This beautiful section of the Italian Riviera is known for its eponymous Cinque Terre or ‘Five Lands’ – five picturesque villages and the surrounding carefully-terraced farmland that have been insulated from outside influences for generations. This spectacular territory was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, but tourism has proven to be something of a poisoned chalice. The sudden inflow of visitors has placed major strain on the area’s infrastructure and the desire to capitalise has seen tension between developers and local residents grow.

It was the problems that these growing pains posed for the region that the Vendemmia documentary team set out to document when filming began in 2008. Then, unexpectedly, after the team wrapped up their filming in late 2010, a sudden series of events struck the area.

A scandal broke, revealing evidence of widespread political corruption, compounding the problems already facing Cinque Terre. Land deals and development projects that posed a threat to the area’s outstanding natural beauty and traditional ways of life were under way.

Local residents, already facing the challenge of coping with a booming tourist industry that threatened to destroy their livelihoods, were outraged at the extent to which the land which they called home was being exploited.

Further disaster came in the form of severe rainfall in October 2011. The extreme weather caused widespread flooding and mudslides, resulting in several deaths and major damage to two of Cinque Terre’s villages, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare.

Knowing that they could not let these new problems go undocumented and compelled by their love of the region and its people, Weller and Boeckle realised that they would have to revisit major sections of their film if it was to achieve its objective of bringing awareness and support to Cinque Terre.

In order to finance the project, the team at Harvest Films Productions have opted to use kickstarter.com to raise the necessary funds. With nine days still to run, the project has already secured its ‘bare-bones’ funding package of $2,600, but additional support will contribute greatly to their ability to deliver an excellent and effective product.

We wish Weller, Boeckle and their team all the best for the project and join them in spreading the message about the importance of sustainability in tourism. The situation in Cinque Terre could apply to any number of other destinations.

Let’s not destroy what we’re trying to love.

Volunteering abroad, also known as voluntourism, is on fire. More and more, all kinds of people are looking for travel experiences where they can serve the under-served, globally. Who can disagree with such noble intentions? In fact, voluntourism is often hailed as one of the most constructive forms of tourism out there.

Voluntourism Economics

Like anything new and fast-growing, voluntourism can go awry. Opportunistic travel companies commercialize what should be kept in the non-profit sector, charging voluntourists a hefty premium. NGOs use voluntourists as a fundraising mechanism, taking more advantage of their willingness to pay than their willingness to work. As voluntourism gains scale in certain destinations, it can even affect local labor markets in ways the voluntourists never imagine. Rightly so, skeptics have started blowing whistles and calling for best practices.

Two Sustainable Bolivia volunteers paint a flagpole at Atendi. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

The economics of voluntourism is a hot issue in the larger debate about voluntourism’s impacts. Where are voluntourist dollars going? How much stays with the coordinating organization, and how much enters the local economy in a meaningful way? If you’re thinking about volunteer travel, these are the kinds of questions that are worth asking. If you’re an organization that is coordinating volunteer tourists, these are the kind of questions that are important to answer. Transparency is key.

Volunteering with Sustainable Bolivia in Cochabamba

Sustainable Bolivia is a registered non-profit organization in Cochabamba, Bolivia’s third-largest city. Here, it partners with 28 local non-profit organizations to coordinate volunteer and internship opportunities for international students and professionals. The organizations span a number of fields of development: public health, the environment, education, human rights, and social services.

Volunteers choose which organization they would like to get involved with, depending on their experiences, educational background, and interests. With its diverse network of local non-profit organizations, Sustainable Bolivia is in a good position to match volunteer skills and resources with the places in and around Cochabamba that could use them the most.

Engineers who want to work on appropriate technology solutions find a good match with Energetica, which works on alternative energy sources in the rural communities of Bolivia. Doctors and health care professionals have a number of choices for applying their skills, like Atendi where they can work with kids with disabilities, or Centro de Salud Cerro Verde if their interest is in reproductive health. For creative types and performers, Sustainable Bolivia has an artist residency program and a partner organizations like Performing Life, which provides underprivileged youth with workshops to develop juggling and other circus show skills.

Screen shot of mini grant reporting on the Sustainable Bolivia website.

The Mini Grant Program at Sustainable Bolivia

In 2009, the administration of Sustainable Bolivia started thinking about how they could make volunteer impacts more transparent. They realized that volunteers were the ones who were working directly in the field, in close contact with local partner organizations. The volunteers could see firsthand the most pressing needs on site at their projects.

In February of that year, the innovative new mini grant system was introduced. It’s a system where volunteers can decide exactly how their money is used in the community, and Sustainable Bolivia has one more way to measure and report contribution its to parter organizations. How does it work? For each month that a volunteer works with Sustainable Bolivia, $75 goes toward a mini grant. So, a volunteer that stays for three months has $225 to use toward their volunteer project in the way they think is most appropriate.

In order to apply their mini grants, volunteers are required to fill out an application explaining their project plans and budget. Then, once it has been approved, the volunteer is also required to submit receipts. This process allows for an organization-level reporting system on how volunteer money is being spent.

In keeping with the transparency that Sustainable Bolivia values, it publishes all mini grant activity on its website. On this fascinating page, viewers can see what each volunteer has done with each local partner organization. You can see a short description of the project, the application form, and the receipts showing where the money was spent. More than an ingenious system that ensures transparency about volunteer funds, it’s an elegant composite portrait of the kinds of activities that volunteers can do at Sustainable Bolivia and what the organization is about.

Blogging and Hula Hoops

I applied to spend time at Sustainable Bolivia through their artist residency program, asking if online content creation counts as a form of art. They were happy to accept me as their resident writer. Once I arrived, I had a meeting with Michelle, the national director, about the best way to use my volunteer time. Their website blog had become a little neglected, she said. I loved the idea of helping bring it back to life. By the end of my three month stay, I had five new posts published on the blog.

Hula Hooping with Performing Life members in Cochabamba, Bolivia. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society/Cynthia Ord.

As my time there passed, I was looking for ways to apply my own mini grant funding. The mini grant program inspired me to close my laptop and get involved on the ground level. My first week there, I had seen a show put on by Performing Life, amazed by the talent of its kids in juggling, diabalos, and unicycles. Since I’m a circus hobbyist myself, I was especially impressed by 13-year-old Scarlet and her fire poi spinning skills. I wanted to learn from her. I noticed that the organization could use some hula hoops to make its circus equipment more complete, and I started planning a project for my mini grant resources.

With my mini grant money, I went to the massive La Cancha local market and bought everything needed to make high-quality, performance-level hula hoops. I found PVC tubing, connectors, duct tape, electrical tape, and even some shiny decorative tape to finish the hoops with color and flair. My mini grant funding went a long way in Bolivia. By the end of my time there, I had made 15 new hula hoops, which were a big hit with the Performance Life kids.

All the materials for hula hoop construction had only cost about $75. There was still more mini grant funding left. I wanted to donate it directly to Performing Life, but Michelle explained to me that it rolls over to the next volunteer working with Performing Life. In this way, they can keep things totally transparent and visible about how the funding is spent. It gave me another idea – maybe I’ll go back and be that next volunteer myself.

To apply for an internship or volunteer opportunity at Sustainable Bolivia, get in contact through the Sustainable Bolivia website.

The Mantazah Palace was originally built in 1892 and served as a summer residence for members of the Egyptian royalty. Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea in Alexandria, Egypt, it is surrounded on three sides by great walls and gardens. Photo courtesy of Senor Gogo

Over the centuries, Alexandria has ballooned in both size and importance, especially as a commercial centre of Egypt. Today it is an vital economic base that supports a flourishing tourism industry.

Alexandria hotels, of which there are many choices, promise great opportunities for relaxation, especially in light of the many summer resorts and sandy beaches. Fortunately, many of the best also combine five-star luxury with ecologically and socially responsible tourism. A stay at the Four Seasons Hotel in Alexandria, for example, will have you eating organic vegetables and fruits, many of which are locally grown in the hotel’s prided green spaces. Similarly a holiday at the Hilton Green Plaza Hotel, where all of the staff are Alexandria locals, will inspire you to participate in local sustainability by keeping the stunning beaches of Alexandria clean.

Recognised as the site of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Qaitbey Citadel was built by El Sultan al Ashrad Qaitbey in 1480. Perched on Pharos Island, just off the Alexandria mainland, the site was originally occupied by a lighthouse. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Shabayek

There are plenty of things to see and do in Alexandria, including taking in the ancient Roman architecture and the Qaitbey Fortress, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, that has occupied Pharos Island since 1480. Of course, no holiday in Alexandria would be complete without a tour to the iconic Pyramids of Giza, which are easily accessible from the Alexandria port.

One great way to experience the depth of Alexandria’s 18-century history is with a full-day Alexandria tour that takes in highlights like the Roman ruins, the Alexandria Library and the Mantazah Palace. For a more contemporary look at Alexandria, a tour to Alamein, the site of the famous World War II battle, is a must.

The Corniche is a coastal highway in Alexandria, Egypt, linking the Citadel of Qaitbey with the Mantazah Palace. Constructed in 1870, the Corniche runs for 10 miles and offers great views of the Mediterranean Sea. Photo courtesy of Yassin Zahran

Tourism expert and owner of WHL Egypt, Sherif Abd Elwahab is thrilled that his team of Alexandria locals is now available to assist in planning a fun and responsible Alexandria holiday.

“We at WHL Egypt are committed to promoting sustainable tourism and to using the tourism industry as a vehicle for protecting Egypt’s great historical sites,” said Elwahab. “We prefer to partner with Alexandria hotels that take responsible actions toward the community and develop environmental consciousness, using the least amount of non-renewable resources as possible.”

The Old Town Alexandria, Egypt, is filled with markets and vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, nuts, herbs and spices. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Heather Cowper

Alexandria joins the growing list of whl.travel destinations in Egypt, including Cairo, Sharm el Sheikh, Aswan and Luxor, Safaga, Ein Sokhna and Port Said.

My name is Markus Neuer and I lead the Tiger Trail team in Luang Prabang, Laos. Born in Germany, I always had a passion for adventure and travelling but, even more important, for other people. Through our Fair Trek in Laos projects, I have found a way to perfectly combine community work with tourism and bring people together from all over the world to work with Lao communities.

The views are spectacular on a half-day Tiger Trail mountain trek in Nong Khiaw, in the Luang Prabang province of northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Our team is international, yet all working and living in Luang Prabang. A big part of our company is regular interns, volunteers and students giving support. Our team members are currently from the US, Thailand, France, Germany and of course Laos. Tiger Trail was founded in 2000. I took over the company in 2008, and with the help of our incredible team it has become what it is today. We currently employ about 50 full-time staff members.

My Inspiration, Our Inspiration

I believe that the world is not fairly developed and even its most beautiful landscapes can be the stage for poverty and degradation. I aim to approach these problems by seeking a better way. We make an impact through an ongoing effort to care for the community and our environment, while enjoying the beauty and diversity of the world itself. If everybody would do this, we could have a better world, not just better adventures.

Tourists work alongside villagers harvesting rice near Huay Fai village (about 20 kilometres from Luang Prabang), Laos, during one of the Fair Trek tours offered by Tiger Trail. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Fair Trek Is a Key Part of Our Adventure Travel Company

Fair Trek in Laos is an innovative community-based-tourism project aiming to assist in the development of communities in need. In return, it allows visitors to have access to remote villages by trekking, biking and kayaking, to learn and absorb different cultural experiences in Laos. Fair Trek is the first responsible-tourism project in Luang Prabang, and has been recognised widely as an example of community-based responsible tourism in the Mekong sub-region.

Fair Trek Was First Founded in 2007

I initiated Fair Trek in cooperation with local nongovernmental organisations and the government. It resulted from striking and obvious needs that I have experienced myself during normal treks through surrounding communities and in other countries. After the initiative had been started up, reviewed and adjusted, the operation of the Fair Trek project in Luang Prabang was transferred and is now partly run locally by the Provincial Tourism Department and a pool of operators, raising awareness toward development of tourism and community alike.

After years of development, Tiger Trail has continued to spread the Fair Trek initiative out to other areas of northern Laos, Nong Khiaw and Muang. Tiger Trail is also adopting the philosophy of “voluntourism” for an ecological school project, The Clay School Project, benefiting both the Fair Trek communities and volunteers.

Each tour that is within the Fair Trek project pays into a community fund! Depending on the setup, the funds are handled by local government institutions or the communities directly. The village funds are raised from each Fair Trek tour allowing each visitor to have an impact. Villagers are able to submit a request for needed financing, or propose their ideas on how to invest in improvements and development that benefits the whole community. A great side effect has been created through visitors who wish to assist more through donations. Through this the communities can achieve additional support through the awareness that Fair Trek provides to them.

The Villagers Also Benefit Directly

The villagers make an income selling food and accommodation, as well as traditional self-made handicrafts to the visitors. Individual villagers can earn from guiding around the communities and from helping out in tourism activities. Rental fees for land, blankets, cooking material and other assisting services also contribute to the local income. Our tours are not only “fair” in terms of money; they also preserve local culture and traditions. Having visitors gives the villagers an opportunity to spread and preserve their traditional performances and practices such as singing, dancing and playing local music.

Insider Tip

If you are coming our direction, give us a visit. Luang Prabang is a provincial capital city of Laos, where time still seems to stand still. Take a waterfall trek at Kuang Si and hang out on the Mekong to enjoy the stunning view. Also I recommend you visit Big Tree Café for a great photography exhibition and enjoy some locally grown coffee at either JoMa or Saffron Café, both engaged in social projects in the region. (Get more of the inside word on Luang Prabang.)

Volunteers work with locals to construct the foundation, columns and roof of the Clay School in Ban Naluang, near Nong Khiaw, in northern Laos. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

Attractions in and around Luang Prabang are diverse, including various waterfalls, caves, ethnic minorities, textiles and handicrafts, elephant rides and mahout elephant-care experiences. As part of the UNESCO World Heritage reconstruction plan, new buildings have been limited and old houses and streets received refurbishment to keep Luang Prabang a magical place. The most practical way to explore the city is by bike or on a walk. It’s really that small! On our various tours, selected sights and highlights can be combined on day trips and offer individual experiences with experienced and friendly guides.

For a short note on local weather: dry season lasts generally from October through April and wet season comes from the beginning of May to September. BUT I personally love and recommend the rainy season with its lush tropical green and powerful rain showers – it’s spectacular. Yearly average temperature is around 28°C, but it can fall to 15°C or 10°C during the cold season and even lower in the mountains.

The village ("ban") of Naluang, northern Laos, set amidst a stunning backdrop of karst mountains and lush jungle. Photo courtesy of Tiger Trail

View from Office Window

Well, there’s not much to see but at least we see most of the visitors as they fly into Luang Prabang airport, just about 300 metres from our office. We also have a decent view of a metal shop and a cement work space on the opposite side of the road.

Thanks to Markus for sending this through to us! If you’re interested in experiencing one of their fantastic trips, why not try Trekking in the Jungle or Living as a “Mahout” on an elephant sanctuary. Opportunities also exist for those interested in Volunteering in a Traditional Akha Village or Helping to Build a Clay School for a Small Village in Laos.

Co-management of protected areas by both the state and local communities is one of the best ways to guarantee that tourism will provide economic and social benefits to many people who would otherwise be marginalized, at the same time that it ensures protection for the environment on which these communities rely for their income. An excellent example is the Soncor Sector of Los Flamencos National Reserve, in the Atacama Desert of the Antofagasta Region, in northern Chile.

A local Lickan Antay guide explains the importance of conservation to a group of school children. Photo by Marcela Torres

Los Flamencos National Reserve is located within the Atacama La Grande Indigenous Development Area, which was established in 1997 to promote sustainable development of the ancient territories of the Lickan Antay peoples. Since then, the Lickan Antay communities have strengthened their ancient rights to use of the resources, in many cases following traditional methods, and in others applying modern natural resource management techniques.

When the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF) began charging entrance fees to visit the Reserve, at the begining of the 2000 decade, the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao cut off the access road to Laguna Chaxa, in the Soncor Sector, to demand that tourism, carried out in their ancient territories, also benefit the descendants of this ethnic group that live in the nearby town. Their action brought about a revision of the plan and CONAF and the Lickan Antay communities signed co-management agreements for four of the seven sectors of the Reserve: Soncor, Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons, Moon Valley and Tambillo.

Los Flamencos National Reserve harbors the three flamingo species found in Chile: the Andean Flamingo, the Chilean Flamingo, and James’ Flamingo. Photo by Hernán Torres

Income generated from the entrance fees to these sites, which attract national and foreign visitors, has allowed the communities to strengthen programs to aid elderly and disabled people in their communities. At the same time, a significant amount of this income is invested in the management of each sector and staff salaries. The inclusion of local community personnel in the management of these sectors has allowed CONAF to redirect its staff to sectors and activities that were previously left largely unattended due to the lack of personnel and resources that affect the institution.

First Sustainable Visitor Center

Because of the increasing interest shown by tourists arriving from the nearby town of San Pedro de Atacama, the community decided to improve the site’s infrastructure and visitor information. To that end, in 2006, it partnered with CONAF and the SQM mining company, which exploits lithium in the Atacama Salt Flat, to develop the first sustainable visitor center in a protected area in Chile.

The project included the architectural design and construction of the visitor center, incorporating techniques such as reuse of grey water and electricity generation through solar panels and windmills. The roads were also repaired and the parking lot expanded.

This was the first sustainable visitor center built in a protected area in Chile, using renewable wind and solar energy. Photo by Hernán Torres

At the same time, a group of local guides from the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao was trained in interpretation techniques to convey effectively to visitors the natural and cultural values of the area. To support this, five bilingual signs were developed for the interpretive trail and 18 for the inner hall of the center. A documentary video was also produced, in Spanish with English subtitles, to complement information provided to visitors.

The results could not have been better. Visitors to Laguna Chaxa comment that it is a pleasure to pay an entrance fee because you can see that the revenues are invested in the people and in improving the place, where you no longer find garbage lying around and there is good infrastructure. In addition, tourism has provided local people with a new source of income and each day more and more Lickan Antay Community members seek training to be part of the benefits of responsible tourism.

Part of Traventuria's clean 10-vehicle fleet in Bulgaria is a Mercedes Sprinter that can fit up to nine people. Photo courtesy of Traventuria

Green Transfers and Tours in Bulgaria

For more than 10 years, Traventuria has been providing reliable ground transportation that focuses on all of Bulgaria, but also extends to and from major airports in neighbouring Skopje, Macedonia and Thessaloniki, Greece.

But what really sets Traventuria apart is its fleet of well-maintained vehicles that comply with either Euro 4 or Euro 5 emissions standards, a measure of the acceptable limits for exhaust emissions of vehicles sold in European Union. Traventuria’s cars have all been equipped with particle filters and use autogas, a mixture of propane and butane that produces fewer emissions than regular petrol.

More than just a transfer and transportation service, though, Traventuria is an independent tour operator that offers to travellers a suite of tour services. The company has an enticing menu of Bulgaria excursions – everything from active short breaks and wildlife and walking tours to spa and wellness trips. Traventuria can even arrange skiing and snowboarding tours, demonstrating that there really is no such thing as low season in Bulgaria.

Bansko is one of Bulgaria's premier ski resorts that Traventuria services, and one of the pristine alpine landscapes that it cares to conserve

Grounded in Responsible Tourism

Through both transport services and tours, and drawing on years of experience as tour leaders and travelers, the staff of Traventuria demonstrates a strong commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism, going green being something in which Green Path Transfers sees great merit.

“Lots of companies juggle with words like ‘responsible’ and ‘sustainable’ travel, converting them into clichés while giving them vague and broad meanings,” observes Atenas Zahariev of the Traventuria team. “As travellers ourselves, we believe that first-class experiences and unforgettable memories are granted in isolated communities, authentic cultures, preserved habitats and lively traditions. Naturally, we want to protect them for future generations.”

As this awareness of and concern for a sustainable future guides much of Traventuria’s growth, the company is always thinking of new and better ways to act on its guiding principles and to set examples for other tour operators. For example, Traventuria has supported a number of local and international nongovernmental organisations (NGOs) in Bulgaria: as active partners with the World Wildlife Foundation (WWF) in Bulgaria, they help conserve the precious ecosystems of the lower Danube River area; they also work with the Cooperation for Voluntary Service in Bulgaria to encourage international exchange and volunteering in Bulgaria; three other partnerships are with the Regional Environmental Center, the Bulgarian Biodiversity Foundation and the Balkani Wildlife Society.

“We’re involved with basically every NGO that works with nature conservation and protection in Bulgaria,” says Zahariev.

A Traventuria vehicle drops off passengers at the Sofia airport in Bulgaria. All the petrol vehicles in the fleet have been converted to use Autogas LPG. Photo courtesy of Facebook.com/Traventuria

A Bright Partnership

Traventuria has high hopes for Green Path Transfers and the mission to turn more people on to greener forms of transit and transport.

On having joined the innovative Green Path Transfers network, Zahariev says, “We are looking forward to collaborating with Green Path Transfers in Bulgaria to help them extend their presence worldwide, and to help us broaden the number of travellers serviced.”

“We couldn’t have found a better fit for our partner criteria in Bulgaria than Traventuria,” Adrian Cordiner, founder of Green Path Transfers, comments. “They really embody the kind of tourism and transit that Green Path Transfers is about.”

To learn more about Green Path Transfers and the carbon-neutral transfer services it offers growing number of destinations around the globe, visit www.GreenPathTransfers.com.

The author grates zucchini under the watchful eye of Koula Barydakis, the chef-instructor who believes that the food of Crete, Greece, is the healthiest in the world. Photo of Heather Rath

Koula Barydakis, our ebullient chef instructor, began our local cooking lessons by pouring a shot of raki for herself and her students as we toasted the traditional Cretan diet, one of the healthiest in the world, which is a quality Barydakis makes clear in her book, Foods of Crete: Traditional Recipes from the Healthiest People in the World.

Cretan Cuisine Through the Eyes of a Local

“We Cretans eat abundantly but simply, consuming much olive oil, olives, seasonal fruits and vegetables including wild mountain greens (horta), yogurt, cheese, lentils and beans,” Barydakis explained to us. “We eat meat once a week and on special occasions. We always drink a lot of mountain tea (malotera, good for the stomach) while eating bread and olives.” It doesn’t hurt that the food is routinely flavoured with native herbs like oregano, thyme and sage, and that red wine commonly accompanies lunch and dinner.

Even cats have something to contribute to food sustainability in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

When it comes to food, Barydakis even proudly proclaims that Crete has practised sustainable living without using the name. Raki is derived from the residue of grape pressings. Most fruits and vegetables consumed are seasonal, not imported from faraway places. Crops are grown naturally without fertilisers and pesticides, just as they have been for generations. In Barydakis’s village, goats make short work of any scraps of food. Chickens are free range and their fresh eggs contain bright orange yolks. Even the scavenger street cats of Crete are part of the solution!

Modest Origins, Modest Practice

Barydakis recalls how her parents sent her to hairdressing school to learn how to earn a living unaware she also attended cooking school, where she refined the culinary skills learned from her mother and grandmother. At 16, she left Crete to travel abroad but spent most of her new life as a chef in Toronto, Canada’s Greektown before her “blessed island” lured her home again.

Delicious handmade dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice) are typical of the cuisine on Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Now she conducts her cooking classes under a patch of cobalt blue sky in an old olive oil press building renovated 10 years ago in Vamos, a traditional Cretan village. In case of rare inclement weather, she moves to a house.

During our session, we chopped, grated, mixed, pressed, formed – and dined on – rooster with Cretan pasta, kalitsounia pies (a sweet cheese pastry), grape leaves with rice (dolmades), zucchini fritters, Greek salad and garlic beets with yogurt salad washed down with liberal amounts of village wine.

A Greek Island Full of Grace

Cretan cooking is not the only lesson Barydakis taught us. She is an exuberant ambassador for her island.

“Crete is a beautiful island filled with bountiful food.’ she enthused. “The wild, natural beauty of the mountains and the ocean make you think that when God created Crete, He created all the beauty the human mind can imagine. The land is so rich with olive, lemon and orange trees, and gardens, the smell alone can make you drunk. The wide variety of herbs and flowers from ancient times found on Crete is still used to cure pains and diseases. Writers, explorers, scientists and tourists all come to Crete to see it, study it, eat the tasty foods, drink the raki and get high on its immortal wines. The people of Crete live simply and always win your heart.”

The market of fresh greens in Crete, Greece, help to make the local cuisine so rich in variety of and nutrition. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Barydakis lives her philosophy. Following my lesson, our weekends in Crete soon featured Saturdays with Barydakis. Each week we met for coffee in a different place of Chania, the ancient city on the island’s western shore, after which she took us on a leisurely walking tour to show us excellent local restaurants, and markets, and pointed out where to purchase good local wines. She led us to special churches, monasteries and gave us a thumbnail sketch of Cretan feast holidays. Our education included the island’s Second World War history and how it affected her village and family.

A Dish to Savour: Cheese and Spinach Pie

The dough
Ingredients
4 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup raki (Barydakis says white wine or lemon juice can be used instead)
a pinch of salt
warm water (as much as needed)
½ cup olive oil

Directions
Mix the ingredients and knead them well. The pastry must be a little soft. Leave it to ‘rest’ for half an hour, covered with a towel.

Zucchini fritters frying in olive oil in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

The Cheese stuffing
Ingredients
Equal amounts of ricotta and feta cheese
2 eggs
chopped sprigs of fresh mint
salt

Directions
Mix all the ingredients together and place on the pastry as below. Roll the dough until it is not more than 1-2 mm thick and then cut it into round shapes of about 8 cm in diameter. Put in a little stuffing and fold in a half moon shape. Seal the edges with a fork. Fry in hot olive oil. When they are browned on both sides, remove and serve.

Kali oreksi, enjoy your meal!

Yet even with UNESCO’s imprimatur on sites big and small, natural biospheres and even intangible culture, the same famous mega-monuments always seem to get the lion’s share of travel love. Lesser-known but equally worthy sites still fall to the wayside as travellers rush for the obligatory photos of world icons and check off another legendary site on the do-before-I-die lists.

UNESCO recognition through its World Heritage List and time in the subsequent travel spotlight can be a mixed blessing. On the one hand, a new site gets a big status boost and protection under the UNESCO umbrella. On the other hand, an influx of tourists adds pressures and more need for protection.

One way to curb this effect is for travellers to visit alternative heritage destinations where high tourism congestion isn’t causing problems. In that spirit, below is our list of seven UNESCO World Heritage all-stars plus just-as-incredible alternatives. Why not avoid the heavy traffic and step lightly while doing your own thing? That way, the all-stars won’t get loved to death and more places will have a chance to benefit. The photos will be just as cool.

The All-star: Chichén Itzá in Cancun, Mexico. Photo courtesy of flickr/Dtraveller

1. The All-Star: Chichén Itzá in Yucatan, Mexico

The iconic Mayan pyramid of Chichén Itzá was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988. Then, in 2007, it was nominated for the New Seven Wonders of the World. Now that it has officially been identified as one of the honoured seven, some predict tourist visits will double within five years. As a convenient day trip from the mass-tourism destination of Cancun, Chichén Itzá, given its amazing story and stunning coastal location, is the second-most-visited ruins site in Mexico. Authorities have gradually needed to close parts of the monument to the public, no longer allowing visitors to enter interior chambers.

The Alternative: Palenque in Chiapas, Mexico. Photo courtesy of flickr/Ivanka Majic

The Alternative: Palenque in Chiapas, Mexico

Deep in the jungle of Chiapas in southern Mexico are the ruins of the ancient Mayan city of Palenque, which was inscribed as an official UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. While it doesn’t attract the kind of mass tourism that Chichén Itzá does, thousands visit it each year. Guided tours fascinate with stories about the buildings’ precise astronomical alignment and visitors can still go into some of the ancient passages and chambers.

The All-star: The Great Wall of China. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Jakub Halun

2. The All-Star: Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China is one of the best-known world monuments of all time, but added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 1987. The Badaling section of the wall, near Beijing, attracts around 10 million visitors per year. Sadly, as a result, Geography in the News points out that “There is little concern over protection and conservation. Instead, exploitation of the site has culminated in an almost Disneyland type scene.” Booming tourism, development and inadequate protection are eating away at the Great Wall, of which as much as two-thirds are in a state of collapse.

The Alternative: Wall of Ston, Croatia. Photo courtesy of flickr/Poo-tee-weet?

The Alternative: Walls of Ston in Croatia

While nothing can really compare with the magnitude and might of the Great Wall of China, it is definitely not the only great wall in the world. In the historical city of Dubrovnik on the Adriatic coast of Croatia, for example, are the Walls of Ston, known as the “European Wall of China.” It dates back to the 15th century and its 5.5 kilometres of length form an irregular pentangle.

The All-star: The Parthenon, Athens, Greece. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Steve Swayne

3. The All-Star: Parthenon in Athens, Greece

Lit up and glowing over Athens, Greece at night, the Parthenon is the jewel of the Acropolis, the ancient city on a hill. As the grandest remains of Greek Antiquity, the Acropolis was deemed an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. Greece is a world tourism powerhouse, welcoming more than 17.5 million visitors each year. In 2005, Athens alone received 6,088,287 tourists (each of them wanting a photo of the Parthenon without any other tourists in it).

The Alternative: Temple of Bacchus, Baalbek, Lebanon. Photo courtesy of flickr/Ben Piven

The Alternative: Temple of Bacchus in Baalbek, Lebanon

One of five of Lebanon‘s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Baalbek demonstrates that Greece is definitely not the only Mediterranean country with amazing ancient ruins. As UNESCO states about the ancient imperial city, “The archaeological site of Baalbek represents a religious complex of outstanding artistic value and its majestic monumental ensemble, with its exquisitely detailed stonework, is a unique artistic creation which reflects the amalgamation of Phoenician beliefs with the gods of the Greco-Roman pantheon through an amazing stylistic metamorphosis.”

The All-star: Medina of Fes, Morocco. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Pawel Ryszawa

4. The All-Star: Medina of Fes, Morocco

Compared to Marrakech (one of Morocco‘s most famous destinations), the city of Fes is a modest place. Yet every visitor to inland Fes is bound to wander through its medina, the walled city centre that dates back to the 8th century. By some measures, it’s the largest car-free area in the world.

The Medina of Fes has been on the official UNESCO World Heritage roster since 1981, but may soon also be added to the list of World Heritage in Danger. UNESCO cites two major threats: uncontrolled urban development due to overpopulation, and deterioration of the buildings. The governmental plan to address these issues is to safeguard everything, intervene where houses are collapsing and increase sustainable tourism.

The Alternative: Medina of Tétouan, Morocco. Photo courtesy of flickr/luisgosalbez

The Alternative: Medina of Tétouan, Morocco

In the smaller and less-touristed city of Tétouan in northern Morocco, another medina has gained World Heritage status. Full of mosques, madrassas and markets, Tétouan’s ancient city centre exhibits the same definitive Moroccan culture and tradition as its better-known counterparts in Fes and other cities. While also in need of protection and conservation, Téotuan is less overwhelmed than the Medina of Fes and in a better position to absorb increasing tourism traffic.

The All-star: Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of flickr/daveperkes

5. The All-Star: Angkor Wat, Cambodia

A spectacular temple complex from the 12th century, Angkor Wat has been a power player for tourism in Cambodia since before its 1992 inauguration as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Thomas Holdo Hansen of AngkorHotels.org, the whl.travel local connection in Cambodia, comments that “Angkor would without doubt be on my personal Top 10 World Heritage Sites list. It’s not without good reason that this important archaeological site is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and comes high up on many people’s must-see lists. The flip side of the coin is that the recent increase in tourism potentially can bring about many negative impacts if not managed properly.”

The Alternative: Preah Vihear, Cambodia. Photo courtesy of flickr/theonlymikey

The Alternative: Preah Vihear, Cambodia

Compared to Angkor Wat, Preah Vihear is a minor temple complex. It’s a less-likely tourism destination because of political strife. “Preah Vihear is more controversial but still a stunning archaeological site,” says Hansen. “It is situated right on the top edge of a steep cliff bordering the Sisaket Province in Thailand. After its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, Preah Vihear has been the centre stage for some border conflicts between Thailand and Cambodia and, thus, many travellers have been discouraged from visiting.”

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The All-star: Machu Picchu, Peru. Photo courtesy of flickr/[togr

6. The All-Star: Machu Picchu, Peru

The year 2011was special for South America’s favourite pre-Colombian archaeological site of Machu Picchu. It marked 100 years since Hiram Bingham, a Yale University historian, arrived at the majestic high-elevation Incan citadel and announced its existence to the rest of the world. Machu Picchu was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Since then, UNESCO has had to fight many battles to protect it from private interests and overdevelopment, including the implementation of a daily visitor limit. Still, safe-keepers fear irreparable damage if poor administration continues in the face of surging tourism.

The Alternative: Wiñay Wayna, Peru. Photo courtesy of flickr/Greg Headley

The Alternative: Wiñay Wayna, Peru

Also along the Inca Trail in the Sacred Valley of Peru where Machu Picchu is found, Wiñay Wayna is a minor Incan ruins site that is often considered a mere “stop in the road” on the way to Machu Picchu. While it’s true that it can’t match Machu Picchu’s scale and grandeur, Wiñay Wayna charms and impresses. With staircases and fountain structures connecting the layers of terrace, it is a perfect example of the hillside architecture traditional to the Incas.

The All-star: The Great Pyramids of Giza, Egypt. Photo courtesy of Bruno Girin

7. The All-Star: Pyramids of Giza, Egypt

The Pyramids of Giza were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. They are, of course, Egypt‘s most visited attraction. In 1999, the largest of the three pyramids was reopened after a year of restoration work. The project’s goal was to undo some of the damage caused by long-term exposure to mass tourism. According to the BBC, “humidity levels in the tunnels and chambers inside had reached 80 percent because of the sheer volume of people going in,” which caused condensation and a build-up of salt. Since then, a cap of 300 visitors per day has been set on pyramid access.

The Alternative: The Pyramids of Gebel Barkal, Sudan. Photo courtesy of flickr/shovelingtom

The Alternative: Pyramids of Gebel Barkal, Sudan

The Pyramids of Gebel Barkal are part of the larger Gebel Barkal mountain site, which was approved as a UNESCO cultural World Heritage Site in 2003. It is one of only two in the country of Sudan. The Kushitic pyramids themselves were built as a royal cemetery in the 3rd century, which makes them only half as old as and very modest in size compared to the likes of the Great Pyramids of neighbouring Egypt. Travel to Sudan is complicated at the moment, but pieces of cultural heritage like this already under UNESCO protection hold promise for a tourism future.

A gorgeous sunset at Kagaba Beach, in Lughu Bay, which is the gateway to Solomon Islands' East Rennell World Heritage Site (Lake Te'Nggano). Photo by Rennell World Heritage Site Tours

Can this precarious balance be achieved? Can an island like Rennell, which is the highest raised coral atoll in the world, expand its tourism offering while still maintaining its precious ecological integrity? After all, there is more to Rennell’s natural heritage than its inherent value to the environment; it is also Rennell’s main tourism asset.

The Vision of Rennell World Heritage Site Tours

Attempting to strike this balance are the local leaders at Rennell World Heritage Site Tours. They established their tour company with the clear goal of enlightening local stakeholder (including business owners, the provincial government and the national government) about Rennell Island’s potential as a national tourism asset and of turning it into a significant contributor to the country’s economy. They aim to raise Rennell’s profile as a popular destination in the Solomon Islands and in the South Pacific. At the same time, the new tour operator is careful to capitalise on existing infrastructure and attractions so as to leave the island’s special natural conditions as unaltered as possible.

A boat transfers tour passengers to Tuhugago Beach after a morning of bush trekking from Niupani Village on Rennell Island, part of the Solomon Islands. Photo by Rennell World Heritage Site Tours

As its name makes clear, Rennell World Heritage Site Tours is a local specialist in adventure circuit tours on Rennell Island, including trips to Lake Te’Nggano World Heritage Site (also known as Tegano and Tungano, the largest freshwater lake in the South Pacific). Their guides are very experienced in the terrain and know how to make each visit comfortable and memorable. They take great pride in exploring the unexplored with their guests, so much so that some of the sites they visit have never even been photographed, meaning their guests may be the first to frame them.

Low-Impact Activities and Lodging

The itineraries of trips organised by Rennell World Heritage Site Tours focus on immersive and low-impact activities. On the Lake Te’Nggano tour, for example, guests enjoy swimming in the lake, interacting with the friendly local people and just enjoying the singing of the birds in the early morning. In fact, given its huge number of endemic bird species, all of Rennell is a prime birdwatching destination.

On the Solomon Islands' Rennell Island, a trail from Tuhugago Beach leads into the lush foliage of the interior. Photo by Rennell World Heritage Tours

On the Niupani Village to Tuhugago Beach tour, bush treks lead guests to scenic vista points such as the unforgettable Tuhugago Lookout. Closer to (and below) sea level, adventurous travellers can glimpse the underwater world while swimming and snorkelling in the clean crystal sea at the Tuhugago and Kagaba beaches. Anyone interested in diving can even opt to explore the underwater shipwreck of the US WWII PBY Catalina at Hutuna Village.

On their tours, Rennell World Heritage Site Tours is careful to partner with ecolodges that are owned and operated by local people. Meals consist mainly of fruit and Rennellese local-style cuisine, including the plentiful and fresh seafood. Toilets and bath facilities rely on basic but effective rainwater catchment systems, also used for drinking and cooking.

A fuzzy lake bird looks back at travellers trekking to Niupani Village on Rennell Island of the Solomon Islands. Photo by Rennell World Heritage Tours

“A True Natural Laboratory”

East Rennell (Lake Te’Nggano) was listed by UNESCO as a natural World Heritage Site in 1998. It is the only one belonging to Solomon Islands in this subregion of the Pacific, which also includes sites in Australia and New Zealand, as well as two other official sites – Easter Island and Henderson Island – under the auspices of Chile and the U.K., respectively.

East Rennell is described by UNESCO as “a stepping stone in the migration and evolution of species in the western Pacific, and an important site for the science of island biogeography.” Due to the great biodiversity, not to mention its status as the largest insular lake in the Pacific and as the largest raised coral atoll in the world, “East Rennell is a true natural laboratory for scientific study.”

To explore the natural heritage of Rennell Island, contact Rennell World Heritage Site Tours.

Will the world end? Probably not. This date is simply the end of a 5,125-year-long cycle on the Mayan calendar. While many people believe that its finish portends major astronomical phenomena, which have been largely misinterpreted and misunderstood as ‘end times’ prophesies, other new-age interpretations of the date herald it as the end of one spiritual era and the beginning of another – we will undergo a transformation, they say.

The highest points of Tikal's pyramids rise above the surrounding rainforest canopy. Tikal is a Mayan must-see ruin in Guatemala. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

Rather than preparing for the apocalypse, though, why not plan a 2012 tour of the Mayan pyramids and prophesies in Guatemala? Explore the grand ruins of ancient Mayan civilisations. Meet a traditional living Mayan community of today and find out firsthand what they are thinking and doing as you take part in sacred rituals and ceremonies.

Visit Ancient Mayan Ruins of Tikal and Cancuen

On one such itinerary – an eight-day short break offered by Gunyah – the final visit is to Tikal, one of the most famous and visited ruins sites in the western hemisphere. Nothing short of resplendent, it is the archaeological site with the most restored pyramids in Guatemala. Its towering monuments and sprawling acropolis are some of the highest structures in the Americas from the Classic Period of 200 to 900 AD, when the Mayan civilisation was at its prime. Tikal was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Before reaching Tikal, there’s a chance to take in one of the lesser-known Mayan heritage sites like Cancuén. Cancuén has no pyramids to compete with Tikal; rather, its ancient inhabitants are believed to have lived in the woods and caves nearby, while the royalty lived in the palaces whose ruins are a highlight for visitors today. Cancuén is unique as an archaeological site because its local indigenous community remains intact. Through sustainable tourism initiatives like the Gunyah experience, local guides are working together with archaeologists to stay connected with their heritage and share it with visitors.

At the heart of the Gunyah pyramids and prophesies tour is interaction with local Mayan people - a Q'eqchi community - to share their culture, traditions and even a ceremony or ritual. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

Experience Mayan Ceremonies and Legends Firsthand

Any pyramids-and-prophecies tour should take you directly into a local Mayan community, where you can interact with the people and participate in a traditional ritual. One day of the Gunyah experience is dedicated to sharing in a ceremony with the community. What ritual it will be depends on the time of the year; for example, it could be a ceremony in the dry season asking for rain.

The Maya people have ceremonies for almost all aspects of daily life. Carried down through the generations from ancient teachings, these ceremonies are sacred and it is rare that outsiders are allowed to participate. However, the community shares its unique ceremonies with travellers in order to explain their importance. This way, visitors can learn about Mayan beliefs. It’s a chance to ask questions!

Beyond the End Times Prophecies

If you plan a pyramids and prophecies tour to coincide exactly with December 21, 2012, in hopes of seeing the world implode from its Mayan epicentre, you may be disappointed. More than apocalyptic rumours and hype, the Gunyah short break is about experiences with real local Mayan people in Guatemala, the Q’eqchi. It’s a chance to coexist with them and take part in their living culture – their traditions, their ceremonies and their daily life. By sharing meals and stories, you can see directly how they apply their sacred calendar and cosmic vision of the world to their everyday lives.

Beyond the ancient Mayan ruins and local culture, the Gunyah pyramids and prophesies tour itinerary is full of magic moments in Guatemala's wild green outdoors. Photo courtesy of Journey Adventure

The Gunyah Pyramids and Prophecies experience is also a great way to make the most of eight days in Guatemala. In addition to the visits to two ancient ruins and interactions with a local community, the itinerary packs in highlights and surprises like special lodging in the colonial city of Antigua, a tubing trip through the Candelaria Caves and a boat tour down the Pasión River.

Looking for more local and authentic trips in Guatemala and all over the world? Gunyah short breaks combine the mind-blowing spontaneity of independent travel with the convenience of a package holiday vacation for people who want real experiences when they travel.

True, Albania might not come to mind as a destination for amazing ruins and cultural heritage, especially in the shadow of an archaeological giant like Greece, its neighbour to the south. Yet ancient civilisations have left their fascinating marks throughout the Balkan peninsula, including Albania. In fact, all of Albania’s three UNESCO-listed World Heritage Sites exhibit grand-scale traits to rival any of their Balkan neighbours. And the tale of the Cyclops from Homer’s epic Odyssey is understood to have been set in Albania.

Like a thousand unblinking eyes, the famous windows of Berat, Albania, stare back at admirers. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Joonasl

Berat, City of a Thousand Windows

The historic centre of Berat, also known as “the city of a thousand windows,” made the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008. Walking next to the river and wandering through Berat’s narrow alleys, takes you back in time and reveals the rich history of a settlement dating from 2600-1800 BCE, making it one of the oldest towns in Albania. The interesting architecture shows Islamic influences from the Ottoman period, but also of Christian Orthodox traditions. On top of the hill is a beautiful medieval citadel with a lively village, beautiful churches and a mosque inside the fortress walls.

Are there really a thousand windows, as stipulated by the city’s epithet? An official count hasn’t surfaced yet, but looking out onto the layers of whitewashed buildings that make up the face of Berat, you do indeed get the impression of thousands of eyes (the rows and rows of windows) gazing back.

Gjirokastra in southern Albania is known as the "city of two thousand steps." Three locals have picked one of them for spending a quiet afternoon. Photo courtesy of flickr/formanella

Gjirokastra, City of Two Thousand Steps

Located in the beautiful Drinos River valley in Southern Albania you’ll find Gjirokastra, a city with a tumultuous past. It has served as a feudal stronghold, Ottoman jewel, Italian colony and territory occupied by the Greek army during the first Balkan war.

Gjirokastra is hometown to two of the most notorious Albanians: Communist dictator Enver Hoxha and writer Ismail Kadare. The city retains an impressive fortress, a bazaar, an 18th-century mosque and several churches. It was inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2005.

Gjirokastra’s unique architecture, developed in the 17th century by the Ottomans when building on steep hills, features distinctive stone roofs, wooden balconies, whitewashed stone walls and many stepped passageways. This is why Gjirokastra carries the nickname “city of two thousand steps.” Again, an official count has yet to be made, but wandering up and down the steep alleyways of Gjirokastra, you will have little doubt that the city has certainly earned its nickname.

Each year, thousands of tourists visit the ancient ruins of Butrint, Albania, reaffirming its need for both UNESCO and governmental protection. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Marc Morell

Butrint, Preserved for Visitors in the Thousands

Situated on a small peninsula surrounded by a picturesque lagoon in southern Albania, Butrint is arguably the most interesting archaeological site of the Adriatic Sea region. Inhabited since prehistoric times, this site has been home to Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians who built their monuments in glades in the forest. Butrint is both an archaeological site and also a beautiful natural habitat with diverse plant and bird life.

Butrint was designated as a World Heritage Site in 1992. Five years later, during the period of civil unrest in Albania in 1997, Butrint was removed to the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger. As a result, huge investments were made to protect the archaeological site and to extend the protected area to include the surrounding landscapes. That led to declaring the 29 square kilometres around it a national park in 2000 and the park has since been extended to 86 square kilometres. The site was removed from the ‘in danger’ list and its status now helps curb encroaching construction. Butrint attracted around 20,000 visitors in 1996 and the number grows each year, confirming its importance to Albanian heritage and tourism. Its doubly-protected status as UNESCO site and a national park helps ensure that tourism pressure is regulated and tourism dollars keep the site preserved.

Are you planning a trip to Albania? Check out the villages of the northern mountains, the coasts of the Adriatic and Ionian seas, and the rich cultural heritage with Outdoor Albania, the whl.travel local connection headquartered in Tirana, Albania.

Spread across south-central Brazil and covering an area larger than the island of Great Britain, the Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland. Running through the state of Mato Grosso, North Pantanal comprises a delicate ecosystem that benefits from dual seasons of flooding and droughts. The intense rains that deluge the region annually give way to a dry season during which grasslands thrive and support over 70 species of mammals.

Seasonal floods of the North Pantanal region of Brazil make for lush, green vegetation that supports over 70 species of mammals and hundreds of different kinds of birds and fish. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

The local human residents of the region fit into the all-embracing ecosystem as well. Cattle ranchers graze their stock on the abundance of green grass that shoots up during the dry season and the annual floods support one of the largest fishing areas in the world. In fact, in addition to nature appreciation, fishing is a big draw for visitors interested in several types of ‘big game’ fish amongst the 262 species inhabiting the region’s freshwater basins.

But fishing is just one of many outdoor activities in North Pantanal. Numerous tours through the wetlands provide a chance to observe native species, such as cayman alligators, jaguars and parrots, in the wild, while resource centres like the Refugio Ecolologico Caiman guide guests to a better understanding of the preservation and conservation processes underway to bolster and protect the region’s incredible biodiversity. The distinctly blue hyacinth macaw and famous jaguar are just two species that the centre has made great strides in helping to sustain.

A wide variety of hotels and lodgings in North Pantanal facilitate overnighting in the midst of one of Brazil’s foremost ecological wonders. The hosts at many lodges understand the potential impact that increased tourism can have in the region and have endeavoured to structure their hotels around sustainable practices. Pousada Rio Claro, for example, partners with local craftsmen and artisans, and bridges the divide between local residents and guests by developing events, lectures and workshops centred on Pantanal culture.

José Namen, the whl.travel local connection in North Pantanal, is no stranger to the process of integrating tourist infrastructure into nature’s delicate balance in North Pantanal. A Pantanal-born native, Namen understands the complexity of the interwoven systems – both those within the wetlands themselves and those astride the wetlands and the people who live there.

In North Pantanal, Brazil, a group of horseback riders moves through an area of blossoming Ipê trees during their short, seasonal blooming. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

As Namen states, “Lucas, my business partner, and I come from a family of traditional farmers in the Pantanal. Therefore, we learned to respect and love the impressive fauna and the astonishing landscapes of this amazing ecosystem, as well as the people who live here and their strong culture.”

For instance, on the one hand, he has advocated for regulating angling practices to protect certain species from overfishing and extinction; on the other hand, he understands that fishing is a central way of life for many local residents and that making changes to one part of the system can have unintended effects on another. Armed with this nuanced approach, he advocates for educational programs and the development of alternative sources of income for families that rely on the Pantanal for survival.

“We are excited about our partnership with whl.travel because we share the same view that tourism should help to protect the environment and promote the local people and their culture through the creation of jobs and the injection of resources into the local economy,” continues Namen. “We are sure that whl.travel will help us in marketing the Pantanal to the global market as an important touristic destination, and that we’ll succeed in achieving our goals.”

Pantanal Norte joins an ever-growing list of successful whl.travel destinations in Brazil, including South Pantanal.

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EM PORTUGUÊS / IN PORTUGUESE:

Localizado no centro-oeste brasileiro, cobrindo uma área maior que a Inglaterra, o pantanal é a maior área de terras alagadas do mundo. Percorrendo o estado do Mato Grosso, o Pantanal Norte compreende um delicado ecossistema que se modifica em função de duas temporadas ou estações, a época da cheia e alagamentos e a época de seca ou estiagem. A chuva intensa que cai anualmente e inunda sua vasta área, abre caminho para a temporada seca onde as áreas verdes prosperam e dão suporte para mais de 70 espécies de mamíferos.

A group of caymen alligators, native to the North Pantanal region of Brazil, gather at the water's edge. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

As pessoas que moram na região adaptam suas vidas da maneira que o ecossistema da região exige e levam a vida de acordo com o que ele proporciona. Criadores de gado criam seus rebanhos na abundancia de pastagens que crescem durante a temporada seca que sucede a cheia anual devida a época das chuvas intensas. Chuvas que dão suporte para uma das áreas de maior ocorrência de peixes do mundo, adicionando a apreciação da natureza, a pesca, um grande atrativo para visitantes interessados nas várias espécies de grandes peixes dentre as 262 espécies que ocorrem na região.

A pesca de peixes grandes é somente uma das varias atividades no Pantanal Norte. Diferentes passeios pelas terras alagadas proporcionam a chance de conhecer espécies nativas como os jacarés, onças pintadas, araras azuis e outros animais em seu habitat natural. Ao mesmo tempo, centros de recursos como o Refugio Ecológico Caiman mostram aos turistas um melhor entendimento do processo de preservação e conservação em andamento para proteção da incrível biodiversidade da região. A Rara Arara Azul e a famosa Onça Pintada são apenas duas das espécies que o centro trabalha para preservar e, neste sentido, já fez grandes avanços.

A ampla variedade de hotéis e alojamentos no Pantanal Norte facilita o pernoite em meio a uma das maiores maravilhas ecológicas brasileiras. Os anfitriões de muitas hospedagens sabem do grande impacto que o turismo tem na região e vem se esforçando para estruturar seus hotéis baseados em praticas sustentáveis. A Pousada Rio Claro, por exemplo, parceiros de artesões locais estreitam o relacionamento entre nativos da região e turistas, desenvolvendo eventos, palestras e oficinas centrados na cultura Pantaneira.

José Namen, a conexão da WHL no Pantanal Norte não é estranho no processo de integração da infraestrutura turística com a delicada natureza do Pantanal Norte. Um nativo pantaneiro, Namen entende a complexidade dos sistemas interligados, tanto os das áreas alagáveis, quanto os montados pelas pessoas que ali vivem.

The Ipê tree is iconic of the Pantanal of Brazil. Blossoms may be bright pink, yellow or white. Flourishing in September, the colours only last for about week, seeming to explode rather than blossom. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

Como Namen fala, “Lucas, meu parceiro neste negocio e eu viemos de uma tradicional família de fazendeiros do Pantanal. Com isso, nós aprendemos a respeitar e a amar a fauna e as impressionantes paisagens deste surpreendente ecossistema, juntamente com seu povo nativo e sua forte cultura.”

Como exemplo, por um lado ele defende a regulamentação da pratica da pesca esportiva para a proteção de certas espécies da pesca excessiva. Por outro lado, ele entende que a pesca é o principal meio de vida para muitos dos moradores locais e que, intercedendo em uma parte do sistema, pode causar importantes consequências não intencionais em outra. Armado com essa diferenciada abordagem, ele defende programas educacionais para desenvolvimento de meios alternativos de fontes de renda para as famílias que dependem do pantanal para sobreviver.

“Estamos animados com a parceria com a whl.travel pois compartilhamos a mesma crença de que o turismo deve ajudar a preservar o meio ambiente e promover os moradores da região e sua cultura através da criação de empregos e da injeção de recursos na economia local,” completa Namen. “ Temos certeza de que a whl.travel nos ajudará a promover o Pantanal para o mercado mundial como um importante destino turístico e que com isso vamos conseguir alcançar nossos objetivos.”

O Pantanal Norte se junta a uma crescente lista de destinos brasileiros bem sucedidos da whl.travel, incluindo Pantanal Sul.

Such is the case with The Region Initiative (TRI), a broad-based, tri-regional responsible-tourism partnership founded in May 2010 and spanning South Asia, Central Asia and Eastern Europe with the goal of connecting communities along the ancient Silk Road. By working with a coalition of nongovernmental stakeholders, including tour operators, nongovernmental organisations, tourism experts, academia and youth, TRI hopes to push beyond the similar threats and challenges faced by destinations along the Silk Road and sharpen the focus on the regions’ shared opportunities, particularly with regard to responsible travel and tourism.

An Enduring Ride on the Silk Road

What is known today as the “Silk Road” (also called the Silk Route) is a vast network of interconnecting routes that was arguably the most important transcontinental trade road in history. It once extended nearly 12,000 kilometres and linked many powerful civilisations across ancient China, India, Tibet, Egypt, the Persian Empire and the Mediterranean. Beginning around 200 B.C.E., merchants managed highly lucrative businesses along these interweaving long-distance tracks, bartering for all manner of goods that included spices, tea, gold, jewels, ivory, silk, carpets, porcelain and much much more.

But the Silk Road was more than just a channel for trade. Following in the footsteps of these tradesmen, other travellers, such as nomads, missionaries, pilgrims, conquerors and early explorers (some of them long before Marco Polo), set forth from all corners of the world, forging cross-cultural connections that encouraged the spread of spiritual wealth, religious doctrine, great scholarship, art and architecture, and resulted in numerous intellectual exchanges. Strong echoes of the ties born in these early times still exist to this day.

The modern “Silk Road” also remains an inspiration and magnet for curious and intrepid travellers. In fact, for decades, the growth of tourism in regions along the Silk Road has been steady, bringing with it new challenges as well as the strong potential for improving local economies. And now, in a good 21st-century twist, there’s growing community-led unity behind a quest to promote sustainable tourism and travel along the Silk Road.

In Nepal, one of the Silk Road countries participating in The Region Initiative, emblematic eyes are painted on Swayambunath temple in Kathmandu

Creating Sustainable Tourism Connections

While governments often put politics ahead of policy and sometimes fail to establish strong international collaborative ties among those in the tourism sector, other groups, like TRI, are leading the process of building cross-border partnerships in the industry and to encourage responsible tourism.

TRI has already established its presence in 15 Silk Road countries: Armenia, Bangladesh, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, India, Pakistan, Nepal, Tajikistan, Russia, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Ukraine and Uzbekistan. Tourism operators in each of these countries have adopted the aim of encouraging local travel professionals to share ideas and strategies that minimise the negative impacts of mass tourism and instead encourage sustainable, long-term and responsible practices, focusing more on history, people and culture than on the their outer trappings.

Unfortunately, the way ahead is not as smooth as silk. With current or recent armed conflicts in Afghanistan, India, Nepal Pakistan and Sri Lanka in South Asia, as well as economic and political unrest in several Central Asian republics and in Eastern Europe, there are many obstacles to overcome. But high hopes persist through the efforts of The Region Initiative to support small community-based tourism stakeholders who work as accommodation providers, tour operators and guides.

For more information about The Region Initiative, please visit www.theregionaltourism.org.

The author, Anja, is surrounded by kids on her Bloom Microventures microfinance tour outside Hanoi, Vietnam, while she attempts to communicate with them in Vietnamese. Photo courtesy of Bloom Microventures

Travel in Full Bloom

The way Bloom combines tourism with microfinance is extremely innovative. Compared to numerous microfinance institutions, Bloom’s unique model of cross-subsidising microfinance operations with income generated through tourism enables the organisation to have a far greater social impact.

Thanks to the revenue earned from tourists like me, the organisation does not depend entirely on interest repayments in order to finance their operations. As a result, Bloom can charge much lower interest rates and can focus on the poorest individuals and communities who are often excluded from traditional microfinance schemes.

The tours are also a powerful word-of-mouth tool. By meeting the borrowers on a tour, we could see clearly just how very successful Bloom’s program has been in lifting some of the poorest women in Vietnam out of poverty. On top of this, the tour itself was very enjoyable, and the beautiful countryside was such a welcome contrast to the bustle of Hanoi.
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Every part of the tour was like opening a window into another world.

Meeting Ms. La

First, we visited Ms. La, who had already received a loan from a previous Bloom Microventures tour. We all listened with rapt attention when she told us about her business: how she has made significant progress and is looking to reinvest profit earned from her chicken farm to provide a better life for her nine-year-old daughter, Huong.

I was left marvelling at how she takes care of her Huong by working in the nearby garment factory, tending to her field and looking after her livestock. As a single mother, she is the sole breadwinner of the family.

We equally admired Huong, who, at such a young age, cycles an hour to school every day, cooks for her family while her mother works and decorates the house with colourful drawings. I think I was not the only one nostalgic about my childhood at that moment.

Travellers on a Bloom Microventures microfinance tour walk through the hills around Nam Son, Vietnam, to the edge of a small beautiful lake. Photo courtesy of Bloom Microventures

During our visit, Ms. La showed us her chickens and how to pet them! We even got a lesson in making delicious traditional Vietnamese black sesame-seed rice crackers from Ms. La’s mother.

Lunching with Ms. Huong

To stretch our legs, we took a short walk through the surrounding hills and along the edge of a small lake nestled in the commune of Nam Son, where we paused to take it the area’s tranquil beauty.   From there, we headed to Ms. Huong’s for a simple but delicious Vietnamese lunch, enjoyed while listening to stories she told about the lives of rural Vietnamese women. The stories all came to life when we took a bike ride around the village and along the lush green rice paddy fields.

The Bloom Microfinance tour must leave Soc Son, Vietnam, and say goodbye to Ms. Toan and her family, but not without wishing her luck with her new microfinanced venture. Photo courtesy of Bloom Microventures

Loaning to Ms. Toan

As the weather cooled a bit, we came to the highlight of our tour: meeting the woman whose loan would be funded from our tour fees. We were all keen to learn about Ms. Toan’s plans and ambitions for the future, which all start with the purchase of 60–80 chickens for eggs and for meat, depending on future prices. Funnily enough, the discussion very quickly turned from raising chickens to the intricacies of traditional Vietnamese weddings. It was a very relaxed interaction that saw all of us sharing funny incidents from our pasts!

Ms. Toan’s children were a real delight. They loved the attention we gave, especially when we were giving them piggyback rides. They were definitely the coolest kids in the village!    Arguably the best part of our day was meeting all the local children, who even performed an impromptu dance for us that they had been rehearsing for Independence Day. Their enthusiasm was contagious!

The kids of Soc Son, Vietnam, were completely in love with Bloom Microfinance tour participant Lidiya, and wanted to keep her home. Photo courtesy of Bloom Microventures

As the sun slowly set on the rice paddies of Soc Son, we knew it was time to say goodbye and return to Hanoi. We thought of all the stories we had heard that day, the images we had seen and the scents, flavours and feelings we had picked up when learning about this village world.

Memories of my Bloom experiences will be carefully stored, as they are among the best souvenirs any tourist could bring home from a journey. Overall, my Bloom Microventures microfinance tour was by far the best tour I have ever done, one that I would recommend to all.

Bloom Microventures’ unique tours are an amazing new way to experience Vietnam and to help alleviate poverty in an exciting and interactive way. It is currently listed as #2 on TripAdvisor of tours to take in Hanoi.

Well, the pace hasn’t lifted. Not long after saluting its six-month anniversary, Green Path Transfers took brief note of its 100th destination and then plunged tirelessly onward. As I write this, the total is already 123 destinations in 44 countries, ahead of the pace needed to meet the goal of being operational in 200 destinations a year after launch.

A Quality Alternative

As we never tire of telling, Green Path Transfers pursues a vision of competitively priced airport transfers and inter-city ground transportation operators by local partners all across the globe committed to environmental sustainability, especially through the use of low-carbon-emission fuels or engines.

Green Path Transfers unifies existing local service-minded businesses around a goal to go ‘green’ and then uses that collective presence to raise the profile of earth-conscious transfer options worldwide, appealing to the growing number of business and leisure travellers wishing to book eco-friendly transport.

By working with carefully selected partners that maintain top-quality fleets and assure comfort, quality and competency, Green Path Transfers also leaves tread marks on the notion that low-carbon-emissions vehicles running on alternative-fuel engine systems can’t deliver a level of price and service comparable with that of non-green options.

Clean Technology

Green tech is here to stay. It better be if we’re going to repair (and halt) the punishment from which our planet suffers. That’s why Green Path Transfers partners use or hope to use vehicles powered by recycled vegetable oil; engines running on renewable, non-toxic and all-natural fuels like biodiesel and ethanol; Ultra-Low and Super Ultra-Low Emissions Vehicles (ULEVs and SULEVs) and alternative-fuel cars using compressed natural gas (CNG); and hybrid cars.

But the latest tools needed for minimising one’s footprint aren’t available everywhere; some local partners do not yet have green-technology fleets (especially in emerging economies). Green Path Transfers therefore guarantees its intentions through a 100% carbon-offset emissions policy. Through verified third-party carbon-offset organisations like atmosfair and Blue Ventures, Green Path Transfers brings customers peace of mind with the knowledge that their trips are helping to fund clean-energy projects worldwide, from solar energy programs in India to hydraulic irrigation systems for rural farmers in China.

“Every little bit helps,” says Adrian Cordiner, CEO of Green Path Transfers. “We hope that, by being an industry leader in the use and support of cleaner technology, both in transfers and through offsets, we will inspire others to follow suit.”

To learn more about Green Path Transfers and how be part of carbon-neutral travel arrangements that emphasise green technology, visit www.GreenPathTransfers.com.