The afternoon hours shed a flattering light on Sarajevo's Miljacka canal in the historical quarters, all surrounded by modern high-reaching towers. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

This month, whl.travel local partner Dzenita Delibasic of Green Visions delivers the scoop on Sarajevo, capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Sarajevo never fails to capture the imagination. Whether it fascinates with its rich history of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences, intrigues curious minds with sights like the Latin Bridge where Franz Ferdinand’s assassination triggered World War I, or charms with its towering green surrounding mountains, unquenchable cafe culture and friendly hospitality, Sarajevo is a place that exceeds expectations.

These handcrafted beaded slippers are a colourful Sarajevo specialty item that visitors love to bring home as a cosy memento. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Day Trips

On your city tour of Sarajevo you’re brought to the city’s beating heart, the Old Town’s main square – Baščaršija – which has for a long time been the most happening place in town. All around it are old houses and cobblestone streets filled with numerous tiny shops where you can pick up the perfect gift for loved ones back at home.

In the nearby surrounding area, you will be captivated by the Old Town Hall (National Library), built in 1896 on the banks of the Miljacka River just across the street from Inat Kuca (Spite House), a well-known restaurant. Within just a few hundred metres of there is a wide range of historic sites such as Brusa Bezistan (a former trading centre that is now the Sarajevo City Museum), the Orthodox Church (1539), the Synagogue (1581), the Roman Catholic Cathedral (1889) and Gazi Husrev-beg’s Mosque (1531), to name just a few. If you wish to see how people lived in the time of the Ottomans, there is the Svrzina House, a Turkish-style house of well-known Muslim families.

Part of Sarajevo's beauty is its relative proximity to rural mountain villages like Lukomir, where old Bosnian ways of life are still preserved today. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Once you get your fill of the busy city centres and wish to escape into the mountains, we recommend a trip that combines both culture and nature. A day trip to Lukomir – at 1,469 metres above sea level it’s Bosnia’s highest village – combines a glimpse of life in the mountains with a visit to the local ancient stecci (medieval tombstones). Lukomir villagers still adhere to the ‘old way’ of doing things, including wearing traditional dress and the occasional turban or fez. This is the perfect place to understand a bit more about the realities of living in a Bosnian mountain village cut off from the outside world during the winter months.

A more active outdoor alternative is to join us on one of our snowshoeing trips which, thanks to the masses of deep, powdery snow that falls on the surrounding mountains, are becoming more and more popular in this part of the world. Nothing compares to the tranquillity of snowshoe walks far away from the crowds through pristine and snow-covered fairytale forests and mountain peaks.

Sarajevo is a great jumping-off point for winter sports such as snowshoeing, which is gaining popularity in the region. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Shopping

The perfect place to start shopping in Sarajevo is in the centre of the old town Baščaršija. On Kazandziluk Street, for example, old coppersmiths work at making fantastic coffee and tea sets. Other artisans produce handmade shoes and slippers, Bosnian and Persian carpets and high-quality gold jewellery.

Modern stores are in the shopping centres like BBI on Titova Street and Alta on Marijin Dvor. Fresh and organic fruit and vegetables can be bought at the Markale Market close to the Eternal Flame War Memorial.

And when that’s all done, it’s always time for a coffee in one of many cafés, where you experience the laid-back atmosphere typical of Bosnian coffee culture.

Coppersmith Street is one of the characteristic pedestrian arteries of Sarajevo's Old Town. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Restaurants

If you desire a beautiful view with affordable tasty traditional Bosnian food, go to Kod Bibana restaurant.

Vegetarians and seafood lovers will enjoy Karuzzo, a small but comfy place next to the Markale Market. Inat Kuca, mentioned above, offers a great variety of local food in an authentic Bosnian atmosphere.

For a refreshing pint of good beer on a hot summer night, head to the Pivnica (Brewery) restaurant near the Franciscan Church on the left side of the Miljacka River. Its got excellent food and is the only Bosnian brewery that produces dark beer. Eager to try local and international wines instead? Visit Noovi Wine Bar situated on a small hill above Djece Sarajeva Park on Tina Ujevica Street. Do not forget to order their mind-blowing mali kolaci (small chocolate cookies).

Sarajevo's Markale Market is popular with locals filling their baskets with fresh produce for their families. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Local treats

Cevapi, small and tasty sausages served with pita bread and onions, are ubiquitous, but best in the many cevabdzinica shops in Sarajevo, two of the most famous of which are Zeljo and Petica, both in the old town.

Another traditional treat is burek, baked pastry filled with meat that can be bought in a buregdzinica. After this filling snack, treat yourself to a hurmasica, a date-shaped pastry soaked in a very sweet syrup sauce, or tufahija, stewed apples with a walnut filling.

Night Out

As soon as the Sarajevo weather warms up, the entire length of Strosmajerova Street is crowded with the tables and chairs of its flanking coffee bars. From there, depending on your desire, you can choose between a cosy little Mediterranean restaurant like Barhana, at number 8 Djulagina Cikma Street, and staying late at the popular Cafe Opera, which is a kind of a mini-club with lots of local events like live music, DJ performances and thematic evenings.

Strosmajerova Street in the Old Town of Sarajevo is the hub of the city's chill cafe culture by day and vibrant nightlife after dark. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Lovers of ethnic cuisine, cocktails and wine will be among good company in Hacienda. This Mexican cantina is not only a lounge bar and restaurant, but also one of the best clubs in Sarajevo. Elsewhere, you can dance through the night in Sarajevo’s Basement disco or spend a relaxing evening with a cup of unbelievably delicious hot chocolate in the Cafe Zlatna Ribica (goldfish). This small bar is in the immediate vicinity of the Eternal Flame and its fin-de-siècle interior is decorated with sewing machines and other paraphernalia.

Whether it is summer or winter there is always some Sarajevo cultural event you can attend, like the Sarajevo Film Festival, the music of Baščaršija Nights, the arts-oriented Sarajevo Winter Festival and the MESS Sarajevo International Theatre Festival.

Llama Caravans in Argentina

Stretch your legs by trekking with llamas in the Jujuy Province of Northern Argentina. No, you don’t actually ride these long-necked beasts of burden; you trek alongside them in the traditional style of the ancient Andeans. Guided by Santos Manfredi and his wife Eva, you discover the rugged beauty of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a narrow mountain valley bordered by the Altiplano of the Andes. On the way, you stop for a picnic accompanied by delicious local wine; an optional overnight stay with a local family provides a chance to engage with the people of the village and learn about their way of life. At every step, the views are spectacular and an opportunity to experience a place that is inaccessible by car. You should be wary of one pesky issue, however: the llamas are prone to spitting!

Give a Little on a Tour in Vietnam

Responsible travel in its truest form, Bloom Microventures in Hanoi, Vietnam, allows you to really get off the beaten track and interact with local community members who who have benefited from microfinance loans from the Microfinance and Community Development Institute (MACDI). You are driven out to a remote rural community where you spend the day with the locals – hear their stories and participate in daily activities like preparing lunch or harvesting crops. In the afternoon, you are encouraged to borrow a bicycle and explore the village, meet the local people and savour the countryside of northern Vietnam.

Yakkity Yak in the Himalayas

After a very bumpy and long bus journey to the north of bustling Kathmandu, Nepal, and a further four days of trekking along a yak trail through misty valleys, you arrive at Kyanjin Gompa, a tiny village in the remote Himalayan foothills. This village is home to mostly Tibetans who, while they live in Nepal, still follow ancient Tibetan traditions and customs. The views are incredible as this is the end of the ‘road,’ if there were roads… but what also makes this village different is the tiny cheese factory where two locals make delicious yak cheese as good as if transported from the slopes of the Pyrenees Mountains in Europe. It doesn’t get much more local than this and there is also a monastery that you can explore!

Smile for a Week at Crocodile Creek

Watch out for the elephants as you drive along the dusty road to the Crocodile Creek Community Village, an accommodation and community project in Livingstone, Zambia. The village was built by and for the people, and provides a sustainable income for local families involved in assisting guests. Located on the banks of the Zambezi River, four bungalows welcome visitors interested in the world-famous Victoria Falls, located just downstream, as well as the social development of the local people. Crocodile Creek is a prime example of how things should be done, with all materials used in building the village found in or around the area. Even the the camp-style bathrooms – a product of local innovation – are built into the natural surroundings. All food is prepared using vegetables from the on-site garden, as long as the elephants haven’t eaten them first! Stay for a few days – or a few weeks! – to lend a hand in in adjoining village.

Nugal-warra Elder Willie Gordon shows his guests around on his Rainbow Serpent Tour. Photo courtesy of Guurrbi Tours

Aboriginal Cave Paintings Rock!

Discover one of the oldest cultures in the world in tropical North Queensland, Australia, on a walk with a Nugal-warra elder, Willie Gordan. Willie started his company, Guurrbi Tours, in 2003, and the his tours are already listed as one of Australia’s must-do experiences.

Just outside of Cooktown, you walk to rock art sites where Aboriginal people recorded stories that have been passed down to Willie, who gives insight into the life and spirituality of his people. Learn about the traditional Aboriginal way of life whilst devouring delicious ‘bush tucker‘ (native food) and learning about bush medicine and ancient survival methods. With an infectious laugh and admirable passion, Willie is unforgettable.

Hikers take in the stunning view Krvavac peak near Lukomir village in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Photo courtesy of Green Visions

Real Local Culture in the Mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina

High in the mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the village of Lukomir lies far removed from the rapidly developing city of Sarajevo, just a few hours away. The people of Lukomir – the Bjelašnica highlanders – maintain a very traditional way of life, and you are invited to experience it with Green Visions.

This responsible travel company delivers the very best local travel experiences in Bosnia and Herzegovina and is committed to several projects that encourage the sustainable development of tourism in the region. The area around Lukomir is ideal if you’re after real travel adventures and traditional villages, not to mention old water mills, stunning views and high mountain terrain. Visit Bosnia and Herzegovina and travel like a local!

Reachable on snowshoes outside Sarajevo, capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Skakavac Waterfall is found frozen at high noon on Christmas. Photo courtesy of Dzenita Delibasic

The city of Sarajevo, capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, lies in a valley surrounded by hills and mountains, which makes it the perfect location for winter activities. In fact, because of the fantastic winter sport opportunities on the surrounding mountains of Bjelašnica and Jahorina, Sarajevo was chosen to host the XIV Winter Olympic Games in 1984.

Fortunately, there is ample winter fun for non-skiers as much as skiers. For example, thanks to the deep masses of powdery snow on the hills around Sarajevo, snowshoeing is an excellent alternative to the mogul fields and becoming more and more popular in this part of the world.

In response to that, outdoor adventure tour operators like Green Visions, the whl.travel local connection in Sarajevo, offers trips and activities throughout the year, including options that peek into Sarajevo’s magical winter world. For the past 10 years, Green Visions has been developing year-round tourism that taps into the beauty of a frozen wonderland in close proximity to the city. Trips begin in a village just outside town, yet the trails lead to places so deeply natural and buried in white that they feel like they’re part of a different universe.

The Renowned Skakavac Waterfall

One of the most memorable hidden places in winter is Skakavac Waterfall. Skakavac is the Bosnian word for ‘grasshopper’ and the beautiful waterfall it denotes is a staggering 98 metres high, making it the largest continually flowing chute in the country. As such it is listed as a Monument of Nature and afforded special protections. Besides being very attractive in the summer, though, it takes on a new personality during winter months when it is almost completely frozen.

Skakavac is located north of the Sarajevo city centre. Green Visions has mastered the route and perfected a day trip, called the Grasshopper Waterfall Snow Adventure tour, mostly because we love getting out there so much ourselves.

Sandra shows the scale of the giant icicles of Skakavac Waterfall outside of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Photo courtesy of Dzenita Delibasic

In summer, the three-hour hike of easy walking is accessible to just about anyone. The trek begins in Nahorevo, a village right at the trail head, just beyond which you are immediately embraced by the beautiful slopes of Bukovik Mountain. In extreme winter conditions, however, the story is a little bit different. Because the waterfall is located on the far (northern) side of the mountain, low temperatures virtually guarantee lots of snow from the end of December until the end of March. Without proper equipment, reaching the waterfall is almost impossible. That’s where the snowshoes come in; they are they perfect way to reach the waterfall and enjoy the sublime scenery.

A Christmas Adventure to Remember

On 25th December 2010, the Green Visions team organised a special snowshoe Christmas hike to this enchanting place. On this particular morning, the sun was shining brightly in a crystal-clear sky and the air was a sharp cold. It was the perfect weather for snowshoeing. We really enjoyed the winter sun as the snow grated beneath our feet for the almost four strenuous hours it took us to reach our destination.

Waiting for us there was a fantastic view of water, mist and ice, transformed into fabulous frozen waterfall. We first arrived at the top and took a couple of photos of the vista. After a short lunch break and a soak in the sun, we decided to follow a narrow to the bottom.

Once below, we admired the waterfall in all its beauty, a natural ice sculpture reaching upward, touching the skies high above. We also realised that the icicles were more than five metres long! It was definitely a scene to remember.

The extreme cold discouraged us from staying any longer. Since noon had already passed, it was time to head home where warmth awaited. We all took one last look at Skakavac and said goodbye to it, promising that we would return soon, definitely before spring.

The trip back to Sarajevo led into the mist of the valley against a beautiful mountain backdrop. Photo courtesy of Dzenita Delibasic

Local Amazement

Walking back we observed the spectacle of the whole city of Sarajevo covered in mist. Only the Hum communication tower seemed to float above it all against the backdrop of the Treskavica and Bjelašnica mountains, both completely white and beckoning to us like beautiful ladies in their amazing gowns. That will have to be another adventure for another day.

On the way home we stopped in a local village to warm up in a tiny hut owned by Dragan. A lively character and impeccable host, he offered us his best rakija (plum brandy). After he found out where we’d been, he was more than surprised, saying that nobody had passed this way in more than two weeks. It was just too cold this time of year. As we thawed in the warmth of his home, the astonishment in his comments made us swell with pride.

Contact your whl.travel local connection in Sarajevo for more about Skakavac Waterfall and the Grasshopper Waterfall Showshoeing Hike or exploring other fun snowshoeing options, not to mention accommodation, other tours and local hints about the city.

I stand for a minute under some old gracious lime trees with their sweet smells and know that I am home in Sarajevo. With one simple scan my eye catches the blacksmiths, leathersmiths and goldsmiths carrying on the special, yet dying, skills of their forefathers.

In the evening, after a long day, I enjoy the warm gusts of wind that drive me home along the Miljacka river. I feel a shift in people’s energy. Our day is ending. Some of us rush home to be with our families, while others enjoy cooling down in the many small neighbourhood streets, cafés and on the numerous benches alongside the river.

I climb up again to the old fortified walls of Sarajevo and turn around for one last glance at the city before returning to my little green oasis on the Mošćanica river. The sun is setting and the fire in the sky illuminates the city and surrounding mountains. I now realise that during my daily walks I continuously rediscover Sarajevo, over and over again. It is a place full of surprises. A place to sooth your senses. A place to discover even if you have lived here all your life.

As many of you know, Bosnia and Herzegovina is a small and mountainous country, with a majestic melange of climates, mountain ranges, rivers and unique towns and villages. It is Green Visions‘ wish to open up our home to all those interested in understanding how time, nature and sometimes tumultuous events shaped these lands. We look forward to showing you our sacred garden, which we call Bosnia and Herzegovina.

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Situated in the southeastern Europe, the Balkans is fast becoming one of the most popular destinations for intrepid travellers. It’s a region of incredible untouched nature, delectable cuisines, rich historical lands begging for exploration and understanding, cool ocean breezes across golden sandy beaches, awe-inspiring mountain peaks dotted with centuries-old villages and genuinely friendly and smiling locals. The Balkans is also now quite a safe place to travel, so there’s no excuse not to visit this wonderful part of the world.

The Stari Most (Old Bridge) of Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina, spans the Neretva River. Originally built during the Ottoman era, it was destroyed during the Bosnian-Herzegovian War and then rebuilt according to the old design and using as much of the recovered original stone as possible. The bridge and surrounding historic neighbourhoods are now a World Heritage Site.

Bringing new Balkan travel experiences to visitors in the region has been one driving mission of the International Finance Corporation Advisory Services in Europe and Central Asia (IFC is a member of the World Bank Group), along with the WHL Group and local stakeholders. Working together since 2008 to develop tourism market readiness and infrastructure, these partners have, through a Balkan Hotel Market Access Program, succeeded in improving access to the region for independent travellers who prefer to book and pay for services online.

The project targeted eight destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and Albania for which Web-based travel portals were developed. In each destination, a local operator was carefully selected to own and operate the website, with follow-up support in technical development and web marketing provided by whl.travel (part of the WHL Group). It was not all about building websites though; the hard work fell to the local stakeholders, who worked directly with small accommodation owners unfamiliar with new technologies and therefore more reliant on traditional marketing. Despite the obstacles, Sarajevo and Medjugorje in Bosnia and Herzegovina; the Bay of Kotor, Budva and Podgorica in Montenegro; and Tirana and Shkoder and the Albanian Alps in Albania are now directly connected to the global e-marketplace.

A screen shot of the Tirana, Albania, website

After just one year of operation, the Web portals made possible by the Balkan Hotel Market Access Program had already generated over €105,000 for small accommodation and tour operators in the region. With over 150,000 unique visitors and some 620,000 page visits, the project had far exceeded expectations. The ongoing impact of the project is now also expected to be significant, having spurred commercial development in new destinations across Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Macedonia and further destinations in Albania.

“We managed to achieve all program objectives and the project has been recognized by the IFC management as successful and efficient with significant impact on regional tourism development,” praised Denis Mesihovic, IFC Program Coordinator. “The fact that the program revenue for the first year of the operations was three times higher that the program budget and expenses speaks for itself.”

This is no time to rest on one’s laurels though. “While giant strides have been made with the development of the region’s first online e-commerce enabled booking portals, there is still quite a bit of work that can be done at the product level,” said Zachary Rozga, CEO of WHL Consulting (also a WHL Group company), the entity that managed the project for IFC. “As with many new and emerging tourism destinations, targeted assistance needs to be delivered to the individual hotels, B&Bs and guesthouses on issues like pricing and commissions, digital content development and e-commerce distribution.”