On the occasion when this picture was taken, we were visiting the park, staying at Gorah Elephant Camp, one of the luxury camps found within the park, and were on an afternoon safari. We came across these lions a few hundred meters from the camp. They were on their way to the camp to overnight with two other lionesses and the big dominant male, which was on the periphery. The young male shown here was reaching an age at which he would be kicked out of the pride fairly soon and was probably savouring the last few weeks or months with his family.

During the evening we enjoyed dinner and then were escorted to our tented rooms for the night by our ranger. We heard the pride of lions all night, grunting and roaring, clearly letting the rest of the animal kingdom know where they were and who was “King of the Addo”. Early the next morning, we found the pride again on our safari; they were very relaxed and did not seem very interested in moving on. Lions do sleep about 20 hours of the day away, so it was no surprise.

Visiting the Addo National Park is a must for any visitor venturing up or down the Garden Route of South Africa, as it offers a fantastic opportunity to enjoy a safari before or after the scenic drive along our southeastern coastline. Various accommodations, from budget to luxury, can be found around the Addo National Park, as well as in Port Elizabeth, as the park is only about 80 kilometres from the “Friendly City”, as it is locally known.

This African Gospel Church - a structure like many in the townships - is in the Langa Township in the Flats outside Cape Town

So what are you to do? Are there reasonably priced accommodation options anywhere in South Africa? How can one find exciting and responsible travel options beyond the pomp of a month of games? And, as we’ve written about already, is there any way of ensuring that some of the money spent will be fairly distributed, so that the inflated profits benefit as wide a cross-section of people as possible, not just the already rich and powerful?

Opportunism and Exploitation

We’ve seen a growing number of articles decrying the avarice of accommodation owners in South Africa as they set special room rates to laughably outrageous levels. “Research this week on Hotels.com UK website showed that the four-star, centrally located Cape Town Lodge Hotel, which from May 28 to June 5 charges £68 per room per night, is raising its rate on June 11, when the tournament gets under way, to £395,” reported Travelmole in mid-December 2009. “Hotel rates always rise during big sporting events: during the Olympic Games in Athens (2004) and Sydney (2000) they were three times the usual level. But the increases in South Africa almost match those made during the Beijing Olympics, when hoteliers were accused of exploitation.”

The lion is one of the Big Five found in Kruger National Park, the country’s largest game reserve and a superb place for a safari (photo courtesy of South African Tourism)

“The World Cup has brought out the worst in some sectors of the tourism industry both in South Africa and abroad, but it seems that this is a phenomenon that follows every big event of this sort,” added Martin Hatchuel, the South African travel writer who publishes www.thistourismweek.co.za. “I have had quite a bit of contact with people in Australia who tell me that Sydney suffered a decline in tourism in the three years following its Olympics – and the reason most people seemed to have for avoiding the city as a destination was ‘greed.’ So South Africa is not alone.”

Given the price gouging and apparent absence of reasonable oversight, one real fear is that not only will little of any profits actually reach the local level, but that any backlash suffered as a result of unfair market practices will hurt locals the most.

Finding a Fair Room

One way of helping to make a small difference – and help redress some of the possible imbalances – is to book accommodation and tours with locally run, small-scale lodges and tour operators, especially those committed to bringing opportunity to the townships. This is not only in keeping with FIFA’s social development policy of providing support to community-based organisations, it also provides alternative lodging options in World Cup host cities where exploitative pricing is now evident.

In fact, continued Hatchuel, “It seems to me that the people who are being most sensible about this World Cup are those who own the smaller accommodation establishments and other small tourism businesses.”

To help the price-daunted World Cup fan, below is a list of off-the-beaten-track lodging options on offer through whl.travel, in some cases the only online booking service available for these properties. While other hotels are charging outlandish rates, these B&Bs promise not to bamboozle their customers. Their rates will be higher than usual, but still most definitely a bargain, especially considering the unbeatable cultural experience of life in a South African township (especially during the World Cup) and the assurance that the money spent is actually reaching the people.

Cape Town

• Kopanong
• Liziwe’s Guest House
• Majoro’s B&B
• Malebo’s Bed and Breakfast
• Ma Neo’s
• Ndibovayo Bed and Breakfast
• Radebe’s B&B
• Vicky’s Bed and Breakfast

Mossel Bay (on the Garden Route, midway between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth)

• Polani’s Xhosa Homestay
• Yonwaba Sesotho Homestay

Meeting the People

Whether or not alternative accommodation is key, meeting the people and experiencing the country should be. In a previous blog post, we’ve already proposed community or nature tours and activities in or near the World Cup host cities. What follows is a more targeted list to help zero in.

Traditional Xhosa dancers in South Africa perform for guests at a Mossel Bay township's first non-alcoholic shabeen and day-care centre

Cape Town
whl.travel offers access to a variety of community-based cultural and volunteer experiences, including:

• half-day, full-day and three-day township tours, and
• extended (28-day) volunteer adventures involving cheetahs, lions, monkeys, surfing and outreach to children.

Nelspruit
Nelspruit is quite close to Kruger National Park and the Panorama Route, as well as within several hour’s drive of the Mpumalanga Highlands.

All three are superb destinations with a broad offering of nature-oriented and outdoor activities, like river rafting, geckoiing, mountain biking, zip-line flying, rock abseiling, mountain boarding and following an aerial cable trail over a forest.

Animal enthusiasts will find satisfaction in visits to the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre for abandoned, injured and poisoned wildlife or to an elephant sanctuary.

Geckoiing is the use of a small raft steered using webbed gloves. It is one of the best ways to have fun with family and friends.

Port Elizabeth and the Garden Route
In Port Elizabeth, both a Shebeen Tour and a Real City Tour bring travellers to the heart of township life, while the Addo Tour spends a day at the famous Addo Elephant National Park.

Further west, along the Garden Route, a Meet the People Tour out of Mossel Bay is an absolute must, although a coastal cliff hike, game drive in Fynbos or horseback ride through a private game preserve are also a treat.

The Day After It’s Over

Not long after Sepp Blatter, FIFA president, declared “This World Cup belongs to Africa!” on the day of the World Cup 2010 draw, Nelson Mandela, appearing via video link, closed a short speech by saying that “The people of Africa have learned the lessons of patience and endurance in their long struggle for freedom. May the reward brought by the World Cup prove that the long wait for its arrival on African soil has been worth it.”

It’s time to wonder if the reward, so promising in principle, is still out of reach in practice because of misguided expectations about who is coming to the World Cup, how much they can afford and how widely they will travel after it’s all over.

“I think that the organisers of the World Cup and the tourism authorities in South Africa have missed – or failed to communicate – one important piece of intelligence: the demographics of the average soccer traveller,” said Hatchuel. “I have a suspicion that most of them will be males in the 24-32 year bracket, and if that’s the case, I expect they’ll be sticking to the host cities, and looking for the parties rather than travelling round the country.”

If that does turn out to be true, then it’s even more important that the mindful minority shows genuine interest in more than just sport and partying, both during the World Cup and after it’s over. South Africa can’t afford to suffer as Sydney did for its greed.

Notable as the locations of some of Africa’s preeminent water-sport destinations, Port Elizabeth and Addo National Park lie halfway between Cape Town and Durban on South Africa’s Eastern Cape. With a moderate climate and pleasant temperatures all year round, Port Elizabeth – more affectionately known as P.E. or the Friendly City by locals – and the surrounding region also offer exciting activities to terrestrial sports enthusiasts, nature lovers and history buffs alike.

Traditional wear in the Eastern Cape, South Africa, is still regularly seen. These two ladies are a prime example of the Xhosa heritage common throughout the province and in cities like Port Elizabeth.

Port Elizabeth enjoys the natural shelter of Algoa Bay, the sight of which is enhanced by the city’s distinctive Victorian architecture. Up close, the discerning traveller can get the best sense of the area by taking a Port Elizabeth tour, such as the Real City Tour, which gives visitors a true taste of South Africa and its contrasts, or the Shebeen Tour to pay a visit to some local townships and their historic taverns. A visit to a local museum, a hike on one of the region’s many nature trails, a day of whale watching or a round of golf at the Humewood Golf Course are also holiday favourites.

About an hour’s drive north of Port Elizabeth is South Africa’s third largest park, Addo Elephant National Park. Established in 1931 to save elephants on the verge of extinction, it is a refuge for elephants, as well as black rhinos, Cape buffalos and others. A safari game drive is a must for animal lovers and anyone wishing to catch a glimpse the Big Five. Whether you decide to stay near the park in an Addo-area forest lodge or other Port Elizabeth hotels found in nearby game reserves and towns, you’re never far from great animal action.

www.travel-easterncape.com is whl.travel’s eighth destination portal in the Republic of South Africa and now connects travellers to the Eastern Cape and some of the country’s most beautiful beaches through Lyon Tours & Safaris. Speaking on behalf of the team, Neil Lyons says “One can find the world in the Eastern Cape and yet you will not find another Eastern Cape in the world. We are very positive and excited about our partnership with whl.travel and are looking forward to an extremely successful website. It is great to know that whl.travel is passionate about sustainable development.” (Neil and the team actively strive to promote sustainable tourism establishments by recommending them to clients.) “We hope, together with whl.travel, to improve the lives of some of the underprivileged individuals in the Eastern Cape. In creating awareness through travel and tourism, we can help benefit local communities and create enhancement programmes for these communities. This in turn, helps conservation throughout the communities, protecting our natural and cultural heritage.”

Port Elizabeth is a proud host city of the World Cup in 2010, along with Cape Town, Johannesburg and Nelspruit, which is near the Panorama Route and Western Kruger. Other whl.travel South African destinations include the Cape Winelands and the Garden Route.

For more articles about South Africa, visit the whl.travel blog’s regional page on Southern Africa. See our whl.travel Flickr photostream for pictures from South Africa.

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IN AFRIKAANS

Port Elizabeth en Addo Nationale Park word gesien as twee van Afrika se mees prominente watersport bestemmings. Dit le halfpad tussen Kaapstad en Durban in Suid-Afrika se Oos-Kaap en spog met ‘n goeie klimaat en aangename temperature reg deur die jaar. Port Elizabeth, of P.E en die ‘Vriendelike Stad’ – so genome deur sy inwoners – en die omringende omgewing bied ‘n verskeidenheid aktiwiteite aan sport entoesiaste, natuurliefhebbers en diegene met ‘n belagstellin in die geskiedenis van die area.

The Eastern Cape of South Africa has some excellent young talent in its rural areas, as demonstrated by the wire cars these boys have made for their enjoyment. The whl.travel local connection would like to harness this talent to empower the local communities by giving them the opportunity to sell these crafts.

Port Elizabeth geniet die natuurlike hawe van Algoa Baai en hierdie uitsig op die baai word gekomplimenteer deur die stad se ken merkende Victoriaanse argitektuur. Vir ‘n naderby kyk, kan die berese reisiger ‘n goeie gevoel van die area kry deur een van die Port Elizabeth stadstoere, soos die Real City Tour, mee te maak. Hierdie toere gee die besoeker ‘n ware smaak van Suid-Afrika en die kontras tussen die mense en kulture. Die Shabeentoer besoek van die nabygelee ‘townships’ en hulle historiese tavernes. Ander vakansie gunstelinge in Port Elizabeth sluit in ‘n besoek aan een van die stad se museums, ‘n staptoer op een van die menigde natuur roetes in die omgewing, ‘n dag van walvisbesigtiging of ‘n rondte golf by die Humewood Golfbaan.

Sowat ‘n uur se ry noord van Port Elizabeth vind mens Suid’Afrikas se derde grootste park, die Addo Olifant Nationale Park. Hierdie park is in 1931 gestig om olifante op die rand van uitsterwing te red en is vandag nog ‘n veilige hawe vir olifante sowel as swartrenosters, Kaapse buffels en ander diere. ‘n Safari wildbesieningstoer is ‘n moet vir diereliefhebbers en elkeen wat graag die Groot Vyf te sien wil kry. Dit maak nie saak of jy kies om naby die park in die Addo area of een van die Port Elizabeth hotelle op nabygelee wildsplase of dorpe te bly nie, mens is nooit ver van waar die aksie is nie.

www.travel-easterncape.com is whl.travel se agste bestemmings portal in die Republiek van Suid-Afrika en verbind nou reisigers met die Oos-Kaap en van die land se mooiste strande, deur Lyon Tours & Safaris. Neil Lyon, hoof van die Lyon Tours & Safaris span noem “Mens kan die wereld in die Oos-Kaap vind, maar mens sal nie nog ‘n Oos-Kaap in die wereld vind nie. Ons is baie positief en opgewonde oor ons vennootskap met whl.travel en sien uit na ‘n uiters suksesvolle webtuiste. Dit is wonderlik om te weet dat whl.travel passievol is oor volhoubare ontwikkeling.” (Neil en die span streef aktief daarna om volhoubare toerisme ondernemings te bemark deur hulle aan kliente voor to stel.) “Ons hoop dat ons in samewerking met whl.travel, die lewens van sommige van die minderbevoorregte individue in die Oos-Kaap kan verbeter. Deur bewustheid met toerisme te skep, kan ons die plaaslike gemeenskappe help en verrykkings programme vir hierdie gemeenskappe skep. Hierdie programme het die potensiaal om konservasie in die gemeenskappe te help en so ons natuurlike en kulturele erfenis te bewaar.”

Port Elizabeth is ‘n trotse gasheerstad vir die Sokker Wereldbeker in 2010, naas Kaapstad, Johannesburg en Nelspruit, wat naby die Panorama Roete en Westelike Kruger gelee is. Ander whl.travel Suid-Afrikaanse bestemmings sluit in, die Kaapse Wynland en die Tuinroete.

Vir meer inligting en artikels oor Suid-Afrika, besoek die whl.tours blog se area bladsy oor Suid-Afrika. Gaan na ‘whl.travel Flickr photostream’ vir foto’s van Suid-Afrika.