If you want to see great apes in the wild, Sumatra’s rainforest is one of the most accessible places to do just that. Seeing orangutans in the wild, along with silver Thomas leaf monkeys, pig-tailed macaques, and a diverse range of birds like hornbills, will leave you with a renewed appreciation for the beauty and ingenuity of other species. However, you need to know how to visit them responsibly or you could introduce illnesses, since they share over 97 percent of our DNA. Less than 7,000 Sumatran orangutans live in the wild, and they’re an essential part of the rainforest ecosystem, helping seeds to germinate and even pruning the canopy.

Orangutan in Gunung Leuser, Sumatra. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society

The Gunung Leuser National Park is part of the Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an excellent spot for ape-watching and rainforest trekking. The Orangutan Information Centre (OIC), a local, grassroots nongovernmental organization, is working with a local guides association to certify guides in the popular destination of Bukit Lawang.

The OIC is an excellent source of information, and many of the guides are extremely knowledgeable and conscientious. However, because of the competition for visitors and tips, some guides do engage in unscrupulous practices like luring orangutans over with fruit, leaving fruit peels on the ground, or even letting visitors hug orangutans. Before you go into the forest, you’ll watch a short film on rainforest etiquette at the visitors’ center. Pay attention, and take responsibility for your own behavior. Better yet, download a copy of the park guidebook from the OIC website to prepare for your trip.

OIC Director Panut Hadisiswoyo, in Bukit Lawang, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society

In Bukit Lawang, you’ll have the chance to see orangutans close up, either at the feeding platform or slightly further into the rainforest. These orangutans have returned to the wild after a life in captivity. Taken from the wild by poachers at a young age, they are learning to live in the forest again after a rigorous rehabilitation process. They grow adept at building nests to sleep and lounge in, climbing nimbly through the canopy, and raising the next generation of wild orangutans. Like humans, they don’t know how to live in the wild by instinct alone. In the wild, they might spend eight years with their mother, learning how to live in the jungle. Learning these skills as adults takes an incredible amount of intelligence, patience, and perseverance, just as it would for a human.

Deeper in the jungle, you’ll likely see wild orangutans from afar. You’ll have the option to take a one-day, overnight, or multiday trek. Local guides are quite flexible in making arrangements. If planning a longer trek, talk with the staff at the visitors’ center to request a knowledgeable, conscientious guide.

For a quieter experience, visit the farther-flung village of Ketambe, about 8 hours by van from the main city of Medan. Staying in this little village bedecked with flowers and fruit trees will let you experience a less-trafficked part of the Gunung Leuser National Park, or “Leuser.” You’ll easily arrange van transportation on arrival; just ask your hotel staff for details. Call ahead to book a room in Ketambe. The Friendship Guesthouse offers rustic one-room bungalows with bathrooms for around U.S. $6 per night, and tasty curries for around $2. The welcoming staff will connect you with a local guide as well.

As in Bukit Lawang, take responsibility for your own behavior. The orangutans around Ketambe are wild, meaning they’ll keep their distance. One was said to have thrown a beehive at visitors, I was told, in what I felt sure was a cautionary tale. Talk about tool use, I thought.

Unfortunately, Leuser is threatened by the oil palm industry and other forms of encroachment, like much of Indonesia’s rainforests. In June 2011, it was placed on the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger for this reason. While there, I volunteered at a restoration site in the district of Langkat, North Sumatra. The OIC had reclaimed this illegally logged and farmed section of national forest in 2007. Since then, the all-local staff had been working to bring the rainforest back to life.

The old “hantu” – what we jokingly called the dead oil palms – still stood menacingly in some parts of the forest, gray-white fronds draping around their rotting trunks like a veil. But the vibrant growth of young rainforest trees was enveloping them, weaving them into the ecosystem as life carried on.

Restorasi house and plantation, Sumatra, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society.

One of the field assistants, Darjo, had carefully counted the bird species in the area – he’d spotted 83 so far. While collecting saplings in the deeper forest, the staff showed me huge elephant tracks. Very near the small house where we stayed, we saw the print of the rare golden cat.

Recently, after I’d arrived back in the States, the staff sent me an excited message: Orangutans were living at the site! They’d observed a male and pregnant female in the trees. The forest would take centuries, perhaps longer, to gain back the richness of the diversity it once had, but in the meantime, life will continue to thrive – as long as we let it.

More Information

Unesco World Heritage Centre: Danger listing for Indonesia’s Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra
Orangutan Information Centre: Project Reports
Ketambe: The Friendship Guesthouse & Restaurant
Orangutan Information Centre: OIC Restoration Site Performance Report, 2010-2011

Melanie Jae Martin writes about social/environmental issues and travel in the U.S. and abroad. To read more of her work, please visit The Story Grove.

Volunteering abroad, also known as voluntourism, is on fire. More and more, all kinds of people are looking for travel experiences where they can serve the under-served, globally. Who can disagree with such noble intentions? In fact, voluntourism is often hailed as one of the most constructive forms of tourism out there.

Voluntourism Economics

Like anything new and fast-growing, voluntourism can go awry. Opportunistic travel companies commercialize what should be kept in the non-profit sector, charging voluntourists a hefty premium. NGOs use voluntourists as a fundraising mechanism, taking more advantage of their willingness to pay than their willingness to work. As voluntourism gains scale in certain destinations, it can even affect local labor markets in ways the voluntourists never imagine. Rightly so, skeptics have started blowing whistles and calling for best practices.

Two Sustainable Bolivia volunteers paint a flagpole at Atendi. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

The economics of voluntourism is a hot issue in the larger debate about voluntourism’s impacts. Where are voluntourist dollars going? How much stays with the coordinating organization, and how much enters the local economy in a meaningful way? If you’re thinking about volunteer travel, these are the kinds of questions that are worth asking. If you’re an organization that is coordinating volunteer tourists, these are the kind of questions that are important to answer. Transparency is key.

Volunteering with Sustainable Bolivia in Cochabamba

Sustainable Bolivia is a registered non-profit organization in Cochabamba, Bolivia’s third-largest city. Here, it partners with 28 local non-profit organizations to coordinate volunteer and internship opportunities for international students and professionals. The organizations span a number of fields of development: public health, the environment, education, human rights, and social services.

Volunteers choose which organization they would like to get involved with, depending on their experiences, educational background, and interests. With its diverse network of local non-profit organizations, Sustainable Bolivia is in a good position to match volunteer skills and resources with the places in and around Cochabamba that could use them the most.

Engineers who want to work on appropriate technology solutions find a good match with Energetica, which works on alternative energy sources in the rural communities of Bolivia. Doctors and health care professionals have a number of choices for applying their skills, like Atendi where they can work with kids with disabilities, or Centro de Salud Cerro Verde if their interest is in reproductive health. For creative types and performers, Sustainable Bolivia has an artist residency program and a partner organizations like Performing Life, which provides underprivileged youth with workshops to develop juggling and other circus show skills.

Screen shot of mini grant reporting on the Sustainable Bolivia website.

The Mini Grant Program at Sustainable Bolivia

In 2009, the administration of Sustainable Bolivia started thinking about how they could make volunteer impacts more transparent. They realized that volunteers were the ones who were working directly in the field, in close contact with local partner organizations. The volunteers could see firsthand the most pressing needs on site at their projects.

In February of that year, the innovative new mini grant system was introduced. It’s a system where volunteers can decide exactly how their money is used in the community, and Sustainable Bolivia has one more way to measure and report contribution its to parter organizations. How does it work? For each month that a volunteer works with Sustainable Bolivia, $75 goes toward a mini grant. So, a volunteer that stays for three months has $225 to use toward their volunteer project in the way they think is most appropriate.

In order to apply their mini grants, volunteers are required to fill out an application explaining their project plans and budget. Then, once it has been approved, the volunteer is also required to submit receipts. This process allows for an organization-level reporting system on how volunteer money is being spent.

In keeping with the transparency that Sustainable Bolivia values, it publishes all mini grant activity on its website. On this fascinating page, viewers can see what each volunteer has done with each local partner organization. You can see a short description of the project, the application form, and the receipts showing where the money was spent. More than an ingenious system that ensures transparency about volunteer funds, it’s an elegant composite portrait of the kinds of activities that volunteers can do at Sustainable Bolivia and what the organization is about.

Blogging and Hula Hoops

I applied to spend time at Sustainable Bolivia through their artist residency program, asking if online content creation counts as a form of art. They were happy to accept me as their resident writer. Once I arrived, I had a meeting with Michelle, the national director, about the best way to use my volunteer time. Their website blog had become a little neglected, she said. I loved the idea of helping bring it back to life. By the end of my three month stay, I had five new posts published on the blog.

Hula Hooping with Performing Life members in Cochabamba, Bolivia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

As my time there passed, I was looking for ways to apply my own mini grant funding. The mini grant program inspired me to close my laptop and get involved on the ground level. My first week there, I had seen a show put on by Performing Life, amazed by the talent of its kids in juggling, diabalos, and unicycles. Since I’m a circus hobbyist myself, I was especially impressed by 13-year-old Scarlet and her fire poi spinning skills. I wanted to learn from her. I noticed that the organization could use some hula hoops to make its circus equipment more complete, and I started planning a project for my mini grant resources.

With my mini grant money, I went to the massive La Cancha local market and bought everything needed to make high-quality, performance-level hula hoops. I found PVC tubing, connectors, duct tape, electrical tape, and even some shiny decorative tape to finish the hoops with color and flair. My mini grant funding went a long way in Bolivia. By the end of my time there, I had made 15 new hula hoops, which were a big hit with the Performance Life kids.

All the materials for hula hoop construction had only cost about $75. There was still more mini grant funding left. I wanted to donate it directly to Performing Life, but Michelle explained to me that it rolls over to the next volunteer working with Performing Life. In this way, they can keep things totally transparent and visible about how the funding is spent. It gave me another idea – maybe I’ll go back and be that next volunteer myself.

To apply for an internship or volunteer opportunity at Sustainable Bolivia, get in contact through the Sustainable Bolivia website.

Such too were the reasons why whl.travel, the global online travel-booking network of mindful local travel experts, stepped up to sponsor it, working from within its extensive network of local partners to find fitting ecotourism prize material for the winners.

Participants were given a limit of 1,000 words and five evocative photographs through which to tell their stories. They were also required to provide tips about ecotourism in their selected destinations or reflections about how they might help better preserve that particular destination through ecotourism practices.

See the promotional video here:

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And now the winners have been identified. From dozens of submissions, a shortlist of 10 finalists (determined by public vote) was reviewed by a panel of judges that included representatives from The International Ecotourism Society (TIES), Tourism Concern, MyNatour and the WHL Group, the parent company of whl.travel.

Ethan Gelber, the Chief Communication Officer of the WHL Group, said (see the video directly below) that he was looking for three qualities when determining the best of the ecotourism travel blog contest finalists: the first was “how much time and effort was taken by the person to think about what an ecotourism experience is”; the second was “how carefully they made a choice of the experience they wanted to live through”; and the third was “whether or not the experience was as rich as they thought it would be.”

And now the winners have been announced and decided on their prizes:

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FIRST PLACE: A Garden Lady in India’s Cold Mountain Desert by Shivya

As her prize, Shivya will escape to the highland region of the Albanian Alps. Hosted by Outdoor Albania, the whl.travel local connection in Albania, Shivya will set off on a five-day guided trek through some of the country’s most vivid scenery. With overnights spent in the traditional houses of the Albanian highlanders, daytime activities include a ferry trip along Lake Koman, a visit to the Valbona Valley and a trek to the Theth Valley surrounded by high mountain passes and peaks.

SECOND PLACE: Reef to Rainforest by Hobbers

Hobbers will head deep into Estonia’s Soomaa National Park (soomaa translates more or less as ‘land of the bogs’). Surrounded by vast floodplains and crisscrossed by rivers, she and a companion will enjoy a wilderness experience in an area known for its canoeing, ‘bog-shoeing,’ beavers and berry-picking – all courtesy of Soomaa.com, an operator based out of Estonia.

THIRD PLACE: My Trip to Mali – Halt in Terya Bugu by Mario Difra

Mario will travel from his home in Italy to southwest Laos, a region replete with jungles, raging rivers and outstanding cultural heritage. Once there, he will embark on a high-flying treetop adventure by zipline, followed by a Mekong cruise to the World Heritage Site of Wat Phou – all made possible by Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos.

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The three ecotourism packages that were not selected were a rainforest adventure in Ecuador made possible by the Yachana Lodge, the whl.travel local connection in Quito; a Galapagos Island tour through Yacu Amu Experiences, the whl.travel local connection in the Galapagos; and a visit to Sana’a and Soqotra in Yemen with Eternal Yemen, the whl.travel local in Yemen.

The author grates zucchini under the watchful eye of Koula Barydakis, the chef-instructor who believes that the food of Crete, Greece, is the healthiest in the world. Photo of Heather Rath

Koula Barydakis, our ebullient chef instructor, began our local cooking lessons by pouring a shot of raki for herself and her students as we toasted the traditional Cretan diet, one of the healthiest in the world, which is a quality Barydakis makes clear in her book, Foods of Crete: Traditional Recipes from the Healthiest People in the World.

Cretan Cuisine Through the Eyes of a Local

“We Cretans eat abundantly but simply, consuming much olive oil, olives, seasonal fruits and vegetables including wild mountain greens (horta), yogurt, cheese, lentils and beans,” Barydakis explained to us. “We eat meat once a week and on special occasions. We always drink a lot of mountain tea (malotera, good for the stomach) while eating bread and olives.” It doesn’t hurt that the food is routinely flavoured with native herbs like oregano, thyme and sage, and that red wine commonly accompanies lunch and dinner.

Even cats have something to contribute to food sustainability in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

When it comes to food, Barydakis even proudly proclaims that Crete has practised sustainable living without using the name. Raki is derived from the residue of grape pressings. Most fruits and vegetables consumed are seasonal, not imported from faraway places. Crops are grown naturally without fertilisers and pesticides, just as they have been for generations. In Barydakis’s village, goats make short work of any scraps of food. Chickens are free range and their fresh eggs contain bright orange yolks. Even the scavenger street cats of Crete are part of the solution!

Modest Origins, Modest Practice

Barydakis recalls how her parents sent her to hairdressing school to learn how to earn a living unaware she also attended cooking school, where she refined the culinary skills learned from her mother and grandmother. At 16, she left Crete to travel abroad but spent most of her new life as a chef in Toronto, Canada’s Greektown before her “blessed island” lured her home again.

Delicious handmade dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice) are typical of the cuisine on Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Now she conducts her cooking classes under a patch of cobalt blue sky in an old olive oil press building renovated 10 years ago in Vamos, a traditional Cretan village. In case of rare inclement weather, she moves to a house.

During our session, we chopped, grated, mixed, pressed, formed – and dined on – rooster with Cretan pasta, kalitsounia pies (a sweet cheese pastry), grape leaves with rice (dolmades), zucchini fritters, Greek salad and garlic beets with yogurt salad washed down with liberal amounts of village wine.

A Greek Island Full of Grace

Cretan cooking is not the only lesson Barydakis taught us. She is an exuberant ambassador for her island.

“Crete is a beautiful island filled with bountiful food.’ she enthused. “The wild, natural beauty of the mountains and the ocean make you think that when God created Crete, He created all the beauty the human mind can imagine. The land is so rich with olive, lemon and orange trees, and gardens, the smell alone can make you drunk. The wide variety of herbs and flowers from ancient times found on Crete is still used to cure pains and diseases. Writers, explorers, scientists and tourists all come to Crete to see it, study it, eat the tasty foods, drink the raki and get high on its immortal wines. The people of Crete live simply and always win your heart.”

The market of fresh greens in Crete, Greece, help to make the local cuisine so rich in variety of and nutrition. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Barydakis lives her philosophy. Following my lesson, our weekends in Crete soon featured Saturdays with Barydakis. Each week we met for coffee in a different place of Chania, the ancient city on the island’s western shore, after which she took us on a leisurely walking tour to show us excellent local restaurants, and markets, and pointed out where to purchase good local wines. She led us to special churches, monasteries and gave us a thumbnail sketch of Cretan feast holidays. Our education included the island’s Second World War history and how it affected her village and family.

A Dish to Savour: Cheese and Spinach Pie

The dough
Ingredients
4 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup raki (Barydakis says white wine or lemon juice can be used instead)
a pinch of salt
warm water (as much as needed)
½ cup olive oil

Directions
Mix the ingredients and knead them well. The pastry must be a little soft. Leave it to ‘rest’ for half an hour, covered with a towel.

Zucchini fritters frying in olive oil in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

The Cheese stuffing
Ingredients
Equal amounts of ricotta and feta cheese
2 eggs
chopped sprigs of fresh mint
salt

Directions
Mix all the ingredients together and place on the pastry as below. Roll the dough until it is not more than 1-2 mm thick and then cut it into round shapes of about 8 cm in diameter. Put in a little stuffing and fold in a half moon shape. Seal the edges with a fork. Fry in hot olive oil. When they are browned on both sides, remove and serve.

Kali oreksi, enjoy your meal!

Yet even with UNESCO’s imprimatur on sites big and small, natural biospheres and even intangible culture, the same famous mega-monuments always seem to get the lion’s share of travel love. Lesser-known but equally worthy sites still fall to the wayside as travellers rush for the obligatory photos of world icons and check off another legendary site on the do-before-I-die lists.

UNESCO recognition through its World Heritage List and time in the subsequent travel spotlight can be a mixed blessing. On the one hand, a new site gets a big status boost and protection under the UNESCO umbrella. On the other hand, an influx of tourists adds pressures and more need for protection.

One way to curb this effect is for travellers to visit alternative heritage destinations where high tourism congestion isn’t causing problems. In that spirit, below is our list of seven UNESCO World Heritage all-stars plus just-as-incredible alternatives. Why not avoid the heavy traffic and step lightly while doing your own thing? That way, the all-stars won’t get loved to death and more places will have a chance to benefit. The photos will be just as cool.

The All-star: Chichén Itzá in Cancun, Mexico. Photo courtesy of flickr/Dtraveller

1. The All-Star: Chichén Itzá in Yucatan, Mexico

The iconic Mayan pyramid of Chichén Itzá was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988. Then, in 2007, it was nominated for the New Seven Wonders of the World. Now that it has officially been identified as one of the honoured seven, some predict tourist visits will double within five years. As a convenient day trip from the mass-tourism destination of Cancun, Chichén Itzá, given its amazing story and stunning coastal location, is the second-most-visited ruins site in Mexico. Authorities have gradually needed to close parts of the monument to the public, no longer allowing visitors to enter interior chambers.

The Alternative: Palenque in Chiapas, Mexico. Photo courtesy of flickr/Ivanka Majic

The Alternative: Palenque in Chiapas, Mexico

Deep in the jungle of Chiapas in southern Mexico are the ruins of the ancient Mayan city of Palenque, which was inscribed as an official UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. While it doesn’t attract the kind of mass tourism that Chichén Itzá does, thousands visit it each year. Guided tours fascinate with stories about the buildings’ precise astronomical alignment and visitors can still go into some of the ancient passages and chambers.

The All-star: The Great Wall of China. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Jakub Halun

2. The All-Star: Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China is one of the best-known world monuments of all time, but added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 1987. The Badaling section of the wall, near Beijing, attracts around 10 million visitors per year. Sadly, as a result, Geography in the News points out that “There is little concern over protection and conservation. Instead, exploitation of the site has culminated in an almost Disneyland type scene.” Booming tourism, development and inadequate protection are eating away at the Great Wall, of which as much as two-thirds are in a state of collapse.

The Alternative: Wall of Ston, Croatia. Photo courtesy of flickr/Poo-tee-weet?

The Alternative: Walls of Ston in Croatia

While nothing can really compare with the magnitude and might of the Great Wall of China, it is definitely not the only great wall in the world. In the historical city of Dubrovnik on the Adriatic coast of Croatia, for example, are the Walls of Ston, known as the “European Wall of China.” It dates back to the 15th century and its 5.5 kilometres of length form an irregular pentangle.

The All-star: The Parthenon, Athens, Greece. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Steve Swayne

3. The All-Star: Parthenon in Athens, Greece

Lit up and glowing over Athens, Greece at night, the Parthenon is the jewel of the Acropolis, the ancient city on a hill. As the grandest remains of Greek Antiquity, the Acropolis was deemed an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. Greece is a world tourism powerhouse, welcoming more than 17.5 million visitors each year. In 2005, Athens alone received 6,088,287 tourists (each of them wanting a photo of the Parthenon without any other tourists in it).

The Alternative: Temple of Bacchus, Baalbek, Lebanon. Photo courtesy of flickr/Ben Piven

The Alternative: Temple of Bacchus in Baalbek, Lebanon

One of five of Lebanon‘s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Baalbek demonstrates that Greece is definitely not the only Mediterranean country with amazing ancient ruins. As UNESCO states about the ancient imperial city, “The archaeological site of Baalbek represents a religious complex of outstanding artistic value and its majestic monumental ensemble, with its exquisitely detailed stonework, is a unique artistic creation which reflects the amalgamation of Phoenician beliefs with the gods of the Greco-Roman pantheon through an amazing stylistic metamorphosis.”

The All-star: Medina of Fes, Morocco. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Pawel Ryszawa

4. The All-Star: Medina of Fes, Morocco

Compared to Marrakech (one of Morocco‘s most famous destinations), the city of Fes is a modest place. Yet every visitor to inland Fes is bound to wander through its medina, the walled city centre that dates back to the 8th century. By some measures, it’s the largest car-free area in the world.

The Medina of Fes has been on the official UNESCO World Heritage roster since 1981, but may soon also be added to the list of World Heritage in Danger. UNESCO cites two major threats: uncontrolled urban development due to overpopulation, and deterioration of the buildings. The governmental plan to address these issues is to safeguard everything, intervene where houses are collapsing and increase sustainable tourism.

The Alternative: Medina of Tétouan, Morocco. Photo courtesy of flickr/luisgosalbez

The Alternative: Medina of Tétouan, Morocco

In the smaller and less-touristed city of Tétouan in northern Morocco, another medina has gained World Heritage status. Full of mosques, madrassas and markets, Tétouan’s ancient city centre exhibits the same definitive Moroccan culture and tradition as its better-known counterparts in Fes and other cities. While also in need of protection and conservation, Téotuan is less overwhelmed than the Medina of Fes and in a better position to absorb increasing tourism traffic.

The All-star: Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of flickr/daveperkes

5. The All-Star: Angkor Wat, Cambodia

A spectacular temple complex from the 12th century, Angkor Wat has been a power player for tourism in Cambodia since before its 1992 inauguration as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Thomas Holdo Hansen of AngkorHotels.org, the whl.travel local connection in Cambodia, comments that “Angkor would without doubt be on my personal Top 10 World Heritage Sites list. It’s not without good reason that this important archaeological site is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and comes high up on many people’s must-see lists. The flip side of the coin is that the recent increase in tourism potentially can bring about many negative impacts if not managed properly.”

The Alternative: Preah Vihear, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of flickr/theonlymikey

The Alternative: Preah Vihear, Cambodia

Compared to Angkor Wat, Preah Vihear is a minor temple complex. It’s a less-likely tourism destination because of political strife. “Preah Vihear is more controversial but still a stunning archaeological site,” says Hansen. “It is situated right on the top edge of a steep cliff bordering the Sisaket Province in Thailand. After its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, Preah Vihear has been the centre stage for some border conflicts between Thailand and Cambodia and, thus, many travellers have been discouraged from visiting.”

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The All-star: Machu Picchu, Peru. Photo courtesy of flickr/[togr

6. The All-Star: Machu Picchu, Peru

The year 2011was special for South America’s favourite pre-Colombian archaeological site of Machu Picchu. It marked 100 years since Hiram Bingham, a Yale University historian, arrived at the majestic high-elevation Incan citadel and announced its existence to the rest of the world. Machu Picchu was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Since then, UNESCO has had to fight many battles to protect it from private interests and overdevelopment, including the implementation of a daily visitor limit. Still, safe-keepers fear irreparable damage if poor administration continues in the face of surging tourism.

The Alternative: Wiñay Wayna, Peru. Photo courtesy of flickr/Greg Headley

The Alternative: Wiñay Wayna, Peru

Also along the Inca Trail in the Sacred Valley of Peru where Machu Picchu is found, Wiñay Wayna is a minor Incan ruins site that is often considered a mere “stop in the road” on the way to Machu Picchu. While it’s true that it can’t match Machu Picchu’s scale and grandeur, Wiñay Wayna charms and impresses. With staircases and fountain structures connecting the layers of terrace, it is a perfect example of the hillside architecture traditional to the Incas.

The All-star: The Great Pyramids of Giza, Egypt. Photo courtesy of Bruno Girin

7. The All-Star: Pyramids of Giza, Egypt

The Pyramids of Giza were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. They are, of course, Egypt‘s most visited attraction. In 1999, the largest of the three pyramids was reopened after a year of restoration work. The project’s goal was to undo some of the damage caused by long-term exposure to mass tourism. According to the BBC, “humidity levels in the tunnels and chambers inside had reached 80 percent because of the sheer volume of people going in,” which caused condensation and a build-up of salt. Since then, a cap of 300 visitors per day has been set on pyramid access.

The Alternative: The Pyramids of Gebel Barkal, Sudan. Photo courtesy of flickr/shovelingtom

The Alternative: Pyramids of Gebel Barkal, Sudan

The Pyramids of Gebel Barkal are part of the larger Gebel Barkal mountain site, which was approved as a UNESCO cultural World Heritage Site in 2003. It is one of only two in the country of Sudan. The Kushitic pyramids themselves were built as a royal cemetery in the 3rd century, which makes them only half as old as and very modest in size compared to the likes of the Great Pyramids of neighbouring Egypt. Travel to Sudan is complicated at the moment, but pieces of cultural heritage like this already under UNESCO protection hold promise for a tourism future.

Fabiola Duerig and her husband Oliver, the cofounders of Las Pleyades Travel, enjoy a sunset over the bay of Taganga in Santa Marta, Colombia. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

Fabiola is proud to call Colombia home and to share it with travellers eager for a local’s insights. As a seasoned traveller herself, she can appreciate the value of a local travel experience.

WHL Group: Which is your favourite WHL Group destination and which would you most like to visit?
Fabiola: My favourite destination at the moment is my own home – Santa Marta, Colombia – because I am able to experience its natural beauty every single day. Colombia as a whole is a great country in every sense, which more and more foreign tourists are starting to realise.

Outside of Colombia, the destination I would like to visit is India. Despite the poverty and misery I might see there, where 80 kids die every day from curable diseases like rabies, I don’t want to shut my eyes. It’s real. India has a very special culture and way of thinking, one so different from that of the western world. I also love their way of dancing and all the colours. I look forward to exploring it someday.

WHLG: What would you never travel without?
Fabiola: For me, the two biggest essentials are music and a passport. The rest are details.

Bahia Concha is part of what makes Santa Marta, Colombia Fabiola's favorite destination. It is also where she is lucky enought to call home. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

WHLG: What do you miss most about home when travelling?
Fabiola: I suppose it depends on the country I visit. Here on the coast of Colombia, I really miss the high quality and variety of European food, but if I were travelling in Argentina, for example, I wouldn’t notice this so much. What I always miss, no matter the destination, are my friends and family if they’re not there with me to share all the exciting experiences of travel.

WHLG: What’s the most adventurous trip you’ve ever taken?
Fabiola: I would have to say a trip down the Death Road from La Paz, Bolivia, to a small town in the mountains. It is said to be beautiful, but I don’t think it is worth it because the road is so dangerous that you see the old remains of vehicles down below. Also, local people drive so fast that accidents are inevitable. So I am just glad to have survived that!

WHLG: What is your funniest travel experience?
Fabiola: It’s hard to say which is the funniest because I’m lucky to have lots of really funny ones to choose from. On more than a few occasions, I’ve found myself in situations I almost could not believe because it was so funny and surreal. But at the same time I know that it will be less funny when I try to relate it to someone because you have to live it. This is one of the joys of travel with your partner or your friends – you can laugh so many times about the same stories for years. You will always have the memories of that extraordinary, unusual situation that you shared.

Oliver looks out onto the stunning hills of across from the bay of Tananga with Kike, another partner on the Las Pleyades team in Santa Marta, Colombia. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

For example, when I was travelling in Bolivia with a friend, the bus stopped in the middle of the night because there was a technical problem, as happens a lot there. When we got out of the bus to see what they were doing, we saw that they had pulled a frog out of the wheel! They managed this in a few hours without any technical instruments. It was amazing, but, as I said, it’s not that funny unless you were there.

WHLG: What is your scariest travel experience?
Fabiola: I felt frightened while crossing the border from Peru to Bolivia at night. I know now why it is not recommended!

WHLG: If you could go on holiday with anyone famous – living or dead – who would you take?
I would visit Fidel Castro with Albert Einstein in Cuba. I just think that they’re both admirable. Although they may have a lot of failures (like every human being), they are intelligent enough and I would help them to open their minds so we could improve all together. Maybe we’d find a political formula that solves all our social problems. Of course, I would take my husband Oliver with me too!

WHLG: Describe the best and worst accommodation you’ve ever stayed in.
Fabiola: The best would have to be Finca Barlovento here in Santa Marta between the river and the Caribbean Sea. The waves of the ocean sound like a whisper in your ears and the natural beauty just overwhelms you.

On the other end of the spectrum: as a backpacker I saw a lot of accommodations that compete for the ‘worst place’ award. Backpacker accommodations can surprise you in both negative and positive ways. I am happy with a clean bed in a clean room with a private bathroom, although it can also be shared, although shared bathrooms are generally less clean. The worst thing I’ve ever seen was in Peru, where the room smelled like bad eggs and Oliver found excrement on the floor of the bathroom. We decided to leave and found a great hostel (called La Casona) at a very fair price.

Fabiola and Oliver pose with team member Gilbert (center), who is one of their best drivers and friends. All three are very excited about their new vehicles, part of what makes them the best transfer service in Colombia between Santa Marta, Cartagena, Tayrona Park and Sierra Nevada. Photo courtesy of Las Pleyades Travel

WHLG: Describe your earliest travel memory.
Fabiola: I have early memories of the beaches in Southern Europe on holidays when I was two or three years old. I remember surfer beaches, the Mediterranean Sea and the Adriatic Sea.

WHLG: Please briefly explain what you think local travel is.
Fabiola: To me, local travel is being aware that you are visiting a different place where people have different habits and cultures, and if you are ready to accept and respect this, you can dive in and have a true travel experience. It’s about getting in touch with local people and eating in local restaurants to try the typical and recommended dishes. As an alternative to ‘all-inclusive’ resort-style travel, local travel means staying in small cabanas in the surrounding areas where you can see how local people really live, and choosing local tourist guides. Local guides can help you learn a lot about the people and their culture in a short time, because they have a great wealth of knowledge about the area, the history and the people.

WHLG: In what ways do you see local travel benefiting the country in which you live?
Local travel involves many different local people as the service providers of accommodations, tours and transportation. In this way, small companies have a chance to create jobs for more and more local people. We feel that, in our case, as a travel agency, this is one of our most important roles.

Space holds a special place in the human consciousness. Before we were even properly aware of it, we yearned for it. The stars, so important to humans as ancient sources of wisdom and guidance, hold just as much draw for us today as they did for our ancient ancestors. Today, though, our shared dream of slipping ‘the surly bonds of Earth‘ has been made a reality; we have taken the initial steps on the journey that will render space as another conquered frontier.

This genuinely amazing video, compiled by filmmaker Michael König using images shot from recent missions on the International Space Station (ISS), reveals the next step of that journey: reflection. We can’t help it when we contemplate the unparalleled beauty of our planet, the flashes of lightning beneath the shimmering green aurora, the crystal-clear lightmaps of our cities. It happens when we realise that we have achieved so much in some respects, but that we lack in others; that we are all united in calling this planet home and that we need to care for it and eachother; that we are, ultimately, so very small in the grand scheme of things.

Looking back on the planet that sustains us all seems almost like an afterthought for a species that’s about to step forward into the infinite realms of space. But if we’re ever to get anywhere, we should never forget where we come from.

There can be so much stress wrapped up in the simple act of catching a taxi. Book ahead with Green Path Transfers and you have peace of mind, in part because your travel is 100% carbon offset. This taxi waits near the Greek Parliament in Syntagma Square, Athens, Greece. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Salonica84

Triptrotting is all about connecting travellers with locals and then providing both with authentic experiences and opportunities to make new friends. I was the lucky gal chosen from among 300 others as the Ultimate Triptrotter and spent several weeks in Europe putting the Triptrotting network of travellers and hosts to the test.

Well, my Ultimate Triptrotting Adventures featured a lot of hopping from city to city, which meant a lot of time spent on planes and in airports. And I mean a lot of time: the start of my journey featured a period in which, thanks to Mother Nature (snow is nice, but not when it traps you in New Zealand), I barely set foot outside of an airport for five days.

Luckily for me, the WHL Group, with a little help from The Travel Word, stepped in and offered me the use of their innovative service known as Green Path Transfers, a global network of local eco-friendly airport transfer partners and ground transportation operators that transformed airport-city travel into something I anticipated rather than dreaded.

With ground transportation no longer a worry, in Istanbul, Yolanda met up with Salih, her Urban Adventures guide eager to share his love of his city and knowledge about Turkish life, including his his favourite Baklava cafe. Photo courtesy of Triptrotting

Much More Than a Transfer

Green Path Transfers was so much more than an airport transfer to me. As a traveller on a budget, I am used to taking the cheapest option to get into the city. This usually means one of three things:

1) scamming a friend into picking me up and hoping that they’ll still be there even if my flight is delayed
2) waiting around for a shuttle that will eventually take me to some inconvenient part of the city, or
3) scouring the airport for some form of public transportation, which then loops around and around suburbs for ages before ending up anywhere remotely close to civilization.

‘Splurging’ means getting a taxi, and it is only done as a last resort in the wee hours of the morning or when no other public transportation is available. Even that is usually not all that pleasant of an experience, as I can’t help wondering if the cab is actually a real cab, and if the driver is taking advantage of my clear unfamiliarity with the city by driving me around in circles.

A Taste of Something Different

Green Path Transfers was different: a global network of door-to-door ground transportation operators that provide a friendly face and reliable service at competitive costs, all while being green (using low-emissions vehicles and/or 100% carbon offsets).

Is the journey the way there or the destination? It's both, especially when the transport is simplified by Green Path Transfers and the goal is Athens, Greece, site of the world-famous Parthenon, sitting atop the Acropolis. Photo courtesy of Triptrotting

I was amazed at the ease with which I could get from the airport to my Triptrotting hosts! There was unfailingly someone at the airport to greet me, grab my bags and offer up both big smiles and lots of tips for ways to enjoy their cities. The drivers took great pride not only in their jobs, their cities and in maintaining high standards of service, but, as an added bonus, in knowing that they were doing right by the planet.

Especially to those of us concerned about how much carbon gets pumped into the atmosphere as a result of flights, Green Path Transfers promises some peace of mind. After all, Green Path Transfers is not just ‘green’ in name only. It aims to work with operators who use vehicles that are hybrids, run off biofuel, or whatever it takes to ensure reduced carbon emissions. As a further guarantee that the transfer is completely carbon neutral, Green Path Transfers offsets on any unavoidable emissions.

Now that I have had the good fortune of Green Path Transfer in Istanbul and in Athens, I can never go back to my old ways of long hours hauling luggage around on outdated and sketchy public transportation. Here’s to Green Path Transfers, where the grass truly is greener on the other side!

Turtles are curious creatures that have walked (and swum) this earth since the time of the dinosaurs. Little is known about this migratory animal that often will swim thousands of miles across oceans to return to the very beaches where they were born to lay their eggs. This green turtle was photographed in Seychelles, an image courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

Saving the marine turtle just may be one of the few things the international community can agree on these days. This seafaring migratory creature doesn’t know anything of borders, fishing routes or beach resorts properties. Unfortunately, though, these are the very factors threatening the sea turtle with extinction; finding ways to help them hasn’t been easy.

Despite being the subject of much inquiry, marine turtles have proven to be elusive subjects, creatures that date back to the age of dinosaurs, spend most of their time at sea and swim thousands of miles each year. In fact, female turtles only come to shore in the summer months to lay two to four batches of eggs. Each one digs a nest about 40-centimetres deep and lays 80-100 soft-shelled eggs. The mother turtle then leaves the nest and, after two months of incubation, the hatchlings emerge and make their way by the light of the moon to the sea. A lot can go wrong in this delicate process, which explains why, on average, 1 in 1,000 hatchlings survives.

Threats to Turtle Survival

There are seven species of sea turtles, only two of which are prominent in the Mediterranean – loggerhead and green turtles, although there have been occasional leatherback sightings as well. No one knows for sure how large the turtle populations once were in the Mediterranean, but in the 1950s and 1960s, turtle soup was considered a delicacy and the green turtle female population was notably weakened to fewer than 500 individuals. In the last 100 years, human factors in the region have continued to threaten these species to the point of endangerment.

Most turtles are caught as they push up the beach to lay their eggs. Many are killed and large numbers of their eggs harvested for food. Laws now outlaw such practices, but turtle populations have yet really to reinforce their numbers. Part of the reason for this is turtles are just as vulnerable at sea as they have been on land, as many sea turtles are routinely caught in long fishing nets and lines and are either drowned or, when released, prone to die of the injuries sustained in the nets.

Perhaps most devastating of all is the boom in beach developments along the Mediterranean coast and islands. Each turtle will only lay her eggs on the same beach where she was born. This means that if a beach is lost to a resort or seaside restaurant, an entire colony of turtles can be wiped out.

Turtles are at their most vulnerable when laying their eggs. The number of human-caused obstacles that occur at this delicate time are innumerable, from bright hotel lights and over-trodden beaches to trash, large fishing nets and beach development. This green turtle was seen in Sandakan, Malaysia, photo courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

The Benefits of Turtle Tourism

In the face of all these challenges, marine turtles persevere. The most populous loggerhead and green nesting grounds in the region are in Kefalonia, Greece, with other prominent sites in North Cyprus and Dalyan, Turkey. On the nearby Arabian Peninsula, one beach in Oman hosts 15,000 green turtle nests each year, the largest nesting site in the region.

Thankfully, in recent years, several of these key nesting sites have taken a different approach to tourism. Local tourism providers have realised – some faster than others – that keeping turtles around isn’t just good for the environment, it’s good for business too. By offering turtle-safe viewing areas and organised volunteer activities, such as beach cleanups – or ‘turtle rescues’ from traditional shallow nets – animal-curious tourists learn about local turtles and how to protect them. It’s a self-fulfilling circle that provides education for tourists and locals alike while giving the turtles what they need to survive.

Turtle Security in Action

When in the Mediterranean, if you want to see turtles or volunteer for a local organisation, there are several places from which to choose. In the Middle East, the most prominent one is Ras Al Jinz in Oman, home to 15,000 green turtle nests, the largest concentration In the region.The community of Ras Al Jinz has embraced the turtle phenomenon and, thanks to the centrally located Scientific Research Center and the cooperation of many hotels in Ras Al Jinz, the beach as maintained as a nesting site and the turtles are well cared for.

For example, the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve hotel has minimal lighting in order to not disturb the nesting turtles at night. The nearby Turtle Beach Resort is great base from which to explore the surrounding wildlife; it offers turtle, bird and dolphin watching, along with snorkelling and diving trips. You can even stay adjacent to the Ras Al Jinz Scientific Research Center at the Carapace Lodge, which is ideally situated for early-morning and late-night turtle sightings far from the other accommodation. There are also many tours in Oman that combines visits to the Wahiba sands with experiences at the Ras Al Jinz turtle reserve.

Right in the Mediterranean basin, the three main loggerhead- and green-turtle viewing sites are in Kefalonia, Greece; North Cyprus; and Dalyan, Turkey. On the island of Kefalonia, Mounda Beach is the most famous nesting site for loggerhead turtles. Fears of overdevelopment and burgeoning tourism have seen the establishment of associations like the Katelios Group, an assembly of locals who began working together in 1994 to help conserve the turtle population and natural wildlife.

Turtles are natural seafaring creatures that can measure up to 51 inches (130 centimetres) in length and weigh 660 pounds (300 kilograms). They are the earth's oldest living reptiles. Known for their shy defensive mechanisms, turtles actually have some of the best night vision in the animal kingdom. This loggerhead turtle was is off the coast of Turkey near Kas. Photo courtesy of Flickr/whltravel

In North Cyprus, tour operator Kaleidoskop Turizm often sends turtle-seeking guests to the Marine Turtle Conservation Project, which cooperates with post-graduate students to research the effect of fisheries on turtle populations. Turtle watching in North Cyprus can be arranged through a variety of tours, though viewing through a conservation project is usually most beneficial to the turtles as they have closely monitored nesting times, migration patterns and feeding habits.

Dalyan, Turkey, is one of the most famous examples of successful turtle conservation in the Mediterranean. In 1986, Izutuzu Beach (now known as ‘Turtle Beach’) was slated for a large luxury-hotel development. However, because the beach is one of the key nesting grounds of the loggerhead turtle, international condemnation, helmed by David Bellamy himself, successfully reversed the decision and now the beach is a protected site. Wooden stakes mark nesting sites and visitors are encouraged to be careful where they walk, as the sand could get packed down and make digging a nest more difficult. Izutuzu Beach was named the world’s best beach in 1995 and is regarded as a hallmark of successful conservation. Many beach hotels in Dalyan are located near the site, but the part of the beach housing nests is closed during incubation and hatching periods.

Beach Rules to Follow

Many beaches are still unprotected in the Mediterranean and Middle East, where turtles are facing an uphill battle. But all is not lost. For tourists, following a few simple guidelines is essential and could mean the difference between extinction and survival.

So the next time you’re on a turtle’s beach, be sure to:

1. Pick up your trash. Like sea birds, turtles can become strangled in plastic rings and bags.
2. Only place umbrellas or other fixtures in wet sand. Turtles nest in dry sand and driving stakes into it could damage the nests.
3. Not walk on the beach at night. Hatchlings use the light from the stars and moon to guide their path to the sea. Loud noises or lights will frighten nesting turtles and confuse hatchlings.
4. Not touch or move turtle hatchlings going toward the ocean. This imprints on the turtle during a key period in the first few hours of their life. Also, they develop and use key muscle groups in their walk to the ocean. If you want to help, stay out of the way and clear any obstructions, like sandcastles or trash.
5. Not camp or drive on the beach. This packs down the sand and makes digging a nest difficult.
6. Make sure your hotel has a ‘low light’ policy as bright lights from large developments or beach-front hostels are one of the primary deterrents for nesting turtles.

You can learn more about turtle conservation in Europe and other parts of the world through the Sea Turtle Conservancy.

On the one hand, the forces of globalisation and business on an international scale continue to develop, shifting the balance of power away from individuals and into the hands of corporate bodies.

On the other hand, individuals and families are resisting this movement. An increasing number of people have taken a stance against the erosion of individuality and local values, binding together with those in their local areas to reassert their independence and unique characteristics.

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The Economics of Happiness film refers to the latter as an economics of ‘localization’ – the process of recognising and promoting the value of local abilities and assets in the face of a rapidly homogenising world.

From a traveller’s perspective, this documentary poses some interesting questions. For example, should we be so quick to jet overseas blithely when our actions contribute to significant environmental problems? On the other hand, without recognition the appeal of local values and regional distinctions, what would be the point of travelling at all? After all, the idea of ‘local travel’ is at the heart of a growing number of mindful travel companies, many of them now associated with something called the Local Travel Movement, a not-for-profit platform started by people from companies founded on a passion for Local Travel and commitment to Local Travel values.

We feel that this film waves some important flags, raises some thoughtful points of discussion for all of us who love to travel, particularly about the reasons that we choose to do so. We hope you feel the same way.

Projects in Kenya, Peru, Sri Lanka and Brazil have been announced as the winners of the first travel2change idea challenge. Over 500 members joined the travel2change online community since its launch in late April 2011, and submitted around 60 innovative project proposals. The submitted ideas were evaluated based on creativity, effectiveness, impact, feasibility and sustainability.

The children participating in the travel2change project in Oyugis, Kenya, were shown and then practiced how to wash hands properly with soap in order to prevent the spread of germs and diseases. The children were trained as role models, who will then replicate the idea in the wider community, starting in their own homes. Photo courtesy of travel2Change

The four winning projects were named on July 17, 2011, by a jury of experts and will be realized in the coming months, thanks to the support of the travel partner Kuoni. Each winning project receives financial support as well as the help of volunteer travelers, who will collaborate with the local communities to bring the projects to life.

Travel2change First Challenge Winners

SEP – Soccer, Education and Prevention (Oyugis, Kenya)

In Oyugis, Kenya, travel2change, together with the Society Empowerment Project (SEP), hosted a four-day football event for around 300 children. Along with teaching life skills, teamwork and football skills, volunteer travelers will now train the children in proper hand washing techniques and the importance of basic hygiene. The production of soap from locally sourced materials will also be part of the program.

300 children from all over Kenya participated in the SEP Football Tournament in Oyugis where they learned about life skills, teamwork and the importance of basic hygiene and hand washing with soap. Photo courtesy of travel2change

Getting Kids Pumped for School (Horana, Sri Lanka)

The aim of Getting Kids Pumped for School is to connect a local school to its well so the children have access to running water for drinking and sanitation, which will help improve the children’s health, thus reducing the risk of dengue and other communicable diseases. This will be achieved by installing pumps, water tanks and pipes, as well as expanding the depth of the well. Visiting travelers will contribute to the project by assisting with the installation of pumps and water tanks.

AmazonArt at the Combu Education Centre (Combu Island, Brazil)

AmazonArt aims to employ music and the arts to inspire the children and local community. Its goal is to create awareness and understanding of the importance of protecting the rainforest, river and its local communities. Together with the staff of AmazonArt, travelers will assist with music and art classes and provide English lessons along with a cultural exchange to local children. Travelers will have a chance to improve the infrastructure of the school through basic construction projects and educate the children on the importance of safe drinking water and hygiene.

Travel2change will assist local staff from WAVES for Development in running a number of activities to create life-enriching experiences in the coastal community of Lobitos, Peru. This will be done through education programs that help develop youth into healthy and empowered adults, and of course surfing and swimming lessons. Photo courtesy of travel2Change

WAVES for Development (Lobitos, Peru)

WAVES for Development aims to create life-enriching experiences through education programs to develop healthy and empowered adults. The traveler will join local staff to teach local children water safety, beach management and environmental conservation among other things, and of course, surfing classes. Cultural exchange through activities to increase healthy living and teaching skills for life is another great benefit of the program.

All travelers will provide frequent updates to give all community members the opportunity to monitor the realization of the projects.

Are You Ready to Travel2change?

Travel2change is now offering the chance for you to participate in the Sri Lanka project and the Peru project this fall (September-October 2011). Travelers will play an active part in carrying out the activities to help successfully implement the goals of these projects. To learn more about the Travel2change Join This Trip Contest and to apply, please go to review the contest details here.

The One Day on Earth project began in 2008, with the vision of uniting the entire world in a single film-related project. The potential for collaboration offered by the internet is something that continues to be explored to this day, but the group behind One Day on Earth set out to achieve something that had never been seen before: a collection of moments, experiences and events from all corners of the globe with a single unifying experience – they all took place on the same day.

The 10th of October 2010 (10/10/10) was the distinctive date chosen to be documented in never-before-seen detail by crews from around the world. The beauty and diversity displayed in every country on the planet was captured for all to see. It has now been compiled into a full-length feature. You can view the trailer below:

One Day on Earth – Motion Picture Trailer from One Day On Earth on Vimeo.

Despite some confusion with director Ridley Scott’s Hollywood offering, Life in a Day, One Day on Earth, which is due to be repeated on November 11th this year (11/11/11), aims to raise awareness of the environmental issues that we face together as a race, as well as the interconnectedness of all aspects of life on the planet. In addition, it specifically intends to draw attention to causes in need of your support, including 350.org, Human Rights Watch, Oxfam and the WWF.

You can pre-order the complete 10/10/10 feature and find out how you can get involved in upcoming events on the One Day on Earth website.

“I suggest you take an airplane,” he said.

Maybe his advice was because I was a woman travelling alone. Maybe it was because that bus route had been plagued by protesters and blockades in Puno, Peru, for the past month and bus companies were cancelling trips on that road or rerouting them in order to avoid the blockades, adding four more hours to what was normally an eight- to 10-hour long route. Maybe it was because overland border crossings tend to be a little rougher than the customs lines at airports. Or perhaps it was simply because I was in a tourist information office and tourists tend to seek the path of least resistance.

I considered my options: a 14-hour overnight bus ride or a one-hour flight. “I think I’ll hope that the blockades clear up and take the bus,” I said.

The bus terminal is where long journeys to other parts of Peru and South America begin. Photo by Flickr/Martintoy

I made my decision for a combination of reasons. I bought my bus ticket from Cusco to La Paz in part because there was no online booking system for the one Bolivian airline offering flights. I also made my decision because, with La Paz around 12,000 feet above sea level – 1,000 feet higher than Cusco – I figured the bus trip would be better way to adjust to the difference. I made my choice because there was a price difference of about $90 and also because I had been thinking a lot about airplane travel: its heavy carbon emissions and its insulation from the local experience of place and journey in which I believe.

The Long, Local Ride

That night at 10pm, I boarded the first of three buses for a trip that actually lasted over 20 hours. During the first stretch from Cusco to Puno, I got out my blackout eye mask and my travel pillow. Cold, I pulled out my travel towel and used that as a blanket. I was caught in a half-sleep delirium that lasted all the way to Puno, our first stop, at 5am, when we were all unloaded and instructed to wait at the terminal for an hour and a half for a different bus that would take us to the border.

A 90-minute layover at a bus terminal in Peru at 5am? My ticket hadn’t said anything about that. Crankily, I made my way to the upstairs cafe and ordered a chamomile tea. I sat at a table with the woman who had been sitting next to me on the bus and we huddled by a little space heater. She was Peruvian, but had emigrated to Spain several years ago and now she was home on vacation to see her family and to take care of some paperwork. We shared experiences and pondered immigration laws. As we parted ways on different buses, she called out in Spanish, “The time passed so quickly. Take care!”

To cross the border between Peru and Bolivia, bus passengers walk under an arch. Customs and immigrations offices await on both sides. Photo by Flickr/T-Oh! & Matt

My second bus took me to the border. At customs, we were all unloaded again and shuffled through the first line for an exit stamp from Peru. We walked under a brick arch that was the border and on to Bolivian Immigration, the office I had been dreading for months. In retaliation against the U.S. and its difficult visa policy toward Bolivians, Bolivia requires a number of documents and a large fee from Americans seeking tourist visas. I had assembled my passport, my letter of invitation, my yellow fever vaccination card, two passport-sized photos, a bank statement, my itinerary as proof of onward travel and the cash payment.

When I presented the folder to the official, he leered at me. “Nice photo,” he said. “Can I have one to keep?” I blinked, sleep-deprived and dazed. “Is all the paperwork okay?” I asked. He hardly glanced at all the requisite documents that I had collated so carefully. He took the dollar bills and examined them closely. “This one has a tear in it. So does this one. We can’t accept these. The bank will not take them from us.” Five out of six of my bills were unacceptable. Meanwhile, the bus driver was glaring at me for delaying the bus. Frantic, I rifled through my emergency cash reserves and found just enough bills that were acceptably new.

I made my way back to the bus and collapsed into the seat for a six-kilometres sprint into the nearby town of Copacabana, Bolivia. We stopped, unloaded everything again and waited for a different, smaller bus that would take us to La Paz. That left me with just 20 minutes to scramble down the main road in search of a food stand. I returned to the bus stop just in time to reload my luggage and take my seat.

Crossing the Strait of Tiquina on Lake Titicaca, Bolivia, involves unloading passengers and steering the buses onto bus-only barges. Meanwhile, passengers cross on 'lancha' motorboats. Photo by Flickr/jimmyharris

The Final Stretch to La Paz

On the bus, a Japanese woman (also travelling solo) and I shared a package of cookies and watched out the window as the blue landscapes of Lake Titicaca rolled by. Unfortunately just as I was finally feeling fed, warm and comfortable enough to try to nap, the bus stopped again and we were asked to unload.

What was it this time? We had reached the Strait of Tiquina. Here, I realised why we had had to change to a smaller bus back in Copacabana. Buses are transported across the stretch of lake on barges, while the passengers a ferried in lancha motor boats.

At around 6pm, I was finally in a taxi in La Paz on the way to my friend Raul’s house, where I would be visiting for a few days. His mom opened the door and I staggered in with my luggage, dizzy from the journey and the altitude. “You look like you have the hangover of a lifetime,” she laughed. “Drop everything and sit down. I’ll make you some mate de coca.”

The 20-hour journey by bus from Cusco, Peru, ended with a taxi ride in Bolivia's high-elevation capital city of La Paz. Photo by Flickr/Claudius Prößer

Raul joined us at the kitchen table and I relayed anecdotes from the 20-hour bus marathon I had just completed. “Do you wish you had taken a plane instead of the bus?” his mother asked. I paused, undecided. Then Raul spoke up: “I think you’ve had a more Bolivian experience taking the bus. Bus travel in South America – long bus rides – is a part of life for people in South America. The bus trip you’ve just made is standard for us. Some are much longer.”

Now, looking back, the answer is a definitive: No, I don’t wish I had taken a plane from Cusco to La Paz. The 20-hour bus-bus-bus-boat-bus-taxi ride was a rite of passage into the local experience of South American life. And the $90 savings meant I could buy more local alpaca goods here in Bolivia!

Back in 2006 my friend Legs and I packed our bags and bikes and headed to Iceland for a six-week pootle round the island. We’d originally been looking at cycling to Norway’s North Cape, but for a variety of reasons (which I can’t quite remember) we sacked that idea and decided to go cycling in Iceland. The cycling trip ended up being some of the most amazing six weeks of my life – howling gales that lasted days, thoroughly pot-holed dirt tracks, stunning views and the invention of tuna tikka-massala.

Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) and Much Better Adventures

We started our cycling in Iceland from Reykjavik and headed out on Route 1 (the circular road around the whole island). At Borgarnes we took route 54, then 56 to Stykkishólmur, where we took the ferry to Brjánslækur. We then worked our way to Ísafjörður and then back to Route 1 along Route 61. We roughly followed this past Akureyri to Lake Mývatn, and then U-turned back and followed the Kjöller route through the interior toward Reykjavik. We then cycled along the south coast on Route 1 for a while and then caught the bus back!

Iceland Cycling Travel Tips

New to cycling? Cycling in Iceland was my second proper cycle tour – I’d done New Zealand earlier that year – so I had a vague idea of what to expect. In my opinion cycle touring isn’t something that requires a lot of experience to get a lot out of it. Sure, I’m not sure I’d go and cycle some of the high passes in the Tajik Pamir Mountains as my first tour, but in general I feel it’s a really accessible form of travel.

Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) and Much Better Adventures

How to train? Just get the miles in on the bike! Definitely worth trying out your touring bike with panniers (or trailer!) loaded up too, just to see how it handles in various conditions. There are plenty of hills and poor surfaces to contend with when cycling Iceland, so it’s best to make sure you are comfortable in a range of conditions. It also gives you an excuse to go on shorter weekend practice trips beforehand!

Advice for a safe and enjoyable cycling trip: Be sure of the cycling kit you are using, and make sure you can erect your tent, or light your stove in some pretty unpleasant conditions. Being able to break camp pretty quickly helps, so perhaps a bit of experience camping first would be an advantage! We went cycling in Iceland without a guide, just a map. Iceland doesn’t have a particularly extensive road system, and we didn’t really have any plans – just headed out of Reykjavik in a clockwise direction! We used a guide book from time to time, just in case there was anything ‘not to miss’, or to find details of campsites.

Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) and Much Better Adventures

When to go? The weather in Iceland isn’t exactly balmy – we experienced hail in July, and were effectively trapped on a campsite by a storm for three days whilst our camping compatriots’ tents flew around the campsite. We went cycling in June and July, taking advantage of the better than average weather and long daylight hours (I used my torch once in six weeks, at 3am, to look deep into a pannier). We were, however, rained on pretty much constantly for three weeks and then intermittently for the next three weeks. You can’t guarantee the weather in Iceland!

Must-have gear: Bring a waterproof tent that is easy to put up and spacious. There’s nothing worse than getting into a wet tent when you are already wet. We used a Terra Nova tent on our trip and were very happy! Thermarest and three-season sleeping bag for ultimate sleeping comfort and light weight. Gas is pretty easy to get for camping stoves, however we used liquid fuel, which was also very accessible in Iceland. Make sure to take a range of cycling clothing – waterproof and regular – and a Buff, mainly for blocking out the light when trying to sleep!

Midnight sea kayaking on Flatey. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) and Much Better Adventures

Where to stay on your Iceland cycling trip: While cycling in Iceland we camped every night bar one (when we were offered a hotel room for the price of the camping as the weather was so bad). Most villages (and quite often farms and hotels) had campsites in Iceland, so we never struggled to find somewhere. Only when cycling through the Iceland Interior were we required to press on and cover larger distances to find somewhere to camp. Wild camping isn’t encouraged, and there aren’t many places to camp in the Interior!

Getting there: Getting to Iceland is likely to require a flight. You can use the Much Better Adventures flight finder to find your flights from a more efficient fleet. Ferries do go from Denmark (via the Faroe Islands), but they aren’t particularly cheap and take a few days (more information on ferries can be found here).

Both Kestas and his business partner, Vilija, are devoted travellers themselves. Together with a group of friends, they’re always travelling around Lithuania and the Baltic region, whether it be for a weekend getaway or a month-long vacation. Kestas’ love for his native land inspired him to start a business dedicated to sharing its beauties with others.

Kestas Lukoskinas, the whl.travel local partner in Lithuania, poses in front of the Caucasus Mountains during a visit he made to the country of Georgia. Photo courtesy of Kestas Lukoskinas

WHL Group: Which is your favourite WHL Group destination and which would you most like to visit?
Kestas: My favourite destination is my homeland of Lithuania, but I would like to visit my whl.travel counterparts all throughout the whl.travel network. I’m interested in every single country that’s a whl.travel destination, especially the ones that I have never visited.

WHLG: What would you never travel without?
Kestas: I don’t hit the road without my mobile phone with integrated GPS, a good camera and a credit card with its details protected.

WHLG: What do you miss most about home when travelling?
Kestas: I would have to say my circle of friends – if they are not travelling along with me – and my two cats.

WHLG: What’s the most adventurous trip you’ve ever taken?
Kestas: I’ll always remember a 15-kilometre urban trek I did from Dublin city centre to Dublin Airport in the spring of 2006. I had no cash and my credit card was blocked, so I could not take a bus or a taxi. I had found a cheap plane ticket to go to Amsterdam for a weekend to meet up with some friends. Walking on the highway to the airport is prohibited, so I needed to go through huge districts with nothing but a maze of warehouses and office buildings.

To be on time for check-in, getting lost was not an option. I left from my starting point in Dublin city centre very early in the morning with nothing but my backpack. I underestimated my own walking speed, which gained me some time, but then a nervous detour around some long fences in a prohibited area cost me some time. Somehow, I found a way through and reached the airport on time!

The Vilnius Cathedral Basilica and Bell Tower is one of many sites that makes Kestas Lukoskinas' home country of Lithuania his favourite travel destination. Photo courtesy of The Beautiful Land of Nevermind

WHLG: What is your funniest travel experience?
Kestas: Of all the funny, crazy things that have happened to me on my travels, there are two that I remember most. One is this vacation where I was driving through Texas and was pulled over by police in the middle of nowhere. The situation was so odd and unreal because there was no one for hundreds of miles in all directions. I even took a picture with the police car, to prove to myself in the future that it really happened.

The second was when I was travelling in the country of Georgia with friends. For a couple days we stayed in a resort by the Black Sea on the border of Turkey. Since we were so near to the Turkish border, we one day decided to walk to Turkey, just to see it. The plan was to have a pint of Turkish beer and then head back to Georgia. Instead we spent around three hours at the customs stations on both sides of the border. Then we paid enormous fees for visas only to find out that there was some celebration going on in Turkey and all border pubs were closed.

We had a couple of bills of Turkish currency, so we bought two small bottles of beer in a shop, but we were not allowed to drink them publicly. So we returned to Georgia, sat down in an open-air pub and drank those two bottles. In the end, we set two records on that trip. The first is that it was our shortest country visit ever; we were in Turkey for about a half an hour. The second is that it was the most expensive beer we had ever bought; considering the visa fees each bottle cost around $25!

WHLG: What is your scariest travel experience?
Kestas: While I was living and working in Ireland, on one of the national holidays I rented a car and went to see the famous Cliffs of Moher in the west of the country. I stopped somewhere near the dramatic coast (but before reaching my destination) and went to watch the huge waves roaring and crashing against the cliffs.

I walked down approximately 100 metres to where waves almost reached my feet. Suddenly, I slipped on wet rocks, twisted an ankle and fainted. Thank God I did not fall off the cliff. I awoke in pain and regretted that I had made the trip alone. It took me forever to crawl back up from the ledge and then to drive to the nearest guesthouse, where I got some ice to cure my swelling ankle. I rested and returned home to Dublin without ever having reached the Cliffs of Moher.

In Kestas Lukoskinas' hometown of Vilnius, Lithuania, the Gothic St. Ann's Church and Bernardine Monastery are two gems out of a total of 42 total churches. Photo courtesy of The Beautiful Land of Nevermind

WHLG: If you could go on holiday with anyone famous – living or dead – who would you take?
Kestas: I’m going to go with Sir Anthony Hopkins and Sir Richard Branson. I think the three of us would have a great time.

WHLG: Describe the best and worst accommodation you’ve ever stayed in.
Kestas: The best would have to be Peric Family Camping in Croatia, near Dubrovnik. Early in the morning, while you are still sleeping, the owner, Mr. Nedjeljko Peric, quietly brings delicious red and white handcrafted wine, fresh spring water and bowls with fresh mussels and oysters, and leaves them by your tent! Because of this camping spot and the hospitality of the owner, I have been to Croatia four times and plan to keep returning.

I’d say the worst was an apartment in Amsterdam. I had found a place through a website of private accommodation providers. The apartment was so dirty that, even though we had paid up front, my girlfriend and I did not stay, choosing instead to leave a note to the owners with a suggestion to clean their apartment.

WHLG: Describe your earliest travel memory.
Kestas: I was riding in the child seat of my father’s three-wheeled motorcycle. I was wearing the helmet, but not goggles or glasses. I was crying as bugs hit my face all along the road.

WHLG: Please briefly explain what you think local travel is.
Kestas: Local travel is interaction with locals. It’s getting to know not only a bunch of facts about their history, but also how they live nowadays and what they dream about. Economically, it means choosing to buy travel services more from locals than from international corporations. Geographically, it’s about visiting not only established tourist destinations, but also going off the beaten track. Local travel in Lithuania is like having a friend or acquaintance in the destination you choose. Local travellers explore a destination slowly, without “consuming” it.

WHLG: In what ways do you see local travel benefiting the country in which you live?
Kestas: If travellers find a trusted local friend and advisor in a destination they plan to visit, this local contact will suggest the most beneficial ways to travel in the country they live, one of value to both the travellers and the locals. Locals like us love to support small family tourism businesses and their communities.

The devoted team at The Beautiful Land of Nevermind is your whl.travel local connection. They can assist you with any travel request to make your visit to Lithuania one you will never forget.