Turtles are curious creatures that have walked (and swum) this earth since the time of the dinosaurs. Little is known about this migratory animal that often will swim thousands of miles across oceans to return to the very beaches where they were born to lay their eggs. This green turtle was photographed in Seychelles, an image courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

Saving the marine turtle just may be one of the few things the international community can agree on these days. This seafaring migratory creature doesn’t know anything of borders, fishing routes or beach resorts properties. Unfortunately, though, these are the very factors threatening the sea turtle with extinction; finding ways to help them hasn’t been easy.

Despite being the subject of much inquiry, marine turtles have proven to be elusive subjects, creatures that date back to the age of dinosaurs, spend most of their time at sea and swim thousands of miles each year. In fact, female turtles only come to shore in the summer months to lay two to four batches of eggs. Each one digs a nest about 40-centimetres deep and lays 80-100 soft-shelled eggs. The mother turtle then leaves the nest and, after two months of incubation, the hatchlings emerge and make their way by the light of the moon to the sea. A lot can go wrong in this delicate process, which explains why, on average, 1 in 1,000 hatchlings survives.

Threats to Turtle Survival

There are seven species of sea turtles, only two of which are prominent in the Mediterranean – loggerhead and green turtles, although there have been occasional leatherback sightings as well. No one knows for sure how large the turtle populations once were in the Mediterranean, but in the 1950s and 1960s, turtle soup was considered a delicacy and the green turtle female population was notably weakened to fewer than 500 individuals. In the last 100 years, human factors in the region have continued to threaten these species to the point of endangerment.

Most turtles are caught as they push up the beach to lay their eggs. Many are killed and large numbers of their eggs harvested for food. Laws now outlaw such practices, but turtle populations have yet really to reinforce their numbers. Part of the reason for this is turtles are just as vulnerable at sea as they have been on land, as many sea turtles are routinely caught in long fishing nets and lines and are either drowned or, when released, prone to die of the injuries sustained in the nets.

Perhaps most devastating of all is the boom in beach developments along the Mediterranean coast and islands. Each turtle will only lay her eggs on the same beach where she was born. This means that if a beach is lost to a resort or seaside restaurant, an entire colony of turtles can be wiped out.

Turtles are at their most vulnerable when laying their eggs. The number of human-caused obstacles that occur at this delicate time are innumerable, from bright hotel lights and over-trodden beaches to trash, large fishing nets and beach development. This green turtle was seen in Sandakan, Malaysia, photo courtesy of Flickr/whl.travel

The Benefits of Turtle Tourism

In the face of all these challenges, marine turtles persevere. The most populous loggerhead and green nesting grounds in the region are in Kefalonia, Greece, with other prominent sites in North Cyprus and Dalyan, Turkey. On the nearby Arabian Peninsula, one beach in Oman hosts 15,000 green turtle nests each year, the largest nesting site in the region.

Thankfully, in recent years, several of these key nesting sites have taken a different approach to tourism. Local tourism providers have realised – some faster than others – that keeping turtles around isn’t just good for the environment, it’s good for business too. By offering turtle-safe viewing areas and organised volunteer activities, such as beach cleanups – or ‘turtle rescues’ from traditional shallow nets – animal-curious tourists learn about local turtles and how to protect them. It’s a self-fulfilling circle that provides education for tourists and locals alike while giving the turtles what they need to survive.

Turtle Security in Action

When in the Mediterranean, if you want to see turtles or volunteer for a local organisation, there are several places from which to choose. In the Middle East, the most prominent one is Ras Al Jinz in Oman, home to 15,000 green turtle nests, the largest concentration In the region.The community of Ras Al Jinz has embraced the turtle phenomenon and, thanks to the centrally located Scientific Research Center and the cooperation of many hotels in Ras Al Jinz, the beach as maintained as a nesting site and the turtles are well cared for.

For example, the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve hotel has minimal lighting in order to not disturb the nesting turtles at night. The nearby Turtle Beach Resort is great base from which to explore the surrounding wildlife; it offers turtle, bird and dolphin watching, along with snorkelling and diving trips. You can even stay adjacent to the Ras Al Jinz Scientific Research Center at the Carapace Lodge, which is ideally situated for early-morning and late-night turtle sightings far from the other accommodation. There are also many tours in Oman that combines visits to the Wahiba sands with experiences at the Ras Al Jinz turtle reserve.

Right in the Mediterranean basin, the three main loggerhead- and green-turtle viewing sites are in Kefalonia, Greece; North Cyprus; and Dalyan, Turkey. On the island of Kefalonia, Mounda Beach is the most famous nesting site for loggerhead turtles. Fears of overdevelopment and burgeoning tourism have seen the establishment of associations like the Katelios Group, an assembly of locals who began working together in 1994 to help conserve the turtle population and natural wildlife.

Turtles are natural seafaring creatures that can measure up to 51 inches (130 centimetres) in length and weigh 660 pounds (300 kilograms). They are the earth's oldest living reptiles. Known for their shy defensive mechanisms, turtles actually have some of the best night vision in the animal kingdom. This loggerhead turtle was is off the coast of Turkey near Kas. Photo courtesy of Flickr/whltravel

In North Cyprus, tour operator Kaleidoskop Turizm often sends turtle-seeking guests to the Marine Turtle Conservation Project, which cooperates with post-graduate students to research the effect of fisheries on turtle populations. Turtle watching in North Cyprus can be arranged through a variety of tours, though viewing through a conservation project is usually most beneficial to the turtles as they have closely monitored nesting times, migration patterns and feeding habits.

Dalyan, Turkey, is one of the most famous examples of successful turtle conservation in the Mediterranean. In 1986, Izutuzu Beach (now known as ‘Turtle Beach’) was slated for a large luxury-hotel development. However, because the beach is one of the key nesting grounds of the loggerhead turtle, international condemnation, helmed by David Bellamy himself, successfully reversed the decision and now the beach is a protected site. Wooden stakes mark nesting sites and visitors are encouraged to be careful where they walk, as the sand could get packed down and make digging a nest more difficult. Izutuzu Beach was named the world’s best beach in 1995 and is regarded as a hallmark of successful conservation. Many beach hotels in Dalyan are located near the site, but the part of the beach housing nests is closed during incubation and hatching periods.

Beach Rules to Follow

Many beaches are still unprotected in the Mediterranean and Middle East, where turtles are facing an uphill battle. But all is not lost. For tourists, following a few simple guidelines is essential and could mean the difference between extinction and survival.

So the next time you’re on a turtle’s beach, be sure to:

1. Pick up your trash. Like sea birds, turtles can become strangled in plastic rings and bags.
2. Only place umbrellas or other fixtures in wet sand. Turtles nest in dry sand and driving stakes into it could damage the nests.
3. Not walk on the beach at night. Hatchlings use the light from the stars and moon to guide their path to the sea. Loud noises or lights will frighten nesting turtles and confuse hatchlings.
4. Not touch or move turtle hatchlings going toward the ocean. This imprints on the turtle during a key period in the first few hours of their life. Also, they develop and use key muscle groups in their walk to the ocean. If you want to help, stay out of the way and clear any obstructions, like sandcastles or trash.
5. Not camp or drive on the beach. This packs down the sand and makes digging a nest difficult.
6. Make sure your hotel has a ‘low light’ policy as bright lights from large developments or beach-front hostels are one of the primary deterrents for nesting turtles.

You can learn more about turtle conservation in Europe and other parts of the world through the Sea Turtle Conservancy.

Barra de Potosí is a small coastal village at the mouth of a lagoon, part of a complex and interdependent system of lagoons, which runs along the coast of the Municipio de Petatlan. The lagoon network regulates the lives of both human and animal lives and has a balanced ecosystem that has kept its people gainfully employed and its environment protected.

Barra de Potosí beach. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES)

A Mega-Development Threat

The people of Barra de Potosí are now confronted by a development project that they believe will destroy the existing ecosystem, in spite of Mexican laws protecting the environment and in contradiction with industry trends that seem to point toward interests in sustainability and ecotourism.

Fonatur, a branch of the Ministry of Tourism, and its subsidiary Fonatur Operadora SA de CV are planning a mega project in the area of Petatlan that includes Barra de Potosí. The proposed development would include construction of a cruise ship pier in the bay, as well as the expansion of an existing installation in the bay of Zihuatanejo. The official document published in the Gazetta Official refers to a concession in the bay of Potosí covering 1,500 hectares and an almost 8,000-square-meter pier. Indicating the intention to go ahead with these plans, developers a few miles south of Barra de Potosí have recently built a road that will block the natural flow of water from one of the rivers that feeds the lagoon.

Residents of Barra de Potosí and neighboring communities have tried to obtain detailed information about this development project, but have only received evasive answers. The people have stood up in protest, for example in Zihuatanejo and Petatlan, to convince civil servants as well as representatives of Fonatur and its subsidiaries that this project goes against all national environmental laws. It would also annihilate the unique biodiversity of this region in a just few years, while depriving the population of its traditional means of existence.

Local fisherman hard at work near the mangroves. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES)

An Irreplaceable Ecosystem

The Potosí lagoon and those interconnected with it, together with long stretches of adjoining beaches, are home to over 200 species of birds, endangered butterflies, rare mammals and reptiles, nesting sea turtles, coral reefs, breeding whales and many species of threatened plants.

Preliminary studies by biologists from the Independent University Metropolitan (UAM) indicate that within the ecosystems of Barra de Potosí there are hundreds of species of flora and fauna, of which 46 are endangered or at risk according to the official Mexican regulation NOM-059. For example of the seven surviving species of sea turtles in the world, the leatherback, olive ridley and hawksbill all nest on the beaches of Barra. The Laguna de Potosí contains 450 hectares of mangrove swamps and three threatened species of manglar: botoncillo, black, red and white listed in NOM-059.

Other species threatened by extinction are the rare Tamandua anteater, the puma jaguarundi, the jaguar or Panthera onca, Mexican white tail deer, boa constrictor, iguana and American crocodile. Over two hundred species of birds – including 22 on the NOM-059 list – have been sighted by UAM scientists including roseate spoonbills, painted buntings, trogans, white and brown pelicans and woodstorks. The nearby islands of Los Moros are rookeries for brown boobies, tropicbirds and magnificent frigates, to name a few. The waters off the beach form part of the migration route for humpback whales, bottlenose and tropical dolphins, among other endangered species.

Over 200 species of birds have been sighted here in the pristine Potosí lagoon, and in the surrounding ecosystem. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES)

Barra de Potosí’s Youth: Ideas to Sustain the Community

Some of the local youth, well-educated sons and grandsons of fishermen have been working on developing an economic plan that would help preserve their way of life along with the precious natural environment. These future leaders of the community have been working on an ecotourism project alongside academics from various national universities. They believe very strongly that this project is not only an economically and environmentally sound venture, but also acts as a line of defense against predatory mega-tourism enterprises which often ally with short-sighted government agencies.

The youth’s efforts in this grassroots ecotourism project are strongly supported by the great majority of the population, which has seen the unfortunate results of devastating mega-tourism projects in Huatulco, Cancun, nearby Ixtapa and elsewhere in Mexico. A defense fund has been created and an environmental lawyer has been hired to help on the legal front, while an informational campaign has been launched with the aim of enlisting help from the general public as well as from international organizations.

A young protester at a public march. Photo courtesy of The International Ecotourism Society (TIES)

How You Can Help

This fight against a huge government institution out of touch with its own public policies is proving to be a difficult one, and the people of Barra de Potosí can use all the help they can get. Consider offering your support of this community by participating in one of these easy ways:

1. Send an email to Mexican decisionmakers. See here for a sample template and instructions for how to address your letter.
2. Spread the word on Facebook. Join the Barra de Potosí “Causes” page.
3. Post a message of support on the Save Barra de Potosí guestbook page here.
4. Use your voice! Tell popular cruise lines that you don’t want them in Barra de Potosí, and let them know that Barra residents have international support. See more information here on how and where to send an email or letter to cruise lines.
5. Inform yourself and others about this important issue.
6. Spread the word! Share this link with your friends and colleagues!

Let the decisionmakers know that the small town of Barra de Potosí is not alone in its fight against over development, destruction of an irreplaceable ecosystem and disregard of an entire community.

Creole Capers

The island nation of Cape Verde is situated 450 kilometres off Africa’s west coast. A former Portuguese colony, the archipelago has a multitude of ethnic and cultural influences from Brazil, Senegal and Portugal. Think fabulous food, dancing and irrepressible salsa rhythms!

Tarrafal Beach is the largest and most impressive stretch of sand on the island of Santiago, Cape Verde. The fishing village of Tarrafal is the site of an colonial Portuguese political prison.

Comprising a string of volcanic islands ringed by white sand and turquoise sea, the country serious rivals the Caribbean as an autumn and winter sun destination, but for the time being remains pleasantly unspoiled and crowd-free. Its excellent year-round climate and almost constant sunshine mean sun worshippers have plenty to be thankful for and water-sports enthusiasts will not be disappointed either.

Choosing the best beach is a tall order, but the endless stretches of white sand around the main town, Santa Maria, on the island of Sal are hard to fault, as is the vast Curralinho beach on the island of Boa Vista. Boa Vista is also a fabulous spot for snorkelling and sailing, whilst São Vicente island offers the best windsurfing. The cooling breezes off the island of Sal make for great surfing and the whole archipelago offers top-notch diving, with abundant sea life including turtles and plenty of caves, rocks and wrecks awaiting exploration.

Oman’s 1001 Arabian Beaches

One of the more unspoilt and under-frequented destinations in the Middle East, the Sultanate of Oman, boasts a 1700-kilometre coastline with some of the finest (and emptiest) beaches and cleanest waters in the Gulf, if not the world. Unbearably hot during the summer months, Oman is the perfect place to visit in autumn; October is a very pleasant 25 degrees Celsius with plenty of sunshine.

Oman is a haven for five species of rare turtle, four of which nest here. Tours to see these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat are extremely popular with visitors. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/M@t

The capital, Muscat, has some great sun spots, including Qurum Beach, a favourite with picnickers and day trippers thanks to its shady palms, as well as the more secluded Bandar Al-Jissah, a bay that provides the perfect city getaway sheltered by cliffs and hidden from onlookers.

If you’re looking really to get away from it, 4×4 car hire opens the way for a two-hour drive over the dunes from Muscat to Sifah Beach, voted one of the world’s best beaches by the Guardian newspaper’s readers. Getting there is half the fun apparently, but being there isn’t so bad either. For your own private tropical paradise, fishing boats from there are available to whisk you away to one of many little coves off the main strand.

As you would expect, water sports are available up and down the coast with excellent diving, snorkelling, fishing, sailing and kayaking on offer, as well as dolphin-watching trips.

Panama’s Caribbean Coast

Situated on Panama‘s Atlantic coast, the province of Bocas del Toro – actually an archipelago of seven large islands and hundreds of smaller ones – enjoys a brief dry season during the months of September and October, which means not only is there welcome respite from the frequent rain, but the water is at its clearest. Year-round tropical temperatures and calm azure seas mean boat trips, deep-sea fishing, kayaking and snorkelling in the area are pretty spectacular.

Although off the mainstream tourist radar, the islands of Bocas del Toro in Panama have been popular with backpackers, hippies, divers and surfers for some years now. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia/Carlos Adampol Galindo

The archipelago is surrounded by coral reefs (home to a dazzling display of sponges and fish), caves and wrecks that make it one of the top dive sites in Central America. Above the water, light ocean breezes help keep the temperature down and make Bocas del Toro a popular spot with surfers picking between easy beach breaks and challenging tubes over the reefs. Travellers on a budget will be pleased to note that water sports can be organised in Bocas at a fraction of the price in neighbouring Costa Rica and Honduras.

If lazing around in a hammock is more your scene, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better place to do absolutely nothing. With its palm-fringed, white-sand beaches set against a backdrop of lush rainforest, Bocas is the epitome of a paradise on earth. The best beaches include Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimentos, named after the poison-dart frogs who make it their home, and Cayos Zapatillas, a long stretch of ivory sand in a protected marine park with some of the best snorkelling in town.

Philippine Dream

Regularly lauded as one of the best beach destinations in the world, the Philippine island of Borocay, located about 200 kilometres south of Manila is small but perfectly formed. Its two main beaches – White Beach and Bulabog Beach – sit opposite each other, with White Beach catering more to the party crowd with its bars, clubs and restaurants, and Bulabog offering the best wind- and kite-surfing in town.

Fire dancing is a big hit on Boracay's beaches. The beachfront Bamboo Lounge bar and restaurant is a great place to check out this mesmerising entertainment. Photo courtesy of Flickr/www.boracay.travel

There are other smaller beaches and coves too that offer more seclusion and privacy, such as Balinghai Beach, which is enclosed by high rocks and whose nearby coral garden makes it a perfect spot for snorkelling. Another quiet beach is Cagban, which means ‘cave’ or ‘chest.’ Legend has it that there are still treasure chests secreted in the sand and surrounding caves.

In addition to some world-renowned diving, Boracay is the place for sailing in a paraw, a double-winged boat ideal for groups of two to six people. They can be rented with or without crew, depending on your sailing skills.

September is considered off-season, which means there is plenty of cheap accommodation and lots of elbowroom on the beach – welcome relief after the hectic summer months. The weather is at its best during October and November, when the temperature drops a little and makes the prospect of lazing around on the beach all the more enticing.

Newlyweds Ken and Isabella look to the horizon and contemplate their future at Anse Source d’Argent on la Digue Island in the Seychelles after their wedding

Today, the African archipelagic nation of the Seychelles, already admired the world over for its stance on nature conservation – there are programmes in place to protect everything from the world’s smallest frog to its largest seed – is now indeed being lauded for altogether different reasons.

Let the Sunshine In

The Republic of Seychelles, as it is officially known, was recently named the world’s number one honeymoon destination by sunshine.co.uk, a notable UK-based travel agency. Following an announcement in October, the company now ranks the Seychelles above a number of high profile destinations, with Marrakech (Morocco) coming in second, and Jamaica, Las Vegas and Bulgaria rounding out the top five.

The Seychelles islands are truly breathtaking. With honeymooners now looking for some exotic flavour to add spice to the celebration of their matrimony, the 115 coral islands located in the Indian Ocean northeast of Madagascar are an ideal destination for those who won’t fuss about getting a bit of powdery, white sand in their wedding shoes.

Life in the Seychelles moves at a relaxed pace, one taken to heart by the affable and laidback populace of roughly 87,000. With this in mind, honeymooners have access to a tranquil or dynamic romantic getaway, one gauged to satisfy all tastes and all taking advantage of the country’s translucent waters, pristine nature reserves and gorgeous coral reefs, the most notable of which is the World Heritage Site Aldabra Atoll, home of the world’s largest population of giant tortoises, as well as many varieties of unique flora and fauna.

Enjoy a light fruit breakfast with homemade juices and freshly baked bread at La Reserve Hotel, located on a private beach at Anse Seber and overlooking the Seychelles' Curieuse Marine Park

Open Doors for All

No longer viewed as an exclusive stomping ground for the rich and famous, the Seychelles Islands are now on the radar of travellers of all backgrounds. The islands offer a wide range of Seychelles hotels – everything from simple shoreline bungalows to extravagant and exclusive resorts – and also present a full menu of Seychelles activities, including snorkelling and walking through the Praslin Island Nature Reserve.

As honeymooners frequently opt for a taste of luxury, there is an assortment of honeymoon suites with breathtaking views. Le Duc de Praslin and La Reserve Hotel on Praslin Island provide guests with idyllic lodging at reasonable rates. For a bit more seclusion, Patatran Village sits on a rocky cliff overlooking the crystal blue sea on La Digue Island.

The Seychelles is also the perfect destination for an actual wedding. In the spirit of the country’s relaxed atmosphere, couples can hold their nuptials practically anywhere, with Mahé Island presenting bride and groom with the widest range of ceremony options.

Interested? Then Pascal and the spirited team at Holidays Seychelles, your whl.travel local connection, can help you plan your dream honeymoon, including finding the perfect hotel and island for your romantic holiday and all other aspects of any special holiday. The dedicated Holidays Seychelles wedding coordinator can lend a hand for a more complete Seychelles Wedding or Honeymoon Package.

The encounter shown above happened in Ubatuba, Brazil, during a dive. Our region is blessed with a lot of algae, fish, sponges and crustaceans that most marine turtles love to eat, so it’s very common for us to see them on our beaches and swimming around our snorkelling and dive sites. They are so sweet and move so gracefully underwater that they enchant almost every diver.

In Brazil, we have something called Projecto Tamar, which aims to protect from extinction the turtles that depend on the Brazilian coastline for food and nesting. Projecto Tamar has an office in Ubatuba (on Praia do Itaguá), where it cares for injured turtles – providing medical attention, keeping them protected until they’re healed, tagging them with the place and date they were found and then releasing them back into the sea. The data they collect is used to monitor where they go and learn more about their habits and so on. Projecto Tamar does an excellent job of educating children and beach communities, especially fishermen, about not eating turtles and not throwing plastic bags and other garbage into the sea that could be mistaken as food and eaten by turtles. They also promote sustainability at the local level by training fishermen and their families in other activities, like crafting handmade toys, souvenirs and recycled-paper notebooks. They even give locals the opportunity to work directly with the project and in the project store, where the profits are used to fund turtle survival programs. Projecto Tamar is another reason why Ubatuba has so many turtles.

Diving is such an extraordinary adventure and the treat of seeing a hawksbill turtle in its real habitat is a truly memorable experience, one that almost everyone can have through our dive centre on Ubatuba. Even if you are not a certified diver, you can take part in a Discover Scuba Diving program and, with an instructor, explore beneath the waves near one of our beautiful islands like Anchieta or Couves.

The turquoise waters and marine wildlife diversity of the Los Roques archipelago make it an ideal location for diving and snorkelling. Close encounters with sea turtles are common.

Los Roques is, however, more than just a pretty face. There are many commendable organisations working to maintain the long-chronicled diversity of species that reside in its engulfing Caribbean waters. One of them – the Los Roques Scientific Foundation (Fundación Cientifíca Los Roques) – has been hard at work on the atoll since 1963 from its enviable present position inside Los Roques Archipelago National Park, a site is has occupied since before the park’s inception.

Untiring in its pursuit of innovative ways to secure the protection and sustainable use of marine resources, the Foundation strives to educate the islands’ residents and visitors about marine biology and associated social topics, as well as encourage the community to get involved in their efforts.

Sea Turtle Conservation

One major concern of the Foundation is the wellbeing of two species of endangered turtles (the green and the loggerhead) and two species of critically endangered sea turtles (the hawksbill and the leatherback), all of which use the islands’ beaches as nesting grounds. The Foundation has long practiced different methods of helping to rebuild healthy populations of these turtles, including ensuring the safe release of as many babies as possible into the surrounding seas.

This baby turtle, just released, is ready for the big waters after living in a hatchery to ensure its safe growth and maturation

As part of this work, the Foundation has developed an ‘Adopta une Tortuga’ (Adopt a Turtle) programme through which travellers visiting Los Roques can aid in this noble cause. Turtle ‘godparents’ contribute directly to the project by sponsoring baby tortoises in hatcheries until release. Support can target a single turtle or multiple babies, and godparents are welcome to participate actively in the release process.

To date, more than 25,000 turtles have been released and many of them tagged to gain more information about the populations in the area. The Foundation’s work has also fuelled educational outreach about these endangered species both around the archipelago and throughout the world.

Important Local Support

Also active in this paradisiacal destination, in part through an abiding interest in the Foundation’s programmes, is Valencia Los Roques, a specialised travel agency that is your whl.travel local connection in Los Roques. Several of Valencia Los Roques’s tours, like a day trip to Cayo de Agua, include visits to Dos Mosquises Key, the biological station where the turtles are looked after, to promote education about the marine wildlife of this unique ecosystem.

The Los Roques Scientific Foundation of Venezuela never ceases to educate visitors by allowing them to observe one of the on-site hatcheries. These baby turtles are growing strong so they will have a better chance of survival once they are placed back in their natural environment.

Valencia Los Roques itself contributes financially to the ‘Adopta una Tortuga’ programme, every member of the agency having individually adopted a baby turtle.

“We think the Foundation’s mission is amazing,” said Melissa Gonzalez Llovera, a travel agent at Valencia Los Roques. “Previous to this organization, there was no one to care for the turtles. Nowadays, they release several species of turtles throughout the year and we love the idea of involving tourists in the venture and are proud to play a role in conserving these endangered species. I really hope this will be the first of many biological stations for turtles and other endangered species, such as the whales, not only in Venezuela, but around the world.”

A contribution to the Foundation’s endeavour is just one of many ways that you can join Valencia Los Roques in creating a more sustainable Los Roques. Contact them to learn more about what is happening in Venezuela or hear firsthand how to become the proud godparent of a baby sea turtle.

Your local connection for whl.travel, Valencia Los Roques will also help you with any other information about Los Roques, including booking responsible posadas (guesthouses) like La Laguna, whose owner recycles everything from coffee grounds to egg shells; tours to many of the keys of the archipelago; and lots of insider tips about the best spot to see the sunrise at 5am or relax at night and watch for shooting stars.

The construction of dhows, the same traditional trading vessels used in the area centuries ago, is a major industry in the city of Sur, a northeastern regional capital of Oman

Muscat, the capital of Oman, is usually the first stop for visitors to the country. Despite its small size, it is replete with things to see and do. Literally meaning ‘anchor,’ Muscat is a port city that has carefully adopted modern-day conveniences without disturbing its charming Arabesque architecture or the forts and palaces of its past. Although considered a desert centre, Muscat could justifiably be called a ‘garden city’ with its numerous parks and green areas promising respite from the sweltering midday sun.

Oman hotels cover a wide variety of urban tastes, as well as desires for retreat beyond the bustle of town. For example, the Turtle Reservation Scientific Research Centre now includes a new lodge, and Qurum Beach and the quiet bay of Bandar Al-Jissah have become popular havens for travellers in search of water-based activities like sailing and dolphin-watching.

whl.travel’s launch of www.hotels-oman.com opens Oman to the local-travel community through its connection to Will Plummer and the team of Alanaka Tours.

Fully aware of the detrimental effects that mass tourism can have on a destination, Will and the team strive to promote responsible tourism in Oman, allowing travellers to explore their incredible destination without making much of a negative impact. A number of unique Oman tours are led by local guides, limited to 12 people per tour and only follow existing trails. As desert camping is much in demand, Alanaka Tours uses local Omani partners to provide accommodation and tents are equipped with eco-friendly toilets.

Work on the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque of Oman was completed in 2001. It contains the world's largest single hand-woven carpet, measuring 70m by 60m.

Says Will about joining the whl.travel network: “The ability to travel and explore new destinations is one that this generation has had the great privilege to enjoy, and long may this continue. We are all acutely aware though of the damage that is being done to the planet and as a traveller can see the effects that tourism has had on communities and landscapes. If we don’t collectively take action to ensure that environments and local economies are protected rather than being exploited, if we don’t take action to ensure new tourist-related building work is built in an environmentally considerate manner, then we will not only contribute to the destruction of the planet but will ruin the very heart of what makes visiting new countries so exciting – the people and the places themselves. Tourism will become a chore rather than the pleasure it should be.”

Although a parallel ‘turtle emergency rescue’ program of buying turtles captured by locals as a step in saving them from the cooking pot unfortunately had to be discontinued as it created a new industry – the capture of released turtles in order to sell them back – the resort nevertheless became the island’s de facto animal refuge, even providing veterinary assistance when need.

A White Grass Ocean Resort turtle emergency rescue program of buying turtles captured by locals had to be discontinued when released turtles were captured and sold back to the resort

As part of their efforts, the Nicholls’ also banned coconut crab from their menu (see more information), a practical step in helping to building the first and only coconut crab habitat in Vanuatu.

“Instead of eating them, our guests could handle and photograph living crabs. The kids had a ball seeing, touching and hand-feeding these awesome creatures, which are coloured in beautiful greens and blues, rather than seeing them cooked red,” said John. “In order to immediately sensitise people to the unique, fun eco-experience in store for resort guests, I sometimes welcomed them with a giant coconut crab… a live one, that is!”

Although their efforts initially made little impact, and maintaining the habitat was no easy task – these largest land-living crustacean can cut themselves out of any corner with their powerful claws and easily climb any surface, like the coconut trees from which they take their name – John and Silvana persisted.

“When travelling to the capital, Port Vila, we were appalled to see coconut crabs sold in restaurants,” confirmed John. “The irony of it is that they are actually quite bland in flavour, hence inevitably covered with strong sauces to make them interesting to eat. There was quite a trade in coconut crabs and we knew this was not sustainable, as numbers were dwindling fast. When we contacted a few experts on the subject, our fears were confirmed: there was a real problem.”

The coconut crab weighs over five kilograms when fully grown and measures metre wide from claw to claw

Predictions were that if coconut crab consumption could not be curbed, a number of islands in Vanuatu would feast them into extinction. The problem was not specific to the resort’s island of Tanna; it was true of many other islands as well.

“We then set out to make the tourism industry aware of the coconut crab plight,” continued John. “At the beginning, most hospitality colleagues did not know much about us and discarded our message as coming from recently arrived tree-hugging greenies. Only a few backed our little movement. But in mid 2002 the country’s iconic resorts banned coconut crab from their menus and things changed rapidly for the better. The message was being taken seriously.”

The movement relied not at all on a committee, printed brochures or criticism of anyone persisting in selling crabs. It simply consisted of information (see more information) shared via regular emails, at association meetings and on the resort website. With the hospitality industry in Vanuatu composed principally of independent individuals, many who have left their countries of birth “to get away from the top-down approach of their governments and local associations,” John and Silvana believed that their movement would function better with a grassroots approach.

With everyone allowed to come to their own conclusions based on the information provided, the strategy appears to have worked. In Vanuatu, coconut crabs are rarely found on menus.

“New or ignorant restaurateurs and some greedy ones persist,” added John. “It’s tough fighting ignorance. The owner of the resort where we built the habitat closed it down shortly after our departure. We just have to keep bringing the facts to the public, then those restaurants will be reminded of the coconut crab plight from their patrons and will have to change their ways. The next stage is then to encourage indigenous inhabitants to see the coconut crab as a tourist attraction and create venues for them to be protected, prosper and generate an income from the accessibility to this fascinating creature by the public.”

More Information

• Read a coconut-crab-conservation-vanuatu written by the Nicholls when working at the White Grass Ocean Resort.
• Read more about the coconut crab on Vanuatu Hotels.
• Read about the Vanuatu Post’s support of coconut crab conservation efforts.

Cape Verde is a fascinating country – an amazing group of islands and mesh of cultures – located about 700km west of Senegal. Still relatively unknown to many travellers, Cape Verde has however been attracting more and more attention, especially from Europeans, who can reach it by plane in only four hours from Lisbon, Portugal. Other flights by TACV Cabo Verde Airlines now also arrive regularly from Africa and the Americas.

Once you find out a little about Cape Verde you will be amazed that it isn’t at the top of many diehard travellers’ must-see lists. With a fusion of Portuguese and African culture all mixed with pinches of other country’s traditions from its days as a shipping-route hotspot, Cape Verde offers a little bit of everything, from marine conservation projects to remote communities preserving unique cultures and food to whet and satisfy any an appetite.

In 2000, on just 5km of beach on Boa Vista Island, more than 1,000 nesting female turtles were tagged by researchers

Marine Turtle Conservation
If you are visiting during July or January, head to Boa Vista Island, where you can get up close and personal with a wildlife conservation project focusing on sea turtles. Cape Verde is home to the second-largest nesting population of loggerhead turtles (Caretta-caretta) in the Atlantic Ocean, and Boa Vista is the place to witness the amazing egg-laying process. On an evening turtle excursion, you are almost 100% guaranteed to see one of these endangered species laying eggs in their native habitat. Conveniently, you can be collected from where you are staying – the Spinguera is a particularly good launching pad for the excursion – and dropped back again afterwards.

Watching a nesting turtle is an unforgettable experience, especially at night

The turtles’ picks of beaches like Boa Esperança in the north and Ervatão and Ponta Cosme in the southeast are the choice locations for turtle-watching activities. Also located at Ervatão is an international field station for the scientific research and conservation of Caretta-caretta.

Rabelados – a Symbol of Resistance
Since the 1940s, the Rabelados of Cape Verde have been an enduring symbol of resistance. Located on the island of Santiago, this group has spent seven decades in the mountains keeping alive their traditions, culture and way of life. They fled into an area famously difficult to access to avoid persecution by the Portuguese colonial authorities whose forced imposition of Christian teachings they opposed. The community still exists today, its customs more or less intact despite the challenges of a difficult environment that takes its toll on their quality of life.

A visit to a Rabelados village is a vision of a unique way of life

Travellers can now visit a Rabelados village, meet with the locals and purchase some of their handmade crafts, such as paintings, sculptures chiseled out of local tree wood and other objects, the sale of which directly benefits the community without compromising the culture.

Incomparable Cachupa
Nothing feels more real in Cape Verde than to sit down with friends and family to enjoy cachupa, a foodie’s delight and the dish most emblematic of Cape Verde culture. Basically a boiled stew, cachupa transcends culinary boundaries. It can consist of corn, beans, vegetables, spices and marinated meat or fish, but the exact ingredients vary from island to island and family to family, secrets that can include certain vegetables and special spices. Never say no to a homemade cachupa, especially when it includes some of the islands’ abundant fresh seafood!

Cachupa – the quintessential Cape Verdean dish

Cachupa is available at almost every eatery in Cape Verde, usually priced at around €1.50 to €2. Locals often eat it for breakfast (called cachupa rafogado), but in the morning leftovers from the night before are cooked again with olives or butter and onion and then sometimes eaten with egges.

Cape Verde Carnivals
The biggest and most impressive celebration in Cape Verde – one sometimes compared to the Brazil’s Carnaval – is the São Vicente Carnival on the island of São Vicente. The island of São Nicolau also has some parades worth checking out, bringing with them plenty of fun, frivolity and energetic music.

When planning travel during party times, book all accommodation and flights a few months in advance. On São Vicente, a  good place to stay is the Oásis Hotel Porto Grande, although there are many good smaller accommodations too.

Colourful costumes during the São Vicente Carnival

For more information about Cape Verde, including accommodations, tours, activities, all your travel needs and lots of insider tips, contact your local whl.travel connection: the team from Executiv Tour at www.capeverde-tours.com.