Even after relatively mild experiences on roller coasters and other vague elevations, it took a long time for me to feel comfortable with being up really, really high. I finally had a breakthrough when I decided to attempt my first bungee jump at the age of 18, in late 1996, in Kuranda, Queensland, Australia. The adrenaline hit, and, of course, I loved it immediately.

A suspension bridge connects the colourful Orlando Towers of Soweto, South Africa. The bridge was built for high-intensity vertical sports such as bungee jumping. Photo courtesy of Jen Campbell

The instructor had advised that I focus on a spot on the horizon, avoid looking down and lean forward until my balance reached the point of no return, at which time I was to bend my knees, push off and yell, “Bungee!” Rather embarrassingly, not only did I follow the latter instruction, but have continued to do so during most of my six bungee jumps since: three on the Gold Coast in Australia during 1997, two in Bali in 2008 and the Macau Tower jump in 2008 – a massive 233-metre plunge.

In 2009, I moved from London to Johannesburg to work on the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Given this was my first experience visiting Africa, let alone living there, I compiled a list of experiences I wanted to tick off before my contract ended in August 2010.

This list included a proper safari – something I never got around to doing – and, after spying the Orlando Cooling Towers during a work visit to the Soweto Derby in late 2009, another bungee jump.

A Vertical Vision

Orlando Towers was opened to adrenaline excitement in 2009 by Skyriders, a South African company established in 1988 and specialising in rope access for work, inspection and maintenance in very high or hard-to-reach areas. While Skyriders began in window-cleaning and progressed to industrial access in the 1990s, Orlando Towers was their first foray into the world of extreme sports.

The anxiety builds as adrenaline thrill-seekers are swept into a cage elevator that propels them to the top of the Orlando Towers Vertical Adventure Centre in Soweto, South Africa. Photo courtesy of Jen Campbell

Long before that, the hulking structures were the cooling towers for the Soweto Power Station from 1942 to 1998, when the coal-burning facility closed. Then, Bob Woods, a rope-access specialist and director at Skyriders, was fortunate enough to experience the stunning view from the top of the towers while conducting maintenance work. Believing that more people should be able to take part in this amazing experience, a brainwave that struck Woods in 2001 compelled him to developed the decommissioned Orlando Towers into a ‘vertical adventure centre’.

The years that followed were filled with discussions and negotiations with the people of Soweto, as well as local councils, engineers, builders and the Johannesburg Property Company. In 2005, preliminary plans for the Orlando Ekhava Precinct were presented, with the comprehensive Orlando Towers Vertical Adventure Centre project approved in 2007.

At the end of 2007, a lease was signed; development began soon after. By July 2008, a lift tower was installed and the site officially opened. In order to develop the vertical adventure component, a bridging platform between the two towers was raised 100 metres from the ground (three metres from the top of the towers) and secured in place for the ‘World’s First Bungee Jump Between Two Cooling Towers’. Fittingly, the first leap was made by Bob Woods.

Hanging around at the Orlando Towers of Soweto, South Africa, bungee jumpers and giant swingers wait to be lifted to a launch platform 100 metres above the ground. Photo courtesy of Jen Campbell

Today, Orlando Towers offers a number of adrenaline-pumping experiences, including the 100-metre bungee, a swing from the centre of the suspension bridge resulting in a 40-metre free fall, and a swing into one of the cooling towers. Beyond these thrills there are also rap jumping, base jumping, abseiling and a zip line. The centre even offers rock climbing and paint balling, and the suspension bridge itself is an excellent viewing platform from which to take in the seemingly endless panorama of Soweto.

A Flying Leap

In August 2010, only weeks before I was due to head back to London, I realised I’d ticked very few things off my to-do list. No safari. No bungee jump. Then, two people I had met at the Soweto Derby back in 2009 suggested we tackle Orlando Towers as a celebratory wrap-up after the World Cup.

When I arrived, I was surprised at how simple and laid-back the setup was. Despite being very professionally qualified and approved, the staff were all very relaxed about the experience. Instead of my usual bungee experience, I therefore elected to try something new to me – the giant swing – and was outfitted with a harness, something specific to the swing experience.

At first we waited at the foot of the tower, watching the group before us throw themselves into gravity’s embrace from 100 metres above. This increased the anticipation, and perhaps the apprehension too, but given past experiences and my love of bungee I was desperate to give it my go.

In Soweto, South Africa, the swing at Orlando Towers is an adrenaline-packed alternative to bungee, which is also available. Choose your thrill. Photo courtesy of Jen Campbell

When it was our turn we were given a quick briefing and bundled into the open-air rickety-feeling lift riveted to the exterior of one of the towers. The staff played on this fact by tweaking the speed of the elevator halfway up the tower (50 metres above the ground) to make the entire lift shudder. It also didn’t help that the lift hugged the shape of the tower, meaning you began by leaning slightly against it, and finished by dangling off it.

At the top, the walkways to the suspension bridge allowed us to look into the massive tower. We worked our way around to the launch platform and waited for the first of our group to bungee. It took a lot of coaxing, and a few moments of considering turning back, but she eventually leapt. The second group member completed her bungee jump too, and then I was strapped on to the swing rope.

The swing does not involve walking out onto the bridge, as with the bungee, but instead begins on a platform attached to one of the towers from where you try to fly from one tower to the other. Once you’re attached to the rope, the weight of the rope itself practically drags you to the edge. Unlike a bungee, where you’re told to lean into it and fall headfirst, the swing involves taking a long stride off the 100-metre-high platform and then free-falling for 40 metres before the rope pulls taught and drags you into a massive swing toward the other tower.

Free-falling 40 metres from a 100-metre platform between the Orlando Towers in Soweto, South Africa, is a powerful swing experience. Photo courtesy of Jen Campbell

It was far more stomach-churning than a bungee jump, feeling much more like the floor had been removed from under my feet and I was simply falling to the ground below. I’d certainly recommend it to anyone who has previously bungeed and is interested in putting a new spin on it.

Although I missed out on a few things while I lived in South Africa, I certainly do intend to go back and take part in a safari. I also hope to experience the world’s highest bridge bungee: 216 metres from Bloukrans Bridge!

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

For a metropolis of over 6 million people, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, has preserved its natural beauty and charm. No wonder it’s known as ‘the marvellous city.’

Rowing and Kayaking are popular water sports in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, where a cityscape amongst dramatic landforms provides the ultimate scenic backdrop. Photo courtesy of Pedro Kirilos/Riotur

People from Rio are called Cariocas. Their way of life is centred around the mountains that seem to rise from the ocean; Tijuca National Park, which is the biggest urban forest in the world; the fanciful beaches along the south and west coasts; the fascinating and infamous favelas (residential areas) in the hills overlooking the city; and iconic features such as Corcovado Mountain, the Statue of Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain with its cable car ride.

The city is also recognised for its vibrant and international events: Carnival and the New Years Eve party in Copacabana attract over 2 million people every year. On the top of that, Rio is now in the spotlight as host to both the 2016 Olympic Games and the 2014 FIFA World Cup.

Extreme Sports and Adrenaline

Extreme Sports and adventure tours are must-dos in Rio. One of the most exciting activities is a Sugarloaf hiking tour, a trek to the summit of the famous mountain – better than lining up for the cable car. For less adventurous visitors, a Rio bike tour is a great way to explore the Arpoador and Ipanema beaches, the lagoon area and the Botanical Garden. The latter tour ends with an adrenaline rush – a zip-line ride is included in the visit to the Park of Catacumba.

The Brazilian flag waves proudly, giving purpose to the rock climbers behind it in Urca, one of Rio de Janeiro's climbing spots

Shopping

The shopping in Rio is outstanding. There are unique and carefully made handicrafts in the Santa Teresa neighbourhood, where dozens of local artists live. La Vereda is one of the main shops there.

In Ipanema, fancier shops cater to those looking for high-end products, including famous brands and sophisticated designer jewellery. On Sunday, the area plays host to a street market at the General Osorio Square, where good leather clothing, souvenirs, nice local paintings and a lot more can be found.

Restaurants

Finding a good spot to eat out in Rio de Janeiro is easy. Restaurants in Rio de Janeiro cover all tastes – Spanish, French, Lebanese, Arabian, Greek, Mediterranean, Mexican, Japanese and Brazilian – and line the streets of the Ipanema, Leblon, Lagoa and Jardim Botânico areas.

A typical meal in Rio is the traditional feijoada, a stew of thinly sliced pork meats accompanied by side dishes of rice, black beans, collard greens, orange slices and hot peppers. Most restaurants serve it as the daily special on Saturdays and Sundays.

The caipirinha is a drink that goes well with feijoada and can be spotted everywhere in the city. It is made of cachaça (Brazil’s most common alcoholic beverage, distilled from sugar cane), sugar and lime.

Some restaurants in Rio charge by the kilo of food. You choose what you want from the buffet and salad bars, and then you weigh your plate. This style of restaurant is very popular among locals.

A surfer and other beach-goers capture the final moments of daylight on Ipamena beach, Rio de Janiero

Local Treats

During the summer, one of the most interesting habits of the cariocas is to watch the sunset from Arpoador Rock at Arpoador beach (the eastern extremity of Ipanema beach). Known for its waves and surfing point, Arpoador attracts both locals and tourists all year round. People climb to the top of the rock, sit down as if it were a movie theatre and wait until the sun sets in the ocean. When it does it, everybody whistles and applauds this daily performance of Mother Nature.

Night Out

The nightlife in Rio usually starts at a bar. There are plenty of options in the Ipanema, Leblon, Copacabana and Lapa districts. People gather to savour some refreshing chopp, which is the most popular alcoholic beverage in Rio. It’s a draft beer served ice cold, which is perfect on a hot night in Rio. Ask for chopp claro if you want a light beer or chopp escuro if you want it dark.

After the warmup at a bar, the main attractions nowadays are in the Lapa district, where night clubs heat up with a variety of rhythms. The main clubs (Rio Scenarium, Democráticos and Lapa 40 Graus) feature live samba, forró or eletronica music.

The three winners have been announced and The Travel Word is honoured to present the top three essays. After having published stories by the third- and second-place finishers, the following is from the first-place winner.

The day after Spain held aloft the 2010 World Cup trophy, we found ourselves listening to South African talkback radio during a long drive down towards the country’s picturesque Eastern Cape. The topic for the show was what hosting the World Cup had meant to each listener.

As the kilometres whizzed by, caller after caller expressed their pride, as South Africans, at having proven the doubters wrong by staging one of the most spectacular sporting events ever. The tournament had been an unabashed success: the third-highest attendance of any World Cup, marked by a carnival atmosphere throughout (despite the early elimination of the host country’s team), and barely a security incident to speak of. Hundreds of thousands of international visitors had left the country wowed.

A view of the interior of a World Cup stadium. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Jason Wojciechowski

A Transformed Nation

It had been no small achievement for South Africa to pull off. For so many people to watch the matches, the nation had constructed seven glistening new state-of-the-art stadiums, each of distinctly African architecture. Several cities, Cape Town and Johannesburg among them, had also launched vastly improved mass rapid transit systems to ferry spectators out to each venue. To allow smooth passage between the nine host cities, road networks and airports had been greatly upgraded.

Violent crime, so central to the country’s international reputation, had been reduced by 60 percent during the tournament to make South Africa one of the safest host nations in living memory. With crime down, host cities could show off their redeveloped waterfront districts and entertainment areas and all and sundry could confidently walk along the streets well into the night. For the few crimes that did occur, increased police deployments and 56 dedicated World Cup courts provided swift and decisive justice.

Why, asked one caller, did these achievements have to end now that the tournament was over? The question is a particularly pertinent one: Why could South Africans not continue to do for themselves what they had done so well for the massive influx of international visitors?

An Epic Road Trip

My partner Dave and I were two of the most enthusiastic among this influx of ‘visitors’ (South Africa’s term for international tourists). During the 31 days of the tournament, we drove around 8,000 kilometres to watch eleven of the 64 matches played, visiting eight of the ten stadiums in the process and passing through every single South African province. Our epic odyssey saw us cross paths with other visitors from every continent on earth, as well as South Africans from all walks of life. And it had all taken place amidst a stunning diversity of landscapes and wildlife, ensuring that the long journey was never for a moment dull.

Fans at the World Cup in South Africa. Photo courtesy of Flickr/babasteve

The South African Welcome

Quite apart from the spectacular stadiums, the clockwork organisation and the amazing games, it was the genuine warmth and welcome from all South Africans, regardless of race, ethnic group and economic background, that made attending the tournament such a remarkable experience.

Everywhere we went, once people discovered we were ‘visitors,’ they would instantly initiate conversations with us. More than once, while waiting for our car to be refilled, we would be spontaneously approached by another young black petrol station attendant who just wanted to chat about football.

We also met numerous older wealthier white South Africans, many of whom were more interested in the upcoming rugby season and the match against the New Zealand All Blacks.

While doing a coastal hike in between matches, a lovely couple asked about how we were enjoying our time in South Africa, where we were going, our background and interests. They even recommended a lovely place for lunch.

No one seemed to take notice of us being an inter-racial couple (I am a Chinese who grew up in New Zealand and Dave is an Australian of Scottish descent).

Racial and Social Divisions Still Exist

And yet, as wonderful a host as each South African was, even the most casual visitor could not miss the social and economic divisions that are everywhere apparent. The democratic elections that swept Nelson Mandela and the African National Congress to power may have taken place 16 years prior, but the change of political system could not erase Apartheid’s legacy overnight.

Many of the towns we visited remained visibly divided into different suburbs that were effectively two different worlds. Poorer, more dilapidated streets and suburbs made up a world inhabited by black South Africans, while just across the way others lived in a better kept, visibly more affluent world. Beyond this geographic separation, different groups seemed to keep to themselves even where day-to-day life brought them into close proximity. People of different races may now sit in the same cafes and restaurants, but we rarely saw them sitting around the same table.

The divisions on view were not simply between black and white, or between the various other “colours” represented within the population of the Rainbow Nation. With the stark inequalities between the nation’s rich and poor, the haves and have-nots of each Apartheid-era grouping also had their separate worlds. In Johannesburg, Durban and Mthatha, we encountered a black middle class whose lifestyles are far removed from those living in rural townships. We also saw a vignette of social tensions between different white people in an exchange at a fan park between fellow South Africans supporters of the Dutch team. When the one fan failed to understand a sentence in Afrikaans from the other and answered “I speak English,” the other angrily retorted “Then you’re not a real Dutch fan.”

The contrast between the attitudes of South Africans to ‘visitors’ and their guardedness with each other poses a second pertinent question: If South Africans could extend such universal goodwill to visitors of all races and ethnic groups from around the world, why could this sense of trust and togetherness not always be extended to each other?

World Cup Legacy

In trumpeting the success of the World Cup, the South African government has focused on the concrete economic benefits: masses of new jobs in the construction and hospitality industries generated in preparation for the influx of visitors, a noticeable bump in gross domestic product (GDP) from the money spent in-country by visitors, and shiny newly built infrastructure. The infrastructure apart, however, these tangible benefits are inescapably short-term. Employment, for instance, is expected to decrease in the coming year now that there are no more stadiums to build, while the GDP bump is likely to be just that: a one-off anomaly.

In Cape Town, visitors can explore traditionally multicultural areas that date back to the 19th Century. Photo courtesy of Flickr/neiljs

If these were to be the only benefits of hosting the World Cup and receiving so many visitors, then South Africans might rightly question the cost. But what we have seen during our approximately 8,000-kilometre journey across the country suggests a more significant legacy from the tournament, albeit one that is less tangible: South Africans have shown to the rest of the world that their nation is capable of making its streets safe, of providing quality and secure public transport and, more importantly, of overcoming racial and social barriers in its day-to-day personal interactions. Besides creating a sense of national pride, this achievement can also become a catalyst for the population to realize new possibilities both of what the country, collectively, can deliver and more importantly, the public services and respect that every person deserves.

Some of the improvements made during the World Cup have already been continued. The World Cup courts, for instance, have continued operation in order to assist the regular courts with a logjam of cases. At a personal level, there is also plenty of cause for optimism. During the World Cup, the “fan fests” established in parks, beaches and other public spaces in the host cities were sites where social and economic divisions were left at the gate. Tens of thousands crammed into each of these fests on South Africa match days to will their team to victory; the fests were again packed in the later stages of the tournament as South Africans enthusiastically responded to appeals to adopt a new team. A friendly atmosphere prevailed when everyone was thrown together, with football to break the ice. More flamboyantly dressed fans happily posed for photos with people of all backgrounds, while people mingled, danced together and compared notes on how the match would pan out. It was also in the fan parks that we saw our first inter-racial couple, and saw teenage friends of different races sitting together. This new togetherness did not escape notice by South African commentators, as papers during the tournament were filled with column after column wondering how long and whether it could persist.

If just some of these opportunities for change are seized, then the lasting legacy of the World Cup will be that of having proven to visitors what South Africans could achieve. South Africans have themselves re-imagined what their nation could and should be.

Diane Zhang is from Hamilton, New Zealand. In 2010, after living in Indonesia for six years, she quit her job to travel for several months in Southern Africa, including attending the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Diane has also travelled extensively in North America, Asia and Australasia.

The three winners have been announced and The Travel Word is honoured to present the top three essays. After having published the third-place finisher, the following is from the second.

When I was in London on July 6, 2005, the city was celebrating. After a long bidding campaign to host the 2012 summer Olympics, the International Olympic Committee had declared it the winner. People were cheering in the streets and the media was drunk on the good news. On the subway, everyone was buzzing and smiling until an old bearded man got on board and started nay-saying.  ”London Olympics? Not on my dime!” said his cardboard sign.  ”This is just one more way that the working man’s taxes are siphoned into deep corporate pockets!” he ranted. “The promises are false!”

The subway may not be the best forum to open a dialogue, but the bearded nay-sayer had made an impression on me. If everybody else in the city was joyful with the news, what was this guy talking about? Who was making these promises? How are they false? I decided to entertain the bearded nay-sayer’s position and look into the expectations surrounding this year’s most recent mega-event, the FIFA World Cup 2010 in South Africa. Do mega-events really keep their promises?

Promise #1: “Huge Economic Benefits!”

Economists talk in numbers about the impact of past mega-events in past host regions and make sunny forecasts about the total effect on job creation, increased GDP, direct foreign investment etc. The actual data for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa is still rolling in, but estimates had promised between US$7.6 billion and US$21.3 billion of direct economic benefits from the event. Between 159,000 and 415,000 jobs were estimated to have been created or sustained. An estimated US$40 billion was spent on infrastructure. No wonder hosting mega-events is often projected to be a great economic windfall. In this case, speculators had even called the World Cup bid a ‘turning point’ for South Africa.

Who Actually Benefits?

As the skeptic, my response is that economists and their estimates can’t even agree and their numbers are hollow. They don’t tell you, for example, what investment in other projects could have done. South Africa is a country with extreme economic disparity between the rich and the poor, among other urgent social problems. Yet a hefty amount of World Cup investment is going towards stadium infrastructure.

World Cup Game 2010. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Jason Wojciechowski

Tony Roshan Samara, who has published research on Cape Town politics, commented on the new stadium with a price tag of US$600 million. “In a city where you are struggling to provide housing, education, drug counseling services, in a city that is dealing with a horrible epidemic of methamphetamines, to spend that much money on building a stadium, it is a question of the allocation of resources – whether it is a smart allocation of resources… when you have a city struggling with all these social and development issues.”

Nor do the economic estimates indicate who benefits. As the bearded nay-sayer and other skeptics are apt to point out, it is often mega-private interests that gain the most from the mega-investments of mega-events. Media conglomerates and corporate sponsors are the likely bedfellows of FIFA, and they all come out on top.

Rian Malan, South African reporter for the Telegraph, explains. “South Africa winds up with 10 new stadiums, some smart new infrastructure and £450 million in tourist cash. FIFA walks off with about £2 billion in tax-free profits [from sponsorship and broadcast and licensing deals] – 50 per cent more than it made at the last World Cup in Germany.”

Promise #2: “Good for Tourism!”

Maybe the entire economic picture is messy, but the mega-event advocates say the benefits for the tourism industry are clear. Hosting a mega-event is a marketing boon for a destination, its big chance to project an attractive image when the entire world is watching. “I think it is an opportunity to dispel some of the myths about South Africa and about Africa in general,” said James Stewart, American economist and Africa expert. In fact, destination marketing research has dedicated serious attention to the relationship between mega-events and destination image. A study on Seoul, South Korea, found that foreigners from three different countries had a more positive image of the country after the 2002 World Cup than before, suggesting that a mega-event can change the image of a country in a short time period. In South Africa, destination marketers want to harness the World Cup as a way to ‘brand’ South Africa in a strong and positive way.

Can the Good Tourism Image Last?

But, says the skeptic, all that glitters is not gold. The shiny image is a makeover that can only conceal so much from tourism’s eye for so long. Behind the scenes of the event, egregious displacement temporarily made cities in South Africa more presentable. In Cape Town, homeless people were moved from the downtown area around the stadium into razor-wire-encircled encampments outside the city.

Workers’ rights journalist Michelle Chen spoke to Isaac Newton, a homeless South African who had been arrested six times for loitering. “Police harassment is increasing,” he said. “They want to make a good impression for the foreigners coming. We are like insects to them – like flies.” Such harsh realities will eventually reflect back into the image of South Africa as a destination as the World Cup makeup wears off.

Long Street, Cape Town, teeming with people. Photo courtesy of Flickr/flowcomm

Further, a momentary spotlight does not necessarily translate into continuous tourism growth. Granted, this year’s World Cup in the Rainbow Nation promised to attract up to half a million visitors from all over the world, but this represents a wave and not necessarily a rising tide. The wave was smaller than expected. Again the numbers disagree here depending on the source, but border counts show that absolute tourist arrivals were around 200,000 – less than half the 450,000 that had been predicted.

Promise #3: “Green and Carbon Neutral!”

Another weak argument in favor of hosting a mega-event is that the environmental impacts can somehow be neutralized somehow. A ‘Feasibility study for a carbon neutral 2010 FIFA World Cup in South Africa‘ predicted that the event would generate 2.75 million tons of carbon dioxide, which could be offset at the cost of between US$5.4 million and US$9 million, and that by publicizing a carbon-offset program, awareness could be raised about climate change. Also, other ‘green’ measures would be taken, such as waterless urinals in the new stadium.

Biggest Footprint Yet

I’m about ready to make a sign and start ranting on the subway myself about this one. The carbon emissions from the 2010 World Cup in South Africa were eight times higher than they were in Germany in 2006, without even including the emissions from international flights to the location.

Why such a difference? The main reasons cited are worse energy efficiency in South Africa and the geography of the location. South African cities are very far apart and the 64 matches were spread out between nine different cities. Also, South Africa is geographically remote from attendee places of origin. Long-haul flights into the country represented 67.4% of the emissions total. Perhaps carbon footprint is one thing FIFA should consider a little more carefully when awarding the bid.

Carbon emissions are a global problem, so researchers and reporters paid attention. But the skeptic can only wonder about the local environmental impacts of the mega-event on the host region of South Africa. What happens environmentally when an influx of sports spectators descend upon a place for a few weeks? They consume tons of water and power, then they generate tons of waste and sewage. Preparedness involves a little more than the new stadium’s waterless urinals.

Promise #4: “Fun and Patriotic!”

So, it turns out that the impacts of a mega-event on the overall economy, on tourism in particular and on the environment are debatable. But, reply the yay-sayers, at least one thing is certain. Hosting something like the World Cup can be a source of great national pride and unification for the host region’s residents.
People had fun and felt proud.

This skeptic agrees. Ever since humans have been playing sports, we have wanted to stage competitions at the broadest level and largest scale possible. To be chosen as the host of such a competition is indeed an honor and a reason to get excited.

As I saw that day in London, the winning of the 2012 Olympic bid created a collective buzz that the bearded nay-sayer and his sign couldn’t kill. In the case of this year’s World Cup, South African reporter Rian Malan says it best: “I found myself caught up in the primordial business of waving flags, stirring national anthems, and watching our beautiful stadiums glowing like jewels in the African darkness on my television … such things are almost invaluable.”

Cynthia Ord is from Denver, Colorado. She traces her travel addiction back to a semester abroad in Puebla, Mexico. Having recently completed a masters degree in Tourism and Environmental Economics in Mallorca, Spain, she is now doing a summer internship at Outdoor Albania in the Balkan region. For fun, she likes hiking, thrift store browsing, poi spinning and building adult-sized hula hoops.

The three winners have been announced and The Travel Word is honoured to present the top three essays. The following is the third-place finisher.

There’s something repugnant about carbon calculations. In an age of green enlightenment, it seems whatever recreational pursuit we might want to indulge in, we’re instantly informed of the carbon footprint that such a heinous activity leaves.

The angel on our shoulder has been replaced by a sandal-wearing environmental protestor, who whispers in our ear every time we decide it’s a chilly day and we’d rather drive to the local shop. The imp at our other ear somehow seems more sympathetic to the needs of modern life.

The Carbon Footprint

It was inevitable then that the then South African Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism (along with the Norwegian Embassy) should release a report on the carbon footprint of the 2010 World Cup. The party-pooping assessment estimated a staggering 2.8 million tonnes of CO2 emissions would be produced – a notable shortfall from the carbon neutrality aimed for by the event authorities. If the numbers mean nothing to you, the figure is allegedly roughly equivalent to the production of 20 cheeseburgers for every man, woman and child in the UK. I work this out as 1200 million burgers. See? Staggering.

The report’s conclusion, of course, should be taken with a generous serving of salt. However it’s also inevitable that, in practice, the report will have a minimal impact on the behaviour of the majority of World Cup supporters, who, while flying to Durban’s newly built King Shaka International Airport, will quite understandably wonder how their own personal holiday activity could possibly have an effect on the environment. Meanwhile, about 1200 million burger wrappers will float ominously around Cape Town’s Green Point stadium.

The Regional Effects

Prophecies of global-warming doom aside, it would be churlish not to consider the environmental impact that such an event could have on South Africa on a regional scale. When we picture the Rainbow Nation, all 1.27 million square kilometres of it, we envisage the natural: acres of burning savannah and Bushveld, a haven for charismatic predator and graceful prey, diverse cultures, modern-wonder-of-the-world Table Mountain, and penguins dipping and diving near the former prison cells of Robben Island. South Africa enjoys the third-highest level of biodiversity in the world, and generously, it has brought its wild side to tourists, courtesy of game drives, and adventure sports ranging from bird-watching to diving with sharks. It’s likely that with such abounding opportunities, many travellers this summer will at some point during their stay swap their vuvuzelas for their videophones.

However the country is also home to 2,000 plant species on the endangered list, not to mention about 20% of its mammals being under threat, including the black rhinoceros and African elephant – some impressive creatures that could do without the waste, pollution and, especially pertinent to the area, the unsustainable use of water associated with large influxes of people.

Packed World Cup stadium. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Jason Wojciechowski

For the well-informed visitor, ecotourism provides a pleasing balance of memorable experience and a clean conscience. This ‘responsible’ tourism ostensibly exists for visitors to enjoy pristine areas of natural beauty with a low environmental impact, and designs on providing education, funds for conservation and local empowerment. South Africa itself boasts a well-maintained network of protected areas and shrewd conservation practices. Yet scratch the surface of ecotourism, and the hidden costs are revealed: the displacement of local communities for the creation of parks, disputes over land use, the creation of amenities for the unwitting do-gooder and the channelling of money away from other long-term conservation strategies – and let’s not even go into the carbon produced from the often-lengthy journeys required to see such exotic locations. The little protestor on the shoulder is a-whispering again.

South African Wildlife Acclimation

It’s not just the economy that can suffer. The tooth-and-clawed natives are also affected by such an invasion of tourists. Just as footballers learn to acclimate to the audiences of thousands around them and grow begrudgingly accustomed to the snapping of the paparazzi, South Africa’s wildlife is all too much at risk of acclimating to their human spectators, with arguable potential for human/animal conflict and unpredictable change in animal behaviour brought about by disruption of feeding and nesting. In Kenya, it’s been noted that cheetahs have been driven off their reserves by tourists, increasing the risk of inbreeding and endangering the species even more than they are already. (They are listed as ‘vulnerable’ with a decreasing population on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.)

Does Ecotourism Ameliorate or Exacerbate Concerns?

Its intentions are honourable and it can increase environmental awareness; if wisely managed, it can still be one of the most conscientious ways of seeing animals in their natural habitats. But South Africa’s wildlife-encountering opportunities reveal a heart of far greater darkness. A tabloid newspaper recently revealed that a number of game lodges are aiming to tempt World Cup fans with packages allowing them to shoot animals in an activity known as ‘canned hunting,’ in which the animals – notably the big cats – are bred, released and pursued. At over £15,000 a pop, the sport is strictly for the wealthy (and opportunistic) and it’s a fair bet that the average footy fan wouldn’t miss a game to indulge.

With such a range of environmental threats to South Africa being increased this summer, it’s gratifying to see control measures being put in place. A partnership between the Global Environment Facility, the United Nations Environment Programme and the South African Department of Environmental Affairs has brought about an initiative comprising an array of projects seeking to minimise the event’s environmental impact. Across six of the nine host cities, the programme aims to reduce energy consumption through solar panels on public street lights, traffic lights and billboards, and is carrying out a ‘Green Passport’ programme, distributing a booklet containing information on responsible tourism to 100,000 spectators. At 32 pages each, it’s hard not to wince at the irony of 100,000 Green Passports being discarded by the roadside. The plans to allow visitors to be able to assess their own carbon footprints also have doubtful potential (‘Hey kids! Who’s game for some number-crunching fun?’), but then nobody ever claimed that environmental education was a speedy process.

Long Street in Cape Town, South Africa. Photo courtesy of Flickr/Anne Froehlich

Nor is it a process that can be easily achieved on a large scale. The environment is closely linked with the economy, and often dependent on it, and it’s indubitable that the World Cup is sure to boost opportunities for guesthouse owners, restaurants, transport companies, local attractions and cultural activity. A healthy respect for a country’s environment can begin with a healthy respect for the country itself. If well managed, South Africa’s tourism can perform wonders for conservation and green living. Audits and assessments will encourage good practise, conscientious consumers can encourage the running of sustainable businesses and (in our wildest dreams) generated wealth could be invested back into promoting conservation measures and new environmental initiatives.

Tourism itself needn’t be a case of simply standing back to see a country with a pair of binoculars. South Africa has countless opportunities to actually participate in hands-on rural development initiatives, conservation expeditions and, perhaps most importantly, education. These are invaluable ways of redressing the environmental and sociological balance that can be knocked during holiday seasons.

The Environmental Consequences Remain Unwritten

South Africa stands canned and cornered like one of its magnificent lions, staring curiously down the barrel of a hunter’s rifle. Whether it’s shot or released remains to be seen, and the decision lies with not just the masses descending for the football but on its own people, government and the hordes of tourists that wish to see this stunning country in the future. With the enormous investment channelled into venues and amenities for the year’s big event, South Africa will have to work hard to continue to make use of its new and improved infrastructure, public transit systems and energy resources in the long term – even years after football fans have skipped or trudged their ways home.

And while British visitors perform an autopsy on Rooney’s performance and Capello’s curious methods, perhaps we should also use the consequences of mass tourism observed at the event as an example to study for the approaching London Olympics 2014. South Africa should at least provide us with some food for thought – and hopefully fewer than 1200 million cheeseburgers worth.

Rob Stringer is a writer and editor for Earthwatch, an international environmental and conservation charity. He enjoys adventures in the great outdoors.

Now imagine the effect of a major sporting event, like the World Cup, which is presently drawing thousands to South Africa. This is the question at the heart of a new annual travel writer competition launched by Make Travel Fair: The Backdoor (Write Your Way in).

The precise question asked by The Backdoor is:

“A major sporting event creates a large influx of tourism to the host destination. What are the implications and benefits of that influx of travellers to a destination like South Africa?”

Can you convey your thoughts in an original article of up to 1,500 words before 11pm GMT on 25 July 2010? Submit your entry here.

A Pen with Power

Make Travel Fair is looking for writers who understand the strength of words as part of the responsible tourism development process. They’re looking for aspiring travel writers with a yearning to explore and something sincere to say about tourism development?

The value of sharing your thoughts is, of course, part of the competition prize. “Our Backdoor travel writing competition gives all budding writers, particularly those with an interest in tourism development, the chance to ‘write your way in’ to a WHL Consulting internship with unique travel writing opportunities.

Part of the WHL Group, WHL Consulting is a professional services company with a singular focus on providing innovative, high-technology solutions to small businesses. WHL Consulting aims to improve the competitiveness and long-term sustainability of micro, small and medium-sized products.

The Prizes

As a powerful sweetener, in addition to the offers of an internship with WHL Consulting, the competition winner will receive a free seven-night stay in South Africa (valid for one year) at either the Seaforth Country Lodge in the beautiful Drakensberg region or the Chestnut Country Lodge in the Mpumalanga region just 30 minutes from Kruger National Park. Winners will also have their articles published on various websites, including Make Travel Fair and the WHL Group blog.

For more, please see the competition rules and submission guidelines, as well as the important terms and conditions.

Take a Walk on the Wild Side

No place on earth conjures up visions of teeming, exotic wildlife quite like the African continent, so it’s only fitting that the local fauna should sometimes be allowed to join in the fun too. The Safaricom Marathon takes place in June at the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in Kenya and is famous for being the only race in the world where you get to run up against the local inhabitants. Despite cosy quarters with the Big Five, there have so far been no reports of animal attacks and experienced rangers patrol the circuit with the help of a spotter plane to make sure participants don’t end up as lunch.

The harsh terrain, high altitude and relentless equatorial sun make Kenya's 26-mile Safaricom Marathon particularly popular with professionals. One thousand runners from 20 countries have already signed themselves up for the 2010 event.

The event, which Runner’s World magazine described as “One of the top ten races to run in your life,” was set up to provide much-needed funding for wildlife conservation and community development projects across Kenya. It has so far raised over US$2 million, which has gone a long way to achieving the organisers’ goals of “using wildlife conservation as a catalyst to alleviate poverty, reduce conflict, and improve education and livelihoods in rural areas rich in biodiversity.”

Rally-ho!

Sticking with Kenya, the Rhino Charge – held deep in the bush at a different location each year – raises money for wildlife conservation in Aberdare National Park, home of the endangered black rhino. This annual off-road 4×4 rally is wildly popular with car lovers from all over the world, eager to test their mettle on the gruelling trail.

Going strong in Kenya since 1989, Rhino Charge is an exciting competition that requires a high level of skill in off-road driving and navigation

Rocks, rivers, ravines, hills, wildlife and countless other obstacles all conspire to make the rally as tricky as possible and few will stay the course. That does not seem to deter the many competitors, though, and last year a record of 48 teams raised a total of over 64 million Kenyan shillings (US$807,300). Rhino Ark, the event’s charity organisers, plan to use the money on construction of an electric perimeter fence for the park.

Monkey Business

Uganda has its own rally in the form of the 4×4 Chimp Challenge, near Kampala. Competitors try their driving luck at a skills trial, relay race, mud run, balance beam and a blindfolded trial. There are also plenty of activities for those too small to see over the steering wheel!

The balance beam is just one of many tests of skill facing competitors in Uganda's 4x4 Chimp Challenge

“Participants’ approaches range from the quietly confident to the wildly exuberant with varying degrees of success, which all makes for a great day out,” says Patrick Shah, who, as a keen off-roader and the owner of The Far Horizon travel company, the whl.travel local connection for Uganda, has first-hand experience of the event.

As the name suggests, the event aims to raise money for Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, on Lake Victoria, which cares for chimps rescued and confiscated in Uganda.

Kidding Around

Described as ‘East Africa’s premier social occasion,’ the Royal Ascot Goat Races is Uganda’s answer to the pomp and silly-hat-wearing splendour of Britain’s own Royal Ascot, but without the horses, Their Royal Highnesses or a bevy of C-list British celebrities.

A great excuse to get dolled up in all your finery, Kampala's Royal Ascot Goat Races are a big hit on Uganda's social scene

Started as a fundraiser for Entebbe Sailing Club in 1993, the race was so popular that it has since developed into a huge international event that attracts thousands and raises millions of Ugandan shillings for local charities. Its popularity is such that similar events are now held in Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania) and Nairobi (Kenya).

Mollusc Mania

In addition to its newfound fame as a footie mecca, South Africa also has a well-deserved reputation as one of the sportiest nations on the continent. The annual 10-day Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival in July is one of the Garden Route‘s most popular events with around 65,000 visitors and a great fun-for- the-whole-family vibe, equally loved by sporty types, gourmands or those just looking to let off a little steam.

The ancient, indigenous forests of Knysna make the Pick n Pay Weekend Argus Rotary Knysna Cycle Tour a particularly scenic and popular race in South Africa

Currently in its 27th year, it is more than just a celebration of the famous Knysna oyster; it’s an opportunity for paddling, angling, soccer, night biking, bowls, rugby, adventure races and golf. The main attractions are the Pick n Pay Cape Times Knysna Forest Marathon and the two-day Pick n Pay Weekend Argus Rotary Knysna Cycle Tour through the beautiful local forests, which have become popular with amateurs and professionals alike. So even if you’re not a fan of molluscs, there’s still plenty to get your muscles a movin’!

Wacky Races

The whl.travel local connection for Swaziland, Darron Raw of Swazi Trails, also organises an adrenaline-fuelled event known as the Swazi Xtreme held yearly in August. Described as having a “a proud tradition of challenging competitors with race routes that incorporate awesome natural features, friendly rural people and an atmosphere of risk and reward,” the adventure race has become a big hit garnering plenty of media coverage.

Giving something back to the communities through which the competitors pass is a key concern and local accommodations, staff and facilities are used wherever possible. A successful sponsorship partnership with a major food company even provided three local primary schools with food for a year – definitely not something to be sniffed at!

And Finally, Something for the Masochists…

As the toughest foot race on earth, the Marathon des Sables has a fearsome reputation for making grown men weep. Taking place in Morocco’s scorching, wind-swept Sahara Desert – where midday temperatures reach 48 degrees Celsius – this six-day endurance race covers 243km, or roughly a marathon a day. Runners have to lug all of their kit except for water, which is strictly rationed, so you can see why a penchant for pain is a prerequisite.

Temperatures can soar to 48 degrees Celsius and sand storms are par for the course on the gruelling Marathon des Sables in Morocco's Sahara Desert (courtesy of Flickr/USACE Europe District)

It’s not all blood, sweat, tears and festering blisters, though. The stark desert scenery is absolutely breathtaking and the camaraderie amongst the participants makes it the experience of a lifetime. But if you fancy a little self-punishment you’ll have to get to the back of the line. Believe it or not, there’s currently a three-year waiting list!

This African Gospel Church - a structure like many in the townships - is in the Langa Township in the Flats outside Cape Town

So what are you to do? Are there reasonably priced accommodation options anywhere in South Africa? How can one find exciting and responsible travel options beyond the pomp of a month of games? And, as we’ve written about already, is there any way of ensuring that some of the money spent will be fairly distributed, so that the inflated profits benefit as wide a cross-section of people as possible, not just the already rich and powerful?

Opportunism and Exploitation

We’ve seen a growing number of articles decrying the avarice of accommodation owners in South Africa as they set special room rates to laughably outrageous levels. “Research this week on Hotels.com UK website showed that the four-star, centrally located Cape Town Lodge Hotel, which from May 28 to June 5 charges £68 per room per night, is raising its rate on June 11, when the tournament gets under way, to £395,” reported Travelmole in mid-December 2009. “Hotel rates always rise during big sporting events: during the Olympic Games in Athens (2004) and Sydney (2000) they were three times the usual level. But the increases in South Africa almost match those made during the Beijing Olympics, when hoteliers were accused of exploitation.”

The lion is one of the Big Five found in Kruger National Park, the country’s largest game reserve and a superb place for a safari (photo courtesy of South African Tourism)

“The World Cup has brought out the worst in some sectors of the tourism industry both in South Africa and abroad, but it seems that this is a phenomenon that follows every big event of this sort,” added Martin Hatchuel, the South African travel writer who publishes www.thistourismweek.co.za. “I have had quite a bit of contact with people in Australia who tell me that Sydney suffered a decline in tourism in the three years following its Olympics – and the reason most people seemed to have for avoiding the city as a destination was ‘greed.’ So South Africa is not alone.”

Given the price gouging and apparent absence of reasonable oversight, one real fear is that not only will little of any profits actually reach the local level, but that any backlash suffered as a result of unfair market practices will hurt locals the most.

Finding a Fair Room

One way of helping to make a small difference – and help redress some of the possible imbalances – is to book accommodation and tours with locally run, small-scale lodges and tour operators, especially those committed to bringing opportunity to the townships. This is not only in keeping with FIFA’s social development policy of providing support to community-based organisations, it also provides alternative lodging options in World Cup host cities where exploitative pricing is now evident.

In fact, continued Hatchuel, “It seems to me that the people who are being most sensible about this World Cup are those who own the smaller accommodation establishments and other small tourism businesses.”

To help the price-daunted World Cup fan, below is a list of off-the-beaten-track lodging options on offer through whl.travel, in some cases the only online booking service available for these properties. While other hotels are charging outlandish rates, these B&Bs promise not to bamboozle their customers. Their rates will be higher than usual, but still most definitely a bargain, especially considering the unbeatable cultural experience of life in a South African township (especially during the World Cup) and the assurance that the money spent is actually reaching the people.

Cape Town

• Kopanong
• Liziwe’s Guest House
• Majoro’s B&B
• Malebo’s Bed and Breakfast
• Ma Neo’s
• Ndibovayo Bed and Breakfast
• Radebe’s B&B
• Vicky’s Bed and Breakfast

Mossel Bay (on the Garden Route, midway between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth)

• Polani’s Xhosa Homestay
• Yonwaba Sesotho Homestay

Meeting the People

Whether or not alternative accommodation is key, meeting the people and experiencing the country should be. In a previous blog post, we’ve already proposed community or nature tours and activities in or near the World Cup host cities. What follows is a more targeted list to help zero in.

Traditional Xhosa dancers in South Africa perform for guests at a Mossel Bay township's first non-alcoholic shabeen and day-care centre

Cape Town
whl.travel offers access to a variety of community-based cultural and volunteer experiences, including:

• half-day, full-day and three-day township tours, and
• extended (28-day) volunteer adventures involving cheetahs, lions, monkeys, surfing and outreach to children.

Nelspruit
Nelspruit is quite close to Kruger National Park and the Panorama Route, as well as within several hour’s drive of the Mpumalanga Highlands.

All three are superb destinations with a broad offering of nature-oriented and outdoor activities, like river rafting, geckoiing, mountain biking, zip-line flying, rock abseiling, mountain boarding and following an aerial cable trail over a forest.

Animal enthusiasts will find satisfaction in visits to the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre for abandoned, injured and poisoned wildlife or to an elephant sanctuary.

Geckoiing is the use of a small raft steered using webbed gloves. It is one of the best ways to have fun with family and friends.

Port Elizabeth and the Garden Route
In Port Elizabeth, both a Shebeen Tour and a Real City Tour bring travellers to the heart of township life, while the Addo Tour spends a day at the famous Addo Elephant National Park.

Further west, along the Garden Route, a Meet the People Tour out of Mossel Bay is an absolute must, although a coastal cliff hike, game drive in Fynbos or horseback ride through a private game preserve are also a treat.

The Day After It’s Over

Not long after Sepp Blatter, FIFA president, declared “This World Cup belongs to Africa!” on the day of the World Cup 2010 draw, Nelson Mandela, appearing via video link, closed a short speech by saying that “The people of Africa have learned the lessons of patience and endurance in their long struggle for freedom. May the reward brought by the World Cup prove that the long wait for its arrival on African soil has been worth it.”

It’s time to wonder if the reward, so promising in principle, is still out of reach in practice because of misguided expectations about who is coming to the World Cup, how much they can afford and how widely they will travel after it’s all over.

“I think that the organisers of the World Cup and the tourism authorities in South Africa have missed – or failed to communicate – one important piece of intelligence: the demographics of the average soccer traveller,” said Hatchuel. “I have a suspicion that most of them will be males in the 24-32 year bracket, and if that’s the case, I expect they’ll be sticking to the host cities, and looking for the parties rather than travelling round the country.”

If that does turn out to be true, then it’s even more important that the mindful minority shows genuine interest in more than just sport and partying, both during the World Cup and after it’s over. South Africa can’t afford to suffer as Sydney did for its greed.

“This World Cup belongs to Africa!” declared Sepp Blatter, FIFA president, at the Cape Town Convention Centre on 5 December 2009, the long-awaited day of the World Cup 2010 draw. Needless to say, since then, Africa’s already considerable pride at hosting the world’s most popular sporting event grows by the day, in lock step with the excitement of soccer fanatics from all across the continent (and around the world) eagerly awaiting kickoff of the first game – South Africa versus Mexico in Johannesburg’s Soccer City Stadium at 4pm local time on 11 June 2010.

Supporters of Bafana Bafana, the South Africa national soccer team (photo courtesy of South African Tourism)

The success of the World Cup will however be measured by more than just the tenacity of the teams. Nearly 500,000 people are expected to visit South Africa from game 1 until the finals precisely one month later. Their presence comes as an important economic injection, especially in the tourism sector, as the hordes head out to experience the country.

So, as a primer for the independent traveller in South Africa during the games – the traveller passionate about soccer, but also about meeting and making a difference with the local communities hosting the games – here’s a quick overview of how between games you can connect with the people, just a small but important step in being a good guest.

On the World Cup Trail

Nine cities will be the stage for the 2010 World Cup: Bloemfontein, Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg, Nelspruit, Pretoria, Polokwane, Port Elizabeth and Rustenburg.

The spread of destinations covers a great deal of the country, facilitating discovery of the diversity of regions and people.

Johannesburg

The opening match, nine other first-round matches, two second-round matches, two quarter finals and the finals will all be held in Johannesburg’s two venues: Ellis Park and Soccer City stadiums. Despite its bad reputation, Jo’burg is the financial hub of South Africa and a city full of life and interesting sights.

The busy city centre of Johannesburg

In between games is a perfect opportunity to take them in, not the least of which are the Museum of Apartheid, Soweto or other townships, the Mai-Mai market and the botanic gardens. Perhaps the best way to get to them and understand their significance is on any of several emotion-packed Johannesburg day tours possible through Urban Adventures.

Jo’burg is also within easy reach of two other game venues: Loftus Versfeld in Pretoria and Royal Bafokeng Stadium in Rustenburg, both sites of five first-round and one second-round matches.

Cape Town

Cape Town’s Cape Town Stadium will welcome 70,000 spectators to each of five first-round, one second-round, one quarter-final and one semi-final matches. More commonly known as the ‘Mother City’, Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most storied cities. Naming Cape Town’s top five attractions – Table Mountain, the V&A Waterfront, Robben Island, the Winelands and Cape Point – conveys some of its richness but only just scratches the surface, for there is a great deal more to see and do.

Wine tasting and cellar tours are favourite pastimes in the Cape Winelands. These Franschhoek vineyards are a 1.5-hour drive from downtown Cape Town.

As in Jo’burg, Cape Town tours are highly recommended, not only because they can help you get to places a little difficult to reach but because the accompanying guides put you in the right frame of mind to understand the important but sometimes intangible historical contexts, especially on Robben Island, where many political prisoners were incarcerated, including Nelson Mandela for over 20 years; the Cape Winelands, a perfect retreat for wine lovers; and any of several township and volunteer experiences that show you a different side of Cape life.

Cape Town is a good launch point for travel along South Africa’s famous Garden Route, an unspoiled and often inaccessible coastal corridor rich with wetlands, dunes, rivers, ancient forests, beaches, lakes, mountains and indigenous flora and fauna. Beyond its eastern reaches lies the seaside city of Port Elizabeth, whose Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium will be the site of five first-round and one second-round matches, as well as a quarter-final game and the third-place playoff.

Nelspruit

The city of Nelspruit is the smallest of the host locations, a community of approximately 200,000 people who will welcome four first-round matches to their Mbombela Stadium.

Giraffes are commonly sighted in Kruger National Park, also home to the Big 5, Little 5 and the Birding Big 6

Nelspruit brings two of South Africa’s most tantalising natural wonders into easy reach: Kruger National Park, which is the country’s largest game reserve and a superb place for a safari; and the dramatic Panorama Route, just a short drive from Nelspruit. Both destinations offer an array of adrenalin-pumping outdoor activities, most of which are conducted in a responsible and sustainable manner involving both briefings about local flora and fauna and proactive measures to minimise impact on the environment.

Nelspruit could also be a point of departure to reach Polokwane, 300 kilometres to its northwest, where the Peter Mokaba Stadium will see four first-round matches. To reach Polokwane from Nelspuit, one could detour west across the nature-rich rolling hills of the Mpumalanga Highlands, where outdoor enthusiasts will find plenty of activities from which to choose.

Bloemfontein and Durban

Both Bloemfontein and Durban will host five first-round matches and one second-round match each in their Free State Stadium and Moses Mabhida Stadium, respectively. One semi-final game will also be played in Durban.

Bloemfontein, South Africa’s judicial capital, is popularly referred to as the ‘City of Roses’ due in part to its floral displays and annual Bloem Show (late April/early may), the largest agricultural and entertainment show in the country.

Coastal and cosmopolitan, Durban is the place to go for sun, sea and sand. Most city attraction are found along its Golden Mile of beach, including uShaka Marine World (one of the world’s largest aquariums) and Wilson’s Wharf (the trendy shopping and dining distrinct) on the Victoria Embankment, where there’s no shortage of restaurants and nightclubs.

In a gateway community in Southern Limpopo, South Africa, a woman weaves baskets. Travellers making local connections like this are what the Shared Growth Challenge Fund hopes to highlight.

But some people are already (wisely) asking what will happen when the trophies have been celebrated, the afterglow faded and media attention lifted. Well, the South African Tourist Board estimates that 300,000 more visitors than usual over the next five years will continue to respond to the hype of the first African country ever to host the world’s biggest sporting event.

While that’s very encouraging, a more long-term view of tourism development in South Africa suggests that it’s not far-sighted enough.

Local Partners to the Rescue

Thankfully, three local tour operators – Raw Africa, Induna Adventures and Roc ‘n Rope – have joined forces with WHL Consulting and the whl.travel Africa team to ensure that small accommodation providers in Mpumalanga, Southern Limpopo and KwaZulu-Natal are marketed well beyond 2010 both to international travellers and to South Africans eager to explore their own country.

The project is partly funded by the Shared Growth Challenge Fund, a Business Trust project that provides one-off grants to private companies to support ‘pro-poor’ innovation and investment. The 4.5 million rand (approximately US$600,000) project will take 18 months to give new online visibility to at least 150 small accommodation providers. The sustainable long-term effect of this enhanced exposure – including websites with room-booking functionality – is expected to be considerable, particularly in communities routinely excluded from the global marketplace, especially the e-marketplace.

Zachary Rozga, CEO of WHL Consulting, is extremely excited about this project, with ambitious visions far beyond the established scope of the work. The core objective, he believes, is “to get bums in the beds of small and medium tourism accommodation venues by setting up unique websites for accommodation providers, as well as offering affordable package holidays that combine accommodation and fun activities for visitors. Our goal in this project is to reach between 300-600 small and medium enterprises. If all things go well in the following year, we hope to expand that to 1,000 and move into other provinces.”

The project aims to support small and medium-size hotels and lodges (like the one pictured above) in Mpumalanga, Southern Limpopo and KwaZulu-Natal

Bums in Beds

Underpinning the Shared Growth Challenge Fund project is a new concept called the Tourism Development Bank that “uses room nights as currency” instead of money, said Rozga.

Local accommodation providers pay a small registration fee of 350 rand (approximately US$50) and then set aside 18 room nights. In return, the providers receive specialised WHL Consulting market-readiness assessment services. Those deemed ready are then eligible to receive:

• a selection of professionally taken photos of their property, including photos for use in ‘immersive tours’ whereby travellers take an online ‘virtual’ tour of a venue;
• a professionally drafted travel write-up highlighting the venue’s appeal to experiential and mindful travellers;
• a unique e-commerce website linked to the whl.travel global network;
• access to a local whl.travel tourism market training seminar.

The 18 room nights “banked” by WHL Consulting will in turn be incorporated into affordable package holidays made available exclusively through whl.travel and combining accommodation with local-economy boosting tours and activities, such as river rafting, abseiling, horse-riding and hiking.

In keeping WHL Consulting, whl.travel and all three local tour operator commitments to responsible travel, the whl.travel package holidays will aim to leverage interest in and support for the two World Heritage sites located in KwaZulu-Natal – iSimangaliso Wetland Park (once called and still better known as the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park) and Drakensburg – as well as the wildlife-rich and heavily protected Kruger National Park and Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve.

The project will place great importance on supporting local resources, with a special emphasis on World Heritage Sites and the game parks of Kruger National Park and Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve

Pushing a Winning Solution

The benefits to all partners make this project appealing on many levels, in particular for the three local tour operators, all whl.travel partners.

For Danny Pinkas (Roc ‘n Rope), the project is “a win-win situation for everyone involved, from tour operators and accommodation establishments to travellers as well as local communities, who will benefit from spinoffs.”

Darron Raw (Raw Africa), of www.kzn.travel (for KwaZulu-Natal) and www.swazi.travel, agrees: “Up until now a large number of SME (small and medium enterprise) accommodation and activity providers have not been able to participate effectively on the Internet, and this project will integrate them in a professional online e-marketing and booking service.”

Says Jaco Lubbe (Induna Adventures), who oversees www.panorama-tours.travel and www.krugersafaris.travel, “The outcome of this initiative will help local accommodation establishments to provide a more professional and technologically ‘with it’ service to the world. It will also create a platform and give the accommodation establishments the necessary tools to be more visible to specific target markets. I am convinced that this project will help make our piece of the earth more sustainable for generations to come.”

Even for WHL Consulting, this project is an opportunity “to invest heavily in new technology platforms that allow evolution of the Market Access Program from a purely donor-funded exercise to a more commercial enterprise,” said Rozga. “In so doing the intention is to bring the overall cost of the exercise down significantly so that the activities of the program, which are critical in many emerging destinations, can be more widely implemented.”

Of course, for whl.travel, the on-the-ground support of so many local accommodation providers significantly expands the product base offered to independent consumers headed off the beaten path and yearning to book with local businesses, no matter how small, and especially those making socially responsible and sustainable decisions about their destinations.