Visiting a rainforest is a unique nature experience. During the day, these unique biomes burst with a busy buzz and bright flashes of colour. At night, the air comes alive with the shrieks and calls of the forest’s many nocturnal creatures. Cicadas drone, bats flap beneath the canopy, a monkey howls in the distance.

Amidst all this natural beauty, it’s important to tread lightly. Remember that rainforests today cover just six percent of the earth, yet they are home to an estimated 40 to 75 percent of all the world’s plants and animals, including many still just being discovered. Sadly, despite efforts to protect them, many habitats are continue to be endangered by logging and overdevelopment.

The tropical rainforest habitat is home to between 40 to 75 percent of the world’s plants and animals. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Tatters

Well-planned ecotourism is one key to rainforests’ continued survival. It places value on preservation of nature as a commercial resource. Reputable tour outfits offer employment opportunities for locals as leaders and wildlife guides, enabling them to earn their money through sustainable and environmentally responsible forms of income. Travellers’ passion for traditional culture encourages locals to continue ancient forest-friendly practices.

Before your next escape to the rainforest, do some research in advance. The right tour operator and a great local guide can help you spot wildlife and make the most of any adventure.

Get Up Close to the Real Rainforest in Corcovado, Costa Rica

Away from the crowds of much-visited Monteverde, another sort of park awaits visitors in Costa Rica. National Geographic once labelled Corcovado National Park as “the most biologically intense place on earth,” and you’d be hard pressed to prove them wrong. Accessible via Puerto Jimenez along the Osa Penninsula, the  425-square-kilometre park is one of the last places to spot jaguars in Central America. It is also home to endangered species such as the Baird’s tapir, Harpy eagle, ocelots and more. Staying overnight in the park is strongly recommended, possible in a basic, budget and rustic eco-lodge or one of several ranger stations.

The Bolaven Plateau in the Champasak Province of southern Laos is known for its many scenic waterfalls. Photo courtesy of Miranda Siu

Climb High in the Champasak Province of Laos

Well known for its collection of ancient Khmer ruins, Champasak Province of southern Laos contains a wealth of natural thrills in the form of beautiful jungles and raging waterfalls. Wildlife enthusiasts can try to spot rare and endangered species like yellow-cheeked gibbons, Asian elephants and Irrawaddy dolphins, while other adventures await thrill seekers who head high above the treetops. Two- and three-day zip line treks allow travellers to unleash their inner Tarzan in the canopy of this semi-evergreen forest.

Become Better Acquainted with the Jungle in Borneo

The tropical island of Borneo is home to some of the world’s oldest rainforest. As a nature lover’s paradise, it is also one of the last natural habitats for endangered animals such as the Bornean orangutan, Clouded leopard and several native bat species. Guided trips can be booked from cities such as Kota Kinabalu or Sandakan on the Malaysian side, or Banjarmasin on the Indonesia side.  In addition to being thrilling, night-time jungle treks are probably the best way to spot nocturnal wildlife.

Encounter a City Lost in the Jungles of Colombia

The dense jungles that constitute Colombia’s Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Mountains are the historic domain of the early Tayrona civilisation. Among the ancient chiefdom’s best known archaeological sites is Ciudad Perdida (the “Lost City”), accessible via a six-day guided trek through a dense tropical forest. Hikers depart from Santa Marta, the city along Colombia’s Caribbean coast. The trek includes lots of opportunities to learn about the area’s indigenous people – descendants of the Tayrona – and plenty of time for spotting wildlife such as tapirs, deer and endemic hummingbirds.

Observe Life in the Amazing Amazon of Brazil

Capital of the Brazilian state of Amazonas, the city of Manaus is a popular point of departure for ecotourists visiting the Amazon region.  From this gateway city, visitors can easily arrange regional cruises that visit remote communities along the Amazon River or schedule boat transfers to jungle lodges and resorts with river-view bungalows. The Brazilian Amazon famously encompasses 33 percent of all the world’s surviving tropical rainforests and its biodiversity is unparalleled. One in five of the world’s fish species is found in its waters, while the jungle itself boasts 2.5 million recorded insect species and is home to a wide collection of endangered animals like spider monkeys, jaguars and poison dart frogs. Enjoy the best of the river and the surrounding rainforest.

The port city of Manaus, Brazil, is a gateway to the incredible Amazon region. Photo by Rodolpho Emanuel

Revel in the Natural Beauty of Rwanda’s Nyungwe Forest

Extending for over 1,000 kilometres, Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park is the largest protected area of high-altitude montane rainforest in Africa. Nestled in the heart of one of the continent’s most biodiverse regions – the Albertine Rift – Nyungwe boasts an exotic collection of rare orchids and endemic birds, as well as a large concentration of primates. Anyone looking to track chimps, however, will need to spend some time here. For the best chance at sighting mankind’s closest relative, consider booking a guided trip in the forests of Nyungwe.

To learn more about about jungle adventures on The Travel Word, read about travellers’ hiking and trekking experiences in some of the planet’s most exciting jungles.

Kyabobo (pronounced CHAY-a-bobo) may not be easy to reach, via rough roads from either the north or the south, but travellers note it is well worth the effort. Get there and you will be rewarded: chances are that you won’t cross paths with another tourist the entire time.

In Ghana, Kyabobo National Park is set against the unmistakable twin peaks knowns locally as the Breast Mountains. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

Covering New Terrain

Kyabobo is Ghana’s newest national park, stretching over 360 square kilometres and contiguous with Fazao National Park, just across the border in Togo. Seen from a distance, Kyabobo’s Breast Mountains, so named for the distinctive shape of two adjacent hills, are at its front door. The rest of the park is surrounded by dry plains that rise into hilly terrain covered in semi-deciduous forest.

Nkwanta is the nearest town and the gateway to Kyabobo. About four kilometres from the park headquarters, it is on the main north-south road running from the Volta region to northern Ghana in the area between Lake Volta and Togo. Since Kyabobo is really the only tourist draw in the area and well off Ghana’s tourist circuits, not many travellers make it Nkwanta. There are a couple of good reasons why, the main being how long and dusty the road is. By public transport, it can take two days to reach Nkwanta from Tamale with at least one transfer. There is also direct transportation from Accra that takes around eight hours.

Given the challenges of getting to Kyabobo, it is well worth staying a few days. Fortunately there are some good options for accommodation in the area. The Gateway and Kilimanjaro are good hotels in Nkwanta. At the park headquarters there are two nicely equipped guesthouses, each with a kitchen and bathroom, and camping sites. There are a number of other camps within the park, including a platform on top of a mountain ridge overlooking the shrine of the village of Kue.

A bridged trailhead leads the way into Ghana's Kyabobo National Park and toward a waterfall. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

Nature and Culture in Kyabobo

Everyone who enjoys the outdoors will find something exciting at Kyabobo, especially the network of trails for hiking, waterfalls to visit, biking, camping, canoeing, wildlife viewing and inner tubing on the Kue River. Hiking is the best way to explore the park. While there are some great trails only a couple of hours long or day hikes to waterfalls, others span the entire park and can take several days to complete involving some solitary camping. To get a good feel for the park, try the four-hour round-trip trek to Laboum Falls. You can extend it with another hour or two of hiking to the upper falls.

During any activity, animals to be spotted in the park include elephants, leopards, buffalo, waterbuck and several primate species. Unfortunately, due to the density of the forest and the steep hilly terrain, not everyone will be lucky enough to spy much large wildlife, although there are smaller more visible species bushbuck and duikers. You can also count on seeing butterflies and birds. Recent park surveys indicate the presence of at least 500 species of butterflies and 235 birds.

The symbol for the park is the rock hyrax, which is a large and very common rodent in Ghana, sometimes called a grass cutter. Roadside merchants often sell them… in the form of kabobs. In the wild, they are often seen on rocky outcroppings within the park.

For culture buffs, surrounding the park are a number of small communities called the Hanging Villages. They are said to resemble villages in the Himalayas that hug the sides of the mountains. Some even have shrines and hikes around the villages that guests can experience after visiting and drinking local gin with the chief. They’re accessible on foot or by bicycle. Travellers can even enjoy settling into village life with an overnight homestay.

A staff guide from the Wildlife Division of Ghana in Kyabobo National Park demonstrates how a leaf can be used as a cup to drink water. Photo courtesy of Leif Ryman

An Ecotourism Future

The park represents a very interesting attempt to balance the goals of environmental protection, ecotourism and the preservation of endangered communities. It is an ongoing experiment with high stakes – the survival of the area’s natural and human environment.

Organisation at Kyabobo is still in its early stages, however, so be patient and persistent when seeking information. Right now, a new visitors’ area definitely serves as an essential part of the learning experience – you can at least count on finding brochures at the park entrance – and the proceeds help the surrounding communities.

Additionally, for the host communities, ecotourism means “improved livelihood activities” or jobs as guides, cooks and craftspeople. The income generated from the park is used for local development projects, like bringing electricity to nearby communities and providing materials for the construction of schools and toilets.

If you are looking for an active vacation to a naturally beautiful and undiscovered part of Ghana, and if you are interested in contributing to a vital and ongoing real-world learning experience, Kyabobo Park is well worth the dusty road trip it takes to get there and back.

In the beautiful region of Wayanad in Kerala, India, where dense jungle carpets the rolling mountains in the Western Ghats, lies a magical hidden gem. The quiet village of Thrikkaipetta in the heart of this breathtaking region is a beacon for community spirit and an inspiration for ethical tourism.

The ‘Bamboo Village’ of Thrikkaipetta, in the beautiful Wayanad region of Kerala, India. Photo courtesy of Kabani.org

Rural Wayanad’s delightful climate and rich biodiversity make it a vastly agricultural population (almost 50 percent of the inhabitants rely on farming for income). Like many places across the globe, farming here has been hit by financial strain due to declining market prices for crops. This problem has resulted in devastating problems for the Wayanad farming community, and very sadly resulted in suicides.

The community here, proud of their land and culture, have created a cooperative that generates additional income for farmers, empowers local people through job creation and provides ethical tourism opportunities.

Thrikkaipetta’s Bamboo Village was initiated by local people who are passionate about improving life for the community. It is a community-led bamboo nursery, using the resultant materials to create traditional crafts, food products, for environmental protection and as a tourism attraction. Visiting their bamboo workshop is like stepping into Santa’s grotto! It is incredible to see so many local people employed, busy creating a huge selection of products.

Many travellers are interested in helping the local farmers to plant rice in the fields. Photo courtesy of Kabani.org

As the Bamboo Village has gone from strength to strength, it became clear that the tourism offer here could be expanded and provide an even greater opportunity for additional income. Local responsible tourism campaigning NGO, Kabani, has partnered with the Bamboo Village’s management, Uravu, and the groups pulled together their expertise on agricultural life and how best develop a tourist infrastructure that would offer enriching tourist experiences and improve the lives of local people.

Today tourists from across the globe can come and enjoy the Bamboo Village’s ethical homestays. Visitors can enjoy a tranquil location with a friendly local family, feast on traditional home cooked food and fruits from their homestay’s plantation. Guests can also join an eye-opening village tour, learning about the diverse crops growing locally and participating in cultural exchange events.

A group of tribal artists demonstrate the traditional tribal art form 'Vattakali,' an intricate form of dance. Photo courtesy of Kabani.org

In addition to the unique learning experiences, guests can rest assured that 50 percent of the money paid for their cozy homestay is being reinvested into the community they have enjoyed getting to know. This money is helping to develop a community fund that provides crucial training for villagers (such as organic farming and healthy living education), youth projects and sustainable tourism development.

Blair Coburn from the UK recently stayed with a family in the Bamboo Village. “The opportunity to stay with a local family was a privilege. It was fantastic to know that my stay not only helped my wonderful hosts, but was helping to support the wider community through their training and development fund. I particularly enjoyed getting to shop for unique bamboo products, they made wonderful gifts to take home, and at the same time buying them has directly helped the women who made them.”

Take time for personal reflection and meditation in the peace-filled mountain paths surrounding Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

As an apparition site of the Virgin Mary that is well recognised by Catholics worldwide, Medjugorje is a Bosnian town with deep spiritual poignancy. Pilgrims and soul-searchers come from far and wide to partake in the sanctity of the place, get in touch with visionaries and simply enjoy the grace-filled ambiance. I recommend a minimum of three days in Medjugorje, as the longer you stay the more you can make time for personal prayer, reflection and religious activities in the community.

To start out, follow the path up Apparition Hill where the young visionaries first encountered Our Lady.  As you climb, you can see the inspired artistry of the bronze plaques depicting each mystery of the rosary. If climbing Mount Krizevac is too arduous, there is also a gentler path with the Stations of the Cross around the Risen Christ statue.

Visitors congregate at Cross Mountain, one of the many spiritual draws to the apparition town of Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

In addition, there is a daily International Mass with the Rosary and Healing Prayers, and Veneration of the Cross and Adoration in the evenings. Daily Holy Masses are made in several languages. Frequent talks by local Franciscan priests of the Medjugorje parish are also held in the blessed John Paul II Hall and there is daily adoration of the Blessed Sacrament each afternoon in the Adoration chapel.

Day trips

Before leaving Medjugorje, visit the surroundings full of natural beauty and historical interests. The gem of the region is the famous Waterfalls of Kravice, where in summertime you can swim with the locals or just enjoy the scenery while having a meal or cup of coffee at the nearby restaurant.

For a bit of history, visit the old city of Mostar with its historic bridge rebuilt across the beautiful Neretva River. The bridge and the area around it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander through the narrow streets of the old town filled with souvenir shops, restaurants and historic buildings.

The shimmering waterfalls of Kravice make a great day trip into the beautiful Bosnian countryside surrounding Medjugorje. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

Even closer, in Ljubuski (15 minutes’ drive of Medjugorje), you will find the parish church of St. Anthony, where you can take in the ancients relics of the first Franciscan priests in this area. Then visit ”The Mother” gallery with its splendid portraits and statues.

Not everyone realizes that the town of Medjugorje is also in close proximity to fantastic Balkan cities. A one-day excursion could take you to Sarajevo (the capital of Bosnia) or a four-day trip could cover Dubrovnik and Split in Croatia. If you would like to combine a pilgrimage with some relaxation by the beach, try a day trip to the breathtaking Makarska Riviera along the Adriatic coast.

Shopping

Purchase rosaries, statues or books at different local souvenir and handcrafts shops. You will find interesting wooden crafts of Jesus and Mary, as well as angels and crucifixes hand-carved from Medjugorje stones. Medjugorje souvenirs can be blessed by a priest if you bring them to evening prayer at St. James Church.

Connecting with local priests in Medjugorje, Bosnia, is one of the biggest treats in this spiritual place. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

Restaurants

At mealtime there is a good choice of cafés and restaurants in Medjugorje that serve local cuisine.

Galileo Restaurant is known for its exclusive fish delicacies, and at Columbo Restaurant you will find the best choice of Italian cuisine and other International dishes. Have a meal at Voktor’s Restaurant for the kinds of homemade local specialties that keep people coming back for more.

Local Treats

The biggest treat in Medjugorje is the peaceful time for prayer in such inspired surroundings. Just walk through the fields to the Blue Cross or Apparition Hill. If you stay longer, take time to be a part of Medjugorje’s local community. Meet the families while attending Holy Mass, stop for casual conversation with locals or simply take your quiet time and space for personal reflection.

Catch an outside Mass celebration in Medjugorje, Bosnia. Photo courtesy of Zana R-Bilal

Night Out

To liven things up with locals, visit The Garden House, where local musicians play traditional instruments every Friday night. During the evenings, most cafés and restaurants are open. Try a glass of warm red wine or tea while sitting on one of their terraces and enjoying the great people-watching views of the streets from above. You will be able to feel the peaceful yet joyful vibe of quiet little Medjugorje.

Planning a trip to Medjugorje and the Balkan region? Be sure to contact Zana and the other local travel experts at Medjugorje Tours and Travel, the whl.travel local connection in Medjugorje, Bosnia and Herzegovina.

“Almost there!” he bellows down the trail at us. He’s smiling and doesn’t seem at all winded by the last few hours of trudging through thick vegetation and brush, during which he expertly pointed out a slithering snake, sweet-smelling lemongrass and a weird, edible nut. The trail we’ve been following – when there has actually been sign of a trail – has recently grown wider into a dirt road, hopefully an indication we’re almost to the top of the mountain and the local village where we will spend the night.

A group of 12 trekkers marches toward a hill-tribe village in northern Thailand. Photo courtesy of Gina Douglas

I hear a low rumbling noise that gets louder and louder until a motorcycle comes roaring up the trail carrying two Thai boys who look about 15. They weave around me and stop when they get to Ti, who greets them joyfully. After a minute, the motorcycle takes off again and I notice bags of what looks like groceries strapped to its back.

“Think that’s our dinner?” jokes my fiancé, who has joined me on this adventure.

“The villagers drive motorcycles up and down the mountain?” is my surprised response. I’m aware they need to get around; I just assumed it was rare and via foot or animal. I’m more curious than ever to see this mountain-top village. We round a few more bends and arrive.

The village is more massive than I expected. Faded wood huts with thatched roofs, most on stilts, dot the landscape. As I walk around I notice a cluster of animals; puppies, pigs, chickens and roosters all abuzz amongst the overgrown grass and dirt paths winding between the huts. Joining them are a dozen young children, running around laughing, the setting sun dancing off their eyes as it creates a hazy glow over the mountains in the distance.

With glowing mountain views like this one, a northern Thailand trekking experience can seem staged for tourists. But the wild landscapes were here long before the treks. Photo courtesy of Gina Douglas

The children are barefoot, but look well fed and dressed. Another motorcycle whizzes by and the children chase it, giggling. It stops next to an empty lot where a low-slung volleyball net is strung and teenage boys, their western-looking clothes rustling lightly in the low breeze, are hitting a soccer ball over it with their feet. I wonder if they’re wearing hand-me-downs from visitors or if the money from tours actually covers the costs of such clothes.

I look around at the motorcycles, the well-dressed children and the minimalist huts and find myself wondering if it’s all an act. Do they head back down the mountain after we’re all asleep? Is this just a well-produced illusion for tourists? Then I notice a woman hanging up laundry and I pass what looks like a bare-bones general store. This definitely is a lived-in – and by all appearances happy – village.

Later, after the sun has set and a chill sets in, Ti regales us with stories. We’re huddled around a blazing bonfire adjacent to a long room we trekkers will be sleeping in. The bonfire is the only heat we’re going to have the luxury of experiencing tonight.

21st-century transport is set against a traditional wood hut, reminding us that this is a very real village and not a tourist display. Photo courtesy of Gina Douglas

A local woman, dressed in a long gold and red robe, enters our bonfire circle from the darkness beyond the hut (there is no electricity here). I look at her in surprise. Her outfit is so different from the ones I saw on the playing children and teenagers earlier this evening. She murmurs something in Ti’s ear and he nods before turning to us.

“Anyone want a Thai massage?” he asks. “200 baht,” which is roughly US$6.50.

My fiancé and I – and six other trekkers – excitedly raise our hands.

We head into the long room and climb onto our mosquito net–covered cots. Teenage girls, also dressed in robes, join us and begin massaging us over our clothing. It was relaxing, although these girls aren’t anywhere close to being professional masseuses. It’s just another useful (and clever) way for them to make some money through tourism.

Trekking in northern Thailand is a great way to enjoy the local environment's natural wonders while benefitting local villages along the way. Photo courtesy of Gina Douglas

As we leave the village the next morning, passing by a one-room schoolhouse, it is clear this is every bit an authentic mountaintop village – just not exactly what I expected. The villagers appear to have found a way to embrace the 21st century and make a living without having to leave their serene home up here where the air is crisp. From the trekkers they get what is most likely much-needed income and, in turn, trekkers such as myself get to share their beautiful mountains and home. The community’s peaceful existence is maintained through this low-impact form of village tourism, preserving the beauty of the river- and waterfall-filled environment, the habitat of wildlife such as the elephants I see along the way.

As I set off back down the mountain to where an afternoon of whitewater thrills on bamboo rafts awaits us, rows of bright green mountains fill the distance for miles and local children’s laughter follows me down the trail. To me, visiting this community is a remarkable experience, unlike any I’ve ever had. I hope it has helped to protect the little village and the majesty of its surroundings.

To experience overnight treks to the hill-tribe villages of northern Thailand, contact the whl.travel local connection in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

The Aboriginal sacred site of Uluru – also known as Ayers Rock – is one of Australia’s most recognizable natural icons. The time seems right to ponder over a question that has for decades been the subject of a much-heated debate: Should tourists be allowed to climb the rock or not? Respecting indigenous cultures and local traditions is at the core of the responsible tourism concept and it is the center of the controversy over Uluru.

Sunrise is a spectacular time to photograph Uluru, the traditional Aboriginal name for what many people still know as Ayers Rock in Australia's red centre. Photo courtesy of Ethan Gelber

Uluru, which is part of the UNESCO-listed Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park World Heritage Site – located 450 kilometers (280 miles) west of Alice Springs, in the state of the Northern Territory – is climbed by more than 100,000 people every year. The sandstone formation rises to 348 metres (1,142 feet) above sea level and measures 9.4 kilometres (5.8 miles) in circumference. Those who have been fortunate enough to visit the site say Uluru appears to change color depending on how light strikes it at different times of the day and year.

But the popular climb of the monolith has long enraged local Aboriginals, the Anangu people. Under Aboriginal law, they are responsible for protecting Uluru and its visitors. They say the site is sacred and have called for the climb to be banned since Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park was placed in their hands in 1985.

Although climbing is strongly discouraged, circumnavigating Uluru is possible by following a flat walk that hugs the vertical undulations of the rock. Photo courtesy of Ethan Gelber

The Anangu people believe that during the time when the world was being formed, the Uluru climb was the traditional route taken by ancestral men when they arrived at Uluru. Because of this spiritual significance, they prefer that – out of education and understanding – visitors respect their law and culture by not climbing.

Safety is also an issue. The path is about 1.6 kilometres long and takes about two hours to complete. Since it can be treacherous, the first part has a chain to hold on to. It is reported that 36 people have died and many more have been injured attempting the climb, something that worries traditional owners.

There are environmental concerns as well. Park officials say the climbing path has been worn down by the constant tread of tourists and erosion is changing the face of Uluru. The lack of toilets and garbage cans on top also means tourists leave behind waste that is affecting nearby waterholes.

Money Is the Matter

The park estimates that around 38 percent of visitors climb each year, down from 74 percent in 1990. Even so, tour operators in the region continue to offer the climb as the main attraction of the visit to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and they often do not inform clients of the cultural and spiritual significance of the place. The first time many tourists hear “Please don’t climb Uluru” is when they read their entry ticket.

The market demands it, people want to climb, and since there is no law against climbing Uluru/Ayers Rock, many companies continue to feature the same popular offerings: sunrise viewing, climb, sunset viewing.

Until now, the national park’s management has employed a strategy of visitor education to face this issue, with interpretive signs expressing the distress that climbing causes the local owners and asking that visitors participate in alternative activities. However, changes in attitudes and behaviors of visitors usually take place over the long term and sometimes it is necessary to apply more direct management techniques such as banning an activity to ensure the conservation of the natural attraction and ensure that tourists will show the necessary respect.

In 2009, the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Board of Management took the initiative in drafting a 10-year management plan recommending closure of the climb, highlighting that the activity is culturally insensitive. Although the measure did not have strong political support, climbing Uluru has its days counted anyway.

Under the terms of the lease the Anangu elders granted in 1985 to the National Parks Service, the right to climb expires in 2020, and the national park is currently recruiting a professional to oversee the closure of the climb. If the climb is permitted beyond this date, the lease would have to be renegotiated.

Some industry stakeholders argue that the prohibition could lead to reduced visitor numbers and that it would have serious financial implications for the Anangu, who receive 22.5 percent of all gate receipts and have sole rights to undertake commercial activity within the national park.

The surface of Uluru is marked by caverns, overhangs, rock piles, gullies, water holes and more, most of which are of such significance to Aboriginal teaching and lore that their meaning is left untold. Photo courtesy of Ethan Gelber

There are, however, several attractive alternative tours within the park with activities that do not upset the traditional owners. These include walking expeditions to explore rock formations and Aboriginal art sites around the base, escorted by local guides and an interpreter. Visitors learn about creation myths, bush foods, traditional didgeridoo-playing, dot-painting and spear-throwing.

A brochure available at the Cultural Center in the park carries an important message from the Anangu elders:

“That is a really important sacred thing that you are climbing . . . You shouldn’t climb. It is not the real thing about this place. The real thing is listening to everything. Listening and understanding everything. Why are we going to tell you to go away (and ask you not to climb)? So that you understand this . . . so that you understand, we are informing you: Don’t climb. And maybe that makes you a bit sad. But any way, that is what we have to say. We are obliged to say. And all the tourists will brighten up and say: ‘Oh, I see. This is the right way. This is the thing that is right.’ This is the proper way: No climbing.”

The port of Corfu Town, Greece, faces the Albanian coast, visible in the distance. The laid-back off-season is still one of deep blue skies and clear waters. Photo courtesy of Sandra Broedner

More people really should see this side of Corfu. After all, between bouts of heavy rain and thunderstorms, the off-season weather in Corfu is usually still surprisingly sunny and warm, the atmosphere has a mildness to it. It can be warm enough that many Corfiots continue swimming and bathing in the sea in the winter. (You may want to join them by the windmill in Garitsa in Corfu Town.

By January, the mimosas starts blooming, followed soon after by the almond trees. In February, vibrant Carnival festivities take place, with all kinds of costume parties in the streets. Before you know it, spring is here, and that’s something you also really shouldn’t miss. Spring in Corfu has its own set of wonders and charms, including more music to be found everywhere.

In the off-season, even Corfu Town slows down. It becomes easy to find a table along the elegant Liston arcade and no one complains if you decide to spend hours and hours reading your newspaper while slowly sipping a coffee or ouzo. In the narrow alleys of Corfu Town, you can enjoy the small family-run tavernas that have been serving lunch to the locals for generations. They usually cook only a few dishes of Corfu’s traditional cuisine – different each day – so even if you choose to eat regularly at the same place, you’ll have something new to enjoy each time.

Travelling slowly during the off-season in Corfu, Greece, you'll have beaches like Liapades Beach in west Corfu (and the winter sunshine!) almost all to yourself. Photo courtesy of Sandra Broedner

Remarkably, you have the beaches almost to yourself, free of crowds and tacky tourist activities. Off the beaches, Corfu’s lush nature is more enjoyable with less heat. A simple walk in the countryside will easily lift your spirits. Corfu is full of old footpaths and in some places the municipality has put up signs that make them easy to follow. You can also find footpath guidebooks with detailed maps and the Hikers Society of Corfu (phone 26610-39481) is happy to help you with information. Or why not try mountain biking? Corfu’s hilly landscape makes the island a paradise for mountain bikers.

Closer to home, many Corfiots own olive trees and harvest the olives in early winter, the ultimate local activity. If you’ve ever visited Corfu’s countryside, you may have seen the nets tidily folded up in the olive groves. During harvest, the nets are spread out under the olive trees and after the olives fall to the ground they are gathered and taken to be pressed. Ask around in the villages and you will see that you are more than welcome to join in and help out. You may even get a bottle of freshly pressed olive oil for your efforts.

Of course, throughout the off-season, certain high-season attractions are missing. There isn’t as wide a variety of restaurants and bars to choose from. Most resorts in Corfu that were full during the summer start closing down by mid October and don’t open again until May. Steer clear of them, especially since you will find you’re too far away from other amenities like supermarkets, banks and coffee shops, where you may want to meet friends on a rainy day.

In the traditional mid-winter olive harvest in Corfu, Greece, large nets are used to capture the falling olives. Extra hands are always needed, so join the fun! Photo courtesy of Flickr/shplendid

What’s left, though, is the local scene! You get to eat in those small taverns and coffee shops that have been around for decades and where you can experience the authentic Corfu. For lodging, look for apartment rentals near Corfu Town, Acharavi in the north, the area around Gouvia or even near a village. If you don’t mind living a bit remotely you may even consider housesitting for a few months. Many of the larger villas on the northeast coast need looking after during the winter. In exchange, you get a place to stay and sometimes even compensation for a bit of maintenance.

Planning to visit Corfu, Greece? Get in contact with the team at Corfu-Hotels.Travel, the whl.travel local connection, for expert advice all year round.

For a traveller on a tight schedule, this can be challenging. Time is such a precious commodity these days; we’ve been led to believe that if we don’t maximise our scant vacation time by hitting all the major tourist must-dos, we’ve somehow failed.

Slowly, take the time to learn about the ethnic tribes of Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

But travelling and living in Laos has taught me that slowing down adds richness to your experience – like seeing the world vividly in Technicolor. You begin to notice things and understand how they fit into a greater cultural narrative.

“Slow Travel” is a buzzword that is gaining popularity. It can mean a variety of different things, but is often used to describe a longer stay in one place rather than flitting from one spot to the next. What you experience is usually a deeper connection to a place, its culture and its people.

Sunset on the Mekong River as seen from Luang Prabang, Laos. Best enjoyed slowly. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

So if you’re planning a trip to Luang Prabang, I suggest you treat yourself with time. Experience this UNESCO World Heritage city through the lens of slow travel:

On your first day, do nothing

Crazy, I know. While most people scramble up Phousi Hill for the sunset (yes, it is nice), my favourite spot is at a bar on the Mekong River. The view is unobstructed and the sunset is equally, if not more, spectacular. Sit, relax with a drink and just do nothing. You’re in Laos!

Dried fish at the Phosy Market in Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Slow food

One key ingredient in Lao cuisine is patience. A delicious Lao dish begins with a trip to the morning market for fresh ingredients (check out Phosy market, where the locals go). No fancy equipment is involved in Lao cooking – just a mortar, pestle and good ol’ fashioned elbow grease. Fresh herbs and plenty of chilli are bashed to make mouthwatering marinades and dips. And a Lao table is never without a basket of sticky rice. The grains have to be washed several times and soaked overnight before they can be steamed.

Big smiles at Big Brother Mouse, a non-profit organisation that distributes Lao books to rural villages. Photo courtesy of Stanislas Fradelizi

Give back with your time

Started in 2006, Big Brother Mouse is a locally run organisation that publishes books and distributes them to villages. Not only can you sponsor a library, a book party or buy Lao books in the shop to take to villages, you can help out at their English language sessions. Eager locals, especially young adults, attend to practice their English conversation. It’s a great way to learn more about Laos and for Lao people to learn about your country. Sessions run daily; just drop in at either 9 a.m. or 5 p.m. You don’t need to bring anything (they have some books and maps), although pictures of your family or country would be interesting.

A Lao weaver proudly displays her silk textiles. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

One thread at a time

Laos boasts beautiful handicrafts. You can’t appreciate patience and time until you’ve seen an artisan working at his or her craft. In fact, it’s not uncommon to hear that a single handwoven textile with an intricate pattern has taken a month to complete. In Luang Prabang, while you can see the pieces being made, you can also try your own hand at creating one. Learn how to dye fabric naturally, weave, draw Hmong batiks, paint silk or make paper. Or, if you’re all thumbs, numerous shops sell locally made textiles and crafts.

An unhurried rural hill village just outside of Luang Prabang, Laos. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Experience village life

Less than an hour outside of town, you are out in rural countryside. Go trekking and stay in a village to experience the simple life, where even electricity is a luxury. Phone? Internet? Forget about it. Think of it as a detox from Facebook and all other distractions of the modern world. Experience what it’s like to grow and raise your own food, bathe at a tap, cook over an open fire and dine with a local family. After a long, refreshing day of walking, crawl into your sleeping bag, but prepare to wake when the rooster crows.

The early morning alms ceremony in Luang Prabang, Laos is an important Buddhist tradition that should be respected. Photo courtesy of Cindy Fan

Wake up early. Really early.

Every day at dawn, monks walk through town collecting alms from humble locals. The alms-giving ceremony is an important ritual in Luang Prabang. The sight of hundreds of monks clad in brilliant orange robes lined up to receive food is truly breathtaking. But the ceremony is in danger of becoming a tourist spectacle, with some people behaving badly to get that perfect photo. Be respectful: dress appropriately, maintain your distance and be quiet. Read the etiquette and guidelines for the alms-giving ceremony in Luang Prabang.

Thinking of travelling to Luang Prabang and around Laos? Plan your trip with Teamworkz, the whl.travel local partner in Laos.

The Transcarpathia region of southwest Ukraine is a unique area, a tourism pearl sometimes called "Little Switzerland." Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Tetyana

Today, this grand state beckons travellers to explore its intricate church architecture and delicate frescos, bustling cities and authentic rural villages, and gorgeous natural resources. Along the way, you will discover that there are plenty of cultural myths and stories, the kinds about unique local archetypal characters that will capture your imagination and keep you coming back for more local travel experiences in Ukraine.

Here are just three stories with which to whet your appetites.

The Babushkas of Ukraine’s Cities

Babushka (in Russian) or babusia (in Ukrainian), as Ukrainians call their elderly ladies, are an inevitable sight in any city or town in Ukraine, no matter where you go. Stroll along the cobbled sidewalks in Lviv and you will see them, chatting and singing folk songs in front of the impressive Opera Theatre. Hop on a train headed east and you will be greeted by their curious eyes and voices selling homegrown apples and freshly baked buns with jam or poppy seeds. Head further east and you will find them sitting on every street bench, letting the world pass by in the greenery of Kharkiv’s parks, or selling everything from sunflower seeds to flower bouquets in Donetsk.

Kyiv (Kiev) is the capital city of Ukraine. Photo courtesy of IloveUkraine/Marynka

The cultural phenomenon of babusia in Ukraine is directly tied to the country’s troubled history. The 20th century saw an epic tug of war waged between five empires parceling up the country, two world wars fought on Ukrainian territory, tragic famine and a repressive communist regime. Together, these afflictions laid waste to most of Ukraine’s men, leaving behind the now-familiar crowds of babushkas. It is the stories of these women that make Ukraine so different from other cities in Central Europe.

But there is much more to Ukraine’s cities. Charming Lviv will leave you with the smell of freshly ground coffee, the memory of cosy cobblestone streets in a World Heritage-listed town centre and the air of jazz and classical music. Kyiv, the capital city of Ukraine, has the ruthless bustle of a teenager, but also wide promenades and maple trees, the sparkling golden domes of St. Sophia Cathedral and painful insights at the National Chernobyl Museum. Further east and south, grandiose Tsars’ palaces pop up along the Black Sea shore, Tatar mosques call for prayer, and statues of Lenin and Karl Marx crowd the streets of like Donetsk and Odessa.

The Hutsul highlanders of Ukraine are an ethno-cultural that group that still uses ages-old traditional practices and wears traditional clothing for major celebrations. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Traditional Hutsul Highlanders

Far from the urban scapes of Ukraine’s cities are traditional rural villages dotting the hills of the Carpathian Mountains. Lush pine forests and hard-to-access trails make it difficult for many travellers to explore the countryside of the Hutsuls, an ethno-cultural group of Ukrainian highlanders. Unlike more heavily explored areas in Central Europe, Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains remain largely cut off from the main tourist routes. You will find few marked walking trails; organised campsites are virtually non-existent. Most highland roads can only be reached via four-wheel-drive vehicles, on foot or by the horse cart. Few if any people speak English, and most still live by the centuries-old customs of their ancestors.

Hutsul society was traditionally based on forestry and logging, as well as cattle and sheep breeding. Right up until the present day, the month of May marks the Hutsul’s most exciting and colourful celebrations, a time when Hutsul shepherds leave their homes to spend three months herding flocks of sheep and producing delicious cheese known locally as brynza.

Stepping into a Hutsul house in Ukraine is a trip back in time. One of the joys is a taste of delicious homemade cheese known locally as 'brynza.' Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

Stepping into a rural Hutsul house is a trip back in time: you can sample delicious homemade bread, enjoy fresh water from deeply-dug wells, taste vegetables from the local fields and even try on colourful Hutsul clothes, still worn on major village celebrations.

Hutsul people are also famous for their incredible craftsmanship. At the local bazaar, you may find beautifully and intricately decorated eggs, ornate clothing and delicate woodwork.

Travellers lucky enough to spend a day or two in the Hutsul villages during traditional holiday celebrations will come away mesmerised by the whirlwind of colours, timeless customs, plentiful dinners and authentic culture carefully preserved on the outskirts of Europe.

The Carpathian Mountains of Ukraine in winter. Photo courtesy of Igor Melika

The Vast Expanses of Nature

The Dnieper – Ukraine’s largest and Europe’s second-longest river – is bested only by the Danube. So great is its presence, ”Rare is the bird that flies to the middle of the Dnieper,” wrote Nicolai Gogol, a well-known Russian and Ukrainian writer. And while the Dnieper is definitely not the majestic waterway it was during Gogol’s lifetime, it remains an impressive and imposing sight, a symbol of Ukraine’s stunning natural landscapes.

Beyond the Dniepr, due to the sheer vastness of the territory, Ukraine can satisfy even the pickiest nature lover. Dense forests in the north hide countless rivers, marshes, lakes and swamps. In the west the gentle peaks of the Carpathian Mountains tower over the lush valleys, underground caves and World Heritage-listed beech forests boasting an abundance of wildlife. The south brings the warm sunshine, pebbled beaches and the grand Black Sea.

The Dniepr River is Ukraine's largest and Europe's second-longest river. Photo courtesy of Iloveukraine/Yevgen Pohulaylo

Whether you choose to go hiking in the Carpathian highlands, kayaking along the winding rivers or just enjoy sipping your morning coffee at the artsy cafes of Lviv, don’t forget to listen to the background stories of caring babusias, welcoming Hutsuls, cheerful women, ambitious youngsters, fearless Cossacks and countless others that form an eccentric and yet truthful-to-the-core mosaic of Ukraine, Europe’s largest unexplored frontier.

For an up-close glimpse of local Ukrainian culture – the unique combination of a proud and cosmopolitan European past, eclectic communist history and newly reasserted independence – try the wide range of Ukraine holiday packages available though Gunyah, a marketplace of authentic local experiences and tours for independent travellers.

We are nevertheless once again proud to present our Photos of the Year – the travel pictures of the year 2011 that most captured the imagination of The Travel Word team and a group of expert external judges. Unlike our Photo of the Year 2010, this year (2011), we had a tie for first place.

Click on the image below for more information about them. See further below for the judges’ comments about them and the rest of the shortlist.

Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal

Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

About the Photo of the Week and the Photo of the Year

A bit more than two years ago, we started featuring one picture each week (or, lately, every other week) on The Travel Word. We spotlighted favourite images pulled from our growing collections on Flickr.

We then asked the photographer or owner of each selected Photo of the Week to submit a short and revealing text about it – covering the subject of the photo, the general location, the experience of taking the picture, technical aspects of photography etc.

These text-image combinations have proven to be very popular. We believe that this has a lot to do with the special emphasis we have placed on the honesty of the images, all taken or sourced by our partners, who are local travel experts in their destinations. Through their eyes, and given their knowledge of what makes their homes unique, we felt confident that were discovering something special.

The Shortlist

Our methods were decidedly unscientific. For each month, The Travel Word team singled out one photo of the month. To this list of 12 we added afew wild cards that had made a particular impression on us. This shortlist is what we sent to a group of five skilled photographers for their assessment.

Below are the nine images, ranked in order, that caught the judges’ fancies along with their comments. We thank the judges for their contribution and encourage you to learn more about their work.

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+ WINNERS: PHOTOS OF THE YEAR 2011: Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal AND Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

Comments about Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal, photo and text by Navin M. Shrestha:
“This photo does an excellent job of capturing both the manic movement of the crowd and the ethereal nature of the temple.” — Mike Richards

“Here’s a unique image of the Durbar Square of Patan that not only does a good job of displaying the beauty of the temple of Lord Krisha, but bringing the square to its full cultural context by choosing to photograph it on Krishna Janmashtami (the birth anniversary of Krishna), full of devotees, prayer and a long enough exposure that bleeds the light and gives the scene a more spiritual climate.” — Arog Vila

“This picture is amazing for the fact that at first glance it could reflect a scene dating back centuries. Truly a timeless shot.” — Matt Stabile

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Comments about Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, photo by Ward Graham, accompanying text by Shafina Bandali:
“Luck is the final element, together with well-studied technique, good planning and plenty of patience, that results in this gorgeous golden-hour capture of two cheetahs looking back at us. This image has a rich tonal range accentuated by a pronounced vignette, which in this case does more than spotlight the cheetahs, it completes the interplay of light within the frame.” — Arog Vila

“Great light, composition and pose, it’s almost tells the viewer that these wild cheetahs are longing for some patting.” — Rafael Pinho

“From a technical perspective, the depth of field and vignetting are just right to single out the pair of cheetahs. They appear curious, ominous and regal all at once.” — Mike Richards

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+ RUNNERS UP: Church of Tisco, Arequipa, Peru AND Beautiful Waters of the Bocas Islands, Panama

Comments about the Church of Tisco, Arequipa, Peru, photo by Alberto Gonzalez, accompanying text by Mariel Gonzalez:
“Travel photography at its best evokes faraway experience in a single image, and this shot of a remote Peruvian church does just that: the totemic ochre ornamentations and roaming landscape transport the viewer to the high fields, far from home.” — Linus Gelber

“Just the right amount of grunge and color provide a contemporary artistic take on a classic stone structure.” — Mike Richards

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Comments about the Beautiful Waters of the Bocas Islands, Panama, photo by ATP, accompanying text by Melissa:
“Transparent green water makes any destination appealing, even if it’s all there is to it. This image portrays the dream-like environment all urbanites long for.” — Rafael Pinho

“I’m a sucker for visions of tropical paradise, probably because I so rarely experience tropical paradise. A jetty with amenities, lifted above clear entrancing waters, with balmy skies above – does it get better than this?” — Linus Gelber

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OTHER FAVOURITES OF OUR JUDGES:

+ Sleepy Lions, Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda, photo by Steve Cunliffe, accompanying text by Nicola Swann

Comment:
“As anyone who has gone on safari knows, finding lions is the ultimate reward, and to find them in such a natural state must have been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Oddly enough, this also looks like my family’s living room after Thanksgiving dinner.” — Matt Stabile

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+ The Children of Yakel Village, Tanna, Vanuatu, photo and accompanying text by John Nicholls

Comment:
“Seven strange children range along the ladder entrance to a treehouse home on Tanna Island; they may never hold an Xbox controller or argue the merits of teen fashion, but they smile, gaze, consider and go about their business just like children anywhere else. The wild differences highlight that we are, at heart, pretty much the same.” — Linus Gelber

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+ Smile from a Little Girl, Cusco, Peru, photo by Pieter Roos, accompanying text by Fernando Carrasco

Comments:
“This heartwarming portrait of a little girl is technically sound and beautifully communicative of the colorful personality beyond the girl’s colorful costume. An image that is very easy to connect with, well done!” — Arog Vila

“This girl’s amazing smile reminds me of what is truly great about travel: the people.” — Matt Stabile

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+ Migratory Birds, Lijiang, China, photo and accompanying text by Lily Zhang

Comment:
“A skein of geese, which might have just recently taken off, before forming a V, makes this a chaotic but amusing composition where each element has a certain clumsiness to it.” — Rafael Pinho

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The Judges

We sincerely thank our five judges for the time and effort taken to review our shortlist. We value their opinions and their readiness to share them with us. Please take a moment to check out their work.

Linus Gelber is a photographer from New York City, where he shoots cityscapes and live performances (notably burlesque) and sees way too many movies, if such a thing is possible. His work is represented by Getty Images. Linus would like to go to Antarctica one day, and if you knew how he felt about New York winters you’d think that was weird too.

Born in Brazil, Rafael Pinho took up photography after finishing his architecture studies. He set out as a freelancer in 2005 in Belo Horizonte and spent the following years between Berlin, New York, Reykjavík and São Paulo. His work has been shown at the Florence Biennale (2011) and the Biennale di Roma (2012) and appeared in the The Wall Street Journal, Modern Painters (US), Forum AID (Sweden), FFW Mag! (Brazil), Nýtt Líf (Iceland), Trip and Tpm (Brazil).

Mike Richard is the editor of Vagabondish. He lives in Rhode Island – a spit of land in the northeastern US - where he is a professional web designer and travel junkie with an unhealthy addiction to backpacking, camping, hiking and seeing the world. He enjoys knit hats, small, declarative sentences and speaking in the third person.

Matt Stabile founded and runs TheExpeditioner.com, through which you can read his writings, see his videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time.

Arog Vila is a New York-based photographer who developed his unique aesthetic and rule-breaking composition studying at the International Center of Photography, the New School and the School of Visual Arts. He delivers crisp and edgy images of photojournalistic human narrative, pointing his camera on the expected from an entirely new angle, then turning to the unusual and connecting it to something familiar and beautiful.

Such too were the reasons why whl.travel, the global online travel-booking network of mindful local travel experts, stepped up to sponsor it, working from within its extensive network of local partners to find fitting ecotourism prize material for the winners.

Participants were given a limit of 1,000 words and five evocative photographs through which to tell their stories. They were also required to provide tips about ecotourism in their selected destinations or reflections about how they might help better preserve that particular destination through ecotourism practices.

See the promotional video here:

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And now the winners have been identified. From dozens of submissions, a shortlist of 10 finalists (determined by public vote) was reviewed by a panel of judges that included representatives from The International Ecotourism Society (TIES), Tourism Concern, MyNatour and the WHL Group, the parent company of whl.travel.

Ethan Gelber, the Chief Communication Officer of the WHL Group, said (see the video directly below) that he was looking for three qualities when determining the best of the ecotourism travel blog contest finalists: the first was “how much time and effort was taken by the person to think about what an ecotourism experience is”; the second was “how carefully they made a choice of the experience they wanted to live through”; and the third was “whether or not the experience was as rich as they thought it would be.”

And now the winners have been announced and decided on their prizes:

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FIRST PLACE: A Garden Lady in India’s Cold Mountain Desert by Shivya

As her prize, Shivya will escape to the highland region of the Albanian Alps. Hosted by Outdoor Albania, the whl.travel local connection in Albania, Shivya will set off on a five-day guided trek through some of the country’s most vivid scenery. With overnights spent in the traditional houses of the Albanian highlanders, daytime activities include a ferry trip along Lake Koman, a visit to the Valbona Valley and a trek to the Theth Valley surrounded by high mountain passes and peaks.

SECOND PLACE: Reef to Rainforest by Hobbers

Hobbers will head deep into Estonia’s Soomaa National Park (soomaa translates more or less as ‘land of the bogs’). Surrounded by vast floodplains and crisscrossed by rivers, she and a companion will enjoy a wilderness experience in an area known for its canoeing, ‘bog-shoeing,’ beavers and berry-picking – all courtesy of Soomaa.com, an operator based out of Estonia.

THIRD PLACE: My Trip to Mali – Halt in Terya Bugu by Mario Difra

Mario will travel from his home in Italy to southwest Laos, a region replete with jungles, raging rivers and outstanding cultural heritage. Once there, he will embark on a high-flying treetop adventure by zipline, followed by a Mekong cruise to the World Heritage Site of Wat Phou – all made possible by Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos.

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The three ecotourism packages that were not selected were a rainforest adventure in Ecuador made possible by the Yachana Lodge, the whl.travel local connection in Quito; a Galapagos Island tour through Yacu Amu Experiences, the whl.travel local connection in the Galapagos; and a visit to Sana’a and Soqotra in Yemen with Eternal Yemen, the whl.travel local in Yemen.

The author grates zucchini under the watchful eye of Koula Barydakis, the chef-instructor who believes that the food of Crete, Greece, is the healthiest in the world. Photo of Heather Rath

Koula Barydakis, our ebullient chef instructor, began our local cooking lessons by pouring a shot of raki for herself and her students as we toasted the traditional Cretan diet, one of the healthiest in the world, which is a quality Barydakis makes clear in her book, Foods of Crete: Traditional Recipes from the Healthiest People in the World.

Cretan Cuisine Through the Eyes of a Local

“We Cretans eat abundantly but simply, consuming much olive oil, olives, seasonal fruits and vegetables including wild mountain greens (horta), yogurt, cheese, lentils and beans,” Barydakis explained to us. “We eat meat once a week and on special occasions. We always drink a lot of mountain tea (malotera, good for the stomach) while eating bread and olives.” It doesn’t hurt that the food is routinely flavoured with native herbs like oregano, thyme and sage, and that red wine commonly accompanies lunch and dinner.

Even cats have something to contribute to food sustainability in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

When it comes to food, Barydakis even proudly proclaims that Crete has practised sustainable living without using the name. Raki is derived from the residue of grape pressings. Most fruits and vegetables consumed are seasonal, not imported from faraway places. Crops are grown naturally without fertilisers and pesticides, just as they have been for generations. In Barydakis’s village, goats make short work of any scraps of food. Chickens are free range and their fresh eggs contain bright orange yolks. Even the scavenger street cats of Crete are part of the solution!

Modest Origins, Modest Practice

Barydakis recalls how her parents sent her to hairdressing school to learn how to earn a living unaware she also attended cooking school, where she refined the culinary skills learned from her mother and grandmother. At 16, she left Crete to travel abroad but spent most of her new life as a chef in Toronto, Canada’s Greektown before her “blessed island” lured her home again.

Delicious handmade dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice) are typical of the cuisine on Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Now she conducts her cooking classes under a patch of cobalt blue sky in an old olive oil press building renovated 10 years ago in Vamos, a traditional Cretan village. In case of rare inclement weather, she moves to a house.

During our session, we chopped, grated, mixed, pressed, formed – and dined on – rooster with Cretan pasta, kalitsounia pies (a sweet cheese pastry), grape leaves with rice (dolmades), zucchini fritters, Greek salad and garlic beets with yogurt salad washed down with liberal amounts of village wine.

A Greek Island Full of Grace

Cretan cooking is not the only lesson Barydakis taught us. She is an exuberant ambassador for her island.

“Crete is a beautiful island filled with bountiful food.’ she enthused. “The wild, natural beauty of the mountains and the ocean make you think that when God created Crete, He created all the beauty the human mind can imagine. The land is so rich with olive, lemon and orange trees, and gardens, the smell alone can make you drunk. The wide variety of herbs and flowers from ancient times found on Crete is still used to cure pains and diseases. Writers, explorers, scientists and tourists all come to Crete to see it, study it, eat the tasty foods, drink the raki and get high on its immortal wines. The people of Crete live simply and always win your heart.”

The market of fresh greens in Crete, Greece, help to make the local cuisine so rich in variety of and nutrition. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

Barydakis lives her philosophy. Following my lesson, our weekends in Crete soon featured Saturdays with Barydakis. Each week we met for coffee in a different place of Chania, the ancient city on the island’s western shore, after which she took us on a leisurely walking tour to show us excellent local restaurants, and markets, and pointed out where to purchase good local wines. She led us to special churches, monasteries and gave us a thumbnail sketch of Cretan feast holidays. Our education included the island’s Second World War history and how it affected her village and family.

A Dish to Savour: Cheese and Spinach Pie

The dough
Ingredients
4 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup raki (Barydakis says white wine or lemon juice can be used instead)
a pinch of salt
warm water (as much as needed)
½ cup olive oil

Directions
Mix the ingredients and knead them well. The pastry must be a little soft. Leave it to ‘rest’ for half an hour, covered with a towel.

Zucchini fritters frying in olive oil in Crete, Greece. Photo courtesy of Heather Rath

The Cheese stuffing
Ingredients
Equal amounts of ricotta and feta cheese
2 eggs
chopped sprigs of fresh mint
salt

Directions
Mix all the ingredients together and place on the pastry as below. Roll the dough until it is not more than 1-2 mm thick and then cut it into round shapes of about 8 cm in diameter. Put in a little stuffing and fold in a half moon shape. Seal the edges with a fork. Fry in hot olive oil. When they are browned on both sides, remove and serve.

Kali oreksi, enjoy your meal!

This Buddha statue was added to the Wat Phou complex in Champasak, Laos, when it was converted to Theravada Bhuddism at the turn of the 14th century. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Adam63

Surrounding the temple complex is the province of Champasak, once a bustling region of enormous historical significance, both political and spiritual, as it was a seat of Khmer imperial power. Today, however, within a stone’s throw of Wat Phou, the little colonial town of Champasak, a quaint village with French colonial-era buildings, sees little intrusion from outsiders and displays none of the area’s immense 13th-century splendour. The ruins nevertheless continue to attract pilgrims and visitors, who marvel at the ancient stone sculptures and majestic carved boulders.

A Well-Deserved Status

In 2001, due to their unique cultural significance and beauty, the Wat Phou ruins were classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This status sparked renewed interest from the Lao government, and, since 2007, both the Lao Information Ministry and the French Cultural Ministry are engaged in archaeological studies, as well as renovation of both the structures and their decorative engravings.

A carved boulder depicting a crocodile was supposedly used to perform human sacrifices over a 1,000 years ago at the Wat Phou complex in Champasak, Laos, before the beginning of the Khmer Empire. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Mattun0211

The 390-square-kilometre complex – which includes the smaller Tao Tao, Nang Sida and Tomo temples – is exceptional testimony of the Khmer practice of Hinduism. In addition to the surviving stone-carved evidence of this dating back to the 6th century, the site itself perfectly portrays the Hindu vision of symbiosis between nature and the human soul, the temples being isolated within the confines of the forest.

This unique natural sanctity is enhanced by the alignment of the edifices at the lower and middle levels of the complex with the mountain summit. Nowadays, the bottom-to-top climb holds tremendous spiritual significance to Buddhists, who leave prayers and offerings on the way up and at the temple on top of the hill.

Divine Natural Manifestations

The great Phu Kao Mountain looms over the site and is believed to be one of the primary reasons for the establishment of Wat Phou. The mountain’s silhouette is said to resemble a linga, a universal symbol of Lord Shiva, and a river descending from the mountaintop symbolises the stream of life that flows from Lord Shiva’s head (mimicking the reasons for the reverence of Mount Kailash in Tibet). Fittingly, an abundance of tales and folklore illustrates the divine powers that lie in these grounds: the temple is said to have cured people made wretched by illnesses and brought prosperity to those who sought blessings.

Looking back towards the Mekong river from the top of the hill where the main Wat Phou sanctuary is located in Champasak, Laos. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/mattun0211

After so many centuries, the surrounding voracious forest seems to be reclaiming what once belonged to it; trees and dense vegetation encroach on and around the grounds of the site. The effect is incredible, full of unexpected beauty. “From a tourist perspective, you walk up the centuries-old stone staircase of Wat Phou, under the frangipani trees that push directly out of the rock, to emerge before panoramic views of the surrounding area,” recalls Lee Sheridan, General Manager of Teamworkz, the whl.travel local travel connection in Laos. “The bird’s-eye view from the top of the hill takes in the temple ruins below, which are assumed to be prayer rooms. Beyond this you have two lakes, beyond which the Mekong River drifts silently past.”

Definite Must-See in Laos

Wat Phou is best enjoyed over a few days, and the best bet for nearby accommodation is in the town of Champasak. That said, a day trip can also be made from Pakse, the largest city in southern Laos.

In addition to the site’s clear historical appeal, a trip to the ruins is essential for visitors with spiritual inclinations: the calm surroundings, the inherent mysticism and few visitors make it a great place to meditate. “Wat Phou is primarily a pilgrimage place,” explains Alexandre Tsuk, Managing Director of the Inthira Group, which manages the Inthira Hotel, an excellent-value lodging set in a former Chinese shop house in Champasak town. “You can buy flowers to offer at the temple and you don t have the impression you’re in a tourist site at all.”

This carved pediment on the south side of the sanctuary at Wat Phou in Champasak, Laos, shows Krishna killing Kamsa and dates from the site's early days as a Hindu site. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Markalexander100

After exploring the ancient ruins, a visit to the on-site museum reveals sculptures and relics removed from their original locations in the complex to avoid destruction from erosion.

Travellers with a few days to spare might enjoy arriving at the site after three tranquil days on a Mekong River boat cruise to Wat Phou. A full moon at Wat Phou is also special, as 10,000 candles are spread at night over the ancient ruins. This is in contrast to the first week of February, when the annual multi-day Wat Phou Festival brings the normally quiet site alive with ceremonies, games and processions of monks. Throughout the year, more adventurous travellers can join guided explorations of caves found on Phu Kao Mountain.

To plan a real local experience in Wat Phou, get in touch with Teamworkz, the whl.travel local connection in Laos. They’ll help you make the best of Wat Phou, but if you’ve got more time, also try other travel adventures in Champasak.

Historically Fraught Forts and Castles

The World Heritage forts and castles of Ghana were built along the entire coastline of the country between the 15th and 18th centuries by various European nations competing bitterly with one another for a slice of the lucrative but abominable trade in chattel slavery. This dark commerce forcefully trafficked millions of Africans to the New World and beyond in what became known as triangular slave trade.

The Elmina Castle is one of the best-known and most touristed of around 70 castles and forts in Ghana that have collectively earned UNESCO World Heritage status. Its relevance to the 15th-century slave trade is what gives it high historical value. Photo courtesy of flickr/erikkristensen

With time, this coming together of people of different racial and cultural backgrounds brought about an unprecedented cultural shift of a global dimension. Hence the importance of the forts and castles as points of pilgrimage for thousands of Africans in the diaspora who return each year to Africa to discover where the journeys of their ancestors began. The 1979 decision by UNESCO to place the forts and castles under its wing was primarily to conserve them as World Heritage Sites of universal value.

In addition to that, UNESCO wants the forts and castles to be seen not only as symbols of a historical reality that has been ignored for far too long, but also as a cue for today’s world. By helping us reexamine history, the monuments represent issues of today such as Africa’s struggle with racial and human rights. They pave the way for reconciliation, development and peace.

Each year, people of African origin from all over the world sojourn to castles like Cape Coast in Ghana to commemorate the starting point of the slave trade diaspora. Photo courtesy of flickr/Adam Jones, Ph.D

Though only two of the best preserved structures – the Elmina Castle, built by the Portuguese in 1482, and the Cape Coast Castle, initiated by the Swedes in 1669 – are popular with tourists and well known since their elevation as World Heritage Sites, the 30 other surviving structures, including those in abject ruin like Koromantse and Keta, are no less important in the roles they played. They memorialise some of the most important events to shape human history in the past 500 years. For that reason, UNESCO has commemorated all the forts and castles as common heritage sites for Ghana and the European nations that built them.

Before the UNESCO initiative, most of the existing forts and castles were open to public viewing and even used as guesthouses. The UNESCO stamp of approval in 1979 has brought them even more prestige, enhancing their tourism appeal. It has also sharpened the commitment to save them from total obliteration and has aided the cause to release those now serving as prisons or offices. For example, in Accra, Fort Christiansborg, also known as Osu Castle, is the central office of the Ghana Museum and Monuments Board (GMMB).

Original Ashanti architecture, with its intricate and complicated 'adinkra' symbols, is so rare that the best examples are found in drawings from the 19th century. Photo courtesy of wikimedia/Thomas Edward Bowdich

Ashanti Traditional Houses: Dying Architecture

The Ashanti Traditional Houses of Ghana won the approval of UNESCO in 1980 as testimony to the complex architectural and artistic expression of native Africans. Sadly, only a few of the structures remain today.

Found in the Eastern and Ashanti regions of Ghana, these mud-walled Shrine Houses with woven palm-branch roofs are most remarkable for the fine geometrical designs and stylised animal emblems found on them. Each of the symbols, known as adinkra, are also used in the design of a popular local cloth of the same name and as carvings in traditional regalia like linguistic staffs. Each adinkra has a special meaning, representing specific cultural concepts or aphorisms.

Despite the lofty reputation of Ashanti Traditional Houses as UNESCO monuments, the GMMB and Ghana’s tourism authorities have more work to do with regard to education concerning the spectacular traditional architecture of Ghana.

This house in Ghana is a replica of a traditional Ashanti house. Very few genuine examples still remain. Photo courtesy of flickr/Berry FIne

UNESCO Status Needed: Lake Bosomtwe

There remains one Ghanaian asset of immense cultural and scientific value that needs inclusion on the UNESCO list to save it from destruction. This is Lake Bosomtwe, the sacred lake of Ashanti famed for its scenic splendour and as a puzzling geological landmark for scientists around the world.

The problem with this intriguing lake is that many of its unique qualities, such as fossil records of scientific importance, remain largely unknown. Created by a falling meteorite, 1.07 million years ago, Lake Bosomtwe can be compared with another body of water of similar origin in Africa called Lake Tswaing, near Pretoria, South Africa, which, even though it possesses fewer attributes, has been adopted by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Ghana's fragile and scenic Lake Bosomtwe has much to lose if drastic measures such as UNESCO protection aren't undertaken soon. Photo courtesy of flickr/jntolva

The dangers facing Lake Bosomtwe include the abandonment of time-tested traditional methods of navigation and fishing; and the setting aside of customary ceremonies that once protected the lake from excessive exploitation and threats to an endemic species of fish, Chromis bosomanus, which is named after the lake. The lake’s environs have been stripped of original forest vegetation and there is risk of stoppage of a peculiar phenomenon that released accumulated gases and avoided stagnating. It would take nothing less than the intervention of UNESCO to save the lake from drying up and to protect the ancient cultures of those living near this geological wonder.

Following media promptings, the GMMB appealed to the World Heritage Council in September 1998 at its meeting in Porto Novo, Benin Republic, to recognise Lake Bosomtwe as a World Heritage Site. The request was acknowledged, but Ghana must now pursue the matter more vigorously to win the UNESCO endorsement.

An angler on Lake Bosomtwe still uses the traditional single-plank fishing method. The degradation of the lake has put at risk the guarantee of his catch. Photo courtesy of flickr/jntolva

Such a move will enhance the prestige of this miniature inland sea, helping to save it from destruction and opening the door to more research and greater ecotourism opportunities.

To encounter the history and culture of Ghana’s treasured world heritage, visit Lake Bosomtwe or take an Ashanti culture and history tour with M & J Travel and Tours, the whl.travel local connection in Ghana.

This footage captures the moment hundreds of lanterns are released into the skies above Chiang Mai, Thailand. The ultra-light paper body fills with hot gas and sends each lantern soaring skyward, the suspended flame propelling its glowing form into the night. As the huge group lifts into the air, the breeze catches the lanterns and carries them peacefully into the night, each light gradually fading to a bright speck, one of many points of light in the evening sky.

The tradition is a major annual event in Chiang Mai as well as in other parts of Thailand. The release of lanterns is part of a festival known as Yi Peng, a holdover from the ancient kingdom of Lanna which used to cover most of what is now Northern Thailand. The ritual has Buddhist origins and the release of lanterns is believed to bring good luck to those who take part.

In addition, the timing of Yi Peng has come to coincide with another major Thai festival – Loi Krathong. The two are now often celebrated simultaneously at the start of November, leading to major celebrations. The festival of Loi Krathong involves the launching of small rafts as an offering. These rafts often contain flames of their own, so both the rivers and skies of Chiang Mai are filled with light during the festivities.