We’ve asked our global network of local tourism professionals about the ‘length of stay’ factor in their destinations. Answers varied, but they all agree on one thing: the average tourist isn’t a slow traveller and just doesn’t stay long enough to really appreciate a place.

We’ve shared the thoughts of 15 of our local partners on how long is long enough and what the average fast traveller is missing.

The moving sand dunes on the Curonian Spit, near the town of Nida, Lithuania. Photo courtesy of Flickr.com/Lee Fenner

Lithuania

Average length of stay: Three days to visit the three main cities in Lithuania – Vilnius, Kaunas and Klaipeda.
Recommended length of stay: One week at least. Two weeks would be even better to allow time at the awesome beaches on the Baltic Sea in summertime or Druskininkai spa resort.
How to travel slow in Lithuania: Cycling, canoeing, taking hot air balloon rides and relaxing by the seaside or at the spa.
~ Kestas Lukoskinas, the whl.travel local connection in Lithuania

Browsing the local markets of Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradeliza

Luang Prabang, Laos

Average length of stay: Three to four days.
Recommended length of stay: Two weeks, in order to include outdoor activities around Luang Prabang, which is also to be considered in other destinations like Nong Khiaw, Vang Vieng and Vientiane.
How to travel slow in Luang Prabang: Practice the art of doing nothing! Just sit beside the river with a drink, relax and soak in the ambience. Rivers are the lifeblood of Laos and its key destinations (Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang), so take the time to travel via the Mekong River, as local people do. For example, take a slow boat cruise from Luang Prabang to the Thai border.
~ Cindy Fan, the whl.travel local partner in Luang Prabang

Boats near the Sunday Morning Fish Market in Marsaxlokk, Malta. Photo courtesy of Louisa Attard

Malta

Average length of stay: 8.2 nights. This number is quite high compared to other countries, mainly due to the many long stays of English school students.
Recommended length of stay: Between two and three weeks. Take your time with each site so you really can appreciate the atmosphere. Even though Malta is very small there’s still so much to see.
How to travel slow in Malta: Find more time to experience the landscape by foot. Go hiking in Malta, especially in spring. Take five days, pack up some camping gear and hike around the whole island of Gozo. You’ll be surrounded by pure nature.
~ Marco Attard, the whl.travel local connection in Malta

Surfing at sunset on Ipanema Beach, Rio de Janiero, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Luiz Renato Malcher

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Average length of stay: Two to three nights.
Recommended length of stay: At least one week.
How to travel slow in Rio de Janeiro: Try the local brownie with chilly pepper jam in one of the cosy cafés in the Santa Teresa area of Rio de Janeiro. See the samba rehearsals on Saturdays at a local samba school. Visit a favela. Watch a soccer match in Maracanã Stadium. Sample the nightlife in the bars and clubs of the Lapa district. The list could go on and on!
~ Luiz Renato Malcher, the whl.travel local partner in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

A fuzzy lake bird spotted on a trek to Niupani Village on Rennell Island of the Solomon Islands. Photo by Rennell World Heritage Tours

Solomon Islands

Average length of stay: 10.92 days (according to a study completed in 2009).
Recommended length of stay: Essentially it would take months to reach the 900+ islands on local transport, but you need about two to three weeks minimum to get a real feel for the Solomon Islands. Most visitors take the first four or five days just to slow down and stop looking at their watches.
How to travel slow in the Solomon Islands: Stop and stay overnight in a local village. Stroll through and watch how life moves at ‘Solomon Time.’ Sit down with locals to learn about how simple a lifestyle they have.
~ Kerrie Kennedy, the whl.travel local partner in Solomon Islands

The view from Apparition Hill in Mejugorie, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Photo courtesy of Mate T. Vasilj

Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Average length of stay: Four to seven nights.
Recommended length of stay: Six nights and seven days in Medjugorje to see it well.
How to travel slow in Medjugorje: Attend the frequent talks in John Paul II hall given by local Franciscan priests of the Medjugorje parish. Find peaceful time for prayer or just walk through the fields. If you stay longer, you will have the chance to be a part of the Medjugorje local community. Stop for casual conversation with locals.
~ Zana R-Bilal, the whl.travel local connection in Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Kite surfing in Florianópolis, Brazil. Photo courtesy of Renata Asprino

Florianópolis, Brazil

Average length of stay: Travellers spend from five to seven days here.
Recommended length of stay: A minimum of seven days, but 15 days would be better to really experience the island of Florianópolis.
How to travel slow in Florianópolis: Get in close contact with the island’s well-preserved nature. Hike to remote fishing villages or to archaeological sites. Mountain bike to refreshing waterfalls. Learning to kite-surf, go birdwatching or just relax on the beach.
~ Renata Asprino, the whl.travel local connection in Florianópolis, Brazil

Ushguli, the highest village in Europe, is towered over by Mt. Shkhara in Georgia. Photo courtesy of Ia Kverghelidze

Tbilisi and Caucasus Mountains, Georgia

Average length of stay: Seven days.
Recommended length of stay: 7-12 days. Although Georgia is a small country, all its regions are different from one another.
How to travel slow in Georgia: The best way to feel the Georgian spirit is to hike in the remote mountains, where ancient and medieval towers are still preserved. Visit Ushguli, the highest settlement in Europe. Compare the nature, architecture and traditions of the mountainous areas of Tusheti, Svaneti and Khevsureti. Other options of active travel are mountain biking and rafting. Georgia is famous for its wine. A wine tour in the Kakheti region, with advanced winemaking techniques and many vineyards, promises tasty wine and meals.
~ Ia Kverghelidze, the whl.travel local partner in Georgia

A typical road scene outside Petriti in southeast Corfu, Greece. Photo courtesy of Jillian Wareham

Corfu, Greece

Average length of stay: Around 7-10 days
Recommended length of stay: At least 14-21 days
How to travel slow in Corfu: Since north, south and west Corfu are so different from each other, just spend a few days on each coast. Find Paxos Island. Go snorkelling or diving. Ride horses. Try cycling, walking or hiking.
~ Sandra Broedner, the whl.travel local partner in Corfu, Greece

Recycling paper at the Nchima Paper Recycling Trust in Malawi. Photo courtesy of Will Turner.

Malawi

Average length of stay: Two weeks.
Recommended length of stay: Two to three weeks.
How to travel slow in Malawi: Try activities that are unique to Malawi, like visiting its rural areas, especially the mountains and rural villages.
~ Kate Webb, the whl.travel local partner in Malawi

Boat painting at Slow Travel Art Lodge in Panama. Photo courtesy of Sandrine-Pia Casto

Panama

Average length of stay: Three days.
Recommended length of stay: At least five days.
How to travel slow in Panama: Look for traditional fishing and handicraft workshops with the local population, discover islands off the coast of Panama and visit Coiba National Park.
~ Sandrine-Pia Casto, the whl.travel local partner in Panama City, Panama

Inside a traditional longhouse used by the Rungus tribes of Borneo, Malaysia. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

Borneo, Malaysia

Average length of stay: One week.
Recommended length of stay: At least two weeks.
How to travel slow in Borneo: Visit the Mari-mari Cultural Village. Cook local dishes from Malaysia and taste local delicacies. Visit Kinabalu Park and Poring Hot Springs. Taste local fruits when in season. Stroll through the Sunday Market on Gaya Street in Kota Kinabalu. Allow for two nights on the Sukau Kinabatangan river cruise. Stay in a traditional Rungus tribal longhouse. Finally, get outdoors on a three-day climb of Mt. Kinabalu or a five-day trek to Crocker Range or Maliau Basin.
~ Jessica Peters, the whl.travel local partner in Borneo, Malaysia

A harvest of shea to be used for shea butter in Ghana. Photo courtesy of M&J Travel and Tours

Ghana

Average length of stay: 10-12 days.
Recommended length of stay: It’s not the quantity of time, but rather the quality of time that’s important. Seek the kinds of experiences that enable you learn more about the ways of life of ordinary people in Ghana.
How to travel slow in Ghana: Opt for homestay accommodation with a local family so you can get a feel for their daily activities or simply spend a few days. It’s all about doing very genuine things. Sample the farming life, try volunteering and take an interest in local livelihoods.
~ Marian Thompson, the whl.travel local partner in Ghana

A giant tortoise in the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Ecuador

Average length of stay: Most travellers spend at least a week in Ecuador.
Recommended length of stay: At least 14 days to really experience the important destinations.
How to travel slow in Ecuador: Experience all “four worlds” of Ecuador. Take a tour of Quito, the capital of the world, then head to the Galapagos Islands to learn about the place where the evolutionary theory was born. Then head back to the mainland to visit the Andes Mountains and the Amazon Rainforest.
~ Sebastian Sierra, the whl.travel local partner in Quito, Ecuador

Goree Island, one of Dakar's biggest tourist attractions.

Senegal

Average length of stay: Less than a week in Senegal and less than two days in the Dakar area.
Recommended length of stay: Exploring Senegal would require more than 15 days, but if you choose to zoom in on just one or two areas, then plan about four days per area.
How to travel slow in Senegal: For a real feel of Dakar, spend one night on Goree Island. Dedicate one full day to the markets, for they are so different one from another. Spend one day focused on cultural places and traditional arts, and one night making the most of Dakar nightlife. Take one day to visit Dakar’s surroundings, with an excursion to Pink Lake (Lac Rose), Turtles’ Village (Village des Tortues), Bandia Nature Reserve or Îles de la Madeleine Reserve.
~ Jérôme Kardos, the whl.travel local partner in Dakar, Senegal

Jumber Lezhava is a bicycle world traveller, a Guinness World Records holder and a UNESCO World Sportsman and Citizen

This unprecedented and challenging trip is led by none other than Jumber Lezhava, a bicycle world traveller, multiple Guinness World Record holder and UNESCO World Sportsman and Citizen. Lezhava has put together an ideal route for visiting cyclists. Time on tough roads is combined with visits to cultural and historic sites, and opportunities to meet the locals in isolated, mountainous villages.

The idea of this taxing but stimulating tour came from Mamuka Burduli, Director of Adventure Club Jomardi, the whl.travel local connection in Tbilisi. “It is our pleasure that the tour has such a prominent leader as Mr Jumber Lezhava. We visit the most beautiful areas of Georgia and experience adventure at the same time.”

“The tour is an amazing initiative,” says Lezhava. “The positive side effects of such tours are more plentiful than the direct effects: they raise productivity and self-awareness in people and, of course, advocate a healthy lifestyle. During the bicycle race from Gudauri to Tbilisi in May 2010, for example, many youngsters were able to overcome difficulties. Our new itinerary can be compared to world races in its level of difficulty.”

A map of the 12-day bike route through Georgia's high passes

From the Valley to the Northern Mountains

The route begins in the Kakheti Region, cradle of Georgian wine. It moves move Tbilisi, the country’s capital city, to the Tsiv-Gombori Mountain Range (part of Greater Caucasus Mountain Range) in the southeast of the region and then on to the Alazani Valley, amidst the neatly cultivated vines and valleys around Telavi.

Turning to the north, the trip heads up toward the Tusheti Historic Area Historic Area. Here, the roads becomes more of a trial, especially the passage from Alvani to Omalo, which meanders through steep mountains, diverse climates and landscapes. The Abano Pass (2850m) is the highest point of the passage; breathtaking views open up above the clouds. Deep within Tusheti, well-preserved medieval fortresses and towers await in the villages of Omalo and Dartlo.

Across the Northern Mountains

While these isolated communities – rich in monument and cradled by mountain – often leave their beholders speechless, there’s still much more to behold to the west and further within Khevsureti Province, reached via Girevi and the Atsunda Pass (3400m).

In Shatili, residential buildings are connected to the towers and constitute a chain of fortifications. They belong to the medieval and early modern periods of Georgia.

The Khevsuretian villages of Ardoti and Mutso are of special interest for their well-preserved medieval dwellings. Equally as impressive are the ancient towers of historic highland Shatili, proudly overlooking the northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus. The backdrop of the Arghuni Gorge makes the site all the more stunning.

Back Down into the Valleys and Gorges

From Shatili, the bikers pedal south, up and over the Datvijvari Pass (2677m), beautifully carpeted with alpine meadows that give way to other picturesque sites: the Aragvi Gorge and Zhinvali Reservoir. After the stern mountains of Tusheti and Khevsureti, the sky-blue waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir have a tranquillizing effect.

The next challenge is the Sabadura Pass, from which the road loses elevation, paralleling the Mtkvari River through the beautiful Sabadura Forest and all the way to the ancient capital of Mtskheta, which has been declared a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site. Noteworthy Mtskheta landmarks include Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery, the latter at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

Mutso Village in Georgia's Khevsureti Province has preserved medieval dwellings and ancient buildings

From Mtskheta, the route passes through Dzegvi village and Gori to the Dzama Valley and then through the Gujareti Gorge to Timotesubani in Borjomi Gorge, where the nature is greener and less rugged.

Up to the Mountains of the South

It’s time to climb again. Via Mitarbi, bikers push up to the Bakuriani ski resort (1700m), an area that boasts mineral springs and coniferous forests with extraordinary biodiversity.

There’s still more uphill to go. From Bakuriani, the tour heads over the Tskhratskaro Pass (2454m), reaching Akhalkalaki in south-central Georgia for a visit to the 12th-century Vardzia Cave City. Vardzia has rock-hewn parlours, chapels, kitchens and refectories and offers stunning views of the Mtkvari.

Ahead lies another challenging pass; biking through Aspindza, Akhaltsikhe and Adigeni, cyclists reach the Goderdzi Pass (2025m). The breathtaking views make the difficult road well worth tackling.

Mamuka Burduli, Director of Adventure Club Jomardi, bikes in the Kakheti Region of Georgia

Coasting Down to the Coast

The route ends in the beautiful coastal city of Batumi, where bikers triumphantly kick back in the soothing seaside breezes, balm to the soul after the rocky mountains and stern fortresses of the higher elevations. Of course, in Batumi there is one more fortress waiting: the Gonio.

There, successful finishers might agree with Jumber Lezhava, who has travelled by bike in 238 countries and still feels so strongly about the quality of this tour. “Looking back, the highest pass I have crossed was at 4500m elevation, while going from La Paz to Chile,” reflects Lezhava. “I have crossed some 18 to 20 passes of 4000m high. When you go biking in Georgia, you notice that our roads are narrower than the ones you find elsewhere in the world. There are many narrow lanes and short distances here so, therefore, the nature is more beautiful and diverse, although the infrastructure is poor. But as the healthy lifestyle is actively being introduced in Georgia, special roads for bikers are being opened: we have one such a road in Batumi. This, together with some tendencies of working according to ecological norms, helps [us to advocate] biking as an important [foundation for a] healthy lifestyle.”

Contact Adventure Club Jomardi, your whl.travel local connection in Tibilisi and the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia for more about adventure travel in Georgia, not to mention accommodation, tours, activities and local hints about the country.

Tbilisi, Georgia

The Georgian city of Tbilisi, one of Eurasia’s most important social, cultural and industrial centres, is located in the Southern Caucasus Mountains. Its many nationalities and religions live peacefully side by side, creating a mix of histories, cultures, architectures, local practices and cuisines that is instantly appealing.

The Old Tbilisi district of Tbilisi, Georgia, is famed for its Sulphur Baths, traditional houses with wooden balconies and the Narikala Fortress towering over it

Ia Kverghelidze, your whl.travel local connection in Tbilisi, here lifts the lid on her hometown, showcasing its best attributes and highlighting the clues that connect modern Tbilisi with its well-preserved past.

Day Trip

Head for the Old Tbilisi district – a must-see! Start with a trip to the Sulphur Baths (Abanotubani), which Tbilisi was named after back in the fifth century. Hike over to the Narikala Fortress and enjoy the views of Tbilisi from different vantage points. From here you can look directly onto Tbilisi Holy Trinity Cathedral, the largest cathedral in the Caucasus.

The Old Tbilisi area is particularly special in the way it unites religions in one area. Georgian Orthodox and Armenian Gregorian churches, as well as Turkish mosques can all be found not far from the Sulphur Baths. Walk down cobbled Leselidze Street and you will come across the Jewish Synagogue; down another small lane is the colourful Roman Catholic Church. Other interesting holy sites are the Metekhi Church with its statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (founder of Tbilisi) and Sioni Cathedral.

While visiting the area, do not forget to check out the narrow streets lined with 19th-century wooden houses. The wooden balconies are colourful and ornately carved and the façades have been preserved in their original state. In old times, several families would live together in one house; this spirit of camaraderie and close-knit sense of community continues today.

If you are interested in art, Shardeni Street in Old Tbilisi offers some interesting galleries, as well as cosy and fashionable cafés. Bustling Rustaveli Avenue also has a variety of art galleries and cafés. A Tbilisi city tour can organise a four-hour sightseeing trip which takes in the most interesting sights of the city.

Only in the Old Tbilisi area of Tbilisi, Georgia, will one find the unique Sulphur Baths, a Turkish Mosque and beautiful 19th-century house

During hot summer days, a short getaway to the Tbilisi Botanical Garden, Mtatsminda Park and Turquoise Pond can be refreshing. If you go to Turquoise Pond, be sure to visit the Tbilisi Ethnographical Museum, an open-air museum that displays houses from different parts of Georgia, a small country whose regions nevertheless differ greatly.

For more handy information on places to see in Tbilisi, see our Tbilisi Destination Guide.

Shopping

When in Tbilisi, visitors will undoubtedly hit the shops to buy souvenirs. For great local gifts, go to Dry Bridge Art Market, where some interesting artefacts can be found among the many handmade products. Additionally, the Gallery of Caucasian Carpets in Old Tbilisi is always worth a visit – a mysterious world in which each carpet has a story to tell! The Tbilisi shopping page contains useful information about shops in Tbilisi.

Restaurant

To get acquainted with the local cuisine, try some Tbilisi restaurants like the phenomenal Bread House, where you can watch how traditional Georgian bread is baked in a special clay pot called a ‘tone.’ You can even give it a try yourself! The restaurant is conveniently located in the Old Tbilisi area, not far from the Sulphur Baths, and is guaranteed to leave a long-lasting taste impression.

Other restaurants of note include In The Shadow of Metekhi (on Ketevan Tsamebuli Avenue) and Tsiskvili (on the right bank of the Mtkvari River). Both promise traditional Georgian meals, live music, and traditional Georgian songs and dances. For traditional Georgian meals delivered to your door, Shemoikhede Genatsvale (which literally means ‘have a look in, dear’), with branches throughout the city, is the best place for takeout.

At the Bread House restaurant of Tbilisi, Georgia, travellers watch how traditional bread is baked in a special clay vessel called a ‘tone,’ which can also be used to roast pork and chicken

Local Treats

Tbilisi’s best local treat is its natural sulphur springs. These geothermal springs have a tranquilising and healing effect and are located in Abanotubani in the Old Tbilisi area.

Delicious edible local specialties – the gems of Georgian cuisine – are khachapuri (cheesecake), khinkali (meat wrapped in dough), mtsvadi (barbecue) and hot tonis puri (bread baked in a clay pot). The main characteristics of Georgian cuisine, the tradition of the Georgian feast and traditional dishes can be seen on our restaurant page.

Night Out

If you enjoy popular music, go to Two Side Party-Club. Located in Bambis Rigi Street, in the Old Tbilisi area, the club’s live music performances include famous Georgian singers, as well as DJs and live bands. Its eclectic design will definitely catch your eye!

Near the Tbilisi Philharmonic Hall, stroll down Akhvlediani Street (formerly Perovskaya), where the Dublin Irish Pub and Buffalo Bills await you with American jazz-rock, English rock and European pop. If you are in the mood for a bit of singing yourself, try Tan Tsaige Art Café Shop in Kiacheli Street, which is famous for its karaoke parties. The name of the art café shop means ‘take it with you’ and they are true to their word – visitors can buy whatever takes their fancy!

If you are keen on clubbing, head under Baratashvili Bridge on the banks of the Mtkvari to Night Office, where laser shows and well-known DJs guarantee an unforgettable night of entertainment. Check our restaurants in Tbilisi page for more ideas.

For more information about Tbilisi, including accommodation, tours and activities, photos and lots more insider tips, contact your whl.travel local connection: Adventure Club Jomardi at www.travel-tbilisi.com.

This is a two-part article. Part one presented the unique qualities of Svaneti, while part two, below, details the wonders of Tusheti.

In the traditional Tushetian game of 'Distance Jumping', people jump over a felt cloak. Jump the farthest and the cloak is your prize.

A Remote Region of Warm People

Spread between 1,700 and 2,400 metres of altitude, Tusheti is considered the most remote area of Georgia. Unlike Svaneti – another historic region characterised by towers – Tusheti is of such pristine and endemic nature that it is one of the Protected Areas of Georgia and inhabited only during the summer.

Cultural heritage runs deep here, the roots felt when communicating with locals and taking part in their festivals and traditional practices. One of the major annual events is the end-of-September cattle drive from Tusheti to the lowlands of the Kakheti Region. Enjoy a unique opportunity to join the shepherds and listen to their stories while sharing a meal by the fire at night.

Tushetian people have also preserved many ancient games like ‘Bow and Arrow’, ‘Distance Jumping’, ‘Playing with the Ball’, ‘Pushing’, the aims of which were to develop flexibility, strength, dexterity and speed in youth. The time-honoured names of these games are so old that non-Tushetian Georgians have a hard time remembering them.

In Tusheti, unlike Svaneti, the polyphonic songs are performed mainly by women

The Sun Rises When a Guest Comes

Tushetian hospitality is taken seriously, as revealed by phrases like ‘the sun rises when a guest comes; a cloud appears when the guest leaves’. Tushetians are genuinely ready to welcome guests with the best food they have, entertain them by teaching their games and even reward them with prizes if they win. The pleasure of being a guest at a Tushetian table is both memorable and utterly unique: Tushetian people brew their own beer, called aludi, make their own khachapuri, called kotori (wheat bread filled with mixture of curds and boiled butter), and prepare their own Gouda cheese (made from sheep’s milk).

Folk arts, crafts and practices are also alive and well in Tusheti. Women are famous for their artisanal work, like traditional knitted products that use natural material and colours. The practice of making thick felt is also preserved. Similar to Svan songs, Tushetian music is polyphonic, although performed mainly by women and accompanied by accordion and Georgian panduri.

The Keselo Fortress in Upper Omalo provides a glimpse of the Tushetian lifestyle in the 17th century

Tushetian towers are wider than the Svanetian ones and built for habitation. Today most of them are locked and unoccupied, most people having moved to two-storey wooden houses. They are however sights to behold in villages like Dartlo, Shenako and Diklo. Their stern and strict appearance makes them seem like night watchers, sentinels protecting the local landscape. One tower-ringed fortress museum near Keselo Fortress casts excellent light on the way Tushetian people used to live.

An exploration of remote Tusheti, with its lone towers and hospitable locals, really puts you in touch with the local community and nature. For the adventurous, another factor to keep in mind is that a getaway to the Tushetian Mountains is best done on horseback. Start in the village Omalo and then head off in the saddle to breathtaking views and unforgettable local hospitality – local meals, Tusheti guesthouses and homestays, and other elements of this land where time has stood still.

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Ia Kverghelidze is the whl.travel local connection in Georgia, where Ia and her team at Adventure Club Jomardi connect travellers to authentic experiences throughout the country. For travel information, or to book Georgia hotels or Georgia tours, contact Ia and her team!

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This is a two-part article. Part one, below, presents the unique qualities of Svaneti, while part two, details the wonders of Tusheti.

Ushguli is the highest village in Europe, towered over by Mt. Shkhara, the highest peak of the Georgian Caucasus Mountains

The Villages of Svaneti

Svaneti is Georgia’s remote northern province, a land of neatly cultivated cornfields, vast meadows and tiny villages of houses huddled beneath ancient towers. Museums and churches are protected as important monuments and everything takes place against the soaring backdrop of the Greater Caucasus Mountains.

In each of these villages, people live at altitudes of up to 2,200 meters, heads of families sit in special traditional chairs, death is greeted by song and every activity adds another layer to the incredible depth of culture on display. Latali stands out above many other villages with its 24 churches, although Ipari, Adishi, Lagurki and others boast many as well. In these Svaneti churches, ancient icons are illuminated with gold and doors are beautifully ornamented with silver. The antiquity of these churches is testament to the Svan people’s long-standing settlement of this mountainous region; the oldest churches belong to the 10th century.

One Svan tradition preserved to this day is a special chair in which only the head of family can sit

While this group of villages is notable for architecture, others are distinguished by their setting. The loftiest of them all – the jewel in the crown of Svaneti villages – is the World Heritage Site of Ushguli. Located between 2,086 and 2,200 metres above sea level, Ushguli is the highest village in Europe, its four Svan communities (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murqmeli) nestled into the foothills of Mt. Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak (5,200m). Traditional Svaneti village towers, wild natural surroundings and, of course, famously hospitable people enliven this area, often called an ‘open-air museum’.

Equally breathtaking is the high-elevation village of Becho, located in the shadow of the rocky outcrop of Mt. Ushba (4,710m). Isolated amongst towering mountainous peaks, the nearby ancient settlement of Mazeri also adds to the area’s overall character.

Khoshalader – Greetings from the Svan

The severity of their surroundings has influenced Svan character; they are serious and reserved, but also faithful and extremely welcoming. Like locals, though, visitors should always greet passers-by with a khoshalader, the Svanetian dialect for ‘may victory be with you’. Not only is it a great way to break the ice, but the conversation it starts could continue into a meal, during which, true to their nature, Svans may take offence if you do not sample every dish on the table. But how could you resist local Svanetian specialties like kubdari (bread filled with meat) and tchvishdari (cheese and maize mixed and baked)?

Traditional architecture is yet another standout cultural quality of the Svan, typified by the traditional village towers built for defence against northern tribes and avalanches. Each Svan family usually has its own tower. Strategically disposed in rows, they provided safe retreat for everyone who climbed a rope stair, which could then be pulled up behind them. The narrow, five-storey structures also proved to be indispensable during heavy snowfalls. The oldest Svanetian towers date from the 9th century AD.

Typical Svan houses, called machubi, are still found throughout the region. The first floor of a machubi was used as an animal barn and the central fireplace was considered sacred. Although they could be seen as ghosts from the past, these houses exude a special charm today.

Svans greet history, battle, victory and death through local songs rich in polyphony

Traditional culture also thrives in other ways. No one should miss a chance to hear the local polyphonic folk songs or take part in a perkhuli, a dance where everyone joins hands and forms a circle. Svan men also proudly wear their warm hats, acknowledged throughout Georgia as symbols of Svaneti.

Svaneti is a paradise for anyone yearning to learn more about the local culture by being immersed in it. After all, a visit to Svaneti really is most memorable when staying with local families and sharing in the preparation and eating of their meals. There’s a good selection of guesthouses and homestays in Ushguli for anyone choosing to overnight in the highest village in Europe. Otherwise, accommodation in Mestia, the cultural and religious centre of Svaneti, will not be a problem – there are guesthouses and hotels to meet all needs.

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Ia Kverghelidze is the whl.travel local connection in Georgia, where Ia and her team at Adventure Club Jomardi connect travellers to authentic experiences throughout the country. For travel information, or to book Georgia hotels or Georgia tours, contact Ia and her team!

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