Will the world end? Probably not. This date is simply the end of a 5,125-year-long cycle on the Mayan calendar. While many people believe that its finish portends major astronomical phenomena, which have been largely misinterpreted and misunderstood as ‘end times’ prophesies, other new-age interpretations of the date herald it as the end of one spiritual era and the beginning of another – we will undergo a transformation, they say.

The highest points of Tikal's pyramids rise above the surrounding rainforest canopy. Tikal is a Mayan must-see ruin in Guatemala. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

Rather than preparing for the apocalypse, though, why not plan a 2012 tour of the Mayan pyramids and prophesies in Guatemala? Explore the grand ruins of ancient Mayan civilisations. Meet a traditional living Mayan community of today and find out firsthand what they are thinking and doing as you take part in sacred rituals and ceremonies.

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins of Tikal and Cancuen

On one such itinerary – an eight-day short break offered by Gunyah – the final visit is to Tikal, one of the most famous and visited ruins sites in the western hemisphere. Nothing short of resplendent, it is the archaeological site with the most restored pyramids in Guatemala. Its towering monuments and sprawling acropolis are some of the highest structures in the Americas from the Classic Period of 200 to 900 AD, when the Mayan civilisation was at its prime. Tikal was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Before reaching Tikal, there’s a chance to take in one of the lesser-known Mayan heritage sites like Cancuén. Cancuén has no pyramids to compete with Tikal; rather, its ancient inhabitants are believed to have lived in the woods and caves nearby, while the royalty lived in the palaces whose ruins are a highlight for visitors today. Cancuén is unique as an archaeological site because its local indigenous community remains intact. Through sustainable tourism initiatives like the Gunyah experience, local guides are working together with archaeologists to stay connected with their heritage and share it with visitors.

At the heart of the Gunyah pyramids and prophesies tour is interaction with local Mayan people - a Q'eqchi community - to share their culture, traditions and even a ceremony or ritual. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

Experience Mayan Ceremonies and Legends Firsthand

Any pyramids-and-prophecies tour should take you directly into a local Mayan community, where you can interact with the people and participate in a traditional ritual. One day of the Gunyah experience is dedicated to sharing in a ceremony with the community. What ritual it will be depends on the time of the year; for example, it could be a ceremony in the dry season asking for rain.

The Maya people have ceremonies for almost all aspects of daily life. Carried down through the generations from ancient teachings, these ceremonies are sacred and it is rare that outsiders are allowed to participate. However, the community shares its unique ceremonies with travellers in order to explain their importance. This way, visitors can learn about Mayan beliefs. It’s a chance to ask questions!

Beyond the End Times Prophecies

If you plan a pyramids and prophecies tour to coincide exactly with December 21, 2012, in hopes of seeing the world implode from its Mayan epicentre, you may be disappointed. More than apocalyptic rumours and hype, the Gunyah short break is about experiences with real local Mayan people in Guatemala, the Q’eqchi. It’s a chance to coexist with them and take part in their living culture – their traditions, their ceremonies and their daily life. By sharing meals and stories, you can see directly how they apply their sacred calendar and cosmic vision of the world to their everyday lives.

Beyond the ancient Mayan ruins and local culture, the Gunyah pyramids and prophesies tour itinerary is full of magic moments in Guatemala's wild green outdoors. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

The Gunyah Pyramids and Prophecies experience is also a great way to make the most of eight days in Guatemala. In addition to the visits to two ancient ruins and interactions with a local community, the itinerary packs in highlights and surprises like special lodging in the colonial city of Antigua, a tubing trip through the Candelaria Caves and a boat tour down the Pasión River.

Looking for more local and authentic trips in Guatemala and all over the world? Gunyah short breaks combine the mind-blowing spontaneity of independent travel with the convenience of a package holiday vacation for people who want real experiences when they travel.

We are about 10 kilometres from San Cristóbal de las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico, in a town called Chamula, where the indigenous Tzotzil people earnestly protect their society and way of life.

Unlike traditional churches in Mexico, the San Juan Chamula Church near San Cristobal de las Casas does not have pews or even allow photographs of the interior. Inside is a syncretism of Christianity and Maya spiritual belief. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

If you gauge this village by modern standards, it would appear there are only negatives:

* Photos of the people and their church’s interior are forbidden.
* Locals consume no dairy products; the community diet is mostly vegetarian and animals are raised for their skins, not their milk or meat.
* Birth dates are not recorded and birthdays not celebrated. In the community cemetery, high on the hill outside the town, wooden crosses bear only the dates of death.
* Women cannot vote.
* Women neither cut their thick black hair nor wear makeup.

However, it is our guide, César, once a Chamulan resident, who patiently explains why this community locked in time has chosen not to change: Descendant from the Maya, Chamulan society is patriarchal in keeping with traditions of their ancestors that they carry on. Their religion, for example, is based on the ancient healing rituals of the Maya, but adapted to their current needs.

Daily Life in Chamula

Only men can elect civic leaders, who are paid by the Mexican government, which accepts this community’s autonomy. During elections in Chamula, male voters cheer or raise their hats for a favoured candidate, while opponents succumb to catcalls, slingshots and even thrown eggs.

Meanwhile, women breastfeed their children – often eight of them, or even more, per family – for as long as possible and carry them in cloth slings on their backs. Interestingly, children are born with the Mongolian birthmark, a distinctive feature, also known as a ‘blue spot,’ and which is common among Asians, East Indians, Africans and Hispanic people, indicating a connection among the races despite their far-flung locations.

Women from nearby indigenous villages in Mexico, such as San Cristobal de las Casas, sell their produce and textiles in the Chamula marketplace, which takes place in the town's centre square in front of San Juan Chamula Church. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

The dress code for both men and women is based on natural fabrics. Men wear tunics of black or white sheep’s wool (depending on the season), while the women wear distinct skirts of black wool, sometimes patterned, set off by hand-embroidered satin blouses of bright hues like lilac and turquoise. In cold weather, everyone hugs shawls around their shoulders, even though their feet remain exposed in the same kind of open sandals worn by their ancestors.

These clothes are worn whether, like the men, they are working in town or in the fields. Many of the men also travel to the U.S. for transitory jobs, whereas the women sell their woven wares all over Mexico, travelling away from home for three months at a time.

The Importance of Ritual

Both men and women make it clear that they do not want to be photographed, and photography inside their church is forbidden. We are warned about this edict again and again and suspect there is a fear that the camera could capture the church’s spiritual energy or an individual’s soul. When the time is right, though, César leads us respectfully into San Juan Chamula Church, where we cross a threshold into another time and space.

Stepping inside the church is a truly mystical experience. The first impression is one of vastness. There are no pews, so family gatherings and rituals take place on the floor marked by lit candles and covered with fresh pine needles. The needles are changed frequently, so the fragrance mixes with that of hundreds of softly lit candles and heady incense, not to mention string and percussion music played continuously at the side of the altar and nonstop chanting. It is all a euphoria for the senses, added to by the mirrors on statues of the saints; they symbolise the reflection of the sun and serve as protection against the evil eye.

Women from Chamula, Mexico, often travel for up to three months to other parts of the country to sell their weavings. This helps them sustain their communities in their struggle for recognition as indigenous peoples. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

As we slowly meander toward the altar, winding our way through families sitting beside rows of glowing candles, we notice a healer. She has clasped a hen’s legs together and, holding the bird upside down, is passing the hen along the body of an ill person to rid him of evil spirits. The family has brought eggs, Pepsi and Coke symbolising black corn, and pox (pronounced ‘posh’), which is a liquor concoction of sugar and pineapple.

The Rule of Law

The locals in Chamula also continue the time-honoured custom of appointing cargo (office) holders, who perform important religious and ceremonial duties. These holders take care of one particular saint for a year. If a cargo holder looks after more than one saint, he is called a mayordomo; overseeing many saints means one becomes a principale, whose role is to offer advice and settle disputes in the community. Status is the only reward for these volunteer leaders, since they are paid neither for their services nor for the festivities over which they preside to honour their saints.

When a resident in Chamula steps out of line, however, local law enforcement is swift. Jail cells for men face to the outside so everyone sees who is in prison. Women, however, are held in private cells within the jail walls. Feeding the prisoner is left to the family or, sometimes, the benevolence of the spiritual leader. Most crime is petty thievery, but if an individual is jailed a third time, he or she is banished from the community. A serious crime, like murder, means the involvement of Mexican police.

In all other ways, the Mexican government has allowed the Chamulans to live according to their own terms and codes of conduct. Even the Zapatistas (a revolutionary leftist wing in Chiapas state) support this acceptance and seek similar rights for other indigenous peoples in their age-old struggle for recognition within the political framework of Mexico.

Tours of Chamula, Mexico, can be booked at any of the several travel agencies in the main square of San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas. Guides like Cesar try to explain everything in great detail so that visitors can understand how important it is to understand the locals.

For many western travellers in search of a destination completely unlike their homes, India looms large by virtue of its unspoiled beaches, ancient historical monuments, colourful and crazy urban living, majestic natural landscapes and, of course, its place in the history of Buddhism and Hinduism.

The Ghats of the River Ganges are perhaps the holiest spot in Varanasi or arguably even India. Thousands of pilgrims flock to Varanasi to bathe in Ganges with a belief that it will physically, mentally and spiritually cleanse them. There are around 100 riverside Ghats, most of which are associated with legends and mythologies, while some are even privately owned. Most are bathing Ghats, while others are used for cremations. Photo courtesy of Yogita Ranapaheli

Amidst so much, one especially distinctive city is ancient and spiritual Varanasi, also  known as Benares, located at the heart of this vast country’s Ganges Valley. Believed to have been founded by the Hindu deity Lord Shiva around 5,000 years ago (making it one of the oldest cities in the world), Varanasi is regarded as holy to Jains and Buddhists, and perhaps the most important pilgrimage site for Hindus, who visit it from all over the world.

While Varanasi is generously supplied with ancient Buddhist stupas, Hindu temples and many other things to see and do, it is perhaps most famously known as the place where legions of devotees gather and bathe in the holy River Ganges, the “river of India” believed by many Hindus to be the source of life. The amazing spectacle at any of the numerous Ghats (riverfront areas with steps leading down to the water) is not to be missed. Guided Varanasi tours are highly recommended as the maze of streets hides many treasures and the riverside ceremonies often require explanation.

Dasaswamedh Ghat is the most important Ghat (and one of the oldest) in Varanasi, India. This legendary Ghat has a beautiful river front view, but the main attraction is 'Aarti,' the evening prayer ceremony. Five young priests perform the choreographed ritual with lit lamps, incense and conch shells in perfect harmony. Children also sell floating butter lamps; the view of them, when lit and floating on the river, is stupendous. Photo courtesy of Yogita Ranapaheli

Varanasi is easily the cultural capital of India and home to many Indian scholars, philosophers, musicians and artisans. It is therefore no surprise that the city is a great place to shop for local trinkets and souvenirs, especially silk products. The quality of embroidery is among the best in Asia and the handmade local garments the perfect souvenir for loved ones back home.

Of course, travellers of all tastes should not fail to sample the city’s mouthwatering vegetarian cuisine, with tasty local specialities such as kachoris (fried pastry puffs stuffed with spicy lentils), puris (puffed wheat bread served with vegetables) and crispy samosas (triangle-shaped dumplings stuffed with curried potatoes and peas). Hungry visitors will find the best and most authentic Indian cuisine in the many Varanasi restaurants, some attached to the Varanasi hotels that cater to all budgets and are open to pilgrims and leisure travellers alike.

In Varanasi, India, Hindus dip themselves in the River Ganges, for it is believed that the waters wash away one's sins and purify the soul. At many Ghats, like this Assi Ghat, there are also different bathing times allotted to men and women. Photo courtesy of Yogita Ranapaheli

TraveltoVaranasi.com is the perfect gateway through which to experience this amazing city in north India, and to book Varanasi hotels and tours. Proudly managed by the hardworking team of Tathagata Journeys, the web portal lets travellers book first-rate hotels and tours that will provide the most authentic Varanasi adventure. In line with the philosophy of whl.travel, the website also features a number of responsible hotels and tours that ensure tourism goes hand in hand with the sustainable development of the community and the preservation of the local environment.

“Being the hub of culture and spirituality in India, Varanasi is a popular and beloved destination. We are therefore very fortunate to be a part of it and we look forward to facilitating travel in this destination. We aim to promote small accommodation providers in Varanasi and also some very experiential tours and activities,” dedicated Tathagata team member Yogita Ranapaheli shared. Tathagata Journeys is also the whl.travel local connection for Darjeeling and Sikkim.

TraveltoVaranasi.com is the latest whl.travel destination in India, following Agra, Chennai, Pune, Delhi, Goa, Hyderabad and Jaipur, in addition to Darjeeling and Sikkim.

As part of the festival, Hindus from the area prepare with an early morning bath. A brass container is then filled with water from a nearby stream and placed on the altar of their homes to be taken to the main temple of Darjeeling – Mahakal Baba Temple, which is deeply revered as the guardian of the place.

The temple itself sits in a commanding position overlooking the town of Darjeeling. Just a few hundred metres below it is an open area where the Banbo ceremony takes place. Jhakris perform a ritual dance to invoke the spirits of nature and to deliver a blessing on the area.

It’s a year-long wait for these Jhakris, who arrive to bid goodbye to the monsoon. On the final day of the event, holy men from every village gather together and dance chanting “shey shey la bonbo, shey shey la bonbo“.

Other important events in Darjeeling’s calendar include Losar - or Tibetan new year – which takes place in early March and Saga Dawa a major Buddhist festival that falls in mid-June. Being in Darjeeling during one of its many celebrations is fantastic way to see a vibrant new side to the place.

Wearing traditional headdresses and costumes, Pasola riders excite the crowds with cheers and stunts before facing their opponents on the field. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

The annual Pasola festival is a hallmark of culture on Sumba, one of the Lesser Sunda Islands of Indonesia. Wrapped in legend and of uncertain origin, it is a raucous event that attracts huge crowds of locals and visitors, all drawn to its curious combination of wild celebration and rigid ceremony pulled straight from ancient Indonesian lore.

Blunt Swords and Sharp Horsemanship

The term pasola is derived from the words pa, which means ‘game’, and sola or hola, meaning spear or stick. It actually refers to the equestrian competition that is the climax of the entire harvest Pasola celebration. For thrill-seekers and sports spectators, it is indeed the leading highlight of the festivities, a great confusion of ritual displays full of potent meaning.

In keeping with tradition, Pasola is only for men. Drama and suspense run high as the participants, once assembled, are divided into teams of two, usually determined by clan and region. The games then take place on a Pasola field surrounded by hordes of cheering and chiding onlookers. To begin with, two pairs of horsemen are positioned on opposite sides of the field. On cue, they charge toward each other at full speed, as if at a joust, exercising extreme riding skill on bareback horses and wielding blunt spears. Once the riders are near enough to each other, they propel their bladeless weapons at each other. The crowd watches, breathless.

Sometimes, the face-offs end in bloodshed. Riders fall from their horses and even a blunt sola may leave a wound. The spilt blood, however, is a powerful part of the tradition of this harvest festival. According to legend, drawing blood on Pasola is a necessary step in the cleansing and purification of the fields, thus ensuring a successful harvest for the year to come. Ironically, though, Pasola is about peacekeeping, not violence. The game is thought by some to have been invented as a sort of dispute settlement mechanism, a bellum pacificum or peaceful war through games. For example, it is prohibited to attack or aim a sola at a fallen rider.

The Legend of Pasola: Love Lost, Won and Negotiated

The historical facts surrounding the first celebrations of Pasola are foggy, but the narrative legend of its beginnings lives on in full colour. It is a tale full of variations on the themes of lost death, forbidden love, fraught reunions and a happy ending of settlement and celebration.

One version of the story tells of three brothers from the small village of Waiwuang. The oldest, named Umbu Dula, decides that the three of them must sail east in search of rice; however, they tell the village they will just be away for a few days on a fishing trip. Time passes and the villagers assume the brothers have died.

After the funerals and the passing of time, Rabu Kaba, Umbu Dula’s beautiful wife, falls in love with Teda Gaiparona, a man from nearby Kodi. Their love is prohibited by local Waiwuang custom, so the two elope in Kodi.

Meanwhile, to the amazement of everyone back in the village of Waiwuang, Umba Dula and his two brothers return from their voyage. When Umba Dula asks for his wife, the villagers report that she has been kidnapped by a man from Kodi. An angry mob heads out to rescue the beautiful Rabu Kaba.

To a chorus of roaring applause the Pascola riders thunder onto the playing field on bareback horses, dressed in their clan's costume and carrying blunt spears. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Umba Dula and his mob find the lovers at the foot of Mount Bodu Hula. Teda Gaiparona and Rabu Kaba cling to each other, unwilling to part. Umba Dula, who is a fair man and a keen negotiator, offers to accept their love, but he insists that Teda pay him the bride price that he paid to Rabu Kaba’s family.

All agree to this arrangement and a big wedding is celebrated in Kodi. The people of Waiwuang are saddened because they have lost the lovely Rabu Kaba, so to liven up their own harvest festival that year, the game of Pasola is invented, symbolising the rivalry between the two regions and the negotiation that kept things friendly between them.

Pasola in 2011

In 2011, the Pasola festival will be celebrated in Sumba beginning on February 24. The event then moves on to other parts of the island, reaching Lamboya, Wanokaka and Wainyapu on different dates.

After having attended four Pasola festivals, Ng Sebastian of Incito Tours, the whl.travel local connection in Komodo and the Lesser Sunda Islands, is pleased to offer a Pasola 2011 tour. He recommends that visitors come at least one day earlier to attend the Nyale ritual in the nearby village. This involves searching on the beach early in the morning of Pasola. A nyale is a sea worm that normally appears on the shore on Pasola day. The number of nyale collected is believed to be a sign of the richness of the farmers’ next harvest season.

At a zabíjačka in rural Czech Republic, a pig is led out to meet its maker. Witnessing its final moments requires a heart of steel and a cast-iron stomach.

A shrill yell in Czech incited one of the henchmen waiting by the door to seize the victim, tie a noose around his neck and bring him to the shed. A fierce struggle ensued, as the prisoner kicked, jumped, rolled over and tried anything to escape the group of murderous characters coming ever closer.

Soon the other henchmen and the executioner were upon the victim. They pinned it down with all of their weight and the leader coolly pulled out his rudimentary killing tool. As the bloody end drew near, the most nightmarish high-pitched squeal emerged, and repeated, again and again, like a siren. The weapon was placed over his temple and for just one moment before his death he and I met eyes. A second later blood was spurting from his neck into a yellow bucket held by one of the laughing young boys at the side of the corpse.

As the whole traumatic, unforgettable event had come to a climax, only one solitary thought arose in my mind: “I don’t think I’ll ever look at a pork chop quite the same way again.”

The Real Deal

I didn’t realise what I was getting myself into months earlier when I accepted my friend’s invitation to a “very special family event in the countryside.” Her devilish grin should have tipped me off, but instead it intrigued me.

I had an idea of what a traditional pig-killing feast, or zabíjačka, was as I had attended something like it in Bratislava the year before. But that was a very different affair; the pig was already dead when we arrived, so we simply cut the meat up and did fun stuff like make sausage, drink homemade slivovica (plum alcohol) and eat delicious food hot off the grill overseen by my friend, a famous chef at a fancy restaurant in town. I guess that was the “city-fied” version of what a real zabíjačka should be.

The event I attended in Czech Republic was certainly more traditional. I should have known what to expect when Katka told me the night before to bring a pair of shoes that I wouldn’t mind throwing out after our work was done. Unpleasant images raced through my mind at the sound of those instructions.

With celebratory beers, the author (middle left) and friends pose in front of their zabíjačka handiwork

On the day of the killing, I had more than a little anxiety. It didn’t help that Katka asked me whether I might faint due to the excessive bleeding. We drove about 90 minutes outside of Prague through what can only be described as seriously rural Czech Republic. Forests dominated the landscape, only to be interrupted by the occasional tiny farming village. Katka explained that this was one of the poorest regions in all of Czech Republic and that I could expect her relatives’ home to be less than glamorous. She said that they lived humbly, in a manner not so different from the way generations past had lived, and that they made a living from the manufacture of balkánský sýr (feta cheese) and honey.

Village Hospitality

I knew from past experience that people from villages such as these were typically the most welcoming, gracious, kind-hearted people you could hope to encounter, especially when meeting them as a guest in their home. And so it was. As we walked through the doors, we were met by the family, all smiles, seated around a table and ready with a bottle of Fernet herbal alcohol and a bottle of beer for each of us.

One sign on the table read “American guest” with an empty glass on top of it; another sign was written in Czech for all of us – “None shall pass without first paying the toll of one drink.” We all laughed together and paid our toll.

The property was decidedly humble, as Katka had described it. The dirt courtyard was strewn with rusted appliances and towering stacks of firewood; a flock of chickens ran around aimlessly.

Beyond the farm life and the state of the courtyard, what immediately caught my attention was a large, dangling pig sliced perfectly in half from head to belly, with its insides displayed like an anatomy exhibit. This had been the first slaughter of the day. Pools of blood mixed with dirt in certain areas to create dark reddish mud. Two of the younger men there were working in a large wooden shed, their arms and shirt speckled with blood. I took a large drink of my beer and tried to relax.

The author (bottom left) gets stuck into his new role as local butcher, scraping the hair from the freshly slaughtered pig at the zabíjačka

Not for the Faint-Hearted

The ‘event’ happened and it was undeniably traumatic. The squeal of the pig was so loud and horrible that it was nearly unbearable for more than a few seconds. In fact, for Katka and her five-year-old cousin, it was too much to take and they had to run inside to get away from it. But putting the animal to death itself was almost effortless. A pop to the head with an air-powered nail gun kills nearly instantaneously. After that, the men make a hole in the throat and drain the blood.

The killing was so simple for these guys that my paranoia got the better of me for a minute. The setting really was perfect for a horror movie: An impressionable American tourist gets invited to a feast deep in the Czech countryside only to realise that he is about to be the main course, hanging up next to the pigs. How well did I know Katka, anyway? Fortunately the sweet little grandmother walked up to me at this moment and offered me a huge piece of the most delicious rum cake I’ve ever had. That shifted my mind to a happier place.

Getting My Hands Dirty

At Katka’s urging, the men agreed to include me in on the carving process. The dead pig was lying on a handcart and being doused in boiling water. A tool was placed in my hand and I was instructed to start shaving the hair off of the pig. It came off in big chunks with simple strokes. I had lots of pictures taken of me doing my duty as part of this brutal event. How cool I’d look to all of my friends on Facebook. Only later, when telling my story, did my Slovak friend tell me that this is usually a job reserved for women. So much for my newly inflated sense of pride.

I won’t go into the details of slicing the pig open and separating the organs, but let’s just say that I never realised that bloody guts could be such a wonderful prop for comedy. The young guys there tossed the guts around and made funny faces while posing for pictures with vile strands of offal.

The event was an entirely unforgettable experience. If anyone has the opportunity to attend a zabíjačka they’ll leave with some nice memories and a decidedly greater appreciation for the meat they buy at the supermarket. At the cost of a pair of old shoes and a bit of nausea, I’d say it’s definitely worth it.

The tower is built when the first yam crop is ready for harvesting and takes about five weeks. A tall tree is found as the ‘foundation’ of the tower and hundreds of branches are tied in a scaffolding pattern to reach a height of between 20 and 30 metres. Each diver then selects his own vine. The thickness and length of the vine is of primary importance because if it is too long or stretches too much, the jump could be fatal. The diver must touch the earth with his shoulder in order for the jump to be successful and to ensure fertility for next year’s yam crop.

It is impossible to describe the ambiance as the women and children stomp the ground, dancing in rhythmic unison, encouraging the divers. You just have to be there! The sight of families as they may witness the final minutes of a father’s, husband’s or brother’s life before jumping sends shivers throughout the limited number of privileged spectators.

The Pentecost jump is 100% authentic and is unequalled in its threat to the lives of its participants. No other spectacle in the world matches the intensity felt by those who have witnessed it. A few divers have jumped to their deaths and others have been severely injured.

If you want to find something unique and off the beaten track, this is it. The jumps only occur between April and June each year following the monsoon season, ensuring that the jungle vines – which so many lives will depend on – have enough moisture in them to guarantee elasticity and will not break from the stress of the fall. A plunge takes sheer Stone Age courage or temporary madness, depending which way you want to look at it.

This photo is from a series of 50 shots taken on my last trip there (in 2009) using a Sony Cybershot DSC-F828 (fantastic workhorse camera). Every year I organise day trips to this event via private plane, with a stopover on Epi Island for lunch and a swim with the wild but docile resident dugong family (see our site for details).

Lake Kerkini is an artificial reservoir created in 1932

Lake Kerkini
Boasting rich biodiversity and rare fauna in the surrounding area, the Kerkini wetlands are just 75km from Thessaloniki Airport. The locus of several important migratory bird routes, the nature reserve of which it is the heart is considered Greece’s premier bird-watching site and one of the only places to observe the breeding of the endangered Dalmatian pelican. A traditional wooden boat tour with local fishermen is a great way to witness the diverse wildlife of the area. For birders, the best times to visit are spring and autumn, during the bird migrations.

Don't miss a tour on Lake Kerkini in a traditional wooden boat

Lake Kerkini is also a magnet for lovers of fresh seafood. One of the best places to go is a little restaurant on the Kerkini village square called Barba Charisis, run by its 75-year-old owner and his wife, who only speak Greek but welcome all to their tables. You will relish the excellent food, the choice of which you have no control; you eat what the owner serves you! Barba Charisis is open only on weekends .

The restaurant is located directly across from the Mansion of Kerkini, a family-owned accommodation fully restored to its 1918 glory. Ask the owner about the various environmental excursions around the area, such as trekking, horseback riding, mountain biking or perhaps even a visit to a buffalo farm. Yes, that’s right, a buffalo farm! Legend has it that these Asian buffaloes have been in the area since ancient times, when they were used in the army of the 5th-century BC Persian King Xerxes during a campaign in Greece. You can visit the buffalo farm and other hidden charms only known by locals on an exciting Off-road 4×4 Tour.

Could the forebears of this buffalo have been part of an ancient army?

Kerkini in spring is also a great place to witness the tradition of Anastenaria, a traditional Greek custom of walking or dancing barefoot on flaming coals. The ceremony starts on the 20th of May, with a frantic dance to the music of drums and hymns. On the second day, an animal is sacrificed and the meat offered to the village families. In the evening the dance starts again, together with eating and drinking. Firewalking is the evening finale , when some participants, in a faith-induced ecstasy, dance on the fire holding an icon or a Bible.

Anastenaria participants come from all walks of life

Naousa Wines
Legend has it that Naousa is the birthplace of the god Dionysus. Even today Naousa is a city of wine and vineyards, with 14 wineries in the surrounding region. Whether you visit the small and traditional family Dalamara Winery or try some of the extensive collection of old vintages at Boutari Winery, the ‘black’ wine of Naousa is an excellent complement to red meats, spicy dishes and the delicious meatballs of Naoussa, called boubaria.

Gathering grapes for a tradition wine press is a fun collective activity

Naousa is just one hour from Thessaloniki. Take the Egnatia Odos road to 20km beyond Veria. Only 2km from the town centre is a local fruit farm owned by Dimitris and Rena, where you can stay at their Esperides Hotel & Spa. Here you can help pick fruit and then prepare (and eat!) the local cuisine, while of course also indulging in the local wine.

For more information about Thessaloniki and its surrounding region, including accommodations, tours, activities, all your travel needs and lots of insider tips, contact your local whl.travel connection: Athanasios Paparnakis and the team from Odyssey Tours at www.travel-thessaloniki.gr.