The Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) are the most famous peaks of the Paine massif in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile, a park that covers 181,414 hectares (448,284 acres) of unique landscapes and is a UNESCO-recognised Biosphere Reserve. Photo © Hernán Torres

The park is one of the nature tourism meccas in Chile. Located in the Chilean Patagonia, it covers a total of 181,414 hectares (448,284 acres) and is among the preferred worldwide destinations for trekking, particularly for its famous five-day ‘W’ circuit (named for the shape of the route). In 1978, Torres del Paine National Park was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, because it is one of the world’s most representative regions of different ecosystem and also provides opportunities to measure human impacts on the environment.

The stark granite rock formations known as the Towers of Paine, the Grey and Dickson glaciers, the numerous waterfalls and lakes, and an abundance of wildlife that includes endangered species such as the condor, the puma and the Huemul deer, are some of the main attractions of this protected area.

Irresponsible Tourists

Unfortunately, the most recent recent conflagration is not the first time that a fire has started as a result of a tourist’s irresponsible conduct. In recent years, three forest fires have affected the park, all of them caused by visitors.

The first one occurred in February 2005, when an inferno that lasted 10 days destroyed more than 13,000 hectares (32,000 acres), or approximately 7 percent of the park. It was sparked by a gas stove used by a Czech tourist in a grassland area where camping was not authorised. The disaster was such that the Czech Republic quickly offered help to restore the damaged sectors and sent Czech experts. The forest cooperation project “Assistance to renew Torres del Paine National Park ecosystems damaged by the fire” ended in December 2010. It ran for five years and included reforestation with 180,000 Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio)plants.

In February 2011, a new fire was again cause for grief. An Israeli tourist who lit a bonfire in an unauthorised area initiated it, although it did not have the same catastrophic consequences because rain helped control the flames. The tourist was expelled from the national park and declared an unwelcome visitor because of his irresponsibility.

Most recently, on December 29, 2011, another Israeli citizen caused the second fire in one year when he tried to burn some toilet paper. The devastation, in this case, was far worse. So much so that volunteers from all over the world came to offer help, including Australian firefighters. Until last week, CONAF– the government agency in charge of managing protected areas in Chile – still had staff putting out blazes in different sectors of the park.

The endangered Huemul deer (Hippocamelus bisulcus) lives in the Chilean and Argentine Patagonia and can sometimes be seen in Torres del Paine National Park. Photo © Hernán Torres

Impacts of the Fire

The native forest that was destroyed comprised trees that grow very slowly and reach maturity only after approximately 200 years. They also need to be protected from the cold and wind during the winter and the dryness during the summer.

Revitalising the scorched areas is therefore not just a matter of replanting small trees, but also of providing them with the required growing conditions. In addition, it’s important to consider that a large part of the fire went underground and affected the area’s soil. Wildlife living in the park will probably return to the damaged sectors only to find them completely barren and will have to move elsewhere in search of food and shelter.

The forced closure of the park also affected the local economy, which depends on income generated by thousands of foreign tourists who visit the area during the high season, between November and February.

It is estimated that tourism business owners lost US$2 million dollars, although this is a preliminary figure that may need to be revised upward. Many local businesses have made great efforts to avoid layoffs because their employees rely on the salaries they obtain during these months.

More than 140,000 tourists travel to Torres del Paine National Park in Chile each year, many to admire the Large Paine Waterfall. Photo © Hernán Torres

Data provided by park authorities shows that, despite the park’s partial reopening, visits dropped 50 percent in January. Thankfully, the Chilean government has allocated resources to support micro and small tourism enterprises in the area and has launched an aggressive international promotion campaign to maintain the flow of visitors to the park in 2012 and 2013.

Who’s to Blame?

This third fire in Torres del Paine caused a flurry of angry comments in social networks and the media, with Chileans demanding that the government change the rules for visitors to national parks, such as forbidding camping, and also allocate more resources to protection. Many people also complained about what was considered to be a slow reaction by the Israeli government to offer help, certainly in comparison to that of the Czech Republic in 2005.

The biggest issue is that Torres del Paineis mainly a destination for foreign tourists. Chilean visitors usually just go for a day trip, since the cost of staying overnight is too expensive for them. Many foreign tourists who also can’t afford to travel to the park with a tour operator and stay at one of the several accommodations available there choose to rent a car to go on their own and to camp.

The Cuernos del Paine (Horns of Paine) are one of the most astounding features of the Paine massif in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park. Photo © Hernán Torres

Those are the riskier visitors, because many of them stay outside of authorised areas. In such cases – faced with inadequate infrastructure – they do whatever they can to be comfortable. Although they generally mean no harm, their limited knowledge of the park’s environmental conditions and their disregard for warnings by park rangers leads them to make wrong decisions.

The Israeli tourist who started this last fire has been forced to stay in the area until the legal investigation is over. He has claimed that there were no warning signs in the national park and that nobody gave him any guidelines. That may be true. National parks in Chile – as in many other countries – suffer from decades of insufficient funding to hire necessary personnel and implement adequate surveillance and prevention measures. Things will probably improve after this devastating fire, but until then it is up to us to act responsibly to ensure that beautiful places such as Torres del Paine National Park are preserved for the enjoyment of future generations.

For incredible vacation packages in Chile, including a five-day discovery tour of Southern Patagonia and Torres del Paine National Park, visit Gunyah.com, the WHL Group’s marketplace for authentic and responsible local travel experiences.

We are nevertheless once again proud to present our Photos of the Year – the travel pictures of the year 2011 that most captured the imagination of The Travel Word team and a group of expert external judges. Unlike our Photo of the Year 2010, this year (2011), we had a tie for first place.

Click on the image below for more information about them. See further below for the judges’ comments about them and the rest of the shortlist.

Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal

Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

About the Photo of the Week and the Photo of the Year

A bit more than two years ago, we started featuring one picture each week (or, lately, every other week) on The Travel Word. We spotlighted favourite images pulled from our growing collections on Flickr.

We then asked the photographer or owner of each selected Photo of the Week to submit a short and revealing text about it – covering the subject of the photo, the general location, the experience of taking the picture, technical aspects of photography etc.

These text-image combinations have proven to be very popular. We believe that this has a lot to do with the special emphasis we have placed on the honesty of the images, all taken or sourced by our partners, who are local travel experts in their destinations. Through their eyes, and given their knowledge of what makes their homes unique, we felt confident that were discovering something special.

The Shortlist

Our methods were decidedly unscientific. For each month, The Travel Word team singled out one photo of the month. To this list of 12 we added afew wild cards that had made a particular impression on us. This shortlist is what we sent to a group of five skilled photographers for their assessment.

Below are the nine images, ranked in order, that caught the judges’ fancies along with their comments. We thank the judges for their contribution and encourage you to learn more about their work.

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+ WINNERS: PHOTOS OF THE YEAR 2011: Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal AND Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

Comments about Krishna Mandir on Krishna Janmashtami, Patan, Nepal, photo and text by Navin M. Shrestha:
“This photo does an excellent job of capturing both the manic movement of the crowd and the ethereal nature of the temple.” — Mike Richards

“Here’s a unique image of the Durbar Square of Patan that not only does a good job of displaying the beauty of the temple of Lord Krisha, but bringing the square to its full cultural context by choosing to photograph it on Krishna Janmashtami (the birth anniversary of Krishna), full of devotees, prayer and a long enough exposure that bleeds the light and gives the scene a more spiritual climate.” — Arog Vila

“This picture is amazing for the fact that at first glance it could reflect a scene dating back centuries. Truly a timeless shot.” — Matt Stabile

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Comments about Cheetahs Posing, Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, photo by Ward Graham, accompanying text by Shafina Bandali:
“Luck is the final element, together with well-studied technique, good planning and plenty of patience, that results in this gorgeous golden-hour capture of two cheetahs looking back at us. This image has a rich tonal range accentuated by a pronounced vignette, which in this case does more than spotlight the cheetahs, it completes the interplay of light within the frame.” — Arog Vila

“Great light, composition and pose, it’s almost tells the viewer that these wild cheetahs are longing for some patting.” — Rafael Pinho

“From a technical perspective, the depth of field and vignetting are just right to single out the pair of cheetahs. They appear curious, ominous and regal all at once.” — Mike Richards

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+ RUNNERS UP: Church of Tisco, Arequipa, Peru AND Beautiful Waters of the Bocas Islands, Panama

Comments about the Church of Tisco, Arequipa, Peru, photo by Alberto Gonzalez, accompanying text by Mariel Gonzalez:
“Travel photography at its best evokes faraway experience in a single image, and this shot of a remote Peruvian church does just that: the totemic ochre ornamentations and roaming landscape transport the viewer to the high fields, far from home.” — Linus Gelber

“Just the right amount of grunge and color provide a contemporary artistic take on a classic stone structure.” — Mike Richards

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Comments about the Beautiful Waters of the Bocas Islands, Panama, photo by ATP, accompanying text by Melissa:
“Transparent green water makes any destination appealing, even if it’s all there is to it. This image portrays the dream-like environment all urbanites long for.” — Rafael Pinho

“I’m a sucker for visions of tropical paradise, probably because I so rarely experience tropical paradise. A jetty with amenities, lifted above clear entrancing waters, with balmy skies above – does it get better than this?” — Linus Gelber

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OTHER FAVOURITES OF OUR JUDGES:

+ Sleepy Lions, Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda, photo by Steve Cunliffe, accompanying text by Nicola Swann

Comment:
“As anyone who has gone on safari knows, finding lions is the ultimate reward, and to find them in such a natural state must have been a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Oddly enough, this also looks like my family’s living room after Thanksgiving dinner.” — Matt Stabile

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+ The Children of Yakel Village, Tanna, Vanuatu, photo and accompanying text by John Nicholls

Comment:
“Seven strange children range along the ladder entrance to a treehouse home on Tanna Island; they may never hold an Xbox controller or argue the merits of teen fashion, but they smile, gaze, consider and go about their business just like children anywhere else. The wild differences highlight that we are, at heart, pretty much the same.” — Linus Gelber

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+ Smile from a Little Girl, Cusco, Peru, photo by Pieter Roos, accompanying text by Fernando Carrasco

Comments:
“This heartwarming portrait of a little girl is technically sound and beautifully communicative of the colorful personality beyond the girl’s colorful costume. An image that is very easy to connect with, well done!” — Arog Vila

“This girl’s amazing smile reminds me of what is truly great about travel: the people.” — Matt Stabile

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+ Migratory Birds, Lijiang, China, photo and accompanying text by Lily Zhang

Comment:
“A skein of geese, which might have just recently taken off, before forming a V, makes this a chaotic but amusing composition where each element has a certain clumsiness to it.” — Rafael Pinho

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The Judges

We sincerely thank our five judges for the time and effort taken to review our shortlist. We value their opinions and their readiness to share them with us. Please take a moment to check out their work.

Linus Gelber is a photographer from New York City, where he shoots cityscapes and live performances (notably burlesque) and sees way too many movies, if such a thing is possible. His work is represented by Getty Images. Linus would like to go to Antarctica one day, and if you knew how he felt about New York winters you’d think that was weird too.

Born in Brazil, Rafael Pinho took up photography after finishing his architecture studies. He set out as a freelancer in 2005 in Belo Horizonte and spent the following years between Berlin, New York, Reykjavík and São Paulo. His work has been shown at the Florence Biennale (2011) and the Biennale di Roma (2012) and appeared in the The Wall Street Journal, Modern Painters (US), Forum AID (Sweden), FFW Mag! (Brazil), Nýtt Líf (Iceland), Trip and Tpm (Brazil).

Mike Richard is the editor of Vagabondish. He lives in Rhode Island – a spit of land in the northeastern US - where he is a professional web designer and travel junkie with an unhealthy addiction to backpacking, camping, hiking and seeing the world. He enjoys knit hats, small, declarative sentences and speaking in the third person.

Matt Stabile founded and runs TheExpeditioner.com, through which you can read his writings, see his videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time.

Arog Vila is a New York-based photographer who developed his unique aesthetic and rule-breaking composition studying at the International Center of Photography, the New School and the School of Visual Arts. He delivers crisp and edgy images of photojournalistic human narrative, pointing his camera on the expected from an entirely new angle, then turning to the unusual and connecting it to something familiar and beautiful.

The immortal words of ‘What a Wonderful World’ made popular by Louis Armstrong somehow take on new significance when delivered as prose by Sir David. Combine their beautiful sentiments with some of the most outstanding footage of the natural wonders our world, and you’ve got a recipe for something very special.

From ocean surf to mountain peak, from jungle heat to polar cool, this short video acts as a sort of a highlight reel for some of Earth’s greatest hits. The sheer number of impressive clips makes it hard to pick favourites, but the glimpse of chimps using tools and the newly hatched turtle heading toward breaking waves are difficult to top.

No matter which you pick, it’s hard to disagree that we really do live in a wonderful world.

Praia do Barra is one of Mozambique's most popular beaches, right at the tip of the peninsula in Inhambane Province. The nearby waters are famous for their huge populations of whale sharks and manta rays. Photo courtesy of Riëtte Stoltz

A trip only a few kilometres outside of Maputo, the capital of Mozambique and a large port city, leads to a number of quiet hidden beaches perfect for snorkelling, diving and fishing. And across Maputo Bay, just far enough to be beyond the horizon, are islands like Portuguese and Inhaca, where isolated retreats provide hours of opportunity for quiet walks and tranquil reflection.

Alternatively, when you feel like sinking your feet into something other than sand, there’s a world of African wildlife waiting in the south of country. Right on the South African border, 100 kilometres south of Maputo, lies Kruger National Park, one of the best places in Africa to spot the ‘Big Five’ – lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards and rhinoceros – animals that old-time hunters used to risk life and limb to shoot.

Of course, there are plenty of things to see and do in Maputo itself. With impressive colonial architecture, the city lends itself to wandering along cobblestone streets, sipping coffee at local cafés and perusing colourful downtown markets. A tour of the Mafalala district opens windows onto Mozambique’s more recent and turbulent past, putting the country’s rich ethnic and cultural diversity into historical perspective.

A beautiful sunset behind the Matola Rio Bridge. Linking the Matola suburbs with Maputo, the capital city of Mozambique, the bridge is heavily used by both commuters and by travellers on their way to neighbouring Swaziland and South Africa. Photo courtesy of Riëtte Stoltz

As Mozambique continues to navigate its post-war development, effort is being put into building better infrastructure, like the good mix of Mozambique accommodation. Many Maputo hotels, like the Cardoso Hotel, realise the importance of connecting business development with community development and are actively involved in the local Maputo non-profit sector. A number of Mozambique spas and resorts are gaining popularity as well. Resorts like Indigo Bay balance diving and other water-sport activities against community involvement, an important part of creating successful ecologically and socially minded enterprises.

Natalie Tenzer-Silvia and her team at Dana Tours, the new whl.travel local partner in Mozambique, are no strangers to the community development that is so central to Mozambique’s success. In addition to organising a number of Mozambique tours and running their own Mozambique transport company, Dana Tours is actively involved in hosting volunteers through programs that connect North American students with hands-on learning experiences in Mozambique orphanages.

In Mozambique, a mother does her washing in the river near the Pequenos Libombo dam with her baby asleep on her back. The dam, near the Swaziland border, is a popular spot with the local community. Photo courtesy of Riëtte Stoltz

Dana Tours has been in operation since 2002 and Natalie is very excited to be expanding her business with the whl.travel family. “One of the attractions of joining whl.travel is that I will be dealing with the clients directly,” says Natalie. “So often we don’t get a feel for what the client really wants because there are agents in between us who don’t really know much about Mozambique and what it has to offer – though this is no fault of the agent. There is not much available in the way of tourist information about Mozambique. By dealing directly with the client, we can elicit exactly what he expects to accomplish, and ensure that we realise his dreams.”

The new Mozambique Web portal at www.tourmozambique.travel joins a growing list of whl.travel websites in Southern Africa.

The Maliau Basin rainforest in Sabah, Borneo, Malaysia, encompasses an area of 390 square kilometres, but the land is so wild that it has never been continuously inhabited by humans. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

Today, the Maliau is awaiting UNESCO World Heritage Site status, which would help with conservation efforts. Funding is required to support initiatives like the construction of a network of trails that would allow small group treks to explore this unspoilt jungle accompanied by a local guide.

The ‘Lost World’ of Sabah

Surrounded by steep and forbidding slopes on all sides, the basin, which covers an area slightly larger than Singapore, is unapproachable on foot. There are no roads, only winding rivers and a lush tropical rainforest. The inaccessibility has kept this remote paradise hidden from humankind for millions of years. It was first spotted in 1947, when a British pilot flying from the west coast of Sabah to Tawau nearly ran into the steep cliff rising over 915 metres above the jungle floor. Maliau Basin has since been dubbed Sabah’s ‘Lost World’ due to its unique and mysteriously intact biodiversity.

The land of Maliau Basin has never been permanently inhabited. Although the people of the Murut tribe arrange yearly hunting trips into the area, they are the only regular visitors and no record or proof of their settlement exists in the forbidding basin. In fact, to date, only 25 percent of the entire area has been mapped.

The whole basin is one single water catchment and drains through a canyon in the south by one river, the Maliau River, which flows out into the Kuamut River, eventually joining Sabah’s largest and most important waterway, the Kinabatangan River. Back in Maliau, there are over 30 waterfalls – the most famous of which is the spectacular seven-tiered, 28-metre cascade known as Maliau Falls – making it the most waterfall-rich area in Malaysia.

With over 30 waterfalls, Sabah's Maliau Basin on Borneo is the most waterfall-rich area in all of Malaysia. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

Daring to Enter

Today, intrepid travellers up for a challenge can arrange a visit to this real ‘lost world.’ Maliau Basin contains over 70 kilometres of trails, and visitors must be accompanied by a guide at all times. To trek the land of Maliau Basin requires good physical fitness as the trails range from easy to steep and the terrain can be challenging.

Though a porter is provided to carry food supplies, hikers are responsible for carting in their own personal belongings and water, unless they are willing to pay an extra fee for additional porters. Exhaustion may take its toll gradually, but it is best to stay focused upon the various species of flora dwelling throughout this unexplored haven. Trekkers stay at campsites equipped with basic facilities where one’s guide is officially the ‘jungle chief.’

The basin is incredibly rich in botanical wonders. It contains no less than 12 distinct forest types, including Upland Sandy Clay, Agathis Tree, Riparian, Montane Heath and Floodplain. There are an estimated 1,800 tree species in Maliau Basin, where 54 are currently listed as endangered or close to extinction. Among the flora that can be found here are 75 dipterocarp species, nepenthes, rhododendrons and rafflesia flowers, as well as at least 80 rare and endemic orchids. Nine species of carnivorous pitcher plant can also be found living in the very low nutrient soils of Maliau.

Although much of the terrain remains unexplored, Maliau Basin has already revealed itself to have the most complex interaction of wildlife on the planet. Over 82 mammal species has been recorded so far, many of them endangered like the Sumatran rhino, Asian elephant, clouded leopard, Malayan sun bear, orangutan, sambar and barking deer, bearded pigs, banteng, civet and the wild ox that has been extinct in peninsular Malaysia for over half a century.

Trekking through the thick vegetation and wild terrain of Sabah's Maliau Basin on Borneo, Malaysia, requires the help of a local tour guide. It also requires good physical condition and a good sense of adventure. Photo courtesy of Borneo Eco Tours

To date, an impressive 300 species of bird have also been found, including the endemic Bulwer’s pheasant and Bornean bristlehead. No less than one quarter of the bird species found in Maliau Basin is listed as threatened by IUCN (the International Union for Conservation of Nature).

Protecting the Mega Biodiversity of Maliau Basin

In 1997, the Sabah State Assembly announced Maliau Basin as a Class 1 Protection Forest Reserve and increased its size to 588 square kilometres, adding additional forested areas to the north and the east of the basin. Maliau received further protection in 1999 when it earned status as a cultural heritage site under the state’s Cultural Heritage and Conservation Enactment.

These days, efforts are underway to make Maliau Basin Malaysia’s third UNESCO World Heritage Site after the historic cities of Melaka and Georgetown on the Straits of Malacca. Earlier this year, the prime minister of Malaysia, Datuk Seri Najib Tun Razak, paid a visit to the rainforest. He has high hopes for Maliau Basin’s inscription into the list of official UNESCO sites. He observes that an international level of attention and protection afforded by an institution like UNESCO would help keep Maliau unspoilt for important scientific research that is already underway. He also noted that UNESCO status would attract more of the right kind of tourism to the area.

Find out more about braving the lost world of Maliau Basin rainforest on a trekking expedition of a lifetime. Contact Albert and the team at Borneo Eco Tours, the whl.travel local connection in Borneo, Malaysia.

Spread across south-central Brazil and covering an area larger than the island of Great Britain, the Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland. Running through the state of Mato Grosso, North Pantanal comprises a delicate ecosystem that benefits from dual seasons of flooding and droughts. The intense rains that deluge the region annually give way to a dry season during which grasslands thrive and support over 70 species of mammals.

Seasonal floods of the North Pantanal region of Brazil make for lush, green vegetation that supports over 70 species of mammals and hundreds of different kinds of birds and fish. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

The local human residents of the region fit into the all-embracing ecosystem as well. Cattle ranchers graze their stock on the abundance of green grass that shoots up during the dry season and the annual floods support one of the largest fishing areas in the world. In fact, in addition to nature appreciation, fishing is a big draw for visitors interested in several types of ‘big game’ fish amongst the 262 species inhabiting the region’s freshwater basins.

But fishing is just one of many outdoor activities in North Pantanal. Numerous tours through the wetlands provide a chance to observe native species, such as cayman alligators, jaguars and parrots, in the wild, while resource centres like the Refugio Ecolologico Caiman guide guests to a better understanding of the preservation and conservation processes underway to bolster and protect the region’s incredible biodiversity. The distinctly blue hyacinth macaw and famous jaguar are just two species that the centre has made great strides in helping to sustain.

A wide variety of hotels and lodgings in North Pantanal facilitate overnighting in the midst of one of Brazil’s foremost ecological wonders. The hosts at many lodges understand the potential impact that increased tourism can have in the region and have endeavoured to structure their hotels around sustainable practices. Pousada Rio Claro, for example, partners with local craftsmen and artisans, and bridges the divide between local residents and guests by developing events, lectures and workshops centred on Pantanal culture.

José Namen, the whl.travel local connection in North Pantanal, is no stranger to the process of integrating tourist infrastructure into nature’s delicate balance in North Pantanal. A Pantanal-born native, Namen understands the complexity of the interwoven systems – both those within the wetlands themselves and those astride the wetlands and the people who live there.

In North Pantanal, Brazil, a group of horseback riders moves through an area of blossoming Ipê trees during their short, seasonal blooming. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

As Namen states, “Lucas, my business partner, and I come from a family of traditional farmers in the Pantanal. Therefore, we learned to respect and love the impressive fauna and the astonishing landscapes of this amazing ecosystem, as well as the people who live here and their strong culture.”

For instance, on the one hand, he has advocated for regulating angling practices to protect certain species from overfishing and extinction; on the other hand, he understands that fishing is a central way of life for many local residents and that making changes to one part of the system can have unintended effects on another. Armed with this nuanced approach, he advocates for educational programs and the development of alternative sources of income for families that rely on the Pantanal for survival.

“We are excited about our partnership with whl.travel because we share the same view that tourism should help to protect the environment and promote the local people and their culture through the creation of jobs and the injection of resources into the local economy,” continues Namen. “We are sure that whl.travel will help us in marketing the Pantanal to the global market as an important touristic destination, and that we’ll succeed in achieving our goals.”

Pantanal Norte joins an ever-growing list of successful whl.travel destinations in Brazil, including South Pantanal.

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EM PORTUGUÊS / IN PORTUGUESE:

Localizado no centro-oeste brasileiro, cobrindo uma área maior que a Inglaterra, o pantanal é a maior área de terras alagadas do mundo. Percorrendo o estado do Mato Grosso, o Pantanal Norte compreende um delicado ecossistema que se modifica em função de duas temporadas ou estações, a época da cheia e alagamentos e a época de seca ou estiagem. A chuva intensa que cai anualmente e inunda sua vasta área, abre caminho para a temporada seca onde as áreas verdes prosperam e dão suporte para mais de 70 espécies de mamíferos.

A group of caymen alligators, native to the North Pantanal region of Brazil, gather at the water's edge. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

As pessoas que moram na região adaptam suas vidas da maneira que o ecossistema da região exige e levam a vida de acordo com o que ele proporciona. Criadores de gado criam seus rebanhos na abundancia de pastagens que crescem durante a temporada seca que sucede a cheia anual devida a época das chuvas intensas. Chuvas que dão suporte para uma das áreas de maior ocorrência de peixes do mundo, adicionando a apreciação da natureza, a pesca, um grande atrativo para visitantes interessados nas várias espécies de grandes peixes dentre as 262 espécies que ocorrem na região.

A pesca de peixes grandes é somente uma das varias atividades no Pantanal Norte. Diferentes passeios pelas terras alagadas proporcionam a chance de conhecer espécies nativas como os jacarés, onças pintadas, araras azuis e outros animais em seu habitat natural. Ao mesmo tempo, centros de recursos como o Refugio Ecológico Caiman mostram aos turistas um melhor entendimento do processo de preservação e conservação em andamento para proteção da incrível biodiversidade da região. A Rara Arara Azul e a famosa Onça Pintada são apenas duas das espécies que o centro trabalha para preservar e, neste sentido, já fez grandes avanços.

A ampla variedade de hotéis e alojamentos no Pantanal Norte facilita o pernoite em meio a uma das maiores maravilhas ecológicas brasileiras. Os anfitriões de muitas hospedagens sabem do grande impacto que o turismo tem na região e vem se esforçando para estruturar seus hotéis baseados em praticas sustentáveis. A Pousada Rio Claro, por exemplo, parceiros de artesões locais estreitam o relacionamento entre nativos da região e turistas, desenvolvendo eventos, palestras e oficinas centrados na cultura Pantaneira.

José Namen, a conexão da WHL no Pantanal Norte não é estranho no processo de integração da infraestrutura turística com a delicada natureza do Pantanal Norte. Um nativo pantaneiro, Namen entende a complexidade dos sistemas interligados, tanto os das áreas alagáveis, quanto os montados pelas pessoas que ali vivem.

The Ipê tree is iconic of the Pantanal of Brazil. Blossoms may be bright pink, yellow or white. Flourishing in September, the colours only last for about week, seeming to explode rather than blossom. Photo courtesy of Luiz Peixoto

Como Namen fala, “Lucas, meu parceiro neste negocio e eu viemos de uma tradicional família de fazendeiros do Pantanal. Com isso, nós aprendemos a respeitar e a amar a fauna e as impressionantes paisagens deste surpreendente ecossistema, juntamente com seu povo nativo e sua forte cultura.”

Como exemplo, por um lado ele defende a regulamentação da pratica da pesca esportiva para a proteção de certas espécies da pesca excessiva. Por outro lado, ele entende que a pesca é o principal meio de vida para muitos dos moradores locais e que, intercedendo em uma parte do sistema, pode causar importantes consequências não intencionais em outra. Armado com essa diferenciada abordagem, ele defende programas educacionais para desenvolvimento de meios alternativos de fontes de renda para as famílias que dependem do pantanal para sobreviver.

“Estamos animados com a parceria com a whl.travel pois compartilhamos a mesma crença de que o turismo deve ajudar a preservar o meio ambiente e promover os moradores da região e sua cultura através da criação de empregos e da injeção de recursos na economia local,” completa Namen. “ Temos certeza de que a whl.travel nos ajudará a promover o Pantanal para o mercado mundial como um importante destino turístico e que com isso vamos conseguir alcançar nossos objetivos.”

O Pantanal Norte se junta a uma crescente lista de destinos brasileiros bem sucedidos da whl.travel, incluindo Pantanal Sul.

On the occasion when this picture was taken, we were visiting the park, staying at Gorah Elephant Camp, one of the luxury camps found within the park, and were on an afternoon safari. We came across these lions a few hundred meters from the camp. They were on their way to the camp to overnight with two other lionesses and the big dominant male, which was on the periphery. The young male shown here was reaching an age at which he would be kicked out of the pride fairly soon and was probably savouring the last few weeks or months with his family.

During the evening we enjoyed dinner and then were escorted to our tented rooms for the night by our ranger. We heard the pride of lions all night, grunting and roaring, clearly letting the rest of the animal kingdom know where they were and who was “King of the Addo”. Early the next morning, we found the pride again on our safari; they were very relaxed and did not seem very interested in moving on. Lions do sleep about 20 hours of the day away, so it was no surprise.

Visiting the Addo National Park is a must for any visitor venturing up or down the Garden Route of South Africa, as it offers a fantastic opportunity to enjoy a safari before or after the scenic drive along our southeastern coastline. Various accommodations, from budget to luxury, can be found around the Addo National Park, as well as in Port Elizabeth, as the park is only about 80 kilometres from the “Friendly City”, as it is locally known.

“Load up quick, bad weather, come very quick!”

These are the last words you ever want to hear when you are a passenger in a tiny 20-seater plane flying into the rainforest. As the engines whirred into life, I wondered for a split second whether or not I’d bought enough supplies to last a trek to the nearest village should the plane crash. Risky or not, the flight into the interior of Sarawak only served to highlight the nature of the trip that was to come – remote and, at this point, reckless.

Ceremonial first tree planting of the project "Picnic with the Penan" in Borneo. Photo courtesy of Picnic with the Penan

Last month I headed out on a tiny plane into the interior of Borneo to spend 10 days with the Penan. The Penan are one of the indigenous peoples of Sarawak and were, until recently, the only people to live a nomadic lifestyle within the rainforest. Today, most Penan have settled in villages where they primarily cultivate the land yet still utilize their hunter-gatherer skills to supplement their diet.

I visited two villages that are part of a project called Picnic with the Penan (PWTP). PWTP is a community tourism project that is run by the Penan, and which helps to fund a tree-planting project in areas that were badly burnt in El Nino fires in 1998. In the summer mass fruiting of 2009, there was a once-in-10-year opportunity to easily collect thousands of seeds to plant – knowing that this was coming, the villages sought outside help to fund a nursery and labor costs.

Penan elder making a blow pipe. Photo courtesy of Picnic with the Penan

They realized that by planting species of Meranti, Kapor and some Shorea species, in the future they would be able to selectively use some of the new trees for building, therefore leaving untouched the rare old-growth forest that still exists further from the villages. This project has gone from strength to strength and many saplings are now ready to plant, but the longevity of the project depends on consistent funding and PWTP is still seeking help to ensure the success in this project.

The PWTP projects are facilitated by volunteers who live outside of the villages and have access to the internet and phones, completing administrative tasks that cannot be done in the villages due their remote location. However, all the money that is spent goes directly to the Penan themselves, meaning that you pay your guide/porter/host directly rather than through a middleman. What is interesting about this initiative is that it is run as a co-operative; there is no hierarchy and all decisions are made in village meetings whereby each villager has an equal voice. This serves to create a sense that the project truly belongs to everyone.

One of the many perks of this particular trip is that it remains off the beaten track. With the PWTP program, it is unlikely that you will cross paths with any other travellers for the duration of your stay. Travellers should keep in mind that tourism is new to this area, so if you are expecting five-star amenities, think again! However, if you can approach this unique experience with an open mind, and are willing to make do with relatively basic conditions, then you will surely find it to be enriching and extremely enlightening.

My plan was to enjoy this trip solo, although I did have some concerns about travelling to this remote place on my own (getting on the aforementioned plane didn’t help). However, as soon as I arrived in the village and was greeted by my guide and porter, I realized that I had nothing to worry about. Even though they spoke only a bit of English, my friendly guides successfully managed to make me forget my initial trepidation about our adventurous 3-day trek to the villages.

The Penan may be quite shy when you first meet them, but based on my experience they will open up after a few hours. Soon they will be proudly showing you around the local forests, demonstrating their incredible span of knowledge. In fact, during one of our hikes, I was shocked to find out that my guide had never walked the route we were taking before – he seemed to know where the trails were even when there was no discernible track to follow!

My guide, Paul, was very eager to show me the medicinal plants used by the Penan and it seemed that they were everywhere – almost every small shrub we walked past had some use. It’s not surprising then that the Penan do not see the forest as a monetary resource so much as their whole life, their larder and their hospital. As such, the forest must be kept intact so that future generations and their culture can survive. In a much wider sense, this need to preserve the world’s rainforests can be extended to all of humanity.

Punting down from the Penan village. Photo courtesy of Picnic with the Penan

In this regard, PWTP has empowered the villages, and increasingly there is a real sense that they can do something about their own destinies. PWTP has provided these two villages with an income, which means that in time, there will be more of an incentive for the younger generation to stay in the villages and maintain the traditional connection the Penan have with the rainforest.

Though they have lived a subsistence lifestyle for so long, money has become a necessity in recent years. Ironically this may be the resource that allows the Penan to maintain their way of life. With the funds from the ‘community fee,’ the villagers can decide together how to improve their lives, whether be by replanting hardwoods in areas of damaged rainforest or creating wet rice paddies to provide a stable food supply.

After many years of hearing disheartening news about the Penan, it is really encouraging to see that this Penan-run project is bringing about positive changes that will, in time, provide the stability needed to continue their traditional way of life for future generations.

The dizzying melting pot of Delhi, the quiet canal-lined streets of ancient Kochi and the magnificent Taj Mahal, a World Heritage Site, are just three highlights that travellers have visited for centuries. Countless other local sights are just as captivating to anyone who ventures just off the tourist trail.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of the white-marble Taj Mahal is, with SS Travels, just a short ride away from the Indian capital of Delhi. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Friar's Balsam

Worry-free and Also Green

When faced with the vast distances to cover in India and so many worthwhile places to explore, however, you may find that planning travel in India can be overwhelming. Fortunately, one local company can take all the hassle out of getting around in India – helping travellers arrange transport that is comfortable and worry-free. Now they can do it in an environmentally responsible manner as well.

Since 1991, the experts at SS Travels have always used their first-hand local knowledge to bring a high level of luxury service to ground transportation in India. But the SS Travel quality promise hit a new high when they joined the growing ranks of local partners part of a new, global, environmentally friendly transfer service called Green Path Transfers. In keeping with the Green Path Transfers 100%-carbon-offset policy, SS Travels is poised to deliver reliable transfers to ever greater numbers of passengers keen to go green.

The reliable transfer service offered by SS Travels provides ground transport throughout India, including such cities as Delhi, Bangalore and Kochi. Photo courtesy of SS Travels

“We want to keep the environment of India clean and green,” explains Anil Kumar, Marketing Director of SS Travels. “Together with Green Path Transfers we look forward to demonstrating to the world our responsible outlook towards society.”

“It’s great to see a company in India offering such unparalleled service, whilst at the same time having a strong interest and focus on being eco-friendly,” commented Adrian Cordiner, CEO of Green Path Transfers.

An Established Local Leader

Launched with just one single car, SS Travels has since grown into a far-reaching transfer-service provider with over 600 modern, stylish and fuel-efficient vehicles. Renowned for its high quality transportation services, the company’s personalised and professional approach caters to both leisure and corporate travellers.

Today, SS Travels also maintains strong partnerships with airlines such as Air India, Gulf Air, Emirates Airlines and Malaysia Airlines as a proven purveyor of prompt and reliable airport transfers and hotel pickups in cities such as Delhi, Bangalore and Kochi.

The picturesque town of Alleppey in southern India has numerous canals and backwaters and is know as the

Comfortable and Reliable Rides

Placing special emphasis on ensuring that travellers’ ground transportation plans are secure, SS Travels offers 24-hour, seven-day reservation and operations services. In addition, SS Travels works only with carefully selected, well-trained, English-speaking chauffeurs who can demonstrate expert knowledge of local roads and vehicle safety measures.

Clients can choose from among a wide range of economy vehicles, luxury sedans or SUVs, all kept up to date thanks to a fleet change every three years. This helps SS Travels ensure its vehicles are highly fuel efficient and come equipped with all the modern conveniences, including extras like newspapers and magazines.

Enchanting Attractions of India

With one simple online reservation, tourists and business travellers alike can now easily arrange airport pickups, event transfers and ground transportation in India.

The area around the Kabini River, a recommended destination by the SS Travels team, is a popular site for elephant watching. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Pondspider

For visitors with a little time to spare, SS Travel drivers are fonts of knowledge about interesting sights easily accessible by vehicle. For instance, Mr. Kumar suggests that anyone arriving in Delhi should not skip a visit to Agra, site of the monumental white-marbled Taj Mahal, or Shimla with its beautiful old colonial buildings. Further afield, another excellent stopover is the ruined royal palace that towers over the mountain town of Leh.

If you’ve got even more time, Mr. Kumar recommends a visit to Ooty, a beautiful hill station in the Blue Mountains close to Bangalore; the Kabini River for its incredible wildlife viewing and frequent herds of elephants; and the lovely town Alleppey, which is known as the Venice of the East and is “all about house boats and beautiful trees in and around the backwaters.”

To learn more about Green Path Transfers and how to be part of carbon-neutral travel arrangements that emphasise green technology in a growing number of destinations around the globe, visit www.GreenPathTransfers.com.

Fes, Morocco, is considered one of the holiest cities in the Islamic world. Parts of it barely changed since it was founded at the beginning of the 9th century by Moulay Idriss II, this enchanting city has been a seat of government, philosophy, medicine, music and religion for more than a millennium. In fact, Fes is considered one of the best surviving examples of an ancient Arab city. It comprises the ‘new’ city, established in the 12th century, and the much more ancient medina, a market where goods-laden donkeys and mules still amble alongside buyers.

One highlight of visiting Fez, Morocco, is the panoramic view of the ancient city from a rooftop or other high point like the Merenid Tombs. Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

Visitors enjoying this amazing car-free zone will encounter a fascinating maze of lanes, blind alleys and bustling souks (markets) assaulting the senses with spices and exotic delicacies. With so much on display, it is the perfect place to sharpen your bargaining skills while buying souvenirs, brightly coloured hand-loomed carpets or fine-crafted artisanal goods. Also not to be missed are the famous leather tanneries – a honeycomb of vats erupting in an explosion of brilliant colour – and the venerated Merenid Tombs, where the spectacular panoramic views of Fes defy words.

Day Trips

An exciting day trip from Fes begins at Meknes, one of Morocco’s ‘Imperial Cities’ and a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site complete with lush rolling hills studded with ancient olive groves and vineyards. After a pleasant lunch in this holy city of Moulay Idriss, you can explore the spectacular arched gateways of Bab El Mansour and Bab El Khamis. Then the tour is off to the ancient Roman ruins of Volubulis, where the remains of palaces, baths, soaring arches and magnificent mosaics await discovery on a wildflower-dotted hillside.

Bab Boujloud is one of most famous gateways into the old city of Fez, Morocco. Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

Another compelling day trip lets you explore the Middle Atlas Mountains of Morocco, where a hidden, fragrant cedar forest is filled with chatty Barbary macaques and the mountainsides are home to many rustic Berber villages. Here is where to make a wish by a rushing waterfall or stroll the banks of a placid lake in one of many pleasant parks. At the weekly market in Azrou, you’ll discover fine wooden handicrafts and handmade Berber rugs.

Shopping

Shopping in Fes can be a high-intensity experience. In Morocco, bargaining is a way of life, so always remember that the price you are initially offered will be highly inflated and that it’s up to you to ask for lower. When negotiating with vendors, surrounded by the noise and confusion of the market, you may at first find it difficult to gain confidence and stand your ground, but with a little bit of practice, the haggling process becomes a captivating part of the Moroccan experience.

Handcrafted silver plates like these ones are used for serving biscuits along with tea in Morocco. They can be found in any city's labyrinthine souk (market). Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

Striking a good deal is well worth your while, though, as Fes is world-renowned for its handcrafted Moroccan decorative items, such as textiles, rugs, antiques, hand-woven and embroidered shawls, Berber cushions, handmade garments, leather, wood and much more.

Restaurants

It would take ages to visit all the good places to enjoy the amazing traditional Moroccan cuisine in Fes. To narrow it down: some of the best restaurants are Yacout, Medina and La Maison Arabe. If you wish to try local food while rubbing shoulders with the people of Fes, eat your fill at the small shops of the souk in the ancient city.

Local Treats

Fes is known for the strong presence of Sufism. We still have Sufis who get together every once in a while at someone’s house for a special musical event. Contact us about attending one of these events.

In the famous leather tanneries of Fez, Morocco, hundreds of pots of dye are used in the leather tanning process. Photo courtesy of Marrakesh Voyage

We can also help you to experience the Moroccan culinary scene by going to the market to do your own shopping for all the ingredients needed for a cooking class at one of our Moroccan guesthouses. Learn how to make couscous, chicken with lemon, lamb with prune or chicken pastilla.

Night Out

The best place to relax during the daytime is a local café at the souk. Watch the people wander by, each with his own story, as you sip a cup of coffee or tea with the locals. As Fes is a sacred town, the evenings are best spent dining on some of the best food in the country at a local restaurant or on the rooftop of a guesthouse. You just won’t find the kind of nightlife for which places like Agadir, Casablanca or Marrakech are known.

Are you planning your trip to Morocco? For a real insider experience in Fes, reach out to Akim and his team at Marrakesh Voyage, the whl.travel and Urban Adventures local partner in Fes.

At the heart of Indonesia’s South Sulawesi territory lies the vibrant provincial capital of Makassar. Formerly known as Ujung Pandang, the city has for centuries made its mark in Indonesian history as a bustling port. Today it’s a sprawling metropolis, still rich in history and culture – a perfect gateway from which to discover the rest of South Sulawesi and East Indonesia.

These 'Pinisi' can be found at Paotere sailing boat harbour, one of the points of interest in Makassar, Indonesia. Many pinisi are now used as live-aboard boats for tourism purposes in Indonesian waters, especially for diving. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Of particular interest is Tana Toraja, or “Torajaland,” a highland region that sits peacefully in the mountains more than 300 kilometres north of Makassar. This “Land of Heavenly Kings” is home to the indigenous Toraja people, who are known for their unique funeral rites, traditional houses with high-peaked roofs called tongkonan and their friendly and hospitable nature.

As a base of operations, though, the city of Makassar has something to offer to urbanites and outdoor enthusiasts alike. In town, a Makassar city tour takes visitors to see the most important cultural and historical icons, such as Fort Rotterdam, which was built during the Gowa/Makassar Kingdom in the 15th century and taken over by the Dutch in 17th century, Katangka Mosque, the oldest in the city, and Paotere Harbour, where you will find the traditional Pinisi sailboats.

The nature reserve of Bantimurung, located a short distance from Makassar, provides a snapshot of Sulawesi’s captivating natural beauty, while the Leang-Leang Caves, which can be covered as part of the same tour, opens a window into the lives of some of mankind’s ancient ancestors. Alternatively, sun-seekers can opt for a visit to Samalona Island, one of several neighbouring isles where guests can spend a day toasting under the sun on a powdery white-sand beach or go skin diving amongst thriving coral reefs. These are just a few of the many things to see and do in Makassar.

Of course, even further afield, various Tana Toraja tours allow travellers to immerse themselves in the traditional village life of the Toraja people, see the ancient graves where they bury their dead and walk through the region’s extensive, picturesque rice paddies.

A village of traditional Toraja houses, called Tongkonan houses, found in Tana Toraja highlands of Sulawesi, about 300 kilometres north of Makassar, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

The new portal to Makassar and Toraja is now proudly owned by Ng Sebastian and the rest of his team at Incito Tours, also the local connection in nearby Komodo and the Lesser Sunda Islands. The launch of www.makassar-hotels.com gives travellers direct access to Makassar and Toraja hotels for every budget, as well as insight into the best places for shopping and eating, all of which contribute to an ideal getaway experience.

“Makassar and Toraja are destinations I know well as I live in Makassar and I started my tourism involvement here back in 1987 as a tour guide,” Sebastian gladly shares. “Makassar is my home base and my involvement in tourism at the destination is far more extensive than what I started 24 years ago. My whole life since then seems to be devoted to tourism, not only as a field where I earn my living, but also where I share my passion with others to make the destination better developed through my participation in various tourism activities. Operating the Makassar & Toraja portal, I talk about tourism but also take action in serving would-be visitors through the latest tourism trend: the use of information technology in planning the trips. whl.travel provides a great platform to work with, and there is always someone to help us out.”

Makassar is whl.travel’s newest travel portal in Indonesia, adding to those for Aceh, Manado and Komodo & Lesser Sunda Islands.

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IN INDONESIAN / DALAM BAHASA INDONESIA:

Datanglah ke Makassar dan Toraja – Indonesia bersama whl.travel

Di jantung Indonesia terletak Makassar, Ibukota Propinsi Sulawesi Selatan. Makassar adalah salah satu kota dengan pertumbuhan ekonomi tertinggi di Indonesia. Ini tidak mengherankan karena Makassar yang dulu sempat dinamakan Ujung Pandang ini adalah Bandar Perdagangan yang ramai sejak berabad silam. Saat ini Makassar adalah kota metropolitan yang terus tumbuh dengan warisan budaya yang kaya serta latar belakang sejarah yang kuat. Makassar adalah pintu gerbang yang ideal untuk menjelajahi Sulawesi Selatan, Pulau Sulawesi dan Indonesia Timur pada umumnya.

This closeup of the facade of a Tongkonan House shows some of the characteristic items, each of which is important in the Toraja culture of Sulawesi, Indonesia. There are more than 100 Toraja house-engraving patterns, each of which has a name and a meaning. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Berjalan ke utara anda akan menemukan Tana Toraja, yang bertengger di ketinggian pegunungan di jantung Sulawesi, sekitar 328 km dari Makassar. Tana Toraja yang dinamakan juga sebagai “Tondok Lepongan Bulan, Tana Matarik Allo” ini terkenal karena keunikan budayanya yang terjelma dalam Rumah Tongkonan, upacara penguburan serta masyarakatnya yang ramah dan bersahabat.

Makassar menawarkan daya tarik perkotaan dan juga aneka kegiatan luar ruang bagi pengunjungnya. City Tour Makassar mengantarkan wisatawan ke berbagai Ikon Kota Makassar seperti Fort Rotterdam yang dibangun oleh Raja – raja Gowa tetapi kemudian diambil alih oleh Belanda pada tahun 1667 setelah perang selama 7 tahun, Mesjid Katangka dan juga Pelabuhan Paotere dengan Perahu Pinisinya.

Melangkah sedikit ke Timur dari Makassar anda akan memasuki Bantimurung yang merupakan etalase keindahan alam dari Taman Nasional Bantimurung Bulusaraung (Babul) dengan air terjun, hutan tropis, gua – gua eksotis serta kupu – kupunya. Berdekatan dengan Bantimurung anda akan menemukan Gua Leang – Leang di mana anda seperti menengok dari jendela ke kehidupan prasejarah. Semua ini terangkum dalam tour yang sama. Sementara bagi anda yang suka dengan keceriaan di pantai dan laut, Pulau Samalona dan pulau lain di sekitarnya menanti dengan pasir putih dan air yang jernih serta keindahan bawa lautnya mengundang anda untuk menikmatinya. Semua ini hanya bagian kecil dari aneka Daya Tarik Makassar.

Aneka Paket Wisata Toraja memungkinkan pengunjung untuk merasuk jauh kedalam kehidupan Toraja dengan daya tarik budayanya yang erat berkaitan dengan penghargaan yang tinggi kepada nenek moyang melalui kuburan dan upacara pemakaman. Alam Toraja yang menawan dengan pemandangannya yang indah dan persawahan yang memikat mengundang pelintas alam menikmatinya.

A Toraja girl in traditional costume, Sulawesi, Indonesia. Photo courtesy of Ng Sebastian

Portal Makassar dan Toraja sekarang dimiliki oleh Ng Sebastian dan timnya di Incito Tour yang juga merupakan pemilik dari Portal Komodo & Kepulauan Nusa Tenggara. Peluncuran www.makassar-hotels.com memungkinkan pengunjung mendapat gambaran yang lebih jelas tentang berbagai Hotel di Makassar dan Toraja. Pengunjung juga ditunjukan tempat – tempat belanja dan makan terbaik sehingga melengkapi pengalaman perjalanan.

“Makassar dan Toraja adalah destinasi yang saya kenal dengan baik karena saya tinggal di Makassar serta keterlibatan saya dalam dunia kepariwisataan dimulai di sini pada tahun 1987 sebagai Pramuwisata”. Demikian dikatakan Sebastian. “Makassar adalah di mana saya berada dan keterlibatan saya dalam dunia pariwisata destinasi ini jauh lebih luas daripada apa yang saya mulai 24 tahun lalu. Sejak itu kehidupan saya tercurah dalam kepariwisataan tidak hanya sebagai lahan tempat saya menghidupi diri tetapi juga tempat di mana saya berbagi dengan sesama untuk memajukan kepariwisataan di destinasi ini. Dengan meluncurkan Portal Makassar dan Toraja saya tidak hanya berbicara tetapi juga berbuat langsung dalam melayani calon wisatawan melalui trend perencanaan perjalanan paling mutakir, yaitu penggunaan Teknologi Informasi (Internet). Whl.travel mempunyai platform sistem yang andal dan selalu ada orang yang bisa ditanyai jika menemukan persoalan”.

Makassar adalah portal di Indonesia yang paling baru untuk melengkapi portal lain yang telah ada sebelumnya yaitu Aceh, Manado dan Komodo & Kepulauan Nusa Tenggara.

The One Day on Earth project began in 2008, with the vision of uniting the entire world in a single film-related project. The potential for collaboration offered by the internet is something that continues to be explored to this day, but the group behind One Day on Earth set out to achieve something that had never been seen before: a collection of moments, experiences and events from all corners of the globe with a single unifying experience – they all took place on the same day.

The 10th of October 2010 (10/10/10) was the distinctive date chosen to be documented in never-before-seen detail by crews from around the world. The beauty and diversity displayed in every country on the planet was captured for all to see. It has now been compiled into a full-length feature. You can view the trailer below:

One Day on Earth – Motion Picture Trailer from One Day On Earth on Vimeo.

Despite some confusion with director Ridley Scott’s Hollywood offering, Life in a Day, One Day on Earth, which is due to be repeated on November 11th this year (11/11/11), aims to raise awareness of the environmental issues that we face together as a race, as well as the interconnectedness of all aspects of life on the planet. In addition, it specifically intends to draw attention to causes in need of your support, including 350.org, Human Rights Watch, Oxfam and the WWF.

You can pre-order the complete 10/10/10 feature and find out how you can get involved in upcoming events on the One Day on Earth website.

Tucked away in a quiet northwest corner of Bosnia-Herzegovina lies one of the last untouched natural ecosystems in Europe. While that sounds like something many tour companies say these days about their own homes, you would be hard pressed to find more unspoiled countryside than that around Banja Luka, where lack of easy access and limited infrastructure once halted the usual tourist swell to this region. Nowadays, though, under the careful guidance of Zepter Passport, the new whl.travel local connection in this part of the world, Banja Luka is now opening up a little.

The rivers surrounding Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina, support some of the liveliest fish populations in the world, which is ideal for fishing enthusiasts. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Fortunately deeply dedicated to preserving the natural beauty of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Zepter Passport has taken careful steps to make sure that human impact is minimal in Banja Luka. In some ways, this has been helped by the company’s relative youth, which means that it doesn’t have many bad habits to work against. It can really help steer Banja Luka on a greener path toward the future.

Travellers to Banja Luka therefore suffer only an embarrassment of riches, deciding between the incredible variety of exciting things to see and do. While Banja Luka city has its share of clubs and bars, old fortresses, presidential palaces, funky cafes, oh-so-hip student eateries and stunning locals (it’s reputed to be home of some of the world’s most beautiful women), visiting the outlying region is perfect for what some might call ‘quiet adventure.’

Banja Luka River Systems

The area surrounding Banja Luka includes lush forests in which there is a smattering of tiny villages and more wildlife than people. Feeding all this verdure, though, is a complex river system that is teeming with fish and other aquatic creatures, and arguably the main draw of this tiny pocket of the world.

+ The Pliva River, known for its spectacular multicoloured waters and large grayling fish, attracts fly-fishers from all over the globe.

+ The Una River was given its name, meaning the ‘only one,’ by Roman explorers. This intricate system of waterfalls, rapids and calm waters shelters unique species of fish and plants.

+ The Unac River brims with rainbow and brown trout. This mountain river is famous for its twilight activity, when the majority of its fish and flowers spring to life.

+ The Ribnik is the wildest river in the Banja Luka region and home to the largest grayling in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Snag one of these cunning fish and claim the ultimate trophy.

+ The Sanica is a tiny tributary of the larger Sana River, but it makes up for its size with the sheer weight of its fish population: 70 percent of the region’s grayling population can be found here, while the rest is brown trout.

+ The Krusnica River’s waters are diamond clear, sourced from a nearby mountain spring that is absolutely pure (don’t be timid about drinking from these waters). Near Banja Luka, the spring reaches a depth of nearly 120 meters, allowing for a wider variance of wildlife and larger fish.

+ The Neretva River has one of the richest instances of soil erosion in the Balkans due to seven nearby mountain peaks and a vast tangle of tributaries. It is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful fly-fishing spots in the world and is said to have the most copious flow of any waterway draining into the Adriatic Sea. A wide variety of fish flourish in the Neretva, from brown and marble trout to grayling, softmouth and lat.

The Old Town of Banja Luka, Bosnia-Herzegovina, is packed with shops, quiet eateries, funky cafes and what some say are the most beautiful women in the world. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Active Adventures

With such a rich complex of rivers, Banja Luka draws back angling enthusiasts year after year, especially fly-fishers. Fly-fishing entails multiple casts of an artificial insect or ‘fly’ using a nearly weightless fishing line. It’s a practice that requires significant deliberation and skill and has consequently often been dubbed ‘the contemplative man’s recreation.’

Fly-fishing tours led by Zepter Passport are strictly catch-and-release only. Barbless hooks are mandatory, making their removal easy after a trophy photo is taken so that the fish can be released back, unharmed, into the water.

For non-anglers and anyone else taking a break from the rivers, the surrounding landscape offers a great mix of activities. Traverse the Kozara mountain system and look out over the entire western half of Bosnia; raft down the Vrbas River, one of Europe’s best and the site of the World Rafting Championship in 2009; or, for a piece of Banja Luka’s cultural history, explore the country’s rich ethnic and religious history by foot and visit the numerous monasteries dotting the countryside.

Banja Luka’s weather draws visitors year round to the city and the region’s main draw – the vast, wild countryside of Bosnia-Herzegovina. In support of this, a wide variety of Banja Luka hotels is available, both in and outside the city, from budget to luxurious.

Though the term ‘getting away from it all’ has been overused, Banja Luka, while hardly remote, is admirable in its ability to live up to its promises. For example, any map of Banja Luka reveals a sense of a city so isolated yet so close to Europe’s hotspots that it is serviced by most European airports. Fortunately, the few local travel companies operating in Banja Luke have made sincere efforts to protect the natural beauty.

www.banja-luka-hotels.com is the latest Bosnia-Herzegovina destination to join the whl.travel network, following Medjugorje and Sarajevo.

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IN THE LOCAL LANGUAGE / NA LOKALNOM JEZIKU:

Smjesten u mirnom sjeverozapadnom dijelu Bosne i Hercegovine lezi jedan od poslednjih netaknutih prirodnih ekosistema u Evropi. Iako to zvuci kao nesto sto mnoge kompanije koje se bave turizmom govore o svojim sredinama, tesko cete naci vise netaknutih predjela od ovih oko Banjaluke, gdje je nedostatak lakog pristupa i ogranicena infrastruktura u proslosti kocila masovni turizam u ovoj oblasti. U sadasnje vrijeme, ipak, pod pazljivim vodstvom Zepter Passport-a, novog whl.travel lokalnog partnera u ovom dijelu svijeta, Banja Luka se polako otvara.

Fly-fishing is a unique type of sport, using an artificial fly to counter a weightless line. All fishing with Zepter Passport is catch-and-release using barbless hooks. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Srecom veoma posvecen ocuvanju prirodnih ljepota Bosne i Hercegovine, Zepter Passport je preduzeo pazljive korake da osigura da ljudski uticaj bude minimalan na prirodu. Na neki nacin, to je potpomognuto i relativnom mladoscu kompanije, sto znaci da nema mnogo losih navika protiv kojih bi se borila. To zaista moze pomoci uputiti podrucje Banjaluke ekoloski prihvatljivijim putem u buducnost.

Putnici u Banjaluku stoga pate jedino od velikog izbora, jer moraju da odluce izmedju velikog i raznolikog spektra stvari koje mogu da vide i urade. Dok grad Banja Luka ima veliki broj nocnih klubova i barova, staru tvrdjavu, predsjednicku palatu, otkacene kafice i mjesta za provod, kao i nevjerovatne ljude ( Banja Luka vazi za jedan od gradova u svijetu sa najljepsim zenama ), posjeta okolnom regionu je savrsena za ono sto bi neki mogli nazvati “tiha avantura”.

Rijecni sistemi u okolini Banjaluke

Podrucje oko Banjaluke ukljucuje bujne sume u kojima ima mnogo malih sela i mnogo vise zivotinja nego ljudi. Ono sto daje zivot ovom podrucju je veliki rijecni sistem koji je prepun ribe i drugih vodenih stvorenja, koji je vjerovatno najveca vrijednost ovog dijela svijeta.

+ Rijeka Pliva, poznata po svojoj kvalitetnoj vodi i velikim lipljenima, privlaci ribolovce iz cijelog svijeta.

+ Rijeka Una je dobila ime od rimljana koje znaci “jedna jedina”. Vodopadi, brzaci i mirna voda se ispreplicu njenim tokom, koji cuva jedinstvene vrste riba i biljaka.

+ Rijeka Unac prepuna je kalifornijske i potocne pastrmke. Ova planinska rijeka je cuvena po aktivnosti ribe u sumrak, kada rijeka prosto procvjeta od brojnosti ribe.

+ Ribnik je jedna od najljepsih rijeka u okolini Banjaluke i dom za neke od najvecih lipljena u Bosni i Hercegovini. Uhvatite neke od ovih opreznih riba i uslikajte znacajan trofej.

+ Rijeka Sanica je mala pritoka vece rijeke Sane, ali nadoknadjuje svoju velicinu bogatstvom ribe, u kojoj sa oko 70% preovladjuje lipljen.

+ Voda rijeke Krusnice je kristalno cista, izviruci iz planinskog izvora ( nemojte se plasiti piti iz ovog izvora ). Njen izvor premasuje dubinu od 120 metara, dozvoljavajuci tako veliku raznolikost vodenog svijeta.

+ Rijeka Neretva dobija jako mnogo vode i minerala sa 7 okolnih planina i velike mreze pritoka. Mnogi je smatraju jednim od najljepsih mjesta za musicarski ribolov na svijetu. Mnoge riblje vrste zive u Neretvi, od potocne do mekousne pastrmke, preko lipljena i drugih.

The countryside of Bosnia-Herzegovina is straight out of a Grimm's fairy tale: packed with dense forests and misty rivers all far enough from civilisation for nature to exist in its wildest forms. Photo courtesy of Zepter Passport Travel Company

Aktivne avanture

Sa tako brojnim rijekama, Banjalucka regija privlaci brojne ribolovce, posebno musicare. Musicarenje je ribolov vjestackom musicom ili insektom, koristenjem nekoliko tehnika kojima se lagana ribolovna snjura koristi da prezentuje imitaciju. To zahtijeva veliku vjestinu, koncentraciju i preciznost, pa se cesto smatra da je to i “umna rekreacija”.

Musicarske ture organizovane od Zepter Passport-a su strogo u rezimu “uhvati i pusti”. Kukice bez povratne kuke su obavezne, jer se ribe lako skidaju s njih po ulovu i slikanju, i riba se odmah vraca nepovrijedjena u vodu.

Za one koji ne pecaju i sve koji zele da naprave pauzu od rijeka, okolni pejsazi nude veliku mogucnost raznih aktivnosti. Obidjite planinu Kozaru i s njenih vrhova pogledajte skoro cijelu sjeverozapadnu Bosnu; probajte rafting Vrbasom, jednom od najboljih Evropskih rijeka za rafting i mjestom Svjetskog prvenstva u raftingu 2009. godine; ili, za dozivljaj istorijskog naslijedja Banjaluke, istrazite bogatu etnicku i religijsku istoriju pjeske i posjetite brojne manastire koji su svuda po okolini.

Zbog blage klime, Banjaluka privlaci posjetioce cijele godine u grad i okolinu, zahvaljujuci i velikoj i skoro netaknutoj prirodi Bosne i Hercegovine. Da bi to podrzali, razliciti hoteli u Banjaluci su u ponudi, u gradu ali i izvan njega, od jeftinih to luksuznih.

Iako uzrecica “pobjeci od svega” je i previse koristena, Banja Luka, iako je dosta jednostavno doci do nje, moze da ispuni sva obecanja. Na primjer, bilo koja karta Banjaluke otkriva grad koji je izolovan a opet tako blizu evropskim glavnim i popularnim destinacijama, dostupan sa nekoliko evropskih aerodroma. Srecom, nekoliko lokalnih turistickih kompanija iz Banjaluke su ucinili znacajne napore da zastite prirodne ljepote.

www.banja-luka-hotels.com je poslednja destinacija u Bosni i Hercegovini koja se prikljucila mrezi whl.travel, poslije Medjugorja i Sarajeva.

Perched on the southeastern fringe of the standard world map is the great nation of New Zealand. A country known for a human population dwarfed by sheep – in number, not stature! – New Zealand is a place where you can travel for miles across picturesque landscape and not encounter any fellow Homo sapiens. In fact, due to its remote location, New Zealand is believed to have been one of the last lands inhabited by humans.

A visit to Rainbow Springs Park in Rotorua, New Zealand, could help save the country’s national bird: the kiwi. Photo courtesy of Rainbow Springs

Despite the rapid changes in today’s world, New Zealand is a magical place that remains unspoiled, where snow-capped mountains meet blue oceans, and where wildlife can still live harmoniously alongside people. It really is no surprise that it was chosen as the setting for the mystical world of Middle Earth during the production of the epic Lord of the Rings films.

whl.travel is therefore proud to announce the North Island as its first travel portal in New Zealand. Through www.NewZealandNorthIsland.co.nz, travellers can now book North Island hotels and North Island tours for a perfect New Zealand holiday. The North Island is the more populous of the two main islands and is home to major cities like Auckland, Rotorua, Waitomo and the nation’s capital of Wellington.

Away from these urban centres, though, is a host of natural wonders to take in, from hot springs, mud pools and pristine beaches to outdoor activities like bungee-jumping, trekking and fishing. Discover New Zealand’s indigenous culture by visiting a Maori village, pay tribute to New Zealand’s native bird at the Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park or behold Rotorua’s thermal geysers at Whakarewarewa Village, where the Maori people use the natural steam to cook their food. Food tours of Wellington and Auckland are also great ways to taste the flavours of New Zealand cuisine.

Visit the birthplace of New Zealand at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in the Bay of Islands, where the document that made New Zealand a British colony was signed in 1840 at the Meeting House, pictured above. Photo courtesy of Destination Northland

The means to discover and book the many things to see and do in the North Island are brought to you by Raumati Wilkaire and her partner Troy Dyer of New Zealand Hotel Link, the whl.travel local connection. After 11 years in the tourism industry, they decided to move back to their homeland to help New Zealand grow as a travel destination. They have partnered with whl.travel to realise their dream.

“We’re very excited about the launch of the North Island website and can’t wait to show visitors how special and wonderful the North Island of New Zealand is, especially since we have the biggest event of New Zealand’s sporting history, the Rugby World Cup, starting on September 3, 2011,” commented Wilkaire. “The team of whl.travel have been incredibly supportive and we feel fortunate to be a part of this big family.”

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IN MAORI / I ROTO I TE REO MAORI

Ma runga te tonga-rawhiti o te mahere whenua o te ao, kei kora te iwi whakahirahira o Aotearoa. He whenua kia kitea te mau o nga tini hipi ki te tangata – mai nga nama, kore te tupuranga! Aotearoa he wahi ahakoa te roa o to haere, e kore kite etahi atu tangata. A pono ana, na te pamaomao o Aotearoa wetahi o nga wahi toenga e noho ana te tangata.

Explore Rotorua's thermal activity at Whakarewarewa Village, where the Maori people of New Zealand use the steam from geysers to cook their food. Photo courtesy of Rob Suisted

Ahakoa te kaha o te ao e hurihuri ana i tenei ra, ka tu tonu te ataahua o Aotearoa, kei reira nga maunga huka, tere atu ki nga kikorangi o te moana nui a kiwa. Kei reira nga kararehe e nohotahi ki te taha o te tangata. E kore te miharo, i whiriwhiria tenei wahi mo Middle Earth me te whakaaturanga o nga whakaahua o Lord of the Rings.

He panuitanga whakahihi tenei o whl.travel ko Te Ika a Maui te tomokanga haere tuatahi o roto Aotearoa. Ma, ka tapui mai nga tangata haere, kotiti hoki mo nga hotera o roto Te Ika a Maui ara ko North Island hotels me North Island tours na enei, a ko tetahi hararei pai rawa atu. E tini nga tangata o roto Te Ika a Maui, rereke ki Te Waipounamu, kei reira te nuinga o nga taone nui na ko Tamakimakaurau, Rotorua, Waitomo me Te Whanganui a Tara te taone matua o Aotearoa.

Engari wehe atu ki nga taone nui, kia kite nga mea o te ao tuturu, mai nga waiariki, me nga puna oru, tahuri atu ki nga tahuna, one hoki, tae atu ki nga ngangahau bungee-jumping, tawhai haerenga atu me te hi ika. Haere atu ki Te Ao Maori kia kite ki etahi kainga Maori, whakahonoretia ki nga manu o Aotearoa hei a Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park ranei ki nga puia waiariki o Whakarewarewa Village, kei konei e mahi ana nga tangata Maori ki te mamaoa kuki te kai. Te haerenga kai o Te Whanganui a Tara ara ko Food tours of Wellington me Tamakimakaurau enei nga mea pai ki te kitea nga kai o Aotearoa ara ko New Zealand cuisine.

Na i te hiahia kia tapui te tini o nga mea o roto Te Ika a Maui kite atu kia. Na Raumati Wikaire raua ko tana hoa tane ko Troy Dyer o New Zealand Hotel Link, ko  ratou ma nga whl.travel o te hau kainga. Na muri mai o te tekau ma tahi o nga tau i waenganui i te mahi tapoi, ka hoki a raua ki te hau kainga ki te awhi ki te u ai ia Aotearoa na he wahi pai mo nga tangata kite kitea. Na ka whakahoa ia whl.travel kia kite nga moemoea.

“E hari ana matou kia timata ai wa tatou pae tukutuku mo Te Ika a Maui, e kore e taea kia kitea nga tangata manuhiri i haere mai ki Aotearoa nga taonga o Te Ika a Maui me tona ake ataahua. Na i roto i tenei waa te huihuinga tino nui o nga mahi hakinakina o Aotearoa, ko te Rugby World Cup, i timata mai i Hepetema 3, 2011,” he korero tena na Wikaire. “He ahua whakaiti ki te tima whl.travel hei awhinatia matou, na matou kei roto i tana whanau rahi.”

My first wildlife sighting in Botswana came before I had even touched down in the Okavango Delta. I took the elephants and giraffes grazing below our Cessna as a sign of things to come.

A herd of elephants roams the Okavango Delta in Botswana. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

I visited the Okavango – the world’s largest inland delta – during the wet season. In January the days are hot, the nights are warm and the sky occasionally turns black with thunderstorms. Although this is traditionally the low season, when the rain supposedly causes the animals to disperse, we saw plenty of wildlife during our stay.

Giraffes are a common sight in Botswana's Okavango Delta. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

With the help of Josiah, a friendly Batswan guide at the Mapula Lodge, we spotted elephants, buffalo, baboons, hippopotamuses, lions, giraffes, and impala.

Writer Leslie Koch and her fiancé Jake enjoy their safari in Botswana. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

Luxury in the Delta

I was visiting the delta with my fiancé Jake and his family, who met up with us half way through a year-long round the world trip. After staying in hostels and rustic guest houses for six months, Jake and I were enjoying the creature comforts of a safari.

A small plane takes visitors from the town of Maun, Botswana, to the Mapula Lodge. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

The stress of a long morning of turbulent flights – from Capetown to Johannesburg to Gabarone to Maun to the Mapula Lodge – was instantly forgotten when our host, Thabo, greeted us at our last airstrip. Thabo and Josiah entertained our questions about the country and worked hard to give us the ultimate safari experience.

There was a strong sense of community at the Mapula Lodge, which was staffed by Batswana, as the locals are called. The staff even prepared a homemade cake and sang a traditional song to celebrate my future mother-in-law’s birthday. We spent our days on the plain and our nights in a private wood cabin with a canopy bed. I drifted asleep to the sounds of the river: hippos playing and fighting.

Treks at the Mapula Lodge in Botswana are conducted in a classic safari jeep (see above), on foot and by canoe. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

The Off-Road Animals

Since Mapula is in a private game park, Josiah was able to take us off-road to track animals. (In national parks, vehicles are restricted to the roads.) One of the trip highlights came when we parked a few feet from a group of juvenile lions. Fortunately, they seemed more concerned with catching up on their beauty sleep than attacking our jeep.

A juvenile male lion yawns within feet of the safari vehicle. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

Our group got even closer to wildlife during a bush walk and a Mokoro canoe trip in the hippo-infested river. Surprisingly, hippos are among the deadliest creatures in Africa, and the narrow wood canoes don’t provide much protection. I sat out the Makoro trip, but Jake described it as “cool and scary.”

Mokoro canoe trips are a popular attraction in Botswana's Okavango Delta. Photo courtesy of Leslie Koch/downtowntraveler.com

Visiting the Okavango Delta was an amazing experience. It surpassed my expectations of an African safari. Besides the abundant wildlife, the best part of the trip was meeting locals and learning about their culture and traditions.

Botswana is a wonderful destination for first-time visitors to Africa, as well as seasoned travellers. For more information on local Botswana tours and safaris, be sure to check in with Cube Safaris, your whl.travel local connection in the Okavango Delta.