pressing needs on site at their projects.

In February of that year, the innovative new mini grant system was introduced. It’s a system where volunteers can decide exactly how their money is used in the community, and Sustainable Bolivia has one more way to measure and report contribution its to parter organizations. How does it work? For each month that a volunteer works with Sustainable Bolivia, $75 goes toward a mini grant. So, a volunteer that stays for three months has $225 to use toward their volunteer project in the way they think is most appropriate.

In order to apply their mini grants, volunteers are required to fill out an application explaining their project plans and budget. Then, once it has been approved, the volunteer is also required to submit receipts. This process allows for an organization-level reporting system on how volunteer money is being spent.

In keeping with the transparency that Sustainable Bolivia values, it publishes all mini grant activity on its website. On this fascinating page, viewers can see what each volunteer has done with each local partner organization. You can see a short description of the project, the application form, and the receipts showing where the money was spent. More than an ingenious system that ensures transparency about volunteer funds, it’s an elegant composite portrait of the kinds of activities that volunteers can do at Sustainable Bolivia and what the organization is about.

Blogging and Hula Hoops

I applied to spend time at Sustainable Bolivia through their artist residency program, asking if online content creation counts as a form of art. They were happy to accept me as their resident writer. Once I arrived, I had a meeting with Michelle, the national director, about the best way to use my volunteer time. Their website blog had become a little neglected, she said. I loved the idea of helping bring it back to life. By the end of my three month stay, I had five new posts published on the blog.

Hula Hooping with Performing Life members in Cochabamba, Bolivia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

As my time there passed, I was looking for ways to apply my own mini grant funding. The mini grant program inspired me to close my laptop and get involved on the ground level. My first week there, I had seen a show put on by Performing Life, amazed by the talent of its kids in juggling, diabalos, and unicycles. Since I’m a circus hobbyist myself, I was especially impressed by 13-year-old Scarlet and her fire poi spinning skills. I wanted to learn from her. I noticed that the organization could use some hula hoops to make its circus equipment more complete, and I started planning a project for my mini grant resources.

With my mini grant money, I went to the massive La Cancha local market and bought everything needed to make high-quality, performance-level hula hoops. I found PVC tubing, connectors, duct tape, electrical tape, and even some shiny decorative tape to finish the hoops with color and flair. My mini grant funding went a long way in Bolivia. By the end of my time there, I had made 15 new hula hoops, which were a big hit with the Performance Life kids.

All the materials for hula hoop construction had only cost about $75. There was still more mini grant funding left. I wanted to donate it directly to Performing Life, but Michelle explained to me that it rolls over to the next volunteer working with Performing Life. In this way, they can keep things totally transparent and visible about how the funding is spent. It gave me another idea – maybe I’ll go back and be that next volunteer myself.

To apply for an internship or volunteer opportunity at Sustainable Bolivia, get in contact through the Sustainable Bolivia website.

My name is Markus Neuer and I lead the Tiger Trail team in Luang Prabang, Laos. Born in Germany, I always had a passion for adventure and travelling but, even more important, for other people. Through our Fair Trek in Laos projects, I have found a way to perfectly combine community work with tourism and bring people together from all over the world to work with Lao communities.

The views are spectacular on a half-day Tiger Trail mountain trek in Nong Khiaw, in the Luang Prabang province of northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Our team is international, yet all working and living in Luang Prabang. A big part of our company is regular interns, volunteers and students giving support. Our team members are currently from the US, Thailand, France, Germany and of course Laos. Tiger Trail was founded in 2000. I took over the company in 2008, and with the help of our incredible team it has become what it is today. We currently employ about 50 full-time staff members.

My Inspiration, Our Inspiration

I believe that the world is not fairly developed and even its most beautiful landscapes can be the stage for poverty and degradation. I aim to approach these problems by seeking a better way. We make an impact through an ongoing effort to care for the community and our environment, while enjoying the beauty and diversity of the world itself. If everybody would do this, we could have a better world, not just better adventures.

Tourists work alongside villagers harvesting rice near Huay Fai village (about 20 kilometres from Luang Prabang), Laos, during one of the Fair Trek tours offered by Tiger Trail. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Fair Trek Is a Key Part of Our Adventure Travel Company

Fair Trek in Laos is an innovative community-based-tourism project aiming to assist in the development of communities in need. In return, it allows visitors to have access to remote villages by trekking, biking and kayaking, to learn and absorb different cultural experiences in Laos. Fair Trek is the first responsible-tourism project in Luang Prabang, and has been recognised widely as an example of community-based responsible tourism in the Mekong sub-region.

Fair Trek Was First Founded in 2007

I initiated Fair Trek in cooperation with local nongovernmental organisations and the government. It resulted from striking and obvious needs that I have experienced myself during normal treks through surrounding communities and in other countries. After the initiative had been started up, reviewed and adjusted, the operation of the Fair Trek project in Luang Prabang was transferred and is now partly run locally by the Provincial Tourism Department and a pool of operators, raising awareness toward development of tourism and community alike.

After years of development, Tiger Trail has continued to spread the Fair Trek initiative out to other areas of northern Laos, Nong Khiaw and Muang. Tiger Trail is also adopting the philosophy of “voluntourism” for an ecological school project, The Clay School Project, benefiting both the Fair Trek communities and volunteers.

Each tour that is within the Fair Trek project pays into a community fund! Depending on the setup, the funds are handled by local government institutions or the communities directly. The village funds are raised from each Fair Trek tour allowing each visitor to have an impact. Villagers are able to submit a request for needed financing, or propose their ideas on how to invest in improvements and development that benefits the whole community. A great side effect has been created through visitors who wish to assist more through donations. Through this the communities can achieve additional support through the awareness that Fair Trek provides to them.

The Villagers Also Benefit Directly

The villagers make an income selling food and accommodation, as well as traditional self-made handicrafts to the visitors. Individual villagers can earn from guiding around the communities and from helping out in tourism activities. Rental fees for land, blankets, cooking material and other assisting services also contribute to the local income. Our tours are not only “fair” in terms of money; they also preserve local culture and traditions. Having visitors gives the villagers an opportunity to spread and preserve their traditional performances and practices such as singing, dancing and playing local music.

Insider Tip

If you are coming our direction, give us a visit. Luang Prabang is a provincial capital city of Laos, where time still seems to stand still. Take a waterfall trek at Kuang Si and hang out on the Mekong to enjoy the stunning view. Also I recommend you visit Big Tree Café for a great photography exhibition and enjoy some locally grown coffee at either JoMa or Saffron Café, both engaged in social projects in the region. (Get more of the inside word on Luang Prabang.)

Volunteers work with locals to construct the foundation, columns and roof of the Clay School in Ban Naluang, near Nong Khiaw, in northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Attractions in and around Luang Prabang are diverse, including various waterfalls, caves, ethnic minorities, textiles and handicrafts, elephant rides and mahout elephant-care experiences. As part of the UNESCO World Heritage reconstruction plan, new buildings have been limited and old houses and streets received refurbishment to keep Luang Prabang a magical place. The most practical way to explore the city is by bike or on a walk. It’s really that small! On our various tours, selected sights and highlights can be combined on day trips and offer individual experiences with experienced and friendly guides.

For a short note on local weather: dry season lasts generally from October through April and wet season comes from the beginning of May to September. BUT I personally love and recommend the rainy season with its lush tropical green and powerful rain showers – it’s spectacular. Yearly average temperature is around 28°C, but it can fall to 15°C or 10°C during the cold season and even lower in the mountains.

The village ("ban") of Naluang, northern Laos, set amidst a stunning backdrop of karst mountains and lush jungle. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

View from Office Window

Well, there’s not much to see but at least we see most of the visitors as they fly into Luang Prabang airport, just about 300 metres from our office. We also have a decent view of a metal shop and a cement work space on the opposite side of the road.

Thanks to Markus for sending this through to us! If you’re interested in experiencing one of their fantastic trips, why not try Trekking in the Jungle or Living as a “Mahout” on an elephant sanctuary. Opportunities also exist for those interested in Volunteering in a Traditional Akha Village or Helping to Build a Clay School for a Small Village in Laos.

We are nevertheless once again proud to present our Photos of the Year – the travel pictures of the year 2011 that most captured the imagination of The Travel Word team and a group of expert external judges. Unlike our Photo of the Year 2010, this year (2011), we had a tie for first place.

Click on the image below for more information about them. See further below for the judges’ comments about them and the rest of the shortlist.

Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal

Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

About the Photo of the Week and the Photo of the Year

A bit more than two years ago, we started featuring one picture each week (or, lately, every other week) on The Travel Word. We spotlighted favourite images pulled from our growing collections on Flickr.

We then asked the photographer or owner of each selected Photo of the Week to submit a short and revealing text about it – covering the subject of the photo, the general location, the experience of taking the picture, technical aspects of photography etc.

These text-image combinations have proven to be very popular. We believe that this has a lot to do with the special emphasis we have placed on the honesty of the images, all taken or sourced by our partners, who are local travel experts in their destinations. Through their eyes, and given their knowledge of what makes their homes unique, we felt confident that were discovering something special.

The Shortlist

Our methods were decidedly unscientific. For each month, The Travel Word team singled out one photo of the month. To this list of 12 we added afew wild cards that had made a particular impression on us. This shortlist is what we sent to a group of five skilled photographers for their assessment.

Below are the nine images, ranked in order, that caught the judges’ fancies along with their comments. We thank the judges for their contribution and encourage you to learn more about their work.

.

+ WINNERS: PHOTOS OF THE YEAR 2011: Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal AND Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

Comments about Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal, photo and text by Navin M. Shrestha:
“This photo does an excellent job of capturing both the manic movement of the crowd and the ethereal nature of the temple.” — Mike Richards

“Here’s a unique image of the Durbar Square of Patan that not only does a good job of displaying the beauty of the temple of Lord Krisha, but bringing the square to its full cultural context by choosing to photograph it on Krishna Janmashtami (the birth anniversary of Krishna), full of devotees, prayer and a long enough exposure that bleeds the light and gives the scene a more spiritual climate.” — Arog Vila

“This picture is amazing for the fact that at first glance it could reflect a scene dating back centuries. Truly a timeless shot.” — Matt Stabile

.

Comments about Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, photo by Ward Graham, accompanying text by Shafina Bandali:
“Luck is the final element, together with well-studied technique, good planning and plenty of patience, that results in this gorgeous golden-hour capture of two cheetahs looking back at us. This image has a rich tonal range accentuated by a pronounced vignette, which in this case does more than spotlight the cheetahs, it completes the interplay of light within the frame.” — Arog Vila

“Great light, composition and pose, it’s almost tells the viewer that these wild cheetahs are longing for some patting.” — Rafael Pinho

“From a technical perspective, the depth of field and vignetting are just right to single out the pair of cheetahs. They appear curious, ominous and regal all at once.” — Mike Richards

.

+ RUNNERS UP: Church of Tisco, Arequipa, Peru AND Beautiful Waters of the Bocas Islands, Panama

Comments about the Church of Tisco, Arequipa, Peru, photo by Alberto Gonzalez, accompanying text by Mariel Gonzalez:
“Travel photography at its best evokes faraway experience in a single image, and this shot of a remote Peruvian church does just that: the totemic ochre ornamentations and roaming landscape transport the viewer to the high fields, far from home.” — Linus Gelber

“Just the right amount of grunge and color provide a contemporary artistic take on a classic stone structure.” — Mike Richards

.

Comments about the Beautiful Waters of the Bocas Islands, Panama, photo by ATP, accompanying text by Melissa:
“Transparent green water makes any destination appealing, even if it’s all there is to it. This image portrays the dream-like environment all urbanites long for.” — Rafael Pinho

“I’m a sucker for visions of tropical paradise, probably because I so rarely experience tropical paradise. A jetty with amenities, lifted above clear entrancing waters, with balmy skies above – does it get better than this?” — Linus Gelber

.
.
.

OTHER FAVOURITES OF OUR JUDGES:

+ Sleepy Lions, Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda, photo by Steve Cunliffe, accompanying text by Nicola Swann

Comment:
“As anyone who has gone on safari knows, finding lions is the ultimate reward, and to find them in such a natural state must have been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Oddly enough, this also looks like my family’s living room after Thanksgiving dinner.” — Matt Stabile

.
.
.

+ The Children of Yakel Village, Tanna, Vanuatu, photo and accompanying text by John Nicholls

Comment:
“Seven strange children range along the ladder entrance to a treehouse home on Tanna Island; they may never hold an Xbox controller or argue the merits of teen fashion, but they smile, gaze, consider and go about their business just like children anywhere else. The wild differences highlight that we are, at heart, pretty much the same.” — Linus Gelber

.
.

+ Smile from a Little Girl, Cusco, Peru, photo by Pieter Roos, accompanying text by Fernando Carrasco

Comments:
“This heartwarming portrait of a little girl is technically sound and beautifully communicative of the colorful personality beyond the girl’s colorful costume. An image that is very easy to connect with, well done!” — Arog Vila

“This girl’s amazing smile reminds me of what is truly great about travel: the people.” — Matt Stabile

.
.

+ Migratory Birds, Lijiang, China, photo and accompanying text by Lily Zhang

Comment:
“A skein of geese, which might have just recently taken off, before forming a V, makes this a chaotic but amusing composition where each element has a certain clumsiness to it.” — Rafael Pinho

.
.
.

The Judges

We sincerely thank our five judges for the time and effort taken to review our shortlist. We value their opinions and their readiness to share them with us. Please take a moment to check out their work.

Linus Gelber is a photographer from New York City, where he shoots cityscapes and live performances (notably burlesque) and sees way too many movies, if such a thing is possible. His work is represented by Getty Images. Linus would like to go to Antarctica one day, and if you knew how he felt about New York winters you’d think that was weird too.

Born in Brazil, Rafael Pinho took up photography after finishing his architecture studies. He set out as a freelancer in 2005 in Belo Horizonte and spent the following years between Berlin, New York, Reykjavík and São Paulo. His work has been shown at the Florence Biennale (2011) and the Biennale di Roma (2012) and appeared in the The Wall Street Journal, Modern Painters (US), Forum AID (Sweden), FFW Mag! (Brazil), Nýtt Líf (Iceland), Trip and Tpm (Brazil).

Mike Richard is the editor of Vagabondish. He lives in Rhode Island – a spit of land in the northeastern US - where he is a professional web designer and travel junkie with an unhealthy addiction to backpacking, camping, hiking and seeing the world. He enjoys knit hats, small, declarative sentences and speaking in the third person.

Matt Stabile founded and runs TheExpeditioner.com, through which you can read his writings, see his videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time.

Arog Vila is a New York-based photographer who developed his unique aesthetic and rule-breaking composition studying at the International Center of Photography, the New School and the School of Visual Arts. He delivers crisp and edgy images of photojournalistic human narrative, pointing his camera on the expected from an entirely new angle, then turning to the unusual and connecting it to something familiar and beautiful.

Co-management of protected areas by both the state and local communities is one of the best ways to guarantee that tourism will provide economic and social benefits to many people who would otherwise be marginalized, at the same time that it ensures protection for the environment on which these communities rely for their income. An excellent example is the Soncor Sector of Los Flamencos National Reserve, in the Atacama Desert of the Antofagasta Region, in northern Chile.

A local Lickan Antay guide explains the importance of conservation to a group of school children. Photo by Marcela Torres

Los Flamencos National Reserve is located within the Atacama La Grande Indigenous Development Area, which was established in 1997 to promote sustainable development of the ancient territories of the Lickan Antay peoples. Since then, the Lickan Antay communities have strengthened their ancient rights to use of the resources, in many cases following traditional methods, and in others applying modern natural resource management techniques.

When the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF) began charging entrance fees to visit the Reserve, at the begining of the 2000 decade, the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao cut off the access road to Laguna Chaxa, in the Soncor Sector, to demand that tourism, carried out in their ancient territories, also benefit the descendants of this ethnic group that live in the nearby town. Their action brought about a revision of the plan and CONAF and the Lickan Antay communities signed co-management agreements for four of the seven sectors of the Reserve: Soncor, Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons, Moon Valley and Tambillo.

Los Flamencos National Reserve harbors the three flamingo species found in Chile: the Andean Flamingo, the Chilean Flamingo, and James’ Flamingo. Photo by Hernán Torres

Income generated from the entrance fees to these sites, which attract national and foreign visitors, has allowed the communities to strengthen programs to aid elderly and disabled people in their communities. At the same time, a significant amount of this income is invested in the management of each sector and staff salaries. The inclusion of local community personnel in the management of these sectors has allowed CONAF to redirect its staff to sectors and activities that were previously left largely unattended due to the lack of personnel and resources that affect the institution.

First Sustainable Visitor Center

Because of the increasing interest shown by tourists arriving from the nearby town of San Pedro de Atacama, the community decided to improve the site’s infrastructure and visitor information. To that end, in 2006, it partnered with CONAF and the SQM mining company, which exploits lithium in the Atacama Salt Flat, to develop the first sustainable visitor center in a protected area in Chile.

The project included the architectural design and construction of the visitor center, incorporating techniques such as reuse of grey water and electricity generation through solar panels and windmills. The roads were also repaired and the parking lot expanded.

This was the first sustainable visitor center built in a protected area in Chile, using renewable wind and solar energy. Photo by Hernán Torres

At the same time, a group of local guides from the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao was trained in interpretation techniques to convey effectively to visitors the natural and cultural values of the area. To support this, five bilingual signs were developed for the interpretive trail and 18 for the inner hall of the center. A documentary video was also produced, in Spanish with English subtitles, to complement information provided to visitors.

The results could not have been better. Visitors to Laguna Chaxa comment that it is a pleasure to pay an entrance fee because you can see that the revenues are invested in the people and in improving the place, where you no longer find garbage lying around and there is good infrastructure. In addition, tourism has provided local people with a new source of income and each day more and more Lickan Antay Community members seek training to be part of the benefits of responsible tourism.

Such too were the reasons why whl.travel, the global online travel-booking network of mindful local travel experts, stepped up to sponsor it, working from within its extensive network of local partners to find fitting ecotourism prize material for the winners.

Participants were given a limit of 1,000 words and five evocative photographs through which to tell their stories. They were also required to provide tips about ecotourism in their selected destinations or reflections about how they might help better preserve that particular destination through ecotourism practices.

See the promotional video here:

.

.

And now the winners have been identified. From dozens of submissions, a shortlist of 10 finalists (determined by public vote) was reviewed by a panel of judges that included representatives from The International Ecotourism Society (TIES), Tourism Concern, MyNatour and the WHL Group, the parent company of whl.travel.

Ethan Gelber, the Chief Communication Officer of the WHL Group, said (see the video directly below) that he was looking for three qualities when determining the best of the ecotourism travel blog contest finalists: the first was “how much time and effort was taken by the person to think about what an ecotourism experience is”; the second was “how carefully they made a choice of the experience they wanted to live through”; and the third was “whether or not the experience was as rich as they thought it would be.”

And now the winners have been announced and decided on their prizes:

.

.

FIRST PLACE: A Garden Lady in India’s Cold Mountain Desert by Shivya

As her prize, Shivya will escape to the highland region of the Albanian Alps. Hosted by Outdoor Albania, the whl.travel local connection in Albania, Shivya will set off on a five-day guided trek through some of the country’s most vivid scenery. With overnights spent in the traditional houses of the Albanian highlanders, daytime activities include a ferry trip along Lake Koman, a visit to the Valbona Valley and a trek to the Theth Valley surrounded by high mountain passes and peaks.

SECOND PLACE: Reef to Rainforest by Hobbers

Hobbers will head deep into Estonia’s Soomaa National Park (soomaa translates more or less as ‘land of the bogs’). Surrounded by vast floodplains and crisscrossed by rivers, she and a companion will enjoy a wilderness experience in an area known for its canoeing, ‘bog-shoeing,’ beavers and berry-picking – all courtesy of Soomaa.com, an operator based out of Estonia.

THIRD PLACE: My Trip to Mali – Halt in Terya Bugu by Mario Difra

Mario will travel from his home in Italy to southwest Laos, a region replete with jungles, raging rivers and outstanding cultural heritage. Once there, he will embark on a high-flying treetop adventure by zipline, followed by a Mekong cruise to the World Heritage Site of Wat Phou – all made possible by Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos.

.

The three ecotourism packages that were not selected were a rainforest adventure in Ecuador made possible by the Yachana Lodge, the whl.travel local connection in Quito; a Galapagos Island tour through Yacu Amu Experiences, the whl.travel local connection in the Galapagos; and a visit to Sana’a and Soqotra in Yemen with Eternal Yemen, the whl.travel local in Yemen.

The author grates zucchini under the watchful eye of Koula Barydakis, the chef-instructor who believes that the food of Crete, Greece, is the healthiest in the world. Photo of Heather Rath

Koula Barydakis, our ebullient chef instructor, began our local cooking lessons by pouring a shot of raki for herself and her students as we toasted the traditional Cretan diet, one of the healthiest in the world, which is a quality Barydakis makes clear in her book, Foods of Crete: Traditional Recipes from the Healthiest People in the World.

Cretan Cuisine Through the Eyes of a Local

“We Cretans eat abundantly but simply, consuming much olive oil, olives, seasonal fruits and vegetables including wild mountain greens (horta), yogurt, cheese, lentils and beans,” Barydakis explained to us. “We eat meat once a week and on special occasions. We always drink a lot of mountain tea (malotera, good for the stomach) while eating bread and olives.” It doesn’t hurt that the food is routinely flavoured with native herbs like oregano, thyme and sage, and that red wine commonly accompanies lunch and dinner.

Even cats have something to contribute to food sustainability in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

When it comes to food, Barydakis even proudly proclaims that Crete has practised sustainable living without using the name. Raki is derived from the residue of grape pressings. Most fruits and vegetables consumed are seasonal, not imported from faraway places. Crops are grown naturally without fertilisers and pesticides, just as they have been for generations. In Barydakis’s village, goats make short work of any scraps of food. Chickens are free range and their fresh eggs contain bright orange yolks. Even the scavenger street cats of Crete are part of the solution!

Modest Origins, Modest Practice

Barydakis recalls how her parents sent her to hairdressing school to learn how to earn a living unaware she also attended cooking school, where she refined the culinary skills learned from her mother and grandmother. At 16, she left Crete to travel abroad but spent most of her new life as a chef in Toronto, Canada’s Greektown before her “blessed island” lured her home again.

Delicious handmade dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice) are typical of the cuisine on Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Now she conducts her cooking classes under a patch of cobalt blue sky in an old olive oil press building renovated 10 years ago in Vamos, a traditional Cretan village. In case of rare inclement weather, she moves to a house.

During our session, we chopped, grated, mixed, pressed, formed – and dined on – rooster with Cretan pasta, kalitsounia pies (a sweet cheese pastry), grape leaves with rice (dolmades), zucchini fritters, Greek salad and garlic beets with yogurt salad washed down with liberal amounts of village wine.

A Greek Island Full of Grace

Cretan cooking is not the only lesson Barydakis taught us. She is an exuberant ambassador for her island.

“Crete is a beautiful island filled with bountiful food.’ she enthused. “The wild, natural beauty of the mountains and the ocean make you think that when God created Crete, He created all the beauty the human mind can imagine. The land is so rich with olive, lemon and orange trees, and gardens, the smell alone can make you drunk. The wide variety of herbs and flowers from ancient times found on Crete is still used to cure pains and diseases. Writers, explorers, scientists and tourists all come to Crete to see it, study it, eat the tasty foods, drink the raki and get high on its immortal wines. The people of Crete live simply and always win your heart.”

The market of fresh greens in Crete, Greece, help to make the local cuisine so rich in variety of and nutrition. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Barydakis lives her philosophy. Following my lesson, our weekends in Crete soon featured Saturdays with Barydakis. Each week we met for coffee in a different place of Chania, the ancient city on the island’s western shore, after which she took us on a leisurely walking tour to show us excellent local restaurants, and markets, and pointed out where to purchase good local wines. She led us to special churches, monasteries and gave us a thumbnail sketch of Cretan feast holidays. Our education included the island’s Second World War history and how it affected her village and family.

A Dish to Savour: Cheese and Spinach Pie

The dough
Ingredients
4 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup raki (Barydakis says white wine or lemon juice can be used instead)
a pinch of salt
warm water (as much as needed)
½ cup olive oil

Directions
Mix the ingredients and knead them well. The pastry must be a little soft. Leave it to ‘rest’ for half an hour, covered with a towel.

Zucchini fritters frying in olive oil in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

The Cheese stuffing
Ingredients
Equal amounts of ricotta and feta cheese
2 eggs
chopped sprigs of fresh mint
salt

Directions
Mix all the ingredients together and place on the pastry as below. Roll the dough until it is not more than 1-2 mm thick and then cut it into round shapes of about 8 cm in diameter. Put in a little stuffing and fold in a half moon shape. Seal the edges with a fork. Fry in hot olive oil. When they are browned on both sides, remove and serve.

Kali oreksi, enjoy your meal!

Fabiola Duerig and her husband Oliver, the cofounders of Las Pleyades Travel, enjoy a sunset over the bay of Taganga in Santa Marta, Colombia. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

Fabiola is proud to call Colombia home and to share it with travellers eager for a local’s insights. As a seasoned traveller herself, she can appreciate the value of a local travel experience.

WHL Group: Which is your favourite WHL Group destination and which would you most like to visit?
Fabiola: My favourite destination at the moment is my own home – Santa Marta, Colombia – because I am able to experience its natural beauty every single day. Colombia as a whole is a great country in every sense, which more and more foreign tourists are starting to realise.

Outside of Colombia, the destination I would like to visit is India. Despite the poverty and misery I might see there, where 80 kids die every day from curable diseases like rabies, I don’t want to shut my eyes. It’s real. India has a very special culture and way of thinking, one so different from that of the western world. I also love their way of dancing and all the colours. I look forward to exploring it someday.

WHLG: What would you never travel without?
Fabiola: For me, the two biggest essentials are music and a passport. The rest are details.

Bahia Concha is part of what makes Santa Marta, Colombia Fabiola's favorite destination. It is also where she is lucky enought to call home. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

WHLG: What do you miss most about home when travelling?
Fabiola: I suppose it depends on the country I visit. Here on the coast of Colombia, I really miss the high quality and variety of European food, but if I were travelling in Argentina, for example, I wouldn’t notice this so much. What I always miss, no matter the destination, are my friends and family if they’re not there with me to share all the exciting experiences of travel.

WHLG: What’s the most adventurous trip you’ve ever taken?
Fabiola: I would have to say a trip down the Death Road from La Paz, Bolivia, to a small town in the mountains. It is said to be beautiful, but I don’t think it is worth it because the road is so dangerous that you see the old remains of vehicles down below. Also, local people drive so fast that accidents are inevitable. So I am just glad to have survived that!

WHLG: What is your funniest travel experience?
Fabiola: It’s hard to say which is the funniest because I’m lucky to have lots of really funny ones to choose from. On more than a few occasions, I’ve found myself in situations I almost could not believe because it was so funny and surreal. But at the same time I know that it will be less funny when I try to relate it to someone because you have to live it. This is one of the joys of travel with your partner or your friends – you can laugh so many times about the same stories for years. You will always have the memories of that extraordinary, unusual situation that you shared.

Oliver looks out onto the stunning hills of across from the bay of Tananga with Kike, another partner on the Las Pleyades team in Santa Marta, Colombia. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

For example, when I was travelling in Bolivia with a friend, the bus stopped in the middle of the night because there was a technical problem, as happens a lot there. When we got out of the bus to see what they were doing, we saw that they had pulled a frog out of the wheel! They managed this in a few hours without any technical instruments. It was amazing, but, as I said, it’s not that funny unless you were there.

WHLG: What is your scariest travel experience?
Fabiola: I felt frightened while crossing the border from Peru to Bolivia at night. I know now why it is not recommended!

WHLG: If you could go on holiday with anyone famous – living or dead – who would you take?
I would visit Fidel Castro with Albert Einstein in Cuba. I just think that they’re both admirable. Although they may have a lot of failures (like every human being), they are intelligent enough and I would help them to open their minds so we could improve all together. Maybe we’d find a political formula that solves all our social problems. Of course, I would take my husband Oliver with me too!

WHLG: Describe the best and worst accommodation you’ve ever stayed in.
Fabiola: The best would have to be Finca Barlovento here in Santa Marta between the river and the Caribbean Sea. The waves of the ocean sound like a whisper in your ears and the natural beauty just overwhelms you.

On the other end of the spectrum: as a backpacker I saw a lot of accommodations that compete for the ‘worst place’ award. Backpacker accommodations can surprise you in both negative and positive ways. I am happy with a clean bed in a clean room with a private bathroom, although it can also be shared, although shared bathrooms are generally less clean. The worst thing I’ve ever seen was in Peru, where the room smelled like bad eggs and Oliver found excrement on the floor of the bathroom. We decided to leave and found a great hostel (called La Casona) at a very fair price.

Fabiola and Oliver pose with team member Gilbert (center), who is one of their best drivers and friends. All three are very excited about their new vehicles, part of what makes them the best transfer service in Colombia between Santa Marta, Cartagena, Tayrona Park and Sierra Nevada. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

WHLG: Describe your earliest travel memory.
Fabiola: I have early memories of the beaches in Southern Europe on holidays when I was two or three years old. I remember surfer beaches, the Mediterranean Sea and the Adriatic Sea.

WHLG: Please briefly explain what you think local travel is.
Fabiola: To me, local travel is being aware that you are visiting a different place where people have different habits and cultures, and if you are ready to accept and respect this, you can dive in and have a true travel experience. It’s about getting in touch with local people and eating in local restaurants to try the typical and recommended dishes. As an alternative to ‘all-inclusive’ resort-style travel, local travel means staying in small cabanas in the surrounding areas where you can see how local people really live, and choosing local tourist guides. Local guides can help you learn a lot about the people and their culture in a short time, because they have a great wealth of knowledge about the area, the history and the people.

WHLG: In what ways do you see local travel benefiting the country in which you live?
Local travel involves many different local people as the service providers of accommodations, tours and transportation. In this way, small companies have a chance to create jobs for more and more local people. We feel that, in our case, as a travel agency, this is one of our most important roles.

Will the world end? Probably not. This date is simply the end of a 5,125-year-long cycle on the Mayan calendar. While many people believe that its finish portends major astronomical phenomena, which have been largely misinterpreted and misunderstood as ‘end times’ prophesies, other new-age interpretations of the date herald it as the end of one spiritual era and the beginning of another – we will undergo a transformation, they say.

The highest points of Tikal's pyramids rise above the surrounding rainforest canopy. Tikal is a Mayan must-see ruin in Guatemala. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

Rather than preparing for the apocalypse, though, why not plan a 2012 tour of the Mayan pyramids and prophesies in Guatemala? Explore the grand ruins of ancient Mayan civilisations. Meet a traditional living Mayan community of today and find out firsthand what they are thinking and doing as you take part in sacred rituals and ceremonies.

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins of Tikal and Cancuen

On one such itinerary – an eight-day short break offered by Gunyah – the final visit is to Tikal, one of the most famous and visited ruins sites in the western hemisphere. Nothing short of resplendent, it is the archaeological site with the most restored pyramids in Guatemala. Its towering monuments and sprawling acropolis are some of the highest structures in the Americas from the Classic Period of 200 to 900 AD, when the Mayan civilisation was at its prime. Tikal was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Before reaching Tikal, there’s a chance to take in one of the lesser-known Mayan heritage sites like Cancuén. Cancuén has no pyramids to compete with Tikal; rather, its ancient inhabitants are believed to have lived in the woods and caves nearby, while the royalty lived in the palaces whose ruins are a highlight for visitors today. Cancuén is unique as an archaeological site because its local indigenous community remains intact. Through sustainable tourism initiatives like the Gunyah experience, local guides are working together with archaeologists to stay connected with their heritage and share it with visitors.

At the heart of the Gunyah pyramids and prophesies tour is interaction with local Mayan people - a Q'eqchi community - to share their culture, traditions and even a ceremony or ritual. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

Experience Mayan Ceremonies and Legends Firsthand

Any pyramids-and-prophecies tour should take you directly into a local Mayan community, where you can interact with the people and participate in a traditional ritual. One day of the Gunyah experience is dedicated to sharing in a ceremony with the community. What ritual it will be depends on the time of the year; for example, it could be a ceremony in the dry season asking for rain.

The Maya people have ceremonies for almost all aspects of daily life. Carried down through the generations from ancient teachings, these ceremonies are sacred and it is rare that outsiders are allowed to participate. However, the community shares its unique ceremonies with travellers in order to explain their importance. This way, visitors can learn about Mayan beliefs. It’s a chance to ask questions!

Beyond the End Times Prophecies

If you plan a pyramids and prophecies tour to coincide exactly with December 21, 2012, in hopes of seeing the world implode from its Mayan epicentre, you may be disappointed. More than apocalyptic rumours and hype, the Gunyah short break is about experiences with real local Mayan people in Guatemala, the Q’eqchi. It’s a chance to coexist with them and take part in their living culture – their traditions, their ceremonies and their daily life. By sharing meals and stories, you can see directly how they apply their sacred calendar and cosmic vision of the world to their everyday lives.

Beyond the ancient Mayan ruins and local culture, the Gunyah pyramids and prophesies tour itinerary is full of magic moments in Guatemala's wild green outdoors. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

The Gunyah Pyramids and Prophecies experience is also a great way to make the most of eight days in Guatemala. In addition to the visits to two ancient ruins and interactions with a local community, the itinerary packs in highlights and surprises like special lodging in the colonial city of Antigua, a tubing trip through the Candelaria Caves and a boat tour down the Pasión River.

Looking for more local and authentic trips in Guatemala and all over the world? Gunyah short breaks combine the mind-blowing spontaneity of independent travel with the convenience of a package holiday vacation for people who want real experiences when they travel.

Malawi, known as the Warm Heart of Africa, is nestled in between Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania. When I first arrived here in 2005 and piled into the back of an open truck with hordes of colourfully dressed girls, the country instantly lived up to its reputation. The girls chatted with us for over four hours on our bumpy journey! We didn’t really understand each other, but the enormous smiles and happy faces were enough to serve as the basis for solid friendships during our time together on the road.

The tranquil shores of Lake Malawi are drawing more and more visitors to Malawi, the Warm Heart of Africa. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Malawi is perhaps most famous for its dominant geographical feature; Lake Malawi is where visitors come to enjoy local culture, warm clear water and wonderfully sandy beaches almost all to themselves. While tourism is slowly picking up along the lakeshore, visitors can still relax or go kayaking or diving without stepping on others’ toes! Of course, the appeal of this small hidden gem of Africa extends beyond the lake, all the way to the peaks of Mulanje Mountain, the highest peak in Central Africa.

Day Trips

If you are staying in the cities of Blantyre or Lilongwe, you have plenty of options for day trips away from urban hustle and bustle. Many people choose to head straight to the lakeshore or Luangwa National Park, but there is another option: village visits.

The Responsible Safari Company has partnered with some extraordinary rural communities eager to welcome travellers on day visits to their villages for close-up glimpses of Malawian culture. Visits can include an afternoon playing with the children in a small orphan care centre, visiting a community project or watching traditional dancing and sampling some local delicacies. Overnight village stays are also a possibility.

Each visit has one thing in common: it always culminates in everyone singing and dancing – and that includes the visitors! A village excursion is also a fantastic way to ensure your visit to Malawi benefits local people.

On day trips to local Malawian village communities, a highlight for visitors is always the energised drums and dance party with local people. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Shopping

If you are looking for a truly unique gift, check out the handful of stalls situated at the base of Mount Mulanje. Here, local artisans prepare and sell crafts made from Mulanje cedar wood. As well as smelling gorgeous, it is ideal for carving intricate patterns and inscriptions.

While the Mulanje cedar is a endangered species, we have it on very good authority that selling these items – a key source of income for local communities – helps stop villagers from getting involved in the all-too-frequent illegal logging activities that remove huge quantities of this precious wood. The amount of wood used for curios is very small and can be sustainably replaced, especially when compared to what is destroyed by logging, so we are comfortable advising travellers to support these craftsmen! Even if you are not buying it is fascinating to spend time watching them.

Another highlight of shopping in Malawi is a visit to the fruit and vegetable markets. Our favourite is Bvumbwe market. Set amidst the tea estates, this small market has some of the best produce in the country.

Restaurants

The food of Malawi is perhaps not its strongest point, unless you are an adventurous eater looking to sample the field mice or caterpillars sold on kebab sticks along the side of the road!

On Lake Malawi, you catch glimpses of local Malawian life, such as the launching of this sailing dhow. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Off the beaten track, though, we do have two favourite family-run places that always keep us coming back for more. The first, called Veg Delight, is in Blantyre and run by an Indian family. The owner, Aisha, is a fantastic cook who offers delicious all-vegetarian Indian and Chinese food.

The second is one of the highlights of hiking Mulanje. After your descent, you can be sure of a delicious freshly baked pizza at rustic Pizza Basilico. Positioned to give stunning views of the mountain, it delivers each and every time with some of the best food in Malawi.

For more dining options, check out our Malawi restaurant guide.

Local Treats

A river boat safari is one of the best ways to appreciate the wildlife and beauty of Malawi’s national parks.

On a recent visit to Majete Wildlife Reserve, we were passengers on a lodge boat equipped with a hamper of nibbles and gin and tonics, when we eased along the riverbank to where a group of elephants was feeding on a small island. After about 20 minutes of wonderful family interaction, the elephant mothers edged their babies toward the water. One by one they then swam across the deep river, babies dipping in and out of the fast-flowing currents and mothers doing an incredible job of ensuring everyone got across safely. Emerging on the other side, the whole family waited until reassembled and then, after a quick dry, headed off into the forest. An incredible sighting!

On a river boat safari in Malawi, you will see amazing wildlife moments such as this herd of elephants crossing the river in Majete Wildlife Reserve. Photo courtesy of Kate Webb

Night Out

Once a year, The Lake Of Stars music festival comes to Malawi. In 2004, event founder Will Jameson visited Malawi and, inspired by events like Live Aid, WOMAD and Glastonbury, dreamed of having a music festival on the shores of the lake. Lake of Stars Festival, though, would use arts-tourism to generate revenue and exposure for the country.

We have just been to the 2011 festival and it was fantastic! Under the Malawi skies, international and local bands performed right on the beach and the atmosphere was incredible. We danced the night away to the likes of Beverley Knight, The Foals and Freshly Ground.

The festival happens every October and many travellers visit Malawi at this time to combine their travels with this unique event, staying at the cool backpacker havens of Cape Maclear and Senga Bay.

All year round, for an exclusively local feel, catch The Black Missionaries, usually playing on the weekend in either Blantyre or Lilongwe.

Such is the case with The Region Initiative (TRI), a broad-based, tri-regional responsible-tourism partnership founded in May 2010 and spanning South Asia, Central Asia and Eastern Europe with the goal of connecting communities along the ancient Silk Road. By working with a coalition of nongovernmental stakeholders, including tour operators, nongovernmental organisations, tourism experts, academia and youth, TRI hopes to push beyond the similar threats and challenges faced by destinations along the Silk Road and sharpen the focus on the regions’ shared opportunities, particularly with regard to responsible travel and tourism.

An Enduring Ride on the Silk Road

What is known today as the “Silk Road” (also called the Silk Route) is a vast network of interconnecting routes that was arguably the most important transcontinental trade road in history. It once extended nearly 12,000 kilometres and linked many powerful civilisations across ancient China, India, Tibet, Egypt, the Persian Empire and the Mediterranean. Beginning around 200 B.C.E., merchants managed highly lucrative businesses along these interweaving long-distance tracks, bartering for all manner of goods that included spices, tea, gold, jewels, ivory, silk, carpets, porcelain and much much more.

But the Silk Road was more than just a channel for trade. Following in the footsteps of these tradesmen, other travellers, such as nomads, missionaries, pilgrims, conquerors and early explorers (some of them long before Marco Polo), set forth from all corners of the world, forging cross-cultural connections that encouraged the spread of spiritual wealth, religious doctrine, great scholarship, art and architecture, and resulted in numerous intellectual exchanges. Strong echoes of the ties born in these early times still exist to this day.

The modern “Silk Road” also remains an inspiration and magnet for curious and intrepid travellers. In fact, for decades, the growth of tourism in regions along the Silk Road has been steady, bringing with it new challenges as well as the strong potential for improving local economies. And now, in a good 21st-century twist, there’s growing community-led unity behind a quest to promote sustainable tourism and travel along the Silk Road.

In Nepal, one of the Silk Road countries participating in The Region Initiative, emblematic eyes are painted on Swayambunath temple in Kathmandu

Creating Sustainable Tourism Connections

While governments often put politics ahead of policy and sometimes fail to establish strong international collaborative ties among those in the tourism sector, other groups, like TRI, are leading the process of building cross-border partnerships in the industry and to encourage responsible tourism.

TRI has already established its presence in 15 Silk Road countries: Armenia, Bangladesh, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, India, Pakistan, Nepal, Tajikistan, Russia, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Ukraine and Uzbekistan. Tourism operators in each of these countries have adopted the aim of encouraging local travel professionals to share ideas and strategies that minimise the negative impacts of mass tourism and instead encourage sustainable, long-term and responsible practices, focusing more on history, people and culture than on the their outer trappings.

Unfortunately, the way ahead is not as smooth as silk. With current or recent armed conflicts in Afghanistan, India, Nepal Pakistan and Sri Lanka in South Asia, as well as economic and political unrest in several Central Asian republics and in Eastern Europe, there are many obstacles to overcome. But high hopes persist through the efforts of The Region Initiative to support small community-based tourism stakeholders who work as accommodation providers, tour operators and guides.

For more information about The Region Initiative, please visit www.theregionaltourism.org.

There can be so much stress wrapped up in the simple act of catching a taxi. Book ahead with Green Path Transfers and you have peace of mind, in part because your travel is 100% carbon offset. This taxi waits near the Greek Parliament in Syntagma Square, Athens, Greece. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Salonica84

Triptrotting is all about connecting travellers with locals and then providing both with authentic experiences and opportunities to make new friends. I was the lucky gal chosen from among 300 others as the Ultimate Triptrotter and spent several weeks in Europe putting the Triptrotting network of travellers and hosts to the test.

Well, my Ultimate Triptrotting Adventures featured a lot of hopping from city to city, which meant a lot of time spent on planes and in airports. And I mean a lot of time: the start of my journey featured a period in which, thanks to Mother Nature (snow is nice, but not when it traps you in New Zealand), I barely set foot outside of an airport for five days.

Luckily for me, the WHL Group, with a little help from The Travel Word, stepped in and offered me the use of their innovative service known as Green Path Transfers, a global network of local eco-friendly airport transfer partners and ground transportation operators that transformed airport-city travel into something I anticipated rather than dreaded.

With ground transportation no longer a worry, in Istanbul, Yolanda met up with Salih, her Urban Adventures guide eager to share his love of his city and knowledge about Turkish life, including his his favourite Baklava cafe. Photo courtesy of Triptrotting

Much More Than a Transfer

Green Path Transfers was so much more than an airport transfer to me. As a traveller on a budget, I am used to taking the cheapest option to get into the city. This usually means one of three things:

1) scamming a friend into picking me up and hoping that they’ll still be there even if my flight is delayed
2) waiting around for a shuttle that will eventually take me to some inconvenient part of the city, or
3) scouring the airport for some form of public transportation, which then loops around and around suburbs for ages before ending up anywhere remotely close to civilization.

‘Splurging’ means getting a taxi, and it is only done as a last resort in the wee hours of the morning or when no other public transportation is available. Even that is usually not all that pleasant of an experience, as I can’t help wondering if the cab is actually a real cab, and if the driver is taking advantage of my clear unfamiliarity with the city by driving me around in circles.

A Taste of Something Different

Green Path Transfers was different: a global network of door-to-door ground transportation operators that provide a friendly face and reliable service at competitive costs, all while being green (using low-emissions vehicles and/or 100% carbon offsets).

Is the journey the way there or the destination? It's both, especially when the transport is simplified by Green Path Transfers and the goal is Athens, Greece, site of the world-famous Parthenon, sitting atop the Acropolis. Photo courtesy of Triptrotting

I was amazed at the ease with which I could get from the airport to my Triptrotting hosts! There was unfailingly someone at the airport to greet me, grab my bags and offer up both big smiles and lots of tips for ways to enjoy their cities. The drivers took great pride not only in their jobs, their cities and in maintaining high standards of service, but, as an added bonus, in knowing that they were doing right by the planet.

Especially to those of us concerned about how much carbon gets pumped into the atmosphere as a result of flights, Green Path Transfers promises some peace of mind. After all, Green Path Transfers is not just ‘green’ in name only. It aims to work with operators who use vehicles that are hybrids, run off biofuel, or whatever it takes to ensure reduced carbon emissions. As a further guarantee that the transfer is completely carbon neutral, Green Path Transfers offsets on any unavoidable emissions.

Now that I have had the good fortune of Green Path Transfer in Istanbul and in Athens, I can never go back to my old ways of long hours hauling luggage around on outdated and sketchy public transportation. Here’s to Green Path Transfers, where the grass truly is greener on the other side!